Transcribed from the 1834 Whittaker & Co. edition by David Price.
[Picture: The Menai Bridge]
THE
CAMBRIAN TOURIST,
OR,
POST-CHAISE COMPANION
THROUGH
WALES;
CONTAINING CURSORY SKETCHES OF THE
WELSH TERRITORIES,
AND
A DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GAMES
OF THE NATIVES.
* * * * *
_EIGHTH EDITION_.
* * * * *
THE WHOLE CORRECTED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED.
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR WHITTAKER & CO.
AVE MARIA LANE.
* * * * *
1834.
ACCOUNT OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
_The force of the Letters—List of Primitive Words—Character of the
Language and of the Poetry_.
It is supposed that there were anciently, in the Welsh or British
Language, {0} no less than thirty-six letters, sixteen of which were
radicals, that expressed the primary sounds; and the rest, modulations or
dependents on them. For each of these, it is probable that there was
formerly a simple appropriate character; but, since the invention of
printing, and the introduction of Roman letters, it has been necessary,
for want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt two,
and in one instance even three, of those letters, to express one sound or
character, by which much of the simplicity and beauty of the proper
alphabet has been lost.
The present printed books contain only twenty-seven characters: A, B, C,
Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, Ng, H, I, L, Ll, M, N, O, P, Ph, R, S, T, Th, U,
W, and Y; having neither J, K, X, nor Z. C answers the purpose of K,
when joined with W or Q; and when placed with S, of X. It is said that Z
is used in the Armorican language, which is a dialect of this; but the
Welsh disown it.
No letter has any variation of sound, except the accented vowels, â, ê,
î, ô, û, ŵ, ŷ, which are lengthened, or otherwise, according to the power
of the accent, and all are pronounced, as there are no mutes.
A has the same sound as the English open _a_ in the word _bard_.
C is always hard as _k_.
Ch, which is accounted but as one consonant, is a guttural, as _Chi_ in
Greek, or _ch_, _Cheth_, in Hebrew.
Dd is an aspirated _d_, and has the sound of _th_ in the words _this_,
_that_. _Dda_, good, is pronounced _Tha_.
F has the sound of an English _v_.
I is sounded as in the Italian, or like our _ee_ in _been_; thus _cîl_, a
retreat, is pronounced _keel_.
Ll is an aspirated _l_, and has much the sound of _thl_. _Llangollen_ is
pronounced _Thlangothlen_.
R, as in the Greek language, is always aspirated at the beginning of a
word.
U sounds like the _i_ in _limb_, _him_, &c.
W is a vowel, and has the power of _oo_ in _soon_.
Y is in some words pronounced like _i_ in _third_; in others like _o_ in
_honey_: and again, in others as the _u_ in _mud_, _must_, &c.
V is sometimes used instead of _f_. B and P, C and G, and U and Y, are
used promiscuously, as were formerly V and M.
* * * * *
The following is a list of primitive words, which, as they very commonly
occur in the names of places, &c. the tourist may find them of use.
_Aber_, a confluence; the fall of one river into another or into the sea,
as _Aberdovey_, the conflux of the Dovey.
_Avon_, what flows; and from thence a stream or river.
_Allt_, a cliff; the steep of a hill.
_Ar_, upon; bordering or abutting upon.
_Bach_, and _Bychan_, little: these are of the masculine gender, and
_Vychan_ and _Vechan_ are feminine.
_Bôd_, a dwelling, residence, or station.
_Bryn_, a hill.
_Bwlch_, a gap or pass between rocks.
_Cader_, a keep, fortress, or strong hold.
_Caer_, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed with stones and
mortar.
_Castell_, a castle.
_Coed_, a wood.
_Carnedd_, a heap of stones.
_Cefen_, a ridge; or high ground.
_Clawdd_, a ditch, dike, or trench; and sometimes a wall or fence.
_Clogwyn_, a precipice.
_Craig_, a rock: from this the English word _Crag_ is derived.
_Cwm_, a great hollow or glen; sometimes a valley.
_Dinas_, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in general with a
rampart of loose stones and earth without any cement.
_Dôl_, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river.
_Drws_, a door, pass, or opening.
_Dû_, black.
_Dyffryn_, a wide cultivated valley.
_Ffynnon_, a spring, well, or source.
_Garth_, a mountain that bends round, or that incloses.
_Glan_, a bank or shore.
_Glyn_, a deep vale, through which a river runs:—from hence was derived
our word _Glen_.
_Gwern_, a watery meadow.
_Gwydd_, a wood; woody or wild.
_Gwyn_, white.
_Goch_, or _Coch_, red.
_Llan_, a smooth plot; a place of meeting; the church, place, or village;
and figuratively the church.
_Llech_, a flat stone, or crag; a smooth cliff.
_Llwyn_, a grove or copse.
_Llyn_, a pool, pond, or mere.
_Maen_, a stone.
_Maes_, an open field.
_Mawr_, great:—_Vach_, little.
_Moel_, fair; bald; a smooth mountain.
_Morfa_, a marsh.
