CHAPTER III.

AVEBURY AND STONEHENGE.

If there existed any acknowledged facts or accepted data with regard to

the megalithic remains we are now treating of, the logical method of

following out the subject would be to describe first their geographical

distribution, and then their uses and dates. While, however, everything

concerning them is considered as uncertain--in fact, as unknown, such

a mode of treatment, though satisfactory to believers, would fail

to carry conviction to the minds of those who doubt. It appears,

therefore, that under the circumstances a preferable mode will be to

take three or four of the principal and best known British groups,

and to subject them to a tolerably exhaustive examination. If it is

possible to dispel the errors that have grown up around them, and to

fix their uses and dates on anything like a reasonable basis, the

rest will be easy; but so long as men believe in Druids or Dragons,

or even think it necessary to relegate these monuments to prehistoric

antiquity, it is useless to reason regarding them. By the process it

is proposed to follow, it is hoped at least to be able to dispel these

mists. Others must judge whether the landscape their dispersion will

reveal is either real, or pleasing to contemplate.

The first monument we propose selecting for examination is Avebury,

as the largest, and in some respects the most important of the class

in this country. Stonehenge might at first sight seem to have equal

claims to precedence, but it is exceptional. It is the only hewn stone

monument we possess, the only one where trilithons are found with

horizontal architraves, and where the outer circle also possesses

these imposts. It is, in fact, the megalithic monument which exhibits

the most civilized forms, and to prove its age and use would not

necessarily prove those of any rude stone monument found elsewhere.

Avebury, on the contrary, though larger than the others, is constructed

on precisely the same principle. It has the enclosing vallum, with its

ditch inside, like Arborlow, Marden, Arthur's round table, at Penrith,

and others we shall meet with further on, while its circle and avenues

are identical, as far as we can judge, with numerous examples found

elsewhere.

Before, however, proceeding to reason about Avebury, the first point

is to ascertain what the group really consists of, which is a much

more difficult task than would at first sight appear. Stukeley has

introduced so many of his own fancies into his description of the

place, and they have been so implicitly followed by all who have since

written on the subject, that it is now no easy task to get back to the

original form.

[Illustration: 14. View of Avebury restored. _a._ Silbury Hill. _b._

Waden Hill.]

The principal monument at Avebury consists of a vallum of earth nearly,

but not quite, circular in form, with an average diameter of about

1200 feet. Close on the edge of its internal ditch stood a circle

apparently originally consisting of about 100 stones, with a distance

consequently of about 33 feet from centre to centre. Inside this were

two other double circles, placed not in the axis of the great one,

but on its north-eastern side. The more northern one was apparently

350 feet in diameter, the other 325 feet.[77] In the centre of the

northern one stood what is here called a cove, apparently consisting

of three upright stones supporting a cap-stone--a dolmen, in fact,

such as we shall frequently meet with in the following pages. In the

southern circle there was only one stone obelisk or menhir. These facts

we gather from Stukeley and Colt Hoare, for all is now so completely

ruined and destroyed, that without their description no one could now

make even an approximate plan of the place. The stones that comprise

these inner as well as the outer circle are all the native Sarsens,

which occur everywhere on these downs. In some places, such as Clatford

Bottom, about a mile from Avebury, they lie still in numbers sufficient

to erect a dozen Aveburys, and many are still to be seen in the Bottoms

to the southward, and indeed in every place where they have not been

utilized by modern civilization. No mark of a chisel is to be seen

on any of the stones now standing here. For their effect they depend

wholly on their mass, and that is so great as to produce an impression

of power and grandeur which few of the more elaborate works of men's

hands can rival.

[Illustration: 15. Plan of Avebury Circle and Kennet Avenue, from Sir

R. Colt Hoare.]

From the outer vallum a stone avenue extended in a perfectly straight

line for about 1430 yards, in a south-easterly direction. The centre

was apparently drawn from the centre of the great 1200 feet circle,

not from those of the smaller ones. This is called the Kennet

Avenue, from its pointing towards the village of that name. I am

extremely sceptical with regard to the existence of another, called

the Beckhampton Avenue, on which Dr. Stukeley lays so much stress.

Aubrey did not see it, though he saw the Long Stone Cove, the "Devil's

Quoits," as he called them; and Stukeley is obliged to admit that in

his day not one stone was standing.[78] It seems that here, as, indeed,

everywhere over this country, a number of Sarsen stones were lying

about, and his fertile imagination manufactured them into the body of a

snake. None, however, are shown in Sir R. Colt Hoare's survey, and none

exist now; and beyond the Cove even Stukeley admits that he drew the

serpent's tail only because a serpent must have a termination of that

sort. There were no stones to mark its form any more then than now. The

first objection that appears against admitting the existence of the

very hypothetical avenue is, that no curved avenue of any sort is known

to exist anywhere, or attached to any monuments. All the curves of the

Kennet avenue are the Doctor's own, introduced by him to connect the

straight-lined avenues which were drawn from the circle at Avebury, and

that on Hakpen Hill. There are none at Stanton Drew, or other places

where he audaciously drew them. Near the church there are, or were,

two stones placed in the opening like that called the Friar's Heel,

and the prostrate stone at Stonehenge, but these are all that probably

ever existed of the Beckhampton Avenue. The question is not, however,

important. As there were two circles inside the Avebury vallum, there

may have been two avenues. All that is here contended for is, that

there is no proof of the existence of the second. A dolmen, called the

Long Stone Cove, existed near where Stukeley draws its sinuous line,

but there is nothing to show that it ever formed any part of such an

alignment; and around it there were some standing stones, or rather,

even in Stukeley's time, stones which apparently had stood, but there

is nothing to show whether forming part of a circle, or as detached

menhirs, or as parts of an avenue.

The second member of the Avebury group is the double circle, or rather

double oval, on Hakpen hill--Haca's Pen;[79] this was, according to

Stukeley, 138 feet by 155 feet, and had an avenue 45 feet wide, as

compared with 51 feet which Sir R. C. Hoare gives for those of the

Kennet avenue of Avebury. The avenue is supposed to have extended in

a perfectly straight line for above a quarter of a mile, pointing

directly towards Silbury Hill, which is about one mile and a quarter

distant.

The third member of the group is the famous Silbury Hill, about a mile

distant due south from Avebury. That these two last named are of the

same age, and part of one design, seems scarcely open to doubt; but it

is quite an open question whether Haca's Pen belongs either to the same

age or the same design. Its stones were very much smaller, its form

different, and its avenue pointing towards Silbury looks as if that

monument existed, and may have long existed before it was built; but of

this hereafter.

Besides these three there are numerous barrows, both long and round, in

the neighbourhood, and British forts and villages; but these we propose

to pass over at present, confining our attention in the first instance

to the three monuments above enumerated.

The first question that arises on looking at such a structure as

Avebury, is whether it is a temple at all. It has already been

attempted in the preceding pages to show what the temples of Britain

were in the ages immediately succeeding the Roman occupation; but even

if it is conceded that they were small basilicas, it will be contended

that this is no answer to the question. If Avebury, it will be said,

is a temple, it belonged to a mysterious, mythical, prehistoric people

capable of executing such wonderful works before they came in contact

with the Romans, but who, strange to say, were incapable of doing

anything after the civilizing touch of that great people had left them

feebler, and more ignorant than they were before!

If this question, What is Avebury? is addressed to one--brought up in

the Druidical faith as most Englishmen have been--he at once answers,

It is a temple of the Druids. If pressed and reminded of the groves

and the oaks these sectaries delighted in, he will perhaps admit

that no soil is so little likely to grow oaks as the chalk downs of

Wiltshire, and that there is no proof that any oaks ever grew in the

neighbourhood. But this is not a complete answer, for it may be

contended that for some reason we cannot comprehend, the Druids may

have dispensed with trees on this occasion. The real difficulty is, as

before mentioned, that no stones or stone structures are ever mentioned

in connection with Druids.

If an educated man whose mind is free from prejudice or pre-conceived

ideas is asked the question, he runs over in his own mind what he knows

of the temples of other peoples--Egypt, Assyria, Greece, Rome, in the

ancient or the middle ages. They produced nothing of the sort. Persia,

India, China, or the countries in the Eastern seas are all equally

unsuggestive; nor will Mexico or Peru help him. The first conclusion,

therefore, that he inevitably arrives at is, if these were the temples

of the Britons, they must indeed have been a "Peculiar people," unlike

any other race that lived at any time in any part of the world.

If they were temples, to what god or gods were they dedicated? It

could hardly have been Mercury, or Apollo, or Mars, Jove, or Minerva,

mentioned by Cæsar,[80] as the gods worshipped by the Druids--and

though perhaps these were only the nearest synonyms of Roman gods

applied to Celtic divinities, still there must have been such

resemblances as to have justified these appellations. We know of what

form the temples of these gods were, and certainly they were not built

after the fashion of the circles at Avebury. Some antiquaries have

timidly suggested a dedication to the Sun. But there is certainly no

passage in any author, classical or mediæval, which would lead us to

suppose that our forefathers were addicted to the worship of a deity so

unlikely to be a favourite in such a climate as ours. But again, what

is a sun temple? Does one exist anywhere? Had the Wiltshire shepherds

attempted it, they probably would have found the same difficulty that

beset the fire-worshipping Persians of old. It is not easy to get the

sun into a temple fashioned by human hands, and his rays are far more

available on high places or on the sea-shore than inside walls or

enclosures of any sort.

Even putting aside the question to what god it was dedicated, what

kind of worship could be performed in such a place? It could not be

for speaking in. Our largest cathedrals are 600 feet long, and no man

would attempt from the altar of the lady chapel to address a crowd

beyond the west door; still less would he in the open air attempt to

address a crowd in a circle 1200 feet in diameter, and where from the

nature of the arrangements one half of the audience must be behind him.

Still less is it fitted for seeing. The floor of the area is perfectly

flat, and though people talk loosely of the crowd that could stand on

the vallum, or on the berm, or narrow ledge between the internal ditch

and the foot of the rampart, they forget that only one row of persons

could stand on a sharp-pointed mound, and that the berm is on the same

level as the rest of the floor, and is the last place any one would

choose, as 100 great stones were put up in front of it as if especially

designed to obstruct the view. This was, in fact, the case with all the

stones. Assuming the ceremony or action to take place in the centre

of either of the two inner circles, the double row of stones which

surround them is so placed as to obstruct the view in every direction

to the utmost possible extent. It may be suggested that the priest

might climb on to the cap-stone of the cove, in the northern circle,

and there perform his sacrifice in sight of the assembled multitude. It

would be difficult to conceive any place so ill suited for the purpose;

and even then, how would he manage on the point of the obelisk in the

centre of the southern circle? No place, in fact, can be so ill adapted

for either seeing or hearing as Avebury; and those who erected it would

have been below the capacity of ordinary idiots if they designed it for

either purpose. Besides this, it has none of the ordinary adjuncts of a

temple. There is no sanctuary, no altar, no ark, no procession path, no

priests' house, nothing that is found more or less prominently forming

a part of every temple in every part of the world.

Why so hypæthral? Are we to understand that the climate of the

Wiltshire downs is so perfect and equable that men can afford to

dispense with roofs or the ordinary protection against weather? or are

we to assume that the men who could move these masses of stone and

raise these mounds were such utter savages that they could not erect an

enclosed building of any sort?

Egypt possesses the finest and most equable climate in the world;

yet all her temples are roofed in a more careful manner and more

stately than our mediæval cathedrals, and so are all those of India

and the Eastern climes where shelter is far less wanted than here.

In all these countries and climes the temples of the gods are the

dwellings or halls of men, enlarged and improved. What they did well

for themselves, they did better for their deities. Are men therefore to

assume that the Wiltshire shepherd slept on the snow in winter, with

no other protection than a circle of widely spaced stones, and had no

idea of a roof? Yet, if he were not hardened by some such process, it

is difficult to see why he should build a temple so exposed to the

inclemency of the weather that no ceremony could be properly performed

in it for one half of the days of the year.

Another objection to the temple theory that would strike most people,

if they would think about it, is the enormous size of Avebury. Its area

is at least five times that of St. Peter's at Rome; 250,000 people

could easily be seated within its vallum, and half a million could

stand. Men generally try to adapt the size of their buildings to the

amount of accommodation required. But where should such a multitude

as this come from? How could they be fed? How could they be lodged?

