THE STORY AND ROMANCE OF SOME SOUTH WARWICKSHIRE MANOR–HOUSES
Some twelve miles to the south–east of Stratford lies Compton
Wynyates, one of the most interesting and picturesque manor–houses
in Warwickshire, reached by a road scarcely more than a by–way from
Upper Tysoe, and lying beautifully situated and secluded in a thickly
wooded dell. Scarcely seen until one comes quite close to it, at first
sight it gives merely an impression of a multitude of gables, turrets,
and chimneys, with the central porch flanked by two picturesque
half–timbered gables partly overgrown by creepers and ivy.
The whole building except the gables is battlemented, and the ancient
chimneys of zigzag and cable pattern give it an additional and unique
picturesqueness. The old moat which formerly surrounded it has been
filled in, with the exception of a portion to the north, now enclosing
a beautiful flower–garden, which was very probably in former days
covered with buildings.
The name Compton Wynyates is supposed by many to have been derived
from the fact that in ancient times a vineyard was situated on the
slopes which surround the house, and the weight of tradition is also in
favour of this derivation. The property has been in the possession of
the Compton family since the reign of King John, and although records
are lacking to support the view, it seems possible that it came into
the hands of the Comptons at the date of the Conquest. But, although
in the reign of Edward III. one John de Compton was a knight for the
shire in Parliament, the family appear not to have gained any great
distinction until the beginning of the sixteenth century.
At the end of the fifteenth century William Compton succeeded his
father Edmund, but being then only eleven years of age he became a
ward of the Crown, and was brought up with Henry VIII. His association
with the latter was destined to bear very material fruit in the way of
advancement in later years, as, becoming a great favourite with Henry,
he eventually received several important appointments in the State.
Old Fuller, the chronicler, says of Compton, “He was highly and
deservedly a favourite to this King, so that, in the Court, no laymen,
abating onely Charles Brandon (in whom affection and affinity met), was
equall unto him.”
To this William Compton the King granted an augmentation to his arms
from his own Royal ensigns and devices, and at the beginning of his
reign made him custodian of the castle at Fulbroke, which had fallen
into ruins.
About 1509 Sir William Compton, who had gained great distinction at
the Battle of Spurs, and had been knighted for his gallantry, pulled
down the castle, and with part of the materials—consisting in the main
of some of the stone, the chimneys, and part of the woodwork—set about
building himself a mansion at Compton Wynyates. Tradition asserts that
the chimneys were carried from the ruined castle, for use in the new
mansion, in panniers on the backs of horses and donkeys. Thus was built
one of the most interesting and picturesque mansions of Warwickshire,
and, indeed, of any county in England.
The house was erected round a quadrangle 75 feet square. The four
sides of the building, however, were not designed with exactitude, the
north being 140 feet, the south 146 feet, the east 155 feet, and the
west 152 feet in length. Over the arch of the entrance porch are carved
the arms of Henry VIII., supported by a griffin and a greyhound, above
which is a crown with the inscription, “DOM.REX.HENRICVS.OCTAV.” On
the hollow mouldings of the drip–stone are figures of lizards, other
animals, and roses; whilst on each side is the Tudor double rose of
York and Lancaster beneath a crown. The left–hand spandril is filled in
with a device of Catherine of Aragon formed by the Castle of Castile
and the pomegranate of Granada: also a sheaf of arrows, the badge of
her mother Isabella. The right–hand spandril contains the portcullis,
which was a badge of Henry VIII. Anciently there was, of course, a
drawbridge, and inside the archway on either side are stone benches and
doors which led out to the moat when the drawbridge was raised. The old
oak doors contain a wicket, and still show traces of bombardment from
callivers and matchlocks. But these doors, which are strongly panelled
inside, would appear to have successfully resisted all the attacks made
upon them.
