Voyages Round the World

_I.--To the South Seas_

Captain James Cook, son of a farm labourer, was born at

Martin Cleveland, England, on October 27, 1728. Picking up

knowledge at the village school, tending cows in the

fields, apprenticed at Staithes, near Whitby, the boy

eventually ran away to sea. In 1755, volunteering for the

Royal Navy, he sailed to North America in the Eagle; then,

promoted to be master of the Mercury, he did efficient

service in surveying the St. Lawrence in co-operation with

General Wolfe. His first voyage of discovery was in the

Endeavour with a party to observe the transit of Venus in

1768, and after three years he returned, to start again,

on his second voyage, in 1772, with the Resolution and

Adventure to verify reports of a southern continent in the

Pacific. His third and last voyage in the Resolution led

him to explore the coast of North America as far as Icy

Cape, and returning to the Sandwich Islands, he met his

death while pacifying some angry natives on the shore of

Owhyhee (Hawaii), on February 14, 1779. The original folio

edition of the "Voyages" was published in 1784, compiled

from journals of Cook, Banks, Solander, and others who

accompanied him.

We left Plymouth Sound on August 26, 1768, and spent five days at

Madeira, where Nature has been very liberal with her gifts, but the

people lack industry. On reaching Rio de Janeiro, the captain met with

much incivility from the viceroy, who would not let him land for a long

time; but when we walked through the town the females showed their

welcome by throwing nosegays from the windows. Dr. Solander and two

other gentlemen of our party received so many of these love-tokens that

they threw them away by hatfuls.

When we came in sight of Tierra del Fuego, the captain went ashore to

discourse with the natives, who rose up and threw away the small sticks

which they held in their hands, as a token of amity. Snow fell thick,

and we were warned by the doctor that "whoever sits down will sleep, and

whoever sleeps will wake no more." But he soon felt so drowsy that he

lay down, and we could hardly keep him awake. Setting sail again, we

passed the strait of Le Maire and doubled Cape Horn, and then, as the

ship came near to Otaheite, where the transit of Venus was observed, the

captain issued a new rule to this effect: "That in order to prevent

quarrels and confusion, every one of the ship's crew should endeavour to

treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all fair means

to cultivate a friendship with them."

On New Year's Day, 1770, we passed Queen Charlotte's Sound, calling the

point Cape Farewell. We found the natives of New Zealand modest and

reserved in their behaviour, and, sailing northward for New Holland, we

called a bay Botany Bay because of the number of plants discovered

there, and another Trinity Bay because it was discovered on Trinity

Sunday. After much dangerous navigation, the ship was brought to in

Endeavour River to be refitted. On a clear day, Mr. Green, the

astronomer, and other gentlemen had landed on an island to observe the

transit of Mercury, and for this reason this spot was called Mercury

Bay.

Later, we discovered the mainland beyond York Islands, and here the

captain displayed the English colours, and called it New South Wales,

firing three volleys in the name of the king of Great Britain. After we

had left Booby Island in search of New Guinea, we came in sight of a

small island, and some of the officers strongly urged the captain to

send a party of men on shore to cut down the cocoanut-trees for the sake

of the fruit. This, with equal wisdom and humanity, he peremptorily

refused as unjust and cruel, sensible that the poor Indians, who could

not brook even the landing of a small party on their coast, would have

made vigorous efforts to defend their property.

Shortly afterwards, we were surprised at the sight of an island W.S.W.,

which we flattered ourselves was a new discovery. Before noon we had

sight of houses, groves of trees, and flocks of sheep, and after the

boat had put off to land, horsemen were seen from the ship, one of whom

had a lace hat on, and was dressed in a coat and waistcoat of the

fashion of Europe. The Dutch colours were hoisted over the town, and the

rajah paid us a visit on board, accepting gifts of an English dog and a

spying-glass. During a short stay on shore for the purchase of

provisions, we found that the Dutch agent, Mr. Lange, was not keeping

faith with us. At his instigation the Portuguese were driving away such

of the Indians as had brought palm-syrup and fowls to sell.

At this juncture Captain Cook, happening to look at the old man who had

been distinguished by the name of Prime Minister, imagined that he saw

in his features a disapprobation of the present proceedings, and willing

to improve the advantage, he grasped the Indian's hand, and gave him an

old broadsword. This well-timed present produced all the good effects

that could be wished. The prime minister was enraptured at so honourable

a mark of distinction, and, brandishing his sword over the head of the

impertinent Portuguese, he made both him and the men who commanded the

party sit down behind him on the ground, and the whole business was

accomplished.

