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CASSELL’S NATIONAL LIBRARY
* * * * *
TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF AFRICA
BY
MUNGO PARK
VOL. II.
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CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED:
_LONDON_, _PARIS_, _NEW YORK & MELBOURNE_.
1887.
INTRODUCTION.
THE first of the two volumes which contain Mungo Park’s “Travels in the
Interior of Africa” brought him through many perils to the first sight of
the Niger, and left him sick and solitary, stripped of nearly all that he
possessed, a half-starved white man on a half-starved horse. He was
helped on by a bag of cowries from a kindly chief; but in this volume he
has not advanced far before he is stripped of all.
There is not in the range of English literature a more interesting
traveller’s tale than was given to the world in this book which this
volume completes. It took the deeper hold upon its readers, because it
appeared at a time when English hearts began to be stirred by the wrongs
of slavery. But at any time there would be strong human interest in the
unconscious painting of the writer’s character, as he makes his way over
far regions in which no white man had before been seen, with firm resolve
and with good temper as well as courage and prudence, which bring him
safe through many a hair-breadth escape. There was a true kindness in
Mungo Park that found answering kindness and brought out the spirit of
humanity in those upon whose goodwill his life depends; in the negroes
often, although never in the Moors. There was no flinching in the man,
who, when robbed of his horse, stripped to the shirt in a forest and left
upon a lion’s track, looked down with a botanist’s eye on the beauty of a
tiny moss at his feet, drew comfort from it, and laboured on with quiet
faith in God. The same eye was as quick to recognise the diverse
characters of men. In Mungo Park shrewd humour and right feeling went
together. Whatever he had to say he said clearly and simply; and it went
straight home. He had the good fortune to be born before “picturesque
writing” was invented. When we return to the Gambia with Mungo Park
under the same escort with a coffle of slaves on their way to be shipped
for the use of Christians, from the strength of his unlaboured narrative
we get clear knowledge unclouded by a rainbow mist of words. He is of
one blood with the sailors in whom Hakluyt delighted.
CHAPTER XVI.
VILLAGES ON THE NIGER—DETERMINES TO GO NO FARTHER EASTWARD.
BEING, in the manner that has been related, compelled to leave Sego, I
was conducted the same evening to a village about seven miles to the
eastward, with some of the inhabitants of which my guide was acquainted,
and by whom we were well received. {7} He was very friendly and
communicative, and spoke highly of the hospitality of his countrymen, but
withal told me that if Jenné was the place of my destination, which he
seemed to have hitherto doubted, I had undertaken an enterprise of
greater danger than probably I was apprised of; for, although the town of
Jenné was nominally a part of the king of Bambarra’s dominions, it was in
fact, he said, a city of the Moors—the leading part of the inhabitants
being bushreens, and even the governor himself, though appointed by
Mansong, of the same sect. Thus was I in danger of falling a second time
into the hands of men who would consider it not only justifiable, but
meritorious, to destroy me, and this reflection was aggravated by the
circumstance that the danger increased as I advanced in my journey, for I
learned that the places beyond Jenné were under the Moorish influence in
a still greater degree than Jenné itself, and Timbuctoo, the great object
of my search, altogether in possession of that savage and merciless
people, who allow no Christian to live there. But I had now advanced too
far to think of returning to the westward on such vague and uncertain
information, and determined to proceed; and being accompanied by the
guide, I departed from the village on the morning of the 24th. About
eight o’clock we passed a large town called Kabba, situated in the midst
of a beautiful and highly cultivated country, bearing a greater
resemblance to the centre of England than to what I should have supposed
had been the middle of Africa. The people were everywhere employed in
collecting the fruit of shea trees, from which they prepare the vegetable
butter mentioned in former parts of this work. These trees grow in great
abundance all over this part of Bambarra. They are not planted by the
natives, but are found growing naturally in the woods; and in clearing
woodland for cultivation every tree is cut down but the shea. The tree
itself very much resembles the American oak, and the fruit—from the
kernel of which, being first dried in the sun, the butter is prepared by
boiling the kernel in water—has somewhat the appearance of a Spanish
olive. The kernel is enveloped in a sweet pulp, under a thin green rind;
and the butter produced from it, besides the advantage of its keeping the
whole year without salt, is whiter, firmer, and, to my palate, of a
richer flavour, than the best butter I ever tasted made from cow’s milk.
