and other curiosities, is open to all persons who choose to attend as
students, without any expense, recommendation, or favour, every day in
the week; but, to prevent the labours of these being interrupted, the
visits of such as only come from motives of curiosity are limited to two
days in seven. I saw, with pleasure, that the object of this splendid
institution is fully answered. Forty or fifty young men, deeply intent
on the subject of their inquiries, were seated in different parts of the
room, and seemed to pursue, with enthusiasm, those studies, which the
liberality of their country thus afforded them the means of cultivating.
The gallery of manuscripts (called the gallery of Mazarine) contains
thirty thousand volumes, generally on the history of France, and more
particularly relating to facts which have taken place since the reign
of Lewis XI, twenty-five thousand of which are in learned or foreign
languages. The librarian, to whose care these precious papers are
entrusted, was known to a gentleman who accompanied me, and through his
goodness we saw several, which are not commonly exhibited.
I was much surprised at finding, in the hand writing of _Lewis XIV._
memoirs of his own times, so accurately taken, that, with very little
difficulty, they might be prepared for the press. I understand that a
gentleman, belonging to the library, began this useful task, and had made
considerable progress, when a sudden illness deprived his country and the
literary world of his services.
I was not a little entertained with the love letters of Henry IV., which
are in perfect preservation, and some of which have, I believe, been
published. The following is a _fac simile_ of one, which particularly
attracted my notice:
“Mon cher cœur, nous venons de dyner
ceans, et sommes fort sous. Je
vous veyrré devant que partyre de Parys
vous cherryre non comme yl
faut, mes comme je pourre
Ce porteur me haste sy fort que
je ne vous puys fayre que ce
mot bonsoyr le cœur a moy je
te bese un mylyon de foys
8
ce XIIIIIme octobre 8 H 8
8
HENRY[83].”
As the tokens of regard, which the gallant Henry thought his mistress
deserved, were only limited in number to a million, we cannot too much
admire the prudence with which he, who was never known to break his word,
promised to testify his affection, not according to the merit of the
lady, but to the powers of her lover.
The five large rooms on the second floor contain the titles and
genealogies of private families, which, though forbidden, since the
revolution, to be kept by individuals, are here preserved, in order
to ascertain the claims of property, and to assist the researches
of historians. They are contained in five thousand boxes, or
_porte-feuilles_, and are arranged and labelled with the greatest
precision.
The cabinet of medals is ornamented by drawings over the doors by
_Boucher_; by three large pictures, by Natoire, representing Thalia,
Calliope, and Terpsichore; by three of Carlo Vanloo, representing
_Psyche_ led by Hymen, the inventress of the flute, and the three
protectors of the Muses. The cabinet of antiques, above stairs, contains
the busts, vases, inscriptions, instruments of sacrifice, &c. collected
by the celebrated _Caylus_.
The cabinet of engravings, which occupies what is called, in France,
the “entresol,” or the floor between the first and second, consists of
five thousand volumes, divided into twelve classes. The first contains
sculptors, architects, engineers, and engravers, arranged in schools.
The second, prints, emblems, and devices of piety. The third, greek
and roman fables and antiquities. The fourth, medals, coins, and arms.
The fifth, public festivals, cavalcades, and tournaments. The sixth,
arts and mathematics. The seventh, prints relating to romances and
works of pleasantry. The eighth, natural history in all its branches.
The ninth, geography. The tenth, plans and views of ancient and modern
edifices. The eleventh, portraits of persons, of all conditions, to the
number of fifty thousand; and the twelfth, a collection of fashions and
_costumes_ of almost every country in the world, from the _porte-feuille_
of _Gaigniéres_. This last class is said to contain the most extensive
collection yet known of french fashions, from the time of Clovis to the
present age. The greater part of the sheets are coloured, some are on
vellum, copied from glass windows, from pieces of tapestry, and from
figures on tombs. The picture of king John, being the first specimen of
french painting, is found in this collection. It is well preserved.
