BOOK I.--HISTORY.

Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have

been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

On page 3, Cyrnos is a possible typo for Cyrnus.

CONSTABLE'S MISCELLANY

OF

FOREIGN LITERATURE.

VOL. V.

EDINBURGH: THOMAS CONSTABLE AND CO.

HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO., LONDON.

JAMES M'GLASHAN, DUBLIN.

MDCCCLV.

EDINBURGH: T. CONSTABLE, PRINTER TO HER MAJESTY.

[Illustration: ISLAND of CORSICA

Engraved & Printed in Colours by W. & A. K. Johnston, Edinburgh.

Edinburgh, T. Constable & Co.]

WANDERINGS IN CORSICA:

ITS HISTORY AND ITS HEROES.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN OF

FERDINAND GREGOROVIUS

BY ALEXANDER MUIR.

VOL. I.

EDINBURGH: THOMAS CONSTABLE AND CO.

HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO., LONDON.

JAMES M'GLASHAN, DUBLIN.

MDCCCLV.

PREFACE.

It was in the summer of the past year that I went over to the island

of Corsica. Its unknown solitudes, and the strange stories I had

heard of the country and its inhabitants, tempted me to make the

excursion. But I had no intention of entangling myself so deeply

in its impracticable labyrinths as I actually did. I fared like the

heroes of the fairy-tales, who are allured by a wondrous bird into

some mysterious forest, and follow it ever farther and farther into the

beautiful wilderness. At last I had wandered over most of the island.

The fruit of that summer is the present book, which I now send home

to my friends. May it not meet with an unsympathetic reception! It is

hoped that at least the history of the Corsicans, and their popular

poetry, entitles it to something better.

The history of the Corsicans, all granite like their mountains, and

singularly in harmony with their nature, is in itself an independent

whole; and is therefore capable of being presented, even briefly, with

completeness. It awakens the same interest of which we are sensible in

reading the biography of an unusually organized man, and would possess

valid claims to our attention even though Corsica could not boast

Napoleon as her offspring. But certainly the history of Napoleon's

native country ought to contribute its share of data to an accurate

estimate of his character; and as the great man is to be viewed as a

result of that history, its claims on our careful consideration are the

more authentic.

It is not the object of my book to communicate information in the

sphere of natural science; this is as much beyond its scope as beyond

the abilities of the author. The work has, however, been written with

an earnest purpose.

I am under many obligations for literary assistance to the learned

Corsican Benedetto Viale, Professor of Chemistry in the University

of Rome; and it would be difficult for me to say how helpful various

friends were to me in Corsica itself. My especial thanks are, however,

due to the exiled Florentine geographer, Francesco Marmocchi, and to

Camillo Friess, Archivarius in Ajaccio.

ROME, April 2, 1853.

The Translator begs to acknowledge his obligations to L. C. C. (the

translator of Grillparzer's _Sappho_), for the translation of the

Lullaby, pp. 240, 241, in the first volume; the Voceros which begin on

pp. 51, 52, and 54, in the second volume, and the poem which concludes

the work.

EDINBURGH, February 1855.

CONTENTS.

BOOK I.--HISTORY.

PAGE

CHAP. I.--Earliest Accounts, 1

II.--The Greeks, Etruscans, Carthaginians, and Romans in Corsica, 4

III.--State of the Island during the Roman Period, 8

IV.--Commencement of the Mediæval Period, 11

V.--Feudalism in Corsica, 14

VI.--The Pisans in Corsica, 17

VII.--Pisa or Genoa?--Giudice della Rocca, 20

VIII.--Commencement of Genoese Supremacy, 22

IX.--Struggles with Genoa--Arrigo della Rocca, 24

X.--Vincentello d'Istria, 27

XI.--The Bank of St. George of Genoa, 30

XII.--Patriotic Struggles--Giampolo da Leca--Renuccio della

Rocca, 34

XIII.--State of Corsica under the Bank of St. George, 38

XIV.--The Patriot Sampiero, 41

XV.--Sampiero--France and Corsica, 45

XVI.--Sampiero in Exile--His wife Vannina, 48

XVII.--Return of Sampiero--Stephen Doria, 52

XVIII.--The Death of Sampiero, 58

XIX.--Sampiero's Son, Alfonso--Treaty with Genoa, 62

BOOK II.--HISTORY.

CHAP. I.--State of Corsica in the Sixteenth Century--A Greek Colony

established on the Island, 66

II.--Insurrection against Genoa, 72

III.--Successes against Genoa, and German Mercenaries--Peace

concluded, 76

IV.--Recommencement of Hostilities--Declaration of

Independence--Democratic Constitution of Costa, 81

V.--Baron Theodore von Neuhoff, 85

VI.--Theodore I., King of Corsica, 90

VII.--Genoa in Difficulties--Aided by France--Theodore expelled, 94

VIII.--The French reduce Corsica--New Insurrection--The Patriot

Gaffori, 98

IX.--Pasquale Paoli, 105

X.--Paoli's Legislation, 111

XI.--Corsica under Paoli--Traffic in Nations--Victories over

the French, 119

XII.--The Dying Struggle, 124

BOOK III.--WANDERINGS IN THE SUMMER OF 1852.

CHAP. I.--Arrival in Corsica, 130

II.--The City of Bastia, 137

III.--Environs of Bastia, 144

IV.--Francesco Marmocchi of Florence--The Geology of Corsica, 149

V.--A Second Lesson, the Vegetation of Corsica, 154

VI.--Learned Men, 160

VII.--Corsican Statistics--Relation of Corsica to France, 164

VIII.--Bracciamozzo the Bandit, 172

IX.--The Vendetta, or Revenge to the Death! 176

X.--Bandit Life, 185

BOOK IV.

