A FEW PRACTICAL “DON’TS.”
Don’t imagine that you cannot do anything with a bit of ground. You can.
Don’t run away with the idea that the farmer’s life is all fun or all
labor. It isn’t. It is a mixture of both, and fun and labor are equally
healthful and profitable.
Don’t think that breaking up the surface soil for an inch or two is
the same as plowing. It is not. The old proverb is good advice for the
farmer—“Plow deep while sluggards sleep.” To plow in the fall is to
lessen your spring work by at least a third. Spring plowing is easier
because of it, and the work of the harrow is lighter.
Don’t begrudge manure. All forms of life require food. If you want your
plants to grow, feed them.
Don’t plant tiny, tender seeds in hard, cold, lumpy soil and expect
them to grow. They won’t. Pulverize your soil, warm it with sun, air
and manure; make a cosy little bed for your seeds, and while they
snuggle into it, they will be sending out little sprouts all the time
to see what the rest of the world is like. Just as it is good business
policy to treat your hired help as if they were human beings with
feelings, instead of mere tireless machines, so it pays to make your
seeds comfortable.
Don’t forget that your plants like air, and that what they get by their
stems and branches is not enough. The roots have to breathe. So keep
the earth about them stirred somewhat, that the air may get to them.
Don’t skimp the supply of moisture. Although you don’t want to drown
out the seeds by soaking the ground, yet you must so till it that it
holds all the moisture the plant needs. You find your craving for water
greater in summer than in winter, especially if you are working hard.
Well, the plant is working hard, if it is growing. See that it has its
drink of water always at hand.
Don’t decide to let the weeds on the roadside grow, just because they
seem “nearer the other fellow’s plot” than yours. There are no “other
fellows” in a matter of this kind. It does not take long for the weeds
he has to get to you. If he doesn’t know the importance of cleaning
even the road, and you do, just set him the example. He’ll soon ask you
why you did it. After that, he’ll probably do his share. At any rate
you will have done yours.
Don’t try to grow more and better crops than your neighbor, just for
the “fun of getting ahead of him.” Grow them to prove how much can be
done with your facilities, and to show him, as well as yourself, how
much more pleasure and profit he can find in gardening than he has
known before. Next year he’ll probably show you a thing or two.
Don’t think you have to emigrate to some far-away spot to make a living
from the earth. All soil can be made to produce if you use brains as
well as labor. Begin where you are, no matter how small the plot.
Learn to do it in little before you try it in large. If you have no
plot where you live, try to get the use of a vacant lot in your town
or city. Put up a tent and live in it. You and your family will be the
better for roughing it a bit. There’s lots of fun in camping if you go
about it in the right spirit.
Don’t be afraid to ask advice from the Department of Agriculture. They
are conducting their experiments for your sake, if that’s the sort of
knowledge you want. If it were not for you and thousands like you, they
would not need to discover so many of Nature’s secrets. Get the benefit
of their discoveries.
Don’t think you can farm without proper tools, any more than a man
could print a paper without a printing press. The old-fashioned, small
hand-press, would stand a poor show beside the new power presses. So
with old-fashioned, hand-gardening tools. You can do more work with a
wheel-hoe than with ten hand-hoes, and it isn’t so painful either. Get
only the tools you need, but be sure to get them, and get the best of
their kind.
Don’t let your tools stand out in all weathers, and don’t forget to
clean them and see that they are oiled. A dirty farm implement may mean
the spread of disease; unoiled bearings may mean injury from rust or
breakage. Save time and expense by a little care.
Don’t expect eggs from dirty or ill-fed fowls. The natural returns from
such conditions are vermin and sickness; and you’ll get them.
Don’t expect to take everything out of the soil and put nothing back.
The soil is like a bank account, so long as you keep adding to it, you
may draw from it. But if it is all “draw” and no “add,” then you will
soon come to the end of your resources. Feed your soil and it will feed
you.
Don’t plant poor seed. You can’t afford it. The best is cheapest. If
you have poor seed on hand, throw it away—or perhaps it might do for
the chickens. No loss can be so great as the loss of planting it.
