The Guardiano.--One too many.--An Excess of Kindness.--The last Day
of Quarantine.--Mr. Baguet.--Rise of Odessa.--City-making.--Count
Woronzow.--A Gentleman Farmer.--An American Russian.
I SHALL pass over briefly the whole of our _pratique_. The next morning
I succeeded in getting a room to myself. A guardiano was assigned to
each room, who took his place in the antechamber, and was always in
attendance. These guardianos are old soldiers, entitled by the rules of
the establishment to so much a day; but, as they always expect a
gratuity, their attention and services are regulated by that
expectation. I was exceedingly fortunate in mine; he was always in the
antechamber, cleaning his musket, mending his clothes, or stretched on a
mattress looking at the wall; and, whenever I came through with my hat
on, without a word he put on his belt and followed me; and very soon,
instead of regarding him as an encumbrance, I became accustomed to him,
and it was a satisfaction to have him with me. Sometimes, in walking for
exercise, I moved so briskly that it tired him to keep up with me; and
then I selected a walk where he could sit down and keep his eye upon me,
while I walked backward and forward before him. Besides this, he kept my
room in order, set my table, carried my notes, brushed my clothes, and
took better care of me than any servant I ever had.
Our party consisted of eight, and being subjected to the same
quarantine, and supposed to have the same quantum of infection, we were
allowed to visit each other; and every afternoon we met in the yard,
walked an hour or two, took tea together, and returned to our own
rooms, where our guardianos mounted guard in the antechamber; our gates
were locked up, and a soldier walked outside as sentinel. I was
particularly intimate with the Russian officer, whom I found one of the
most gentlemanly, best educated, and most amiable men I ever met. He had
served and been wounded in the campaign against Poland; had with him two
soldiers, his own serfs, who had served under him in that campaign, and
had accompanied him in his tour in Egypt and Syria. He gave me his
address at St. Petersburgh and promised me the full benefit of his
acquaintance there. I have before spoken of the three Englishmen. Two of
them I had met at Corfu; the third joined them at Smyrna, and added
another proof to the well-established maxim that three spoil company;
for I soon found that they had got together by the ears; and the
new-comer having connected himself with one of the others, they were
anxious to get rid of the third. Many causes of offence existed between
them; and though they continued to room together, they were merely
waiting till the end of our pratique for an opportunity to separate. One
morning the one who was about being thrown off came to my room, and told
me that he did not care about going to the Crimea, and proposed
accompanying me. This suited me very well; it was a long and expensive
journey, and would cost a mere fraction more for two than for one; and
when the breach was widened past all possibility of being healed, the
cast-off and myself agreed to travel together. I saw much of the
secretary of legation, and also of the Greek and Frenchman, my
room-mates for the first night. Indeed, I think I may say that I was an
object of special interest to all our party. I was unwell, and my
companions overwhelmed me with prescriptions and advice; they brought
in their medicine chests; one assuring me that he had been cured by
this, another by that, and each wanted me to swallow his own favourite
medicine, interlarding their advice with anecdotes of whole sets of
passengers who had been detained, some forty, some fifty, and some sixty
days, by the accidental sickness of one. I did all I could for them,
always having regard to the circumstance that it was not of such vital
importance to me, at least, to hold out fourteen days if I broke down on
the fifteenth. In a few days the doctor, in one of his rounds, told me
he understood I was unwell, and I confessed to him the reason of my
withholding the fact, and took his prescriptions so well, that, at
parting, he gave me a letter to a friend in Chioff, and to his brother,
a distinguished professor in the university at St. Petersburgh.
We had a restaurant in the lazaretto, with a new bill of fare every day;
not first-rate, perhaps, but good enough. I had sent a letter of
introduction to Mr. Baguet, the Spanish consul, also to a German, the
brother of a missionary at Constantinople, and a note to Mr. Ralli, the
American consul, and had frequent visits from them, and long talks at
the parlatoria through the grating. The German was a knowing one, and
came often; he had a smattering of English, and would talk in that
language, as I thought, in compliment to me; but the last time he came
he thanked me kindly, and told me he had improved more in his English
than by a year's study. When I got out he never came near me.