_Mynydd_, a mountain.
_Pant_, a narrow hollow, or ravine.
_Pen_, a head, top, or end.
_Plâs_, a hall, or mansion.
_Pont_, a bridge.
_Porth_, a port.
_Rhiw_, an ascent.
_Rhôs_, a moist plain, or meadow.
_Rhyd_, a ford.
_Sarn_, a causeway.
_Tal_, the front, head, or end.
_Traeth_, a sand on the sea-shore.
_Tref_, a township.
_Ty_, a house.
_Ynys_, an island.
The Welsh language is possessed of numerous beauties. Its copiousness is
very great; and it has no rival in the variety of its synonymous forms of
expression, principally arising from the rich combinations of its verbs;
for every simple verb has about twenty modifications, by means of
qualifying prefixes; and in every form it may be conjugated, either by
inflexions, like the Latin, or by the auxiliaries, as in English. It
rivals the Greek, in its aptitude to form the most beautiful derivatives,
as well as in the elegance, facility, and expressiveness of an infinite
variety of compounds. The author of letters from Snowdon has justly
remarked, that it has the softness and harmony of the Italian, with the
majesty and expression of the Greek. Of these I will give two singular
and striking instances, one of which is an _Englyn_, or epigram on the
silk-worm; composed entirely of vowels.
O’i wiw y ŵi weu ê â, a’i weuau
O’i ŵyau y weua;
E’ weua ei ŵe aia’,
A’i weuau yw ieuau iâ.
“I perish by my art; dig mine own grave:
I spin my thread of life; my death I weave.”
The other a distich on thunder, the grandeur of which is scarcely to be
surpassed in any language.
Tân a dŵr yn ymwriaw,
Yw’r taranau dreigiau draw.
“The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire,
Its water warring with aërial fire.”
The metre of the Welsh poetry is very artificial and alliterative,
possessing such peculiar ingenuity in the selection and arrangement of
words, as to produce a rhythmical concatenation of sounds in every verse.
The old British language abounded with consonants, and was formed of
monosyllables, which are incompatible with quantity; and the bards could
reduce it to concord by no other means than by placing at such intervals
its harsher consonants, so intermixing them with vowels, and so adapting,
repeating, and dividing the several sounds, as to produce an agreeable
effect from their structure. Hence the laws of poetical composition in
this language are so strict and rigorous, that were it not for a
particular aptitude that it has for that kind of alliterative melody,
which is as essential as harmony in music, and which constitutes the
great beauty of its poetry, the genius of the bard must have been greatly
cramped. To the ears of the natives, the Welsh metre is extremely
pleasing, and does not subject the bard to more restraint than the
different sorts of feet occasioned to the Greek and Roman poets. From
the reign of Llywelyn to that of Elizabeth, the laws of alliteration were
prescribed, and observed with such scrupulous exactness, that a line not
perfectly alliterative was condemned as much by the Welsh grammarians, as
a false quantity was by the Greeks and Romans.
[Picture: Map of South Wales]
THE
CAMBRIAN TOURIST.
These are the haunts of Meditation, these
The scenes where ancient bards th’ inspiring breath
Ecstatic felt.
THOMSON.
As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to either North
or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now established from all
parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on Oxford. And should the
Tourist’s undertaking be commenced early in the season, and his time to
enjoy it be ample, he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of
learning and nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of
building which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it
possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and
colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford Guides,
that to attempt to do it in this work would be superfluous, if not
ridiculous: still I may be excused for pointing out to those whose period
of stay may be limited, the objects more particularly worthy their
attention. The three churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All
Saints, and St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the church used by
the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful modern
structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the East is very ancient;
it was formerly the University Church, and is now, during Lent, attended
by the members of it for afternoon service.
The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in Europe, as well
as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, from eight to two
o’clock, and from three to five; in the winter only till three in the
afternoon. The Arundel marbles are placed in a large room on the north
side of the Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts,
called the Comitia and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s annual commemoration, in
June or July, of the benefactors to the University, when the prizes
adjudged to particular performances are publicly recited, is a superb
edifice, and was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at the expense of
Archbishop Sheldon: it cost 16,000_l._; its roof has been greatly
admired. Near this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural
curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the Theatre, the
Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the Schools stands in a fine area
the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a noble building with a handsome dome.
St. Mary Magdalen College at the east end of the city, near the river
Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it only to see the
picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; supposed to be painted by
Guido. Such is the awful solemnity of the place, and the impressive
beauty of this painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that
representing the last judgment, that none can be better calculated to
give a favourable bias to the mind of youth; for should religion waver in
the mind, the sweet benignity of Him who died to save mankind
Shall on the heart impress such grateful love,
That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move.
The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive state, is
the most venerable of the University; the interior is ornamented with
curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very fully given in the Oxford
Guide, from an ancient manuscript in the College.
Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, if the
time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit them, I shall
proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular attention. This
College consists of four courts: 1. The great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater
square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. The Chaplain’s court; and some other
buildings. The noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great
gate in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir
Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great bell,
called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: on the sound of
this bell, the scholars of the University are to retire to their
respective Colleges.
