A HUMILIATING INCIDENT.

There was a night riot in the streets of Ilo, knives gleamed in

ruffian hands, curses and blasphemy fell from sodden lips. Shots were

fired in the thick of the struggling mass, as the mob crowded in

frenzy about some central figure. The crowd from behind pressed

forward and Thompson and I were carried along by the crush of

humanity, until of necessity we began to fight our way out. We had

partially succeeded, when we were surrounded by soldiers. At sight of

the soldiers the crowd began to disperse, but unfortunately for us it

was too late, besides we had nothing to do with the riot, and thought

we had nothing to fear.

The officer stepped up and placed Thompson and I under arrest. We were

searched, but no arms were found on us. However, we were marched away

to jail and our feet placed in iron bars, fastened with a heavy lock,

which compelled us to lie on our backs.

The next morning an officer appeared and I notified him that I was a

British subject, and resented such treatment. He told me that I was

held for attempted murder. Thompson was also under the same charge. An

Italian had been shot and would probably die. I demanded an immediate

trial. Several officers of the railway came and endeavored to set us

free, but their efforts were of no avail. There was no British consul

nearer than Arica, about two days travel by steamer, and no means for

communicating with him until the steamer arrived from the north.

Our prison was an old wooden structure, and only one guard was over

us. The officer and his men had quarters some distance away. It was

our intention to ask the soldier on guard for a drink of water about

midnight, when Thompson would overpower him and take his keys. A

small boat was to be in readiness at a certain place. Our plan was,

after obtaining the keys, to put the soldier in the stocks and walk

out, all of which could easily have been accomplished, as the soldier

was but a small ignorant half-breed Indian. It was Sunday night and we

had decided to put our plan in operation, when--imagine our

surprise--an officer informed us to get ready to take the train for

Moquequa.

We were accompanied by an officer and six men. I asked the officer

what the removal was for, and he said our trial was to be held and it

was necessary for us to be present. I asked permission to speak with

the engineer, which was given. I told him I dreaded being taken into

the interior, as we would be away from our friends, and begged him

when we came to a certain grade along the line to increase the speed

and I would jump off. I was familiar with that part of the country,

knew I could secure a horse and go to Mollendo or Arequipa. I knew

also that the officer and his men had never been on a train, and it

would be impossible for them to give chase.

But we were again doomed to disappointment. The engineer feared to

carry out the plan and instead of increasing speed, went slower than

usual.

On our arrival at Moquequa we were marched through the streets, to my

great humiliation, as I knew many people in the town. Numbers of them

came and offered their sympathy. To our great indignation we were

thrown into a cell with six other prisoners convicted of murder, and a

more ugly, villainous and desperate-looking lot of characters would

have been hard to find anywhere. No attention had been paid to my

remonstrance, when an hour later a gentleman, whom I had favored,

presented himself. After I told him the circumstances of our detention

he said he would send a lawyer to defend us. In the meantime he

arranged with a hotel keeper to send us regular meals, also mattresses

and blankets.

The day following I had many visitors, some drawn by curiosity and

others by sympathy and good will. The latter were profuse in their

attentions. When a lawyer appeared, I related to him the details of

our arrest. I did the talking, as Thompson could not speak the

language, while I was becoming quite proficient in it. Upon leaving,

the lawyer promised to have us free in eight days at most.

I passed away the dreary time pacing that prison cell. It was about

twenty feet long and twelve feet wide, and contained nothing but stone

walls and floor, with a heavy iron-grated window which looked out on

the plaza. A bottle of wine came with each meal, instead of coffee,

and I shared it with the criminals in our cell. In this way I soon won

their good will, and as they had all been convicted of murder, they

did not hesitate to tell me of their horrible crimes.

There is no capital punishment in Peru. Sentence for life, in that

country, means about fifteen years, and seldom do they serve that

length of time. Usually a revolution releases them. At such times

insurgents invariably break open the prisons and liberate the

convicts, which happened to these prisoners a few months later. We

were visited daily by my lawyer and finally were told that four

hundred dollars would be required for our liberation.

"Liberate us and I will give you the money," was my answer.

Next day I bid adieu to my undesirable residence and companions;

Thompson had no money and I paid all. After purchasing new clothes and

receiving the congratulations of friends, we boarded the train for

Ilo. Mr. Hill returned from Lima that day and after learning of the

indignities inflicted upon me, told his officials that they should

have notified the British consul and compelled the Peruvian

authorities to pay, instead of taking my money.

I returned to work in the shops, and three weeks afterward one of the

office clerks came in breathless and told me I was to be arrested

again along with Thompson. The papers would be down from Moquequa

that night and tomorrow morning they would come for us.

I was furious when I realized that we were again facing punishment for

a crime of which we were innocent and I determined to resist arrest,

and leave Ilo.

I went to the office of the secretary of the railroad, and after a

long consultation, it was agreed to have three of Mr. Hill's best

horses in readiness at midnight. One of the hostlers was to accompany

us and when we reached Tambo, Thompson and I would take the train for

Arequipa.

I went to my room, packed my clothes, carefully loaded two revolvers

and placed my trunk and other articles of value in the hands of my

friends, with orders to send them to Arequipa after the sensation of

my escape was over. After supper, to allay any suspicion the

authorities might have, I strolled along the wharf, went into a

billiard hall and actually played a game of billiards with the captain

of the guard, who I have no doubt had the order to arrest me in his

pocket. Thompson had gone to his room. I followed thirty minutes

later, and at precisely twelve o'clock, I sallied out of the house by

the rear, and met Thompson at the agreed place on the beach.

The night was dark, and everything being in readiness, we mounted and

rode through the town dressed like natives. We soon gained the highway

leading to Tambo and after being well clear of Ilo, we put our horses

to their best. We rode the fifty-five miles to Tambo, over a rugged

and mountainous country and caught the train for Arequipa, arriving

that night after an absence for me of two years.

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