[Illustration]
TWO CENTURIES OF COSTUME IN AMERICA
MDCXX-MDCCCXX
ALICE MORSE EARLE
AUTHOR OF “SUN-DIALS AND ROSES OF YESTERDAY” “OLD TIME GARDENS,” ETC.
VOLUME I
Nineteen Hundred and Three
Madam Padishal and Child Madam Padishal and Child.
_To George P. Brett_
_“An honest Stationer (or Publisher) is he, that exercizeth his Mystery
(whether it be in printing, bynding or selling of Bookes) with more
respect to the glory of God & the publike aduantage than to his owne
Commodity & is both an ornament & a profitable member in a ciuill
Commonwealth.... If he be a Printer he makes conscience to exemplefy
his Coppy fayrely & truly. If he be a Booke-bynder, he is no meere
Bookeseller (that is) one who selleth meerely ynck & paper bundled up
together for his owne aduantage only: but he is a Chapman of Arts, of
wisdome, & of much experience for a little money.... The reputation of
Schollers is as deare unto him as his owne: For, he acknowledgeth that
from them his Mystery had both begining and means of continuance. He
heartely loues & seekes the Prosperity of his owne Corporation: Yet he
would not iniure the Uniuersityes to advantage it. In a word, he is
such a man that the State ought to cherish him; Schollers to loue him;
good Customers to frequent his shopp; and the whole Company of
Stationers to pray for him.”_
—GEORGE WITHER, 1625.
CONTENTS
VOL. I
I. APPAREL OF THE PURITAN AND PILGRIM FATHERS
II. DRESS OF THE NEW ENGLAND MOTHERS
III. ATTIRE OF VIRGINIA DAMES AND THEIR NEIGHBORS
IV. A VAIN PURITAN GRANDMOTHER
V. THE EVOLUTION OF COATS AND WAISTCOATS
VI. RUFFS AND BANDS
VII. CAPS AND BEAVERS IN COLONIAL DAYS
VIII. THE VENERABLE HOOD
IX. CLOAKS AND THEIR COUSINS
X. THE DRESS OF OLD-TIME CHILDREN
XI. PERUKES AND PERIWIGS
XII. THE BEARD
XIII. PATTENS, CLOGS, AND GOLOE-SHOES
XIV. BATTS AND BROAGS, BOOTS AND SHOES
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOLUME I
MADAM PADISHAL AND CHILD
_Frontispiece_
This fine presentation of the dress of a gentlewoman and infant child,
in the middle of the seventeenth century, hung in old Plymouth homes in
the Thomas and Stevenson families till it came by inheritance to the
present owner, Mrs. Greely Stevenson Curtis of Boston, Mass. The artist
is unknown.
JOHN ENDICOTT
Born in Dorchester, Eng., 1589. Died in Boston, Mass., 1665. He
emigrated to America in 1628; became governor of the colony in 1644,
and was major-general of the colonial troops. He hated Indians, the
Church of Rome, and Quakers. He wears a velvet skull-cap, and a
finger-ring, which is somewhat unusual; a square band; a richly fringed
and embroidered glove; and a “stiletto” beard. This portrait is in the
Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
EDWARD WINSLOW
Born in England, 1595; died at sea, 1655. One of the founders of the
Plymouth colony in 1620; and governor of that colony in 1633, 1636,
1644. This portrait is dated 1651. It is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth,
Mass.
JOHN WINTHROP
Born in England, 1588; died in Boston, 1649. Educated at Trinity
College, Cambridge; admitted to the Inner Temple, 1628. Made governor
of Massachusetts Bay Colony in 1629. Arrived in Salem, 1630. His
portrait by Van Dyck and a fine miniature exist. The latter is owned by
American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass. This picture is copied
from a very rare engraving from the miniature, which is finer and even
more thoughtful in expression than the portrait. Both have the
lace-edged ruff, but the shape of the dress is indistinct.
SIMON BRADSTREET
Born in England, 1603; died in Salem, Mass., 1697. He was governor of
the colony when he was ninety years old. The Labadists, who visited
him, wrote: “He is an old man, quiet and grave; dressed in black silk,
but not sumptuously.”