Sunday, June seventh, was our last day in quarantine. We had counted the
days anxiously; and though our time had passed as agreeably as, under
the circumstances, it could pass, we were in high spirits at the
prospect of our liberation. To the last, the attention and civility of
the officers of the yard continued unremitted. Every morning regularly
the director knocked at each gate to inquire how we had passed the
night, and whether he could do anything for us; then the doctor, to
inquire into our corporeal condition; and every two or three days,
toward evening, the director, with the same decoration on the lapel of
his coat, and at the same hour, inquired whether we had any complaints
to make of want of attendance or improper treatment.
Our last day in the lazaretto is not to be forgotten. We kept as clear
of the rest of the inmates as if they had been pickpockets, though once
I was thrown into a cold sweat by an act of forgetfulness. A child fell
down before me; I sprang forward to pick him up, and should infallibly
have been fixed for ten days longer if my guardiano had not caught me.
Lingering for the last time on the walk overlooking the Black Sea, I saw
a vessel coming up under full sail, bearing, as I thought, the American
flag. My heart almost bounded at seeing the stars and stripes on the
Black Sea; but I was deceived; and almost dejected with the
disappointment, called my guardiano, and returned for the last time to
my room.
The next morning we waited in our rooms till the doctor paid his final
visit, and soon after we all gathered before the door of the directory,
ready to sally forth. Every one who has made a European voyage knows the
metamorphosis in the appearance of the passengers on the day of landing.
It was much the same with us; we had no more slipshod, long-bearded
companions, but all were clean shirted and shaved becomingly, except our
old Jew and his party, who probably had not changed a garment or washed
their faces since the first day in quarantine, nor perhaps for many
years before. They were people from whom, under any circumstances, one
would be apt to keep at a respectful distance; and to the last they
carried everything before them.
We had still another vexatious process in passing our luggage through
the custom-house. We had handed in a list of all our effects the night
before, in which I intentionally omitted to mention Byron's poems, these
being prohibited in Russia. He had been my companion in Italy and
Greece, and I was loath to part with him; so I put the book under my
arm, threw my cloak over me, and walked out unmolested. Outside the gate
there was a general shaking of hands; the director, whom we had seen
every day at a distance, was the first to greet us, and Mr. Baguet, the
brother of the Spanish consul, who was waiting to receive me, welcomed
me to Russia. With sincere regret I bade good-by to my old soldier,
mounted a drosky, and in ten minutes was deposited in a hotel, in size
and appearance equal to the best in Paris. It was a pleasure once more
to get into a wheel-carriage; I had not seen one since I left Italy,
except the old hack I mentioned at Argos, and the arabas at
Constantinople. It was a pleasure, too, to see hats, coats, and
pantaloons. Early associations will cling to a man; and, in spite of a
transient admiration for the dashing costume of the Greek and Turk, I
warmed to the ungraceful covering of civilized man, even to the long
surtout and bell-crowned hat of the Russian marchand; and, more than
all, I was attracted by an appearance of life and energy particularly
striking after coming from among the dead-and-alive Turks.
While in quarantine I had received an invitation to dine with Mr.
Baguet, and had barely time to make one tour of the city in a drosky
before it was necessary to dress for dinner. Mr. Baguet was a bachelor
of about forty, living in pleasant apartments, in an unpretending and
gentlemanly style. As in all the ports of the Levant, except where there
are ambassadors, the consuls are the nobility of the place. Several of
them were present; and the European consuls in those places are a
different class of men from ours, as they are paid by salaries from
their respective governments, while ours, who receive no pay, are
generally natives of the place, who serve for the honour or some other
accidental advantage. We had, therefore, the best society in Odessa at
Mr. Baguet's, the American consul not being present, which, by-the-way,
I do not mean in a disrespectful sense, as Mr. Ralli seemed every way
deserving of all the benefits that the station gives.
In the evening the consul and myself took two or three turns on the
boulevards, and at about eleven I returned to my hotel. After what I
have said of this establishment, the reader will be surprised to learn
that, when I went to my room, I found there a bedstead, but no bed or
bedclothes. I supposed it was neglect, and ordered one to be prepared;
but, to my surprise, was told that there were no beds in the hotel. It
was kept exclusively for the rich seigneurs who always carry their own
beds with them. Luckily, the bedstead was not corded, but contained a
bottom of plain slabs of wood, about six or eight inches wide, and the
same distance apart, laid crosswise, so that lengthwise there was no
danger of falling through; and wrapping myself in my cloak, and putting
my carpet-bag under my head, I went to sleep.
