Transcriber's Note
Superscript text is indicated by caret signs, e.g. 18^{TH}.
TRAVELS
IN THE
CENTRAL PARTS OF INDO-CHINA
(SIAM),
CAMBODIA, AND LAOS.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
THE KING AND QUEEN OF SIAM.]
TRAVELS
IN THE
CENTRAL PARTS OF INDO-CHINA
(SIAM),
CAMBODIA, AND LAOS,
DURING THE YEARS 1858, 1859, AND 1860.
BY THE LATE
M. HENRI MOUHOT,
FRENCH NATURALIST.
IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET,
1864.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET,
AND CHARING CROSS.
DEDICATION.
TO THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF ENGLAND, WHO HAVE FAVOURED WITH THEIR
ENCOURAGEMENT THE JOURNEY OF M. HENRI MOUHOT TO THE REMOTE LANDS OF
SIAM, LAOS, AND CAMBODIA.
I trust that the members of those scientific societies who kindly
supported and encouraged my brother in his travels and labours, will
receive favourably the documents collected by the family of the
intrepid traveller, whom death carried off in the flower of his age, in
the midst of his discoveries.
Had he been able to accomplish fully the end at which he aimed, it
would certainly have been to you that he would have offered the fruits
of his travels: he would have felt it his first duty to testify his
gratitude and esteem to the worthy representatives of science in
that great, free, and generous English nation who adopted him. Half
English by his marriage, M. Mouhot still preserved his love for his
own country: there, however, for various reasons he did not receive
the encouragement he anticipated, and it was on the hospitable soil
of England that he met with that aid and support, which not only
her scientific men, but the whole nation, delight in affording to
explorations in unknown countries, ever attended by perils and
hardships. The journal of the unfortunate traveller shows his feelings
of affection for the two countries which he loved equally, and his
devotion to science, art, and the progress of civilization.
I therefore feel it an imperative duty to express to you and to the
whole English nation the sentiments of gratitude to which this good and
loyal Frenchman so often gave utterance, while engaged in the work to
which he spontaneously devoted himself, and in which he was sustained
by your counsels and assistance.
Receive therefore from Madame Mouhot and myself, as a legacy left by
her dear husband and my affectionate brother, the expression of our
gratitude; and accept the work, left imperfect, it is true, but which
we hope will prove how much has been lost by the death of a brave
man, who, allied to the family of Mungo Park, met the same fate in
the East that that illustrious explorer did in Africa. M. Mouhot’s
premature end did not permit him to correct and arrange his journal,
which is an additional reason for claiming indulgence from you, whose
enlightened minds and generous benevolence will know how to appreciate
the circumstances under which this posthumous work sees the light.
CHARLES MOUHOT.
_Jersey, 1st December, 1862._
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
ONE OF THE SONS OF THE KING OF SIAM.]
PREFACE.
As will be seen, this work is compiled from the private letters of M.
Mouhot to his family and friends, and from his journal. I had also
the benefit of the paper destined by my brother for the Archæological
Society of London, on the interesting ruins of Ongcor. Among the
documents which, thanks to the active kindness of Sir R. Schomburgh,
British Consul at Bangkok, of Dr. Campbell, R.N., and of M. D’Istria,
French Consul, reached me as early as possible after my brother’s
death, I found valuable sketches and drawings, together with various
unfinished papers relative to his different scientific researches in
the countries he had visited and in districts which had only recently
been brought into notice by the advance of commerce, and by the
military expeditions which had been sent to the extreme East.
The family of M. Mouhot were divided in opinion as to the course to be
adopted with regard to these varied materials. Should they be kept in a
portfolio as a sacred but barren deposit, or should they be arranged in
the best manner possible and laid before the public?
After grave consideration they yielded to the representations of
friends of the deceased, and to myself was confided the painful but
interesting task of superintending the arrangement of the notes,
sketches, and documents for publication. I accordingly set about it at
once, under the first impressions of grief at the loss I had sustained,
and guided only by fraternal love, for I lay no claim to the title of
author. I have simply classified the masses of papers, the fruit of
four years’ travel, and added a few explanatory notes.
I have already stated the motives which induced me to dedicate this
work to the Savans of England, more especially to those with whom my
brother was connected through science or literature.
Let me give a short sketch of the work for which we claim the
indulgence of the public. I have first, preserving the chronological
order, divided the journal into chapters, inserting in their
appropriate places such portions of the private letters as served to
throw light on the subject. This forms the body of the work.
