CHAPTER XVIII

The Origin of Machu Picchu

Some other day I hope to tell of the work of clearing and excavating

Machu Picchu, of the life lived by its citizens, and of the ancient

towns of which it was the most important. At present I must rest

content with a discussion of its probable identity. Here was a powerful

citadel tenable against all odds, a stronghold where a mere handful

of defenders could prevent a great army from taking the place by

assault. Why should any one have desired to be so secure from capture

as to have built a fortress in such an inaccessible place?

The builders were not in search of fields. There is so little arable

land here that every square yard of earth had to be terraced in

order to provide food for the inhabitants. They were not looking for

comfort or convenience. Safety was their primary consideration. They

were sufficiently civilized to practice intensive agriculture,

sufficiently skillful to equal the best masonry the world has ever

seen, sufficiently ingenious to make delicate bronzes, and sufficiently

advanced in art to realize the beauty of simplicity. What could have

induced such a people to select this remote fastness of the Andes,

with all its disadvantages, as the site for their capital, unless

they were fleeing from powerful enemies.

The thought will already have occurred to the reader that the Temple

of the Three Windows at Machu Picchu fits the words of that native

writer who had "heard from a child the most ancient traditions and

histories," including the story already quoted from Sir Clements

Markham's translation that Manco Ccapac, the first Inca, "ordered

works to be executed at the place of his birth; consisting of a

masonry wall with three windows, which were emblems of the house

of his fathers whence he descended. The first window was called

'Tampu-tocco.' " Although none of the other chroniclers gives the

story of the first Inca ordering a memorial wall to be built at the

place of his birth, they nearly all tell of his having come from a

place called Tampu-tocco, "an inn or country place remarkable for

its windows." Sir Clements Markham, in his "Incas of Peru," refers

to Tampu-tocco as "the hill with the three openings or windows."

The place assigned by all the chroniclers as the location of the

traditional Tampu-tocco, as has been said, is Paccaritampu, about nine

miles southwest of Cuzco. Paccaritampu has some interesting ruins and

caves, but careful examination shows that while there are more than

three openings to its caves, there are no windows in its buildings. The

buildings of Machu Picchu, on the other hand, have far more windows

than any other important ruin in Peru. The climate of Paccaritampu,

like that of most places in the highlands, is too severe to invite

or encourage the use of windows. The climate of Machu Picchu is mild,

consequently the use of windows was natural and agreeable.

So far as I know, there is no place in Peru where the ruins consist of

anything like a "masonry wall with three windows" of such a ceremonial

character as is here referred to, except at Machu Picchu. It would

certainly seem as though the Temple of the Three Windows, the most

significant structure within the citadel, is the building referred

to by Pachacuti Yamqui Saleamayhua.

------

FIGURE

The Masonry Wall with Three Windows, Machu Picchu

------

The principal difficulty with this theory is that while the

first meaning of tocco in Holguin's standard Quichua dictionary is

"ventana" or "window," and while "window" is the only meaning given

this important word in Markham's revised Quichua dictionary (1908),

a dictionary compiled from many sources, the second meaning of tocco

given by Holguin is "alacena," "a cupboard set in a wall." Undoubtedly

this means what we call, in the ruins of the houses of the Incas, a

niche. Now the drawings, crude as they are, in Sir Clements Markham's

translation of the Salcamayhua manuscript, do give the impression

of niches rather than of windows. Does Tampu-tocco mean a tampu

remarkable for its niches? At Paccaritampu there do not appear to be

any particularly fine niches; while at Machu Picchu, on the other hand,

there are many very beautiful niches, especially in the cave which has

been referred to as a "Royal Mausoleum." As a matter of fact, nearly

all the finest ruins of the Incas have excellent niches. Since niches

were so common a feature of Inca architecture, the chances are that Sir

Clements is right in translating Salcamayhua as he did and in calling

Tampu-tocco "the hill with the three openings or windows." In any case

Machu Picchu fits the story far better than does Paccaritampu. However,

in view of the fact that the early writers all repeat the story that

Tampu-tocco was at Paccaritampu, it would be absurd to say that they

did not know what they were talking about, even though the actual

remains at or near Paccaritampu do not fit the requirements.