SIR RICHARD SALTONSTALL
A mayor of London who came to Salem among the first settlers. The New
England families of his name are all descended from him. He wears
buff-coat and trooping scarf. This portrait was painted by Rembrandt.
SIR WALTER RALEIGH
Born in Devonshire, Eng., 1552; executed in London, 1618. A courtier,
poet, historian, nobleman, soldier, explorer, and colonizer. He was the
favorite of Elizabeth; the colonizer of Virginia; the hero of the
Armada; the victim of King James. In this portrait he wears a slashed
jerkin; a lace ruff; a broad trooping scarf with great lace
shoulder-knot; a jewelled sword-belt; full, embroidered breeches;
lace-edged garters, and vast shoe-roses, which combine to form a
confused dress.
SIR WALTER RALEIGH AND SON
This print was owned by the author for many years, with the written
endorsement by some unknown hand, _Martin Frobisher and Son_. I am glad
to learn that it is from a painting by Zucchero of Raleigh and his son,
and is owned at Wickham Court, in Kent, Eng., by the descendant of one
of Raleigh’s companions in his explorations. The child’s dress is less
fantastic than other portraits of English children of the same date.
ROBERT DEVEREUX, EARL OF ESSEX
From an old print. A general of Cromwell’s army.
OLIVER CROMWELL DISSOLVING PARLIAMENT
From an old Dutch print.
SIR WILLIAM WALLER
A general in Cromwell’s army. Born, 1597; died, 1668. He served in the
Thirty Years’ War. This portrait is in the National Portrait Gallery.
LORD FAIRFAX
A general in Cromwell’s army. From an old print.
ALDERMAN ABELL AND RICHARD KILVERT
From an old print.
REV. JOHN COTTON, D.D.
Born in Derby, Eng., 1585; died at Boston, Mass., in 1652. A Puritan
clergyman who settled in Boston in 1633. He drew up for the colonists,
at the request of the General Court, an abstract of the laws of Moses
entitled _Moses His Judicials_, which was of greatest influence in the
formation of the laws of the colony. This portrait is owned by Robert
C. Winthrop, Esq.
REV. COTTON MATHER, D.D.
Born in Boston, Mass., 1683; died in Boston, Mass., 1728. A clergyman,
author, and scholar. His book, _Magnalia Christi Americana_, an
ecclesiastical history of New England, is of much value, though most
trying. He took an active and now much-abhorred part in the Salem
witchcraft. This portrait is owned by the American Antiquarian Society,
Worcester, Mass.
SLASHED SLEEVES
From portraits _temp_. Charles I. The first is from a Van Dyck portrait
of the Earl of Stanhope, and has a rich, lace-edged cuff. The second,
with a graceful lawn undersleeve, is from a Van Dyck of Lucius Gary,
Viscount Falkland. The third is from a painting by Mytens of the Duke
of Hamilton. The fourth, by Van Dyck, is from one of Lord Villiers,
Viscount Grandison.
MRS. KATHERINE CLARK
Born, 1602; died, 1671. An English gentlewoman renowned in her day for
her piety and charity.
LADY MARY ARMINE
An English lady of great piety, whose gifts to Christianize the Indians
make her name appear in the early history of Massachusetts. Her black
domino and frontlet are of interest. This portrait was painted about
1650.
THE TUB-PREACHER
An old print of a Quaker meeting. Probably by Marcel Lawson.
VENICE POINT LACE
Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary of Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
REBECCA RAWSON
The daughter of Edward Rawson, Secretary of State. Born in Boston in
1656; married in 1679 to an adventurer, Thomas Rumsey, who called
himself Sir Thomas Hale. She died at sea, in 1692. This portrait is
owned by New England Historic Genealogical Society.
ELIZABETH PADDY
Born in Plymouth, Mass., in 1641. Daughter of William Paddy; she
married John Wensley of Plymouth. Their daughter Sarah married Dr.
Isaac Winslow. This portrait is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.
MRS. SIMEON STODDARD
A wealthy Boston gentlewoman. This portrait was painted in the latter
half of the seventeenth century. It is owned by the Massachusetts
Historical Society.
ANCIENT BLACK LACE
Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary, Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
VIRAGO-SLEEVE
From a French portrait.
NINON DE L’ENCLOS
Born in Paris, 1615; died in 1705. Her dress has a slashed
virago-sleeve and lace whisk.