There is no reason to suppose that in any ancient time before the

introduction of agriculture, the pastoral population on these downs

could ever have been greater than, or so great as, that which now

exists there. When Doomsday Book was compiled, there were only two

hides of arable land in the manor, and they seem to have belonged to

the church. A fair inference from which seems to be that, but for the

superior knowledge and influence of the priesthood, the inhabitants of

these downs might, in the eleventh century, have remained in the same

state of pastoral barbarity in which there is every reason to believe

they were sunk in pagan times. How a few shepherds, sparsely scattered

over these plains, could have erected or have required such a temple as

this, is the mystery that requires to be explained. A very small parish

church now suffices for their spiritual wants; and if 10,000 pilgrims,

even at the present day, when agriculture has been extended to every

available patch of ground, visited the place for a week, many of them

would be starving before it was over.

It would be easy to adduce fifty other arguments of this sort. Many

more must indeed occur to any one who will give himself the trouble

to think of the matter; but to those who are accustomed to such

investigations the two most convincing probably are, first, that there

is no evidence whatever of progress in the design of Avebury. It was

built and finished as first designed. The second is, that in it there

is a total absence of ornament. In India, we have temples as big as

Avebury; but their history is written on their faces. The first step in

the process is generally that a small shrine, with a narrow enclosure

and small gateway, becomes from some cause or other, sacred or rich,

and a second enclosure is added to contain halls for the reception of

pilgrims or the ceremonial display on festal occasions. But no god in

that pantheon can live alone. New shrines are added for other deities,

with new halls, new residences for priests, and more accommodation for

all the thousand and one requisites of a great idol establishment. This

requires a third or fourth new enclosure, up even to a seventh, as at

Seringham. But in all this there is progress: 200 or 300 years are

required, and each century--sometimes each decade--leaves its easily

recognised mark as the work progresses. In like manner, the great

temple at Karnac, though covering only one-third the area of Avebury,

took the Egyptians three centuries to build, and every step of its

progress can be easily traced. The works of the earlier Thotmes differ

essentially from those of Manepthah and Rameses, and theirs again from

those of Seshonk; and these again differ essentially from the little

shrine of Osortasen, which was the germ of the whole.

So it was with all our cathedrals. The small Saxon church was

superseded by the Norman nave with a small apsidal choir. This was

enlarged into the Early English presbytery, and beyond this grew

the lady chapel, and as the ill-built Norman work decayed, it was

replaced by Tudor constructions. But there is nothing of the sort at

Avebury. Had the temple been built or begun by the sparse inhabitants

of these downs, we should have seen something to show where the work

began. They must have brought one stone one year and another the

next, and inevitably they would have employed their leisure hours,

like the inhabitants of Easter Island, in carving these stones either

with ornaments or symbols, or fashioning them into idols. There is

absolutely no instance in the whole world where some evidence of care

and of a desire after ornament of some sort is not to be traced in

the temples of the people. Nothing, however, of the sort occurs here.

Indeed, if there is one thing more evident than another about Avebury,

it is that, as it was begun, so it was ended. There is no hesitation,

no sign of change: the same men, to all appearance, who traced its plan

saw its completion; and as they designed it, so they left it. There is

no sign of any human hand having touched it from that hour henceforward

till the sordid greed of modern farmers set to work to destroy it,

to build with its materials the alehouse and the village which now

occupies a small portion of the enclosure.

So too with regard to ornament. This structure, we may fairly assume,

if a temple, must have been in use for some centuries; but during that

time, or any shorter time that may be assumed, no man had the skill

or the inclination to adorn the greatest temple of his native land

either with carving or emblems or ornament of any kind. The men who

could conceive the great design--so great and noble--could do nothing

more. Their hands drooped in listless idleness by their sides, and they

were incapable of further exertion! Such a state of affairs, if not

impossible, is certainly unparalleled. No such example exists anywhere

else with reference to any temple, so far as we know, in any part of

the world. Tombs do show these peculiarities at times, temples never.

If these reasons are sufficient to prove that Avebury was not a temple,

there are more than can be required, to show that it was not a place

of meeting of ancient Britons. Whatever may be thought of the extent

of prehistoric assemblies, it will hardly be contended that it was

necessary to provide accommodation for the 250,000 men who could be

seated in the great circle. Even supposing it were intended only to

accommodate 12,000 or 13,000 lords and as many commons in the two

subordinate rings, they would hardly have arranged an inner circle

of great stones in the middle of each assembly, or placed a spiked

obelisk for a woolsack in the one or a tall dolmen under or behind

the Speaker's chair in the other. Nothing in fact could be conceived

so utterly unsuited for the purpose as these rings, and unless these

primeval men were very differently constituted from ourselves, any

assembly of elder-men who were likely to meet at Avebury would have

preferred a room however rude, and of one-hundredth part of the extent,

for their deliberations to the unsheltered and unsuitable magnificence

of the Big Stones. Of course, among all rude people, and often also

among those more civilized, open-air assemblies of the people will

take place; but then these will always be near the great centres

of population. Men will go into the desert for religious purposes,

but they prefer talking politics nearer home. In some communities a

Campus Martius or a Thing field may be set apart for the purpose;

but the first requisite of such a place of assembly is that it shall

be open and free from encumbrance of any sort. A Mote hill too, like

the terraced Tynwald Mount in the Isle of Man, is an intelligible

arrangement, not for a deliberative assembly, but as a rostrum from

which to proclaim law. We can also understand why Shire courts should

be held on barrows, as seems often to have been the case. For here

the judge occupied a dignified position on the summit. His assessors

stood behind him, and the pleaders and people in front. Instances

are also known in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries where local

courts were summoned to meet at the "standing stones," or in circles,

in Scotland at least;[81] but in all these instances it was apparently

to settle territorial disputes on the spot, and the stones or mounds

were merely indicated as well-known marks and, consequently, convenient

trysting-places. Even if this were not so, it would not be at all to

be wondered at that in the middle ages sepulchral circles or mounds

were habitually used as meeting-places. They were then old enough

to be venerable; and their antiquity must have conferred on them a

dignity suitable to the purpose, whatever their original destination

may have been. But all this is very different from erecting as a place

of assembly so huge and inconvenient a place as Avebury is, and always

must have been.

It seems needless to follow this line of argument further, for unless

it can be shown that the people who erected Avebury were so differently

constituted from ourselves that no reasoning derived from our

experience can be applied to them, the answer seems inevitable.

That no such Temple, nor has any such meeting-place, been built or

attempted by any set of men in any part of the world. But is there

any reason for supposing that the inhabitants of these downs differed

so essentially from ourselves? Dr. Thurnam has examined with care

some hundreds of skulls gathered from the grave-mounds in this

neighbourhood, and has published decades on decades of them.[82]

Yet the most learned craniologists cannot detect--except perhaps in

degree--any difference that would lead us to suppose that these ancient

men were not actuated by the same motives and governed by the same

moral influences as ourselves. If this is so, Avebury certainly was not

erected either as a temple or a place of assembly, in any sense of the

word which we can understand, and those who insist that it was either

are bound to explain what the motives or objects could have been which

induced the inhabitants of the Wiltshire downs to act in a manner so

entirely opposed to all we know of the actions or feelings of all other

nations in all other parts of the world.

* * * * *

If, therefore, Avebury was neither a temple nor a place of assembly,

what was it? The answer does not seem far to seek. It must have been

a burying-place, but still not a cemetery in the ordinary sense of

the term. The inhabitants of these downs could never have required a

bigger and more magnificent burying-place than any other community in

Great Britain, and must always have been quite unequal to raise such

a monument. But what is more important than this, a cemetery implies

succession in time and gradations in rank, and this is exactly what

is most conspicuously wanting at Avebury. It may be the monument of

one king or two kings, but it is not a collection of the monuments of

individuals of various classes in life, or of a series of individuals

of the same rank, erected at different intervals of time. As before

remarked, it is in one design--"totus teres atque rotundus," erected

with no hesitation and no shadow of change.

If, however, we assume that Avebury was the burying-place of those who

fell in a great battle fought on the spot, every difficulty seems

at once to vanish. It is now admitted that men did bury in stone

circles or under dolmens, and beside head-stones and within earthen

enclosures, and what we find here differs only in degree from what we

find elsewhere. It seems just such a monument as a victorious army of

say 10,000 men could, with their prisoners, erect in a week. The earth

is light, and could easily be thrown up into the form of the vallum,

and the Sarsen stones lay all over the downs, and all on a higher

level than Avebury, which perhaps for that very reason is placed on

the lowest spot of ground in the neighbourhood. With a few rollers and

ropes, 10,000 men would very soon collect all the stones that ever

stood there, and stick them up on their ends. They probably would have

no skilled labour in their ranks, and no leisure, if they had, to

employ it in ornamentation of any sort. Without this, it is just such a

monument as might and would be raised by an illiterate army wishing to

bury with honour those who had fallen in the fight, and having at the

same time no other means of leaving on the spot a record of their own

victory.

On theoretical grounds, there seems to be no argument that can be urged

against this view; and during the ten years that it has been constantly

before the public none have been brought forward that deserve notice.

It is urged, however, that the evidence is not complete, and that

nothing written serves to confirm this view. Those who make the

objection forget that one of the first conditions of the problem is

that those who erected such a monument should be illiterate. If they

could have written to any primeval 'Times,' they would not have taken

such pains to lithograph their victory on the spot. Had they been able

either to read or write, an inscription would have done more than the

200 or 300 stones of Avebury; but because they could not write, they

raised them, and, for that reason also, left us the problem of finding

out why they did so.

We are not, however, wholly without evidence on this subject. Many

years ago Mr. Kemble printed a charter of King Athelstan, dated in 939,

which, describing the boundaries of the manor of Overton, in which

Avebury is situated, makes use of the following expression:--"Then by

Collas barrow, as far as the broad road to Hackpen, thence northward up

along the Stone row, thence to the burying-places."[83] It does not

seem to be a matter of doubt that the stone row here mentioned is the

Kennet Avenue, nor that the burying-places (byrgelsas) are the Avebury

rings; but it may be urged that the Saxon surveyor did not know what

he was talking about; and as, unfortunately, he does not say who were

buried there, and gives no corroborative evidence, all we learn from

this is that they were so considered in the tenth century.

Something more tangible was nearly obtained shortly before Stukeley's

time, when Lord Stawell levelled the vallum next the church, where

the great barn now stands. The original surface of the ground was

"easily distinguishable by a black stratum of mould on the chalk. Here

they found large quantities of buck-horns, bones, oyster-shells, and

wood-coals. An old man who was employed on the work says there was a

quantity of a cartload of horns, that they were very rotten, and that

there were very many burned bones among them."[84] On the same page,

Dr. Stukeley adds: "Besides some Roman coins accidentally found in and

about Abury, I was informed that a square bit of iron was taken up

under one of the great stones upon pulling it down." Other Roman coins

have, I understand, been found there since, but there is no authentic

record of the fact which can be quoted. This is to be regretted; for

the presence, if ascertained, of these coins would go far to prove that

the erection of the monument was after their date, whatever that may be.

Unfortunately no scientific man saw these bones, so no one was able

to say whether they were human or not; but the presumption is that

they were, for why should burned bones of animals be placed in such

a situation? The answer to this is that the Wiltshire Archæological

Society have made some excavations at Avebury, and found nothing. In

1865, they tapped the vallum in various places, and dug one trench to

its centre, and, as they found nothing, concluded that nothing was

to be found. But in a mound 4442 feet long, according to Sir R. Colt

Hoare, there must be many vacant spots, especially if the bodies were

burnt; and such negative evidence cannot be considered as conclusive,

nor as sufficient to disprove the evidence acquired in Lord Stawell's

diggings. Stukeley's honesty in recording facts of this sort is hardly

to be suspected, though the inferences he draws from his facts are

generally to be received with the extremest caution. The Society also

dug in the centre of the northern circle, where the dolmen stood,

and penetrated to the original chalk, but found nothing except the

ruins of the stones which had been destroyed by fire, and express

great disappointment at finding "no human bones whatever."[85] If the

bodies were burnt--as we should be led to infer from what Lord Stawell

found under the vallum--what they probably would have found, had the

"Cove" been complete, would have been a vase or urn with ashes. The

barbarians who destroyed the stones are scarcely likely to have spared

so worthless a piece of crockery; and if it were broken at the time,

it would be in vain a hundred years afterwards to look either for it

or for bones that in all probability were never laid there. Nor need

better results have been expected from their trench, 60 feet long. A

man must know very exactly what he is looking for, and where to look

for it, who expects to find an object like an urn, a foot in diameter,

in a 28-acre field. Judging from the experience obtained at Crichie, in

Scotland, where a funereal deposit was obtained at the foot of every

one of a circle of stones that stood inside a ditch like the internal

one at Avebury, it is there we should expect to find the deposit.[86]

That is just where nobody has thought of looking at Avebury, though

nothing would be easier. There are fifty or sixty empty holes, and any

one might without difficulty be enlarged, and if there were a deposit

at the foot of each, it would then inevitably be found.