The growth and preparation of this commodity seem to be among the first
objects of African industry in this and the neighbouring states, and it
constitutes a main article of their inland commerce.
We passed, in the course of the day, a great many villages inhabited
chiefly by fishermen, and in the evening about five o’clock arrived at
Sansanding, a very large town, containing, as I was told, from eight to
ten thousand inhabitants. This place is much resorted to by the Moors,
who bring salt from Berroo, and beads and coral from the Mediterranean,
to exchange here for gold dust and cotton cloth. This cloth they sell to
great advantage in Berroo, and other Moorish countries, where, on account
of the want of rain, no cotton is cultivated.
I desired my guide to conduct me to the house in which we were to lodge
by the most private way possible. We accordingly rode along between the
town and the river, passing by a creek or harbour, in which I observed
twenty large canoes, most of them fully loaded, and covered with mats to
prevent the rain from injuring the goods. As we proceeded, three other
canoes arrived, two with passengers and one with goods. I was happy to
find that all the negro inhabitants took me for a Moor, under which
character I should probably have passed unmolested, had not a Moor, who
was sitting by the river-side, discovered the mistake, and, setting up a
loud exclamation, brought together a number of his countrymen.
When I arrived at the house of Counti Mamadi, the dooty of the town, I
was surrounded with hundreds of people speaking a variety of different
dialects, all equally unintelligible to me. At length, by the assistance
of my guide, who acted as interpreter, I understood that one of the
spectators pretended to have seen me at one place, and another at some
other place; and a Moorish woman absolutely swore that she had kept my
house three years at Gallam, on the river Senegal. It was plain that
they mistook me for some other person, and I desired two of the most
confident to point towards the place where they had seen me. They
pointed due south; hence I think it probable that they came from Cape
Coast, where they might have seen many white men. Their language was
different from any I had yet heard. The Moors now assembled in great
number, with their usual arrogance, compelling the negroes to stand at a
distance. They immediately began to question me concerning my religion,
but finding that I was not master of Arabic, they sent for two men, whom
they call _Ilhuidi_ (Jews), in hopes that they might be able to converse
with me. These Jews, in dress and appearance, very much resemble the
Arabs; but though they so far conform to the religion of Mohammed as to
recite in public prayers from the Koran, they are but little respected by
the negroes; and even the Moors themselves allowed that, though I was a
Christian, I was a better man than a Jew. They however insisted that,
like the Jews, I must conform so far as to repeat the Mohammedan prayers;
and when I attempted to waive the subject by telling them that I could
not speak Arabic, one of them, a shereef from Tuat, in the Great Desert,
started up and swore by the Prophet that if I refused to go to the
mosque, he would be one that would assist in carrying me thither; and
there is no doubt that this threat would have been immediately executed
had not my landlord interposed on my behalf. He told them that I was the
king’s stranger, and he could not see me ill-treated whilst I was under
his protection. He therefore advised them to let me alone for the night,
assuring them that in the morning I should be sent about my business.
This somewhat appeased their clamour, but they compelled me to ascend a
high seat by the door of the mosque, in order that everybody might see
me, for the people had assembled in such numbers as to be quite
ungovernable, climbing upon the houses, and squeezing each other, like
the spectators at an execution. Upon this seat I remained until sunset,
when I was conducted into a neat little hut, with a small court before
it, the door of which Counti Mamadi shut, to prevent any person from
disturbing me. But this precaution could not exclude the Moors. They
climbed over the top of the mud wall, and came in crowds into the court,
“in order,” they said, “to see me _perform my evening devotions_, _and
eat eggs_.” The former of these ceremonies I did not think proper to
comply with, but I told them I had no objection to eat eggs, provided
they would bring me eggs to eat. My landlord immediately brought me
seven hen’s eggs, and was much surprised to find that I could not eat
them raw; for it seems to be a prevalent opinion among the inhabitants of
the interior that Europeans subsist almost entirely on this diet. When I
had succeeded in persuading my landlord that this opinion was without
foundation, and that I would gladly partake of any victuals which he
might think proper to send me, he ordered a sheep to be killed, and part
of it to be dressed for my supper. About midnight, when the Moors had
left me, he paid me a visit, and with much earnestness desired me to
write him a saphie. “If a Moor’s saphie is good,” said this hospitable
old man, “a white man’s must needs be better.” I readily furnished him
with one, possessed of all the virtues I could concentrate, for it
contained the Lord’s Prayer. The pen with which it was written was made
of a reed; a little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a
thin board answered the purpose of paper.
