January 13, 1622/1623, and later.
By whom this New Plymouth (situated, according to Captain Jones[2] his
computation, in 41 degrees and 48 minutes) is now presently inhabited,
your Lordship and the honorable Company do know better than myself. For
whom how favourably God’s providence in thought and in deed, quite
besides any plot or design of theirs, hath wrought, especially in the
beginning of their enterprise, is worthy to be observed. For when, as
your Lordship knows, their voyage was intended for Virginia, being by
letters from Sir Edwin Sandys and Mr. Deputy Ferrar recommended to Sir
Yeardley[3] (then Governor) that he should give them the best advice he
could for trading in Hudson’s River, whether it were by contrariety of
wind or by the backwardness of their master or pilot[4] to make (as they
thought it) too long a journey, they fell short both of the one and the
other, arriving first at that stately harbour called Cape Cod,[5] called
by Indians “Pamet”; from whence in shallop the pilot, a more forward
undertaker than performer, promised to bring them to be seated in a
pleasant and fertile place called Anquam,[6] situate within Cape Ann,[7]
about forty leagues from Plymouth. After some dangerous and almost
incurable errors and mistakings, he stumbled by accident upon the
harbour of Plymouth; where, after the planters had failed of their
intention, and the pilot of his, it pleased Almighty God (who had better
provided for them than their own hearts could imagine) to plant them on
the seat of an old town which divers [years] before had been abandoned
of the Indians. So they both quietly and justly sate down without either
dispossessing any of the natives, or being resisted by them, and without
shedding so much as one drop of blood. Which felicity of theirs is
confirmed unto them even by the voices of the savages themselves, who
generally do acknowledge not only the seat, but the whole seigniory[8]
thereto belonging, to be, and do themselves disclaim all title from it;
so that the right of those planters to it is altogether unquestionable—a
favor which, since the first discovery of America, God hath not
vouchsafed, so far as ever I could learn, upon any Christian nation
within that continent. Yet can it not be denied but that these of the
Summer Islands[9] are blessed with the same privilege according to the
saying of St. Paul, “If the firstfruits be holy, the lump is also
holy.”[10]
But to leave this privilege to them whom it concerns, and to describe to
your Lordship the excellency of the place. First, the harbour is not
only pleasant for air and prospect, but most sure for shipping, both
small and great, being land-locked on all sides. The town is seated on
the ascent of a hill, which besides the pleasure of variable objects
entertaining the unsatisfied eye, such is the wholesomeness of the place
(as the Governor[11] told me) that for the space of one whole year of
the two wherein they had been there, died not one man, woman or child.
This healthfulness is accompanied with much plenty both of fish and fowl
every day in the year, as I know no place in the world that can match
it. In March the eels come forth out of places where they lie bedded all
winter, into the fresh streams, and there into the sea, and in their
passages are taken in pots. In September they run out of the sea into
the fresh streams, to bed themselves in the ground all winter, and are
taken again in pots as they return homewards. In winter the inhabitants
dig them up, being bedded in gravel not above two or three foot deep,
and all the rest of the year they may take them in pots in the salt
water of the bay. They are passing sweet, fat and wholesome, having no
taste at all of the mud, and are as great as ever I saw any.
In April and May come up another kind of fish which they call herring or
old wives[12] in infinite schools, into a small river[13] running under
the town, and so into a great pond or lake of a mile broad, where they
cast their spawn, the water of the said river being in many places not
above half a foot deep. Yea, when a heap of stones is reared up against
them a foot high above the water, they leap and tumble over, and will
not be beaten back with cudgels. Which confirmeth not only that of
Horace, “_Naturam expellas furca licet_,” etc.,[14] but that also which
was thought a fable of Friar Beatus Odoricus, namely, that in some parts
where he had travelled, the fish in the springtime did cast themselves
out of the sea upon the dry land.[15] The inhabitants during the said
two months take them up every day in hogsheads. And with those they eat
not they manure the ground, burying two or three in each hill of
corn—and may, when they are able, if they see cause, lade whole ships
with them. At their going up they are very fat and savory, but at their
coming down, after they have cast their spawns, they are shot, and
therefore lean and unwholesome. Into another river some two miles to the
northeast of Plymouth,[16] all the month of May the great smelts pass up
to spawn, likewise in troops innumerable, which with a scoop or a bowl,
or a piece of bark, a man may cast up upon the bank.
