On the twenty second of February, Washington’s birth day, a

A

Voyage to South America,

WITH

AN ACCOUNT OF A SHIPWRECK

IN

THE RIVER LA PLATA,

IN

THE YEAR 1817.

By the Sole Surviver.

BOSTON:

PRINTED BY INGRAHAM AND HEWES

1826.

PREFACE.

The haste in which the former edition of this little journal was written

and sent to the press, produced several errors and omissions, which,

in this, I have endeavored to correct and supply; adding, also, a

short account of the situation, population and customs of those places

mentioned in the narrative.

No spectacle on earth, perhaps, which the eye of man can witness, is

fraught with so much interest, sublimity and terror, and no situation

is so awful and appalling, as a midnight shipwreck at sea. In my youth,

I read, with unsatiated avidity, the voyages and disasters of the

adventurous seaman, and I believe the desire for such information is

planted in every human heart.

The remarkable event of one only surviving, in a total shipwreck,

naturally awakens a curiosity to learn the particulars, and by what extra

chances he alone fortunately reached the shore. The following is a tale

of this complexion,

‘Torn from the bosom of the raging sea.’

A few words in its defence are now necessary. Several persons have

indirectly expressed their disbelief, totally or in part, of the

events I have related, and have probably been so induced, from a few

strained expressions which occur in the relation. These should have been

overlooked in a tale which should have been penned with

‘Thoughts that breathe and words that burn.’

That a ship of the name and description mentioned in these pages, sailed

from such port, at such time, with such a company, and freighted with

such a cargo, as I have described; that said ship never reached her port

of destination; and that some time afterwards, the wreck of a large

vessel was discovered on the shores of the La Plata; are facts which no

one, I presume, will deny, for they can be easily and readily proved. If

thus far is admitted, what remains to doubt?

It is the events, then, related in the interim, in which I was

ultimately, and for some days, sole actor, which savors of the

marvellous. But is it so incredible, that in a storm where twenty two

perished in a short time and in a fearful manner, and but one escaped,

that that one should be beset with peril, should win his way, with great

difficulty, to the shore, and suffer the disasters he has attempted to

describe? I have said thus much to destroy these surmises, which, though

indirect and untenable, are grating to the feelings. The nature of this

part of the case precluding the possibility of ocular evidence, I can

only pledge, in support of its truth, my word of honor. All else relating

to the ship may be confirmed by the testimony of several gentlemen now

living in neighboring towns, who were merchants resident at Buenos Ayres

at the time, and who were well acquainted with the transactions, which

were never doubted there. But enough—while others may stagger at the

story, and wonder that he alone should survive; with him, that he escaped

at all, will be the theme of the greatest wonder, and of the deepest

gratitude.

GEORGE FRACKER

NARRATIVE.

I sailed from New York in the ship Ocean, Captain. F., October, 1816,

for the River of Plate. The patriot consul from the republic of Buenos

Ayres, resident there, had contracted with and engaged a French officer

of rank, with eighteen others, who were under his direction, for the

service of his government. This personage had been formerly a colonel

under Bonaparte, and commanded a regiment of Polish lancers—himself, by

birth a Pole. He had accompanied Napoleon to Plymouth in the Bellorephon,

and being denied a passage with him to St. Helena, left England, and

sailed, with several inferior officers, to the United States. Here they

were engaged, as before mentioned, by the envoy. Our ship was fitted

out for their reception, and owned by Mr. H., then high sheriff of New

York. Besides these, we had eight other Frenchmen as passengers, who were

mechanics, architects, &c., and three Americans, comprising, with the

ship’s crew, a goodly company of about forty seven persons. We loosed the

sails, with a moderate breeze and fair, though somewhat hazy. Nothing

material occurred till the third day out, when we experienced a storm,

which lasted, with great violence, about three hours; about dark it

abated. We had got the ship under snug sail, and wearied with the labor

of the day, I retired with the chief mate below, intending to broach a

wine pipe, of which we had two stowed on end, under the after hatchway,

to drink farewell to our homes and success to our ship. On proceeding

from the cabin, through a passage to the steerage, we discovered by the

lantern, a face which I had not before recognised on board. The man

was decently dressed, sitting between the water casks, picking a bone.

On being interrogated, he told us he was an Irishman, of the name of

O’Brien; that bad luck had brought him there, having lost his money; and

that he had smuggled himself on board. I acquainted the captain with the

discovery, and the affair terminated by setting him to work as cook’s

mate; in which capacity he afterwards proved a very useful fellow. The

interference of the French passengers in the affairs of the ship, gave us

much trouble, for which the tars paid themselves on crossing the line.