CHAP. I.--Southern Part of Cape Corso, 198

II.--From Brando to Luri, 203

III.--Pino, 208

IV.--The Tower of Seneca, 212

V.--Seneca Morale, 218

VI.--Seneca Birbone, 225

VII.--Seneca Eroe, 234

VIII.--Thoughts of a Bride, 236

IX.--Corsican Superstitions, 242

BOOK V.

CHAP. I.--Vescovato and the Corsican Historians, 246

II.--Rousseau and the Corsicans, 256

III.--The Moresca--Armed Dance of the Corsicans, 259

IV.--Joachim Murat, 264

V.--Venzolasca--Casabianca--The Old Cloisters, 275

VI.--Hospitality and Family Life in Oreto--The Corsican

Antigone, 277

VII.--A Ride through the District of Orezza to Morosaglia, 288

VIII.--Pasquale Paoli, 293

IX.--Paoli's Birthplace, 305

X.--Clemens Paoli, 314

XI.--The Old Hermit, 317

XII.--The Battle-field of Ponte Nuovo, 321

WANDERINGS IN CORSICA.

BOOK I.--HISTORY.

CHAP. I.--EARLIEST ACCOUNTS.

The oldest notices of Corsica we have, are to be found in the Greek

and Roman historians and geographers. They do not furnish us with any

precise information as to what races originally colonized the island,

whether Phœnicians, Etruscans, or Ligurians. All these ancient races

had been occupants of Corsica before the Carthaginians, the Phocæan

Greeks, and the Romans planted their colonies upon it.

The position of the islands of Corsica and Sardinia, in the great

western basin of the Mediterranean, made them points of convergence

for the commerce and colonization of the surrounding nations of the

two continents. To the north, at the distance of a day's journey, lies

Gaul; three days' journey westwards, Spain; Etruria is close at hand

upon the east; and Africa is but a few days' voyage to the south. The

continental nations necessarily, therefore, came into contact in these

islands, and one after the other left their stamp upon them. This was

particularly the case in Sardinia, a country entitled to be considered

one of the most remarkable in Europe, from the variety and complexity

of the national characteristics, and from the multifarious traces left

upon it by so many different races, in buildings, sculptures, coins,

language, and customs, which, deposited, so to speak, in successive

strata, have gradually determined the present ethnographic conformation

of the island. Both Corsica and Sardinia lie upon the boundary-line

which separates the western basin of the Mediterranean into a Spanish

and an Italian half; and as soon as the influences of Oriental and

Greek colonization had been eradicated politically, if not physically,

these two nations began to exercise their determining power upon the

islands. In Sardinia, the Spanish element predominated; in Corsica, the

Italian. This is very evident at the present day from the languages.

In later times, a third determining element, but a purely political

one--the French, was added in the case of Corsica. At a period of the

remotest antiquity, both Spanish and Gallo-Celtic or Ligurian tribes

had passed over to Corsica; but the Spanish characteristics which

struck the philosopher Seneca so forcibly in the Corsicans of his time,

disappeared, except in so far as they are still visible in the somewhat

gloomy and taciturn, and withal choleric disposition of the present

islanders.

The most ancient name of the island is Corsica--a later, Cyrnus.

The former is said to be derived from Corsus, a son of Hercules, and

brother of Sardus, who founded colonies on the islands, to which they

gave their names. Others say that Corsus was a Trojan, who carried off

Sica, a niece of Dido, and that in honour of her the island received

its appellation. Such is the fable of the oldest Corsican chronicler,

Johann della Grossa.

Cyrnus was a name in use among the Greeks. Pausanias says, in his

geography of Phocis: "The island near Sardinia (Ichnusa) is called by

the native Libyans, Corsica; by the Greeks, Cyrnus." The designation

Libyans, is very generally applied to the Phœnicians, and it is

highly improbable that Pausanias was thinking of an aboriginal race.

He viewed them as immigrated colonists, like those in Sardinia. He

says, in the same book, that the Libyans were the first who came to

Sardinia, which they found already inhabited, and that after them came

the Greeks and Hispanians. The word Cyrnos itself has been derived from

the Phœnician, _Kir_--horn, promontory. In short, these matters are

vague, traditionary, hypothetical.

So much seems to be certain, from the ancient sources which supplied

Pausanias with his information, that in very early times the

Phœnicians founded colonies on both islands, that they found them

already inhabited, and that afterwards an immigration from Spain took

place. Seneca, who spent eight years of exile in Corsica, in his book

_De Consolatione_, addressed to his mother Helvia, and written from

that island, has the following passage (cap. viii.):--"This island

has frequently changed its inhabitants. Omitting all that is involved

in the darkness of antiquity, I shall only say that the Greeks,

who at present inhabit Massilia (Marseilles), after they had left

Phocæa, settled at first at Corsica. It is uncertain what drove them

away--perhaps the unhealthy climate, the growing power of Italy, or

the scarcity of havens; for, that the savage character of the natives

was not the reason, we learn from their betaking themselves to the then

wild and uncivilized tribes of Gaul. Afterwards, Ligurians crossed over

to the island; and also Hispanians, as may be seen from the similarity

of the modes of life; for the same kinds of covering for the head and

the feet are found here, as among the Cantabrians--and there are many

resemblances in words; but the entire language has lost its original

character, through intercourse with the Greeks and Ligurians." It is

to be lamented that Seneca did not consider it worth the pains to make

more detailed inquiry into the condition of the island. Even for him

its earliest history was involved in obscurity; how much more so must

it be for us?

Seneca is probably mistaken, however, in not making the Ligurians and

Hispanians arrive on the island till after the Phocæans. I have no

doubt that the Celtic races were the first and oldest inhabitants of

Corsica. The Corsican physiognomy, even of the present time, appears as

a Celtic-Ligurian.

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