Before breakfast the next morning I had learned the topography of
Odessa. To an American Russia is an interesting country. True, it is not
classic ground; but as for me, who had now travelled over the faded and
wornout kingdoms of the Old World, I was quite ready for something new.
Like our own, Russia is a new country, and in many respects resembles
ours. It is true that we began life differently. Russia has worked her
way to civilization from a state of absolute barbarism, while we sprang
into being with the advantage of all the lights of the Old World. Still
there are many subjects of comparison, and even of emulation, between
us; and nowhere in all Russia is there a more proper subject to begin
with than my first landing-place.
Odessa is situated in a small bay between the mouths of the Dnieper and
Dniester. Forty years ago it consisted of a few miserable fishermen's
huts on the shores of the Black Sea. In 1796 the Empress Catharine
resolved to built a city there; and the Turks being driven from the
dominion of the Black Sea, it became a place of resort and speculation
for the English, Austrians, Neapolitans, Dutch, Ragusans, and Greeks of
the Ionian republic. In eighteen hundred and two, two hundred and
eighty vessels arrived from Constantinople and the Mediterranean; and
the Duke de Richelieu, being appointed governor-general by Alexander,
laid out a city upon a gigantic scale, which, though at first its growth
was not commensurate with his expectations, now contains sixty thousand
inhabitants, and bids fair to realize the extravagant calculations of
its founder. Mr. Baguet and the gentlemen whom I met at his table were
of opinion that it is destined to be the greatest commercial city in
Russia, as the long winters and the closing of the Baltic with ice must
ever be a great disadvantage to St. Petersburgh; and the interior of the
country can as well be supplied from Odessa as from the northern
capital.
There is no country where cities have sprung up so fast and increased so
rapidly as in ours; and, altogether, perhaps nothing in the world can be
compared with our Buffalo, Rochester, Cincinnati, &c. But Odessa has
grown faster than any of these, and has nothing of the appearance of one
of our new cities. We are both young, and both marching with gigantic
strides to greatness, but we move by different roads; and the whole face
of the country, from the new city on the borders of the Black Sea to the
steppes of Siberia, shows a different order of government and a
different constitution of society. With us, a few individuals cut down
the trees of the forest, or settle themselves by the banks of a stream,
where they happen to find some local advantages, and build houses suited
to their necessities; others come and join them; and, by degrees, the
little settlement becomes a large city. But here a gigantic government,
endowed almost with creative powers, says, "Let there be a city," and
immediately commences the erection of large buildings. The rich
seigneurs follow the lead of government, and build hotels to let out in
apartments. The theatre, casino, and exchange at Odessa are perhaps
superior to any buildings in the United States. The city is situated on
an elevation about a hundred feet above the sea; a promenade three
quarters of a mile long, terminated at one end by the exchange, and at
the other by the palace of the governor, is laid out in front along the
margin of the sea, bounded on one side by an abrupt precipice, and
adorned with trees, shrubs, flowers, statues, and busts, like the garden
of the Tuileries, the Borghese Villa, or the Villa Recali at Naples. On
the other side is a long range of hotels built of stone, running the
whole length of the boulevards, some of them with facades after the best
models in Italy. A broad street runs through the centre of the city,
terminating with a semicircular enlargement at the boulevards, and in
the centre of this stands a large equestrian statue erected to the Duke
de Richelieu; and parallel and at right angles are wide streets lined
with large buildings, according to the most approved plans of modern
architecture. The custom which the people have of taking apartments in
hotels causes the erection of large buildings, which add much to the
general appearance of the city; while with us, the universal disposition
of every man to have a house to himself, conduces to the building of
small houses, and, consequently, detracts from general effect. The city,
as yet, is not generally paved, and is, consequently, so dusty, that
every man is obliged to wear a light cloak to save his dress.
Paving-stone is brought from Trieste and Malta, and is very expensive.
About two o'clock Mr. Ralli, our consul, called upon me. Mr. Ralli is a
Greek of Scio. He left his native island when a boy; has visited every
port in Europe as a merchant, and lived for the last eight years in
Odessa. He has several brothers in England, Trieste, and some of the
Greek islands, and all are connected in business. When Mr. Rhind, who
negotiated our treaty with the Porte, left Odessa, he authorized Mr.
Ralli to transact whatever consular business might be required, and on
his recommendation Mr. Ralli afterward received a regular appointment as
consul. Mr. Rhind, by-the-way, expected a great trade from opening the
Black Sea to American bottoms; but he was wrong in his anticipations,
and there have been but two American vessels there since the treaty. Mr.