It would be easier to adopt Paccaritampu as the site of Tampu-tocco

were it not for the legal records of an inquiry made by Toledo at the

time when he put the last Inca to death. Fifteen Indians, descended

from those who used to live near Las Salinas, the important salt works

near Cuzco, on being questioned, agreed that they had heard their

fathers and grandfathers repeat the tradition that when the first Inca,

Manco Ccapac, captured their lands, he came from Tampu-tocco. They did

not say that the first Inca came from Paccaritampu, which, it seems

to me, would have been a most natural thing for them to have said if

this were the general belief of the natives. In addition there is the

still older testimony of some Indians born before the arrival of the

first Spaniards, who were examined at a legal investigation in 1570. A

chief, aged ninety-two, testified that Manco Ccapac came out of a cave

called Tocco, and that he was lord of the town near that cave. Not

one of the witnesses stated that Manco Ccapac came from Paccaritampu,

although it is difficult to imagine why they should not have done

so if, as the contemporary historians believed, this was really the

original Tampu-tocco. The chroniclers were willing enough to accept

the interesting cave near Paccaritampu as the place where Manco

Ccapac was born, and from which he came to conquer Cuzco. Why were

the sworn witnesses so reticent? It seems hardly possible that they

should have forgotten where Tampu-tocco was supposed to have been. Was

their reticence due to the fact that its actual whereabouts had been

successfully kept secret? Manco Ccapac's home was that Tampu-tocco

to which the followers of Pachacuti VI fled with his body after the

overthrow of the old régime, a very secluded and holy place. Did they

know it was in the same fastnesses of the Andes to which in the days

of Pizarro the young Inca Manco had fled from Cuzco? Was this the

cause of their reticence?

Certainly the requirements of Tampu-tocco are met at Machu Picchu. The

splendid natural defenses of the Grand Canyon of the Urubamba made it

an ideal refuge for the descendants of the Amautas during the centuries

of lawlessness and confusion which succeeded the barbarian invasions

from the plains to the east and south. The scarcity of violent

earthquakes and also its healthfulness, both marked characteristics

of Tampu-tocco, are met at Machu Picchu. It is worth noting that the

existence of Machu Picchu might easily have been concealed from the

common people. At the time of the Spanish Conquest its location might

have been known only to the Inca and his priests.

So, notwithstanding the belief of the historians, I feel it is

reasonable to conclude that the first name of the ruins at Machu Picchu

was Tampu-tocco. Here Pachacuti VI was buried; here was the capital of

the little kingdom where during the centuries between the Amautas and

the Incas there was kept alive the wisdom, skill, and best traditions

of the ancient folk who had developed the civilization of Peru.

It is well to remember that the defenses of Cuzco were of little avail

before the onslaught of the warlike invaders. The great organization

of farmers and masons, so successful in its ability to perform

mighty feats of engineering with primitive tools of wood, stone,

and bronze, had crumbled away before the attacks of savage hordes

who knew little of the arts of peace. The defeated leaders had to

choose a region where they might live in safety from their fierce

enemies. Furthermore, in the environs of Machu Picchu they found

every variety of climate--valleys so low as to produce the precious

coca, yucca, and plantain, the fruits and vegetables of the tropics;

slopes high enough to be suitable for many varieties of maize,

quinoa, and other cereals, as well as their favorite root crops,

including both sweet and white potatoes, oca, añu, and ullucu. Here,

within a few hours' journey, they could find days warm enough to dry

and cure the coca leaves; nights cold enough to freeze potatoes in

the approved aboriginal fashion.

Although the amount of arable land which could be made available with

the most careful terracing was not large enough to support a very

great population, Machu Picchu offered an impregnable citadel to the

chiefs and priests and their handful of followers who were obliged

to flee from the rich plains near Cuzco and the broad, pleasant

valley of Yucay. Only dire necessity and terror could have forced a

people which had reached such a stage in engineering, architecture,

and agriculture, to leave hospitable valleys and tablelands for rugged

canyons. Certainly there is no part of the Andes less fitted by nature

to meet the requirements of an agricultural folk, unless their chief

need was a safe refuge and retreat.