In an Appendix I have inserted the Chinese tales translated by the
author during his residence in Siam--some unfinished papers which
are only specimens of a zoological work which my brother intended
to publish--the descriptions of the principal entomological and
conchological specimens discovered by him, and which are now deposited
in the Museums of London and Paris--the Cambodian vocabulary, a proof
of his industry, of the variety of his knowledge, and of the care with
which he collected everything which might be useful to his successors
in the difficult path which he opened to them.
Lastly, I have collected the letters of my brother to his family and
other correspondents, together with some letters addressed to him,
a few of which were never even received, while others only reached
their destination after his death, or remained in the hands of friends
who were charged to deliver them. This correspondence tends, I think,
to display my brother’s character, the delicacy of his mind, and the
goodness of his heart, qualities which have been recognised by so many,
both during his life and after his death.
The engravings from his drawings will impart interest to the
descriptions of the ruins and vast buildings which he discovered in
the interior of Siam and Cambodia, testifying to an advanced state of
civilization in former times, and which, I venture to think, deserve
to be brought into notice. They will also familiarize the reader with
the manners, customs, and appearance of the country. My aim has been to
be useful to those who deign to read these pages; and, if fidelity be
merit in a book, I trust the reader will be satisfied.
Even should there be any errors in the numbers of the population, and
similar details concerning the little-known countries which my brother
traversed, I beg the reader to view them with indulgence, bearing in
mind that most of this journal was written in pencil, sent home from
a long distance, and some of it half effaced;--illegible, indeed, to
any one to whom his writing was not as well known as it was to Madame
Mouhot and myself, and who were not as intimate with the heart and
thoughts of the writer.
All these reasons induce me to reckon on the indulgence of the public.
The Memoir which follows was written by a friend in Holland. The
historical notice which I have thus introduced, appeared to me useful,
in order to give a clearer idea of the country which my brother has
contributed to make better known, and where he sealed with his death
his devotion to travel and scientific pursuits.
Let me add, in conclusion, that the family of M. Mouhot gladly embrace
the opportunity of thanking publicly all those who have given aid to
the traveller, and have testified their friendship for him; several are
mentioned in the course of the book by my brother himself, but others,
from whom he received equal kindness and support before embarking
on his perilous journey into unknown regions, have not perhaps been
noticed as they deserved. It was neither forgetfulness nor ingratitude
on his part; his death is his excuse.
CHARLES MOUHOT.
_Adelaide Lodge, Jersey,
January, 1863._
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. H. Rousseau, from a Photograph.
HENRI MOUHOT]
MEMOIR OF M. HENRI MOUHOT.
Alexander Henri Mouhot was born at Montbéliard on 15th May, 1826, of
parents not rich, but respectable. His father occupied a subordinate
post in the administration under Louis Philippe and the Republic, and
expended nearly the whole of his salary in the education of his two
sons, even undergoing many privations for that purpose. His mother,
a teacher of considerable merit, whose memory is held in respect by
all who knew her, died young, greatly through overwork and fatigue,
incurred in providing for the wants of her family and the education
of her children. Two months after the departure of her son Henri for
Russia--a separation which was heartbreaking to her--she took to her
bed, from which she never rose again. This was in 1844. M. Mouhot first
studied philology in his own country, intending to become a teacher;
but before long a strong leaning for the natural sciences, easy to
be understood in the country of Cuvier and of Laurillard, gave a new
direction to his mind; and this, with his ardent desire to see other
countries, determined his vocation. His first profession enabled him
to extend his researches, and while he perfected himself in science
he continued to follow the arduous and thorny path of the professor.
Having a thorough knowledge of his own language, and being a good Greek
scholar, it was not difficult for him to acquire with facility both
Russian and Polish during his stay in that vast northern empire, which
he traversed from St. Petersburgh to Sebastopol, and from Warsaw to
Moscow.
He began as a teacher, but soon became an artist, after the discovery
of Daguerre, which impressed him strongly; he mastered its mechanical
parts, and determined to carry the new invention into foreign lands.
This afforded to him the means of an existence conformable to his
wishes. He soon made affectionate friends in the highest classes of
society in Russia; took out his professor’s diploma there, and in that
capacity was admitted into several establishments, both public and
private; among others, to that of the cadets of Voronége, &c. Devoting
himself in his hours of leisure, and at night, to the cultivation of
the arts and sciences, and profiting by his visits to various towns and
departments of the empire, he constantly augmented his collection of
drawings and photographs, comprising landscapes illustrating different
parts of the country, portraits of distinguished men, specimens from
museums, and buildings in the semi-Byzantine style, equally interesting
to artists and to archæologists.