On passing beneath the entrance porch into the inner court one is
at once struck by the beautiful bay–window on the right–hand side
containing eight lights, with mullions and transoms and carved panels,
and battlements above. Between two windows on the left of the door
is a lion’s head carved in stone, which is worth notice, as there is
a tradition that on festive occasions it ran with wine, which was
supplied from the inside of the house and ran into a basin formerly
fixed below the head. This courtyard is rendered more picturesque than
even it would otherwise be by the beautiful flowers and creepers, more
especially the fuchsias, which adorn it.
On entering the house one passes the Buttery on the left, divided from
the Hall itself by an oak screen carved in the linen–fold pattern, and
from this a short passage leads to the kitchens, which still contain
the large recessed fireplaces of Tudor times.
Between the chapel and the Hall is the great parlour, with its oak
panelling and plaster ceiling bearing the arms of Compton and Spencer,
built in the reign of Elizabeth by William Compton, first Earl of
Northampton.
[Illustration: STRATFORD–ON–AVON—THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL.]
The great Hall itself extends the full height of the house, and
possesses a fine open–timbered roof, the beams of which spring from a
richly carved cornice. The roof was apparently brought from some older
building and reduced in size to fit its present use. It is probable,
too, that it originally extended one bay farther, which would give it
its true proportions.
At one end is a picturesque half–timbered Minstrel Gallery, with open
panel–work, the gallery in the south–east angle being a modern addition.
There is an interesting survival of the games of our ancestors in
the huge slab of elm, over 23 feet in length and 30 inches in width,
which was made to rest on tressels, and in all probability was used
for playing “shovel–board,” a popular amusement in the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries.
It was in this Hall that the builder, Sir William Compton, received
Henry VIII., with whom he had been at the Field of the Cloth of Gold,
and doubtless it has been the scene of many almost equally notable
festivities during the centuries which have passed since its erection.
The Chapel, which is on the south side of the quadrangle, is divided
into two portions by an oak screen with a gate in the centre. Over the
screen are carved panels, and on the left of the gate on the outer
side is one probably representing the scourging of Christ previous to
the Crucifixion; whilst that on the left represents a female figure on
a pedestal intended apparently for the Virgin Mary, the stag having
reference to the legend of St. Hubert. Within the screen on the left
are representations of the seven deadly sins, each mounted on a horse
with a small demon behind, urging on the rider. At the head of the
procession is a monk, and the figure of the devil is seen standing
ready to receive them. On the right–hand side there is a carving of
figures (probably Twelfth Night mummers) in State robes, having swords
in their left hands. The centre panels on both sides of the screen
are blank. The general impression is that these carvings, which are
certainly of greater age than the house, were brought from Fulbroke
Castle, built by John, Duke of Bedford, in the reign of Henry V., the
custody of which was given to Sir William Compton by Henry VIII.
The great window on the south–western side of the chapel contains
five lights, with cinquefoil heads divided by a transom, and with the
spandrils and sill carved. In it was formerly some beautiful painted
glass representing the Passion, in which also were depicted the figures
of the builder of the house and his wife and three children, and the
family arms. The glass was removed to Balliol College, Oxford, during
the period of the Civil War. It is difficult to exactly locate the
former position of the high altar in reference to the great window, it
being possible, as was sometimes the case, that the celebrant took up
his position behind it, and thus faced north–east, having his back, of
course, towards the window itself.
Amongst the other more notable portions of this fine manor–house,
which in its entirety contains eighty rooms with seventeen separate
flights of stairs and 275 windows, which in the days of the window
tax were reduced to the number of thirty, is the private dining–room
built in the reign of Elizabeth by William Compton, first Earl of
Northampton, ornamented with the arms of Compton and Spencer. The
carving of the chimney–piece moulding of hard fir–wood is supposed to
be the work of Thomas Chippendale, the well–known wood–carver of George
II.’s time.
The Music– or Smoking–room is probably a comparatively modern addition
to the house, about the year 1738; here too the chimney moulding
appears to be the work of Chippendale.