Here the wise remnant of the Amautas ultimately developed great

ability. In the face of tremendous natural obstacles they utilized

their ancient craft to wrest a living from the soil. Hemmed in

between the savages of the Amazon jungles below and their enemies

on the plateau above, they must have carried on border warfare for

generations. Aided by the temperate climate in which they lived,

and the ability to secure a wide variety of food within a few hours'

climb up or down from their towns and cities, they became a hardy,

vigorous tribe which in the course of time burst its boundaries, fought

its way back to the rich Cuzco Valley, overthrew the descendants

of the ancient invaders and established, with Cuzco as a capital,

the Empire of the Incas.

After the first Inca, Manco Ccapac, had established himself in Cuzco,

what more natural than that he should have built a fine temple in

honor of his ancestors. Ancestor worship was common to the Incas,

and nothing would have been more reasonable than the construction

of the Temple of the Three Windows. As the Incas grew in power and

extended their rule over the ancient empire of the Cuzco Amautas from

whom they traced their descent, superstitious regard would have led

them to establish their chief temples and palaces in the city of Cuzco

itself. There was no longer any necessity to maintain the citadel of

Tampu-tocco. It was probably deserted, while Cuzco grew and the Inca

Empire flourished.

As the Incas increased in power they invented various myths to account

for their origin. One of these traced their ancestry to the islands of

Lake Titicaca. Finally the very location of Manco Ccapac's birthplace

was forgotten by the common people--although undoubtedly known to the

priests and those who preserved the most sacred secrets of the Incas.

Then came Pizarro and the bigoted conquistadores. The native chiefs

faced the necessity of saving whatever was possible of the ancient

religion. The Spaniards coveted gold and silver. The most precious

possessions of the Incas, however, were not images and utensils, but

the sacred Virgins of the Sun, who, like the Vestal Virgins of Rome,

were from their earliest childhood trained to the service of the great

Sun God. Looked at from the standpoint of an agricultural people who

needed the sun to bring their food crops to fruition and keep them from

hunger, it was of the utmost importance to placate him with sacrifices

and secure the good effects of his smiling face. If he delayed his

coming or kept himself hidden behind the clouds, the maize would mildew

and the ears would not properly ripen. If he did not shine with his

accustomed brightness after the harvest, the ears of corn could not be

properly dried and kept over to the next year. In short, any unusual

behavior on the part of the sun meant hunger and famine. Consequently

their most beautiful daughters were consecrated to his service, as

"Virgins" who lived in the temple and ministered to the wants of

priests and rulers. Human sacrifice had long since been given up in

Peru and its place taken by the consecration of these damsels. Some

of the Virgins of the Sun in Cuzco were captured. Others escaped and

accompanied Manco into the inaccessible canyons of Uilcapampa.

It will be remembered that Father Calancha relates the trials of the

first two missionaries in this region, who at the peril of their lives

urged the Inca to let them visit the "University of Idolatry," at

"Vilcabamba Viejo," "the largest city" in the province. Machu Picchu

admirably answers its requirements. Here it would have been very

easy for the Inca Titu Cusi to have kept the monks in the vicinity

of the Sacred City for three weeks without their catching a single

glimpse of its unique temples and remarkable palaces. It would have

been possible for Titu Cusi to bring Friar Marcos and Friar Diego

to the village of Intihuatana near San Miguel, at the foot of the

Machu Picchu cliffs. The sugar planters of the lower Urubamba Valley

crossed the bridge of San Miguel annually for twenty years in blissful

ignorance of what lay on top of the ridge above them. So the friars

might easily have been lodged in huts at the foot of the mountain

without their being aware of the extent and importance of the Inca

"university." Apparently they returned to Puquiura with so little

knowledge of the architectural character of "Vilcabamba Viejo" that

no description of it could be given their friends, eventually to

be reported by Calancha. Furthermore, the difficult journey across

country from Puquiura might easily have taken "three days."