Don’t forget that women are apt to make good gardeners, because they
are willing to “fuss over” necessary small matters. If you do not like
to attend constantly to “little things,” if you “hate details,” you
will be unlikely to make a big success of intensive culture. The man
who does best is the one who loves to compare soils and fertilizers and
seeds, and to try how many seeds sprout and how long they take; who is
interested in the temperature of every hot-bed; who watches for just
the day to use the wheel-hoe on this row and the hand-plow on that; who
finds the time only too short while he sets out onion seedlings; who
enjoys putting up nice bunches of vegetables or packages of fruit. In
short, the man or woman whose interest is in watching the crops instead
of the clock, is the one who succeeds in garden work.
Don’t delude yourself into thinking that you must have a fine house
before you can take up gardening. A shack is as good as a palace, and
better, if you can afford the one and not the other. Anything that
can be ventilated and made weather-proof will be enough. After you
have made your fortune, if you have not in the meantime learned the
value of simple living, build your fine house, and be as splendidly
uncomfortable as even the worst Philistine could desire. But while you
are earning your fortune, be comfortable. It pays.
Don’t think you must throw up your job and rush into farming for a
living, unless you have had some experience, or have a snug little bank
account to depend upon while you are learning. Get your experience on
a small piece of land first, while still holding down your present
job. Be sure you like the work and that you are willing to give all
necessary time and attention to it.
Don’t think that this list exhausts all the “don’ts,” practical
or otherwise. There are dozens of others. But it is well to leave
something to the imagination and to experience. You’ll learn them for
yourself and remember them better for it. Nevertheless, it will do no
harm to attach the rules for farm buying submitted to the American
Jewish Association. They run as follows:
Don’t think about buying a farm if your wife won’t live in the country.
Don’t believe in agents when they tell you gold-brick stories.
Don’t chase after big farms.
Don’t buy a farm unless you have money enough left to buy a cow.
Don’t run too much in debt when you buy your farm.
Don’t pay a deposit on your farm until you have consulted a lawyer.
Don’t forget to insure your farm buildings in a reliable company.
Don’t buy a farm unless you are able to meet the mortgages.
Don’t buy a farm unless you have consulted those who know.
Appendix I.
The island of Guernsey in the English Channel, only from four to
seven miles long, and three to four miles wide, supports a permanent
population of 41,000 and an additional visiting population each year
of about 30,000 persons. Only 11,623 acres are under cultivation, but
if the glass houses and frames were placed in line they would extend
for twenty-eight miles, or all around the island, and up the centre for
almost its entire length, and would average about 10 feet in width. The
farming lands are valued at twelve hundred dollars ($1200) an acre, and
are rented at 10 per cent. of their value. The exports of this land in
fruits, vegetables, flowers and cattle, amount to more than two and
three-quarters millions ($2,752,000) annually. In addition to this,
the farmers produce all that the 71,000 persons consume, as well as
hay, oats and forage for horses and cattle; and about $500,000 worth
of butter, poultry, eggs, pork and beef. At a conservative estimate,
the island produces about four and a half millions’ ($4,500,000) worth
of farm and garden stuff each year, or a little less than four hundred
dollars’ ($400) worth to the acre.
Don’t you think we Americans, with our improved machinery and
intelligence, can get much more out of our land—when we try?
If the State of New York were all cultivated and populated at that rate
it would produce nearly $15,000,000,000 worth annually and sustain
233,641,473 people, or about three times the population of the entire
United States. So we are not going to suffer from “over-population” or
“pauper labor” just yet.
Appendix II.
French Gardening, and Other Gardening Under Glass.
Intensive cultivation reaches its climax for the present in what is
called the French System, in vogue in and about Paris, and in some
parts of England, where rents are so enormously high that even an
inch of space counts, and must be made to produce its utmost. It has
not been in favor in this country, because, so far, the pressure of
rent has not compelled people to look so much after the inches. But,
if the present land-tenure system continues, there is no telling when
the French system of cultivation will become a necessity. In its
simplest terms, the French system is hot-bed cultivation with perfect
fertilization and irrigation, usually without artificial heat. The
secret of it is—manure, unlimited quantities of it, of the finest
quality and rotted to about the condition of leaf-mould. The beds are
made on the top of the earth, the foundation being fresh stable manure
that has been turned several times and thoroughly sweetened. Cover an
area sufficient to accommodate the number of frames you intend to use,
with great quantities of manure, so that after it has been tramped,
pressed and rolled flat, it will be from 6 to 8 inches deep at least.
