noblesse_, the governmental class, and _les parvenus ou
nouveaux riches_.—Description of a house belonging to one of
the latter.
Paris, november the 19th, 1801 (28th brumaire.)
MY DEAR SIR,
My two last letters were filled with details of pictures, statues,
pantomimes, and _fêtes_. In this, I shall only speak to you of men and
manners.
Visiting Paris after a revolution which has produced such extraordinary
alterations in the laws, customs, and opinions of the people, I expected
to find an equal change in the state of society. A great change has
certainly taken place, but the change is of a different nature from
what I foresaw. An english lady, of much wit, said to me the other day,
“When I arrived at Paris, I expected to meet with philosophers in every
society, and to hear nothing discussed but subjects of the highest
import. Alas! how have I been disappointed!” As to me, I entertained no
such idea; but I certainly supposed that the political events in which
every person had been forced, in one way or other, to act a part, would
have accustomed the minds of men to such a variance of opinion, that all
subjects would be canvassed with liberality, and that, whatever might be
the sentiments of an individual, he would be heard with tolerance.
The lady I have mentioned was not more mistaken than I have been.
There is no country under the sun, where less freedom is allowed in
conversation. I do not mean to say, that the government checks or
interferes with what passes in private society; on the contrary, I have
more than once heard in company remarks made at the expense of persons
in power, which even in England would be thought inflammatory: but what
I complain of is, that in every circle there is a certain creed, or
string of opinions, from which, if one of the company were to venture to
dissent, he would be considered as “_de mauvaise compagnie_[13].” These
opinions are not confined to the affairs of France, but extend themselves
to those of England; and in the societies where I have been thrown, I
have been more than once suspected of jacobinism, for not joining in a
philippic against Mr. Fox, or in an eulogy on lord Grenville.
As to society, it appears to me, that there are three great divisions,
or principal classes, at Paris. The first, in point of antiquity, and
perhaps still of public opinion (for, notwithstanding all the laws to the
contrary, family prejudices are as strong as ever in France), is that of
_l’ancienne noblesse_[14], who separate themselves almost entirely from
the other classes, and live together at the houses of such of their body,
as are still rich enough to give assemblies. The second, which I shall
call the governmental set, consists of the ministers, of the counsellors
of state, of the ambassadors, of the senators, legislators, tribunes, &c.
in short, of all the constituted authorities. The third class is what
the pride of the first denominates “les parvenus ou nouveaux riches;”
consisting of the wealthiest individuals now in France; of persons,
who, taking advantage of the circumstances which have occurred, have
enriched themselves during the general wreck of private fortunes and
public credit. Army contracts, national estates, and speculations in
the funds, have afforded the means, by which many of these individuals
have accumulated overgrown fortunes; but several respectable merchants,
bankers, and other commercial men, are unjustly confounded with these,
and, under the general name of “fournisseurs[15],” held up to public
contempt.
The first class are still affluent, when spoken of as a body, though
few of them have individually large incomes. A distinguished person,
connected with the government, and to whom the most important acts of
state have been specially entrusted, assures me, that the old proprietors
still hold two thirds of the landed estates of France; though, in
consequence of the heavy taxes[16] laid on them during the Revolution, by
the loss of their woods, of their feudal rights, and of public offices
which had become almost hereditary in their families, (not to mention
the present law of descent, by which all children inherit equally),
their incomes, though in different degrees, are, in every case, greatly
diminished.