LADY CATHERINE HOWARD
Grandchild of the Earl of Arundel. Aged thirteen years. Drawn in 1646
by W. Hollar.
COSTUMES OF ENGLISHWOMEN OF SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Plates from _Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or Several Habits of
Englishwomen_, 1640. By Wenceslaus Hollar, an engraver of much note and
much performance; born at Prague, 1607; died in England, 1677. This
book contains twenty-six plates illustrating women’s dress in all ranks
of life with absolute fidelity.
GERTRUDE SCHUYLER LIVINGSTONE
Second wife and widow of Robert Livingstone. The curiously plaited
widow’s cap can be seen under her hood.
MRS. MAGDALEN BEEKMAN
Died in New York in 1730. Widow of Gerardus Beekman, who died in 1723.
LADY ANNE CLIFFORD
Born, 1590. Daughter of George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland. Painted in
1603.
LADY HERRMAN
Of Bohemia Manor, Maryland. Wife of a pioneer settler. From _Some
Colonial Mansions_. Published by Henry T. Coates & Co.
ELIZABETH CROMWELL
Mother of Oliver Cromwell. She died at Whitehall in 1654, aged 90
years. This portrait is at Hinchinbrook, and is owned by the Earl of
Sandwich. It was painted by Robert Walker. Her dress is described as “a
green velvet cardinal, trimmed with gold lace.” Her hood is white
satin.
POCAHONTAS
Daughter of Powhatan, and wife of Mr. Thomas Rolfe. Born 1593; died
1619; aged twenty-one when this was painted. The portrait is owned by a
member of the Rolfe family.
DUCHESS OF BUCKINGHAM AND CHILDREN
Painted in 1626 by Gerard Honthorst. In the original the Duke of
Buckingham is also upon the canvas. He was George Villiers, the
“Steenie” of James I, who was assassinated by John Felton. The duchess
was the daughter of the Earl of Rutland. The little daughter was
afterwards Duchess of Richmond and Lenox. The baby was George, the
second Duke of Buckingham, poet, politician, courtier, the friend of
Charles II. The picture is now in the National Portrait Gallery.
A WOMAN’S DOUBLET
Worn by the infamous Mrs. Anne Turner.
A PURITAN DAME
Plate from _Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus_.
PENELOPE WINSLOW
Painted in 1651. Dress dull olive; mantle bright red; pearl necklace,
ear-rings and pearl bandeau in hair. The hair is curled as the hair in
portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria. In Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.
GOLD-FRINGED GLOVES OF GOVERNOR LEVERETT
In Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
EMBROIDERED PETTICOAT-BAND, 1750
Bright-colored crewels on linen. Owned by the Misses Manning of Salem,
Mass.
BLUE DAMASK GOWN AND QUILTED SATIN PETTICOAT
These were owned by Mrs. James Lovell, who was born 1735; died, 1817.
Through her only daughter, Mrs. Pickard, who died in 1812, they came to
her only child, Mary Pickard (Mrs. Henry Ware, Jr.), whose heirs now
own them. They are in the keeping of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
A PLAIN JERKIN
This portrait is of Martin Frobisher, hero of the Armada; explorer in
1576, 1577, and 1578 for the Northwestern Passage, and discoverer of
Frobisher’s Bay. He died in 1594.
CLOTH DOUBLET
This portrait is of Edward Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire. Owned by the
Duke of Bedford. It shows a plain cloth doublet with double row of
turreted welts at the shoulder. Horace Walpole says of this portrait,
“He is quite in the style of Queen Elizabeth’s lovers; red-bearded, and
not comely.”
JAMES, DUKE OF YORK
Born, 1633. Afterwards James II of England. This scene in a
tennis-court was painted about 1643.
EMBROIDERED JERKIN
This portrait is of George Carew, Earl of Totnes. It was painted by
Zucchero, and is owned by the Earl of Verulam. He wears a rich jerkin
with four laps on each side below the belt; it is embroidered in
sprigs, and guarded on the seams. The sleeves are detached. He wears
also a rich sword-belt and ruff.