* * * * *

To this we shall return presently. Meanwhile let us see what evidence,

if any, is to be obtained from the circle on Hakpen Hill.

As before mentioned, this monument consists of two ovals, according to

Dr. Stukeley the outer one was 138 by 155 feet and the inner 45 by 51

feet. He does not give the dimensions of the stones; but Aubrey calls

them from 4 to 5 feet in height, which is confirmed by the Doctor's

engraving; and, altogether, they do not seem to average one-quarter the

size of those at Avebury. Of the avenue, only four stones are shown in

the plan woodcut (No. 16), and the same number is shown in the view

(plate xxi.). In both instances, the avenue is represented as perfectly

straight, and as trending rather to the southward of Silbury Hill.[87]

It extended, according to Aubrey, a quarter of a mile--say 440 yards.

[Illustration: 16. Circle on Hakpen Hill. From Stukeley.]

The most curious circumstance, however, connected with this circle is

that, at the distance of about 80 yards from the outer oval, there were

found two rows of skeletons, laid side by side, with their feet towards

the centre of the circles. In a curious letter, written by a Dr. Toope,

of Oxford, dated 1st December, 1685, addressed to Mr. Aubrey, and

published by Sir R. Colt Hoare,[88] it is said:--"I quickly perceived

them to be human." "Next day dugg up many bushells, with which I made

a noble medicine. The bones are large and nearly rotten, but the teeth

extream and wonderfully white. About 80 yards from where the bones were

found, is a temple 40 yards diameter, with another 15 yards; round

about bones layd so close that scul toucheth scul. Their feet all round

turned towards the temple, 1 foot below the surface of the ground. At

the feet of the first order lay the head of the next row, the feet

always tending towards the temple." Further on Aubrey asserts that a

ditch surrounded the temple, which Stukeley denies; but there seems no

difficulty in reconciling the two statements. The destruction of the

monument had commenced before Aubrey's time. For it is impossible to

conceive bodies lying for even 1000 or 1200 years in so light a soil,

at the depth of 1 foot or even 2 feet, exposed to the influence of rain

and frost, without their being returned to earth. Most probably there

was a ditch, and where there was a ditch there must have been a mound,

and that, if heaped over the bodies, might have protected them. The

vallum had disappeared in Aubrey's time; the ditch was filled up before

Stukeley's, and stones and all had been smoothed over in Sir R. Colt

Hoare's; so that now the site can hardly be defined with certainty. A

trench, however, cut across it, if it can be traced, might lead to some

curious revelations, for there can be no doubt whatever with regard

to the facts stated in Dr. Toope's letter. He was a medical man of

eminence, and knew human bones perfectly, and was too deeply interested

in the diggings, from which he drew "his noble medicine," and to which

he frequently returned, to be mistaken in what he stated.

Meanwhile, however, what interests us more at this stage of the

enquiry are the differences as well as the similarities of the two

monuments. The circles at Hakpen are on a very much smaller scale both

as to linear dimensions and the size of the stones than the circles

at Avebury; and the difference between burning and burying, which, so

far as the evidence goes, seems to have prevailed in the two places,

is also remarkable. Do they belong to two different ages, and, if so,

which is the elder? The evidence of the tumuli is uniform that the

inhabitants of this island buried before they burnt. But can these

bones be so old as this would force us to admit they were? So far as

the evidence at present goes, it seems impossible to carry the burials

on Hakpen Hill back to the earliest period of prehistoric interments;

the condition of the bones is sufficient to render such an hypothesis

untenable. Unless the phosphates and other component adjuncts remained

in them, they would have been as useless for medicine as for manure,

and the exposed position in which they lay would have reduced these to

dust or mud in a very few centuries. From the descriptions we have, the

bodies certainly were not in the contracted doubled-up position usual

in the so-called bronze age, and there were no traces of the cremations

apparently introduced by the Romans, and practised for some time after

they left. All appear to have been laid out in the extended position

afterwards adopted and continued to the present day. In fact everything

would lead us to suppose that Camden was not far wrong in saying that

these were the bones of the Saxons and Danes slain at the battle of

Kennet in A.D. 1006.[89] Even then, unless there was a mound

over them, they could hardly have lasted 600 years in the state in

which they were found. If we do not adopt this view, but insist that

Hakpen and Avebury are contemporary monuments, and part of one great

plan, the only hypothesis that occurs to me that will at all account

for their peculiarities is that the victorious army burnt and buried

their dead at Avebury, and that the defeated force got permission to

bury their dead more modestly on Hakpen Hill.

[Illustration: 17. Section of Silbury Hill.]

Silbury Hill, which forms the third member of our group, is situated

nearly due south from Avebury, at a distance of 1200 yards from the

outside of the ring, of the former, to the foot of the hill, or, as

nearly as may be, one Roman mile from centre to centre. Mr. Rickman[90]

based an argument on the latter fact, as if it proved the post-Roman

origin of the group; and like the many recurring instances of 100 feet

and 100 yards, which run through all the megalithic remains, it may

have some value, but, as a single instance, it can only be looked upon

as a coincidence.

The dimensions of the hill, as ascertained by the Rev. Mr. Smith, of

Yatesbury,[91] are that it is 130 feet in height, 552 feet in diameter,

and 1657 feet in circumference; that the flat top is 104 feet or 102

feet across,[92] according to the direction in which it is measured;

this last being another Roman coincidence, as the top has no doubt both

sunk and spread. The angle of the slope of the sides is 30 degrees to

the horizon.

In the year 1777 a shaft was sunk from the top of the mound to the

base, by order of the then Duke of Northumberland and Colonel Drax,

but no record has been preserved of what they found, or rather did

not find, for had they made any discovery of the least importance,

it certainly would have been communicated to some of the learned

societies of the day. Subsequently, in 1849, a shaft was driven nearly

horizontally from the southern face on the level of the original soil

to the centre, where it met the Duke's shaft; and subsequently a

circular gallery was carried round the centre, but in vain; nothing was

found in these excavations that would show that the mound had ever been

used for sepulchral purposes, or that threw any light whatever on its

history or destination.[93]

Judging from the analogies gathered from our knowledge of the parallel

Indian series, we ought not to be surprised if this really were the

only result. From the accounts of the Chinese travellers who visited

India in the fifth and seventh centuries, we learn that about one-half

of the topes they saw and described were erected to commemorate

events, and not to contain relics, or as simulated tombs. Wherever

Buddha or any of his followers performed any miracles, or where any

event happened of sufficient importance to make it desirable that the

memory of the locality where it happened should be preserved, there

a Tope was erected. To take an example as bearing more directly than

usual on our present subject. When Dutthagamini, king of Ceylon (161

B.C.), defeated the usurper Ellala, and restored the true

faith, "he erected near the capital a dagoba in commemoration of his

victory. A stone pillar marks the spot where the action commenced,

and another stone pillar exists there with an inscription to the

effect that it marks the spot rendered sacred by the death and blood

of Ellala."[94] The dagoba is a simple mound of earth, and, so far as

known, has never been opened. In Afghanistan, many of the topes opened

by Messrs. Masson and Honigberger were found to be what they call

"blind topes," but they were not able to detect by any external sign

whether their researches were likely to be rewarded with success or to

end in disappointment.[95]

Whether these analogies are worth anything or not, nothing appears, at

first sight at least, more probable than that, if the fallen chiefs

of a victorious army are buried at Avebury, the survivors should

have employed their prisoners as slaves to erect a mound on the spot

probably where the chiefs were slain and the battle decided. The

tradition, however, having been lost, the mound stands silent and

uncommunicative, and it is not easy now to read its riddle.

It is very premature, however, to speculate either on these analogies

or on the negative results of the explorations made into the hill:

these last were undertaken, like the diggings at Avebury, on the

empirical assumption that the principal deposit would be found in the

centre, and at Silbury on the ground level, which is exactly the place

where almost certainly it was not. Supposing that there is a low-level

sepulture at Silbury, it probably will be found within 30 or 40 yards

of the outer face of the mound, on the side looking towards Avebury,

if it is connected with that monument. But the knowledge we have

acquired, as will be afterwards detailed, from the examination of the

Minning Lowe, Arbor Lowe, Rose Hill tumuli, and other monuments of this

class, would lead us to expect to find the principal deposit near the

summit. The bit of a bridle (woodcut No. 18) and the traces of armour

which were found in Stukeley's time, near the summit, mark in all

probability the position of the principal graves, and nothing would

surprise me less than if five or six entombments were found arranged

around the upper plateau at a small depth below the surface. We shall

be in a better position to judge how far this is probable when we have

finished this chapter; but till the evidence is adduced, it is useless

to speculate on its effect.

[Illustration: 18. Iron Bit of Bridle. Found in Silbury Hill.]

At one time I hoped that the Roman road might be found to have passed

under the hill, and if this were the case, it would settle the question

as to whether it were pre- or post-Roman. In order to ascertain this,

some excavations were made into the hill in 1867, and simultaneously

on the high ground to the southward of it. As traces which seemed

undoubtedly to mark the existence of the road running past the hill,

at about 50 to 100 yards to the southward, were found there, the

excavations into the hill were discontinued, and the line of the road

considered as established. Owing to various mishaps, no plan of these

discoveries has yet been published, but the annexed woodcut, which is

traced from the Ordnance Survey sheet, will suffice to explain its

bearing on the question.

[Illustration: 19. Plan of Avebury, from Ordnance Survey. The line of

the Roman road is hatched throughout.]

Standing on Silbury Hill and looking westward, the road coming from

Bath over the downs seems to come direct at the hill. After passing the

Devizes road, it trends to the southward, and shortly again resumes

its original direction. About a mile before it reaches the hill, it

again resumes its southward direction, and passes it at a distance

of between 50 to 100 yards, making, apparently, for the spot where

the bridge over the Kennet now exists, and may have existed in Roman

times. Those who contend for the pre-Roman antiquity of the hill rest

their case on the assumption that the Romans always made or wished to

make their roads perfectly straight, and that this being deflected to

the south, it was in consequence of the hill being there at the time

the road was made. This, however, is singularly contradicted by the

line of this very road westwards from the Devizes road. According to

the Ordnance Survey, it is set out in a curve for 3½ miles till it

meets the Wandsdyke. Why this was done is not clearer than why the road

should have been curved to the eastward of the Devizes road. But, on

the other hand, supposing the hill to have been where it now stands,

and the Romans wished the road to be straight, nothing in the world was

so easy as for them to set out a line mathematically straight between

the Devizes road and the point where it passes the hill. The country

is and was perfectly open, and quite as flat as any Roman road-maker

could desire, and signals could have been seen throughout with perfect

facility. It is crediting the Roman surveyors with a degree of

stupidity they certainly did not show elsewhere, to say, if they wanted

a straight road, that seeing the hill before their eyes, they first

set out their road towards it, when they knew that before they had

advanced a mile, they must bend it so as to avoid that very obstacle.

Even then they would have tried to make it as straight as possible,

and would have adopted the line of the present coach-road, which runs

inside their line and between it and the hill. At the same time, if

any one will turn to Sir R. Colt Hoare's map of the Roman roads in

this district--"Stations Calne and Swindon"--which includes Avebury,

he will find that all are set out in lines more or less curvilinear,

and sometimes violently so, when any object was to be gained by so

doing. Though, therefore, as a general rule, it is safe to argue on the

presumption of the straightness of Roman roads, it may lead to serious

error to rely on such evidence in every instance.