Some of the old _noblesse_, notwithstanding their misfortunes, still
live with considerable splendour, and have houses “_bien montées_” in
which they give balls and parties. The most distinguished of these are
madame la ⸺ de ⸺, and madame ⸺, who have each an assembly once in every
week. A _ci-devant comtesse_, belonging to the society, requested the
permission of introducing to these houses an english lady, of whom it
will be sufficient to say, that though not of exalted rank, she was
unexceptionable in every respect, in birth, in character, in fortune, in
person, and in situation of life. I think you will be as much surprised,
and as much irritated, as I was, when I add, that this _mighty_ favour
was, in both instances, refused. The reason assigned for this strange
want of hospitality, has induced me to mention the fact. The lady in
question, having been accustomed to the highest circles in her own
country, and discovering, for the first time, in this land of “liberty
and equality,” the humble distance at which the wife of a commoner ought
to regard the chaste and learned festivals of aristocracy, could not help
expressing her surprise, if not her anger, to the french friend, who
had made the application. “Je suis bien fachée[17],” replied madame la
comtesse! “_mais pour vous dire la vérité_, the _emigrés_ were treated
with so little kindness in London, I mean, by the gentlemen and ladies
there (for there is no complaint against your government), that it is
impossible to persuade their relations to receive the english _chez
eux_[18]—_vraiment je suis au désespoir_.”
I am unwilling to think, that such is the general language of the body
of emigrants. I know, that there are amongst them men of nice honour,
of noble sentiments, and of dignified demeanour; and I have heard some
speak, as they ought, of the hospitality they experienced in England:
but if there be any who attempt to separate the british government from
the inhabitants of the country, I must beg leave to remind them, that
it was the english people, from whose pockets that money was drawn, by
which in their misfortunes, they were supported; and that, happily for
us, our government is so constructed, that unless the popular voice
had sanctioned the laudable humanity of government, not even Mr. Pitt
could have afforded them that assistance, which, in every instance, they
received from England. As to their reception by individuals in Great
Britain, I must be permitted to observe, that such of the emigrants
as dignified the poverty (into which they were cruelly thrown) by
the propriety of their conduct, found generally, if not universally,
that respect, to which their dreadful reverse of fortune, and their
honourable industry, equally entitled them. Those who sought in beggary,
in gambling, or in importunate solicitation, a dishonest and precarious
existence, ought not to complain of an exclusion from society, which
was alone produced by the impropriety of their own conduct. I hope the
complaints against english hospitality come from the latter class; if
so, the sensible and liberal french will know how to appreciate their
evidence. If from the former⸺but I will not put an hypothesis, which
would appear to doubt the gratitude of men, whose former lives entitle
them to esteem.
Begging your pardon for this digression, into which I was involuntarily
led, I return to the societies of Paris.
The second class, which I call the governmental, is the most polite to
strangers. The second consul has a splendid party every week; and each of
the ministers has a day, to which all foreigners may be taken by their
respective ministers, after they have been presented at the Thuilleries.
_Le Brun_, the third consul, frequently gives dinners; and english
parties, who have been invited, assure me, that they are particularly
pleasant. He is a man of great literary acquirements, and the
conversation, at his table generally takes a superiour turn.
The ministerial assemblies are crowded; but the houses are large, the
attendance good, and the uniforms of the constituted authorities, and the
full dress of the ambassadors, give, altogether, a splendour to these
meetings, which no others at Paris possess.
The third class—I mean, that of “_the parvenus_[19]”—if not the most
elegant, or the most esteemed, is, at least, the most luxurious. Nothing
can exceed the splendour of the persons of this description. The
furniture of their houses, the dress of their wives, their table, their
plate, their villas, in short, all the “_agrémens_” of life, are in the
highest style of oriental magnificence.
To give you some idea of their manner of living, I will describe to you
the house of madame ⸺, which I yesterday obtained the permission of
seeing, in her absence.
The house is situate in a street leading from the Boulevard, and is
approached by a fine court, of considerable length. The back of the house
looks on a very pretty garden, arranged _à l’angloise_. It was formerly
the residence of a minister of state.
The drawing room, and _salle à manger_[20], were not yet finished. The
furniture prepared for them was rich. I did not think it particularly
beautiful; but the bed room, and bathing cabinet, exceeded in luxury
every thing which I ever beheld, or even ventured to imagine. The canopy
of the bed was of the finest muslin, the covering of pink satin, the
frame of beautiful mahogany, supported by figures in gold of antique
shapes. The steps, which led to this delicious couch, were covered with
red velvet, ornamented on each side with artificial flowers, highly
scented. On one side stood, on a pedestal, a marble statue of Silence,
with this inscription:
“TUTATUR SOMNOS ET AMORES CONSCIA LECTI[21].”