JOHN LILBURNE
Born in Greenwich, Eng., in 1614; died in 1659. A Puritan soldier,
politician, and pamphleteer. He was fined, whipped, pilloried, tried
for treason, sedition, controversy, libel. He was imprisoned in the
Tower, Newgate, Tyburn, and the Castle. He was a Puritan till he turned
Quaker. His sprawling boots, dangling knee-points, and silly little
short doublet form a foolish dress.
COLONEL WILLIAM LEGGE
Born in 1609. Died in 1672. He was a stanch Royalist. His portrait is
by Jacob Huysmans, and is in the National Portrait Gallery.
SIR THOMAS ORCHARD KNIGHT, 1646
From an old print indorsed “S Glover ad vivum delineavit 1646.” He is
in characteristic court-dress, with slashed sleeves, laced cloak, laced
garters, and shoe-roses. His hair and beard are like those of Charles
II.
THE ENGLISH ANTICK
From a broadside of 1646.
GEORGE I OF ENGLAND
Born in Hanover, 1660. Died in Hanover, 1727. Crowned King of England
in 1714. This portrait is by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and is in the
National Portrait Gallery. It is remarkable for its ribbons and curious
shoes.
THREE CASSOCK SLEEVES AND A BUFF-COAT SLEEVE
_Temp_. Charles I. The first sleeve is from a portrait of Lord Bedford.
The second, with shoulder-knot of ribbon, was worn by Algernon Sidney;
the third is from a Van Dyck portrait of Viscount Grandison; the
fourth, the sleeve of a curiously slashed buff-coat worn by Sir Philip
Sidney.
HENRY BENNET, EARL OF ARLINGTON
Born, 1618; died, 1685. From the original by Sir Peter Lely. This is
asserted to be the costume chosen by Charles II in 1661 “to wear
forever.”
FIGURES FROM FUNERAL PROCESSION OF THE DUKE OF ALBEMARLE IN 1670
These drawings of “Gentlemen,” “Earls,” “Clergymen,” “Physicians,” and
“Poor Men” are by F. Sanford, Lancaster Herald, and are from his
engraving of the Funeral Procession of George Monk, Duke of Albemarle.
EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON, HENRY WRIOTHESLEY.
Born, 1573. Died in The Netherlands in 1624. He was the friend of
Shakespere, and governor of the Virginia Company. This portrait is by
Mierevelt.
A BOWDOIN PORTRAIT
This fine portrait is by a master’s hand. The name of the subject is
unknown. The initials would indicate that he was a Bowdoin, or a
Baudouine, which was the name of the original emigrant. It has been
owned by the Bowdoin family until it was presented to Bowdoin College,
Brunswick, Me., where it now hangs in the Walker Art Building.
WILLIAM PYNCHEON
Born, 1590; died, 1670. This portrait was painted in 1657. It is in an
unusual dress, with the only double row of buttons I have seen on a
portrait of that date. It also shows no hair under the close cap.
JONATHAN EDWARDS, D.D.
Born, Windsor, Conn., 1703. Died, Princeton, N.J., 1758. A theologian,
metaphysician, missionary, author, and president of Princeton
University.
GEORGE CURWEN
Born in England, 1610; died in Salem, 1685. He came to Salem in 1638,
where he was the most prominent merchant, and commanded a troop of
horse, whereby he acquired his title of Captain. He is in military
dress. Portrait owned by Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
WALKING-STICK AND LACE FRILL, 1660
These articles are in the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
WILLIAM CODDINGTON
Born in Leicestershire, Eng., 1601; died in Rhode Island, 1678. One of
the founders of the Rhode Island Colony, and governor for many years.
THOMAS FAYERWEATHER
Born, 1692; died, 1733, in Boston. Married, in 1718, Hannah Waldo,
sister of Brigadier-general Samuel Waldo. This portrait is by Smybcrt.
It is owned by his descendants, Miss Elizabeth L. Bond and Miss
Catherine Harris Bond, of Cambridge, Mass.
“KING” CARTER IN YOUTH
CITY FLAT-CAP
Worn by “Bilious” Bale, who died in 1563. His square beard, coif, and
citizen’s flat-cap were worn by Englishmen till 1620.
KING JAMES I OF ENGLAND
This portrait was painted before he was king of England. It is now in
the National Portrait Gallery.