Ralli is rich and respected, being vice-president of the commercial
board, and very proud of the honour of the American consulate, as it
gives him a position among the dignitaries of the place, enables him to
wear a uniform and sword on public occasions, and yields him other
privileges which are gratifying, at least, if not intrinsically
valuable.
No traveller can pass through Odessa without having to acknowledge the
politeness of Count Woronzow, the governor of the Crimea, one of the
richest seigneurs in Russia, and one of the pillars of the throne. At
the suggestion of Mr. Ralli, I accompanied him to the palace and was
presented. The palace is a magnificent building, and the interior
exhibits a combination of wealth and taste. The walls are hung with
Italian paintings, and, for interior ornaments and finish, the palace is
far superior to those in Italy; the knobs of the doors are of amber, and
the doors of the dining-room from the old imperial palace at St.
Petersburgh. The count is a military-looking man of about fifty, six
feet high, with sallow complexion and gray hair. His father married an
English lady of the Sidney family, and his sister married the Earl of
Pembroke. He is a soldier in bearing and appearance, held a high rank
during the French invasion of Russia, and distinguished himself
particularly at Borodino; in rank and power he is the fourth military
officer in the empire. He possesses immense wealth in all parts of
Russia, particularly in the Crimea; and his wife's mother, after
Demidoff and Scheremetieff, is the richest subject in the whole empire.
He speaks English remarkably well, and, after a few commonplaces, with
his characteristic politeness to strangers, invited me to dine at the
palace the next day. I was obliged to decline, and he himself suggested
the reason, that probably I was engaged with my countryman, Mr. Sontag
(of whom more anon), whom the count referred to as his old friend,
adding that he would not interfere with the pleasure of a meeting
between two countrymen so far from home, and asked me for the day after,
or any other day I pleased. I apologized on the ground of my intended
departure, and took my leave.
My proposed travelling companion had committed to me the whole
arrangements for our journey, or, more properly, had given me the whole
trouble of making them; and, accompanied by one of Mr. Ralli's clerks, I
visited all the carriage repositories to purchase a vehicle, after which
I accompanied Mr. Ralli to his country-house to dine. He occupied a
pretty little place a few versts from Odessa, with a large fruit and
ornamental garden. Mr. Ralli's lady is also a native of Greece, with
much of the cleverness and _spirituelle_ character of the educated
Greeks. One of her _bons mots_ current in Odessa is, that her husband is
consul for the other world. A young Italian, with a very pretty wife,
dined with us, and, after dinner and a stroll through the garden, we
walked over to Mr. Perseani's, the father of our Russian secretary;
another walk in the garden with a party of ladies, tea, and I got back
to Odessa in time for a walk on the boulevards and the opera.
Before my attention was turned to Odessa, I should as soon have thought
of an opera-house at Chicago as there; but I already found, what
impressed itself more forcibly upon me at every step, that Russia is a
country of anomalies. The new city on the Black Sea contains many French
and Italian residents, who are willing to give all that is not necessary
for food and clothing for the opera; the Russians themselves are
passionately fond of musical and theatrical entertainments, and
government makes up all deficiencies. The interior of the theatre
corresponds with the beauty of its exterior. All the decorations are in
good taste, and the Corinthian columns, running from the foot to the
top, particularly beautiful. The opera was the Barber of Seville; the
company in _full_ undress, and so barbarous as to pay attention to the
performance. I came out at about ten o'clock, and, after a turn or two
on the boulevards, took an icecream at the cafe of the Hotel de
Petersbourgh. This hotel is beautifully situated on one corner of the
main street, fronting the boulevards, and opposite the statue of the
Duke de Richelieu; and looking from the window of the cafe, furnished
and fitted up in a style superior to most in Paris, upon the crowd still
thronging the boulevards, I could hardly believe that I was really on
the borders of the Black Sea.