It had been reported in the papers of the day, at New York, previous to

our sailing, that the Portuguese had declared war against the patriots

of the La Plata, had seized on Monte Video, and were blockading the

port of Buenos Ayres. On Sunday morning, eighty two days out, we passed

Monte Video, in full sight, with a stiff breeze. The day was bright and

beautiful, and the appearance of this walled city as we were borne along

upon the bosom of the majestic La Plata, was to us, who so long had seen

nothing but the ocean and the sky, highly gratifying. Abreast of the

harbor, lay a Portuguese seventy four and several frigates; we ran within

cannon shot of the former, she firing one gun, which we did not regard,

but continued our course in an oblique direction across the river, to

gain the south channel. About four, P. M., we discovered the opposite

shore, and ran within three miles of it, when we struck upon a shoal; the

bottom, fortunately, was of soft mud, though the swell of the sea caused

the ship to strike very heavily. We imagined it to be the Chico Bank,

as we thought Point India Shoal, which, in fact, we were thumping upon,

could not extend so far from the land; the helmsman was therefore ordered

to keep the ship’s head in shore, in order to pass between the bank and

the main; but this movement soon caused her to strike so heavily as to

throw three or four off their legs, and much alarmed the passengers. On

perceiving our error, we immediately braced round the sails and steered

off shore, and after striking again several times, found ourselves once

more in deep water. The navigation at this part of the river is very

difficult and dangerous. Night approaching, we soon after lessened sail

and came to anchor in about ten fathoms, and remained thus for the night.

At day break we again loosened the sails and proceeded up the river.

Capt. F. and the general were upon the look-out aloft, greatly anxious

for the result of this day’s proceedings; the Frenchmen dreading the

Portuguese, and expecting hourly to be boarded by a man of war and taken

prisoners, and the captain also concerned for the safety of his ship.

At ten, A. M., they discovered, from aloft, several vessels, far ahead,

which, enveloped partly in the floating mist of the morning, loomed like

men of war. The merchant vessels in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres are

discovered before you can see the city, from which they are distant

eight or ten miles; where, also, is stationed, at all times, an English

frigate or sloop of war. These, I assured the agitated Frenchmen, were

the ships they now saw; but their fears construed them into the dreaded

Portuguese squadron, and their opinion could not be shaken. The captain

ordered the ship to be brought to. The sails were clued up, the anchor

dropped, and the long boat hoisted out and got alongside. While doing

this, I was sent for in the cabin, where the captain requested me to

get in readiness, with four men, to go in the boat and take the French

officers on shore. They seemed convinced, he said, that the ships ahead

are enemies, and are willing to take the chance of landing here, rather

than to fall into their hands. I received some dollars to pay expenses,

immediately mustered the baggage of the soldiers, and with the general

and nine others, pushed off from the ship and made for the shore, distant

about five miles. We landed about four, P. M., running the boat on the

beach, as she had leaked half full of water, and commenced unlading the

cargo, which comprised all the officers’ trunks, bedding, armour, side

arms, &c., and a small stock of provisions. These were carried through

the bushes to an elevated spot, where there grew a thicket of small sized

trees, by the help of which, the passengers began to erect a kind of

arbor, while I left them, with two of the seamen, to explore the country,

which, probably, before we landed, the human foot had never trod. The

soil we found very wet, and almost impenetrable from the thick growth

of tall reeds. I saw, over the rushes, afar off, a rising ground and a

tree, and thinking it would be a good place for further observations,

I resolved to gain it. Our only method of advancing was by parting the

rushes on each side with our arms, and breaking through the bushes or

creeping under the small trees, which grew here in the thick luxuriance

of unmolested nature. But for the greatest distance, our only method of

progressing was, to lay ourselves at length on the rushes and pressing

them to the ground, to proceed again alternately. We gained, at last, the

desired eminence, and I ascended the tree, but could perceive nothing of

a habitation or cattle, though we had seen the prints of animals’ feet.