About mid-May come into the harbour the main school of bass and
bluefish, which they take with seines[17]—some fishes of a foot and a
half, some of two foot, and some of three foot long—and with hooks,
those of four and five foot long. They enter also at flowing water[18]
up into the small creeks, at the mouths whereof the inhabitants,
spreading their nets, have caught 500 and 700 at a time. These continue
good May, June, July and August. Now as concerning the bluefish, in
delicacy it excelleth all kind of fish that ever I tasted; I except not
the salmon of the Thames in his prime season, nor any other fish. We
called it by a compound name of black, white, blue, sweet, fat—the skin
and scale, blue; the flesh next under the scale for an inch deep, black
and as sweet as the marrow of an ox; the residue of the flesh
underneath, purely white, fat, and of a taste requiring no addition of
sauce. By which alluring qualities it may seem dangerously tending to a
surfeit, but we found by experience that having satisfied (and in a
manner glutted) ourselves therewith, it proved wholesome unto us and
most easy of digestion.
In the same bay, lobsters are in season during the four months—so large,
so full of meat, and so plentiful in number as no man will believe that
hath not seen. For a knife of three halfpence, I bought ten lobsters
that would well have dined forty labouring men. And the least boy in the
ship, with an hour’s labour, was able to feed the whole company with
them for two days; which, if those of the ship that come home do not
affirm upon their oaths, let me forever lose my credit!
Without the bay, in the ocean sea, they have all the year long in a
manner goodly fishing of cod and hake, as in other parts of Canada.
Within two miles southward from their plantation do begin goodly ponds
and lakes of fresh water, continuing well nigh twenty miles into the
land, some with islands in them, the water being as clear as crystal,
yielding great variety of fish.
Mussels and clams[19] they have all the year long; which, being the
meanest of God’s blessings here, and such as these people fat their hogs
with at a low water, if ours upon any extremity did enjoy in the South
Colony,[20] they would never complain of famine or want, although they
wanted bread. (Not but that, by God’s blessing, the South Colony using
their industry may in few years attain to that plenty, pleasure and
strength as that they shall not need much to envy or fear the proudest
nations in Europe.) Oysters there are none, but at Massachusetts, some
20 miles to the north of this place, there are such huge ones, by
savages’ report, as I am loth to report. For ordinary ones, of which
there be many, they make to be as broad as a bushel, but one among the
rest they compared to the great cabin of the _Discovery_, and being
sober and well-advised persons, grew very angry when they were laughed
at or not believed! I would have had Captain Jones to have tried out the
truth of this report. And what was the reason? If, said I, the oysters
be so great and have any pearls in them, then must the pearls be
answerable in greatness to the oysters, and proving round and orient
also, would far exceed all other jewels in the world! Yea, what strange
and precious things might be found in so rare a creature! But Captain
Jones his employing his pinnace in discovery, his graving of the ship,
his haste away about other occasions and business, would not permit him
to do that which often since he wished he could have done.
From the beginning of September till the end of March, their bay in a
manner is covered with all sorts of water fowl, in such sort of swarms
and multitudes as is rather admirable than credible. The reasons of
their continual plenty for those seven months in the year may be their
continual tranquility of the place, being guarded on all sides from the
fury of the storms; as also the abundance of food they find at low
water, the bottom of the bay then appearing as a green meadow; and
lastly, the number of freshets running into the bay, where after their
powdered salads, their brackish shellfish and other cates,[21] they may
refresh and quench their thirst. And therefore, this bay is such a pond
for fowl as in any man’s knowledge of our nation that hath seen it, all
America hath not the like.
(Thus far I proceeded and dated my letter at Angra,[22] Jan. 13,
1622[/1623].)
Touching their fruit, I will not speak of their meaner sort, as of
rasps,[23] cherries, gooseberries, strawberries, delicate plums and
others. But they have commonly through the country five several sorts of
grapes, some whereof I tasted, being fairer and larger than any I ever
saw in the South Colony, but of a muscatel taste,[24] which being
transplanted, would prosper better in the south. But wine vines may
compare with Martha’s Vineyard, which I dare say will fall to the south
of 40 degrees,[25] and will be an earthly paradise to him that can be
master of it. Sassafras wanteth not all over this main. In this land, as
in other parts of this main, they have plenty of deer and of turkeys as
large and as fat as in any other place.