The inference drawn from the piece of the Roman road further eastward

on Hakpen Hill is the same. It is perfectly distinct and quite straight

for about a mile, but if it had been continued in that line, it would

have passed the hill at a distance of at least 200 yards to the

southward, and never have joined the other piece till long after it

had passed the Devizes road. It was deflected northward in the village

of Kennet, apparently to reach the bridge, and then to join the piece

coming from Bath.

The result of all this seems to be, that the evidence of the Roman

road is inconclusive either way and must be withdrawn. Taking the

point where it passes the Devizes road, and the piece which is found

on Hakpen hill as fixed points, to join these it must have passed

considerably to the southward of the hill; whether it did so in a

mathematically straight line or in one slightly curved, was a matter

for the judgment of the surveyor; but till we know his motives, it is

not in our power to found any argument upon them.

[Illustration: 20. Elevation of the Bartlow Hills. From the

'Archæologia,' xxx.]

If, however, the Roman road refuses to give evidence in this cause,

the form of the hill offers some indications which are of value. As

before mentioned, it is a truncated straight-lined cone, sloping at an

angle of 30° to the horizon, while all the British barrows known are

domical or, at least, curvilinear in section. In all his experience,

Sir R. Colt Hoare met with only one straight-lined monument of this

class, which consequently he calls the Conical Barrow. Whether it

was truncated or not is not quite clear. There are bushes, or weeds,

growing out of the top, which conceal its form.[96] Nothing was found

in the barrow to indicate its age except a brass (bronze?) spear-head,

but it was attached to a British village, apparently of the Roman

period, inasmuch as iron nails and Roman pottery were found in it.[97]

Be this as it may, there are a range of tumuli at Bartlow, on the

boundary between Essex and Cambridgeshire, which are all truncated

cones, and are undoubtedly of Roman origin. A coin of Hadrian was

found in the chamber of one of them, and Mr. Gage, and the other

archæologists who were present at the opening, were all agreed that all

the four opened were of about the same age.[98] We may therefore feel

assured that they were not earlier than the time of Hadrian, though

from the style of workmanship of the various articles found, I would

feel inclined to consider them somewhat more modern, but that is of

little consequence. The point that interests us most is, that the angle

of the Conical Barrow quoted above is 45° to the horizon, that of the

principal tumuli at Bartlow 37½° and that of Silbury Hill 30°. Here

we certainly have a sequence not long enough to be quite satisfactory,

but still of considerable value, as an indication that Silbury hill was

post-Roman.

On the other hand, we have undoubted evidence that the truncated

conical form was common in post-Roman times. We have one, for instance,

at Marlborough, close by, and if that place was Merlin's bury, as Sir

R. Colt Hoare would fain persuade us it was, it assists us considerably

in our argument. Without insisting on this, however, Mr. George Clark,

in his most valuable paper on Ancient English Castles,[99] enumerates

ninety truncated cones erected in England, he considers, between the

Roman times and the Norman conquest. "These earthworks," he says,

"may be thus described: First was cast up a truncated cone of earth,

standing at its natural slope from 50 feet to 100 feet in diameter at

the top, and from 20 feet to 50 feet high."[100] Mr. Clark does not

believe that these were ever sepulchral, nor does it occur to him that

they might be memorial. I should, however, be disinclined to accept

the first conclusion as absolute till excavations had been made into

some of them, at least, where I fancy we may find indications rather

tending the other way. Whether they were memorial or not must depend

on traditions that have not hitherto been looked for. Mr. Clark's

contention was that all had at some time or other been used for

residential purposes, and as fortifications, and many are recorded as

having been erected as castles. All this is probably quite correct, but

the point that interests us here is, that there are nearly one hundred

examples of truncated cones of earth thrown up in England after the

Roman times, and not one before. If this is so, the conclusion seems

inevitable that Silbury Hill must belong to the latter age. Whether

this conclusion can be sustained or not, must depend on what follows

from the other monuments we are about to examine. The evidence of the

monument itself, which is all we have hitherto had an opportunity of

bringing forward, may be sufficient to render it probable, but not to

prove the case. Unless other examples can be adduced whose evidence

tends the same way, the case cannot be taken as proved, however strong

a _prima facie_ presumption may be established.

* * * * *

[Illustration: 21. Marden Circle. From Sir R. C. Hoare. No Scale.]

Though a little distant, it may be convenient to include the Marden

circle in the Avebury group. It is situated in a village of that name

seven miles south of Silbury Hill. When Sir R. Colt Hoare surveyed it

fifty years ago, the southern half of the vallum had been so completely

destroyed, that it could not be traced, and he carried it across the

brook, making the whole area about fifty-one acres.[101] My impression

is that this is a mistake, and that the area of the circle was only

about half that extent. The rampart was of about the same section as

Avebury, and the ditch was inside as there. Within this enclosure were

two mounds, situated unsymmetrically, like the circles at Avebury. The

greater one was opened with great difficulty, owing to the friable

nature of the earth of which it was composed; and Mr. Cunnington was

convinced that it was sepulchral, and contained one or more burials

by cremation; but Sir R. Colt Hoare was so imbued with the Druidical

theory as to Avebury, that he could not give up the idea that so

similar a monument must be also a Druidical altar, and the whole a

temple. The second barrow was too much ruined to yield any results, and

on revisiting the spot, it was found to have been cleared away. A great

part of the vallum had also been removed, but in it was found at least

one skeleton of a man who had been buried there.[102] How many more

there may have been it is impossible to say. The destroyers of these

antiquities were not likely to boast of the number of bodies they had

disturbed.

The great interest of this circle is that it contains in earth the

counterpart of what was found at Avebury in stone; not that this

necessarily betokens either an earlier or a later age. There are no

stones to be found at Marden, which is on the edge of the chalk, while

the country about Avebury was and is covered with Sarsens to this

day. It may, however, be considered as very positive evidence of the

sepulchral nature of that monument, if such were needed, and if it

were thoroughly explored, might perhaps settle the question of the age

of both. In this respect, the Marden monument affords a better field

for the explorer than Avebury. The destruction or disfigurement of its

mound, or vallum, would be no great loss to antiquaries, if a proper

record were kept of their present appearance; while to do anything

tending towards the further dilapidation of Avebury is a sacrilege from

which every one would shrink.

* * * * *

Before leaving the neighbourhood it now only remains to try and

determine who the brave men were who were buried at Avebury, and who

the victors who raised the mound at Silbury, assuming that the one is

a burying place, and the other a trophy. Some years ago I suggested

it was those who fell in Arthur's last and greatest battle of Badon

Hill, fought somewhere in this neighbourhood in the year A.D.

520,[103] and nothing that has since occurred has at all shaken my

conviction in the correctness of this determination,[104] but a good

deal has tended to confirm it.

The authors of the 'Monumenta Britannica' fix the site of this battle

at Banesdown, near Bath, which is the generally received opinion.[105]

Carte, and others, have suggested Baydon Hill, about thirteen miles

west by north from Avebury, while Dr. Guest carries it off to Badbury,

in Dorset,[106] a distance of forty miles. Unfortunately, Gildas, who

is our principal authority on this matter, only gives us in three

words all he has to say of the locality in which it was fought--"Prope

Sabrinum Ostium";[107] and it has been asserted that these words are

an interpolation, because they are not found in all the ancient MSS.

If they are, however, an insertion, they are still of very ancient

date, and would not have been admitted and repeated if they had not

been added by some one who knew or had authority for introducing them.

As the words are generally translated, they are taken to mean near the

mouth of the Severn, a construction at once fatal to the pretensions

of Bath, which it is impossible any one should describe as near that

river, even if any one could say where the mouth of that river is. It

is most difficult to determine where the river ends and the estuary

begins, and to a mediæval geographer, especially, that point must

have been much nearer Gloucester than even Bristol. This, however,

is of little consequence, as the words in the text are not "Sabrinæ

ostium," but "Sabrinum ostium"; and as the river is always spoken of

as feminine, it is not referred to here, and the expression can only

be translated as "near the Welsh gate." Nor does it seem difficult to

determine where the Welsh gate must have been.

The Wandsdyke always seems to have been regarded as a barrier erected

to stop the incursions of the Welsh into the southern counties, and

that part of it extending from Savernake forest westward, for ten or

twelve miles, seems at some comparatively recent period to have been

raised and strengthened[108] (either by the Belgæ or Saxons) to make

it more effectual for that purpose. According as an army is advancing

northward from Winchester, or Chichester to the Severn valley, or is

marching from Gloucester or Cirencester towards the south, the rampart

either protects or bars the way. In its centre, near the head-waters

of the Kennet, the Saxons advanced in 557 to the siege of Barbury

Castle, and having gained that vantage ground, they again advanced in

577 to Deorham, and fought the battle that gave them possession of

Glewanceaster, Cyrenceaster, and Bathanceaster.[109] What they then

accomplished they seem to have attempted unsuccessfully thirty-seven

years earlier, and to have been stopped in the attempt by Arthur

at Badon Hill. If this is so, there can be very little difficulty

in determining the site of the Welsh gate as that opening through

which the road now passes 2½ miles south of Silbury Hill, in the

very centre of the strengthened part of the Wandsdyke. If this is

so, the Saxons under Cerdic must have passed through the village of

Avebury, supposing it then existed, on their way to Cirencester; and

if we assume that they were attacked on Waden hill by Arthur, the

whole history of the campaign is clear. If we may rely on a nominal

similarity the case may be considered as proved. Waden is the name by

which the hill between Avebury and Silbury is called at the present

day by the people of the country, and it is so called on the Ordnance

survey sheets, and etymologically Waden is more like Badon than Baydon,

or Badbury, or any other name in the neighbourhood. The objection

to this is that Waden Hill is not fortified, and that Gildas speaks

of the "Obsessio Montis Badonici." It is true there is no trace of

any earthworks on it now, but in Stukeley's time there were tumuli

and earthen rings (apparently sepulchral) on its summit, which are

represented in his plates; but no trace of these now remains. The hill

was cultivated in his day, and in a century or so beyond his time all

traces of ramparts may have been obliterated, supposing them to have

existed. The true explanation of the difficulty, however, I believe to

be found in Jeffrey of Monmouth's account of these transactions. He

is a frail reed to rely upon; but occasionally he seems to have had

access to authorities now lost, and their testimony at times throws

considerable light on passages of our history otherwise obscure.

According to him there was both a siege and a battle; and his account

of the battle is so circumstantial and so probable, that it is

difficult to believe it to be a pure invention. If it is not, every

detail of his description would answer perfectly to an attack on an

army posted on Waden Hill.[110] The siege would then probably be that

of Barbury Hill, which Cerdic would be obliged to raise on Arthur's

advance; and retreating towards the shelter of the Wandsdyke, he was

overtaken at this spot and defeated, and so peace was established for

many years between the Brits and the Saxons. It may be true that the

written evidence is not either sufficiently detailed or sufficiently

precise to establish the fact that the battle was fought on this spot.

It must, however, be conceded that nothing in all that is written

contradicts what is here advanced, and when to this we add such a

burying place, Avebury at one end of Waden Hill, and such a monument

as Silbury Hill at the other, the proofs that it was so seem to me to

amount as nearly to certainty as we can now expect to arrive at in such

matters.

Those who believe, however, that all these monuments are absolutely

prehistoric, will not, of course, be convinced by any argument derived

from a single monument; but if it should turn out that even a more

certain case can be made out for the equally modern age of others, that

point must eventually be conceded. When it is, I feel no doubt that it

will come eventually to be acknowledged that those who fell in Arthur's

twelfth and greatest battle were buried in the ring at Avebury, and

that those who survived raised these stones and the mound at Silbury

in the vain hope that they would convey to their latest posterity the

memory of their prowess.

STONEHENGE.

