I am to-day just returned from Alba, a good deal fatigued; for you know

the Appian is somewhat tiresome. We dined at Pompey's; he indeed was

gone for a few days to his Tusculan, but, by the care of his Villicus,

we made an admirable meal. We had the dugs of a pregnant sow, a peacock,

a dish of thrushes, a noble scarus just fresh from the Tyrrhene, and

some conchylia of the Lake with garum sauce: For my part I never eat

better at Lucullus's table. We drank half-a-dozen cyathi a-piece of

ancient Alban to Pholoe's health; and after bathing, and playing an hour

at ball, we mounted our essedum again, and proceeded up the mount to the

temple. The priests there entertained us with an account of a wonderful

shower of bird's eggs that had fallen two days before, which had no

sooner touched the ground, but they were converted into gudgeons; as

also that, the night past, a dreadful voice had been heard out of the

Adytum, which spoke Greek during a full half-hour, but nobody understood

it. But quitting my Romanities, to your great joy and mine, let me tell

you in plain English, that we come from Albano. The present town lies

within the inclosure of Pompey's Villa in ruins. The Appian way runs

through it, by the side of which, a little farther, is a large old

tomb, with five pyramids upon it, which the learned suppose to be the

burying-place of the family, because they do not know whose it can be

else. But the vulgar assure you it is the sepulchre of the Curiatii, and

by that name (such is their power) it goes. One drives to Castle

Gandolfo, a house of the Pope's, situated on the top of one of the

Collinette, that forms a brim to the basin, commonly called the Alban

lake. It is seven miles round; and directly opposite to you, on the

other side, rises the Mons Albanus, much taller than the rest, along

whose side are still discoverable (not to common eyes) certain little

ruins of the old Alba Longa. They had need be very little, as having

been nothing but ruins ever since the days of Tullus Hostilius. On its

top is a house of the Constable Colonna's, where stood the temple of

Jupiter Latialis. At the foot of the hill Gandolfo, are the famous

outlets of the lake, built with hewn stone, a mile and a half under

ground. Livy you know, amply informs us of the foolish occasion of this

expence, and gives me this opportunity of displaying all my erudition,

that I may appear considerable in your eyes. This is the prospect from

one window of the palace. From another you have the whole Campagna, the

City, Antium, and the Tyrrhene sea (twelve miles distant) so

distinguishable, that you may see the vessels sailing upon it. All this

is charming. Mr. Walpole says, our memory sees more than our eyes in

this country. Which is extremely true; since, for realities, Windsor or

Richmond Hill is infinitely preferable to Albano or Frescati. I am now

at home, and going to the window to tell you it is the most beautiful of

Italian nights, which, in truth, are but just begun (so backward has the

spring been here, and every where else, they say) There is a moon! there

are stars for you! Do not you hear the fountain? Do not you smell the

orange flowers? That building yonder is the convent of S. Isidore; and

that eminence, with the cypress trees and pines upon it, the top of M.

Quirinal. This is all true, and yet my prospect is not two hundred yards

in length.

21. TO WHARTON

Dear Doctor

Whatever my pen may do, I am sure my thoughts expatiate nowhere oftener

or with more pleasure, than to Old-Park. I hope you have made my peace

with Miss Deborah. it is certain, whether her name were in my letter or

not, she was as present to my memory, as the rest of the little family,

& I desire you would present her with two kisses in my name, & one

a-piece to all the others: for I shall take the liberty to kiss them all

(great & small) as you are to be my proxy.

In spite of the rain, w^ch I think continued with very short intervals

till the beginning of this month, & quite effaced the summer from the

year, I made a shift to pass May & June not disagreeably in Kent. I was

surprised at the beauty of the road to Canterbury, which (I know not

why) had not struck me in the same manner before. The whole country is a

rich and well-cultivated garden, orchards, cherry-grounds, hop-gardens,

intermix'd with corn & frequent villages, gentle risings cover'd with

wood, and everywhere the Thames and Medway breaking in upon the

Landscape with all their navigation. It was indeed owing to the bad

weather, that the whole scene was dress'd in that tender emerald-green,

w^ch one usually sees only for a fortnight in the opening of spring, &

this continued till I left the country. My residence was eight miles

east of Canterbury in a little quiet valley on the skirts of

Barhamdown. In these parts the whole soil is chalk, and whenever it

holds up, in half an hour it is dry enough to walk out. I took the

opportunity of three or four days fine weather to go into the Isle of

Thanet, saw Margate (w^ch is Bartholomew-Fair by the sea side),

Ramsgate, & other places there, and so came by Sandwich, Deal, Dover,

Folkstone, & Hithe, back again. The coast is not like Hartlepool: there

are no rocks, but only chalky cliffs of no great height, till you come

to Dover. There indeed they are noble & picturesque, and the opposite

coasts of France begin to bound your view, w^ch was left before to range

unlimited by anything but the horizon: yet it is by no means a

_shipless_ sea, but everywhere peopled with white sails & vessels of all

sizes in motion. And take notice (except in the Isle, w^ch is all

corn-fields, and has very little inclosure) there are in all places

hedgerows & tall trees even within a few yards of the beach.