Sometimes it is made two feet deep. The frames are then placed on
this bed, the manure extending well beyond them on every side, and a
distance of 18 inches is left between the rows of frames. A layer of
fine, rich, dark soil, mixed with manure that has been rotted during
the previous season, is then spread on, to the depth of six inches,
pressed down and raked. The bed is then ready for planting. Generally
four crops are grown in each frame, radish, lettuce, carrots and
cauliflower being the usual combination.
The radishes are sown first, quite thinly, then a thin layer of
carrot seed. These are covered with about half an inch of fine soil
well pressed down. Cabbage-lettuce is next set out, the plants being
placed nine inches apart, and, so far, three crops are growing at the
same time. The fourth, cauliflower, is not planted until the radishes
are off,—in about three or four weeks,—the lettuce has been cut and
the carrots are showing well above the ground. Then three or four
cauliflower plants are set in each frame between the carrots.
But one of the most interesting parts of this work is the growing of
the lettuce and cauliflower plants for transplanting to the hot-bed
frame. These are grown under “cloches” or bell-shaped glasses 17 inches
across the bottom and 15 inches high, on a seed-bed prepared just as
the hot-bed was prepared, except that the manure foundation is anywhere
from 12 to 15 inches deep after being pressed down. These beds are not
covered with frames, but the cloches are placed on them in two rows,
and within the circles made by them the seed is sown.
As soon as they come up, they may be transplanted from the cloches
to the hot-bed direct, or they may be pricked out under other
cloches, four plants to a glass, usually one Cos lettuce and three
cabbage-lettuce. These are again transplanted to the hot-bed where
the radish and carrot seed were sown, and follow the radish in being
picked. Lettuce seed is also sown in cold-frames about the first of
October and successive sowings are made until the end of that month.
Immediately after the lettuces are picked the bed is watered and
weeded, and among the growing carrots the cauliflower is set out.
Cauliflower is grown under cloches, the seed being sown as lettuce seed
is, under the glass or in the open seed-bed, from October to November,
and pricked out under the cloches as soon as the plants are well up.
They can be planted out in the hot-beds in February, and are ready for
market between the middle of May and the first of June. About April the
process of hardening begins, and by the end of that month the frames
and sashes are removed and the beds stand in the open. During the time
the crops are growing under glass, they need a great deal of attention,
that neither the sun nor the frost may injure them. For this reason
they are covered, uncovered and recovered several times during each day
with mats or frames.
When the cauliflower is off, the bed is forked over and planted with
endive, spinach, celery or other garden crop. When the season’s crop
has been harvested in October, the soil is gathered up in a great heap,
and the beds are topped with decayed manure in the leaf-mould state.
This is the best thing to plant in, and if one had enough of it, the
crops could be grown on a concrete floor; because in such soil plants
find all that they need.
To bring it down to the fine point, the French system consists of
manure, more manure, irrigation, availing of every ray of sunlight, and
unremitting care. It requires three years to get the system in good
working order, and here such intensive cultivation seems unnecessary.
It shows what man will do in the way of developing the possibilities of
nature, when by law or custom he is debarred from free access to the
land, and must needs make a very small portion yield a great return.
We are not in much danger of Malthus’s over-population, and the
much-talked-of “pressure of population.” Where so tiny a piece of soil
can be made to support so many and give them a good living, too, it is
foolish to argue that the cause of poverty is found in the increase of
population. This country alone could support many times the population
of the whole world today if natural opportunities were free. It has
been said that 80,000,000,000 could then be more comfortably supported
here than 80,000,000 now are. To find the cause of most of the poverty,
and even crime, in the world, we must look beyond the population
statistics to the restrictions and monopolies that prevent population
from providing for its own needs from natural sources. And when once
you begin to investigate monopolies, you will find the mother of them
all—Land Monopoly.
* * * * *
A new sash for use in hot-beds and cold-frames has been placed on our
market within a year or two, for which its makers claim many desirable
things. It seems as if their claims were being well sustained by the
experience of those using the Sunlight Double Glass Sash, as it is
called. The frames are made of red cypress and are fitted with rustless
springs and stops to hold the glass in the grooves and thus do away
with the expense and bother of glazing. There is a space of dead air
between the two layers of glass, which resists the cold from without,
and prevents the escape of heat from within. The sash are sufficiently
air-tight for ordinary weather, and when the thermometer falls, the
moisture which has gathered between the two layers of glass, freezes
and seals the sash practically air-tight.