_July_ 25.—Early in the morning, before the Moors were assembled, I
departed from Sansanding, and slept the ensuing night at a small town
called Sibili, from whence on the day following I reached Nyara, a large
town at some distance from the river, where I halted the 27th, to have my
clothes washed, and recruit my horse. The dooty there has a very
commodious house, flat-roofed, and two storeys high. He showed me some
gunpowder of his own manufacturing; and pointed out, as a great
curiosity, a little brown monkey that was tied to a stake by the door,
telling me that it came from a far distant country called Kong.
_July_ 28.—I departed from Nyara, and reached Nyamee about noon. This
town is inhabited chiefly by Foulahs from the kingdom of Masina. The
dooty, I know not why, would not receive me, but civilly sent his son on
horseback to conduct me to Modiboo, which he assured me was at no great
distance.
We rode nearly in a direct line through the woods, but in general went
forwards with great circumspection. I observed that my guide frequently
stopped and looked under the bushes. On inquiring the reason of this
caution he told me that lions were very numerous in that part of the
country, and frequently attacked people travelling through the woods.
While he was speaking, my horse started, and looking round, I observed a
large animal of the camelopard kind standing at a little distance. The
neck and fore-legs were very long; the head was furnished with two short
black horns, turning backwards; the tail, which reached down to the ham
joint, had a tuft of hair at the end. The animal was of a mouse colour,
and it trotted away from us in a very sluggish manner—moving its head
from side to side, to see if we were pursuing it. Shortly after this, as
we were crossing a large open plain, where there were a few scattered
bushes, my guide, who was a little way before me, wheeled his horse round
in a moment, calling out something in the Foulah language which I did not
understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant; “_Wara billi billi_!”
(“A very large lion!”) said he, and made signs for me to ride away. But
my horse was too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush from
which the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing anything myself,
however, I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly
put his hand to his mouth, exclaiming, “_Soubah an allahi_!” (“God
preserve us!”) and, to my great surprise, I then perceived a large red
lion, at a short distance from the bush, with his head couched between
his forepaws. I expected he would instantly spring upon me, and
instinctively pulled my feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the
ground, that my horse might become the victim rather than myself. But it
is probable the lion was not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass,
though we were fairly within his reach. My eyes were so riveted upon
this sovereign of the beasts that I found it impossible to remove them
until we were at a considerable distance. We now took a circuitous route
through some swampy ground, to avoid any more of these disagreeable
encounters. At sunset we arrived at Modiboo—a delightful village on the
banks of the Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles both to
the east and west. The small green islands (the peaceful retreat of some
industrious Foulahs, whose cattle are here secure from the depredations
of wild beasts) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here much
larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most enchanting in
the world. Here are caught great plenty of fish, by means of long cotton
nets, which the natives make themselves, and use nearly in the same
manner as nets are used in Europe. I observed the head of a crocodile
lying upon one of the houses, which they told me had been killed by the
shepherds in a swamp near the town. These animals are not uncommon in
the Niger, but I believe they are not oftentimes found dangerous. They
are of little account to the traveller when compared with the amazing
swarms of mosquitoes, which rise from the swamps and creeks in such
numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the natives; and as my
clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared to resist
their attacks. I usually passed the night without shutting my eyes,
walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself with my hat; their stings
raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms, which, together with the
want of rest, made me very feverish and uneasy.
_July_ 29.—Early in the morning, my landlord, observing that I was
sickly, hurried me away, sending a servant with me as a guide to Kea.
But though I was little able to walk, my horse was still less able to
carry me; and about six miles to the east of Modiboo, in crossing some
rough clayey ground, he fell, and the united strength of the guide and
myself could not place him again upon his legs. I sat down for some time
beside this worn-out associate of my adventures, but finding him still
unable to rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity
of grass before him. I surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on
the ground, with sympathetic emotion, for I could not suppress the sad
apprehension that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish
in the same manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding I left
my poor horse, and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot along
the bank of the river until about noon, when we reached Kea, which I
found to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The dooty, a
surly old man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very coolly; and
when I informed him of my situation, and begged his protection, told me
with great indifference that he paid very little attention to fine
speeches, and that I should not enter his house. My guide remonstrated
in my favour, but to no purpose, for the dooty remained inflexible in his
determination. I knew not where to rest my wearied limbs, but was
happily relieved by a fishing canoe belonging to Silla, which was at that
moment coming down the river. The dooty waved to the fisherman to come
near, and desired him to take charge of me as far as Moorzan. The
fisherman, after some hesitation, consented to carry me, and I embarked
in the canoe in company with the fisherman, his wife, and a boy. The
negro who had conducted me from Modiboo now left me. I requested him to
look to my horse on his return, and take care of him if he was still
alive, which he promised to do.