Particularly Hithe stands on an eminence cover'd with wood. I shall

confess we had fires of a night (ay, & a day too) several times even in

June: but don't go & take advantage of this, for it was the most

untoward year that ever I remember.

Your Friend Rousseau (I doubt) grows tired of M^r Davenport and

Derbyshire. He has picked a quarrel with David Hume & writes him letters

of 14 pages Folio upbraiding him of all his _noirceurs_. Take one only

as a specimen, he says, that at Calais they chanced to sleep in the same

room together, & that he overheard David talking in his sleep, and

saying, _Ah! Je le tiens, ce Jean-Jacques la._ In short (I fear) for

want of persecution & admiration (for these are real complaints) he will

go back to the Continent.

What shall I say to you about the Ministry? I am as angry as a

Common-council Man of London about my L^d Chatham: but a little more

patient, & will hold my tongue till the end of the year. In the mean

time I do mutter in secret & to you, that to quit the house of Commons,

his natural strength; to sap his own popularity & grandeur (which no one

but himself could have done) by assuming a foolish title; & to hope that

he could win by it and attach to him a Court, that hate him, & will

dismiss him, as soon as ever they dare, was the weakest thing, that ever

was done by so great a Man. Had it not been for this, I should have

rejoiced at the breach between him & L^d Temple, & at the union between

him & the D: of Grafton & M^r Conway: but patience! we shall see!

St:[108] perhaps is in the country (for he hoped for a month's leave of

absence) and if you see him, you will learn more than I can tell you.

Mason is at Aston. He is no longer so anxious about his wife's health,

as he was, tho' I find she still has a cough, & moreover I find she is

not with child: but he made such a bragging, how could one choose but

believe him.

When I was in town, I mark'd in my pocket-book the utmost limits &

divisions of the two columns in your Thermometer, and asked Mr. Ayscough

the Instrument-Maker on Ludgate Hill, what scales they were. He

immediately assured me, that one was Fahrenheit's, & shew'd me one

exactly so divided. The other he took for Reaumur's, but, as he said

there were different scales of his contrivance, he could not exactly

tell, w^ch of them it was. Your Brother told me, you wanted to know,

who wrote Duke Wharton's life in the Biography: I think, it is chiefly

borrowed from a silly book enough call'd _Memoirs of that Duke_: but who

put it together there, no one can inform me. The only person certainly

known to write in that vile collection (I mean these latter volumes) is

D^r Nicholls, who was expell'd here for stealing books.

Have you read the _New Bath-Guide_?[109] it is the only thing in

fashion, & is a new & original kind of humour. Miss Prue's Conversion I

doubt you will paste down, as S^r W: S^t Quintyn did, before he carried

it to his daughter. Yet I remember you all read _Crazy Tales_[110]

without pasting. Buffon's first collection of Monkeys are come out (it

makes the 14^th volume) something, but not much, to my edification: for

he is pretty well acquainted with their persons, but not with their

manners.

I shall be glad to hear, how far M^rs Ettrick has succeeded, & when you

see an end to her troubles. my best respects to Mrs. Wharton, &

compliments to all your family: I will not name them, least I should

affront any body. Adieu, dear S^r,

I am most sincerely yours,

TG:

August 26, 1766, Pembroke College.

Mr. Brown is gone to see his Brother near Margate. When is L^d Str:[111]

to be married? If M^r and M^rs Jonathan are with you, I desire my

compliments.

FOOTNOTES:

[108] "St." is Richard Stonhewer, a Fellow of Peterhouse, secretary to

the Duke of Grafton, and a man of considerable, though not public,

importance in politics.

[109] Anstey's--referred to in the Introduction.

[110] By Sterne's friend, John Hall Stevenson.

[111] Lord Strathmore.

HORACE WALPOLE (1717-1797)

[AND W. M. THACKERAY].