The great quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The Hall takes up
more than half the south side: we ascend to it by a spacious and stately
staircase of stone, the roof of which, supported by a single pillar, is
beautiful. The staircase, lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been
altered under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most
magnificent room of the kind in Oxford. There are near 300 compartments
in the cornice, which are embellished with as many coats of arms, carved
and blazoned in their proper colours. At the upper end of the hall the
beautiful gothic window merits attention.—For the long list of portraits
of eminent persons that adorn the walls, _vide_ Oxford Guide.
Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly belonged
to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the choir, which is of
beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to Cardinal Wolsey.
The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, from a
design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the north corner of the
west end is curiously painted, representing St. Peter delivered out of
prison by the angel. It was executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year.
The fine ring of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before
described, were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choral service is performed
every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when it is at
eight in the morning.
Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. Aldrich. On
the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, built in the Corinthian
order. In the lower apartments to the right and left are deposited the
celebrated collection of pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise.
Amongst these is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci,
representing his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a vision
supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s head, by Rubens. Two
Nativities, by Titian. A Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt,
by Guido Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by Dominichino. Jesus and
Saint John embracing, by Raphael, &c. &c.
For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I must again
recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as well as for
information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury,
17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of the Right Honourable Lord
Dillon, about four miles and a half from Heythrop; and Nuneham Courtney,
the seat of the late Earl Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to
the admirers of fine paintings that the country affords.
But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would fain be led to
deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek the pinnacle of fame,
to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his steps; and let the gentle
Rosamond’s hard fate midst Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for
love and war should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have
been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in arms shall
shine in the historic page, still shall a sovereign’s and a nation’s
gratitude outvie the hero’s deeds.
Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of Marlborough, is
situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the west of Woodstock, from
which town you enter the Park by a spacious portal of the Corinthian
order. The noble view of the house of Blenheim, the extent of the park,
the lake, valley, and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly
impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of building, the
interior finish and display of the arts, increase rather than diminish
the first impression. The circumference of the park is about eleven
miles: the gardens are tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose
beauties are here happily blended with art.
The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three quarters,
by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and a quarter;
Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and three quarters.
CHELTENHAM.
’Twas from hence with a friend, an equal admirer of Nature’s landscapes,
and attached to pedestrian independence, that a tourist resolved to visit
the wild and impressive scenery of the Cambrian mountains. The outlines
of their route being arranged, they sallied forth in the month of July
from this place so much resorted to, and celebrated for its mineral
waters. Since it has become a place of fashion, the lodging-houses have
been considerably improved, and rendered comfortable for the company, who
make this place their residence. The season usually commences about May,
and frequently continues till the beginning of November. The majority of
the company who frequent Cheltenham resort here not so much for the
purpose of water-drinking, as to enjoy the delightful walks and rides,
and partake of the sociability of the neighbourhood.
The Walk at the Pump-room, well planned, and kept in excellent order, is
planted on each side with limes; at the end is a small square, where the
pump is situate, with a room on the left for the accommodation of the
company to promenade, measuring sixty-six feet by twenty-three: on the
opposite side a reading-room, with a billiard-table over: and a house,
the residence of the attendant at the Spa: beyond that is a similar walk
which leads to another serpentine walk; from the end of this the spire of
Cheltenham church forms a beautiful object. Near these walks stands, on
an eminence, the seat of the Earl of Fauconberg; which was the royal
residence during their Majesties’ stay from July 12 to August 16, 1788.
In respect to the Rides, Cleave Hill, Dowdeswell, &c. Tewkesbury and
Glocester are most admired.
Speaking of the history of the place, we find Cheltenham was a town in
the reign of King William the Conqueror; Edward likewise is supposed to
have marched through it, before he encamped his army on the field of
Tewkesbury; previous to the battle of the houses of York and Lancaster.
Three days may be passed very pleasantly at this place, in viewing the
various improvements that have been made in the last twenty-five years,
tending both to increase the health and pleasure of its numerous and
respectable visitors: for these improvements the town is greatly indebted
to the exertions of Messrs. Moreau, King, and Fotheringham, the masters
of the ceremonies. Duty with such men scarcely required the additional
stimulus of interest to render it efficacious; but with so powerful an
auxiliary it was irresistible: thousands have been expended after
thousands; public spirit was roused, and competition excited. The
public, as well as Messrs. Thompson, Skillicorne, Capstack, Smith,
Barrett, Watson and Co., and all others who have spiritedly adventured
their property, will, I hope, derive mutual advantage, if not checked by
the high charges of some of the principal inns, and the enormous
establishments of the overbearing, monopolizing barrack lodging-houses,
apparently better calculated for workhouses or houses of correction, than
places of residence for valetudinarians.
The wells and baths are numerous, and calculated, under proper medical
superintendence, for all chronic disorders and constitutions; but they
are not to be trifled with: professional advice, for their proper use, is
absolutely necessary.