Although from its exceptional character Stonehenge is not so valuable

as some others for evidence of the age or uses of the rest of the

monuments of this class, it is in some respects even more important

for our argument, inasmuch as it possesses a more complete mediæval

history than almost any other of the series. It must be confessed that

this history is neither so clear nor so complete as might be wished;

but, with the other evidence that can be adduced, it makes up a case so

strong as to leave little to be desired. Before, however, proceeding to

this, it is necessary to ascertain what Stonehenge really is, or rather

was, for strange to say, though numberless restorations of it have

been published, not one is quite satisfactory. There is very little

discrepancy of opinion with regard to the outer circle or the five

great central trilithons, but there is the greatest possible variety of

opinion as to the number and position of the smaller stones inside the

central or between the two great circles.

[Illustration: 22. General Plan of Stonehenge. From 'Knight's Old

England.']

There seems to be no doubt that the outer stone circle originally

consisted of thirty square piers, spaced tolerably equally in the

circle. Though only twenty-six can now be identified, either standing

or lying in fragments on the ground, it seems equally certain that

they were all connected by a continuous stone impost or architrave,

though only six of these are now in _situ_.[111] The diameter of the

circle is generally stated to be about 100 feet, and as this has been

suggested as a reason for its being considered as post-Roman, it is

important to know what its exact dimensions are. It turns out that

from the face of one pier to that of the opposite one, where both are

perpendicular, the distance is 97·6, or exactly 100 Roman feet. The

distance from the outer face of these piers to inside of the earthen

vallum that surrounds the whole is again 100 feet, though that cannot

now be ascertained within a foot or two, or even more; but as this

makes up the 100 yards and the 100 feet which recur so often in these

monuments, these dimensions can hardly be considered accidental, and

"valeant quantum" are an indication of their post-Roman date.[112]

Inside these outer circles stand the five great trilithons. Since the

publication of Sir R. Colt Hoare's plan, their position and plan may

be considered as settled. According to him, the height of the outer

pair is 16·3, of the intermediate pair 17·2, and of the great central

trilithon as it now stands 21·6. In their simple grandeur they are

perhaps the most effective example of megalithic art that ever was

executed by man. The Egyptians and Romans raised larger stones, but

they destroyed their grandeur by ornament, or by their accompaniments;

but these simple square masses on Salisbury plain are still unrivalled

for magnificence in their own peculiar style.

All the stones in these two great groups are Sarsens, as they are

locally called, a peculiar class of silicious sandstone that is found

as a local deposit in the bottoms of the valleys between Salisbury and

Swindon. It is the same stone as is used at Avebury, the difference

being that there the stones are used rough in their natural state,

here they are hewn and fitted with very considerable nicety. Each of

the uprights has a tenon on its surface, and the undersides of the

architrave, or horizontal piece, have each a mortice, or rather two

mortices, into which these tenons fit with considerable exactness.

[Illustration: 23. Stonehenge as at present existing, from Mr.

Hawkshaw's plan.]

Besides these there are even now eleven stones, some standing, others

thrown down, but still existing, within the inner circle. These are

of a different nature, being all cut from igneous rocks, such as are

not to be found nearer than Cornwall or even Ireland. It has not been

exactly ascertained whence they came; indeed, they seem to be of

various kinds, and consequently must have been brought from different

places. Locally they are called Blue stones, and it may be well to

adopt that short title for the present, as involving no theory, and as

sufficing to distinguish them from the local Sarsens.

[Illustration: 24. Plan of Stonehenge restored.]

None of the blue stones are large; one of the finest (23 in Sir R. Colt

Hoare's plan) is 7 feet 6 inches high, 2 feet 3 inches wide at base,

tapering to 1 foot on top. The others are generally smaller. One blue

stone opposite 23 is grooved with a channel from top to bottom, though

for what purpose it is not easy to guess. On the most cursory glance,

it is evident that these stones generally stood in pairs, about 3 feet

apart; but some are so completely overthrown and displaced, that it

is not quite clear whether this can be predicated of all. Entering

the choir on the left hand we find one that seems to stand alone. But

we may infer that this was not always so, from the circumstance that

there lies close by it an impost stone with two mortice holes in it,

only 3 feet 6 inches apart, which must have belonged to a smaller order

of trilithons, and is just such as would fit a pair of blue stones.

The next pair on the left is very distinct, and stands between the two

great trilithons. The next pair is also similarly situated. On the

opposite side there are two pairs, but situated, as far as can be made

out, in front of, and not between the trilithons; and again, there

are two blue stones behind the stone called the Altar stone, but so

displaced by the fall of the great trilithon behind them, that it is

impossible to make out their original position with certainty.

It will probably be impossible to determine whether all the pairs of

the stones were miniature trilithons or not, till we are able to turn

over all the stones that now strew the ground, and see if there is a

second stone with two mortices 3 or 4 feet apart. In the meanwhile

there is a passage in Henry of Huntingdon's work which may throw some

light on the subject. He describes "Lapides miræ magnitudinis in modum

portarum elevati sunt, ita ut portæ portis superpositæ videantur."[113]

With a very little latitude of translation, this might be taken as

referring to the great trilithons towering over the smaller; but

if we are to adhere to the literal meaning of the words, this is

inadmissible. Another explanation has therefore been suggested. The

impost stone of the great trilithon has apparently mortice holes on

both sides. If those on one side are not mere wearings of the weather,

this must indicate that something stood upon it. If we assume two

cubical blocks, and raise on them the stone now called the Altar stone,

which is of the exact dimensions required, we would have an arrangement

very similar to that of the Sanchi gateway,[114] a cast of which is

now exhibiting at South Kensington, and which would fully justify

Huntingdon's words. If it is objected that it is a long way to go to

Sanchi to look for a type, it may be answered that the Imperial coins

of Cyprus show a very similar construction, and both may be derived

from a common centre. On the whole, however, I am inclined to the first

explanation. There certainly were large and small trilithons, and too

great accuracy of description is not to be expected from a Latin writer

in the middle ages.

A good deal of astonishment has been expressed at the labour it must

have required to transport these blue stones from Cornwall or Wales

and to set them up here. If we refer them to the pre-Roman times of

our naked blue painted ancestors, the difficulties are, of course,

considerable. But after Roman times, the class of vessels they were in

the habit of building in these islands must have made their transport

by sea easy, even if they came from Ireland, as I believe they did. And

any one who has seen with what facility Chinese coolies carry about

monolithic pillars 10 feet and 12 feet long, and thick in proportion,

will not wonder that twenty or thirty men should transport these from

the head of Southampton water to Stonehenge.[115] With the works the

Romans left, and the modicum of civilization the natives could not fail

to have imbibed from them, the whole was simple, and must have been

easy.

Still more wonder has been expressed at the mass of the stones

composing the great trilithons themselves, and speculations have been

rife as to how our forefathers could, without machinery, drag these

masses to the spot, and erect them as they now stand. A good deal of

this wonder has been removed, since it was understood that the Sarsens

of which they are composed are a natural deposit, found on the surface

on all the bottoms in the Wiltshire downs. Owing to the progress of

civilization, they have disappeared about Salisbury, but they are still

to be seen in hundreds in Clatford bottom, and all about Avebury, and

in the northern portion of the downs. The distance, therefore, that

the stones of Stonehenge had to be dragged was probably very small;

and over a hard, even surface of chalk down, with a few rollers and

ropes, must have been a task of no great difficulty. Nor would the

process of blocking them up with a temporary mound composed of wood

and chalk be one that would frighten a rude people with whom time was

no object. After all, Stonehenge is only child's play as compared

with the monolithic masses the Egyptians quarried, and carved, and

moved all over their country, long before Stonehenge was thought of,

and without machinery in the sense in which we understand the term.

In India, our grandfathers might have seen far more wonderful things

done before we crushed all feeling and enterprise out of the people.

The great gateway, for instance, at Seringham is 40 feet high, 21 feet

wide, and 100 feet deep. The four door posts are each of a single block

of granite, more, consequently, than 40 feet in length, for they are

partially buried in the earth. The whole is roofed by slabs of granite,

each more than 21 feet long, and raised to the height of 40 feet;

and all of these, though of granite, are elaborately carved. Yet the

building of the gateway was stopped by our quarrel with the French for

the possession of Trichinopoly in the middle of the last century. The

Indians in those days had no machinery, but with plenty of hands and

plenty of leisure mountains may be raised; and it is on this principle

that barbarous nations act and by which they achieve such wonders. The

masses of Stonehenge are not, however, so very great after all, but

they impose by their simplicity. To use an apparent paradox, it is one

of the most artistic buildings in the world from its very want of art.

The 40 feet monoliths of Seringham do not impress as much as the 20

feet stones of Stonehenge, because the one is covered with sculpture,

the other more nearly in a state of nature, and the effect on the mind

is immensely enhanced by the monolithic simplicity of the whole.

Strange to say, this very grandeur and apparent difficulty is one of

the most common reasons adduced for its pre-Roman antiquity. Few can

escape from an ill-defined impression that what is great and difficult

must also be ancient, though the probability is, that if the feeling

were analyzed it would be found to have arisen from the learning we

imbibed in the nursery, and which told us of the giants that lived in

the olden time. If, however, we turn from the teachings of nursery

rhymes to the pages of sober history, what we learn is something very

different. Without laying too much stress on the nakedness and blue

paint of our ancestors, all history, and the testimony of the barrows,

would lead us to suppose that the inhabitants of this island, before

the Romans occupied it, were sparse, poor in _physique_, and in a very

low state of civilization. Though their national spirit may have been

knocked out of them, they must have increased in number, in physical

comfort, and in civilization during the four centuries of peaceful

prosperity of the Roman domination, and therefore in so far as that

argument goes, became infinitely more capable of erecting such a

monument as Stonehenge after the departure of the Romans than they had

been before their advent.

It certainly appears one of the strangest inversions of logic to assume

that the same people erected Stonehenge who, during the hundreds, or

it may be the thousands, of years of their occupation, could attempt

nothing greater than the wretched mole-hills of barrows which they

scraped up all over the Wiltshire downs. Not one of those has even a

circle of stone round its base; nowhere is there a battle stone or a

stone monument of any sort. Though the downs must have been covered

with Sarsens, they had neither sense nor enterprise sufficient even to

set one of those stones on end. Yet we are asked to believe that the

same people, in the same state, erected Stonehenge and Avebury, and

heaped up Silbury Hill. These monuments may be the expression of the

feelings of the same race; but if I am not very much mistaken, in a

very different and much more advanced state of civilization.

* * * * *

We shall be in a better position to answer a question which has

frequently been raised, whether or not the blue stones were a part

of the original structure, or were added afterwards, when we have

discussed the materials for the history of its erection; meanwhile

we may pass from these, which are the really interesting part of the

structure, to the circle which is generally supposed to have existed

between the outer circle of Sarsens and the inner choir of great stones.

With regard to this nothing is certain, except in respect to eight

stones, which stretched across the entrance of the choir, and may

consequently be called the choir screen. Of the four on the right hand

side only one has fallen, but it is still there; on the left hand only

two remain, and only one is standing, but the design is perfectly

clear. The two central stones are 6 feet high, and the stones fall off

by regular gradation right and left to 3 feet at the extremities. They

are rude unhewn Sarsen stones, but there is nothing to indicate whether

they were, or were not, a part of the original design.

Beyond this, between the two great Sarsen circles, there exist some

nine or ten stones, but whether they are in _situ_ or not, or whether

they were ever more numerous, it seems impossible to determine. On

the left hand, near the centre, are a pair that may have been a

trilithon, but the rest are scattered so unsymmetrically that it

would be dangerous to hazard any conjecture with regard to their

original arrangement. It seems, however, most improbable that while

the choir screen is so nearly entire even now, that this circle, if it

ever existed, should have been so completely destroyed. Had it been

complete, it would probably have consisted of 40 stones (excluding, of

course, the choir screen), and of these only 10, if so many, can be

said to belong to it. These are rude unhewn stones, and of no great

dimensions.

In addition to these, there are two stones now overthrown lying inside

the vallum, unsymmetrically with one another, or with anything else.

Here again the question arises, were there more? There is nothing on

the spot to guide us to our answer, and as nothing hinges upon it, I

may perhaps be allowed to suggest that each of these marks a secondary

interment. At the foot of each, I fancy urns or bones, or some evidence

of a burial might be found, and if the place had continued for a

century as a burying place, it might have been surrounded by its circle

of stones, like Avebury, or Crichie, or Stanton moor. The place,

however, may have become deserted shortly after these two were erected,

and none have been added since.