This island of Savu is between twenty and thirty miles long; the women

wear a kind of petticoat held up by girdles of beads, the king and his

minister a nightgown of coarse chintz, carrying a silver-headed cane.

On October 10, 1770, the captain and the rest of the gentlemen went

ashore on reaching the harbour of Batavia. Here the Endeavour had to be

refitted, and intermittent fever laid many of our party low. Our

surgeon, Dr. Monkhouse, died, our Indian boy, Tayeto, paid the debt of

Nature, and Captain Cook himself was taken ill.

We were glad to steer for Java, and on our way to the Cape of Good Hope

the water was purified with lime and the decks washed with vinegar to

prevent infection of fever. After a little stay at St. Helena we sighted

Beachy Head, and landed at Deal, where the ship's company indulged

freely in that mirth and social jollity common to all English sailors

upon their return from a long voyage, who as readily forget hardships

and dangers as with alacrity and bravery they encounter them.

_II.--Round the World via the Antarctic_

The King's expectation not being wholly answered, Captain Cook was

appointed to the Resolution, and Captain Furneaux to the Adventure, both

ships being fully equipped, with instructions to find Cape Circumcision,

said to be in latitude 54° S. and about 11° 20' E. longitude from

Greenwich. Captain Cook was to endeavour to discover whether this was

part of the supposed continent or only the promontory of an island, and

then to continue his journey southward and then eastward.

On Monday, July 13, 1772, the two ships sailed from Plymouth, passing

the Eddystone, and after visiting the islands of Canaria, Teneriffe, and

others, reached the Cape of Good Hope on September 29. Here we stayed

until November 22, when we directed our course towards the Antarctic

circle, meeting on December 8 with a gale of such fury that we could

carry no sails, and were driven by this means to eastward of our

intended course, not the least hope remaining of our reaching Cape

Circumcision.

We now encountered in 51° 50' S. latitude and 21° 3' E. longitude some

ice islands. The dismal scene, a view to which we were unaccustomed, was

varied as well by birds of the petrel kind as by several whales which

made their appearance among the ice, and afforded us some idea of a

southern Greenland. But though the appearance of the ice with the waves

breaking over it might afford a few minutes' pleasure to the eye, yet it

could not fail to fill us with horror when we reflected on our danger,

for the ship would be dashed to pieces in a moment were she to get

against the weather side of these islands, where the sea runs high.

Captain Cook had directed the Adventure, in case of separation, to

cruise three days in that place, but in a thick fog we lost sight of

her. This was a dismal prospect, for we now were exposed to the dangers

of the frozen climate without the company of our fellow voyagers, which

before had relieved our spirits when we considered we were not entirely

alone in case we lost our vessel.

The spirits of our sailors were greatly exhilarated when we reached

Dusky Bay, New Zealand. Landing a shooting party at Duck Cove, we found

a native with his club and some women behind him, who would not move.

His fears, however, were all dissipated by Captain Cook going up to

embrace him. After a stay here we opened Queen Charlotte's Sound and

found the Adventure at anchor; none can describe the joy we felt at this

most happy meeting. They had experienced terrible weather, and having

made no discovery of land, determined to bear away from Van Diemen's

Land, which was supposed to join New Holland and was discovered by

Tasman, in 1642 A.D. Here they refitted their ship, and after three

months' separation met us again.

During all this arduous experience of seamanship, sometimes involved in

sheets of snow, and in mists so dark that a man on the forecastle could

not be seen from the quarter-deck, it was astonishing that the crew of

the Resolution should continue in perfect health. Nothing can redound

more to the honour of Captain Cook than his paying particular attention

to the preservation of health among his company. By observing the

strictest discipline from the highest to the lowest, his commands were

duly observed and punctually executed.

After a lengthened stay with the New Zealanders, and all hopes of

discovering a continent having now vanished, we were induced to believe

that there is no southern continent between New Zealand and America,

and, steering clear the island, we made our way to Otaheite, where the

Resolution lost her lower anchor in the bay. Excursions were made

inland, and King Otoo, a personable man, six feet in height, and about

thirty years of age, treated the party with great entertainment.

On January 30, 1774, we sailed from New Zealand, and reaching latitude

67° 5' S., we found an immense field of ice with ninety-seven ice-hills

glistening white in the distance. Captain Cook says: "I will not say it

was impossible anywhere to get further to the south, but the attempting

it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what I believe

no man in any situation would have thought of."

We therefore sailed northward again, meeting with heavy storms, and the

captain, being taken ill with a colic, and in the extremity of the case,

the doctor fed him with the flesh of a favourite dog.