FULKE GREVILLE, LORD BROOKE
In doublet, with curious slashed tabs or bands at the waist, forming a
roll like a woman’s farthingale. The hat, with jewelled hat-band, is of
a singular and ugly shape.
JAMES DOUGLAS, EARL OF MORTON
His hat, band, and jerkin are unusual.
ELIHU YALE
Born in Boston, Mass., in 1648. Died in England in 1721. He founded
Yale College, now Yale University. This portrait is owned by Yale
University, New Haven, Conn.
THOMAS CECIL, FIRST EARL OF EXETER
Died in 1621.
CORNELIUS STEINWYCK
The wealthiest merchant of New Amsterdam in the seventeenth century.
This portrait is owned by the New York Historical Society.
HAT WITH GLOVE AS A FAVOR
From portrait of George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland. He died in 1605.
GULIELMA SPRINGETT PENN
First wife of William Penn. Born, 1644; died, 1694. The original
painting is on glass. Owned by the heirs of Henry Swan, Dorking, Eng.
HANNAH CALLOWHILL PENN
Second wife of William Penn; from a portrait now in Blackwell Hall,
County Durham, Eng.
MADAME DE MIRAMION
Born, 1629; died in Paris, 1696.
THE STRAWBERRY GIRL
From Tempest’s _Cries of London_.
OPERA HOOD, OR CARDINAL, OF BLACK SILK
It is now in Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
QUILTED HOOD
Owned by Miss Mary Atkinson of Doylestown, Pa.
PINK SILK HOOD
Owned by Miss Alice Browne of Salem, Mass.
PUG HOOD
Owned by Miss Alice Browne of Salem, Mass.
SCARLET CLOAK
This fine broadcloth cloak and hood were worn by Judge Curwen. They are
in perfect preservation, owing, in later years, to the excellent care
given them by their present owner, Miss Bessie Curwen, of Salem, Mass.,
a descendant of the original owner.
JUDGE STOUGHTON
WOMAN’S CLOAK
From Hogarth.
A CAPUCHIN
From Hogarth.
LADY CAROLINE MONTAGU
Daughter of Duke of Buccleuch. Painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds in 1776.
JOHN QUINCY
Born, 1686. This portrait is owned by Brooks Adams, Esq., Boston, Mass.
Miss CAMPION
From Andrew W. Tuer’s _History of the Hornbook_. This portrait has hung
for two centuries in an Essex manor-house. Its date, 1661, is but nine
years earlier than the portraits of the Gibbes children, and the dress
is the same. The cavalier hat and cuffs are the only varying detail.
INFANT’S CAP
Tambour work, 1790.
ELEANOR FOSTER
Born, 1746. She married Dr. Nathaniel Coffin, of Portland, Me., and
became the mother of the beautiful Martha, who married Richard C.
Derby. This portrait was painted in 1755. It is owned by Mrs. Greely
Stevenson Curtis of Boston, Mass.
WILLIAM, PRINCE OF ORANGE
From an old print.
MRS. THEODORE S. SEDGWICK AND DAUGHTER.
Mrs. Sedgwick was Pamela Dwight. This portrait was painted by Ralph
Earle, and exhibits one of his peculiarities. The home of the subject
of the portrait is shown through an open window, though the immediate
surroundings are a room within the house. The child is Catherine M.
Sedgwick, the poet. This painting is owned in Stockbridge by members of
the family.
INFANT CHILD OF FRANCIS HOPKINSON, THE SIGNER
A drawing in crayon by the child’s father. The child carries a coral
and bells.
MARY SETON
1763. Died in 1800, aged forty. Married John Wilkes of New York. White
frock and blue scarf.
THE BOWDOIN CHILDREN
Lady Temple and Governor James Bowdoin in childhood. The artist of this
pleasing portrait is unknown. I think it was painted by Blackburn. It
is now in the Walker Art Gallery, at Bowdoin College, Brunswick, Me.
Miss LYDIA ROBINSON
Aged twelve years, daughter of Colonel James Robinson, Salem, Mass.
Painted by M. Corné in 1808. Owned by the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
KNITTED FLAXEN MITTENS
These are knitted upon finest wire needles, of linen thread, which had
been spun, and the flax raised and prepared by the knitter.
MRS. ELIZABETH (LUX) RUSSELL AND DAUGHTER.
