VIII.—IN AN OPIUM DEN.

An effort is being made by a band of British philanthropists, of which

the Rev. Mr. Turner is secretary, to put down, if not the opium traffic,

at any rate that part of it which is covered by the British flag. Opium

is to the Chinese what the quid is to the British tar, or the gin-bottle

to the London charwoman. But in reality, as I firmly believe, for the

purpose of opening the door to all sorts of bribery and corruption, the

traffic is prohibited as much as possible by the Chinese Government, for

the ostensible object of preserving the health and morals of the people.

This task is a very difficult one. A paternal Government is always in

difficulties, and once we Christian people of England have gone to war

with the Chinese in order to make them take our Indian-grown opium—a

manufacture in which a large capital is invested, and the duty of which

yields the British Government in India a magnificent revenue. It is a

question for the moralist to decide how far a Government is justified in

saying to a people: “We know so and so is bad, but as you will use it,

you may as well pay a heavy tax on its use.” That is the practical way

in which statesmen look at it, and of course there is a good deal to be

said for that view. But it is not pleasant to feel that money, even if

it be used for State purposes, is made in a dirty manner; though I have

been in countries where the minister of the religion of holiness and

purity is content to take a part of his living from the brothel-keeper

and the prostitute. Evidently there are many men as ready to take the

devil’s money as was Rowland Hill to accept the Bible at his hands.

But I am touching on questions not to be settled in the twinkling of an

eye, or by a phrase or two in print. Perhaps I may best serve the cause

of humanity if, instead of saying what I think and feel, I merely content

myself with describing what I saw in the East-End of London, one Saturday

night, in this year of grace one thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.

Have my readers ever been in Bluegate Fields, somewhere down Ratcliffe

Highway? The glory of the place is departed. I am writing _more

Americano_, where the wickedest man in the town is always regarded as a

hero. The City missionary and the East London Railway between them have

reformed the place. To the outward eye it is a waste howling spot, but

it is a garden of Eden to what it was when a policeman dared not go by

himself into its courts, and when respectability, if it ever strayed into

that filthy quarter, generally emerged from it minus its watch and coat,

and with a skull more or less cracked, and with a face more or less

bloody.

“Thanks to you,” said a surgeon to a City missionary who has been

labouring in the spot some sixteen years, and is now recognised as a

friend wherever he goes, “thanks to you,” said the surgeon, “I can now

walk along the place alone, and in safety, a thing I never expected to

do;” and I believe that the testimony is true, and that it is in such

districts the labours of the City missionary are simply invaluable. Down

in those parts what we call the Gospel has very little power. It is a

thing quite outside the mass. There are chapels and churches, it is

true, but the people don’t go into them. I pass a great Wesleyan I

chapel. “How is it attended?” I ask; and the answer is: “Very badly

indeed.” I hear that the nearest Independent chapel is turned into a

School Board school; and there is Rehoboth,—I need not say it is a hyper

place of worship, and was, when Bluegate Fields was a teeming mass of

godless men and women, only attended by some dozen or so of the elect,

who prayed their prayers, and read their Bible, and listened to their

parsons with sublime indifference to the fact that there at their very

door, under their very eyes, within reach of their very hands, were souls

to be saved, and brands to be snatched from the burning, and jewels to be

won for the Redeemer’s crown. I can only hear of one preacher in this

part who is really getting the people to hear him, and he is the Rev.

Harry Jones, who deserves to be made a bishop, and who would be, if the

Church of England was wise and knew its dangers, and was careful to avert

the impending storm, which I, though I may not live to see the day, know

to be near. But let us pass, on leaving Rehoboth, a black and ugly

carcass, on the point of being pulled down by the navvy. I turn into a

little court on my right, one of the very few the railway has spared for

the present. It may be there are some dozen houses in the court. The

population is, I should certainly imagine, quite up to the accommodation

of the place. Indeed, if I might venture to make a remark, it would be

to the effect that a little more elbow-room would be of great advantage

to all. From every door across the court are ropes, and on these ropes

the blankets and sheets and family linen are hanging up to dry. These I

have to duck under as I walk along; but the people are all civil, though

my appearance makes them stare, and all give a friendly and respectful

greeting to the City missionary by my side.