I ought not to conclude my account of the national library without
mentioning, that among the manuscripts there are several in the persian,
arabic, and Chinese languages.
Besides the “national library,” there is the library of the Pantheon (or
St. Généviève), consisting of eighty thousand volumes, and two thousand
manuscripts, open every day from ten till two o’clock.
The Mazarine library, or (“des quatre nations,”) is open every day, from
ten till two o’clock (excepting on the 5th and 10th of each month), and
contains sixty thousand volumes.
The library of the “Institute” is open every day to members, and every
15th of the month to the public.
The legislature, the tribunate, the senate, and the other constituted
authorities, have also their libraries.
In addition to these sources of knowledge, there are several literary
institutions, called, when I first came here, “_des Lycées_, or
_Lyceums_,” but which, in consequence of the national colleges lately
established having taken that name, have changed theirs, and assumed the
appellation of “_des Athénées_.” The most distinguished of these, “le
Lycée,” (or, according to its new title, “l’Athénée,”), “republicain,”
has been the principal source of my amusement at Paris. It consists of
annual subscribers, who, for the moderate sum of four _louis_, enjoy
all its benefits. The society has a large floor, or apartment, situate
near the “Palais Royal,” (in a street called by its name); and it is
open the whole of every day for the use of the subscribers. There is a
small library, where all the periodical publications and newspapers are
taken in; and while three or four rooms are appropriated to conversation,
one is devoted to reading, and profound silence is there ordered and
maintained. In addition to these, there is an excellent lecture room,
with all the necessary apparatus for experiments, in which the ablest
men in France appear as professors. The subject of the lectures, which
are regularly given, always twice, and frequently three times, in the
course of the day, are literature, the sciences, and modern languages.
When I add, that _Fourcroy_ takes the chymical department, that _Cuvier_
reads on natural history, and that _la Harpe_, till banished by the
government, was the professor of literature, you will readily allow, that
no establishment can be better organized. Besides these, “_Hassenfratz_”
gives very good lectures on agriculture, and the studies connected
with that science. “_Sué_,” as an anatomist, is justly celebrated; and
the other professors, in their different lines, prove themselves well
qualified for the tasks assigned them. With “_Fourcroy_,” and “_Cuvier_,”
I was particularly delighted; and it is impossible, without having heard
them, to form an idea of the clearness and eloquence with which they
explain the subjects of their respective departments. As to “_la Harpe_”
I must confess, I was not a little disappointed. From his great renown,
and from the encomiums past on him, in early life, by _Voltaire_,
I expected to have been at once pleased, instructed, and surprised.
In these hopes I was strongly encouraged by the manner in which his
lectures were spoken, of at Paris, and by the crowds which flocked to
the “_Lycée_,” whenever it was his turn to fill the chair. Dreadful was
my disappointment, when, at last, I heard him. _Pompignan_, _la Motte_,
_Fontenelle_, and some other authors of that stamp, were the subjects
of his discourses; and, beginning with telling us that these writers
were either entirely forgotten, or deserved to be so, he continued, for
whole days together, to drag their ghosts before his audience, whom he
seemed to convert into a “_tribunal révolutionaire_” of criticism, and to
attack their memory with all the warmth and violence of an “_accusateur
public_.” These philippics against dead and neglected authors, filled
up with long quotations from the works which he ridiculed, interlarded
with attacks on those philosophical and political principles of which
he was originally the ardent advocate, and enlivened now and then with
a joke, and sometimes with an anecdote, constituted the whole merit of
his lectures. Yet the members of the “_Lycée_” heard him with wonder and
admiration; and whenever he threw down his book, turned round with a
look of self-complacence, or filled his tumbler with lemonade from the
decanter always placed by his side, the signal was instantly taken, and
loud and repeated applauses thundered from every corner of the room. To
account for this partiality, I must repeat, that every thing at Paris is
ruled by fashion; and _la Harpe_ being generally considered as the most
distinguished literary man now alive, every thing which fell from his
tongue was necessarily excellent; and I have no doubt, that if he had
contented himself with reading an article from one of the newspapers of
the morning, he would have been equally admired and as warmly applauded.