The makers claim that Sunlight Double Glass Sash save more than half
the labor, worry and expense of growing plants in cold-frames and
hot-beds, and insure better plants, and, therefore, better crops, than
can be secured under the same conditions from single-layer sash. They
do away with the necessity of covering the frames with mats or boards,
being warmer than the single-layer sash even though covered with mats
or boards. Frames or beds filled with half-hardy plants, such as
lettuce, cabbage or cauliflower, need no extra covering even in zero
weather; and as far north as northeastern Ohio, with the thermometer
nearly down to zero, even tomatoes, peppers and eggplants have been
raised without additional covering, although this may not always be
done. Light is never excluded from the growing plants by night or day,
and in the short winter days of this climate, there is some advantage
to that. Even when snow and ice lie on the sash, there is some light
getting to the plants, and in clear weather the heat from the sun’s
rays during the day is stored up in the bed and held by the double
glass with the air-space between. That is why even in zero weather the
half-hardy plants need no extra covering.
It is quite possible that the gardeners of this country may make a
system of their own for intensive cultivation, to equal and perhaps
excel the French system with its repeated covering and uncovering of
the frames. The sash are made in Louisville, Ky.
Appendix III.
At Maylands, Mr. Joseph Fels’ “colony” in England, all the land is
under intensive cultivation, and the rules for getting the best results
from hot-beds are simple enough for anybody to follow. They emphasize
the advice given in this book and are, therefore, printed as an
appendix, so they may be easily consulted. They are furnished by the
superintending gardener of Maylands, Mr. Thomas F. Smith, Maylands,
Essex, England, for this book, and are as follows:—
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS TO MAYLANDS SMALLHOLDERS.
“It is possible to put the frames to a variety of profitable uses
during the winter and spring, but under the special circumstances of
our community, and the arrangement for co-operation, it will be best
for all to follow one plan, and the produce can then be handled in
bulk. To this end, I suggest that the frames be used for radishes
and cabbage-lettuce, then cleared for pricking out tomato plants;
afterwards, during the summer, used for cucumber or melons.
“During the last week of September, prepare a bed of about a square
yard by digging. Break it up fine; cover it with two inches of
prepared, sifted, well-rotted manure and soil in equal proportions.
Sow broadcast, thinly, a few inches of cabbage-lettuce seed—Watkin &
Simpson’s Early French Gold Frame will be very suitable. Cover with ¼
inch prepared soil and press evenly all over. Place a wooden framework
round the bed and cover with a sash. Do not water. If the sun shines
brightly in the middle of the day, cover the sash, and uncover as soon
as the sun’s power is gone. In 4 or 5 days the plants will be up, and
as soon as they can be handled they must be pricked off in frames
standing on beds prepared in a similar way to the seed-bed, except
that the soil inside must come half way up the board. Prick them out 2
inches apart, and do not water. They will stand here during the winter
and the work now is to watch them carefully, remove any decayed ones
or any showing mildew. If any mildew shows, dust over lightly once or
twice with flowers of sulphur. Keep as dry as possible. In hard, frosty
weather cover the frames with mats, but remove these whenever possible,
and give air on very mild days.
“Towards the latter end of January prepare the hot-beds, by mixing
well together equal quantities of old, dry manure and fresh manure.
In both cases this must be ‘long.’[13] Shake out the lumps and lay
the manure down to the depth of 18 inches. Keep level and beat down
gently with the back of the fork. Make the beds wide enough to extend
at least 9 inches beyond the frames. Tread the manure down and level
up any hollows. Lay the frames on straight and level. Fill up inside
one-third the depth with similar manure to that used for the bed, then
add 2 inches or so of the prepared soil. Rake the soil well, to leave
it level and remove lumps. Put on the sashes and cover with mats. Any
of this work must be finished the same day it is begun and covered up.
This is of importance, as frost, snow, or rain might set in, and spoil
the bed. The remaining beds must be made in the same way, all joining
up so as to form one entire bed without any spaces between. The frames
are butted together at the ends, and are set 1 foot apart between rows.
“Two or three days after finishing the first bed, it will begin to get
warm, which may be seen by the damp inside the glass. Now sow radishes
(French Breakfast Radishes—white-tipped) thinly broadcast. Cover them
up lightly with dry prepared soil, well sifted; press down evenly.