All at once my conductor disappears in a little door, and I follow,

walking, on this particular occasion, by faith, and not by sight; for the

passage was dark, and I knew not my way. I climb up a flight of stairs,

and find myself in a little crib—it would be an abuse of terms to call it

a room. It is just about my height, and I fancy it is a great deal

darker and dingier than the room in which a first-class misdemeanant like

Colonel Baker was confined. The place is full of smoke. It is not at

first that I take in its contents. As I stand by the door, there are two

beds of an ancient character; between these beds is a very narrow

passage, and it is in this passage I recognise the master of the house—a

black-eyed, cheerful Chinaman, who has become so far naturalised amongst

us as to do us the honour of taking the truly British name of Johnson.

Johnson is but thinly clad. I see the perspiration glistening on his

dark and shining skin; but Johnson seems as pleased to see me as if he

had known me fifty years. In time, through the smoke, I see Johnson’s

friends—dark, perspiring figures curled on the beds around, one, for want

of room, squatting, cross-legged, in a corner—each with a tube of the

shape and size of a German flute in his hands. I look at this tube with

some curiosity. In the middle of it is a little bowl. In that little

bowl is the opium, which is placed there as if it were a little bit of

tow dipped in tar, and which is set fire to by being held to the little

lamps, of which there are three or four on the bed or in the room. This

operation performed, the smoker reclines and draws up the smoke, and

looks a very picture of happiness and ease. Of course I imitate the bad

example; I like to do as the Romans do, and Johnson hands me a tube which

I put into my mouth, while, as I hold it to the lamp, he inserts the

heated opium into the bowl; and, as I pull, the thick smoke curls up and

adds to the cloud which makes the room as oppressive as the atmosphere of

a Turkish bath. How the little pig-eyes glisten! and already I feel that

I may say: “Am I not a man and a brother?” The conversation becomes

general. Here we are jolly companions every one. Ching tells me the

Chinese don’t send us the best tea; and grins all across his yellow face

as I say that I know that, but intimate that they make us pay for it as

if they did. Tsing smiles knowingly as I ask him what his wife does when

he is so long away. Then we have a discussion as to the comparative

merits of opium and beer, and my Chinese friends sagely observe that it

is all a matter of taste. “You mans like beer, and we mans in our

country like opium.” All were unanimous in saying that they never had

more than a few whiffs, and all that I could learn of its effects when

taken in excess was that opium sent them off into a stupid sleep. With

the somewhat doubtful confessions of De Quincey and Coleridge in my

memory, I tried to get them to acknowledge sudden impulses, poetic

inspirations, splendid dreams; but of such things these little fellows

had never conceived; the highest eulogium I heard was: “You have

pains—pain in de liver, pain in de head—you smoke—all de pains go.” The

most that I could learn was that opium is an expensive luxury for a poor

man. Three-halfpenny-worth only gives you a few minutes’ smoke, and

these men say they don’t smoke more at a time. Lascar Sall, a rather

disreputable female, well known in the neighbourhood, would, they told

me, smoke five shillings-worth of opium a day. Johnson’s is the

clubhouse of the Chinese. He buys the opium and prepares it for smoking,

and they come and smoke and have a chat, and a cup of tea and a slice of

bread and butter, and go back and sleep on board ship. Their little

smoking seemed to do them no harm. The City missionary says he has never

seen them intoxicated. It made them a little lazy and sleepy—that is

all; but they had done their day’s work, and had earned as much title to

a little indulgence as the teetotaler, who regales himself with coffee;

or the merchant, who smokes his cigar on his pleasant lawn on a summer’s

eve. I own when I left the room I felt a little giddy, that I had to

walk the crowded streets with care; but then I was a novice, and the

effect would not be so great on a second trial. I should have enjoyed a

cup of good coffee after; but that is a blessing to which we in London,

with all our boasted civilisation, have not attained. I frankly avow, as

I walked to the railway station, I almost wished myself back in the opium

den. There I heard no foul language, saw no men and women fighting, no

sots reeling into the gutters, or for safety shored up against the wall.

For it was thus the mob, through which I had to pass, was preparing

itself for the services of the sanctuary, and the rest of the Sabbath.

Days and Nights in London; Or, Studies in Black and Gray · 第 12 / 23 题