Departing from Kea, we proceeded about a mile down the river, when the
fisherman paddled the canoe to the bank and desired me to jump out.
Having tied the canoe to a stake, he stripped off his clothes, and dived
for such a length of time that I thought he had actually drowned himself,
and was surprised to see his wife behave with so much indifference upon
the occasion; but my fears were over when he raised up his head astern of
the canoe and called for a rope. With this rope he dived a second time,
and then got into the canoe and ordered the boy to assist him in pulling.
At length they brought up a large basket, about ten feet in diameter,
containing two fine fish, which the fisherman—after returning the basket
into the water—immediately carried ashore and hid in the grass. We then
went a little farther down and took up another basket, in which was one
fish. The fisherman now left us to carry his prizes to some neighbouring
market, and the woman and boy proceeded with me in the canoe down the
river.
About four o’clock we arrived at Moorzan, a fishing town on the northern
bank, from whence I was conveyed across the river to Silla, a large town,
where I remained until it was quite dark, under a tree, surrounded by
hundreds of people.
With a great deal of entreaty the dooty allowed me to come into his
baloon to avoid the rain, but the place was very damp, and I had a smart
paroxysm of fever during the night. Worn down by sickness, exhausted
with hunger and fatigue, half-naked, and without any article of value by
which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging, I began to reflect
seriously on my situation. I was now convinced, by painful experience,
that the obstacles to my farther progress were insurmountable. The
tropical rains were already set in with all their violence—the rice
grounds and swamps were everywhere overflowed—and in a few days more,
travelling of every kind, unless by water, would be completely
obstructed. The kowries which remained of the king of Bambarra’s present
were not sufficient to enable me to hire a canoe for any great distance,
and I had but little hopes of subsisting by charity in a country where
the Moors have such influence. But, above all, I perceived that I was
advancing more and more within the power of those merciless fanatics,
and, from my reception both at Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive
that, in attempting to reach even Jenné (unless under the protection of
some man of consequence amongst them, which I had no means of obtaining),
I should sacrifice my life to no purpose, for my discoveries would perish
with me. The prospect either way was gloomy. In returning to the
Gambia, a journey on foot of many hundred miles presented itself to my
contemplation, through regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this
seemed to be the only alternative, for I saw inevitable destruction in
attempting to proceed to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind I
hope my readers will acknowledge that I did right in going no farther.
Having thus brought my mind, after much doubt and perplexity, to a
determination to return westward, I thought it incumbent on me, before I
left Silla, to collect from the Moorish and negro traders all the
information I could concerning the farther course of the Niger eastward,
and the situation and extent of the kingdoms in its vicinage; and the
following few notices I received from such various quarters as induce me
to think they are authentic:—
Two short days’ journey to the eastward of Silla is the town of Jenné,
which is situated on a small island in the river, and is said to contain
a greater number of inhabitants than Sego itself, or any other town in
Bambarra. At the distance of two days more, the river spreads into a
considerable lake, called Dibbie (or the Dark Lake), concerning the
extent of which all the information I could obtain was that in crossing
it from west to east the canoes lose sight of land one whole day. From
this lake the water issues in many different streams, which terminate in
two large branches, one whereof flows towards the north-east, and the
other to the east; but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day’s
journey to the southward of Timbuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place
of that city. The tract of land which the two streams encircle is called
Jinbala, and is inhabited by negroes; and the whole distance by land from
Jenné to Timbuctoo is twelve days’ journey.