Finally, it appears from Dr. Eaton's studies that the last residents

of Machu Picchu itself were mostly women. In the burial caves which

we have found in the region roundabout Machu Picchu the proportion

of skulls belonging to men is very large. There are many so-called

"trepanned" skulls. Some of them seem to belong to soldiers injured

in war by having their skulls crushed in, either with clubs or

the favorite sling-stones of the Incas. In no case have we found

more than twenty-five skulls without encountering some "trepanned"

specimens among them. In striking contrast is the result of the

excavations at Machu Picchu, where one hundred sixty-four skulls

were found in the burial caves, yet not one had been "trepanned." Of

the one hundred thirty-five skeletons whose sex could be accurately

determined by Dr. Eaton, one hundred nine were females. Furthermore,

it was in the graves of the females that the finest artifacts were

found, showing that they were persons of no little importance. Not

a single representative of the robust male of the warrior type was

found in the burial caves of Machu Picchu.

Another striking fact brought out by Dr. Eaton is that some of the

female skeletons represent individuals from the seacoast. This fits in

with Calancha's statement that Titu Cusi tempted the monks not only

with beautiful women of the highlands, but also with those who came

from the tribes of the Yungas, or "warm valleys." The "warm valleys"

may be those of the rubber country, but Sir Clements Markham thought

the oases of the coast were meant.

Furthermore, as Mr. Safford has pointed out, among the artifacts

discovered at Machu Picchu was a "snuffing tube" intended for use with

the narcotic snuff which was employed by the priests and necromancers

to induce a hypnotic state. This powder was made from the seeds of

the tree which the Incas called huilca or uilca, which, as has been

pointed out in Chapter XI, grows near these ruins. This seems to me

to furnish additional evidence of the identity of Machu Picchu with

Calancha's "Vilcabamba."

It cannot be denied that the ruins of Machu Picchu satisfy the

requirements of "the largest city, in which was the University of

Idolatry." Until some one can find the ruins of another important place

within three days' journey of Pucyura which was an important religious

center and whose skeletal remains are chiefly those of women, I am

inclined to believe that this was the "Vilcabamba Viejo" of Calancha,

just as Espiritu Pampa was the "Vilcabamba Viejo" of Ocampo.

In the interesting account of the last Incas purporting to be by Titu

Cusi, but actually written in excellent Spanish by Friar Marcos,

he says that his father, Manco, fleeing from Cuzco went first "to

Vilcabamba, the head of all that province."

In the "Anales del Peru" Montesinos says that Francisco Pizarro,

thinking that the Inca Manco wished to make peace with him, tried

to please the Inca by sending him a present of a very fine pony and

a mulatto to take care of it. In place of rewarding the messenger,

the Inca killed both man and beast. When Pizarro was informed of this,

he took revenge on Manco by cruelly abusing the Inca's favorite wife,

and putting her to death. She begged of her attendants that "when she

should be dead they would put her remains in a basket and let it float

down the Yucay [or Urubamba] River, that the current might take it

to her husband, the Inca." She must have believed that at that time

Manco was near this river. Machu Picchu is on its banks. Espiritu

Pampa is not.

We have already seen how Manco finally established himself at Uiticos,

where he restored in some degree the fortunes of his house. Surrounded

by fertile valleys, not too far removed from the great highway which

the Spaniards were obliged to use in passing from Lima to Cuzco, he

could readily attack them. At Machu Picchu he would not have been

so conveniently located for robbing the Spanish caravans nor for

supplying his followers with arable lands.

There is abundant archeological evidence that the citadel of Machu

Picchu was at one time occupied by the Incas and partly built by them

on the ruins of a far older city. Much of the pottery is unquestionably

of the so-called Cuzco style, used by the last Incas. The more recent

buildings resemble those structures on the island of Titicaca said to

have been built by the later Incas. They also resemble the fortress of

Uiticos, at Rosaspata, built by Manco about 1537. Furthermore, they

are by far the largest and finest ruins in the mountains of the old

province of Uilcapampa and represent the place which would naturally

be spoken of by Titu Cusi as the "head of the province." Espiritu

Pampa does not satisfy the demands of a place which was so important

as to give its name to the entire province, to be referred to as

"the largest city."

It seems quite possible that the inaccessible, forgotten citadel of

Machu Picchu was the place chosen by Manco as the safest refuge for

those Virgins of the Sun who had successfully escaped from Cuzco in

the days of Pizarro. For them and their attendants Manco probably

built many of the newer buildings and repaired some of the older

ones. Here they lived out their days, secure in the knowledge that

no Indians would ever breathe to the conquistadores the secret of

their sacred refuge.