So much of the wholesomeness and plenty of the country. Now as
concerning the quality of the people, how happy were it for our people
in the Southern Colony, if they were as free from wickedness and vice as
these are in this place! And their industry as well appeareth by their
building, as by a substantial palisado about their [town] of 2700 foot
in compass, stronger than I have seen any in Virginia, and lastly by a
blockhouse which they have erected in the highest place of the town to
mount their ordnance upon, from whence they may command all the harbour.
As touching their correspondence with the Indians, they are friends with
all their neighbours—as namely with those of Cohasset[26] and
Massachusetts to the north, with the great king of Pocanocket[27] to the
southwest, with those of Pamet, Nauset, Capawack[28] and others to the
east and south. And notwithstanding that those of the isle Capawack are
mortal enemies to all other English, ever since Hunt most wickedly stole
away their people to sell them for slaves,[29] yet are they in good
terms with them of Plymouth, because as they never did wrong to any
Indians, so will they put up no injury at their hands. And though they
gave them kind entertainment, yet stand they day and night precisely
upon their guard. True it is that Narragansett,[30] situate to the west
of Pocanocket, being set on either by the French or Flemings,[31] sent
them a snake’s skin full of arrows in token of hostility and defiance.
In answer whereof, having filled the same with shot and powder, they
sent it back again with this message: that whensoever[32] he should be
welcome, and should find them ready to entertain him. The shot and
powder he liked not, nor would meddle with it, but caused it to be cast
into the river.
One thing which made them to be much respected was the revenge which
they attempted in the night upon Corbitant,[33] the chief man about the
great king, because they were (though falsely) informed that he had
slain Tisquanto, Sir Ferdinando Gorges his Indian,[34] who lived as
their servant under their protection, interpreting the injury done to
him as done to themselves. Besides, when Tisquanto was earnestly
required to be sent home by the great king, they choose rather to hazard
a falling out with him than to break their faith and promise with
Tisquanto, who had been sure to have gone to the pot if they had
delivered him up. Which faith and courage of theirs hath made other
distracted Indians to retire themselves into their protection, of whose
labour and service they have made good use, but especially of
Tisquanto’s.
And since I have taken occasion to speak both of amity and enmity, give
me leave to note unto your Lordship the general enemy of all, both
Christians and Indians in Canada, that inhabit toward the ocean, being
(as they of New Plymouth relate) an Indian nation of man-eaters called
Mohawks,[35] who go armed against arrows with jacks[36] made of cordage,
and they themselves use clubs only.
Of the language of the natives about Plymouth and Cape Cod I have
collected a small dictionary, wherein I find many words agreeing with
those of the South Colony and of the eastern shore of the bay.[37] I
have one great design; namely, to find out what sea that is, which the
Frenchmen put down in their cards[38] to west in 40 degrees over against
the bottom of the said bay, whether or no an inlet of the South Sea.[39]
It must be done, by the grace of God, through the guidance of the
Susquehannas,[40] a most barbarous nation and supposed to be man-eaters.
Yet upon this condition I will adventure myself with them by land: if I
may have a convenient bark [in which] to keep for my security three or
four hostages.
John Pory to the Governor of Virginia
(Sir Francis Wyatt)
Autumn, 1622.
Whereas heretofore a vulgar error, namely that fish is not to be had
here[41] at all times of the year, had generally possessed the minds of
all men, experience hath now taught us the contrary: that in some two
months of the cod, which never bites but in the daytime, comes
altogether as good a fish called a hake, to be caught in the night. The
places of fishing upon this coast are as universal as the times, for it
is experimented now by one John Gibbs,[42] who this summer hath passed
five or six times between this place and New Plymouth, that a man cannot
cast out a hook at any ledge at sea in that distance, but he shall draw
up goodly fish at pleasure—upon whose relation divers mean to fish the
next year more toward the southwest. And Cape Cod itself hath not that
name for naught: for it is thought that one shallop’s fishing only would
suffice the whole plantation of New Plymouth all the year long. To the
east and north of this place is found as great plenty as to the south
and west. Now whether there be any cod or no to the south of the place
(as the Company[43] desire to be informed), although Mr. Vengham,[44] a
man of experience in those parts, do seem to doubt. Yet a Flemish[45]
pilot, who is to conduct Captain Argall his pinnace into Hudson’s
River,[46] putteth down in his plot a place some fifteen leagues to the
west of Elizabeth’s Island, which he calleth Cod Island.[47]
And by the way, that you may know how strongly the Flemings make title
from 40 to 44 degrees, they call Hudson his river, “Prince Maurice his
river”; Cape Cod, the “States Hooke”; Sagadahoc or thereabouts, “Prince
Henricks river”; and the great bay wherein Port Royal (taken by Captain
Argall from the French) was seated, “Grave Williams Bay.”[48] And in the
same place they confine Virginia within the Cape Henry and Charles, as
if it had no further extension both north and south. Also, to the south
of Hudson’s River, they name the country “_Aquahanacke_.”[49]
Besides that plantation of New Plymouth in 41 degrees and one half, and
that other in Massachusetts[50] in 42 or thereabouts, there is a third
in Canada at Damerill’s Cove[51] in 43 and 45 minutes, at the cost of
Sir Ferdinando Gorges, consisting of some thirteen persons, who are to
provide fish all the year with a couple of shallops for the most timely
loading of a ship, and to keep that island to be farmed out in Sir
Ferninando’s name to such as shall there fish. And lest the French or
the savages should root them out in winter, they have fortified
themselves with a strong palisado of spruce trees of some ten foot high,
having besides their small shot one piece of ordnance and some ten good
dogs.