On the second floor, approached by the great staircase, which although
occupying its original position is a modern reproduction dating only
from 1867, King Charles’ room is reached, situated on the north side
overlooking the moat. In this room Charles is said to have slept when
a guest here. The moat and the upper part of the house could in those
days be reached by a spiral staircase just outside the room.
The Drawing–room on the south side of the house is a beautiful room,
oak panelled, and with a handsome plaster ceiling placed there in the
time of Elizabeth and recently carefully restored. The carving and
panelling over the mantelpiece were brought from Canonbury House, which
was the manor–house of Islington, purchased by Sir John Spencer, the
father of the first Earl, in 1570. The chapel drawing–room, in which
are oak carvings and a moulded ceiling, has on the south side hinged
panels, and a door which leads into the upper portion of the chapel,
and through which people in the room could hear the service.
Next to this room is the bed–chamber occupied by Henry VIII. when
visiting the house, and containing a window in which is some old
painted glass. In one of the lights is a Tudor rose intact, and in
others there are portions of the arms of Catherine of Aragon. The
ceiling, which is interesting and curious, was probably made in the
reign of Charles I., and contains the arms of the various royal guests
who had honoured the house with their presence, including Henry VIII.,
Queen Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I.
The Council Chamber in the great tower is reached by a circular
staircase, and is notable for its beautiful split oak panelling,
exhibiting the grain of the wood in a manner impossible where sawn
timber is used. In a small chamber adjoining is a well–hole, probably
once forming the entrance to a secret passage communicating with a
trap–door in the north wing.
There were in ancient times a large number of secret hiding–places
at Compton Wynyates. Next but one to the room of Henry VIII. is a
chamber from which there was communication with a secret hiding–place
of quite considerable dimensions, reached from it by a stairway of
eleven steps only 19 inches wide. In this stairway is an “observation
hole,” some 10 inches high and about 2–1/2 inches wide, formerly
concealed by the panelling, by means of which the approach of the enemy
or of a search party could be watched by the fugitive in hiding. The
secret chamber is about seven feet square, and has two windows and a
small fireplace. One of the distinguishing features of the house is
the number of its windows and chimneys; a circumstance that made it
extremely difficult for searchers to locate any secret hiding–place,
even though furnished with both. Few manor–houses have, or at least
had, more numerous places of concealment great and small than Compton
Wynyates. In the south–western turret is another hiding–place, stated
to have been discovered by Lady Frances Compton about 1770, whilst she
was playing there as a child. The story goes that she fell against the
plaster–work which concealed the door, and the hollow sound emitted
caused investigation to be made. Upon opening the chamber it was found
(so tradition states) to contain the skeletons of a woman (a nurse?)
and two children, concealed, it is supposed, at some period of trouble
and forgotten.
The famous priests’ room or chapel in the roof is reached from the
Council Chamber by three newel staircases, and it is even possible
there was a fourth in ancient times. This room was undoubtedly used as
a chapel, as there were many Popish recusants dwelling in the immediate
neighbourhood; a safer and less unostentatious place of worship was
scarcely possible. On an elm shelf below the south–west window are,
rudely carved, five consecration crosses, showing that it had been used
for the purpose of an altar, and was consecrated according to the rites
of the Romish Church. The slab of wood is unique, in that it forms the
only known instance of a wooden altar in England.
The part played by the Northampton family in the Civil War was such
as to attract the attention of the Parliamentary forces to even so
secluded a spot as Compton Wynyates, and on Thursday, June 6, a
detachment of Parliamentarians under Major Bridges appeared before
the house and besieged it for three days, when it surrendered. The
Parliamentarians are reported by Dugdale to have killed many of the
deer in the park, and also to have wantonly defaced the ornaments in
the Church.
James, the third Earl of Northampton, was ultimately permitted to
resume possession of the house and estates on payment of a heavy fine
to the Parliamentary party.
Since that time the peace of the fine old grey pile has been
undisturbed, and the ninth earl, who was created a marquis in 1812,
repaired the house, which had fallen somewhat into decay.