He scrupulously refrained from politics, and fully appreciated the
difficulty of governing a country so immense, and in which the manners,
religion, and language differ so much in its various parts; still he
felt deeply the condition of the serfs, a condition which Alexander
II., moved by generous sentiments, wishes now to reform. This state of
things made a painful impression on the heart of the young Frenchman,
and on his return to his own country he gave vent to his feelings in
a book called ‘Slavery in Russia;’ and in order to engage better the
attention of the reader he wove it into the form of a novel, in which
he was enabled to employ the resources of illustration, and to depict
the manners of the country. This work, however, which touched on many
of the leading questions of the day, was never published, and is only
mentioned here as an illustration of his generous feelings.
The war which broke out in the East induced him to leave Russia,
although, doubtless, owing to his numerous friends, he might safely
have awaited there the return of a time more propitious to the
cultivation of art and science; but his feelings as a Frenchman
revolted from this, and he also felt that the gravity of the events
about to take place would turn every mind from all but warlike subjects.
M. Mouhot, therefore, returned to France to his father and to a loved
brother, who became the companion of his new travels in Germany,
Belgium, and the north of Italy; and everywhere they laboured by means
of photography to make known the works of the great masters and the
beauties of the country, exercising their profession like real artists.
They afterwards resolved to visit Holland, where photography was less
widely known than in other countries. After staying there some time
they removed their establishment to England in 1856, the more willingly
as they had both married English ladies, relatives of Mungo Park, and
having friends willing to push on the two young men, who, full of
energy, possessed the qualities necessary for success in an artistic
or scientific career. During some ensuing years the two brothers
pursued their calling together, and shared each other’s pleasures
and cares; but Henri afterwards found in a peaceful life at Jersey
an opportunity of resuming his studies in Natural History, devoting
himself particularly to Ornithology and Conchology. These studies
revived in him the desire for foreign travel; and beautiful as was the
island where he lived--and where his time was divided between his home,
his books, and out-door pursuits--his thirst for knowledge made him
long for a wider field of research, and one less explored by modern
travellers. An English book on Siam came into his possession about
this time, as though sent by the hand of destiny, and to visit that
country became the object of his aspirations. The great Geographical
and Zoological Societies of London, capable of appreciating the man
of merit, approved of his project, and aided him efficaciously in its
prosecution; and M. H. Mouhot quitted his wife, brother, and all his
friends and every advantage of civilization, in order to visit, in the
cause of science, regions little known, but where, through much fatigue
and danger, the prospect of a glorious future opened itself before him.
He was already well prepared for the life; active, strong, and blessed
with an excellent constitution: his physical strength was beyond
the average--a result of the gymnastic sports in which he had taken
pleasure in his youth, and of his habitual sobriety. He had never had
an attack of fever, nor any other illness; and he resisted for four
years the effects of a tropical climate, incredible fatigue, bad food,
and nights passed in forests, without any apparent loss of health or
strength, which is doubtless to be attributed to his never taking
spirits, and wine only very sparingly.
His intellectual and moral qualities did not seem less to promise
success; both a _savant_ and an artist, he was also an indefatigable
hunter, and had a degree of kindness mingled with his courage which was
sure to gain the good-will of the uncivilized people among whom he had
to live. In all these respects M. Mouhot fulfilled the expectations of
the savans of England and of his numerous friends, as is evident by
the rich collections made by him in so short a time, by the cordial
welcome which he met with throughout his travels, by the respect paid
to him by all learned men, and by the unanimous feelings of regret at
his death, both in England and on the Continent. Although a Protestant,
he inspired sincere friendships among the Catholic missionaries in Siam
and the other countries he visited from 1858 to 1861, friendships which
are clearly shown in his journal and letters.
We shall not say much about his travels; they form the subject of this
work, which, even in its unfinished state, we trust will present much
important information to the geographer and archæologist, to the
naturalist and linguist. Many capable of judging have already hastened
to pay their tribute of praise to the traveller who has enriched such
various branches of science, and displayed to the world the riches of
the extreme East.
M. Mouhot dedicated the last four years of his life to exploring the
interior of Siam; he first travelled through that country, then through
Cambodia, and afterwards re-ascended the Mekong as far as the frontiers
of Laos; visited one of the savage and independent tribes inhabiting
the district between those two countries and Cochin China; then, after
having crossed the great lake Touli-Sap, he explored the provinces of
Ongcor and Battambong, where he discovered splendid ruins, especially
the Temple of Ongcor the Great, which is nearly perfect, and perhaps
unparalleled in the world.
Passing from the basin of the Mekong into that of the Menam, he saw
mountains of which the principal peak was more than 6000 feet high.