On the other, a very lofty gold stand, for a taper or lamp. A fine mirror
filled up one side of the bed, and was reflected by one at the top,
and another at the opposite side of the room. The walls were covered
with mahogany, relieved with gold borders, and now and then with glass.
The whole in excellent taste. The bathing cabinet, which adjoined, was
equally luxurious. The bath, when not in use, forms a sofa, covered with
kerseymere edged with gold: and the whole of this cabinet is as pretty as
the bed room. Beyond this room is the bed chamber of _monsieur_, plain,
neat, and unaffected; and on the other side a little closet, covered
with green silk, and opening on the garden, in which _madame_ sits, when
she amuses herself with drawing. To conclude, I find the “loves,” which
“Silence guards,” and of which this paphian seat is the witness, are
those of January and May; for the wife is twenty (the greatest beauty of
Paris), and the husband something less than sixty.
I have made my letter of a most unpardonable length, and yet my subject
is not complete. I will, however, stop for the present, only requesting
your permission, when I have the opportunity, of adding such details,
as I may be able to collect, relative to the different societies I have
mentioned. Before I conclude, I ought, perhaps, to mention, that the
generals are seen both in the second and third classes, but rarely in the
first. Subalterns do not mix in society, at least, I have not yet met one
in company.
Adieu.
LETTER V.
Opening of the legislative body.—Election of the
president.—Lord Cornwallis.—Reflections of the people in the
gallery.
Paris, november the 23d, 1801 (2 frimaire).
MY DEAR SIR,
Yesterday being the first of “frimaire,” the day on which, by the present
constitution, the legislature and tribunate begin their session, I
determined to attend the opening of the former.
As I was not acquainted with any of the members, I was obliged, by
means of a _silver ticket_, to seek admittance in one of the galleries
devoted to the public. The legislative body holds its sittings in the
beautiful palace, now called by its name, but better known by its
former one, of _Palais Bourbon_. It is situate in the _Fauxbourg St.
Germain_, immediately fronting _le pont Louis XVI_, and opposite the
_Champs Elisées_. The hall, in which the members assemble, is a very fine
room, in which the council of five hundred sat during the directorial
government. It is large, of an octagon shape, and would be admirably
suited to the purpose, for which it is used, did not its extreme height
and arched roof prevent even the strongest voice from being distinctly
heard. To remedy this defect, green baize is suspended on several parts
of the wall; but the evil is but little removed by this precaution.
The first thing which attracted my attention, was the military parade,
in which the members entered the room, and the regimental _costume_,
in which they were dressed. Drums and fifes announced their approach;
and a guard of honour (for both the corps législatif and the tribunate
have each a regiment) preceded them. The members wear a uniform of blue
cloth, embroidered with gold, a tricoloured sash, hussar boots, and
a cocked hat, both laced with gold. To an english eye, they had more
the appearance of naval officers than of legislators. The meeting was
opened by the minister of the _interieur_, who ascending the tribune
(or rostrum,) congratulated in a short speech, the corps législatif on
commencing its session, at a moment when the restoration of peace with
all the world confirmed the victories, and completed the happiness of
the republic. The eldest member then took the chair, and declared the
meeting legally constituted. They next proceeded to choose a president.