Whether one regards Compton Wynyates from the point of view of an
ancient building of romantic and architectural interest, or as a
mansion set amid scenery of singular beauty, the place deserves to rank
very high indeed among the old houses around which has in past days
been woven so much of the glory and romance of England.
But to the interest of the house must be added the charm of the most
beautiful and picturesque gardens, maintained all the year round with
a care and lavishness which make them some of the most lovely in the
country.
Some four miles to the south–west of Wormleighton, picturesquely
situated amidst a group of the Burton Hills, is the tiny village of
Burton Dassett, once said to have been a market–town, and then known
as Chipping Dassett. It was, however, almost entirely destroyed in
the reign of Henry VII. by Sir Edward Belknap; who, then lord of the
manor, destroyed the village for the purpose of making enclosures of
the lands. He was never punished for this ruthless act, because of
the public services he had rendered the King, and at the close of the
fifteenth century was granted immunity by his Sovereign from being
punished for or questioned concerning his deeds. The village nowadays
consists of but two or three farm–houses.
It possesses, however, a fine and very interesting Church of All
Saints, and a romantic interest in its ancient beacon, which stands
upon the extreme north–western point of the Burton Hills, near the
well–known windmill.
The Beacon, which is a stone fourteenth and fifteenth century
building, some sixteen feet in height and sixty–two feet in
circumference, with walls of extreme thickness, has a conical roof,
and projecting from the top are twenty–five corbels, which apparently
supported a gallery in former times reached by a wooden ladder or
outside stairs. There are two windows, one looking out westward to
the Malvern Hills, and another in a north–easterly direction towards
Rugby and High Cross. From the summit of this stunted tower there is
on a clear day a wonderful prospect to the south–east, only bounded by
Irvinghoe, forty miles distant, where there was another beacon; whilst
to the north–east, twenty miles distant, was Bickenhill Beacon, and
to the north north–east High Cross in Leicestershire, and the south
south–east Nettlebed in Oxfordshire, twenty–five miles off, with all of
which places there was in former days signalling communication by means
of a fire lighted in a large cresset, some three feet in diameter and
some eighteen inches deep, which was placed upon a pole and fixed to
the roof.
Very prettily situated below the Beacon, on the southern spur of the
hill, is the church, which in its size and beauty speaks eloquently of
the town which once supplied it with worshippers, but is now almost
untraceable. The building consists of a chancel, transepts, nave,
aisles, and north porch, and at the west end an embattled tower.
The architectural features of the exterior, which at once attract
attention, are the fine Early English five–light window in the north
transept, with its plate tracery.
The north porch is Decorative in design, and is ornamented with ball
flower moulding; the doorway, however, is Norman, as is also that on
the south side of the church. It seems more than possible, indeed, that
these doorways are survivals of the ancient Norman Church, which the
present building superseded. The tower dates from the early part of the
fourteenth century, and has exceedingly massive walls. The interior
of the church, when viewed from the tower entrance, is unusually
impressive and striking.
[Illustration: STRATFORD–ON–AVON.]
The interior presents a number of most interesting features, for in it
is to be found work of the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth,
and seventeenth centuries. The unusually fine chancel arch is
Transitional; the chancel itself is probably early fourteenth–century
work.
Some eight miles south–west of Compton Wynyates, retired from the
Oxford Road, stands the interesting, picturesque, and considerable
manor–house of Little Wolford. With its ancient courtyard, shaded by
yews and gay in summer with hollyhocks and other old–time flowers, it
is still a fine specimen of a half–timbered stone mansion of the early
part of the sixteenth century. Formerly belonging to the Ingraham
family, the place has fallen into decay, and from its old estate as a
considerable and picturesque mansion.
The Hall, which possesses an open timbered roof, has a good Tudor
fireplace, and on the walls are hung old portraits of former owners,
and relics in the shape of saddlery and arms, said to have been used
during the Civil War. At the back of the house is a chamber with a
large oven, in which, tradition asserts, rightly or wrongly, Charles
II. hid when a fugitive after Worcester fight.