The “_Lycée_” is altogether a most excellent establishment; and,
considering, that two lectures, and frequently three, are given six days
in every week, and that these lectures are included in the subscription,
the price of four louis is very moderate.
I cannot speak properly of this institution as a place of society, as I
seldom staid there after the conclusion of the lectures; but I am told,
that the members are, generally speaking, respectable men. The rooms
are constantly full, and some persons may be said nearly to pass their
lives there, since they are scarcely ever absent, except at the hour of
dinner. I think it not improbable, that much amusement may be found in
the conversation of the members; but I confine my recommendation to the
advantages which the “_Lycée_” affords, as an easy source of profitable
knowledge.
“_L’Institut national_,” that celebrated society, which has succeeded
“_l’académie française_,” which is held up as the great republican
repository of genius and learning, and into which admittance is solicited
with so much eagerness, both at home and abroad, consists of one hundred
and forty-four members resident at Paris, and of twenty-four foreign
associates. It is divided into three classes; the sciences, physical and
mathematical; the sciences, moral and political; literature and the fine
arts. Each of these classes is again subdivided.
The “_Institut_” has a public séance, or meeting, on the 15th of every
month. I was present at one of these assemblies; and I am ashamed to
confess, that I had difficulty in refraining from laughter. The society
holds its sittings in a spacious room in the palace of the _Louvre_.
The members were seated in such silent, solemn state, each with his
reading desk, books, ink, and wax lights before him, while a dull and
uninteresting paper was reading, that their gravity produced the opposite
effect on me, and “_malgré_” my respect for the establishment, and for
those who belong to it, it was not without a struggle that I composed my
features, and checked the impulse of nature. At last, fortunately for
me, “_Colin d’Harleville_,” a dramatic writer of merit, ascended the
rostrum, and read a kind of funeral oration, or eulogy, on the memory of
an author of reputation, lately dead. The simplicity of the speaker’s
manner, the harmony of his voice, and the feeling which he displayed,
in deploring the loss and proving the worth of his friend, charmed
every ear; and, notwithstanding the pompous faces which surrounded me,
I became as melancholy as they wished to appear serious. The members of
“l’institut national” wear a blue cloth uniform, richly embroidered with
silk of the same colour.
The “_Jardin national des Plantes_[84],” founded originally by Buffon, is
one of the most interesting objects at Paris. Naturalists, and persons
fond of botany, have here every opportunity of cultivating those useful
studies, and of gratifying, in the amplest manner, their favourite taste.
The garden itself, which is extensive, and reaches to the river, contains
every kind of curious and exotic plant. There is a greenhouse likewise,
filled with such trees, the tender nature of which cannot bear the
coldness of a northern atmosphere.
There is also a _ménagerie_, or collection of animals, among which every
kind of fierce, rare, and foreign quadrupeds may be found. On my first
arrival at Paris, there were two elephants, of different sizes, who
had lived several years together in the same stable. They were of very
considerable dimensions, equal to those, the effigy of which is sometimes
seen on a London stage. The male has lately died, and “_Cuvier_” is to
anatomise the body, and give a lecture on the subject. The female, for
some time after the death of her companion, showed evident symptoms of
grief, and even refused, at first, every kind of nourishment. The house
attached to “le Jardin des Plantes” is filled with a precious collection
of curiosities in natural history, properly arranged, and correctly
named. Several rooms are filled with these valuable objects; and I am
told, by persons acquainted with such subjects, that very little is
wanting to make this _dépôt_ complete. Stuffed quadrupeds[85], birds,
plants, fossils, fish, and shells, offer every kind of variety; and even
the ignorant man finds here a source of never-failing amusement. The
collection of insects is particularly curious and extensive. I believe it
is considered as the finest in the world.
The “_Jardin des Plantes_,” like every other national establishment at
Paris, is seen gratuitously, and is open to foreigners every day, while
frenchmen are only admitted three or four times in each week. It is
impossible to mention too often, or to admire too highly, a _trait_ of
hospitality so truly magnificent.