Scrutineers were appointed to examine the votes, which were given in the
following manner: The names of the members were alphabetically called
over, and each in his turn placed a written paper, containing the name
of the person whom he chose into one of four vases, which were placed on
the table for that purpose. When all the members had voted, the four
vases were placed on as many different tables, and each examined by an
equal number of scrutineers. These counted the votes, and conveyed the
result to the temporary president, who, after comparing them together,
declared that _Dupuis_, having an absolute majority of 133 voices, was
duly elected. The former then left the _fauteuil_[22], to which the
latter was instantly conducted. On taking the chair, Dupuis ordered
messages to be sent to the consuls and tribunate, acquainting them, that
the _corps législatif_ was definitively constituted, and was ready to
receive the messengers of the government. He then drew from his pocket a
written paper, and read a speech, in which he congratulated the meeting
on the happy auspices under which it began its session. He had scarcely
finished, when the sound of drum and fife announced the arrival of three
counsellors of state, with a message from the government. They were
preceded by _huissiers_, or ushers, in Spanish hats, with three plumes of
different colours, and were dressed themselves in their _grand costume_
of scarlet cloth, embroidered with silk of the same colour. One of them
then ascended the rostrum, and read a short speech, declaring what the
consuls had done, and what still further they proposed. He congratulated
the legislature on the peace, and reminded the members, that the war
being now over, they could devote their whole time to the happiness and
tranquillity of the people. He concluded with complimenting the assembly
on the conduct which they had pursued in their last session, and which,
he said, they would doubtless continue in that which was now begun. The
president assured him, in reply, that the legislative body would, on all
occasions, be ready to assist the views of government in promoting the
glory, the peace, and the happiness of the nation.
The counsellors of state then retired, and the president read the
_procès-verbal_ of the proceedings and appointments of the _sénat
conservateur_, as likewise several letters; some from members, with
excuses for nonattendance; others with resignations; and some from
authors, presenting books, almanacks, &c. to the legislature. The title
of one dedication entertained me not a little. It was addressed, “_Au
Corps Législatif, au premier Consul_, et à madame Bonaparte[23].” We
may conclude, that the writer was at once a republican and a courtier.
Inconsistencies are often reconciled in France.
After these letters had been read, the meeting was closed. The austrian,
english, swedish, and other ambassadors, were present, in a box
appropriated to their use. The venerable appearance and military dress of
my lord Cornwallis delighted the parisians; and my national vanity was
not a little gratified, by the favourable comparison which the people
around me drew between his lordship and the other foreign ministers.
“_Oui, oui, ce grand est milord Cornvalis. Il a bonne mine. Il a l’air
militaire. Il a servi, n’est il pas vrai, monsieur? C’est un galant
homme, regardez ce petit à côtè, quelle différence! quelle mauvaise
tournure, &c[24]._”
I believe, indeed, that, on every account, we have reason to be satisfied
with the choice which our government has made of the noble marquis. While
in exteriors he satisfies the curiosity of the french, and the pride
of the english, he gives, by the respectability of his character, the
dignity of his deportment, and the known moderation of his principles,
the surest pledge of the pacific intentions of the sovereign, whom he so
worthily represents.
Before I conclude this long account, I must mention, with regret, that
the persons in the gallery where I sat, spoke with the most sovereign
contempt of the legislative body. “Ils font bien[25],” said one man,
alluding to the boots, which constitute part of their dress; “de porter
des bottes. C’est un habit de voyage—ils ne resteront pas ici long
temps.”—“_Nous les payons 10,000 francs_[26],” said another, “_pour ne
faire rien, je suis étonné que Bonaparte ne se débarasse pas de ces gens
là._”—“_Je crois bien_,” cried a third, addressing himself to me, “_que
monsieur votre ambassadeur a un revenu à lui plus grand, que celui de
tous ces gaillards ensemble. Sans leur traitement de législateur ils
mouraient de faim[27]._”
It is contrary to my plan to enter on any political subjects, or
the strange levity of these remarks would lead to some very serious
reflections. I only give you this _chit chat_ of the _peuple
souverain_[28], as characteristic of the french, and of the present order
of public affairs.
I am, &c.
LETTER VI.
The abbé Sicard, and the institution in behalf of the deaf and
dumb.—His favourite pupil, Massieu.—Examination of a young
woman, who had become deaf at six years old.—Reflections on the
establishment.
Paris, december the 1st, 1801 (10 frimaire.)
MY DEAR SIR,
I had this morning so high a mental treat, that I cannot help
communicating to you the particulars without delay, in the hope of being
able, while my mind is strongly impressed with the subject, to convey to
you some faint idea of the pleasure which I received.