On the discovery of Palmerston Island--named after one of the Lords of

the Admiralty--and Savage Island, as appropriate to the character of the

natives, we had some adventures with the Mallicos, who express their

admiration by hissing like a goose.

We stayed some time in Tanna, with its volcano furiously burning, and

then steering south-west, we discovered an uninhabited island, which

Captain Cook named Norfolk Island, in honour of the noble family of

Howard. We reached the Straits of Magalhaes, and, going north, the

captain gave the names of Cumberland Bay and the Isle of Georgia, and

then we found a land ice-bound and inhospitable. At last we reached

home, landing at Portsmouth on July 30, 1775.

_III.--The Pacific Isles and the Arctic Circle_

Former navigators had returned to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope; the

arduous task was now assigned to Captain Cook of attempting it by

reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and America. He was

then ordered to proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Islands, and then,

having crossed the Equator into the northern tropics, to hold such a

course as might best probably give success to the attempt of finding out

a northern passage.

On the afternoon of July 11, 1776, Captain Cook set sail from Plymouth

in the Resolution, giving orders to Captain Clerke to follow in the

Discovery. After a short stay at Santa Cruz, in the island of Teneriffe,

we were joined by the Discovery at Cape Town.

Leaving the Cape, we passed some islands, which Captain Cook named

Princes Islands, and made for the land discovered by M. de Kerguelen.

Here, in a bay, we celebrated Christmas rejoicings amid desolate

surroundings. The captain named it Christmas Harbour, and wrote on the

other side of a piece of parchment, found in a bottle, these words:

_Naves Resolution et Discovery de Rege Magnæ Britanniæ Decembris 1776_,

and buried the same beneath a pile of stones, waving above it the

British flag.

Having failed to see a human being on shore, he sailed to Van Diemen's

Land, and took the ships into Adventure Bay for water and wood. The

natives, with whom we were conversant, seemed mild and cheerful, with

little of that savage appearance common to people in their situation,

nor did they discover the least reserve or jealousy in their intercourse

with strangers.

On our landing at Annamooka, in the Friendly Islands, we were

entertained with great civility by Toobou, the chief, who gave us much

amusement by a sort of pantomime, in which some prizefighters

displayed their feats of arms, and this part of the drama concluded with

the presentation of some laughable story which produced among the chiefs

and their attendants the most immoderate mirth. This friendly reception

was also repeated in the island of Hapaee, where Captain Cook ordered an

exhibition of fireworks, and in return the king, Feenou, gave us an

exhibition of dances in which twenty women entered a circle, whose hands

were adorned with garlands of crimson flowers, and many of their persons

were decorated with leaves of trees, curiously scalloped, and ornamented

at the edges. In the island of Matavai it is impossible to give an

adequate idea of the joy of the natives on our arrival. The shores

everywhere resounded with the name of Cook; not a child that could lisp

"Toote" was silent.

Before proceeding to the northern hemisphere we passed a cluster of

isles which Captain Cook distinguished by the name of Sandwich Islands,

in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. They are not inferior in beauty to

the Friendly Islands, nor are the inhabitants less ingenious or

civilised.

When in latitude 44° N., longitude 234° 30', the long expected coast of

New Albion, so named by Sir Francis Drake, was descried at a distance of

ten leagues, and pursuing our course we reached the inlet which is

called by the natives Nootka, but Captain Cook gave it the name of King

George's Sound, where we moored our vessels for some time. The

inhabitants are short in stature, with limbs short in proportion to the

other parts; they are wretched in appearance and lost to every idea of

cleanliness. In trafficking with us some displayed a disposition to

knavery, and the appellation of thieves is certainly applicable to them.

Between the promontory which the captain named Cape Douglas after Dr.

Douglas, the Dean of Windsor, and Point Banks is a large, deep bay,

which received the name of Smoky Bay; and northward he discovered more

land composed of a chain of mountains, the highest of which obtained the

name of Mount St. Augustine. But the captain was now fully convinced

that no passage could be discovered by this inlet. Steering N.E., we

discovered a passage of waves dashing against rocks; and, on tasting the

water, it proved to be a river, and not a strait, as might have been

imagined. This we traced to the latitude of 61° 30' and the longitude of

210°, which is upwards of 210 miles from its entrance, and saw no

appearance of its source. [Here the captain having left a blank in his

journal, which he had not filled up with any particular name, the Earl

of Sandwich very properly directed it to be called Cook's River.] The

time we spent in the discovery of Cook's River ought not to be regretted

if it should hereafter prove useful to the present or any future age,

but the delay thus occasioned was an effectual loss to us, who had a

greater object in view. The season was far advanced, and it was now

evident that the continent of North America extended much further to the

west than we had reason to expect from the most approved charts. A

bottle was buried in the earth containing some English coins of 1772,

and the point of land was called Point Possession, being taken under the

flag in the name of His Majesty.