Having purchased a carriage and made all my arrangements for starting, I
expected to pass this day with an unusual degree of satisfaction, and I
was not disappointed. I have mentioned incidentally the name of a
countryman resident in Odessa; and, being so far from home, I felt a
yearning toward an American. In France or Italy I seldom had this
feeling, for there Americans congregate in crowds; but in Greece and
Turkey I always rejoiced to meet a compatriot; and when, on my arrival
at Odessa, before going into the lazaretto, the captain told me that
there was an American residing there, high in character and office, who
had been twenty years in Russia, I requested him to present my
compliments, and say that, if he had not forgotten his fatherland, a
countryman languishing in the lazaretto would be happy to see him
through the gratings of his prison-house. I afterward regretted having
sent this message, as I heard from other sources that he was a
prominent man, and during the whole term of my quarantine I never heard
from him personally. I was most agreeably disappointed, however, when,
on the first day of my release, I met him at dinner at the Spanish
consul's. He had been to the Crimea with Count Woronzow; had only
returned that morning, and had never heard of my being there until
invited to meet me at dinner. I had wronged him by my distrust; for,
though twenty years an exile, his heart beat as true as when he left our
shores. Who can shake off the feeling that binds him to his native land?
Not hardships nor disgrace at home; not favour nor success abroad; not
even time, can drive from his mind the land of his birth or the friends
of his youthful days.
General Sontag was a native of Philadelphia; had been in our navy, and
served as sailing-master on board the Wasp; became dissatisfied from
some cause which he did not mention, left our navy, entered the Russian,
and came round to the Black Sea as captain of a frigate; was transferred
to the land service, and, in the campaign of 1814, entered Paris with
the allied armies as colonel of a regiment. In this campaign he formed a
friendship with Count Woronzow, which exists in full force at this day.
He left the army with the rank of brigadier-general. By the influence of
Count Woronzow, he was appointed inspector of the port of Odessa, in
which office he stood next in rank to the Governor of the Crimea, and,
in fact, on one occasion, during the absence of Count Woronzow, lived in
the palace and acted as governor for eight months. He married a lady of
rank, with an estate and several hundred slaves at Moscow; wears two or
three ribands at his buttonhole, badges of different orders; has gone
through the routine of offices and honours up to the grade of grand
counsellor of the empire; and a letter addressed to him under the title
of "his excellency" will come to the right hands. He was then living at
his country place, about eight versts from Odessa, and asked me to go
out and pass the next day with him. I was strongly tempted, but, in
order that I might have the full benefit of it, postponed the pleasure
until I had completed my arrangements for travelling. The next day
General Sontag called upon me, but I did not see him; and this morning,
accompanied by Mr. Baguet the younger, I rode out to his place. The land
about Odessa is a dead level, the road was excessively dry, and we were
begrimed with dust when we arrived. General Sontag was waiting for us,
and, in the true spirit of an American farmer at home, proposed taking
us over his grounds. His farm is his hobby; it contains about six
hundred acres, and we walked all over it. His crop was wheat, and,
although I am no great judge of these matters, I think I never saw
finer. He showed me a field of very good wheat, which had not been sowed
in three years, but produced by the fallen seed of the previous crops.
We compared it with our Genesee wheat, and to me it was an interesting
circumstance to find an American cultivating land on the Black Sea, and
comparing it with the products of our Genesee flats, with which he was
perfectly familiar.
One thing particularly struck me, though, as an American, perhaps I
ought not to have been so sensitive. A large number of men were at work
in the field, and they were all slaves. Such is the force of education
and habit, that I have seen hundreds of black slaves without a
sensation; but it struck rudely upon me to see white men slaves to an
American, and he one whose father had been a soldier of the revolution,
and had fought to sustain the great principle that "all men are by
nature free and equal." Mr. Sontag told me that he valued his farm at
about six thousand dollars, on which he could live well, have a bottle
of Crimea wine, and another every day for a friend, and lay up one
thousand dollars a year; but I afterward heard that he was a complete
enthusiast on the subject of his farm; a bad manager, and that he really
knew nothing of its expense or profit.