There are still two other stones, one standing, one lying in the short

avenue that leads up to the temple. Their position is exactly that

of the two stones, which are all that is visible of the so-called

Beckhampton avenue, at Avebury. But what their use is it is difficult

to guess. Were either of the places temples, they would have been

placed opposite one another on each side of the avenue, so that the

priests in procession and people might pass between, but being placed

one behind the other in the centre of the roadway, they must have had

some other meaning. What that may have been I am unable to suggest. The

spade may tell us if judiciously applied, but except from the spade I

do not know where to look for a solution of the riddle.

Those who consider that Stonehenge was a temple have certainly much

better grounds for such a theory than it would be possible to establish

in respect to Avebury. Indeed, looking at the ground plan above, there

is something singularly templar in its arrangement. In the centre is

a choir, in which a dignified service could be performed, and a stone

lies now just in such a position as to entitle it to the appellation it

generally receives of the altar stone. Unfortunately for this theory,

however, it lies flush with the ground, and even if we assume that

the surface has been raised round it, its thickness is not sufficient

to entitle it to be so called, judging from any analogous example we

know of elsewhere. Around the choir is what may fairly be considered

the procession path; and if its walls had only been solid, and there

were any indications that the building had ever been roofed, it would

be difficult to prove that it was not erected as a temple, and for

worship. As, however, it has no walls, and it is impossible to believe

that it was ever intended to be roofed, all the arguments that apply to

Avebury in this respect are equally applicable here, with this one in

addition. Unless its builders were much more pachydermatous, or woolly,

than their degenerate descendants, when they chose this very drafty and

hypæthral style of architecture, they would certainly have selected a

sheltered spot on the banks of the Avon close by, where, with trees

and other devices, they might have provided some shelter from the

inclemency of the weather. They never would have erected their temples

on the highest and most exposed part of an open chalk down, where no

shelter was possible, and no service could be performed except at

irregular intervals, dependent on the weather throughout the year. As,

however, it differs not only in plan but in construction--being hewn

and having imposts--from all the rude stone circles we are acquainted

with elsewhere, no theory will be quite satisfactory that does not

account for this difference. My belief is, that this difference arises

from the fact that alone of all the monuments we know of its class,

it was erected leisurely and in time of peace by a prince retaining a

considerable admixture of Roman blood in his veins. All, or most of the

others, seem to be records of battles erected in haste by soldiers and

unskilled workmen: but of this hereafter.

Owing to its exceptional character, the usual analogies apply less

directly to Stonehenge than to almost any other monument.

[Illustration: 25. Tomb of Isidorus, at Khatoura.]

We shall be better able to judge how far those derived from India

apply, when we have described the monuments of that country. In Europe

the trilithon is certainly exceptional, and its origin not easily

traced. My own impression is, that it is only an improved dolmen,

standing on two legs instead of three, or four; but if that is so,

the intermediate steps are wanting which would enable us to connect

the two in a logical manner. They were not, however, quite unknown in

the Roman world. Several exist in Syria, for instance; three of these

are engraved in De Vogüé's work. One (the tomb of Emilius Reginus,

A.D. 195) consists of two Doric columns, with an impost;

another (woodcut No. 25) is the tomb of a certain Isidorus, and is

dated A.D. 222, and is more like our Salisbury example; both

these last-named are situated near Khatoura.[116] The bearing of such

an example as this on the question of the age of these monuments admits

of a double interpretation. According to the usual and specious mode of

reasoning, the ruder form must be the earliest, and the architectural

one copied from it. But this theory I believe to be entirely at

variance with the facts, as observed. The rudeness or elaboration of a

monument will probably be found in all instances to be an index of the

greater or less civilization of the people who erected it, but seldom

or ever a trustworthy index of time. What interests us more at present

is the knowledge that these Syrian examples are certainly sepulchral,

and their form is thus another argument in favour of the sepulchral

character of Stonehenge, if any were needed. More satisfactory than

this, however, is the testimony of Olaus Magnus, archbishop of Upsala,

quoted above.[117] He describes and figures "the most honourable

monuments of the great of his country as erected with immense stones,

and formed like great gates or trilithons" (in modum altissimæ et

latissimæ januæ sursum transversumque viribus gigantum erecta). There

is no reason for supposing that this author ever saw or even heard of

Stonehenge, yet it would be difficult to describe either the purpose or

the mode of construction of that monument more correctly than he does;

and in so far as such testimony is considered valuable, it is decisive

as to both the age and use of the monument.

Passing on from this branch of the enquiry to such local indications

as the spot affords, we find nothing very relevant or very important

either for or against our hypothesis. It has been argued, for instance,

that the number of tumuli that stud the downs within a few miles of

Stonehenge, is a proof that this temple stood there before the barrows

were erected, and that they gathered round its sacred precincts. The

first objection to this view is, that it is applying a Christian

precedent to a Pagan people. Except the Jews, who seem to have buried

their kings close to their temples,[118] I do not know of any people in

ancient or modern times except Christians who did so, and we certainly

have no hint that the ancient Britons were an exception to this

universal rule.

[Illustration: 26. Country around Stonehenge. From Ordnance Survey

maps. Scale 1 inch to 1 mile.]

Assuming, however, for the sake of argument, that this were otherwise,

we should then certainly find the barrows arranged with some reference

to Stonehenge. Either they would have gathered closely around its

precincts, or ranged in rows alongside the roads or avenues leading

to it. Nothing of the sort, however, occurs, as will be seen from the

woodcut in the following page. Within 700 yards of the monument there

is only one very insignificant group, eight in number (15 to 23 of Sir

R. Colt Hoare's plan). Beyond that they become frequent, crowning the

tops of the hills, or clustering in the hollows, but nowhere with the

least apparent reference to Stonehenge. If any one will take the

Ordnance Survey maps, or Sir R. Colt Hoare's plans, he will find the

barrows pretty evenly sown all over the surface of the plain, from

two or three miles south of Stonehenge as far as Chidbury camp, eight

miles north of it. Indeed, if Sir R. Colt Hoare's plans are to be

trusted, they were thicker at the northern end of the plain than at

the southern;[119] but as the Ordnance maps do not bear this out, it

must not be relied upon. Nowhere over this large area (say 10 miles by

5 miles) is there any trace of system as to the mode of placing these

barrows. Indeed, from Dorchester up to Swindon, over a distance of more

than seventy miles, they are scattered either singly or in groups so

completely without order, that the only feasible explanation seems to

be, that each man was buried where he lived; it may possibly have been

in his own garden, but more probably in his own house. The hut circles

of British villages are in grouping and in form so like the barrows,

that it is difficult not to suspect some connexion between them. It may

have been that when the head of a family died, he was buried on his own

hearth, and an earthen mound replaced the hut in which he lived. Be

this as it may, there is one argument that those overlook who contend

that the barrows came to Stonehenge. It is admitted that Stonehenge

belongs to the so-called Bronze age,[120] but one half of the barrows

contain only flint and stone, and consequently were there before

Stonehenge was built. Nor is it by any means the case that the nearest

it were those which contained bronze or iron, it is generally quite the

contrary; with all his knowledge, even Sir R. Colt Hoare never could

venture to predict from the locality whether the interment would be

found to belong to one class or to another, nor can we now.

One of the most direct proofs that this argument is untenable is found

in the fact, that the builders of Stonehenge had so little respect for

the graves of their predecessors, that they actually destroyed two

barrows in making the vallum round the monument. Sir R. C. Hoare found

an interment in one, and from this he adds, "we may fairly infer that

this sepulchral barrow existed on the plain, I will not venture to say

before the construction of Stonehenge, but probably before the ditch

was thrown up."[121]

It seems needless, however, to pursue the argument further. Any one who

studies carefully the Ordnance Survey sheet must, I think, perceive

that there is no connexion between the earthen and the stone monuments.

Or if this fail to convince him, if he will ride from Stonehenge over

Westdown to Chidbury camp,[122] he can hardly fail to come to the

conclusion that Stonehenge came to the barrows, not the barrows to

Stonehenge.

One other indication drawn from the barrows has been thought to throw

some light on the subject. In one of those (No. 16) near Stonehenge,

about 300 yards off, were found chippings of the same blue stones

which form the inner circle of the monuments; but there was nothing

else in this barrow to indicate its age except a spear-head of brass

in fine preservation, and a pin of the same metal, which seemed to

indicate that it belonged to the bronze age. In another (No. 22)

a pair of ivory tweezers were found. From this discovery it was

inferred, and not without some show of reason, that the barrows were

more modern than Stonehenge; and if we are to believe that all barrows

are pre-Christian, as some would try to persuade us, there is an end

of the argument. But is this so? We have just seen that the Bartlow

hills were certainly Roman. We know that the Saxons buried in hows

in the country, down at least to Hubba the Dane,[123] who was slain

in 878, and in Denmark, as we shall presently see, to a much later

period; and we do not know when the Ancient Britons ceased to use

this mode of interment. Whoever they were that built Stonehenge,

they were not Christians; or, at all events, it is certainly not a

Christian building, and we have no reason to assume that those men

who were employed on its erection, and who had for thousands of years

been burying in barrows, changed their mode of sepulture before their

conversion to Christianity. It is infinitely more probable that they

continued the practice very long afterwards; and till we can fix

some time when we feel sure that sepulture in barrows had ceased,

no argument can be drawn from this evidence. That the chief mason

of Stonehenge should be buried in his own house, or own workshop,

appears to us the most natural thing in the world; and that a village

of barrows, if I may use the expression, may be contemporary with the

monument I regard also as probable; but unless from some external

evidence we can fix their age, their existence does not seem to have

any direct bearing on the points we are now discussing.

The diggings inside the area of Stonehenge throw more light on the

subject of our enquiry than anything found outside, but even they

are not so distinct or satisfactory as might be desired. The first

exploration was undertaken by the Duke of Buckingham, and an account of

it is preserved by Aubrey. He says, "In 1620 the duke, when King James

was at Wilton, did cause the middle of Stonehenge to be digged, and

this underdigging was the cause of the falling down and recumbencie of

the great stone there," meaning evidently the great central trilithon.

In the process of digging they "found a great many bones of stagges

and oxen, charcoal, batter dashes (whatever that may mean), heads of

arrows, and some pieces of armour eaten out with rust. Bones rotten,

but whether of stagges or of men they could not tell."[124] He further

adds "that Philip Earl of Pembroke did say that an altar stone was

found in the middle of the area here, and that it was carried away to

St. James'." What this means it is not easy to discern, for Inigo Jones

distinctly describes as the altar the stone now known by that name,

which measures, as he says, 16 feet by 4. It seems impossible that any

other could have existed without his knowing it, and if it existed it

would have favoured his views too distinctly for him not to mention the

fact.

As the digging above referred to must have taken place between

what is now called the altar stone and the great trilithon, it is

of considerable interest to us. But strange to say it leaves us in

ignorance whether the bones found there were human or not; one thing,

however, seems tolerably certain, that the arrow-heads and armour were

of iron, from the state of rust they are described as being in, and

this so far is indicative of a post-Roman date.

Another curious fact is mentioned by Camden. In his plate (page 122),

half plan, half elevation--at a spot marked C outside the vallum, men

are represented as making an excavation, and the reference is "Place

where men's bones are dug up." This is of no great value in so far as

Stonehenge itself is concerned, but it is curious from its analogy with

the place where the bones were found on Hakpen Hill, and may serve as

an indication to the spot where the bones may yet be found in Avebury.

As we shall see further on, there are strong reasons for believing

that the principal interment at least was not inside the circle, but

situated externally on one side.

In more modern times, Sir R. Colt Hoare adds--"We have found, in

digging (within the circle), several fragments of Roman as well as

coarse British pottery, parts of the head and horns of deer and other

animals, and a large barbed arrow-head of iron," thus confirming what

Aubrey tells us of the Duke of Buckingham's excavation to the fullest

extent. Mr. Cunnington also dug near the altar to a depth of nearly 6

feet, and found the chalk had been moved to that depth. At about the

depth of 3 feet he found some Roman pottery. Soon after the fall of the

great trilithon, in 1797, he dug out some of the earth that had fallen

into the excavation, and "found fragments of fine black Roman pottery,

and since then another piece on the same spot."[125]

No excavation in the area has been undertaken since Sir R. Colt Hoare's

day, but as both he and Mr. Cunnington were experienced diggers, and

perfectly faithful recorders of what they found, it seems impossible

to doubt, from the finding of iron armour and Roman pottery in such

places, and at such depths that the building must have been erected

after the Romans settled in this island. As no one now will probably

be found to adopt Inigo Jones' theory that it was built by the Romans

themselves, we must look to some date after their departure to which we

may assign its erection.