As much has been already said of Horace Walpole's letters,

but practically nothing of his other works except his novel

and his play, something more may be added here to show that

he was not _merely_ a "trifler." His private press at

"Strawberry" was mainly a means of amusement to him, like a

billiard-room or a tennis-court. But it provided some useful

books--such as editions of Anthony Hamilton's _Memoirs of

Grammont_, of Lord Herbert of Cherbury's _Life_ and of part

of Gray's _Poems_. He had neither historic knowledge nor

historic sense enough to deal satisfactorily with such a

subject as _Historic Doubts on Richard III._, though the

subject itself was quite worth dealing with. But his

_Catalogue of Royal and Noble Authors_, his _Anecdotes of

Painting in England_, and his _Catalogue of Engravers_ are

not without value; and he could usefully handle the history

of his own time, with proper corrections for his prejudices,

etc. He was weakest of all as a literary critic: and his

dealings with Chatterton were most unfortunate, though the

mischief done was not intentional, and might not have been

serious in any other case. These things have been said with

a definite purpose--that of showing that Horace's interests,

if seldom deep, were unusually wide. Now though width of

interest is not, as Cowper's case shows, indispensable to

goodness of letter-writing, it is a very great qualification

for it, as giving to the result variety, colour, and "bite."

At the same time, unless one had space on a very different

scale from any possible here, it would be _im_possible to

illustrate this "extensive curiosity" as they called it

then: and Horace ought to be shown here in his _most_ native

element as a chronicler of "society." I have thought it

worth while to subjoin for comparison Thackeray's wonderful

_pastiche_ in _The Virginians_, which is almost better

Horace than Horace himself.[112]

22. TO THE COUNTESS OF OSSORY

ARLINGTON STREET,

April 31. 1773

It is most true, madam, that I did purpose to regale myself with a visit

to Ampthill; but this winter, which has trod hard upon last week's

summer, blunted my intention for a while, though revivable in finer

weather. Oh! but I had another reason for changing my mind; you are

leaving Ampthill, and I do not mean only to write my name in your

park-keeper's book. Yes, in spite of your ladyship's low spirited mood,

you are coming from Ampthill, and you are to be at Strawberry Hill

to-morrow se'nnight. You may not be in the secret, but Lord Ossory and I

have settled it, and you are to be pawned to me while he is at

Newmarket. He told me you certainly would if I asked it, and as they

used to say in ancient writ, I do beg it upon the knees of my heart.

Nay, it is unavoidable; for though a lady's word may be ever so

crackable, you cannot have the conscience to break your husband's word,

so I depend upon it. I have asked Mr. Craufurd to meet you, but begged

he would refuse me, that I might be sure of his coming. Mrs Meynel has

taken another year's lease of her house, so you probably, madam, will

not be tired of me for the livelong day for the whole time you shall

honour my mansion. Your face will be well and your fever gone a week

before to-morrow se'nnight, and you will look as well as ever you did in

your life, that is, as you have done lately, which is better than ever

you did before. You must not, in truth, expect that I your shepherd

should be quite so fit to figure in a fan mount. Besides the gout for

six months, which makes some flaws in the bloom of elderly Arcadians, I

have been so far from keeping sheep for the last ten days, that I have

kept nothing but bad hours; and have been such a rake that I put myself

in mind of a poor old cripple that I saw formerly at Hogarth's auction:

he bid for the Rake's Progress, saying, "I will buy my own progress,"

though he looked as if he had no more title to it than I have, but by

limping and sitting up. In short, I have been at four balls since

yesterday se'nnight, though I had the prudence not to stay supper at

Lord Stanley's. That festival was very expensive, for it is the fashion

now to make romances rather than balls. In the hall was a band of French

horns and clarionets in laced uniforms and feathers. The dome of the

staircase was beautifully illuminated with coloured glass lanthorns; in

the ante-room was a bevy of vestals in white habits, making tea; in the

next, a drapery of sarcenet, that with a very funereal air crossed the

chimney, and depended in vast festoons over the sconces. The third

chamber's doors were heightened with candles in gilt vases, and the

ballroom was formed into an oval with benches above each other, not

unlike pews, and covered with red serge, above which were arbours of

flowers, red and green pilasters, more sarcenet, and Lord March's

glasses, which he had lent, as an upholsterer asked Lord Stanley 300l.

for the loan of some. He had burst open the side of the wall to build an

orchestra, with a pendant mirror to reflect the dancers, a la Guisnes;

and the musicians were in scarlet robes, like the candle-snuffers who

represent the senates of Venice at Drury Lane. There were two more

chambers at which I never arrived for the crowd. The seasons, danced by

himself, the younger Storer, the Duc de Lauzun and another, the youngest

Miss Stanley, Miss Poole, the youngest Wrottesley and another Miss, who

is likewise anonymous in my memory, were in errant shepherdly dresses

without invention, and Storer and Miss Wrottesley in banians with furs,

for winter, cock and hen. In six rooms below were magnificent suppers. I

was not quite so sober last night at Mons. de Guisnes', where the

evening began with a ball of children, from eighteen to four years old.