------

FIGURE

The Gorges, Opening Wide Apart, Reveal Uilcapampa's Granite Citadel,

the Crown of Inca Land: Machu Picchu

------

When the worship of the sun actually ceased on the heights of Machu

Picchu no one can tell. That the secret of its existence was so well

kept is one of the marvels of Andean history. Unless one accepts the

theories of its identity with "Tampu-tocco" and "Vilcabamba Viejo,"

there is no clear reference to Machu Picchu until 1875, when Charles

Wiener heard about it.

Some day we may be able to find a reference in one of the documents

of the sixteenth or seventeenth centuries which will indicate that

the energetic Viceroy Toledo, or a contemporary of his, knew of

this marvelous citadel and visited it. Writers like Cieza de Leon

and Polo de Ondegardo, who were assiduous in collecting information

about all the holy places of the Incas, give the names of many places

which as yet we have not been able to identify. Among them we may

finally recognize the temples of Machu Picchu. On the other hand,

it seems likely that if any of the Spanish soldiers, priests, or

other chroniclers had seen this citadel, they would have described

its chief edifices in unmistakable terms.

Until further light can be thrown on this fascinating problem it

seems reasonable to conclude that at Machu Picchu we have the ruins of

Tampu-tocco, the birthplace of the first Inca, Manco Ccapac, and also

the ruins of a sacred city of the last Incas. Surely this granite

citadel, which has made such a strong appeal to us on account of

its striking beauty and the indescribable charm of its surroundings,

appears to have had a most interesting history. Selected about 800

A.D. as the safest place of refuge for the last remnants of the

old régime fleeing from southern invaders, it became the site of the

capital of a new kingdom, and gave birth to the most remarkable family

which South America has ever seen. Abandoned, about 1300, when Cuzco

once more flashed into glory as the capital of the Peruvian Empire,

it seems to have been again sought out in time of trouble, when in

1534 another foreign invader arrived--this time from Europe--with a

burning desire to extinguish all vestiges of the ancient religion. In

its last state it became the home and refuge of the Virgins of the

Sun, priestesses of the most humane cult of aboriginal America. Here,

concealed in a canyon of remarkable grandeur, protected by art and

nature, these consecrated women gradually passed away, leaving no

known descendants, nor any records other than the masonry walls

and artifacts to be described in another volume. Whoever they were,

whatever name be finally assigned to this site by future historians,

of this I feel sure--that few romances can ever surpass that of the

granite citadel on top of the beetling precipices of Machu Picchu,

the crown of Inca Land.

Glossary

Añu: A species of nasturtium with edible roots.

Aryballus: A bottle-shaped vase with pointed bottom.

Azequia: An irrigation ditch or conduit.

Bar-hold: A stone cylinder or pin, let into a gatepost in such a way

as to permit the gate bar to be tied to it. Sometimes the bar-hold

is part of one of the ashlars of the gatepost. Bar-holds are usually

found in the gateway of a compound or group of Inca houses.

Coca: Shrub from which cocaine is extracted. The dried leaves are

chewed to secure the desired deadening effect of the drug.

Conquistadores: Spanish soldiers engaged in the conquest of America.

Eye-bonder: A narrow, rough ashlar in one end of which a chamfered

hole has been cut. Usually about 2 feet long, 6 inches wide, and 2

inches thick, it was bonded into the wall of a gable at right angles

to its slope and flush with its surface. To it the purlins of the roof

could be fastened. Eye-bonders are also found projecting above the

lintel of a gateway to a compound. If the "bar-holds" were intended

to secure the horizontal bar of an important gate, these eye-bonders

may have been for a vertical bar.

Gobernador: The Spanish-speaking town magistrate. The alcaldes are

his Indian aids.

Habas beans: Broad beans.

Huaca: A sacred or holy place or thing, sometimes a boulder. Often

applied to a piece of prehistoric pottery.

Mañana: To-morrow, or by and by. The "mañana habit" is Spanish-American

procrastination.

Mestizo: A half-breed of Spanish and Indian ancestry.