CHRISTENING SHIRT AND MITTS OF GOVERNOR BRADFORD.
White linen with pinched sleeves and chaney ruffles and fingertips.
Owned by Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
FLANDERS LACE MITTS
These infant’s mitts were worn in the sixteenth century, and came to
Salem with the first emigrants. Owned by Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
INFANT’S ADJUSTABLE CAP
This has curious shirring-strings to make it fit heads of various
sizes. It is home spun and woven, and the lace edging is home knit.
REV. JOHN P. DABNEY, WHEN A CHILD IN 1806
This portrait of a Salem minister in childhood is in jacket and
trousers, with openwork collar and ruffles. It is now owned by the
Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.
ROBERT GIBBES
Born, 1665. This portrait is dated 1670. It is owned by Miss Sarah B.
Hager of Kendal Green, Mass.
NANKEEN BREECHES, WITH SILVER BUTTONS. 1790
RALPH IZARD, WHEN A LITTLE BOY
Born in Charleston, S. C., 1742; died in 1804. Painted in 1750. He was
United States Senator 1789-1795. This debonair little figure in blue
velvet, silk-embroidered waistcoat, silken hose, buckled shoes, and
black hat, gold-laced, is a miniature courtier. The portrait is now
owned by William E. Huger, Esq., of Charleston, S.C.
GOVERNOR AND REVEREND GURDON SALTONSTALL
Born in 1666; died in 1724. Governor of Connecticut, 1708-24. He was
also ordained a minister of the church at New London.
MAYOR RIP VAN DAM
Mayor of New York in 1710.
JUDGE ABRAHAM DE PEYSTER OF NEW YORK
GOVERNOR DE BIENVILLE, JEAN BAPTISTE LEMOINE
Born in Montreal, Can., 1680. Died in 1768. French Governor of
Louisiana for many years. He founded New Orleans. The original is in
Longeuil, Can.
DANIEL WALDO
Born in Boston, 1724; died in 1808. Married Rebecca Salisbury.
REV. JOHN MARSH, HARTFORD, CONN
JOHN ADAMS IN YOUTH
Born in Braintree, Mass., 1735; died at Quincy, Mass., 1826. Second
President of the United States, 1797-1801. He was a member of Congress,
signer of Declaration of Independence, Commissioner to France,
Ambassador to The Netherlands, Peace Commissioner to Great Britain,
Minister to Court of St. James. This portrait in youth is in a wig.
Throughout life he wore his hair bushed out at the ears.
JONATHAN EDWARDS, D.D.
Born in 1745; died in 1801. He was a son of the great Jonathan Edwards,
and was President of Union College, Schenectady, 1799-1801. This
portrait shows the fashion of dressing the hair when wigs and powder
had been banished and the hair hung lank and long in the neck.
PATRICK HENRY
Born in Virginia, 1736; died in Charlotte County, Va., in 1799. An
orator, patriot, and a leader in the American Revolution. He organized
the Committees of Correspondence, was a member of Continental Congress,
1774, of the Virginia Convention, 1775, and was governor of Virginia
for several terms. This portrait shows him in lawyer’s close wig and
robe.
“KING” CARTER
Died, 1732.
JUDGE BENJAMIN LYNDE, OF SALEM AND BOSTON, MASS
Died, 1745. Painted by Smybert.
JOHN RUTLEDGE
Born, Charleston, S.C., 1739; died, 1800. He was member of Congress,
governor of South Carolina, chief justice of Supreme Court. His hair is
tied in cue.
CAMPAIGN, RAMILLIES, BOB, AND PIGTAIL WIGS
REV. WILLIAM WELSTEED
From an engraving by Copley, his only engraving.
THOMAS HOPKINSON
Born in London, 1709. Came to America in 1731. Married Mary Johnson in
1736. Made Judge of the Admiralty in 1741. Died in 1751. He was the
father of Francis the Signer. This portrait is believed to be by Sir
Godfrey Kneller.
REV. DR. BARNARD
A Connecticut clergyman.
ANDREW ELLICOTT
Born, 1754; died, 1820. A Maryland gentleman of wealth and position.
HERBERT WESTPHALING
Bishop of Hereford, Eng.
HERALD CORNELIUS VANDUM.