They danced amazingly well, yet disappointed me, so many of them were

ugly; but Dr. Delawarr's two eldest daughters and the Ancaster infanta

performed a pas de trois as well as Mlle. Heinel, and the two eldest

were pretty; yet I promise you, madam, the next age will be a thousand

degrees below the present in beauty. The most interesting part was to

observe the anxiety of the mothers while their children danced or

supped; they supped at ten in three rooms. I should not omit telling you

that the Vernons, especially the eldest, were not the homeliest part of

the show. The former quadrilles then came again upon the stage, and

Harry Conway the younger was so astonished at the agility of Mrs.

Hobart's bulk, that he said he was sure she must be hollow. The tables

were again spread in five rooms, and at past two in the morning we went

to supper. To excuse _we_, I must plead that both the late and present

chancellor, and the solemn Lord Lyttleton, my predecessors by some

years, stayed as late as I did--and in good sooth the watchman went four

as my chairman knocked at my door.

Such is the result of good resolutions! I determined during my illness

to have my colt's tooth drawn, and lo! I have cut four new in a week.

Well! at least I am as grave as a judge, looked as rosy as Lord

Lyttleton, and much soberer than my Lord Chancellor. To shew some marks

of grace, I shall give up the opera, (indeed it is very bad) and go and

retake my doctor's degrees among the dowagers at Lady Blandford's; and

intending to have no more diversions than I have news to tell your

ladyship, I think you shall not hear from me again till we meet, as I

shall think it, in heaven.

23. (_Thackeray imitating_). TO THE HON. H. S. CONWAY

ARLINGTON STREET, Friday night.

I have come away, child, for a day or two from my devotions to our Lady

of Strawberry. Have I not been on my knees to her these three weeks, and

aren't the poor old joints full of rheumatism? A fit took me that I

would pay London a visit, that I would go to Vauxhall and Ranelagh.

_Quoi!_ May I not have my rattle as well as other elderly babies?

Suppose, after being so long virtuous, I take a fancy to cakes and ale,

shall your reverence say nay to me? George Selwyn and Tony Storer and

your humble servant took boat at Westminster t'other night. Was it

Tuesday?--no, Tuesday I was with their Graces of Norfolk, who are just

from Tunbridge--it was Wednesday. How should I know?

Wasn't I dead drunk with a whole pint of lemonade I took at White's?

The Norfolk folk had been entertaining me on Tuesday with the account of

a young savage Iroquois, Choctaw, or Virginian, who has lately been

making a little noise in our quarter of the globe. He is an offshoot of

that disreputable family of Esmond-Castlewood, of whom all the men are

gamblers and spendthrifts, and all the women--well, I shan't say the

word, lest Lady Ailesbury should be looking over your shoulder. Both the

late lords, my father told me, were in his pay, and the last one, a beau

of Queen Anne's reign, from a viscount advanced to be an earl through

the merits and intercession of his notorious old sister Bernstein, late

Tusher, _nee_ Esmond--a great beauty, too, of her day, a favourite of

the old Pretender. She sold his secrets to my papa, who paid her for

them; and being nowise particular in her love for the Stuarts, came over

to the august Hanoverian house at present reigning over us. "Will Horace

Walpole's tongue never stop scandal?" says your wife over your shoulder.

I kiss your ladyship's hand. I am dumb. The Bernstein is a model of

virtue. She had no good reasons for marrying her father's chaplain. Many

of the nobility omit the marriage altogether. She _wasn't_ ashamed of

being Mrs. Tusher, and didn't take a German _Baroncino_ for a second

husband, whom nobody out of Hanover ever saw. The Yarmouth bears no

malice. Esther and Vashti are very good friends, and have been cheating

each other at Tunbridge at cards all the summer.

"And what has all this to do with the Iroquois?" says your ladyship. The

Iroquois has been at Tunbridge, too--not cheating, perhaps, but winning

vastly. They say he has bled Lord March of thousands--Lord March, by

whom so much blood hath been shed, that he has quarrelled with

everybody, fought with everybody, rode over everybody, been fallen in

love with by everybody's wife except Mr. Conway's, and _not_ excepting

her present Majesty, the Countess of England, Scotland, France and

Ireland, Queen of Walmoden and Yarmouth, whom heaven preserve to us.