He returned occasionally to Bangkok, the capital of Siam, in order
to make preparations for fresh expeditions. The loss, by the wreck
of the _Sir James Brooke_, of a very valuable collection, did not
discourage him; but he set about at once to replace it. At the time of
his death, which happened on 10th November, 1861, he was _en route_
for the provinces south-west of China, when, having already penetrated
far into the interior, he was attacked by the jungle fever, and died
after twenty-two days’ illness. His energetic mind, full of the task he
had to perform, remained clear to the end, and a few last words were
written by him, his strength of will overcoming his weakness.
He set out for Louang-Prabang on 15th October, and on the 18th halted
at H---- (the name is unfinished in the manuscript); the next day he
felt the first symptoms of the fever to which he fell a victim. From
the 29th October he wrote nothing. The last words in the journal, “Have
pity on me, O my God,” show the religious principles which had guided
his life.
All that we know of his last days and his lamentable end, was learned
from his two native servants, who were strongly attached to him; and
through Sir R. Schomburgh, the English Consul at Bangkok, and Dr.
Campbell, Surgeon R.N., who was attached to the British consulate,
and who returned shortly afterwards to England, when he placed all
the papers, notes, and drawings left by M. Mouhot in the hands of his
widow and of M. Charles Mouhot, whose task it has been to arrange this
legacy as methodically as possible, considering the great difficulty of
finding the connecting links of his various descriptions.
The ‘Athenæum’ and the ‘Illustrated London News’[1] both inserted an
account of the death of M. H. Mouhot; and the latter journal justly
designated his death as another addition to the long list of martyrs
to science. It likewise gave a short sketch of the discoveries and
scientific services of this intrepid traveller.
[1] Number for August 9, 1862, which also contained a tolerably good
portrait of M. Mouhot.
Ornithology, entomology, and other branches of natural history, were
represented in the collection sent by M. Mouhot to his agent, Mr.
S. Stevens, of Bloomsbury Street, London, and were the subject of
several papers by Dr. Gray, Dr. Gunter, Dr. Louis Pfeiffer, and other
naturalists, members of the Zoological Society of London, and published
in the ‘Annals and Magazine of Natural History.’ At a meeting of the
Royal Geographical Society on the 10th of March, 1862, Sir R. Murchison
seized the occasion of reading some letters from the traveller relating
to the topography of Cambodia, to pay a tribute of gratitude to his
merit as a zoological collector and explorer. “His loss,” he observed,
“will be much felt by men of science, and a long time may elapse before
another man will be found bold enough to follow his steps in that
country of virgin forests and fever, and to the exploring of which he
sacrificed his home, his health, and his life.”
Mr. Stevens, in acquainting the brother of the traveller with the fact
of his having received a new zoological collection which had been
consigned to him, says, “I can truly say that the insects and shells
equal, if they do not surpass, any in the most beautiful collections I
have ever received, and show clearly what a marvellously rich country
for the naturalist lies between Siam and Cochin-China.” A splendid
_scarabæus_ was also sent to Mr. Stevens, who remarks, that “this
insect was described in the ‘Zoological Review’ of Paris under the name
of _Mouhotia gloriosa_, as a mark of respect to the late M. Mouhot, and
stated to be one of the most magnificent known.”
The Society of Montbéliard hastened, on the first news of his death,
to write to his brother, and the letter contains these words:--“His
work was left unfinished, but it was gloriously commenced, and his name
will not perish!”
Amidst all these eulogiums of a life, short but well spent, one of the
most touching is a letter from M. Marie Ch. Fontaine, missionary at
Saigon in Cochin-China, who was in Paris in August, 1862, and saw in a
newspaper the death of the man whom he had met in Siam and Cambodia,
which was soon confirmed by a letter from his brother. This worthy
missionary addressed to M. Charles Mouhot a letter, of which the whole
should be read; we only extract the following passage:--“I learned,
when on my mission, the death of my father, and then that of my mother.
I assure you that these two cruel blows scarcely made more impression
on me than the news of the death of a man whose equal I had not met
with during the twenty years that I have inhabited that country; and
to hear of his dying without any help, and having no one near him but
his servants throughout his illness, in a country so barbarous, was
more than sufficient to make tears flow at the memory of this good and
benevolent friend. Be assured, my dear Sir, that my sentiments are
shared by all here who knew M. Mouhot. The natives themselves must have
felt regret at his loss, for all whom he came near praised him for his
behaviour towards them, and his gentleness and generosity; qualities
invaluable in the eyes of that people.”