Milpa: A word used in Central America for a small farm or clearing. The

milpa system of agriculture involves clearing the forest by fire,

destroys valuable humus and forces the farmer to seek new fields

frequently.

Montaña: Jungle, forest. The term usually applied by Peruvians to

the heavily forested slopes of the Eastern Andean valleys and the

Amazon Basin.

Oca: Hardy, edible root, related to sheep sorrel.

Quebrada: A gorge or ravine.

Quipu: Knotted, parti-colored strings used by the ancient Peruvians

to keep records. A mnemonic device.

Roof-peg: A roughly cylindrical block of stone bonded into a gable

wall and allowed to project 12 or 15 inches on the outside. Used

in connection with "eye-bonders," the roof-pegs served as points to

which the roof could be tied down.

Sol: Peruvian silver dollar, worth about two shillings or a little

less than half a gold dollar.

Sorocho: Mountain-sickness.

Stone-peg: A roughly cylindrical block of stone bonded into the

walls of a house and projecting 10 or 12 inches on the inside so as

to permit of its being used as a clothes-peg. Stone-pegs are often

found alternating with niches and placed on a level with the lintels

of the niches.

Temblor: A slight earthquake.

Temporales: Small fields of grain which cannot be irrigated and so

depend on the weather for their moisture.

Teniente gobernador: Administrative officer of a small village

or hamlet.

Terremoto: A severe earthquake.

Tesoro: Treasure.

Tutu: A hardy variety of white potato not edible in a fresh state,

used for making chuño, after drying, freezing, and pressing out the

bitter juices.

Ulluca: An edible root.

Viejo: Old.

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(With G. K. Noble:)

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Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911, Orthoptera (Addenda to

the Acridiidae). Ibid., XLV, 585-586, 1913.

A. N. Caudell:

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The Distribution of Bird Life in the Urubamba Valley of

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Quichua Names of Sweet Potatoes. Journal of Washington Academy of

Sciences, VI, No. 4, 86-90, 1916.

Agriculture and Native Vegetation in Peru. Ibid., VI, No. 10, 284-293,

1916. Illus.

Staircase Farms of the Ancients. National Geographic Magazine, XXIX,

474-534, May, 1916. Illus.

Foot-Plow Agriculture in Peru. Smithsonian Report for 1918,

487-491. 4 pl.

Domestication of Animals in Peru. Journal of Heredity, x, 176-181,

April, 1919. Illus.

(With Alice C. Cook:)

Polar Bear Cacti. Journal of Heredity, Washington, D.C., VIII, 113-120,

March, 1917. Illus.

William H. Dall:

Some Landshells Collected by Dr. Hiram Bingham in Peru. Proceedings

of U.S. National Museum, XXXVIII, 177-182, 1911. Illus.

Reports on Landshells Collected in Peru in 1911 by The Yale

Expedition. Smithsonian Misc. Collections, LIX, No. 14, 12 pp., 1912.

Harrison G. Dyar:

Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911. Lepidoptera. Proceedings

of U.S. National Museum, XLV, 627-649, 1913.

George F. Eaton:

Report on the Remains of Man and Lower Animals from the Vicinity of

Cuzco. American Journal of Science, XXXIII, No. 196, 325-333, April,

1912. Illus.

Vertebrate Remains in the Cuzco Gravels. Ibid., XXXVI, No. 211, 3-14,

July, 1913. Illus.

Vertebrate Fossils from Ayusbamba, Peru. Ibid., XXXVII, No. 218,

141-154, February, 1914. 3 pl.

The Collection of Osteological Material from Machu

Picchu. Trans. Conn. Academy Arts and Sciences, v, 3-96, May,

1916. Illus., 39 pl., map.

William G. Erving, M.D.:

Medical Report of the Yale Peruvian Expedition. Yale Medical Journal,

XVIII, 325-335, April, 1912. 6 pl.

Alexander W. Evans:

Hepaticæ: Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911. Trans. Conn. Academy Arts

and Sciences, XVIII, 291-345, April, 1914.

Harry B. Ferris, M.D.:

The Indians of Cuzco and the Apurimac. Memoirs, American

Anthropological Assoc., III, No. 2, 59-148, 1916. 60 pl.