I shall not now speak to you of splendid buildings, of glorious monuments
of human ingenuity, of renowned heroes, or of brilliant festivals. What
I saw to day interested me, and I am sure would have interested you,
much more than all such objects united; I mean, the _institution des
sourd-muets_ (that humane establishment for the instruction of the deaf
and dumb), first founded under the care of the abbé l’Epée, and now
conducted by his worthy successor, the abbé Sicard.
Having tickets offered me for an extraordinary meeting, which took place
this morning, I willingly availed myself of the opportunity, and at ten
o’clock repaired to _la rue St. Jacques_, where, in a former convent,
this beneficent establishment is carried on. Here I found a large
assemblage of respectable persons, who all listened, with pleasure and
attention, to the simple, plain, and unaffected manner, in which the abbé
Sicard explained his method of giving to the deaf and dumb the means of
expressing their thoughts. “As foreigners,” said he, “unacquainted with
the language of the country which they visit, are supposed stupid and
ignorant by the uninformed, so the deaf and dumb are often considered as
idiots, because they are deprived of one sense. No,” continued he, “they
are not idiots; they have ideas as well as you, and only want an organ to
express them.” He then went on to state, that in most educations children
are taught first to speak, and then, _sometimes_, to think; whereas,
in his plan, he began first by teaching his pupils to think, and then
proceeded to instruct them how to express what they had so thought[29].
To exemplify both his plan and his success, he examined Massieu, his
favourite and ablest pupil, a young man, about twenty or twenty five
years old. As soon as the abbé expressed, by his gestures, any particular
passion, Massieu instantly wrote the word appropriate to the peculiar
feeling, and then explained the meaning of the word he had written, with
a vivacity of action, and a variety of countenance, which I never before
witnessed in any human being. He next wrote on the wall, with great
rapidity, the chain of ideas, by which the abbé Sicard regularly advances
his scholars, from the expression of a simple thought, to one of greater
import. Thus, beginning with the word “voir,” to see, he ended, going on
by regular steps, with the word “examiner,” to examine; beginning with
“idéer,” (a word created by Massieu, but answering to “_avoir idée_,”
or to have an idea), he ended with “approfondir,” to search into; and
beginning with “vouloir,” to will, he ended with “brûler,” to burn with
passion. Massieu expressed, with wonderful fire, the meaning of each
progressive passion, in the changes of his countenance, which, when
animated, is uncommonly fine.
In the course of this meeting, the _abbé Sicard_ likewise examined, for
the first time, a young woman, now eighteen, who, at six years old,
had become entirely deaf, and who could now only speak such words as
she had learnt at that tender age, many of which she still pronounced
imperfectly, and as children are apt to do. He began with showing us a
memorandum, or washing bill, in which this girl had drawn her gowns,
petticoats, &c. according to the different forms of these articles.
Massieu then, by direction of the _abbé_, drew on the wall different
things of common use; to some of these she applied their proper names,
some she did not know, and others she mispronounced. The latter defect
M. Sicard immediately removed, by pronouncing the word himself, teaching
her by signs to move her lips, as he did, by blowing on the hand, and
by touching some particular fibres of the arm. I cannot satisfactorily
explain this operation; but it will, perhaps, be sufficient to observe,
that the _abbé_, more than once, said, “by such and such motions, I will
produce such and such sounds;” and that, as soon as the girl had imitated
the motions he made, she articulated the words, as he had previously
promised.
The more I saw of this institution, the more was I delighted. There were
forty or fifty children present, who, born deaf and dumb, were, by the
wonderful skill and unceasing care of the respectable _abbé_, restored
to society, to happiness, and themselves. They were seated in different
parts of the room, and conversed with each other, though at the greatest
distance, by the means of their fingers, which were in constant motion.
They had every appearance of enjoying good health, spirits, and vivacity.
There are all kinds of workshops, manufactures, and schools, in the house
of the _sourd-muets_, and the establishment is entirely maintained at the
expense of the government. Massieu, I hear, has displayed strong symptoms
of genius, and has even written some very beautiful verses.