_Rome, May 20, 1848._--My health is much revived by the spring here,
as gloriously beautiful as the winter was dreary. We know nothing
of spring in our country. Here the soft and brilliant weather is
unbroken, except now and then by a copious shower, which keeps
everything fresh. The trees, the flowers, the bird-songs are in
perfection. I have enjoyed greatly my walks in the villas, where the
grounds are of three or four miles in extent, and like free nature in
the wood-glades and still paths; while they have an added charm in the
music of their many fountains, and the soft gleam, here and there, of
sarcophagus or pillar.
I have been a few days at Albano, and explored its beautiful environs
alone, to much greater advantage than I could last year, in the
carriage with my friends.
I went, also, to Frascati and Ostia, with an English family, who had
a good carriage, and were kindly, intelligent people, who could not
disturb the Roman landscape.
Now I am going into the country, where I can live very cheaply, even
keeping a servant of my own, without which guard I should not venture
alone into the unknown and wilder regions.
I have been so disconcerted by my Roman winter, that I dare not plan
decisively again. The enervating breath of Rome paralyzes my body, but
I know and love her. The expression, "City of the Soul," designates
her, and her alone.