Anthropological Studies on the Quichua and Machiganga

Indians. Trans. Conn. Academy Arts and Sciences, XXV, 1-92, April,

1921. 21 pl., map.

Harry W. Foote:

(With W. H. Buell:)

The Composition, Structure and Hardness of some Peruvian Bronze

Axes. American Journal of Science, XXXIV, 128-132, August, 1912. Illus.

Herbert E. Gregory:

The Gravels at Cuzco. American Journal of Science, XXXVI, No. 211,

15-29, July, 1913. Illus., map.

The La Paz Gorge. Ibid., XXXVI, 141-150, August, 1913. Illus.

A Geographical Sketch of Titicaca, the Island of the Sun. Bulletin of

American Geographical Society, XLV, 561-575, August, 1913. 4 pl., map.

Geologic Sketch of Titicaca Island and Adjoining Areas. American

Journal of Science, XXXVI, No. 213, 187-213, September, 1913. Illus.,

maps.

Geologic Reconnaissance of the Ayusbamba Fossil Beds. Ibid., XXXVII,

No. 218, 125-140, February, 1914. Illus., map.

The Rodadero; A Fault Plane of Unusual Aspect. Ibid., XXXVII, No. 220,

289-298, April, 1914. Illus.

A Geologic Reconnaissance of the Cuzco Valley. Ibid., XLI, No. 241,

1-100, January, 1916. Illus., maps.

Osgood Hardy:

Cuzco and Apurimac. Bulletin of American Geographical Society, XLVI,

No. 7, 500-512, 1914. Illus., map.

The Indians of the Department of Cuzco. American Anthropologist, XXI,

1-27, January-March, 1919. 9 pl.

Sir Clements Markham:

Mr. Bingham in Vilcapampa, Geographical Journal, XXXVIII, No. 6,

590-591, Dec. 1911, 1 pl.

C. H. Mathewson:

A Metallographic Description of Some Ancient Peruvian Bronzes from

Machu Picchu. American Journal of Science, XL, No. 240, 525-602,

December, 1915. Illus., plates.

P. R. Myers:

Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911--Addendum to the

Hymenoptera-Ichneumonoidea. Proceedings of U.S. National Museum,

XLVII, 361-362, 1914.

S. A. Rohwer:

Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911--Hymenoptera, Superfamilies

Vespoidea and Sphecoidea. Proceedings of U.S. National Museum, XLIV,

439-454, 1913.

Leonhard Stejneger:

Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1911. Batrachians and

Reptiles. Proceedings of U.S. National Museum, XLV, 541-547, 1913.

Oldfield Thomas:

Report on the Mammalia Collected by Mr. Edmund Heller during Peruvian

Expedition of 1915. Proceedings of U.S. National Museum, LVIII,

217-249, 1920. 2 pl.

H. L. Viereck:

Results of Yale Peruvian Expedition of

1911. Hymenoptera-Ichneumonoidea. Proceedings of U.S. National Museum,

XLIV, 469-470, 1913.

R. S. Williams:

Peruvian Mosses. Bulletin of Torrey Botanical Club, XLIII, 323-334,

June, 1916. 4 pl.

NOTES

[1] Many people have asked me how to pronounce Machu Picchu. Quichua

words should always be pronounced as nearly as possible as they are

written. They represent an attempt at phonetic spelling. If the attempt

is made by a Spanish writer, he is always likely to put a silent

"h" at the beginning of such words as huilca which is pronounced

"weel-ka." In the middle of a word "h" is always sounded. Machu

Picchu is pronounced "Mah'-chew Pick'-chew." Uiticos is pronounced

"Weet'-ee-kos." Uilcapampa is pronounced "Weel'-ka-pahm-pah." Cuzco is

"Koos'-koh."

[2] A league, usually about 3 1/3 miles, is really the distance an

average mule can walk in an hour.