In a letter recently addressed by Sir R. Schomburgh to M. C. Mouhot,
enclosing the portraits of the King and Queen of Siam, that gentleman
thus expresses himself:--“I admired the zeal and knowledge of your
late brother; and his manners were so amiable and modest that one
would have thought that every one with whom he came in contact would
have exercised all their influence to assist him in his plans. I often
regretted that he was not an English subject, that I might have been
able to do more for him. I shall look impatiently for the publication
of his book, and have given orders that the French edition may be
forwarded to me at once.”
I can add nothing to these touching testimonies, which paint faithfully
the man as I knew him in Holland. The affectionate heart of Henri
Mouhot awakened in others an affection which the tomb does not destroy,
but which grows stronger with time.
J. J. BELINFANTE.
_The Hague, December 15, 1862._
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
PAGE
DEDICATION 7
PREFACE 11
MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR 19
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SIAM; AND OF BANGKOK, ITS
CAPITAL--RECEPTION IN THE PALACE--THE TWO KINGS OF SIAM 37
CHAPTER II.
GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF THE KINGDOM OF SIAM 54
CHAPTER III.
VOYAGE UP THE MENAM TO AYUTHIA THE ANCIENT CAPITAL--THE
RUINS--EXCURSION TO MOUNT PHRABAT--ITS TEMPLE--ITS SACRED AND
GEOLOGICAL FOOTSTEPS--SARABURI AND PATAVI 106
CHAPTER IV.
CHANTABOUN--ITS PRODUCTS AND COMMERCE--APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--
THE ISLES OF KO-MAN--ISLES OF PATATES--THE ISLAND OF KO-KRAM--PAKNAM
VEN--MANNER IN WHICH THE APES PLAY WITH THE CROCODILES 141
CHAPTER V.
LIFE IN THE HILL-COUNTRY--MOUNT SABAT--HUNTING--TIGERS--SERPENTS--
RICH VEGETATION OF CHANTABURI 155
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN TO CHANTABOUN--EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG--THE ISLANDS OF
KOH KONG--ISLAND OF PHU QUOC--BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT IN THE GULF OF
KOMPUT--CAMBODIA--COMMERCE OF THESE COUNTRIES--MISERABLE STATE
OF THE PEOPLE--VISIT TO THE KING OF CAMBODIA 174
CHAPTER VII.
DETAILS RESPECTING CAMBODIA--UDONG, ITS PRESENT
CAPITAL--INTERVIEWS WITH THE SECOND KING 192
CHAPTER VIII.
DEPARTURE FROM UDONG--TRAIN OF ELEPHANTS--PINHALU--KIND
TREATMENT BY THE MISSIONARIES--THE GREAT LAKE OF
CAMBODIA--TOULI-SAP--THE THIÂMES--SPECULATIONS AS TO THEIR
ORIGIN--ANCIENT KINGDOM OF TSIAMPA--ISRAELITE TRADITIONS OF THE
THIÂMES OR TSIAMPOIS 213
CHAPTER IX.
THE GREAT BAZAAR OF CAMBODIA, PENOM-PEUH--THE RIVER MÉKON--THE
ISLAND KO-SUTIN--PEMPTIÉLAN--PUMP-KA-DAYE, ON THE BORDERS
OF CAMBODIA--SOME FURTHER NOTES ON THE COUNTRY--FATHER
GUILLOUX--JOURNEY TO BRELUM AND THE NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY
INHABITED BY THE SAVAGE STIENS 226
CHAPTER X.
SOJOURN OF THREE MONTHS AMONG THE SAVAGE STIENS--MANNERS OF THIS
TRIBE--PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTRY--FAUNA--MANNERS OF THE ANNAMITES 240
CHAPTER XI.
RETURN TO PINHALU AND UDONG--THE GREAT LAKE TOULI-SAP--MEETING
WITH NINE ELEPHANTS--RECENT ACTS OF OPPRESSION TOWARDS THE
PEOPLE--ON THE EVENTUAL REGENERATION OF THE PEOPLE--THE PROVINCE
OF BATTAMBOURG--GRAND RUINS 265
CHAPTER XII.
DESCRIPTION OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR--OBSERVATIONS ON THESE
RUINS, AND ON OTHERS IN THE PROVINCES OF ONGCOR AND BATTAMBONG 278
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I.