Of the efficacy of the water, to which this town is indebted for its
present celebrity, I refer my readers to a Treatise published by Dr.
Fothergill, of Bath.
The church is a respectable old building, by far too crowded and
encumbered with galleries, and what are intended as accommodations for a
large congregation, to allow all parties to participate in and profit by
the discourses there delivered.
The rooms and public receptacles for company, it should be the business
of some party to see closed, at all events on Sunday, and particularly on
Sunday morning, against those errant gamblers, that will eventually be
the bane of Cheltenham.
Libraries and Banks are numerous, as are conveyances to London through
Oxford, and to Bristol through Gloucester: here likewise are conveyances
to Hereford, Worcester, Birmingham, &c., and by that route to North
Wales; but this is not to be depended upon: but to South Wales, through
Gloucester and Hereford, the conveyance by coach and waggon for
passengers or baggage is ready and convenient.
For further particulars relative to this splendid modern establishment,
for such Cheltenham certainly may with propriety be designated, I must
refer the reader to the Cheltenham Guide; the information derived from
which will amply repay him for its trifling cost. From hence to
Gloucester, eight miles one furlong, the road is excellent; and if time
allows, Tewkesbury is worthy of a visit, being only nine miles from
Cheltenham, and ten miles and a half from Gloucester.
Its ancient abbey is a venerable building, founded in 715, by two
brothers, Odo and Dodo, who endowed it with the manor of Stanway in
Gloucestershire, &c. &c. sufficient to maintain a prior and four monks of
the order of Benedictines: this priory was afterwards, about the year
980, subjected to the priory of Cranbourne, in Dorsetshire, but being
subsequently rebuilt in 1102, by Robert Fitz-Hamon, and its endowments
greatly enlarged, Girald, the Abbot of Cranbourne, on account of the
fruitfulness of the soil, and superiority of its situation, removed his
establishment to it, leaving only a prior and two monks at Cranbourne.
From this period it appears to have risen in consequence as a town.
The ashes of many noble characters are here deposited; and amongst the
rest, amidst the mingled heap of slain and murdered at and after the
battle of Tewkesbury, those of the accomplished and lamented Edward,
Prince of Wales, son of King Henry the Sixth; Edmund, Duke of Somerset;
his brother John de Somerset, the Earl of Devonshire; Lord Wenlock,
Master of the Horse to the Prince, with numerous others. Here likewise
rest in peace, where all animosities are forgotten, the remains of
_false_, _fleeting_, _perjured Clarence_; as also those of Isabel his
wife, who was buried with great pomp and solemnity.
Further particulars of this ancient town the reader will obtain by
reference to a small but interesting historical work, on the Antiquities
of Tewkesbury, by W. Dyde of that place; who, after giving a very full
and explicit account of the contest betwixt the houses of York and
Lancaster, concludes by saying, “The local memorials of this very
decisive battle are but few. The principal scenes of the action are the
meadow, which has received the appellation of Bloody Meadow, and the
Vineyard. The former lies between two gently descending banks, about
half a mile south-west of the town, and was the spot where the slaughter
was the greatest. The latter was the place where Queen Margaret lay, and
where some intrenchments are still to be traced.”
Stebbing says, “to the monastery and convent of Tewkesbury, King Henry
the Seventh granted the parochial church of Towton to pray for the soul
of Edmund, Duke of Somerset, his brother John, and others, who lost their
lives in the quarrel of the house of Lancaster.”
The entrance to Tewkesbury from Worcester, or Hereford and Malvern, after
a heavy fall of rain, presents to the eye the largest moveable body of
inland water I have witnessed in England; the junction of the Severn, and
the Warwickshire Avon, each overflowing their banks, rushing down two
beautiful vales to join their currents opposite the town, and augmenting
their volume by _the_ two tributary streams of the Carron and the
Swilgate, impress you with the idea of the vicinity of the sea, and the
power of the tide, to collect so large a body of that fluid element in
such overpowering currents. The drive or ride from Tewkesbury to Upton,
and from thence to Malvern hills, is beautiful; indeed, not one inch of
this delightful country should be missed or slighted, by travelling over
it in the dark or in bad weather: the view from Malvern hills over
Worcester, and the rich vale through which the Severn’s current rolls, is
perhaps as fine a one as the eye of the painter could wish to be indulged
with. Winding round the Malvern hills by a good turnpike road, you gain
the Herefordshire view, with the mountains of Wales in the back ground,
having Ross on the left, and Bromyard, Leominster, and Salop on the
right; descending the hill, you soon reach Ledbury, scarcely remarkable
for any thing but the antiquity of its houses, and the fine quality of
the cider and perry made in its vicinity. Malvern is about an equal
distance from Ledbury and Upton, and those places are nearly equi-distant
from
GLOUCESTER.
The pin manufactory was established here by John Tisley, in the year
1626, and the business is now become so extensive that the returns from
London alone are estimated at near twenty thousand pounds per annum.