From Kabra, at the distance of eleven days’ journey down the stream, the
river passes to the southward of Houssa, which is two days’ journey
distant from the river. Of the farther progress of this great river, and
its final exit, all the natives with whom I conversed seemed to be
entirely ignorant. Their commercial pursuits seldom induce them to
travel farther than the cities of Timbuctoo and Houssa, and as the sole
object of those journeys is the acquirement of wealth, they pay little
attention to the course of rivers or the geography of countries. It is,
however, highly probable that the Niger affords a safe and easy
communication between very remote nations. All my informants agreed that
many of the negro merchants who arrive at Timbuctoo and Houssa from the
eastward speak a different language from that of Bambarra, or any other
kingdom with which they are acquainted But even these merchants, it would
seem, are ignorant of the termination of the river, for such of them as
can speak Arabic describe the amazing length of its course in very
general terms, saying only that they believe it runs _to the world’s
end_.
The names of many kingdoms to the eastward of Houssa are familiar to the
inhabitants of Bambarra. I was shown quivers and arrows of very curious
workmanship, which I was informed came from the kingdom of Kassina.
On the northern bank of the Niger, at a short distance from Silla, is the
kingdom of Masina, which is inhabited by Foulahs. They employ themselves
there, as in other places, chiefly in pasturage, and pay an annual
tribute to the king of Bambarra for the lands which they occupy.
To the north-east of Masina is situated the kingdom of Timbuctoo, the
great object of European research—the capital of this kingdom being one
of the principal marts for that extensive commerce which the Moors carry
on with the negroes. The hopes of acquiring wealth in this pursuit, and
zeal for propagating their religion, have filled this extensive city with
Moors and Mohammedan converts. The king himself and all the chief
officers of state are Moors; and they are said to be more severe and
intolerant in their principles than any other of the Moorish tribes in
this part of Africa. I was informed by a venerable old negro, that when
he first visited Timbuctoo, he took up his lodging at a sort of public
inn, the landlord of which, when he conducted him into his hut, spread a
mat on the floor, and laid a rope upon it, saying, “If you are a
Mussulman, you are my friend—sit down; but if you are a kafir, you are my
slave, and with this rope I will lead you to market.” The present king
of Timbuctoo is named Abu Abrahima. He is reported to possess immense
riches. His wives and concubines are said to be clothed in silk, and the
chief officers of state live in considerable splendour. The whole
expense of his government is defrayed, as I was told, by a tax upon
merchandise, which is collected at the gates of the city.
The city of Houssa (the capital of a large kingdom of the same name,
situated to the eastward of Timbuctoo), is another great mart for Moorish
commerce. I conversed with many merchants who had visited that city, and
they all agreed that it is larger—and more populous than Timbuctoo. The
trade, police, and government are nearly the same in both; but in Houssa
the negroes are in greater proportion to the Moors, and have some share
in the government.
Concerning the small kingdom of Jinbala I was not able to collect much
information. The soil is said to be remarkably fertile, and the whole
country so full of creeks and swamps that the Moors have hitherto been
baffled in every attempt to subdue it. The inhabitants are negroes, and
some of them are said to live in considerable affluence, particularly
those near the capital, which is a resting-place for such merchants as
transport goods from Timbuctoo to the western parts of Africa.
To the southward of Jinbala is situated the negro kingdom of Gotto, which
is said to be of great extent. It was formerly divided into a number of
petty states, which were governed by their own chiefs; but their private
quarrels invited invasion from the neighbouring kingdoms. At length a
politic chief of the name of Moossee had address enough to make them
unite in hostilities against Bambarra; and on this occasion he was
unanimously chosen general—the different chiefs consenting for a time to
act under his command. Moossee immediately despatched a fleet of canoes,
loaded with provisions, from the banks of the lake Dibbie up the Niger
towards Jenné, and with the whole of his army pushed forwards into
Bambarra. He arrived on the bank of the Niger opposite to Jenné before
the townspeople had the smallest intimation of his approach. His fleet
of canoes joined him the same day, and having landed the provisions, he
embarked part of his army, and in the night took Jenné by storm. This
event so terrified the king of Bambarra that he sent messengers to sue
for peace; and in order to obtain it consented to deliver to Moossee a
certain number of slaves every year, and return everything that had been
taken from the inhabitants of Gotto. Moossee, thus triumphant, returned
to Gotto, where he was declared king, and the capital of the country is
called by his name.
On the west of Gotto is the kingdom of Baedoo, which was conquered by the
present king of Bambarra about seven years ago, and has continued
tributary to him ever since.
West of Baedoo is Maniana, the inhabitants of which, according to the
best information I was able to collect, are cruel and ferocious—carrying
their resentment towards their enemies so far as never to give quarter,
and even to indulge themselves with unnatural and disgusting banquets of
human flesh.