Returning to the house, we found Madame Sontag ready to receive us. She
is an authoress of great literary reputation, and of such character
that, while the emperor was prosecuting the Turkish war in person, and
the empress remained at Odessa, the young archduchesses were placed
under her charge. At dinner she talked with much interest of America,
and expressed a hope, though not much expectation, of one day visiting
it. But General Sontag himself, surrounded as he is by Russian
connexions, is all American. Pointing to the riband on his buttonhole,
he said he was entitled to one order which he should value above all
others; that his father had been a soldier of the revolution, and member
of the Cincinnati Society, and that in Russia the decoration of that
order would be to him the proudest badge of honour that an American
could wear. After dining we retired into a little room fitted up as a
library, which he calls America, furnished with all the standard
American books, Irving, Paulding, Cooper, &c., engravings of
distinguished Americans, maps, charts, canal and railroad reports, &c.;
and his daughter, a lovely little girl and only child, has been taught
to speak her father's tongue and love her father's land. In honour of me
she played on the piano "Hail Columbia" and "Yankee Doodle," and the
day wore away too soon. We took tea on the piazza, and at parting I
received from him a letter to his agent on his estate near Moscow, and
from Madame Sontag one which carried me into the imperial household,
being directed to Monsieur l'Intendant du Prince heritiere,
Petersbourgh. A few weeks ago I received from him a letter, in which he
says, "the visit of one of my countrymen is so great a treat, that I can
assure you, you are never forgotten by any one of my little family; and
when my daughter wishes to make me smile, she is sure to succeed if she
sits down to her piano and plays 'Hail Columbia' or 'Yankee Doodle;'
this brings to mind Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, and Mr. ----, who have
passed through this city; to me alone it brings to mind my country,
parents, friends, youth, and a world of things and ideas past, never to
return. Should any of our countrymen be coming this way, do not forget
to inform them that in Odessa lives one who will be glad to see them;"
and I say now to any of my countrymen whom chance may throw upon the
shores of the Black Sea, that if he would receive so far from home the
welcome of a true-hearted American, General Sontag will be glad to
render it.
It was still early in the evening when I returned to the city. It was
moonlight, and I walked immediately to the boulevards. I have not spoken
as I ought to have done of this beautiful promenade, on which I walked
every evening under the light of a splendid moon. The boulevards are
bounded on one side by the precipitous shore of the sea; are three
quarters of a mile in length, with rows of trees on each side, gravel
walks and statues, and terminated at one end by the exchange, and at the
other by the palace of Count Woronzow. At this season of the year it
was the promenade of all the beauty and fashion of Odessa, from an hour
or two before dark until midnight. This evening the moon was brighter,
and the crowd was greater and gayer than usual. The great number of
officers, with their dashing uniforms, the clashing of their swords, and
rattling of their spurs, added to the effect; and woman never looks so
interesting as when leaning on the arm of a soldier. Even in Italy or
Greece I have seldom seen a finer moonlight scene than the columns of
the exchange through the vista of trees lining the boulevards. I
expected to leave the next day, and I lingered till a late hour. I
strolled up and down the promenade, alone among thousands. I sat down
upon a bench, and looked for the last time on the Black Sea, the stormy
Euxine, quiet in the moonbeams, and glittering like a lake of burnished
silver. By degrees the gay throng disappeared; one after another, party
after party withdrew; a few straggling couples, seeming all the world to
each other, still lingered, like me, unable to tear themselves away. It
was the hour and the place for poetry and feeling. A young officer and a
lady were the last to leave; they passed by me, but did not notice me;
they had lost all outward perceptions; and as, in passing for the last
time, she raised her head for a moment, and the moon shone full upon her
face, I saw there an expression that spoke of heaven. I followed them as
they went out, murmured involuntarily "Happy dog," whistled "Heighho,
says Thimble," and went to my hotel to bed.
END OF VOL. I.
List of Corrections:
p. iii, Preface: "Egypt, Arabia Petrae, and the Holy Land." was changed
to "Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the Holy Land."
p. 14: "that we coud" was changed to "that we could."
p. 87: "friends in this county" was changed to "friends in this
country."
p. 90: "but we connot" was changed to "but we cannot."
p. 99: "Gate of the Lyons" was changed to "Gate of the Lions" as in
the rest of the book.
p. 130: "to favour such a suiter" was changed to "to favour such a
suitor."
p. 174: "it is confirmed by poetry, hat" was changed to "it is
confirmed by poetry, that."
p. 183: "the jackall's cry was heard" was changed to "the jackal's cry
was heard."
p. 184: "cartainly whip them" was changed to "certainly whip them."
p. 233: "threade our way" was changed to "threaded our way."
p. 234: "Cachmere shawls" was changed to "Cashmere shawls."
p. 244: "the Phase, the Dneiper, and the Danube" was changed to "the
Phase, the Dnieper, and the Danube."
p. 258: "the mouths of the Dneiper and Dneister" was changed to "the
mouths of the Dnieper and Dniester."
p. 268: "quiet in the moonbeans" was changed to "quiet in the
moonbeams."
Errata:
The summary in the table of contents is not always consistent with the
summary at the beginning of each chapter. The original has been
retained.