I
If I made my first friendships from my perambulator, or trundling my
hoop and skipping my rope, in Rittenhouse Square, as every Philadelphian
should, they were interrupted and broken so soon that I have no memory
of them.
[Illustration: IN RITTENHOUSE SQUARE]
It was my fate to be sent to boarding-school before I had time to lay in
a store of the associations that are the common property of happier
Philadelphians of my generation. I do not know if I was ever taken, as
J. and other privileged children were, to the Pennsylvania Hospital on
summer evenings to see William Penn step down from his pedestal when he
heard the clock strike six, or to the Philadelphia Library to wait until
Benjamin Franklin, hearing the same summons, left his high niche for a
neighbouring saloon. I cannot recall the firemen's fights and the cries
of negroes selling pop-corn and ice-cream through the streets that fill
some Philadelphia reminiscences I have read. I cannot say if I ever went
anywhere by the omnibus sleigh in winter, or to West Philadelphia by the
stage at any time of the year. I never coasted down the hills of
Germantown, I never skated on the Schuylkill. When my contemporaries
compare notes of these and many more delightful things in the amazing,
romantic, incredible Philadelphia they grew up in, it annoys me to find
myself out of it all, sharing none of their recollections, save one and
that the most trivial. For, from the vagueness of the remote past, no
event emerges so clearly as the periodical visit of "Crazy Norah," a
poor, harmless, half-witted wanderer, who wore a man's hat and top
boots, with bits of ribbon scattered over her dress, and who, on her
aimless rounds, drifted into all the Philadelphia kitchens to the
fearful joy of the children; and my memory may be less of her personally
than of much talk of her helped by her resemblance, or so I fancied, to
a picture of Meg Merrilies in a collection of engravings of Walter
Scott's heroines owned by an Uncle, and almost the first book I can
remember.
II
But great as was my loss, I fancy my memories of old Philadelphia gain
in vividness for being so few. One of the most vivid is of the
interminable drive in the slow horse-car which was the longest part of
the journey to and from my Convent school,--which is the longest part of
any journey I ever made, not to be endured at the time but for the
chanting over and over to myself of all the odds and ends of verse I had
got by heart, from the dramas of _Little Miss Muffett_ and _Little Jack
Horner_ to Poe's _Bells_ and Tennyson's _Lady of Shalott_--but in memory
a drive to be rejoiced in, for nothing could have been more
characteristic of Philadelphia as it was then. The Convent was in
Torresdale on the Pennsylvania Railroad, and the Pennsylvania
Depot--Philadelphia had as yet no Stations and Terminals--was in the
distant, unknown quarter of Frankford. I believe it is used as a freight
station now and I have sometimes thought that, for sentiment's sake, I
should like to make a pilgrimage to it over the once well-travelled
road. But the modern trolley has deserted the straight course of the
unadventurous horse-car of my day and I doubt if ever again I could find
my way back. The old horse-car went, without turn or twist, along Third
Street. I started from the corner of Spruce, having got as far as that
by the slower, more infrequent Spruce Street car, and after I had passed
the fine old houses where Philadelphians--not aliens--lived, a good part
of the route lay through a busy business section. But there has stayed
with me as my chief impression of the endless street a sense of eternal
calm. No matter how much solid work was being done, no matter how many
fortunes were being made and unmade, it was always placid on the
surface, uneventful and unruffled. The car, jingling along in leisurely
fashion, was the one sign of animation.