[3] Fernando Montesinos, an ecclesiastical lawyer of the seventeenth

century, appears to have gone to Peru in 1629 as the follower of

that well-known viceroy, the Count of Chinchon, whose wife having

contracted malaria was cured by the use of Peruvian bark or quinine

and was instrumental in the introduction of this medicine into

Europe, a fact which has been commemorated in the botanical name

of the genus cinchona. Montesinos was well educated and appears to

have given himself over entirely to historical research. He traveled

extensively in Peru and wrote several books. His history of the Incas

was spoiled by the introduction, in which, as might have been expected

of an orthodox lawyer, he contended that Peru was peopled under the

leadership of Ophir, the great-grandson of Noah! Nevertheless, one

finds his work to be of great value and the late Sir Clements Markham,

foremost of English students of Peruvian archeology, was inclined

to place considerable credence in his statements. His account of

pre-Hispanic Peru has recently been edited for the Hakluyt Society

by Mr. Philip A. Means of Harvard University.

[4] Another version of this event is that the quarrel was over a game

of chess between the Inca and Diego Mendez, another of the refugees,

who lost his temper and called the Inca a dog. Angered at the tone and

language of his guest, the Inca gave him a blow with his fist. Diego

Mendez thereupon drew a dagger and killed him. A totally different

account from the one obtained by Garcilasso from his informants is

that in a volume purporting to have been dictated to Friar Marcos by

Manco's son, Titu Cusi, twenty years after the event. I quote from

Sir Clements Markham's translation:

"After these Spaniards had been with my Father for several years in

the said town of Viticos they were one day, with much good fellowship,

playing at quoits with him; only them, my Father and me, who was then a

boy [ten years old]. Without having any suspicion, although an Indian

woman, named Banba, had said that the Spaniards wanted to murder the

Inca, my Father was playing with them as usual. In this game, just as

my Father was raising the quoit to throw, they all rushed upon him with

knives, daggers and some swords. My Father, feeling himself wounded,

strove to make some defence, but he was one and unarmed, and they were

seven fully armed; he fell to the ground covered with wounds, and they

left him for dead. I, being a little boy, and seeing my Father treated

in this manner, wanted to go where he was to help him. But they turned

furiously upon me, and hurled a lance which only just failed to kill

me also. I was terrified and fled amongst some bushes. They looked

for me, but could not find me. The Spaniards, seeing that my Father

had ceased to breathe, went out of the gate, in high spirits, saying,

'Now that we have killed the Inca we have nothing to fear.' But at

this moment the captain Rimachi Yupanqui arrived with some Antis,

and presently chased them in such sort that, before they could get

very far along a difficult road, they were caught and pulled from

their horses. They all had to suffer very cruel deaths and some were

burnt. Notwithstanding his wounds my Father lived for three days."

Another version is given by Montesinos in his Anales. It is more like

Titu Cusi's.

[5] A Spanish derivative from the Quichua mucha, "a kiss." Muchani

means "to adore, to reverence, to kiss the hands."

[6] Uiticos is probably derived from Uiticuni, meaning "to withdraw

to a distance."

[7] Described in "Across South America."

[8] On the 1915 Expedition Mr. Heller captured twelve new species

of mammals, but, as Mr. Oldfield Thomas says: "Of all the novelties,

by far the most interesting is the new Marsupial .... Members of the

family were previously known from Colombia and Ecuador." Mr. Heller's

discovery greatly extends the recent range of the kangaroo family.

[9] Mr. Safford says in his article on the "Identity of Cohoba"

(Journal of the Washington Academy of Sciences, Sept. 19, 1916):

"The most remarkable fact connected with Piptadenia peregrina, or

'tree-tobacco' is that ... the source of its intoxicating properties

still remains unknown." One of the bifurcated tubes."in the first

stages of manufacture," was found at Machu Picchu.

[10] See the illustrations in Chapters XVII and XVIII.

[11] Since the historical Uilcapampa is not geographically identical

with the modern Vilcabamba, the name applied to this river and the old

Spanish town at its source, I shall distinguish between the two by

using the correct, official spelling for the river and town, viz.,

Vilcabamba; and the phonetic spelling, Uilcapampa, for the place

referred to in the contemporary histories of the Inca Manco.

[12] In those days the term "Andes" appears to have been very limited

in scope, and was applied only to the high range north of Cuzco where

lived the tribe called Antis. Their name was given to the range. Its

culminating point was Mt. Salcantay.

[13] Titu Cusi was an illegitimate son of Manco. His mother was not

of royal blood and may have been a native of the warm valleys.

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