_Florence, Sept_. 25, 1847.--I hope not to want a further remittance
for a long time. I shall not, if I can settle myself at Rome so as
to avoid spoliation. That is very difficult in this country. I have
suffered from it already. The haste, the fatigue, the frequent illness
in travelling, have tormented me. At Rome I shall settle myself for
five months, and make arrangements to the best of my judgment, and
with counsel of experienced friends, and have some hope of economy
while there; but am not sure, as much more vigilance than I can
promise is needed against the treachery of servants and the cunning of
landlords.
You are disappointed by my letter from Rome. But I did not feel equal
then to speaking of the things of Rome, and shall not, till better
acquaintance has steadied my mind. It is a matter of conscience with
me not to make use of crude impressions, and what they call here
"coffee-house intelligence," as travellers generally do. I prefer
skimming over the surface of things, till I feel solidly ready to
write.
Milan I left with great regret, and hope to return. I knew there a
circle of the aspiring youth, such as I have not in any other city.
I formed many friendships, and learned a great deal. One of the young
men, Guerrieri by name, (and of the famous Gonzaga family,) I really
love. He has a noble soul, the quietest sensibility, and a brilliant
and ardent, though not a great, mind. He is eight-and-twenty. After
studying medicine for the culture, he has taken law as his profession.
His mind and that of Hicks, an artist of our country now here, a
little younger, are two that would interest you greatly. Guerrieri
speaks no English; I speak French now as fluently as English, but
incorrectly. To make use of it, I ought to have learned it earlier.
Arriving here, Mr. Mozier, an American, who from a prosperous merchant
has turned sculptor, come hither to live, and promises much excellence
in his profession, urged me so much to his house, that I came. At
first, I was ill from fatigue, and staid several days in bed; but his
wife took tender care of me, and the quiet of their house and regular
simple diet have restored me. As soon as I have seen a few things
here, I shall go to Rome. On my way, I stopped at Parma,--saw the
works of Correggio and Parmegiano. I have now seen what Italy contains
most important of the great past; I begin to hope for her also a
great future,--the signs have improved so much since I came. I am most
fortunate to be here at this time.
Interrupted, as always. How happy I should be if my abode at Rome
would allow some chance for tranquil and continuous effort. But I dare
not hope much, from the difficulty of making any domestic arrangements
that can be relied on. The fruit of the moment is so precious, that I
must not complain. I learn much; but to do anything with what I learn
is, under such circumstances, impossible. Besides, I am in great need
of repose; I am almost inert from fatigue of body and spirit.