* * * * *

For the written history of Stonehenge we are unfortunately forced

to rely principally on Jeffrey of Monmouth, who, though a recorder

of historical events, was also a fabulist of the most exuberant

imagination. It is consequently easy to throw discredit on his

testimony, and some consider themselves justified in putting it aside

altogether. If, however, we are to reject every mediæval author who

records miracles, or adorns his tale with fables, we may as well shut

up our books at once, and admit that, between the departure of the

Romans and the arrival of the Normans, the history of England is a mere

confused jumble, in which may be found the names of some persons and

of the battles they fought with one another, but nothing more. It is

an easy process, and may be satisfactory to some minds. The attempt

to separate the wheat from the chaff is a more tedious and laborious

task, surrounded by difficulties, and open to criticism, but it is one

that must be undertaken if truth is to be arrived at. In the present

instance the choice of difficulties seems to be clear. Either we must

reject the history of Jeffrey as entirely fabulous and unworthy of

credit, or admit his principal statement that Stonehenge was erected by

Aurelius Ambrosius as a monument to the memory of the British chiefs

treacherously slain by Hengist.

The first account we have of the event which led to its erection is

in Nennius, who lived much nearer to the time of the occurrence than

Jeffrey, who copied his narrative. It is as follows:--The Saxons having

been defeated in several actions on the coast of Kent by Vortimir,

were shut up in Thanet and forced to wait till they could summon

succour from home. When these arrived, Hengist, before attempting

open force, had recourse to stratagem, and at a feast held at the

palace or monastery at Amesbury, to which it was agreed all should

come unarmed, three hundred British nobles were treacherously slain by

the followers of Hengist, who had concealed their weapons under their

cloaks. War ensued on this, and lasted apparently for four years,

when Ambrosius, who had succeeded to Vortigern, forced the Saxons to

sue for peace.[126] That being established, Jeffrey represents him

as erecting Stonehenge by the aid of Merlin as a monument to those

who were so treacherously slain by Hengist. The massacre took place

apparently in the year 462, and the erection of Stonehenge consequently

may have been commenced about the year 466, and carried on during the

following years, say down to 470 A.D. If he had been content

to tell the story in as few words as are used here, it probably never

would have been doubted; but Merlin, in the first place, has a bad

character, for he is mixed up with the mediæval romances which made

the story of Arthur famous but fabulous, and the mode in which he

is represented by Jeffrey as bringing the stones from Ireland is

enough to induce incredulity in all sober minds.[127] As I understand

the narrative, it is this--there existed on a mountain in Ireland a

monument something like Stonehenge, which Merlin, when consulted,

advised the King to copy. This certainly is the view taken of the

matter by Geraldus Cambrensis in 1187, inasmuch as he tells us, that

in the spot referred to "similar stones, erected in a similar manner,

were to be seen in his day," though in the same sentence he tells us,

that they, or others like them, were removed to Salisbury Plain by

Merlin.[128] As he probably speaks of what he saw with his own eyes,

his words furnish tolerably clear evidence that Merlin had not removed

what still remained at Kildare so many centuries after his death. It

is also evidence, however, that the design of the monument was brought

from Ireland, and even copied from a circle, the remains of which may

probably still, if looked for, be found. So far as we know there was

nothing like Stonehenge existing in England, nor in France, in the

5th century. But, as we shall presently see, there probably may have

been in Ireland. The only trilithons I know of elsewhere are three in

a monument in the Deer Park near Sligo. They are small and simulate

portals, but they are more like Stonehenge than any else now known.

At the age we are now speaking of Ireland had contrived to nurse her

old traditions uninfluenced by Roman or foreign examples, and had

attained to that stage in art which would enable her to elaborate such

a style of architecture. While in England it is most improbable that

anything so purely original could have been elaborated during the Roman

occupation of the island. Still a monument like this must have had a

prototype, and unless we can prove its existence here before Cæsar's

time, it is to Ireland or some foreign country that we must look

for the model that suggested the design. But, after all, are we not

fighting with a shadow? May it not be that the tradition of a monument

being brought from Ireland applies only to the blue stones? I have been

assured by competent geologists, though I have not seen the fact stated

in any form I can quote, that these belong to rocks not found in Great

Britain, but which are common in Ireland. If this is so, there would

be no greater difficulty in bringing them from the Sister Island than

from Wales or Cornwall. Once on board ship the difference of distance

is nothing. If they did come from Ireland nothing is more likely than

that, after a lapse of eight or ten centuries, the facts belonging

really only to a part should be applied to the whole; and in that case

the aid of Merlin or of some equally powerful magician would certainly

have become indispensable. In that age, at least, I do not know any

other agency that could have accomplished the transference, and I am

not at all surprised, under the circumstances, that Jeffrey arrived at

the same conclusion.

The true explanation of the mystery seems to be, that the design of

Stonehenge may have come from Ireland, the native style of art having

been in abeyance in England during the Roman occupation, and that the

blue stones most probably came from the Sister Island, which is quite

enough to account for the Merlin myth; but of all this we shall be

better able to judge when we have discussed the Irish antiquities of

the same age.

To return to our history, however, a little further on Jeffrey asserts

that Aurelius himself was buried "near the convent of Ambrius within

the Giant's Dance (chorea gigantum), which in his lifetime he had

commanded to be made."[129] As far as it goes, this is a distinct

assertion that the place was used for burial, otherwise from the

context we would gather that the Britons slain by Hengist were buried

in the cemetery attached to the monastery, and that Stonehenge was

consequently a cenotaph and not a monument. But again, in recording

the life of Constantine, the nephew and successor of Arthur, after

relating how he defeated the Saxons and took vengeance on the nephews

of Mordred, he goes on to say--"Three years after this he was killed

by Conan, and buried close to Uther Pendragon, within the structure of

stones which was set up with wonderful art, not far from Salisbury,

and called in the English tongue Stonehenge."[130] This last event,

though no date is given, must have occurred some time between 546, or

four years after Arthur's death, and 552, the date of the battle of

Banbury Hill, where Conan his successor commanded. Assuming for the

moment that this may be the case, may it not suffice to explain one of

the mysteries of Stonehenge, the presence of the pairs of blue stones

inside the choir? Why may we not suppose that these were erected in

memory of the kings or others who were buried in front of them? Why

may not Aurelius and Constantine have been buried in front of the two

small pairs at either end of the so-called altar stone? If this were

so, and it appears to me extremely probable that it was, the last

remains of the mist that hangs over the uses of this monument would be

dispersed.

From the time of Jeffrey (1147) all subsequent mediæval historians

adopt the account of these events given by him, with occasional but

generally slight variations, and even modern critics are inclined to

accept his account of Constantine and Conan, as his narrative can

be checked by that of Gildas, who was cotemporary with these kings.

Similar statements are also found in the triads of the Welsh bards,

which some contend are original and independent authorities.[131]

My own impression is that they may be so, but I do not think their

independence has been so clearly established as to enable us to found

any argument upon it. On the other hand, the incidental allusion of

Jeffrey to the erection of Stonehenge as a cenotaph to the slain

nobles, and the subsequent burial there of the two kings, seems so

likely and natural that it is difficult to see why they should be

considered as inventions. The two last-named events, at all events, do

not add to the greatness or wonder of the kings, or of his narrative,

and are not such things as would be inserted in the page of history,

unless they were currently known, or were recorded somewhere in some

writing to which the historian had access.

Before quitting Stonehenge there is one other antiquity connected with

it, regarding which it is necessary to say a few words. Both in Sir R.

Colt Hoare's plan and the Ordnance Survey, there are marked two oblong

enclosures called the greater and lesser "Cursus," and along which

the antiquaries of the last century amused themselves by picturing

the chariot races of the Ancient Britons, though as they ascribed the

introduction of races to the Romans, they admitted that they must have

been formed after the subjection of the island by that people.[132] The

greater cursus is about a mile and three-quarters long, by 110 yards

wide. The smaller is so indistinct that only its commencement can be

identified; but even as concerns the larger, I walked twice across it

without perceiving its existence, though I was looking for it, and no

one I fancy would remark it if his attention were not turned to it.

Its boundary mounds never could have been 3 feet high, and now in many

places are very nearly obliterated.

That these alignments were once race-courses, appears to me one of the

most improbable of the various conjectures which have been hazarded

with regard even to Stonehenge. No Roman race-course, that we know

of, omitted to provide for the horses returning at least once past

the place they started from, and no course was even a mile, much less

a mile and three-quarters long. What sort of horse-races the British

indulged in before the Conquest I don't know, nor will I hazard an

opinion on the subject; but if they wanted the races to be seen, there

are several beautiful and appropriate spots close at hand where they

could have laid out a longer course along one of the bottoms, where

tens of thousands might conveniently have witnessed the sport from

the sloping banks on either hand, whereas here only the front rank

could have seen the race at all, and that imperfectly. It may also be

remarked that the east end of the cursus is closed by a mound which

must have been a singularly awkward position for the judges, though

that is the place assigned to them by Sir Richard; and the west end is

cut off also by an embankment, behind which are several tumuli on the

course, which seems a very unlikely racing arrangement.

But if not race-courses, what were they? If any one will turn back

to woodcut No. 12, p. 55, representing the alignments at Merivale

bridge, and compare them with the cursus as shown in woodcut No. 26,

p. 102, representing the ground about Stonehenge, I think he must

perceive that the two cursus, if complete, would occupy exactly the

same relative position with regard to Stonehenge--on a much larger

scale of course--as those at Dartmoor do to the circle there. The

arrangements are so similar that the purposes can hardly be different.

At first sight this seems to tell against the battle theory. We know

of no battle fought on Salisbury Plain. This, however, is the merest

negative assumption possible. We know that the massacre at Amesbury was

followed by a four years' war, between Ambrosius and the Saxons.[133]

Battles there must have been, and many, and what so likely as that the

crowning victory should have been fought in the immediate proximity of

the capital of one of the contending parties. If these cursus do mark

the battle-field, it will at once account for the somewhat anomalous

position of Stonehenge. What is so likely as that the victor should

have chosen the field of his final victory to erect there a monument

to the memory of those whose treacherous slaughter had been the cause

of the war? Of course this is only an hypothesis, and it is only put

forward as such, but it seems to me infinitely nearer the truth than

that of the gratuitous suggestion of a race-course, and looks like one

of the coincidences sure to occur when the investigation is on the

right path towards the true solution.

* * * * *

The first impression that the narrative of the preceding pages will

convey to most readers, will probably be that there must be something

more to be said on the subject, or that something important is left

out. If, it may be argued, the case is so clear as here stated, it

could never have been doubted, and must have been accepted long ago.

All I can say in answer is, that if anything is omitted I am not aware

of it. Everything I know of has been stated as fully and as fairly as

seemed necessary for its being clearly understood. In this instance it

must be remembered that the usual arguments drawn from the division

into stone, bronze, and iron ages hardly come into play. Nothing has

been found inside Stonehenge but iron and Roman pottery. Even admitting

the barrows in the immediate proximity of Stonehenge to be coeval,

before their testimony can be of any avail, it must be ascertained when

men ceased to be buried in barrows, and when a man might not wish a

bronze spear-head to be entombed with him as a relic, even if he did

not fight with it in his lifetime. Even then, however, the evidence

would be too indistinct to outweigh that of the finds inside the circle.

If, after what has been said above, any one still maintains that

Stonehenge is a temple, and not sepulchral, we have no common ground

from which to reason, and need not attempt it. Or if any one as

familiar with the locality as I am personally, or who has studied the

Ordnance maps with the same care, likes to argue that the barrows came

to Stonehenge, and not Stonehenge to the barrows, we see things with

such different eyes that we equally want a common basis for argument.