After passing Foggy Island, which we supposed from its situation to be

the island on which Behring had bestowed the same appellation, we were

followed by some natives in a canoe who sent on board a small wooden box

which contained a piece of paper in the Russian language. To this was

prefixed the date 1778, and a reference made therein to the year 1776,

from which we were convinced that others had preceded us in visiting

these dreary regions.

While staying at Oonalaska we observed to the north of Cape Prince of

Wales, neither tide nor current either on the coast of America or that

of Asia. This circumstance gave rise to an opinion which some of our

people entertained, that the two coasts were connected either by land or

ice, and that opinion received some degree of strength from our never

having seen any hollow waves from the northward, and from our seeing ice

almost all the way across.

We were now by the captain's intention to proceed to Sandwich Islands in

order to pass a few of the winter months there, if we should meet with

the necessary refreshments, and then direct our course to Kamtchatka in

the ensuing year.

_IV.--Life's Voyage Suddenly Ended_

We reached the island called by the natives Owhyhee with the summits of

its mountains covered with snow. Here an eclipse of the moon was

observed. We discovered the harbour of Karakakooa, which we deemed a

proper place for refitting the ships, our masts and rigging having

suffered much. On going ashore Captain Cook discovered the habitation of

the Society of Priests, where he was present at some solemn ceremonies

and treated with great civility. Afterwards the captain conducted the

king, Terreeoboo, on to the ship with every mark of attention, giving

him a shirt, and on our visits afterwards on shore we trusted ourselves

among the natives without the least reserve.

Some time after, however, we noticed a change in their attitude.

Following a short absence in search of a better anchorage, we found our

reception very different, in a solitary and deserted bay with hardly a

friend appearing or a canoe stirring. We were told that Terreeoboo was

absent, and that the bay was tabooed. Our party on going ashore was met

by armed natives, and a scuffle arose about the theft of some articles

from the Discovery, and Pareea, our friendly native, was, through a

misunderstanding, knocked down with an oar. Then Terreeoboo came and

complained of our having killed two of his people.

On Sunday, February 14, 1779, that memorable day, very early in the

morning, there was excitement on shore, and Captain Cook, taking his

double-barrelled gun, went ashore to seize Terreeoboo, and keep him on

board, according to his usual practice, until the stolen boat should be

returned. He ordered that every canoe should be prevented from leaving

the bay, and the captain then awoke the old king and invited him with

the mildest terms to visit the ship. After some disputation he set out

with Captain Cook, when a woman near the waterside, the mother of the

king's two boys, entreated him to go no further, and two warriors

obliged him to sit down. The old king, filled with terror and dejection,

refused to move, notwithstanding all the persuasions of Captain Cook,

who, seeing further attempts would be risky, came to the shore. At the

same time two principal chiefs were killed on the opposite side of the

bay. A native armed with a long iron spike threatened Captain Cook, who

at last fired a charge of small shot at him, but his mat prevented any

harm. A general attack upon the marines in the boat was made, and with

fury the natives rushed upon them, dangerously wounding several of them.

The last time the captain was distinctly seen he was standing at the

water's edge, ordering the boats to cease firing and pull in, when a

base assassin, coming behind him and striking him on the head with his

club, felled him to the ground, in such a direction that he lay with his

face prone to the water.

A general shout was set up by the islanders on seeing the captain fall,

and his body was dragged on shore, where he was surrounded by the enemy,

who, snatching daggers from each other's hands, displayed a savage

eagerness to join in his destruction. It would seem that vengeance was

directed chiefly against our captain, by whom they supposed their king

was to be dragged on board and punished at discretion; for, having

secured his body, they fled without much regarding the rest of the

slain, one of whom they threw into the sea.

Thus ended the life of the greatest navigator that this or any other

nation could ever boast of, who led his crews of gallant British seamen

twice round the world, reduced to a certainty the non-existence of a

southern continent, about which the learned of all nations were in

doubt, settled the boundaries of the earth and sea, and demonstrated the

impracticability of a north-west passage from the Atlantic to the great

southern ocean, for which our ablest geographers had contended, and in

pursuit of which vast sums had been spent in vain, and many mariners had

miserably perished.

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