[Illustration: THE PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL FROM THE GROUNDS]
Or often, in spring and summer, I went by boat, from--so false is
memory--I cannot say what wharf, up the Delaware. This was a pleasanter
journey and every bit as leisurely and as characteristic in its way of
Philadelphia life. For though I might catch the early afternoon boat, it
was sure to be full of business men returning from their offices to
their houses on the river. Philadelphians did not wait for the Main Line
to be invented to settle in the suburbs. They have always had a fancy
for the near country ever since Penn lived in state at Pennsbury, and
Logan at Stenton; ever since Bartram planted his garden on the banks of
the Schuylkill, and Arnold brought Peggy Shippen as his bride to Mount
Pleasant; ever since all the Colonial country houses we are so proud of
were built. I have the haziest memory of the places where the boat
stopped between Philadelphia and Torresdale and of the people who got
out there. But I cannot help remembering Torresdale for it was as
prominent a stopping-place in my journey through youth as it is in the
journey up the Delaware. The Convent was my home for years, and I had
many friends in the houses down by the riverside and scattered over the
near country. Their names are among the most familiar in my youthful
recollections: the Macalisters, the Grants--one of my brothers named
after the father--the Hopkins--another of my brothers marrying in the
family--the Fishers, Keatings, Steadmans, Kings, Bories, Whelans. It was
not often I could go or come without meeting somebody I knew on board. I
am a cockney myself, I love the town, but I can understand that
Philadelphians whose homes were in the country, especially if that
country lay along the shores of the Delaware, liked to get back early
enough to profit by it; that, busy and full of affairs as they might be,
they not only liked but managed to, shows how far hustling was from the
old Philadelphia scheme of things. Nowadays the motor brings the country
into town and town into the country. But the miles between town and
country were then lengthened into leagues by the leisurely boat and the
leisurely horse-car which, as I look back, seem to set the pace of life
in Philadelphia when I was young.
III
At first my holidays were spent mostly at the Convent. My Father, with
the young widower's embarrassment when confronted by his motherless
children, solved the problem the existence of my Sister and myself was
to him by putting us where he knew we were safe and well out of his way.
I do not blame him. What is a man to do when he finds himself with two
little girls on his clumsy masculine hands? But the result was he had no
house of his own to bring us to when the other girls hurried joyfully
home at Christmas and Easter and for the long summer holiday. It hurt as
I used to watch them walking briskly down the long path on the way to
the station. And yet, I scored in the end, for Philadelphia was the more
marvellous to me, visiting it rarely, than it could have been to
children to whom it was an everyday affair.
[Illustration: "ELEVENTH AND SPRUCE"]
For years my Grandfather's house was the scene of the occasional visit.
He lived in Spruce Street above Eleventh--the typical Philadelphia
Street, straight and narrow, on either side rows of red brick houses,
each with white marble steps, white shutters below and green shutters
above, and along the red brick pavement rows of trees which made
Philadelphia the green country town of Penn's desire, but the
Philadelphian's life a burden in the springtime before the coming of the
sparrows. Philadelphia, as I think of it in the old days at the season
when the leaves were growing green, is always heavy with the odour of
the evil-smelling ailantus and full of measuring worms falling upon me
from every tree. My fear of "Crazy Norah" is hardly less clear in my
early memories than the terror these worms were to the dear fragile
little Aunt who had cared for me in my first motherless years, and who
still, during my holidays, kept a watchful eye on me to see that I put
my "gums" on if I went out in the rain and that I had the money in my
pocket to stop at Dexter's for a plate of ice-cream. I can recall as if
it were yesterday, her shrieks one Easter Sunday when she came home from
church and found a green horror on her new spring bonnet and another on
her petticoat, and her miserable certainty all through the early Sunday
dinner that many more were crawling over her somewhere. But, indeed, the
Philadelphians of to-day can never know from what loathsome creatures
the sparrows have delivered them.
My Grandfather's house was as typical as the street--one of the quite
modest four-story brick houses that were thought unseemly sky-scrapers
and fire-traps when they were first built in Philadelphia. I can never
go by the old house of many memories--for sale, alas! the last time I
passed and still for sale according to the last news to reach me even as
I correct my proofs--without seeing myself as I used to be, arriving
from the Convent, small, plain, unbecomingly dressed and conscious of
it, with my pretty, always-becomingly-dressed because nothing was
unbecoming to her, not-in-the-least-shy Sister, both standing in the
vestibule between the inevitable Philadelphia two front doors, the outer
one as inevitably open all day long. And I see myself, when, in answer
to our ring, the servant had opened the inner one as well, entering in a
fresh access of shyness the wide lofty hall, with the front and back
parlours to the right; Philadelphians had no drawing-rooms then but were
content with parlours, as Penn had been who knew them by no other name.
Compared to the rich Philadelphian's house to-day, my Grandfather's
looks very unpretending, but when houses like it, with two big parlours
separated by folding doors, first became the fashion in Philadelphia,
they passed for palaces with Philadelphians who disapproved of display,
and the "tradesmen" living soberly in them were rebuked for aspiring to
the luxury of princes. I cannot imagine why, for the old Colonial houses
are, many of them, as lofty and more spacious, though it was the simple
spaciousness of my Grandfather's and the loftiness of its ceilings that
gave it charm.