Before the introduction of pins into England, anno 1548, skewers of
brass, silver, and gold, and likewise thorns curiously scraped, called by
the Welch women pindraen, were used. Though the pins themselves are
apparently simple, yet their manufacture is not a little curious and
complex. The wire in its most rough state is brought from a wire company
in the neighbourhood of Bristol: till the year 1563 English iron wire was
drawn out by manual strength. The first operation attending this curious
process is the fixing the circular roll of wire to the circumference of a
wheel, which in its rotation throwing the wire against a board, with
great violence, takes off the black external coat: vitriol is next
applied to bring the brass to its common colour. The brass wire being
too thick for the purpose of being cut into pins, is reduced to any
dimension the workman pleases, by forcibly drawing it through an orifice
in a steel plate, of a similar diameter. The wire being thus reduced to
its proper dimensions, is next straightened: it is then cut into portions
of six inches in length, and afterwards to the size of the pin, and each
piece respectively sharpened on a grinding-stone, turned by a wheel. We
now come to a distinct branch of the manufactory; the forming the heads,
or, as the workmen term it, head spinning: this is accomplished by means
of a spinning-wheel, which, with astonishing rapidity, winds the wire
round a small rod: this, when drawn out, leaves a hollow tube between the
circumvolutions: every two circumvolutions, or turns, being cut with
shears, form one head. The heads thus formed are distributed to
children, who, with great dexterity, by the assistance of an anvil, or
hammer, worked by the foot, fix the point and the head together. The
pins, thus formed, are boiled in a copper, containing a solution of
block-tin pulverized, and the lees of port; and by this last process it
changes its yellow brassy colour, and assumes the appearance of silver or
tin. The labourers are all paid according to the weight of their work.
Near Gloucester, at the small island of Alney, formed by the river Severn
dividing itself into two branches, historians relate that Canute and
Edmund, after many bloody engagements in Essex, determined to prevent a
farther effusion of blood by a single combat. Neither, however, as the
story relates, obtaining a victory, peace was concluded, and the kingdom
divided between them. We paid, however, little regard to the supposed
place of this contest, as it was not for us puisne antiquarians to
discuss points on which the greatest historians had so materially
differed.
The roads round Gloucester have been greatly improved of late years, more
particularly the one to Ross and Hereford, which was hilly, rocky, and
generally dangerous: their texture and surface are now totally changed,
and, winding the hills, the gradual ascent removes both danger and
difficulty; the expense must have been enormous, and the traveller pays
proportionably in turnpike tolls; they are, generally speaking, round
Gloucester and Hereford, the highest in England. Nothing can surpass the
excellence of the road from Gloucester to Bristol, to which conveyances
are constantly going; and to such parties as have not visited that eager
bustling mart of trade, two or three days may be afforded with a
certainty of meeting with the most ample return for the trouble and
expense bestowed. The Church of St. Mary Redcliff, which is both ancient
and beautiful; the Abbey Church or cathedral: the docks; the charities,
and particularly that for teaching the blind to work; the hot wells at
Clifton; St. Vincent’s rocks, and the diminished vessels gliding on the
Avon; the beautiful views, mansions, villas, and pleasure grounds in
every direction in its vicinity, evincing at once the taste and opulence
of its merchants and citizens, but particularly those going to and
returning from King’s Weston, the view of Lord de Clifford’s mansion, and
the varied prospects it commands, as well as those from the park and
plantations, which are open to the public, constantly varying the scenery
on the Avon, Kingroad, and the distant Cambrian Alps, afforded pleasure
so exquisite to my romantic fancy, that for ten times the labour and
expense bestowed, I would not have debarred myself of them. Here most
happily are blended commercial riches and the life of trade with all that
nature’s bounty can bestow to please the fancy or delight the sight.
The antiquity of Bristol is recorded by Gildas, who has set it down as
one of the principal fortified cities in Britain, when the Romans
abandoned the island in the year 430. But little mention is made of it
again in history till the year 1063, when Harold, the son of Earl Godwin,
embarked from Bristol with an army to wreak his vengeance on Griffith,
King of Wales, who had committed divers aggressions. After sailing along
the coast and landing his men at various points, he reduced the country
to yield obedience to King Edward, and having compelled the Welsh to cut
off the head of their king and give him hostages for their fidelity, he
returned again to England.
The Castle of Bristol was formerly of great extent and strength, and is
repeatedly mentioned by historians for the gallant defences it has made,
and the noble prisoners it has held in safe custody; but it was not till
the time of Charles the First that it belonged to the city, when being
found to be a harbour and receptacle for rogues and vagabonds, it was
first added to the jurisdiction of the county of the city of Bristol, and
afterwards sold to the mayor and burgesses for 959_l._, to be held under
the manor of East Greenwich in Kent, at the yearly fee-farm rent of
40_l._
Both Henry the Second and Henry the Third, during their minorities, were
placed at Bristol as a place of security, at which they might receive
their education. It was here, in the year 1211, that the following
infamous act of tyrannic cruelty was exercised by King John. That
monarch having laid a heavy tax upon all the Jews throughout his
dominions, one of that race, named Abraham, having refused to pay the
tax, was fined in the sum of ten thousand marks; this the obstinate Jew
likewise refused to pay, which so much exasperated the King, that he
commanded one of his teeth to be drawn every day till the sum was paid;
the unfortunate Jew had seven of them taken out of his head, and then
submitted to the payment, rather than lose his last tooth, he having but
one left.