Set out the whole bed with lettuces at 9 in. apart. Before planting,
the lettuces must be carefully examined, all decayed leaves removed,
and doubtful plants rejected. Use only the strongest plants. Handle
very tenderly, so as not to bruise them. Cover the bed every night
with mats. When the radishes are up, give a little air on the opposite
side to the wind, but be careful not to overdo this, as the lettuces
thrive better with very little air. If any decayed leaves are seen on
the lettuces, remove them. If the heat in the frames slacks, as may be
seen by the radishes not moving quickly enough, place littery manure
all round and between the frames up to the lights. The radishes will be
ready for gathering the fourth week from sowing, and should be cleared
off a bed within 10 or 12 days. When they are all gone, water the bed
well between the lettuces with a fine ‘rose’-nozzle hose. Choose a
dull, mild day for this, between 11 and 12 o’clock. The lettuces will
be ready for marketing five or six weeks after planting, which will be
about the middle of March.
“About the beginning of March, make up a hot-bed for one frame of three
lights or sashes. Make it two feet thick, and at least a foot beyond
the frame all round. Fill up the inside as before, and pack round
outside. When the heat is steady, sow the tomato seed, thinly, in rows
about 1½ inches apart, keeping at least ½ inch between the seeds. Cover
and press down, then scatter lightly all over, a sifting of fine rotted
manure. Water well, cover up, putting mats on. In seven or eight days
the seed should be germinated. Keep a watch on it and remove the mats
the moment it is seen to be breaking through. Water gently with a fine
rose, using chilled water. Give all the light possible now, and water
as required, keeping the soil just nicely moist. As soon as the first
pair of rough leaves show, begin to prick off; if the pricking off is
not commenced early the plants will be getting ‘drawn’ before it is
finished.
“After cleaning the beds from which the lettuces were taken, fork over
lightly and add 3 inches more soil; press all down very firmly and
prick out tomato plants 3 inches apart. Do not water. Keep close for a
few days until the plants begin to move, and cover at nights. As the
plants show growth, water gently and give air on mild days, gradually
giving more water and air until the first week in May, when the lights
may be taken off on all mild, genial days. By the middle of the month
leave air on at night, and the last week the lights may be removed
altogether. The weather must be carefully watched, as May is a very
changeable and treacherous month; it is very usual for frosts and cold
weather to return about the middle of the month, and protection must be
given if necessary.
“The ground where the tomatoes are to be set out, should have been
prepared during the winter by digging or deep ploughing; a moderate
dressing of natural manure should have been added if the ground is
poor, but the ground which has previously been heavily manured and
cropped with vegetables will be preferable, no manure being added for
the tomatoes. After digging, give a dressing of basic slag 10 cwt. to
the acre. Have all finished not later than end of February.
“About the middle of May, if the ground is dry, dress with sulphate
of potash 1 hundredweight and sulphate of iron, ground fine, ¼
hundredweight to the acre, then go over all with a hoe and chop down
all weeds and level all hollows; do not rake. At each end of each row,
where it is intended to plant the tomatoes, drive in a pointed stake
of 2 by 4 in. broadway to the row, at a slight angle away. The stake
should enter the ground 2 ft. and stand out 1 ft. 9 in. Then in direct
line with the stakes, at intervals of 10 ft. drive in studding boards
¾ inch × 2 in. × 2 ft. 6 in. long, to stand out of ground 1 ft. 9 in.
The narrow way of the board should be in the line of the row. Now fix
16s gauge galvanized wire to the stake at one end, and draw tight and
fix to stake at the other end. Fix wire to top of stakes by small wire
staple. This should all be done before the plants are set out.
“During the last week in May and first week in June, the plants should
be set out. Water well in the frame, then gently pull the plants and
place as many upright in a basket as it will hold. Drop about twenty
at 18 in. apart; then one person with a small, thin graft, or a garden
trowel, should insert it about 4 in. into the ground at an angle, and
press upwards, slightly raising the soil without disturbing it. A
second person should insert the damp roots of the plant in the nick
and tuck them carefully to the bottom, into the damp soil; remove the
tool gently and press the soil firmly on to the plant with the heel. Do
not water. I have tried many ways of planting tomatoes in the fields,
and this I found to be the best method where large numbers have to be
planted. Where only a small quantity are being handled it is best to
grow them in strawberry baskets or pots, and put the plants out with
the roots undisturbed.