By the time we returned, we found the wind, which had been increasing,

now blew a gale on shore; a large surf was rolling in upon the beach,

which at once convinced us of the impossibility of making our way through

it in our leaky boat, back to the ship; we were therefore compelled to

make the best of necessity, and to remain on shore; I directed the men

to bring the boat into a small cove which made into the land, and the

anchor to be carried up the beach and secured. She then rode in her

little bay in safety. It now began to thicken around and to grow dark

and tempestuous, which urged us to turn our thoughts to the means of

shelter and comfort, during what foreboded a dreary, cold and stormy

night. We took a scanty supper of some cold ham and ship bread, and one

bottle of brandy, which nearly consumed our stock of provisions; then,

at the suggestion of the general, all hands turned to in cutting down

armfuls of the long rushes which grew so thick around, to serve for beds,

and in breaking down the branches of decayed trees, &c., for fuel. The

ground was every where very wet, and no dry spot could be found; these

rushes we strewed very thickly on the ground, in the most open place we

could find, in the form of a circle, upon which we were to repose. In

the centre of this we made half a dozen large fires, and then set the

watch, myself and four seamen, as we concluded to let the soldiers do as

best pleased them, which watch was to commence at twelve, midnight, till

which time I was to keep guard; after which, the sailors two hours each,

till morning. This was necessary in order to keep the fires replenished,

for it was freezing cold, to protect us from wild beasts, and to take

care of our boat. At twelve I called the next in turn and laid down, to

try the experiment, if weariness could repose upon a flint, for I had

a stone for my pillow, or what was worse, upon the wet ground. I had

no outside covering, neither had the seamen, but labor compelled us to

sleep. I awoke about day-light, and my feelings were indescribable; the

morning was boisterous, the fires were wholly extinct, and had been so a

long time. The men from fatigue had fallen into a deep sleep, and snoring

around. I attempted to rise, but was surprised to find my limbs so stiff

and nerveless; my senses too seemed almost as stiff as my bones, I felt

light headed, and half crazy, the effect of sleeping on wet ground. I

walked round in search of the general, who was lying with his associates

in a cluster, on the opposite side of the fires, well sheltered from

the severity of the night and the earth, by their mattresses, and ample

coverings of surtouts, cloaks and wrappers. I acquainted him of my

intention of returning on board the ship. He then pencilled a note to

Captain F. informing him he was resolved to endeavor to penetrate by

land to Ensenada, and from whence, should he arrive there, to send down

a conveyance for his men. We then pushed off with the boat, and after

a long and strong pull reached the ship; on entering on board we found

but two men, the captain and cook; the seamen wearied by the preceding

night’s fatigue, had turned in. Many congratulations passed at meeting

again, with the seamen, as each party knew it had been a hard night to

both. A part of one cable was hauled in upon the forecastle. The captain

informed me he had lost the best bower, and was resolved to remain no

longer in the river with but one anchor; he requested me, therefore,

to take the remaining Frenchmen on shore and make for Ensenada by land

or water, as soon as convenient. As the wind was fair up the river, he

should directly weigh and set sail, stating that if once rid of the

troublesome Frenchmen he had nothing to fear.

The remaining party was soon collected and seemed unwilling to go

on shore through fear of falling into Portuguese hands. These we

likewise landed on the beach, being all the French passengers. The ship

immediately threw out her sails and was soon out of sight. Most of these

officers had been troublesome guests, and were discontented, insolent,

and heartily disliked by the ship’s company; but one of a captain’s

rank, was of a different mould; he was frank and intelligent, fine form

and features, and by his gentlemanly deportment, and many virtues,

had endeared himself throughout the passage to us Americans. To him,

in Spanish, on stepping on shore, I addressed myself relative to our

situation and prospects. The general with his servant had left them in

the morning to penetrate his way to Ensenada, as before intended. While

speaking to this officer, a quarrel had arisen between his comrades and

the four sailors, which we endeavored to quell. The captain remonstrated

in vain, and they had proceeded to blows, and the first party being now

joined by the others, were running for their arms, which hung on the

arbor above, and serious consequences were likely to ensue. I therefore

deemed it prudent to leave them to their fate, and hastily shook hands

with my friend, and ordered the men to jump into the boat and pull

away. It was instantly done, and we had gained a considerable distance

before our adversaries had reached the beach. Astonished at this sudden

and unexpected movement, they hallooed and loaded us with threats and

imprecations; but disregarding all, we laid in our oars, and hoisted a

large lug mainsail, and kept foaming on our way, the wind being fresh and

fair; and shaping our course for Ensenada, we kept steadily along the

shore, though at a considerable distance from it, on account of shoals.

I had previously been in the above place four years before, in 1812; I

was well acquainted with the entrance, the several creeks, and a number

of the villagers. In a short time after our departure with the boat,

while sailing rapidly with a stiff breeze, one of our men discovered

abreast of us, on a pole, a signal of a white handkerchief, displayed in

one of the nooks or windings of the beach. I directly stood in shore to

ascertain what was meant, and as we neared the strand, we discovered to

our great surprise, the party of artizans which we had last landed from

the ship, and who had left us immediately on landing, to plod their way

on foot along shore, to our place of destination. So great was their

eagerness to reach the boat, that many waded up to their chins in water,

and nearly capsized us in their hurry to tumble on board. They gave us

a direful account of their progress over the rocks, puddles, flints,

&c. of the beach, having to trudge barefoot, with their shoes in their

hands, as the ground was so interrupted and broken, that they were often

up mid-deep in water in wading from one point of land to another. Indeed

the contortions of faces, and lacerated feet, gave strong evidence of

very rough treatment. After a rapid run of about an hour, we saw the

entrance of Ensenada, and by cutting through a small creek across a point

of land, soon found ourselves in the channel; by the appearance of the

rushes it was nearly high water, and we soon pulled up along side of a

dismantled ship, and saw several others. I directly ascended on board,

but found no one on deck; on entering the cabin, I saw at the bottom of

the companion way, a foreigner smoking his cigaro de papel. I inquired

in Spanish what ship, &c. and if the Portuguese were blockading Buenos

Ayres? ‘Nothing like it,’ he answered in Portuguese, but that they had

possession of Monte Video, and a small squadron there. Highly gratified

with this intelligence, and eased of our apprehensions, we left her

and struck into a small creek which led up to the village; here we

lowered the mainsail, and took to the oars, as the creeks are here very

irregular and narrow, and we in rowing struck each bank with our oars.