In a case like the present, however, the great difficulty to be

overcome is not so much cool argument and close reasoning, as a certain

undefined feeling that a monument must be old because we know so little

about it. "Omne ignotum pro antiquo" is a matter of faith with many

who will listen to no argument to the contrary, and in the case of

Stonehenge the false notion has been so fostered by nearly all those

who have written about it since the time of James I., that it will be

very difficult now to overthrow it. Those who adhere to it, however,

hardly realize how dark the ages were between the departure of the

Romans and the time of Alfred the Great, and how much may have been

done in that time without any record of it coming down to our day. Even

if we give them all the megalithic monuments we possess, it is very

little indeed for so large a population in so long a time.

Even at a much later period of English history than we are now occupied

with, it is wonderful how little we should know of our monuments if we

depended on the "litera scripta" for our information. Any one who is

familiar with the guide-books of the last, or beginning of the present

century, will see what dire confusion of dates existed with regard to

the erection of our greatest cathedrals and mediæval monuments. Saxon

and Norman were confounded everywhere, and the distinction of any of

the styles between Early English and Perpendicular was not appreciated,

and frequently the dates were reversed. In fact, it was not till

Rickman took the matter in hand that order emerged out of chaos, and he

succeeded because his constructive knowledge enabled him to perceive

progressive developments which formed true sequences, and he was thus

able to supply the want of written information. Every tyro now can fix

a date to every moulding in any of our mediæval buildings, but if we

had only written history to depend upon, in nine cases out of ten he

could not prove that the building was not erected by the Romans or the

Phœnicians, or anybody else. If this is the case in an age when

writing was so common as between the Conquest and the Reformation,

should we be surprised if we find matters so much darker between the

departure of the Romans and Alfred, when written history hardly helps

us at all? But Rickman's method will, when applied to Stonehenge and

similar monuments, if I am not very much mistaken, render their dates

nearly as clear as those of our mediæval monuments have been rendered

by the same method.

None but those who have had occasion specially to study the subject

can be aware how devoid of all literary records the period is of

which we are now treating. So meagre and so scarce are they, that

many well-informed persons doubt whether such a person as King Arthur

ever lived; and scarcely one of his great actions is established by

anything like satisfactory contemporary testimony. Yet, in all ages,

and in all countries where histories either written or oral exist, they

are filled with the exploits of favourite national heroes--as Arthur

was--which, even where they are fullest and most diffuse, it is the

rarest possible thing to find in them a record of the building of any

temple or tomb. From the building of the Parthenon to the completion

of Henry VIII.'s Chapel, the notices of buildings in general histories

are as few and meagre as may be, and are comprised in a few paragraphs

scattered through many hundred volumes. No one, I am convinced, who

has thought twice on the subject, would expect to find any notice of

buildings in the few pages which are all we possess of history between

the departure of the Romans and the time of the Venerable Bede; yet the

absence of record is the argument which, if I am not mistaken, has had

more influence on the popular mind than almost any other. Too generally

it is assumed that, as we know nothing about them, they must be old. To

me, on the contrary, nothing appears so extremely improbable as that

the builders, while leaving no record of their exploits, should have

left any written account of the erection of the Rude Stone Monuments.

One other point seems worth alluding to before concluding this chapter,

which is that nothing has been advanced, so far as I know, that would

lead us to suppose that the people of this island were, before the time

of the Romans, either more numerous or more powerful, and consequently

more capable of erecting such monuments as Stonehenge and Avebury,

than they were after that people had resided for four centuries among

them. All our existing knowledge seems to tend to a diametrically

opposite conclusion, and now that the day for vague declamation and _à

priori_ reasoning is past, if any proof to the contrary can be brought

forward, it would be well that it were now adduced, for otherwise

judgment may go by default. If we mistake not, the case must be strong

and clear that is to outweigh the evidence just brought forward in

reference to the two monuments the use and age of which we have just

been discussing.

[Footnote 77: These particulars are taken from a careful survey

made by Sir R. Colt Hoare, in 1812, and published in his 'Ancient

Wilts,' vol. ii. pl. xiii. p. 70 _et seq._]

[Footnote 78: 'Stonehenge and Avebury,' p. 34.]

[Footnote 79: Haca, or Haco, according to Kemble, was some mythical

person with a very Danish name which is found in Hampshire and

Berkshire, as well as here. Pen seems to mean merely enclosure, as

it does now in English. See Kemble, in 'Journal Arch. Inst.' xiv.

p. 134.]

[Footnote 80: 'Bell. Gall.' vi. 17.]

[Footnote 81: 'Sculptured Stones of Scotland,' ii. p. xli.]

[Footnote 82: Thurnam, 'Crania Britannica;' London, 1856 to 1865.]

[Footnote 83: 'Codex diplomaticus Ævi Saxonici,' v. p. 238, No.

1120.]

[Footnote 84: Stukeley, 'Stonehenge and Abury,' p. 27.]

[Footnote 85: The particulars are taken from a pamphlet entitled

'Excavations at Avebury, under the direction of the Secretary of

the Wiltshire Archæol. and Nat. Hist. Society,' printed at Devizes,

but, so far as I know, not yet published.]

[Footnote 86: 'Sculptured Stones of Scotland,' vol. i. introd. p.

xx.]

[Footnote 87: A plan of it was published about Stukeley's time by

a Mr. Twining, in a pamphlet, which was written to prove that this

group of monuments was erected by Agricola, to represent a map of

England! A plan accompanies it, which shows all the avenues as

straight; but what weight can possibly be attached to any evidence

coming from a man with such a theory as this?]

[Footnote 88: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' ii. p. 63.]

[Footnote 89: Camden, 'Britannia,' 127.]

[Footnote 90: 'Archæologia,' xxviii. p. 399 _et seq._]

[Footnote 91: 'Journal Wiltshire Archæol. and Nat. Hist. Society,'

vii. p. 1861.]

[Footnote 92: Curiously enough these dimensions are almost

identical with those of the mound erected by the Belgic-Dutch, to

commemorate the part they did not take in the battle of Waterloo.

Its dimensions are 130 feet high, 544 feet in diameter, and 1632

feet in circumference. The angle of the slope of the sides is

lower, being 27½ degrees, owing to the smaller diameter of the

flat top, which is only 40 feet.]

[Footnote 93: Douglas, 'Nenia Brit.' p. 161. See also Salisbury

volume of the Archæological Institute, p. 74.]

[Footnote 94: 'Journal Royal Asiatic Soc.' xiii. p. 164; and Major

Skinner's plan of Anurajapura.]

[Footnote 95: Wilson, 'Ariana Antiqua,' p. 41; and Masson's

'Memoir,' _passim_.]

[Footnote 96: Sir R. C. Hoare, 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. pl. ii. fig.

8.]

[Footnote 97: Ibid. i. p. 191.]

[Footnote 98: 'Archæologia,' xxx. p. 300 _et seq._]

[Footnote 99: 'Arch. Journ.,' xxiv. pp. 92 and 319.]

[Footnote 100: Ibid. p. 100.]

[Footnote 101: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' ii. 5. Unfortunately there

is no scale attached to the plan of the Marden Circle, and no

dimensions quoted in the text.]

[Footnote 102: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' p. 7.]

[Footnote 103: I adopt Dr. Guest's dates for this part of the

subject, not only because I think them most probable, but because I

think, from his knowledge and the special attention he has bestowed

on the subject, he is most likely to be right. See _Salisbury

Volume Arch. Journal_, p. 62.]

[Footnote 104: 'Athenæum Journal,' Dec. 13, 1865.]

[Footnote 105: 'Mon. Brit.' p. 15.]

[Footnote 106: 'Salisbury Vol.' p. 63.]

[Footnote 107: 'Mon. Brit.' p. 15.]

[Footnote 108: Colt Hoare, 'Ancient Wiltshire,' ii. p. 22.]

[Footnote 109: Saxon Chronicle, in 'Mon. Brit.' p. 304.]

[Footnote 110: 'Jeffrey of Monmouth,' ix. p. 4.]

[Footnote 111: The history of the plan given on page 92, and from

which all the dimensions in the text are quoted, is this. When I

was staying with my friend, Mr. Hawkshaw, the eminent engineer,

at Eversley, I was complaining of the incorrectness of all the

published plans, when he said, "I have a man in my office whose

plans are the very essence of minute accuracy. I will send him

down to make one for you." He did so, and his plan--to a scale of

10 feet to 1 inch, is before me. I afterwards took this plan to

Stonehenge, and identified the position and character of every

stone marked upon it.]

[Footnote 112: I am almost afraid to allude to it even in a note,

lest some one should accuse me of founding any theory upon it,

like Piazzi Smyth's British inches in the Pyramids, but it is a

curious coincidence that nearly all the British circles are set

out in two dimensions. The smaller class are 100 feet, the larger

are 100 metres in diameter. They are all more than 100 yards. The

latter measure is at all events certainly accidental, so far as

we at present know, but as a nomenclature and "memoria technica,"

the employment of the terms may be useful, provided it is clearly

understood that no theory is based upon it.]

[Footnote 113: 'Historia,' in 'Mon. Brit.' 694.]

[Footnote 114: 'Tree and Serpent Worship,' by the author, plates

iii. _et seq._]

[Footnote 115: Twenty Chinese coolies would carry any one of them

up in a week.]

[Footnote 116: 'Serie Centrale' by Comte Melchior de Vogüé. Though

this work was commenced some ten years ago, and subscriptions

obtained, it is still incomplete. No text has yet been published,

and no maps, which makes the identification of the places

singularly difficult.]

[Footnote 117: Vide _ante_, footnote, p. 15.]

[Footnote 118: 'Topography of Jerusalem,' by the Author, p. 58.]

[Footnote 119: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. p. 178, plan vi.]

[Footnote 120: Sir John Lubbock, 'Prehistoric Times,' p. 116.]

[Footnote 121: Sir R. Colt Hoare, 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. p. 145.]

[Footnote 122: The name is written as Sidbury in the Ordnance maps.]

[Footnote 123: 'Archæologia,' vii. pp. 132-134.]

[Footnote 124: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. p. 154.]

[Footnote 125: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. p. 150.]

[Footnote 126: Nennius, in 'Mon. Brit.' p. 69.]

[Footnote 127: Jeffrey, viii. c. 9.]

[Footnote 128: "Fuit antiquis temporibus in Hiberniâ lapidum

congeries admiranda, quæ et Chorea gigantum dicta fuit, quia

gigantes eam ab ultimis Africæ partibus in Hiberniam attulerunt et

in Kildarienes planicie non procul a Castro Nasensi, tam ingenii

quam virium opere mirabiliter erexerunt. Unde et ibidem lapides

quidam aliis simillimi similique modo erecti usque in hodiernum

conspiciuntur. Mirum qualiter tanti lapides tot etiam et tam magni

unquam in unum locum vel congesti fuerint vel erecti: quantoque

artificiis lapidibus tam magnis et altis alii superpositi sint

non minores; qui sic in pendulo et tanquam in inani suspendi

videntur ut potius artificum studio quam suppositorum podio

inniti videantur. Juxta Britannicam historiam lapides istos rex

Britonum Aurelius Ambrosius divina Merlini diligentia de Hiberniâ

in Britanniam advehi procuravit; et ut tanti facinoris egregium

aliquod memoriale relinqueret eodem ordine et arte qua prius in

loco constituit ubi occultis Saxonum cultris Britanniæ flos occidit

et sub pacis obtentu nequitiæ telis male tecta regni juventus

occubuit."--_Topogr. Hiberniæ_, vol. ii. ch. xviii.

If we could trust Ware, they still existed in the beginning of

the last century. He speaks of "Saxa illæ in gentia et rudia

quæ in planitie non longe a Naasa in agro Kildariensi et alibi

visuntur."--_Hist. Hib._, xxiv. 103.]

[Footnote 129: 'Hist. Brit.' viii. ch. xvi.]

[Footnote 130: 'Hist. Brit.' xi. ch. iv.]

[Footnote 131: This is the principal argument of Herbert's 'Cyclops

Christianus.']

[Footnote 132: 'Ancient Wiltshire,' i. p. 158. See also woodcut No.

26, p. 102. The dotted part of the smaller cursus is a restoration

of my own.]

[Footnote 133: _Vide ante_, p. 107.]

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