The “cabinet _de l’École des Mines_” is a superb establishment. It is
situate in the principal building towards the key of the “_hôtel des
Monnaies_.” It was formed in 1778, of the collection which the famous
mineralogist, le Sage, was eighteen years in putting together. The middle
of the cabinet forms an amphitheatre, capable of containing two hundred
persons. Glass cases enclose, in the finest order, minerals of every
kind, and from every part of the world. Four other separate cases offer
models of machinery. On the stairs, leading to the gallery, is the bust
of monsieur le Sage, which was placed there by the gratitude of his
pupils. The gallery itself is surrounded with cases, containing specimens
of the productions of mines, too numerous to be placed with those which
are in the first cabinet of mines. The interior of the cabinet is 45
feet long, by 38 wide, and 40 feet high. All the english, who have seen
“_l’École des Mines_,” agree, in speaking of it as one of the most
interesting sights of this interesting capital[86].
Beside the great establishments which I have mentioned, there are several
others, which it would be an endless task to attempt to specify.
There are also many “lycées” or “athénées,” beside that of which I have
spoken. There are likewise private subscription lectures on all subjects,
many of which are of high repute, such as those of Mr. Charles on natural
philosophy, of the excellence of whose experiments, and the clearness of
whose discourses, I hear a very favourable account.
The english, german, and italian languages, are taught by professors at
the different “lycées,” by particular subscription, and for moderate sums
in other places. In short, there is no literary pursuit, of any kind,
which any man, in any circumstances, may not cultivate with success at
Paris.
Fortitude is necessary to resist the opportunities of committing
crimes, if the individual be poor, and of falling into the temptations
of pleasure, if he happen to be rich. Guarded against these respective
evils, the industrious scholar, whether covered with rags, or “clad every
day in purple,” may move on in the career of letters with every possible
advantage, and with the certitude of, at last, obtaining the utmost
object of his wishes. If any equality exist in France, it is found in the
fount of knowledge, which literally
“⸺In patriam populumque fluxit.”
In addition to the opportunities afforded for literary improvement
already mentioned, the price of books is moderate; and “_cabinets
litéraires_” offer in every quarter of the town, and almost in every
street, newspapers, pamphlets, and periodical works.
Paris, however, does not possess many circulating libraries, and of the
few which exist, I can give no favourable account. Perhaps the facility
with which works of value are consulted, and the trifle for which those
of the day are bought, are the reasons of this deficiency. It is,
however, a considerable convenience wanting in so great a city; and I
think that such an establishment, on a liberal and extended scale, would
be a profitable and useful subject of speculation.
I have said nothing of “la Société des belles Lettres” of “_la Société
de Médecine_” of “_la Société d’Institution_,” &c. Were I to enumerate
all the useful establishments, both public and private, connected with
literature, my letter would soon be swelled into a volume, and that even
of no small dimensions. I shall, therefore, now conclude my account by
observing, that whatever are the particular objects, to which a studious
man wishes to direct his attention, “quod petit hic est,” he will find
here all the facilities which he can possibly desire for pursuing his
favourite science, with little or no expense and great advantage.
I am, &c.
LETTER XXXI.
Calculation and estimate of expenses at Paris.—List of hotels,
traiteurs, &c.
Paris, may the 12th, 1802, (22 floréal.)
MY DEAR SIR,
You know how much I dislike the petty detail of economical arrangements,
and will therefore pardon me for having so long delayed to speak to you
of the expenses and mode of living at Paris. I have not forgotten your
queries, and will, in this letter, endeavour to answer them as fully
as possible. You will, at least, derive one advantage from my apparent
neglect; that the information which I shall now send you, is not hastily
given, but the result of experience, gained during a residence of nearly
seven months.