After pulling about a quarter of a mile, we fell in with a boat with two

persons in the stern, and rowed by two seamen, who, with the boat, looked

like American. I instantly recognised one of the gentlemen as a Mr. B.,

who I had formerly been well acquainted with in Buenos Ayres. ‘Where in

the name of wonder, my friend,’ he asked, ‘are you from, with that dismal

set of fellows?’ ‘From New York,’ I replied. ‘What! in that boat?’ (for

he had seen no ship) ‘Oh no! we landed a score of Frenchmen about four

leagues below, for fear of the Portuguese, and the passengers are some

of them, which we picked up along shore.’ The boats were now alongside

together, and my friend B. introduced me to Captain B., of the ship A.,

of Baltimore, then lying in the channel waiting freight. He advised me to

proceed to the captain of the port, Mr. J., to whose house they were then

going, and report myself. I thought myself fortunate in falling in, by

chance, with such good company, and on landing, we took the direct path

to the captain of the port’s house. This part of the country is extremely

low and level, insomuch as two feet above the usual tides would inundate

the country for many miles around. The houses are thinly scattered,

and the people sociable and friendly. But I shall defer a further

description for the present, and continue the story. To this officer,

the captain of the port, the second in consequence in the village, and

an American, I introduced myself, and briefly related the occurrences

which brought us into Ensenada; after some conversation, we proceeded

towards the landing place to procure accommodations for the men, whom I

left in the boat, awaiting my return. In passing by a pulperia, or small

tavern, (where they sell groceries, and can occasionally supply beds

and victuals to the lower classes) we were soon apprised by their noisy

shouts of mirth, that they were within, regaling themselves upon the

publican’s vino-carlon and sausages, and congratulating themselves on

falling in with so snug a birth after the stormy nights at sea. The port

officer agreed with the pulpero for the daily supply and lodgings for

the men while we should remain at Ensenada. From thence we visited the

commandant, who lived about half a mile from the creek. Here we found a

small party of soldiers, through which we passed, and were ushered into

the presence of the chief magistrate. He appeared to be about fifty years

of age, very corpulent, with a fat, contented face. After hearing the

story, every thing was in motion. The landing, within his jurisdiction,

of a score of friends from America, was an important affair, and happened

but rarely in this quiet village, where, in general, the greatest stretch

of his abilities and power consisted in stifling the tumultuous rows of

the sailors from the ships, on Sundays, or signing passports for Buenos

Ayres. In conjunction with Mr. J., he procured guides, horses, riders and

carts, to proceed in search of the abandoned party. As they were officers

sent out by the consul for the patriot army, he wisely considered they

had a claim upon his services and assistance.

The next morning at day break, the caravan of carts set out from the

magistrate’s in quest of the absent party, with orders to lose no

time, but to proceed till they found them, and to bring them to his

house forthwith. I now took up my abode at the house of Mr. J., where

I remained during my stay in this place. During the forenoon of the

following day, the carts returned with the wanderers. They were found in

a miserable plight, near a swamp, from which they had just extricated

themselves, covered with sweat and mud, and nearly exhausted from fatigue

and hunger. They were kept partially guarded at the commandant’s house

till an answer to his express should arrive from Buenos Ayres, to which

place he had written, relating the strange manner of their falling into

his hands. On the evening of the third day, the much expected letters

arrived. The captain of the port had instructions to permit myself and

crew to depart at pleasure, and the commandant had directions to pay

every attention to the French officers, and to furnish means to conduct

them to Buenos Ayres. Early the next morning, receiving a passport from

the captain of the port, and a small basket of provisions, to which we

added a jug of wine and keg of water, we started in our boat, (myself

and the four seamen) for Buenos Ayres. We pulled away at the oars for

about three miles, till we had doubled a point of land, when we hoisted

a sail, and were able, with the wind, to make a stretch up the river.

We kept wholly along shore, and in about five hours sail, discerned the

merchantmen in the offing of Buenos Ayres, and passed the English frigate

and native guard brig without molestation. After passing the small craft

in the inner roads to windward, in a passage of six and a half hours,

we landed at the Mole-Head. This is the only landing place, saving the

custom house, of the port. There are no piers or wharves, and the shore,

or river side, is wholly occupied by washer-women, who line the whole

surface of the beach, and who, with their black limbs and snow-white

clothes spread around, present a busy and singular appearance. I procured

lodgings for the men at a house in the street near the beach, and then

went in search of the captain, who I presumed was ashore, as we had seen

the ship in the outer roads; but he had not yet landed. In the afternoon,

however, I fell in with him near the Mole, having just landed. In the

morning a pilot was procured and we went on board; and that day the

ship, after losing her long boat, which filled and swamped while under

way, and broke her fast, was brought in to an anchor in the inner roads.