Born, 1483; died, 1577, aged ninety-four years. Yeoman of the Guard and
usher to Henry VIII, Edward VI, Mary, and Elizabeth. His beard is
unique.
SCOTCH BEARD
Worn by Alexander Ross, 1655.
DR. WILLIAM SLATER
Cathedral beard.
DR. JOHN DEE
Born in London, 1527; died, 1608. An English mathematician, astrologer,
physician, author, and magician. He wrote seventy-nine books, mostly on
magic. His “pique-a-devant” beard might well “a man’s eye out-pike.”
IRON AND LEATHER PATTENS, 1760
Owned by author.
OAK, IRON, AND LEATHER CLOGS
In Museum of Bucks County Historical Society, Penn.
ENGLISH CLOGS
CHOPINES
Drawing from Chopines in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. The tallest
chopine had a sole about nine inches thick.
WEDDING CLOGS
These clogs are of silk brocade, and were made to match brocade
slippers. The one with pointed toe would fit the brocaded shoes of the
year 1760. The other has with it a high-heeled, black satin slipper of
the year 1780, to show how they were worn. They forced a curious
shuffling step.
CLOGS OF PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH
CHILD’S CLOGS
About 1780. Owned by Bucks County Historical Society.
COPLEY FAMILY PICTURE
This group, consisting of the artist, John Singleton Copley, his wife,
who was formerly a young widow, Susannah Farnham; his wife’s father,
Richard Clarke, a most respected Boston merchant who was wealthy until
ruined by the War of the Revolution; and the four little Copley
children. Elizabeth is between four and five; John Singleton, Jr., is
the boy of three, who afterwards became Lord Lyndhurst; Mary is aged
two, and an infant is in the grandfather’s arms. Copley was born in
1737, and must have been about thirty-seven when this was painted in
1775. It is deemed by many his masterpiece. The portrait is owned by
Mr. Amory, but is now in the custody of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
It is most pronounced, almost startling, in color, every tint being
absolutely frank.
WEDDING SLIPPERS AND BROCADE STRIP, 1712
Owned by Mrs. Thomas Robinson Harris, of Scarboro on the Hudson, N.Y.
JACK-BOOTS
Owned by Lord Fairfax of Virginia.
JOSHUA WARNER
A Portsmouth gentleman. This portrait is now in the Boston Museum of
Fine Arts.
SHOE AND KNEE BUCKLES
They are shoe-buckles, breeches-buckles, garter-buckles, stock-buckles.
Some are cut silver and gold; others are cut steel; some are paste.
Some of these were owned by Dr. Edward Holyoke, of Salem, and are now
owned by Miss Susan W. Osgood, of Salem, Mass.
WEDDING SLIPPERS
Worn in 1760 by granddaughter of Governor Simon Bradstreet. Owned by
Miss Mary S. Cleveland, of Salem, Mass. Their make and finish are
curious; they have paste buckles.
ABIGAIL BROMFIELD ROGERS
Painted by Copley in Europe. Owned by Miss Annette Rogers, of Boston,
Mass.
SLIPPERS
Worn by Mrs. Carroll with the brocade silk sacque. They are embroidered
in the colors of the brocade.
WHITE KID SLIPPERS, 1810
Owned by author.
CHAPTER I
APPAREL OF THE PURITAN AND PILGRIM FATHERS
_“Deep-skirted doublets, puritanic capes
Which now would render men like upright apes
Was comelier wear, our wiser fathers thought
Than the cast fashions from all Europe brought”_
—“New England’s Crisis,” BENJAMIN TOMPSON, 1675.
_“I am neither Niggard nor Cynic to the due Bravery of the true
Gentry.”_
—“The simple Cobbler of Agawam,” J. WARD, 1713.
_“Never was it happier in England than when an Englishman was known
abroad by his own cloth; and contented himself at home with his fine
russet carsey hosen, and a warm slop; his coat, gown, and cloak of
brown, blue or putre, with some pretty furnishings of velvet or fur,
and a doublet of sad-tawnie or black velvet or comely silk, without
such cuts and gawrish colours as are worn in these dayes by those who
think themselves the gayest men when they have most diversities of
jagges and changes of colours.”_
—“Chronicles,” HOLINSHED, 1578.