[Illustration: DRAWING ROOM AT CLIVEDEN]
My Grandfather's two parlours, big as they were, would strike nobody
to-day as palatial. It needs the glamour time throws over them for me to
discover princely luxury in the rosewood and reps masterpieces of a
deplorable period with which they were furnished, or in their decoration
of beaded cushions and worsted-work mats and tidies, the lavish gifts of
a devoted family. But I cannot remember the parlours and forget the
respect with which they once inspired me. I own to a lingering affection
for their crowning touch of ugliness, an ottoman with a top of the
fashionable Berlin work of the day--a white arum lily, done by the
superior talent of the fancy store, on a red ground filled in by the
industrious giver. It stood between the two front windows, so that we
might have the additional rapture of seeing it a second time in the
mirror which hung behind it. Opposite, between the two windows of the
back parlour, was a "Rogers Group" on a blue stand; and a replica, with
variations, of both the ottoman and the "Rogers Group" could have been
found in every other Philadelphia front and back parlour. I recall also
the three or four family portraits which I held in tremendous awe,
however I may feel about them now; and the immensely high vases, unique
creations that could not possibly have been designed for any purpose
save to ornament the Philadelphia mantelpiece; and the transparent
lamp-shade, decorated with pictures of cats and children and landscapes,
that at night, when the gas was lit, helped to keep me awake until I
could escape to bed; and the lustre chandeliers hanging from the
ceiling--what joy when one of the long prisms came loose and I could
capture it and, looking through it, walk across the parlours and up the
stairs straight into the splendid dangers of Rainbow Land!
I had no time for these splendours on my arrival, nor, fortunately for
me, was I left long to the tortures of my shyness. At the end of the
hall, facing me, was the wide flight of stairs leading to the upper
stories, and on the first landing, at their turning just where a few
more steps led beyond into the back-building dining-room, my
Grandmother, in her white cap and purple ribbons, stood waiting. In my
memory she and that landing are inseparable. Whenever the door bell
rang, she was out there at the first sound, ready to say "Come right up,
my dear!" to whichever one of her innumerable progeny it might he. To
her right, filling an ample space in the windings of the back stairs,
was the inexhaustible pantry which I knew, as well as she, we should
presently visit together. Though there could not have been in
Philadelphia or anywhere quite such another Grandmother, even if most
Philadelphians feel precisely the same way about theirs, she was typical
too, like the house and the street. She belonged to the generation of
Philadelphia women who took to old age almost as soon as they were
mothers, put on caps and large easy shoes, invented an elderly dress
from which they never deviated for the rest of their lives, except to
exchange cashmere for silk, the everyday cap for one of fine lace and
wider ribbons, on occasions of ceremony, and who as promptly forgot the
world outside of their household and their family. I do not believe my
Grandmother had an interest in anybody except her children, or in
anything except their affairs; though this did not mean that she gave up
society when it was to their advantage that she should not. In her stiff
silks and costly caps, she presided at every dinner, reception, and
party given at home, as conscientiously as, in her sables and demure
velvet bonnet, she made and returned calls in the season.
My other memories are of comfortable, spacious rooms, good, solid,
old-fashioned furniture, a few more old and some better-forgotten new
family portraits on the walls, the engraving of Gilbert Stuart's
Washington over the dining-room mantelpiece, the sofa or couch in almost
every room for the Philadelphia nap before dinner, the two cheerful
kitchens where, if the servants were amiable, I sometimes played, and,
above all, the most enchanting back-yard that ever was or could be--we
were not so elegant in those days as to call it a garden.
IV
Since it has been the fashion to revive everything old in Philadelphia,
most Philadelphians are not happy until they have their garden, as their
forefathers had, and very charming they often make it in the suburbs.
But in town my admiration has been asked for gardens that would have
been lost in my Grandfather's back-yard, and for a few meagre plants
springing up about a cold paved square that would have been condemned
as weeds in his luxuriant flower beds.