PAGE
THE KING AND QUEEN OF SIAM _Frontispiece._
ONE OF THE SONS OF THE KING OF SIAM 10
PORTRAIT OF M. HENRI MOUHOT 18
THE RIVER MENAM 36
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM 39
GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK 43
THE SECOND KING OF SIAM 47
TWO OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF SIAM 51
PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 57
SIAMESE WOMEN _To face_ 60
PERFORATED ROCK IN THE ISLE OF EBOULON, GULF OF SIAM 63
RUINS OF A TEMPLE AND STATUE OF BUDDHA AT AYUTHIA 67
THE PAGODA OF AYUTHIA, FROM THE RIVER 71
VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL OF AYUTHIA 75
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 79
THE GREAT TOWER OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHING AT BANGKOK _To face_ 82
PRIEST’S HOUSE NEAR AYUTHIA 87
DETAILS OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHANG AT BANGKOK _To face_ 90
RUINS AT AYUTHIA 93
SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER _To face_ 98
SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER 101
INUNDATION OF THE MENAM 107
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 112
ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR “PARK” AT AYUTHIA _To face_ 114
ROCK AT THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT PHRABAT 117
RELICS FOUND ON MOUNT PHRABAT 119
PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT, WHERE IS PRESERVED THE
FOOTPRINT OF BUDDHA _To face_ 120
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF KORAT, TAKEN FROM PATAWI 123
A LAOTIAN 129
SIAMESE NURSE AND BABY 133
PORT OF CHANTABOUN _To face_ 136
THE LION ROCK AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE PORT OF CHANTABOUN 139
CHAPEL OF THE MISSION, CHANTABOUN 145
VIEW OF PAKNAM, ON THE MENAM 150
MONKEYS PLAYING WITH A CROCODILE _To face_ 152
SIAMESE ACTORS 170
VIEW OF BATTAMBONG _To face_ 174
LEECH-FISHERS ON THE ISLE OF SAMET 177
FAVOURITE WIFE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA 185
PORTRAIT OF THE SECOND KING OF CAMBODIA (NOW THE FIRST KING) 198
CAMBODIAN CART 200
A PAGE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA 207
A NATIVE ACTRESS 211
A SIAMESE OF THE LOWER CLASS 215
CHINESE MONUMENT AT BANGKOK 219
THE RIVER MEKON AT PENOM-PEUH 229
CAMBODIAN HUT AT PEMPTIELAN, ON THE MEKON 233
CAMBODIAN HOUSE 238
A SAVAGE STIEN 242
ANOTHER SAVAGE STIEN 244
SAVAGE STIENS SOWING RICE 247
AMAZON OF THE KING’S FEMALE GUARDS 257
SCENE IN THE JUNGLE BETWEEN BATTAMBONG AND BANGKOK 261
HALT OF THE CARAVAN IN THE JUNGLE BETWEEN BATTAMBONG AND BANGKOK 267
TOWER AT BANOME, NEAR BATTAMBONG 273
FAÇADE OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT _To face_ 279
STATUE OF THE LEPROUS KING 281
PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE OF THE GREAT TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT 284
TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT, NORTH SIDE 288
CARVINGS OF ARMS, UTENSILS, AND ORNAMENTS AT ONGCOR-WAT 292
PAVILION IN THE INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT 297
CENTRAL PORTICO OF THE GREAT TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT _To face_ 298
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
THE RIVER MENAM.]
TRAVELS IN INDO-CHINA, ETC.
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SIAM; AND OF BANGKOK, ITS
CAPITAL--RECEPTION IN THE PALACE--THE TWO KINGS OF SIAM.
On the 27th April, 1858, I embarked at London, in a sailing ship of
very modest pretensions, in order to put in execution my long-cherished
project of exploring the kingdoms of Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, and
visiting the tribes who occupy the banks of the great river Mekon.
I spare the reader the details of the voyage and of my life on board
ship, and shall merely state that there were annoyances in plenty, both
as regards the accommodation for the passengers and the conduct of the
captain, whose sobriety was more than doubtful.
SINGAPORE.
We arrived at Singapore on the 3rd September. The census, taken
in May, 1859, of the population of this beautiful and flourishing
settlement, gave the following results.--Total, 81,792, of whom only
450 were Europeans, and 1995 Eurasians, or of a mixed race, such as
Indo-English, Indo-Portuguese, and Indo-Dutch. The Chinese numbered
50,043, the Klings 11,735, and Malays 10,880; the women belonging
to these races being computed at no more than 3248, 963, and 3700
respectively. The remainder of the population was composed of Bengalese
1236, Burmese and Siamese 14, Bugese 916, Javanese 3408, and Arabs 117.
There are in the island 13 schools, 70 temples or pagodas, 13 hotels
and taverns, 26 pawnbrokers, 87 spirit-merchants, 144 houses licensed
for opium-smoking, and 11 houses for the sale of a peculiar spirit
unknown in France, but which is extracted from rice, and known under
the name of arrack. The fishing-boats number 750. Facilities for
locomotion and traffic are provided by 589 public carriages, 1180
passenger-boats, and 600 carts for the transport of merchandise.