“In a week or two, if the weather is genial, growth will be observed,
and then a dressing of nitrate of soda may be given, about 2
hundredweight to the acre. It should be crushed fine and mixed with
three times its bulk of dry earth or ashes. At the end of June the
plants should be thoroughly sprayed with strawsonite. After spraying,
it will be time to go over the plants, and remove all the side shoots,
keeping the plants to one stem only. When the plants have grown long
enough to reach 6 in. above the wire, they should be again trimmed of
shoots and tied to the wire, resting the stem of the leaf on the wire
before tying. Leave the tie rather slack for expansion of stem. After
trimming and tying, spray again with strawsonite. This work should all
be completed by the beginning of August, if the season is suitable to
growth. If rain falls immediately after spraying, repeat it.
“The fruit should begin to show color by the middle of August, but this
varies considerably with the season and the age of the plants when set
out.
“As soon as the fruit shows pink, it should be gathered and taken to
the packing shed. Do not gather the fruit green if it can be helped,
but wait for a change of color. These gatherings should be continued
at least twice a week so long as the fine weather continues. If the
weather changes to wet after a long dry spell, it is very probable that
many of the fruit will crack, and then it is advisable to gather the
fruit green, if quite fully matured; this will save them from cracking.
If the weather is cold and dull, the plants should be sprayed with
Evans’ Aseptic Spray. This will not leave a stain on the fruit. After
the second week in August, the plants may be topped, as this will help
the fruits to swell, and fruit setting after this date will probably be
useless. Keep the side shoots removed, and remove and shorten bottom
leaves to let the sunlight into the plants. Remember this: plants
allowed to grow close and crowded are much more liable to disease,
and spraying does not thoroughly cover them; also plants with many
shoots make less fruit, of a smaller size, and take longer to ripen;
therefore anyone taking the trouble to raise plants and set them out,
and neglecting them afterwards, is acting very foolishly.
“Continue to gather the fruits as ready, keeping a sharp look-out after
the end of September for signs of frost. When this is feared, gather
all the full-grown fruit on the plants whether green or not—they will
ripen in-doors; but exercise some judgment, and do not gather fruit
which is not full grown. This may color, but even if it does, it will
be shrivelled and a bad color, and will spoil the market for better
fruit. It is better to leave the immature fruit on the plants, as
the frost may pass without doing any material damage, and there may
be several weeks more of mild weather, which will give several more
pickings of full-grown green fruit. I have picked in this way until the
first week in November, some years.
“The fruit must be graded into ‘best smoothing,’ ‘small smooths,’—which
description does not include very small fruits, but only those just too
small for an even sample,—‘seconds,’ and ‘thirds.’ Seconds are good
sound fruit, but include all the misshapen ones. Thirds are sound odds
and ends—it is better to avoid the grade if possible. The fruit is sent
to markets in baskets.
“Tomatoes may be obtained from the open in July by sowing the seed a
month earlier, and growing on with more room in pots. If each plant has
9 in. square of space, and is properly attended to, it will have small
fruits set when planted out, and ripe fruit can be gathered in July.
“_Ridge Cucumbers._ Prepare a good hot-bed as for tomato seed, and on
the last day of April, sow the cucumber seed, two together, at 1½ in.
apart all over the bed; cover with soil, press down, do not water,
close up and cover with mats. The seed will be up in 2 or 3 days. Give
water, plenty of light, but no air; cover at night. Have ready a mild
hot-bed—the bed the lettuces were removed from, if forked over, will
probably do. As soon as the rough leaves are showing, lift each pair
of plants gently with a little soil and pot into large 60s, burying up
to seed leaves. Water as required. Harden gradually by end of May, and
plant out first week in June at 2 ft. apart in rows, and 4 ft. between
the rows. A bed into which a heavy dressing of manure has been dug
during the winter will do very well. As soon as set out, the plants
must be protected by some means, such as placing a flower-pot at night
over each plant, or with paper cones pegged down. It is also advisable
that hurdles covered with straw be run down every 3 or 4 rows to break
the wind. If the plants are helped in this way for a week or two, they
will repay it later on. After planting they should be watered, and this
should be repeated if the weather continues dry. Before they begin
to run, mulch all down each side of the rows with long straw stable
manure. Fruit should be ready middle of July.