Bristol sends two members to Parliament; the first regular summons by
writ was issued by King Edward the First, directing that two proper
persons should be sent as its representatives to the Parliament at
Shrewsbury.
“King Henry the Seventh visited Bristol in 1490, and held his court in
St. Augustine’s Back, when the citizens, willing to shew the King all the
respect they could during his residence, arrayed themselves in their best
clothes; the King thinking some of their wives rather too well dressed
for their station, ordered that every citizen who was worth 20_l._ in
goods, should pay twenty shillings, for that their wives went so
sumptuously apparelled.”
The present Cathedral was the collegiate church of the monastery of St.
Augustine, originally founded by King Henry the Second, and Robert
Fitzharding, father of Maurice, the first of the Berkeley family. At the
suppression of the monasteries by king Henry the Eighth, after that of
St. Augustine had been destroyed, with the exception of the gate, and the
west end of the collegiate church had begun to share the same fate, the
King changed his mind, and resolved upon erecting it into a bishopric,
directing the church to be repaired, and thenceforth termed the cathedral
church of the holy and undivided Trinity, appointing Paul Bush, rector of
Winterborn, to be the first Bishop, appropriating the revenue of the
suppressed monastery, amounting to 765_l._ 15_s._ 3_d._ per annum, partly
to the bishop and partly to the chapter; consisting of a Dean and six
Prebendaries. He likewise took the county of Dorset from the see of
Salisbury, transferring it to that of Bristol.
The interior of the Cathedral, though not to be named with those of
Gloucester and Worcester, is still worthy of attention; particularly its
vaulted roof, those of the side aisles, and an emblematic picture of the
Holy Trinity, by Vansomers, over the altar. The windows of the side
aisles, which are of enamelled glass, are said to have been the gift of
Nell Gwynn.
On the south-west of the cathedral are the cloisters; and at the
south-east corner of the cloisters is the bishop’s palace, which was in
great part rebuilt in 1744, when the following extraordinary circumstance
happened. “A parcel of plate, supposed to have been hidden during the
time of the civil wars, fell through the floor in the corner of one of
the rooms; this accident occasioned the floor to be taken up, when, to
the surprise of those persons present, a dungeon underneath was
discovered, in which were found many human bones, and instruments of iron
for torture; at the same time was laid open a private passage to this
dungeon, which passage was part of the original edifice; it was an arched
way only large enough for one person to pass, and was made within the
wall; one end led to the dungeon, and the other end to an apartment of
the house, which by appearance had been made use of for a court of
judgment. Both the entrances of this mural passage were walled up, and
so concealed, that no one could suspect the wall to be hollow.”
St. Mary Redcliff Church, which is supposed to be one of the most
beautiful gothic structures for a parish church in England, next merits
attention. The present edifice was erected by William Canning, an
eminent merchant of Bristol, about the year 1456; the foundation having
been commenced by his grandfather of the same name, on the site of the
former church, built by Simon de Burton, in the year 1294. Canning
having been rendered unhappy by the death of his wife, and being pressed
by the King to a second marriage, he took holy orders to avoid an act so
repugnant to his feelings: he was afterwards Dean of Westbury, to which
he was likewise a great benefactor. He died in 1474, and was buried in
the south end of the aisle of this church, in which are two monuments
erected to his memory; in the one he is represented in his magisterial
robes (he having been five times Mayor of Bristol), with his lady by his
side, with a long inscription on two tables. In the other monument he is
habited as a priest.
The roof, which is of stone, displaying many curious devices, with much
good workmanship, and the lofty pillars which support it, are beautiful;
the interior, which consists of a middle and two side aisles, has a light
and highly pleasing effect, and is generally much admired. The altar is
very elegant and richly decorated, and over it are three capital
paintings by Hogarth. The organ, which is of great size and compass,
contains upwards of one thousand speaking pipes, and for richness of tone
is scarcely to be equalled. It was in a room over the north porch
entrance, in an old chest, that Chatterton, then a youth of seventeen,
gave out that he found the poetical manuscripts, ascribed to Rowley and
others, and said to have been written in the fifteenth century.
Chatterton’s father was sexton of St. Mary’s Redcliff and master of a
charity school in Pile-street, in which school, under a Mr. Love, who
succeeded his father, and at the Colston Blue-coat school, he received
his education.
The Exchange in Corn-street is a noble building of free-stone highly
finished; it cost upwards of 50,000_l._ The principal front is 110 feet;
it is of the Corinthian order, upon a rustic basement. Next to the
Exchange stands the Post-office, and higher up, on the opposite side of
the street, the Council-house, where the mayor or some other magistrate
sits daily to administer justice, from twelve till two o’clock.