In addition to the population of Singapore itself, the islands in the
immediate vicinity, and forming a part of the settlement, contain
1500 inhabitants, making the entire population of Singapore and its
dependencies nearly 83,000. I made only a short stay there, my chief
object being to gain information respecting the country I was about
to visit. On the 12th of the same month, after a very monotonous
voyage, we arrived at the mouth of the river Menam, on whose banks
Bangkok is built. A vast sandbank here bars the entrance of large
ships, and compels them to go eight or nine miles farther up the
gulf, and discharge their cargoes at great additional expense. Our
vessel, however, only drawing eight feet of water, passed without much
difficulty, and anchored at Paknam in front of the Governor’s house,
whither the captain and myself proceeded without loss of time, in order
to obtain the necessary permission to continue our route.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM.]
PAKNAM--THE MENAM.
This formality over, I hastened to visit the forts, which are of
brick and battlemented, the markets, and some of the streets. Paknam
is the Sebastopol or Cronstadt of the Kings of Siam; nevertheless, I
fancied that a European squadron could easily master it, and that the
commander, after breakfasting there, might dine the same day at Bangkok.
On a little island in the middle of the river rises a famous and rather
remarkable pagoda, containing, I was told, the bodies of their last
kings. The effect of this pyramidal structure reflected in the deep
and limpid water, with its background of tropical verdure, was most
striking. As for the town, all that I saw of it was disgustingly dirty.
The Menam deserves its beautiful name--Mother of Waters--for its depth
permits the largest vessels to coast along its banks without danger:
so closely, indeed, that the birds may be heard singing gaily in the
overhanging branches, and the hum of numberless insects enlivens the
deck by night and day. The whole effect is picturesque and beautiful.
Here and there houses are dotted about on either bank, and numerous
villages give variety to the distant landscape.
We met a great number of canoes managed with incredible dexterity
by men and women, and often even by children, who are here early
familiarised with the water. I saw the Governor’s children, almost
infants, throw themselves into the river, and swim and dive like
water-fowl. It was a curious and interesting sight, particularly from
the strong contrast between the little ones and the adults. Here, as
in the whole plain of Siam, which I afterwards visited, I met most
attractive children, tempting one to stop and caress them; but as they
grow older they rapidly lose all beauty, the habit of chewing the
betel-nut producing an unsightly blackening of the teeth and swelling
of the lips.
BANGKOK.
It is impossible to state the exact population of Bangkok, the census
of all Eastern countries being extremely imperfect. It is estimated,
however, at from three to four hundred thousand inhabitants. Owing to
its semi-aquatic site, we had reached the centre of the city while I
believed myself still in the country; I was only undeceived by the
sight of various European buildings, and the steamers which plough this
majestic river, whose margins are studded with floating houses and
shops.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK.]
Bangkok is the Venice of the East, and whether bent on business or
pleasure you must go by water. In place of the noise of carriages and
horses, nothing is heard but the dip of oars, the songs of sailors, or
the cries of the Cipayes (Siamese rowers). The river is the high street
and the boulevard, while the canals are the cross streets, along which
you glide, lying luxuriously at the bottom of your canoe.
We cast anchor in front of the cathedral of the French Mission and of
the modest palace of Monseigneur Pallegoix, the worthy archbishop,
who, for nearly thirty years, without any assistance but that of
missionaries as devoted as himself, has made the revered emblem of
Christianity and the name of France respected in these distant regions.
The sight of the Cross in foreign lands speaks to the heart like
meeting with an old friend; one feels comforted and no longer alone.
It is beautiful to see the devotion, self-denial, and courage of
these poor and pious missionaries; a blessing as they are, also, to
travellers, it would be ungrateful not to render them the gratitude
which is their just due.
FOREIGN MERCHANTS.
For some time past, particularly since the wars in China and
Cochin-China, Siam has been much talked of in Europe; and, relying on
the faith of treaties of peace and commerce, several French and English
houses of business have been established there. Unfortunately, there
was much deception on the part of the native authorities, which has
given rise to general and well-founded complaints from the merchants.
The fact is, that they have dangerous competitors in the mandarins and
even in the princes, who monopolise the greater part of the trade in
rice and sugar, their chief articles of commerce, which they despatch
in their junks and other vessels. Moreover, the people were not
prepared for the change which had taken place in the laws, and had
scarcely cultivated more than enough for home consumption; add to
this that the population is far from numerous, and, the Siamese being
an indolent race, most of the agriculture falls into the hands of the
Chinese, who flock to Singapore, Australia, and California.
The country certainly merits the reputation which it enjoys for beauty,
but it is especially in its mountain scenery that nature displays its
grandeur.