The kindly magnifying glasses of memory cannot convert the Spruce Street
yard into a rival of Edward Shippen's garden in Second Street where the
old chronicles say there were orchards and a herd of deer, or of
Bartram's with its trees and plants collected from far and wide, or of
any of the old Philadelphia gardens in the days when in Philadelphia no
house, no public building, almost no church, could exist without a green
space and great trees and many flowers about it, and when Philadelphians
loved their gardens so well, and hated so to leave them, that there is
the story of one at least who came back after death to haunt the shady
walks and fragrant lawns that were fairer to her than the fairest
Elysian Fields in the land beyond the grave. Much of the old beauty had
gone before I was born, much was going as I grew from childhood to
youth. My Uncle, Charles Godfrey Leland, has described the Philadelphia
garden of his early years, "with vines twined over arbours, where the
magnolia, honeysuckle and rose spread rich perfume of summer nights, and
where the humming bird rested, and scarlet tanager, or oriole, with the
yellow and blue bird flitted in sunshine or in shade." Though I go back
to days before the sparrows had driven away not only the worms but all
others of their own race, I recall no orioles and scarlet tanagers, no
yellow and blue birds. Philadelphia's one magnolia tree stood in front
of the old Dundas house at Broad and Walnut.
All the same, my Grandfather's was a back-yard of enchantment. A narrow
brick-paved path led past the kitchens; on one side, close to the wall
dividing my Grandfather's yard from the next door neighbour's, was a
border of roses and Johnny-jump-ups and shrubs--the shrubs my
Grandmother used to pick for me, crush a little in her fingers, and tie
up in a corner of my handkerchief, which was the Philadelphia way--the
most effective way that ever was--to make them give out their sweetness.
Beyond the kitchens, where the yard broadened into a large open space,
the path enclosed, with a wider border of roses, two big grass plots
which were shaded by fruit trees, all pink and white in the springtime.
Wistaria hung in purple showers over the high walls. I am sure lilacs
bloomed at the kitchen door, and a vine of Isabella grapes--the very
name has an old Philadelphia flavour and fragrance--covered the verandah
that ran across the entire second story of the back-building. If
sometimes this delectable back-yard was cold and bare, in my memory
it is more apt to be sweet and gay with roses, shrubs and
Johnny-jump-ups,--summer and its pleasures oftener waiting on me there:
probably because my visits to my Grandfather's were more frequent in the
summer time. But I have vague memories of winter days, when the rose
bushes were done up in straw, and wooden steps covered the marble in
front, and ashes were strewn over the icy pavement, and snow was piled
waist-high in the gutter.
V
From the verandah there was a pleasant vista, up and down, of the same
back-yards and the same back buildings, just as from the front windows
there was a pleasant vista, up and down, of the same red-brick fronts,
the same white marble steps, the same white and green shutters,--only
one house daring upon originality, and this was Bennett's, the
ready-made clothes man, whose unusually large garden filled the opposite
corner of Eleventh and Spruce with big country-like trees over to which
I looked from my bedroom window. As a child, instinctively I got to know
that inside every house, within sight and beyond, I would find the same
front and back parlours, the same back-building dining-room, the same
number of bedrooms, the same engraving of George Washington over the
dining-room mantelpiece, the same big red cedar chest in the third story
hall and, in summer, the same parlours turned into cool grey cellars
with the same matting on the floor, the same linen covers on the chairs,
the same curtainless windows and carefully closed shutters, the same
white gauze over mirrors and chandeliers--to light upon an item for
gauze "to cover pictures and glass" in Washington's household accounts
while he lived in Philadelphia is one of the things it is worth
searching the old archives for.
[Illustration: BACK-YARDS, ST. PETER'S SPIRE IN THE DISTANCE]
Instinctively, I got to know too that, in every one of these
well-regulated interiors where there was a little girl, she must, like
me, be striving to be neither seen nor heard all the long morning, and
sitting primly at the front window all the long afternoon, and that, if
she ever played at home it was, like me, with measured steps and
modulated voice: at all times cultivating the calm of manner expected of
her when she, in her turn, would have just such a red brick house and
just such a delectable back-yard of her own. Thus, while the long months
at the Convent kept me busy cultivating every spiritual grace, during
the occasional holiday at Eleventh and Spruce I was well drilled in the
Philadelphia virtues.