On the twenty second of February, Washington’s birth day, a phenomenon

took place at Buenos Ayres, which will ever be remembered by those who

witnessed it, and which I believe has never been recorded. On the morning

of that day, while lying off from the shore about three quarters of a

mile—the men being employed, as usual, in washing the decks, being about

half past seven, and the sun two hours high—‘Jack,’ says one of the

men to his shipmate, after he had thrown his bucket of water, and was

observing the weather, ‘what means that cloud of dust in the wake of the

town, yonder?’ Before the question could be answered by his comrade,

however, the uncommon appearance of this dense body of dust, and the wild

appearance of the sky, had rivetted the eyes of all on board. ‘Stand by

the cable tier!’ vociferated the chief mate; ‘jump down and be ready to

pay out—bear a hand, my hearties, here’s a pampero coming, driving the

world before him.’ The black cloud of dust now rising and expanding in

awful grandeur, and extending over half the horizon, rapidly approached

us, immediately followed by an immense shroud of impenetrable darkness,

which rose beneath and followed it. As the ship lay broadside to the

shore, I was proceeding from midships to the helm, in order to bring

her head to wind; but I was arrested in my progress by total darkness

and the tremendous blast, which at once, struck the ship and nearly

capsized her, and had to secure myself by clenching the railing. This is

indeed a phenomenon, I exclaimed to the chief mate; what comes next? but

astonishment kept him and all others deprived, for the time, of speech.

Here, for a few moments, was a grand and awfully sublime spectacle; on

one side of us was a body of almost palpable darkness, and on the other,

the fair light of heaven. Expecting momently to be blown to the other

regions, we waited, breathlessly, the result of this wonder of nature for

about twenty minutes, when the field of darkness passed through, and was

driven beyond us to the other side, and in its vacancy the light slowly

returned; thus we had repeatedly light on one side and darkness on the

other. On discerning the features of each other, we were surprised at

their ludicrous complexion; a sooty black dust had overspread our faces,

and rendered our appearance like that of negroes. On recovering from

our surprise, we found we had sustained no other damage than dragging

our anchors a few cables length; but other vessels, near us before, we

scarcely could recognise, they had drifted so far. The remainder of the

day was boisterous and rainy, attended with heavy thunder and lightning.

The sailors considered this event as a voice of Providence, and the

carpenter piously believed it a judgment on the sinful inhabitants of the

land. In the city, a greater degree of consternation prevailed. Many, at

the time, were in the streets, going and returning from market; but the

sudden absence of light compelled every one to remain as he was caught,

with caravans of mules, droves of horses, &c., while milk boys, priests

and begging friars, dropped on their knees and earnestly implored the

protection of the saints.

In April, the ship having altered her destination, I obtained a release,

not choosing to return home, and desirous of seeing more of the world.

Soon after, meeting with an old acquaintance, a sea captain, he proposed

to me a birth in a good ship, soon to sail to Valparaiso, in the Pacific,

doubling Cape Horn, and from thence westwardly to Canton, and returning

by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, thus completing the circumnavigation

of the globe, or the sailing round the world. This was just what I

wished, and which would occupy, probably, twenty or twenty four months.

While making preparations, however, news arrived from the Pacific,

detrimental to the sale of the cargo they were receiving on board, which

was matte or yerba, (Paraguay tea) which they were obliged to discharge;

and much to my mortification the voyage was altered. In the month of May,

however, I entered as second officer on board of this ship, the Jane,

Captain William Seaboth, bound to Brazil, with a cargo of hides. Our

departure was sometime retarded by striking on the bar, in going out,

which damaged our rudder and detained us nearly six weeks. Towards the

middle of June, however, we again set sail, and after a pleasant passage

of twenty days, came to anchor in the harbor of Rio Janeiro. Here we

had to remain nearly two months, for freight. We succeeded at last in

procuring it, consisting of nearly two hundred pipes of wine, several

hundred barrels of flour, tobacco in baskets, crockery ware, dry goods,

salmon and Irish butter in kegs, salchina, or salt pork, which is the

side of a hog rolled up hard and put in a basket of the shape of a meal

bag, &c. &c.; a very full cargo. We had on board five passengers, two

of them Spaniards, a German, an Englishman and an American, as follows:

Senior Monasteria, an eminent engineer, whose wife and four children were

living in Buenos Ayres, of which he was a valuable citizen, aged about

forty five; Senior Barras, a resident of Rio, of a weak constitution,

who had undertaken this passage on account of his low state of health,

and about twenty years of age. On the day of our departure from Rio, his

father, an aged Spaniard, who resided there, came on board to see that

every thing was prepared for his comfort, and to take a farewell of his

only son. Mynheer Mann, a German gentleman, who had been for some years

a resident of Rio Janeiro, and had before freighted vessels and taken

passage in them from thence to Monte Video; he was a man of middle age,

of prepossessing appearance, a gentleman and a scholar, and possessing

the milk of human kindness in an eminent degree. Francis Summers, a

North Briton, aged about thirty, who had likewise long resided in Buenos

Ayres, Monte Video, and Rio Janeiro, and had many acquaintances in all

those places; he was strong and athletic, of enterprising habits, and his

loss was deeply lamented. Lastly, Mr. Tiernay, an American, (naturalized)

who, I believe, was a native of France, the language of which he

spoke with ease; he was a large and well proportioned man, of great

information, and easy and sociable manners. He had left Baltimore about

a year previous, with a freight, which he advantageously disposed of at

Rio, and on the arrival of the Union, Captain P., of Boston, purchased

about four hundred barrels of flour and put on board of our vessel, which

would have brought a great price at Monte Video had our ship reached the

port.

Our captain was by birth a Dane, a large and corpulent man, a perpetual

smoker, a great eater, drank nothing but water, talked but little and

played admirably upon the piano forte, having one in his state room. He

was a man of a most phlegmatic and easy temper, upon which fair weather

or foul, bad luck or good, could make no perceptible impression. The

slaves were freshly imported, untamed sons of Angola; the seamen, (Swedes

and Englishmen) much like all other sailors, careless, illiterate, rough

and honest. We were plentifully stocked with provisions and liquors of

all kinds, such as wine, oranges, poultry, pigs, two goats for milking,

three monkies for mischief, a dog, a cat, and about twenty parrots and

paraquitos. Thus comfortably provided, in the morning of the third of

September, 1817, we were wafted out of the harbor by a cheering breeze

from the land, in company with six or eight sail of large Portuguese

Indiamen, two English ships for Lima, an English schooner for Monte

Video, and an American ship (the Diomede, of Salem, Captain Page) for

Buenos Ayres, and several coasting sumacos.

The view of this part of the Coast of Brazil, near the entrance of this

harbor is, perhaps, no where surpassed in point of majestic grandeur

and beauty. The cloud capp’t—but of this in another place. Nothing of

consequence occurred during the passage, till within about fifty leagues

of the mouth of the La Plata. About ten, A. M., on the fourteenth of

September, a man at work aloft arrested the dull, monotonous sounds of

the winds and waves, by the cry of sail ho! It was the first time we had

heard that ever welcome exclamation, and we were eager now to approach

and hail the supposed vessel. The helmsman was directed to keep in a

direct course for the sail. With a stiff breeze and fair wind we rapidly

neared it, when it began to assume a different appearance—the sails and

masts were no longer visible. The hull, however, was still plainly seen,

and looked like the wreck of some large vessel, and some, by the help of

glasses, affirmed they could distinctly perceive her broken timbers.

This was the general belief, nor were we undeceived till we were within

hail of it, when the supposed hull of a foundered frigate, proved to be

but the wreck of a prodigious South Atlantic whale! From his appearance,

he had been dead a long while; he had opened, on the upper surface, his

whole length, and presented an immense yawning breach, on each side of

which, appeared his large ribs and bones. He lay in an inclined position,

which prevented the swelling surge from entering and filling him, though

it would dash in a foam around him; this gave him, even at a moderate

distance, the appearance of a large wreck. A vast number of sea birds had

alighted upon him, and with large shoals of various fish, were eagerly

assisting to devour him.

The next day we fell in with and spoke the English brig Mary, from

Liverpool, bound to Buenos Ayres, seventy three days out. It being

about meridian, with fair weather and smooth sea, we gave the captain

an invitation to dine with us, which he accepted; and, accordingly, we

backed topsails and lay too, the brig doing the same, when we lowered the

boat from the stern, conducted him on board of us, hoisted up the boat,

filled the sails again and then bore away. This commander was dressed, as

English captains frequently are at sea, in a check shirt, short jacket,

leather cap, and tarry trowsers. A novice could not have distinguished

him from one of his crew; he was, however, sociable and friendly, had

brought a fine large Cheshire cheese with him, and took in return a half

dozen of wine. The next day we lost sight of him, he being light and a

faster sailer. The morning was rather hazy when we entered the river,

which we knew we were in, by the changed color of the water. The land was

soon plainly seen, stretching low from Cape St. Mary up the river, with

the sandy beaches, trees, and hills. We passed Lobos, or Seal Island,

about nine, A. M. These seals or sea wolves appeared at this time in

greater numbers here, than I had ever seen them. We passed Moldonado, a

small town, about eleven—continuing our course up the river with a light

but fair wind, till towards sunset, when the fog still becoming more

dense, the wind increasing and night approaching, it was determined to

haul off shore for several miles, and thus gain an offing for anchorage

during the night. We accordingly came to anchor about fifteen miles below

Monte Video, our first destined port to the leeward of Flores, or Isle of

Flowers—the wind now blowing fresh from the south east. At eight o’clock,

the gale increasing very fast, we payed out a long scope of cable, and

she seemed for the present to ride easy, and with much less straining.