Howsoever they speed, they undertake an hazardous attempt, considering
the savages have been this year, as those to the north use to be by the
French, furnished (in exchange of skins) by some unworthy people of our
nation with pieces, shot, powder, swords, blades and most deadly arrow
heads; and with shallops from the French, which they can manage as well
as any Christian, as also their pieces, it being an ordinary thing with
them to hit a bird flying. And how little they are to be trusted here as
well as in Virginia, may appear by the killing lately of the master of a
ship of Plymouth[52] with eighteen of his company among the islands
toward the northeast, which was the cause that the same ship lost her
fishing voyage and went empty home.
Now, as concerning the soil, it is all along, as far as I could
perceive, rocky, rough and uneven; and, that as I hear, from a little on
this side [of] Cape Cod as far as to Newfoundland, being all along the
sea coast a labyrinth of innumerable islands or broken lands rent in
sunder by intricate channels, rivers and arms of the sea. Upon these
rocky grounds do grow naturally fir, spruce, birch and other trees, and
in some open places abundance of rasps, gooseberries, hurts[53] and such
fruit; in other places, high[54] rank grass for the grazing of cattle,
to make hay withal; as likewise, great plenty of pease like our English
pease, growing naturally without any tilth. Upon these rocky places,
there is passing good soil, yet culturable with hoe and spade rather
than with the plow. Yet they say that up the river Prinaquie[55] there
is a place of even champian[56] country without any rocks, abounding
with variety of excellent timber, and like at Anquam[57] nearer unto
Cape Ann,[58] a level of more beauty and largeness.
Within an infinity of rocks may be intombed abundance of rich minerals,
among which silver and copper are supposed to be the chief. Out of these
rocks do gush out delicate streams of water which, together with the
temper of the air, maketh this place marvelous wholesome in summer—which
is the cause I have not known one man sick all the time I was there,
save only that villain which accused you falsely concerning Swabber, and
died (aboard the _Bona Nova_) as he had lived, frantic.[59] Yet is the
air too cold here for the summer, but with an easterly wind subject to
fogs and mists.
The people[60] seem to be of one race with those in Virginia, both in
respect of their qualities and language. They are great lovers of their
children and people, and very revengeful of wrongs offered. They make
their canoes, their arrows, their bows, their tobacco pipes and other
their implements far more neat and artificially than in those parts.
They dress, also, and paint leather; and make trousers, buskins, shoes
with far greater curiosity. Corn they set none in their parts toward the
north, and that is the cause why Indian corn, pease and such like is the
best truck[61] for their skins—and then in winter especially, when
hunger doth most pinch them, which is the season when the French do use
to trade with them. They have the same names of numbers with them in the
south. _Accamus_ (in the southern language, a dog) they call here
_Aramouse_. For _Malta_ (no), they pronounce _Madda_; for _Matcheray_
(nought), _Mathat_; for _Mitchin_ (to eat), _Mitterim_; for _Kijos_ (the
sun), _Hijos_; and many other like or self-same words spoken by the
rebels[62] of the South Colony. Neither is their manner of singing and
dancing much different. Their babes here also they bind to a board and
set them up against a wall, as they do here in the south. Likewise,
their head they anoint with oil mixed with vermillion; and are of the
same hair, eyes and skin that those are of.