The charities of this city are numerous and extensive; the Infirmary is a
noble building, situate in Earl-street, St. James’s; it is conducted on
the most liberal plan.
The port of Bristol has of late years been greatly enlarged and improved,
principally on a plan suggested by the Rev. William Milton, Rector of
Heckfield, Hants; an excellent engineer, and a man of most extensive
mechanical abilities, whose only reward for so great a service rendered
to this wealthy port was a present of a piece of plate; had he rendered
as great a service to the merchants and corporation of Liverpool, he
would most likely have obtained a handsome independence for life; for
although the charities of Bristol speak highly in its favour, still its
high spirit, its hospitality, or its generosity, are not quite so
proverbial as those of Liverpool.
The Hot-well is distant about a mile and a half to the west of Bristol,
in the parish of Clifton: the water is too well known for its great
efficacy in pulmonary complaints, and cases of general debility, to
require any recapitulation of its virtues, in this slight sketch of the
Hot-well and Clifton.
As a place of fashionable resort, not only for invalids, but for
pleasure, its beautiful situation, both for walks and rides, the
gentility of the company that frequent it, the easy and well regulated
expense with which persons may with comfort and respectability reside
here, must always ensure it an overflow of company in the season. The
Avon, below St. Vincent’s rocks, is but little wider than it is at
Bristol; but as the spring tides rise from 30 to 36 feet, the heaviest
ships can navigate it at such times.
St. Vincent’s rocks, overhanging the Avon, afford to the pedestrian, and
particularly to the botanist, an infinity of amusement; a great portion
of the plants, if not peculiar to this spot, are but rarely to be met
with elsewhere.
These rocks are chiefly composed of a species of chocolate-coloured
marble, bearing a good polish; it is worked into chimney-pieces, &c.,
with good effect, the refuse burning into a strong and beautiful white
lime. The reverberation of sound occasioned by the miners blasting these
rocks, and the dreadful crash of the masses thus hurled from their native
beds down the craggy precipices is grand and terrific; it is in the
fissures of the rocks thus opened that those beautiful chrystals, called
Bristol stones, are found.
CLIFTON
is one of the most charming villages in England. On every side the views
are beautiful; and although its population is great, still it has not
lost its rural appearance. From the salubrity of the air, numerous
respectable families have taken up their residence in the village and its
vicinity; but these elegant mansions being surrounded by their gardens
and shrubberies, they have prevented the ground from being too much
covered with buildings.
KINGSWESTON,
the seat of Lord de Clifford, is about four miles north-west of Bristol.
It is a noble mansion, built by Sir John Vanbrugh, somewhat in his usual
style; but the situation according with the style better than usually
fell to the lot of that architect, it has a grand and noble effect. The
collection of paintings here are by esteemed masters, and very fine; the
gardens, hot-houses, &c. are kept up in very great style. The park,
which is richly wooded and beautifully diversified, offers a rich treat
to the painter; the varied prospects obtained at every turn and opening
of its numerous walks and vistas are as rich and extensive as nature in
this climate can afford. The whole, under very trifling restrictions,
are most kindly and liberally left open by his Lordship, for the public
to enjoy. Kingsweston inn, just above the park, is a comfortable house,
delightfully situated.
To the west of Kingsweston, on a hill called Penpold, is a
pleasure-house: from this hill, which is of great height, the most
beautiful prospects are to be enjoyed. You look down on that fine sheet
of water, Kingroad and the Severn Sea; commanding alternately views of
Somersetshire, Glamorganshire, and Monmouthshire, with Wales in the back
ground; Gloucestershire and Wiltshire: this with the bustle of the
shipping in the nearer sea view, so engage the attention, that time flies
unheeded by.
From hence proceed to Shirehampton, a pleasing village, leading to a good
inn, called Lamplighters’ hall, a place of considerable resort, during
the summer months, to witness the busy scene at the mouth of the Avon: it
is situated close to high water-mark, on the bank of the river, opposite
to Pill or Crockern Pill, where is a Custom-house, at which all vessels
leaving the port of Bristol are obliged to take their last clearance in
going out, and from which they are furnished with pilots inwards. The
ride from hence, when the tides are not too high, over turf to the mouth
of the Avon, is very fine. The house is built purposely to enjoy the
busy scene which the river and Kingroad here present; and its
accommodations are remarkably good, and the charges reasonable.
Frenchhay, in Gloucestershire, is about four miles north-east of Bristol;
the drive this way is beautiful, from the numerous noblemen and
gentlemens’ seats and highly cultivated grounds, which occupy both sides
of the road. It was here, during the war, that the great depôt of French
prisoners was established.
At the east end of the common is a remarkable lusus naturæ, which was
taken out of a stone quarry at Downend; its form is an entire perfect
muscle, consisting of the upper and under shell, which are closed
together; its weight is nearly two tons.
Bristol is but one stage from either the Old or New Passage; it is eleven
miles to the New, and nine to the Old. The mail and most of the coaches
pass their passengers, &c. by the New Passage, as saving a stage on the
Milford road. Chaises or horses are generally charged at the rate of
twelve miles to either.