Between this time and nine o’clock, while supper was preparing below, and

the crew in the forecastle, the captain and myself, with his inseparable

solace, a cigar, were walking the quarter deck, balancing ourselves to

the roll and plunges and lurches of the vessel; conversing upon the

events of the passage, the character of our passengers, and on the happy

prospects of breakfasting next morning in Monte Video. In concluding the

conversation, Captain S., after looking around upon the portentous sky

and troubled waves, made the following memorable observation. ‘But keep a

good look out to-night, Mr. F., and tend well the cable, for if we drive

ashore here, we are all lost.’ We then descended the cabin, giving charge

to the watch, and sat down with light and still happy hearts, to supper.

Happy were we all in the idea of being so near the end of our voyage—but

how unconscious that the supper we partook of, was the last to be taken,

and that six brief hours should end the voyage of life with all, save

one. Little, for my own part, did I dream of or presage its sad reality.

I had formed plans, which, on shore with my adventurers, were brilliant

in prospective, and I indulged in pleasing reveries. After the removal of

the cloth, wine was passed around, and the cabin at this time presented

a group of happy and expecting mortals, who, after the dangers of the

ocean, and almost in hail of their homes, were congratulating themselves

upon the fair prospect of the pleasures before them.

I ascended on deck, to observe the weather before I turned in. The gale

still continued to increase—the ship pitching very heavily, plunging bows

under, and wet from fore to aft by the sea and the spray. After seeing

all snug, and leaving the deck in charge of the officer of the watch, I

descended, and turned into my hammock, stripping off only my outer great

jacket. At twelve, midnight, after passing a sleepless and anxious watch

below, with sensations as strange and uneasy as the laboring motions

of the ship, I came upon deck to relieve the watch. I went forward and

examined the cables at the hawse holes, to see if the canvas or service

needed renewing from the chafing; and seeing all was well, I returned to

the quarter deck, to the lead line. The watch which had been relieved,

had retired and turned in, and myself, boatswain and four men, remained

as the watch on deck. The ship was rolling and pitching most laborsome,

as the weather current was very strong. ‘An uncomfortable night this,

sir,’ said the boatswain, who was a great talker, ‘and infernal cold

for a warm country—faith, I must button up my monkey, and secure my

tarpaulin, if we are to stand this weather here on deck for four hours.

Whew! this is a snorter; and we must keep well aft, or else a sea from

over the bows there, will throw us off our legs, or a spray give us a

drencher to freshen our eyelids. D—n her, how she jumps and pitches;

well, for my part, give me a ship under sail, with the wind a-beam to

steady her, instead of lying here at anchor, where she tumbles about

like a chip in a frog pond.’ The moon was now about half an hour high.

From the feeling of the lead, I was fearful that the ship had been, and

was still fast drifting. The motion of the vessel and strong current,

prevented my knowing this to a certainty—while at the line, I observed

an unusual white foam to the leeward, and remarked it to the boatswain.

He replied, he thought it no more than the curling tops of the waves.

Not satisfied with this, I went aft into the yawl over the stern, and

was soon convinced they were that dread of sailors, breakers, and not

far from us. I quickly went below, and awoke the captain, who was in a

secure and profound sleep! by violently shaking him; and with a loud cry

of ‘breakers!’ aroused the passengers. I then went forward to get ready

another anchor, and several men were clearing the cable tier below. The

captain had just gained the deck, when, at quarter past twelve, the

vessel struck. The shock sunk upon the hearts of those on board, like

the summons for sudden death—and with reason. All knew that while the

ship rode clear of the ground, they were in safety; but the moment she

struck, their minutes were numbered, and death inevitable. Those below

were directly alarmed by the shock, and hurried affrighted to the deck.

Another blow soon followed—then another, and another, still more heavy.