During a ten years’ residence in Russia I witnessed the frightful
effects of despotism and slavery. At Siam, results not less sad and
deplorable obtruded themselves on my notice; every inferior crouches
before a higher in rank; he receives his orders kneeling, or with some
other sign of abject submission and respect. The whole of society is in
a state of prostration.
PRESENTED TO THE KING OF SIAM.
I was making my preparations for departure on the 16th October, my
purpose being to penetrate into the north of the country and visit
Cambodia and the savage tribes belonging to it, when I received an
invitation from the King of Siam to be present at the great dinner
which this monarch gives every year, on his birthday, to the European
residents in Bangkok. I was presented by Monseigneur Pallegoix, and his
Majesty’s reception was kind and courteous. His costume consisted of a
pair of large trousers, a short brown jacket of some thin material, and
slippers; on his head he wore a little copper helmet like those worn by
the naval officers, and at his side a rich sabre.
Most of the Europeans in Bangkok were present at the dinner, and
enthusiastic toasts were drunk to the health of his Majesty, who,
instead of being seated, stood or walked round the table, chewing
betel and addressing some pleasant observation to each of his guests
in turn. The repast was served in a vast hall, from whence we could
see a platoon of the royal guard, with flags and drums, drawn up in
the courtyard. When I went to take leave of the King, he graciously
presented me with a little bag of green silk, containing some of
the gold and silver coin of the country,--a courtesy which was most
unexpected, and for which I expressed my gratitude.
KING SOMDEL PHRA.
This King, whose official title is Somdel Phra, Paramanda,
Maha-Mangkut--that is, His Majesty the King, encircled with the Great
Crown--was born on the 18th October, 1804, and mounted the throne
of Siam in the year 1851. The first part of his life was passed in
complete retirement in a monastery, in this following the example of
many of his predecessors: for all sects emanating from Buddhism think
it necessary that the rulers of nations should prepare themselves for
supreme power by a previous life of repose and sanctity.
ACQUIREMENTS OF THE KING.
It was only after the accession of Somdel Phra that the mastery he had
gained over the most difficult sciences became known. After having
applied himself to the history and geography of his country, he turned
to the study of astronomy, natural philosophy, politics, and philology.
He was familiar not only with all the dialects of Siam and Indo-China,
but also with ancient Sanscrit and English, in which latter language
he had written several treatises. The English journals at Hong-Kong
have been honoured by articles from his pen, and no one who reads them
can be surprised that the august contributor should have been elected
a member of the Asiatic Society in London, a body which reckons on its
list so many savans of the first rank.
His Majesty had also acquired a fair knowledge of Latin from the French
missionaries, especially from Archbishop Pallegoix, who has been
his friend for thirty years. He studied astronomy almost without a
master, and had gained such proficiency in that science as to be able
to calculate an eclipse and determine the latitude and longitude of a
place. He introduced a printing-press into his dominions, in which both
Siamese and Roman characters are used. His language testifies to his
education and intelligence, though it more resembles the phraseology of
books than that of ordinary conversation.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. H. Rousseau, from a Photograph.
TWO OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF SIAM.]
His predecessor had several hundred wives, and I believe the present
King does not possess fewer than some dozen; but he only bestowed the
title of queen on one, whose portrait hangs by the side of his own, and
whose death, soon after my visit, left him inconsolable.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph
THE SECOND KING OF SIAM.]
THE SECOND KING.
A singular institution, peculiar to Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, exists
in a second king, slightly inferior to the other, and having a sort
of reflected authority, the limits of which are not easily defined.
His official title is Wangna, a word which literally signifies “the
youngest King.” He has his court, his mandarins, and his little army,
and they pay him royal honours; but in reality he is merely the
first subject of his colleague. His sole prerogative is exemption from
the customary prostration before the King, instead of which he salutes
him by raising both hands in the air. It is true, he is allowed to draw
largely from the royal treasury, but never without an order from the
King, which, however, is rarely refused.
The present Wangna, Pin-Klau Chan You Hona, is the legitimate brother
of the First King and his intended successor. He is a perfect
gentleman, of a cultivated mind, writing and speaking English, and
leading in his palace--which is arranged and furnished in our Western
fashion--the life of a rich, noble, and learned European. He is fond of
books and scientific researches, and familiar with all the improvements
of modern civilization; he possesses in a higher degree than his
brother the capacity for government and statesmanship, and deplores
more than any one the sad condition in which his country languishes.
Before asking the reader to accompany me into the interior of Siam, it
will not be amiss, in the next chapter, to give a short sketch of the
kingdom itself and of its past history.