Persons who have represented Paris (to use a vulgar phrase) as a cheap
place, have either been greatly deceived themselves, or have intended
purposely to deceive. The difference between the expense of living in
London and in Paris, appears to me infinitely less than it is generally
supposed. It is true, indeed, that a french family will apparently
support a much more elegant establishment on a given income, than an
english one can in London; but I believe the cause arises almost
entirely from the superiour economy and arrangement of the former, from
the sparing system observed in the interiour of private houses, and
from the constant and unvarying attention to the _minutiæ_ of every
disbursement. Though the table of a Parisian boasts, when company are
invited, every kind of luxury, yet I have reason to suspect, that, on
ordinary occasions, “le bouilli[87],” and “le vin ordinaire,” form its
principal support. A carriage, which has been in a family twenty or
thirty years, is treated with all the respect due to its antiquity, and
is seldom or ever discarded on account of its oldfashioned shape or faded
colour; and horses, used only now and then, may be fed on hay and straw.
Liveries are forbidden by the law; and servants are therefore permitted
to wait in the tattered garments which their present master has left off,
or in those which they have collected in a former service.
The drawing-rooms, and “_salles à manger_,” are lighted, even at the
largest assemblies, with oil, instead of wax; and antichambers and
staircases are so dark, that to find one’s way into the principal
apartment is generally a service of difficulty, if not of danger. As
to fire, on common occasions, one in the bed room either of “madame,”
or “monsieur,” is thought sufficient, with the addition of a “poële,”
or stove, which is so contrived, as to heat both the eating room, and
the antichamber, in which latter the servants always sit. In respect to
dress, an old great coat (or “riding coat,” as they call it) is often
worn in the house, by gentlemen, and the _belles_ who appear with the
greatest splendour in the evening, sometimes pass their morning in a
powdering gown, or “_robe de chambre_.”
The same kind of rigid economy is observed in their amusements. A family
of distinction will occupy a box “_au second_, or _au bagnoir_[88],” to
save a few _livres_; and I knew a young lady of considerable fortune,
who expressed an anxious wish to see the first appearance of _Vestris_,
and who, when a place was offered her, refused it, _malgré_ the general
passion for _spectacles_, and the celebrity of this, when she found that
the price of the ticket was nine francs (or seven and sixpence english).
I have entered into this explanation, to account for the apparently
splendid establishments of persons of moderate fortunes, which might
otherwise seem to contradict the opinion which I am about to give, and
which I have already hinted.
I repeat, then, that an english family settling here[89], with english
ideas and english habits, would spend very little less than they would do
in London, with a similar establishment.
To enable you to judge for yourself on this subject, I shall mention
the prices of the most essential articles of expense; some of which are
lower, while others are infinitely higher.
Meat is much cheaper, being only eleven or twelve sols per pound (or five
or six pence english).
Bread bears, at present, nearly the same price in the two countries.
The keep of horses costs infinitely less at Paris, than in London.
Poultry is cheaper; and wine of the best kind may be bought for something
more than we pay for good port.
On the other hand, house rent is equally dear, if not dearer. Furniture
is exorbitant; and dress of all kinds, both for men and women (only
excepting shoes and gloves) is, beyond comparison, dearer in price, and
more expensive in its kind.
The price of amusements, in the first places, is nearly the same at the
large theatres of Paris, as at those of London; and _spectacles_, being
infinitely more frequented at the former than in the latter city, much
more is spent, in this article, in the one than in the other capital.
Groceries are dearer, and fuel at least double. Putting these articles,
the one against the other, perhaps with economy eleven hundred pounds
in Paris might purchase as many conveniences as twelve in London. But I
think even this difference is liberally allowed.
Having given this rough calculation of family expenses, I shall proceed
to speak more particularly of those of a foreigner, or temporary
resident. On this point I can be more positive, having experience for my
guide.
A job carriage and pair of horses cost from twenty to twenty two louis
per month, according to the manner in which you are served. A pair of
horses, without the hire of a carriage, may be had for fifteen or sixteen
louis per month. In both cases the coachman is paid by the jobman; but
the former expects a trifle, as a mark of your approbation.
A “_laquais de place_” asks four, but will take three, livres (or half a
crown English) per day.