“For using the frames after the above plants have been removed, I
recommend Frame Cucumbers. Melons would do equally well, but are
rather more difficult to grow, and I advise cucumbers for a year or
two until experienced. Make up a hot-bed precisely the same as for
Ridge Cucumbers. Fill as many 60s pots as are needed half-full of
prepared soil after covering the drainage hole with broken china. Put
one seed of Telegraph Cucumber on the soil in each pot, fill half the
remaining space with soil and press down with the bottom of a pot.
The soil should be of a nice dampness when used, as the seeds are
better unwatered; the pots, if new, should be soaked in water before
use. Cover up close and keep mats on until seed is up, then only mat
at night. Give no air, water with tepid water as required, shade from
strong midday sun and keep interior of frame moist by dewing over early
each morning. Give the plants room for the leaves to spread. As frames
are emptied of the tomatoes and ridge cucumbers, without waiting for
all of them, fork them over lightly and raise slightly in centre; on
this mound put half a bushel of prepared soil, which should consist
mainly of chopped sod with the grass removed, a little decayed manure,
and a little finely sifted burnt earth or old mortar rubbish. Cover
up close for a day or two for the sun to warm the soil, and then put
two plants in the middle of the light, about 6 in. apart. Pinch out
the centres, allowing only one shoot to grow from each plant. These
should be taken from one plant upwards and the other downwards in the
frame. Keep the growth thin; remove old leaves, one now and then; avoid
overcrowding; if this seems likely, cut some of the shoots right out.
Keep the frame moist, give plenty of tepid water, whiten about half the
glass in the centre and splash the remainder. If these instructions
are carried out, there will be an abundance of cucumbers to cut for
market.
“The frame cucumbers are packed in flats, numbered according to size,
but usually 3 to 4 doz. Put a little hay at the bottom, then cover with
paper, put one layer of fruit very carefully on this and a sheet of
paper over, a little more hay, another sheet of paper, then a layer of
fruit and so on. Three layers generally fill the flat.
“Ridge cucumbers are generally sold by count or in bushels, but when
grown especially fine may be sent in flats as above.”
FOOTNOTES:
[13] NOTE.—“Long” manure contains a good deal of litter that has not
decayed, so that the manure does not break up into fine particles as
“well-rotted” manure does.
Appendix IV.
The _Farm Journal_ for November, 1908, gives the following condensed
list of the short courses offered by the various State Agricultural
Colleges:
Specialized knowledge is the keynote of modern farming success. Why
not give your boy or girl a chance to acquire some of this knowledge?
In winter there will be a let-down of farm activity, and many of Our
Folks could, if they tried, attend one of the short agricultural
courses provided free by nearly every State. In many cases the only
expenses are for board, books, etc., and the total cost of a few
weeks’ course is thus very small. Many grown farmers attend these
courses; there is no age or citizenship limit in most States.
For catalogues and full information write to any of the addresses
given, mentioning this book. For instance, if you live in Alabama,
direct your letter as follows: “J. F. Duggar, Alabama State
Agricultural College, Auburn, Ala.”
Alabama. J. F. Duggar, Auburn: Offers a nine-month course in
agriculture, and a two-year course.
Arizona. R. W. Clothier, Tucson: Offers a two-year course in
irrigation, engineering, farm management, dairying and vegetable
gardening, designed especially to equip students for farming under
Arizona conditions.
Arkansas. John N. Tillman, Fayetteville: Short winter course in
agriculture begins first Monday in January, lasting two weeks.
California. E. J. Wickson, Berkeley: Five different short courses
covering special branches of farming. Write for particulars.
Colorado. B. O. Aylesworth, Fort Collins: A short practical course in
agriculture and domestic science is offered by this institution.
Connecticut. C. L. Beach, Storrs: Dairy and creamery short course of
twelve weeks. Pomology course of twelve weeks. Poultry course of six
weeks. All courses open Tuesday, January 5th. A six-week forestry
course begins November 2d.
Delaware. H. Hayward, Newark: Offers a six-week special course, from
January 4th to February 15th; and a special “Farmers’ Week” from
January 4th to 8th, inclusive.
Florida. Andrew Sledd, Gainesville: A two-year course specially
adapted to the farmer’s boy. The instruction is of an applied nature
with sufficient technical research to lead the student to question
well the reasons for the various farm operations. College moved from
Lake City to Gainesville.
Idaho. H. T. French, Moscow: Short courses are offered in dairying,
extending one year; and farmers’ short courses in dairying and
horticulture, extending six weeks, beginning about middle of January.