At Aust (or the Old Passage) it is about two miles over to Beachley, in
the parish of Tidenham, Gloucestershire. This is the direct way to
Chepstow, Newent, and all the forest of Dean, Herefordshire,
Worcestershire, and the upper part of Monmouthshire.
At the New Passage, it is about three miles over at high water to Port
Skewith, near St. Pierre in Monmouthshire. When the wind is S.E. or
N.W., it is directly across the river, therefore you must be at the
passage where you intend to cross, an hour before high water, as they can
only go over then, and that but once, there being no passage during the
flood or ebb.
Should the traveller have before visited Bristol, or decline this
excursion, he will find the walk from Gloucester to
WESTBURY
is by no means uninteresting; the distance eight miles and three
quarters, through Highnam and Minsterworth; the country is studded with
half-seen villas, and animated with churches, whilst the retrospect
commands a fine view of Robin Hood’s hill, with the dark tower of
Gloucester cathedral, just rising in the perspective.
At Westbury is the seat of Maynard Colchester, Esq. The church, with a
detached spire, stands close to the house. Near this place mineralogists
will be highly gratified by visiting a cliff, called Garden, or Golden
Cliff; which is most beautifully encrusted with mundic and crystals.
This rock, standing close to the Severn, is only accessible at the reflux
of the tide: and when illuminated by the sun wears a most beautiful
appearance.
Between Westbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful valley,
bordering on the forest of Dean, is situate
FLAXLEY ABBEY,
the seat of Sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This valley was formerly called
Castiard, or the Happy Valley; and a monastery for Cistercian monks was
founded here by Roger, the second Earl of Hereford, and the charter
confirmed by King Henry II. The abbey was standing till the year 1777,
when part of it was unfortunately consumed by fire; since that a
considerable portion of building has been added, and it is become a very
desirable summer residence. The views from the park, behind the house,
are very extensive, commanding the vale of Gloucester, and the river
Severn, gay with vessels; whilst the extensive forest of Dean, and
Flaxley Abbey, form nearer objects for admiration. This wood abounds
with the most charming walks; and while it affords refreshing shelter
from a summer’s sun, admits partial views of the adjacent country.
Camden, in speaking of the forest of Dean, derives its name from Ardene,
a wood, in the Gaulic and British languages. It lies between the two
rivers Severn and Wye, and contains thirty thousand acres. The soil is
well adapted for the growth of oaks and forest timber; and the situation
particularly commodious for exporting it for ship-building, and other
purposes. The immense quantities of wood annually felled for the use of
the navy have so thinned this forest of its timber, that it is now
preserved till a certain growth, by act of parliament. Camden observes,
that the oak of this forest was so considerable, that the Spanish armada
had orders to destroy the timber of it in the year 1588. It suffered
considerably in the great rebellion.
The iron manufactory has long been carried on in this forest; and to this
day immense beds of iron cinders are found, the reliques of the Romans.
These cinders are not half exhausted of their ore, and are consequently
worked over again: a proof that the Romans knew only the weak power of
the foot blast. As we drew near
NEWNHAM
the Severn became more considerable. The town, situated on the banks of
the river, and backed by the forest of Dean, is very ancient, and in the
year 1018, this manor was granted by King Canute to the Benedictine abbey
of Pershore, in Worcestershire. {25} The churchyard affords a variety of
objects worthy the attention of the passing stranger, amongst which the
church of Westbury forms the most conspicuous feature in the landscape.
The view, previous to our descending the hill to
LIDNEY
is extensive and beautiful. In this place iron-works are carried on by
Mr. Pitchcock. About a mile from Lidney, the Old Passage,—King’s Road,
with the merchant ships lying off Bristol,—Gloucestershire and
Somersetshire hills, studded with gentlemen’s seats, churches, and
half-seen cottages, form a cheerful landscape.
CHEPSTOW.
The weather prevented our seeing the celebrated walks of Piercefield, but
we promised ourselves the pleasure of visiting them on our return down
the Wye. The castle of Chepstow, called Cagwent, or Castell Gwent,
stands on a rock washed by the river Wye, near its influx into the
Severn. Topographical writers differ in their accounts concerning the
antiquity of the castle, but it is generally supposed to have been built
at the same time with the town, appearing at that period to have been a
kind of citadel to Chepstow. {26} The castle was formerly of great
extent, as, according to Leland’s account, the “waulles began at the end
of the great bridge over Wy,” yet, “in the castel ys one tower, as I have
heard say, by the name of Langine.” Little now remains of its former
grandeur: but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended the
decayed steps of the tower, from whence the eye traced with pleasure the
windings of the Wye, till it was at last lost in conjunction with the
Severn. We examined the apartments in which Henry Marten, one of the
regicides, who sat to condemn King Charles I., was confined twenty years.
Grand views of the Bristol Channel still continued to form interesting
objects from the road; but about three miles from Chepstow, we turned
into some fields on the right, to examine the ivy-mantled walls of
CALDECOT CASTLE.