You know an offensive little creature _de par le monde_, one Jack

Morris, who skips in and out of all the houses of London. When we were

at Vauxhall, Mr. Jack gave us a nod under the shoulder of a pretty young

fellow enough, on whose arm he was leaning, and who appeared hugely

delighted with the enchantments of the garden. Lord, how he stared at

the fireworks! Gods, how he huzzayed at the singing of a horrible

painted wench who shrieked the ears off my head! A twopenny string of

glass beads and a strip of tawdry cloth are treasures in Iroquois-land,

and our savage valued them accordingly.

A buzz went about the place that this was the fortunate youth. He won

three hundred at White's last night very genteelly from Rockingham and

my precious nephew, and here he was bellowing and huzzaying over the

music so as to do you good to hear. I do not love a puppet-show, but I

love to treat children to one, Miss Conway! I present your ladyship my

compliments, and hope we shall go and see the dolls together.

When the singing-woman came down from her throne, Jack Morris must

introduce my Virginian to her. I saw him blush up to the eyes, and make

her, upon my word, a very fine bow, such as I had no idea was practised

in wigwams. "There is a certain _jenny squaw_ about her, and that's why

the savage likes her," George said--a joke certainly not as brilliant as

a firework. After which it seemed to me that the savage and the savagess

retired together.

Having had a great deal too much to eat and drink three hours before, my

partners must have chicken and rack-punch at Vauxhall, where George fell

asleep straightway, and for my sins I must tell Tony Storer what I knew

about this Virginian's amiable family, especially some of the

Bernstein's antecedents and the history of another elderly beauty of the

family, a certain Lady Maria, who was _au mieux_ with the late Prince of

Wales. What did I say? I protest not half of what I knew, and of course

not a tenth part of what I was going to tell, for who should start out

upon us but my savage, this time quite red in the face; and in his _war

paint_. The wretch had been drinking fire-water in the next box!

He cocked his hat, clapped his hand to his sword, asked which of the

gentlemen was it that was maligning his family? so that I was obliged to

entreat him not to make such a noise, lest he should wake my friend Mr.

George Selwyn. And I added, "I assure you, sir, I had no idea that you

were near me, and I most sincerely apologize for giving you pain."

The Huron took his hand off his tomahawk at this pacific rejoinder, made

a bow not ungraciously, said he could not, of course, ask more than an

apology from a gentleman of my age (_Merci, Monsieur!_) and, hearing the

name of Mr. Selwyn, made another bow to George, and said he had a letter

to him from Lord March, which he had had the ill-fortune to mislay.

George has put him up for the club, it appears, in conjunction with

March, and no doubt these three lambs will fleece each other. Meanwhile,

my pacified savage sat down with us, and _buried the hatchet_ in another

bowl of punch, for which these gentlemen must call. Heaven help us! 'Tis

eleven o'clock, and here comes Bedson with my gruel!

H. W.

FOOTNOTES:

[112] There is an amicable dispute among Thackerayans whether this or

the imitation-_Spectator_ paper in _Esmond_ is the more wonderful of

their joint kind. To facilitate this comparison the letter part (for

there is one) of that paper will be given here under Thackeray's own

name.

TOBIAS GEORGE SMOLLETT (1721-1771)

Smollett's reputation has been of course always mainly,

indeed almost wholly, that of a novelist, though his

miscellaneous work is of no small merit. But that he wrote

his best novel _in_ letters and that perhaps it is one of

the best so written, has been mentioned. His _Travels_ are

also of the letter-kind--especially of the

ill-tempered-letter-kind. Of his actual correspondence we

have not much. But the following has always seemed to the

present writer an admirable and agreeably characteristic

example. Smollett's outwardly surly but inwardly kindly

temper, and his command of phrase ("great Cham of

literature" has, as we say now, "stuck") both appear in it:

and the matter is interesting. We have, so far as I

remember, no record of any interview between Johnson and

Smollett, though they must have met. They were both Tories,

and Johnson wrote in the _Critical Review_ which Smollett

edited. But Johnson's gibes at Scotland are not likely to

have conciliated Smollett: and there was just that

combination of likeness and difference between the two men

which (especially as the one was as typically English as the

other was Scotch) generates incompatibility. How

victoriously Wilkes got over Johnson's personal dislike to

him all readers of Boswell know: and it is one of the most

amusing passages in the book. On this occasion, too, he did

what was asked of him. "Frank" had not been _pressed_, but

had joined for some reason of his own. However, he accepted

his discharge and returned to his master, staying till that

master's death.

24. TO JOHN WILKES, ESQ.

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