Illinois. Eugene Davenport, Urbana: Offers a two-week course in
agriculture, and also in household science, beginning January 13th.
Indiana. J. N. Skinner, Lafayette: Four courses of eight weeks each,
beginning January 18th, as follows: Agriculture and horticulture;
animal husbandry; dairying; household economics.
Kansas. E. R. Nichols, Manhattan: Offers a ten-week farmers’ short
course, beginning January 5th; a ten-week short course in dairying,
beginning January 5th.
Kentucky. Clarence W. Mathews, Lexington: The college is now
occupying its new building; offers a ten-week business course in
agriculture, beginning January 4th. Tuition free to residents of the
State.
Maine. W. D. Hurd, Orono: Offers an eight-week course in dairying,
farm crops and horticulture; a special poultry course; and a
“Farmers’ Week.”
Maryland. R. W. Silvester, College Park: Ten-week course in
agriculture begins Tuesday, January 5th. Terms: Board, $40 for whole
course; tuition free.
Massachusetts. J. A. Foord, Amherst: 1, dairy farming; 2,
horticulture; 3, general agriculture; tuition free; begin first
Wednesday in January and continue ten weeks. Bee culture; begins
fourth Wednesday in May and continues two weeks.
Michigan. R. S. Shaw, East Lansing: Eight-week courses in general
agriculture, horticulture, creamery and cheese making, beginning
January 5th. No charge for tuition; board and lodging cheap.
Minnesota. E. W. Randall, University Farm, St. Paul: Farmers’ short
course opens January 15th and continues four weeks. Dairy school
opens November 16th and continues four weeks.
Nebraska. A. E. Davisson, Lincoln: The winter course opens January
4th and closes February 20th.
New Hampshire. Fred Rasmussen, Durham: A ten-week course in dairying
begins January 5th.
New Jersey. E. B. Voorhees, New Brunswick: Offers three short
courses, beginning December 1st and closing March 5th, as follows:
General agriculture, dairy farming, market gardening and fruit
growing.
North Carolina. C. L. Newman, West Raleigh: The seven-week course in
agriculture begins January 11th; the one-week course in agriculture,
January 4th.
North Dakota. J. H. Worst, Agricultural College P. O.: Winter short
courses in cooking and sewing are offered for the young ladies. Also
winter lecture courses for the men about farming, stock raising, etc.
New York. L. H. Bailey, Ithaca: Five winter courses, in general
agriculture, in dairying, in poultry husbandry, in horticulture and
in home economics. These courses begin December 8th, close February
24th. (See also New Jersey.)
Ohio. H. C. Price, Columbus: Offers a ten-week course in agriculture,
and a similar course in dairying; both begin January 11th. Also a
four-week course in domestic science, beginning February 1st.
Oklahoma. J. H. Connell, Stillwater: Several instructive short
courses are offered. Write for particulars. Five hundred students
attended these courses last year.
Pennsylvania. Alva Agee, State College P. O.: Five winter courses in
agriculture, beginning December 1st and continuing for twelve weeks.
Write for particulars.
Tennessee. H. A. Morgan, Knoxville: An excellent series of short
courses are planned for the new year. Write for particulars.
Texas. S. E. Andrews, College Station P. O.: A two-year course in
practical farm work. Send for details.
Utah. Registrar, Agricultural College, Logan: Offers winter courses
in agriculture or forestry, domestic arts or mechanic arts, beginning
January 5th.
Washington. E. E. Elliott, Pullman: Offers an eight-week course in
dairying and a twenty-week course in agriculture.
Wisconsin. H. L. Russell, Madison: Offers a twelve-week dairy course,
beginning November 4th; a general course (fourteen weeks), beginning
December 5th, and a ten-day farmers’ course, commencing February 2nd.
Wyoming. J. D. Towar, Laramie: The winter course of eight weeks
begins January 4th.
Information regarding the short courses of several State colleges
was not received in time for insertion here, and so such States are
necessarily omitted from the foregoing list.
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs.
Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within the
text and consultation of external sources.
Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, when a
predominant preference was found in the original book.
Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.
Pg 111: ‘LEEK’ replaced by ‘LEEKS’.
Pg 112: ‘cultivaiton’ replaced by ‘cultivation’.
Pg 272: ‘profitble’ replaced by ‘profitable’.
Pg 282: ‘cions’ replaced by ‘scions’.