A heavy sea soon struck over the bows, and knocked down several seamen,

and obliged them to retreat to the quarter deck. The seas began now to

break over the whole weather side, and all were palsied with horror on

looking around at the awful, prospect—the tremendous surge, and the fate

which could not be shunned. The passengers and seamen had all reached

the deck, excepting the carpenter, who lay sick in his hammock in the

steerage—some, in nothing but their shirts, and all half dressed, or

with some clothes in their hands. On seeing their perilous situation,

the clothes were dropped, and they secured their hold to the rigging—the

ship continually striking. The captain ordered the steward to secure some

articles in the cabin; he descended, but soon came up with the dismal

tidings that every thing was adrift and the cabin full of water. ‘Cut

away the masts! cut away the masts!’ he then cried out. I went forward

to the carpenter’s chest; I asked several for the axe. ‘We don’t know of

any axe, sir,’ was the answer. ‘Lord have mercy upon us.’ The seas now

forced all to secure their holds. Young Summers had gained the weather

main shrouds, nearly naked and drenched by every sea. ‘Fracker, where

are you,’ he exclaimed, in a voice of despair. ‘Here am I, Frank,’ I

replied, holding on with the rest—‘God only can help us now.’ One sailor

alone, delirious with horror that stupified others, was loud in his cries

of despair. Irritated at such cowardice in one who had been a bullying,

boisterous fellow, I told him hastily to stop his clamors, and not thus

to discourage others; that if he wished to save himself, it must be by

exertion, and not lamentation; and that the ship could, possibly, hold

together till day-light. But the others stood inanimate; and despair and

horror at their inevitable fate, deprived them of all motion, speech or

sensation of danger. The seas at this time were making complete cataracts

over every part of the ship, and perceiving I should soon have to commit

myself to the waves, I threw off my pea jacket and hat into the sea. Most

of the crew and passengers were holding firmly on the different parts

of the quarter deck, and three or four naked, shivering wretches, had

ventured partly up the shrouds, clinging with ghastly looks to the ropes,

as their last hold, from which the merciless waves were tearing them

in succession, and they were instantly overwhelmed and buried in their

bosoms.

From the time she had first struck, the sea had so completely burst over

us, that it rendered every effort of endeavoring to help ourselves,

useless and dangerous—in our first intentions of cutting the cables,

making some sail, or, at the worst, to cut away the masts, and driving

as fast as possible on shore. Such, indeed, was its sudden violence,

that nothing was soon thought of but to attempt to hold on as long as

possible, and all other efforts were impracticable and abandoned. Ten or

twelve of us, at this time, were holding on to the weather quarter rail;

every sea, a solid body of water, to which at its approach we presented

our bare heads, would immediately wash us off our legs horizontally, at

arm’s length, and the comrade at my side, with several others, were torn

from their grasp, and hurled and buried amid the wreck and water.

Finding it impossible to stand this suffocating drenching any longer,

and my arms weak from such powerful stretching, I watched my chance,

after a prodigious surge roared over me, loosed my hold, seized the

mizen backstay, climbed over the heads of some who were clinging to the

rigging, and happily gained the mizen top, advising the rest to follow,

as I was certain no man could stand the force of such terrific seas five

minutes longer. Here, in the mizen top, in the interval of the ship’s

striking, I fell to thrashing myself, and preparing for the waves. My

body and limbs had become much benumbed, from the severe drenching below,

and my feet were entirely without feeling. I took off my shoes and began

to beat the soles of my feet with them; by which means, and by violently

thrashing my body with my arms, I succeeded, at last, in circulating the

blood, and rendering myself once more warm. While aloft, I drew out my

knife and cut away the gaskets which confined the mizen topsail, wishing,

by this, to drive her further towards the shore, which I could not yet

discover. I also succeeded in cutting away several of the lanyards of

the topmast rigging, hoping that the topmast might go over and leave the

mizenmast standing till the last, to hold on to; but this was unavailing,

as the keel having been beat off, the masts ultimately gave way in the

steps.

I looked down below, and beheld, with varied emotions, and not without a

degree of painful pleasure, a shipwreck, in which the fearful and the

sublime were strongly blended. It was a sight from which I could not wish

to avert my eyes, though I would have given worlds, at the same moment,

for a foothold of safety. Holding on to the topmast rigging, and bending

over the top, I watched, with straining eyes, the scene of death and

destruction, so busily and clamorously carried on beneath me. Of those

whom I had left grasping the quarter rail, I saw the three last washed

from their holds, who soon met death. The mainmast having topgallant

yard across, likewise fell over the side, and unluckily the wrong side,

being to windward, off shore, which I was sorry to see, the ship laying

broadside to the waves, and heeled much to windward. The moon had not

yet set, and though obscured, enabled me to see, distinctly, the dire

effects of the tempest. The long boat was forced from her head gripes and

fastenings, and forced round, end on, to the sea; a second wave struck

her stern, and instantly her fragments and contents were thrown beyond

me, and the small boat, astern, instantly after, followed, borne on the

top of a sea, with all her appendage of davils, tackles and lashings.

The foremast, I imagined, would now speedily fall, as from its rolling I

supposed its step was gone, as the ship beat heaviest at the fore part;

but on the contrary, I soon found myself going over with the mizen mast,

which fell and carried me along with it. I was plunged into the sea, and

received a few scratches and bruises, but happily extricated myself from

beneath the ropes, got round the top, and crawling down by the upper

rigging, with difficulty regained the ship.