First Start in Search of Settlement--Character of the Jardine--
The Eliot--Return to Main Camp--Flooded State of River--
Impromptu Raft--Crossing Horses--Uncertainty--Second Start in
Search of Settlement--View of the Ocean--Reach South Shore of
Newcastle Bay--Reach Mouth of True Escape--Unable to Cross--A
Dainty Meal--Character of the Escape--Return to Main Camp--
Horses Knocked-up--Another Horse Dead--Flour Exhausted--
Wretched Condition of Horses--More Baggage Abandoned--Prospects
--The Whole Party Again Move Forward--Another Horse Abandoned--
Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf--Barne Island--Return up the
Jardine--Third Start in Search of Settlement--Wild Grape--
Crossing Saddles--a Disappointment--Head the Escape River--Meet
Friendly Natives--Natives Act as Pilots--Native Bread--Canoes
--Corroboree--Native Drums--Arrival at Somerset--Mr. Jardine's
Marked-tree Line--Meeting with their Father--A Heroine.
'January' 30.--This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and
the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest
of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton.
They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs.
meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to
follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was
accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment,
instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be
North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a
western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape
River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed
to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this
intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of
the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with
mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and
brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies
from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from
fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and
coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long
drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A
straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the
river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and
tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged,
therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings.
The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons.
The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain
commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on
camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad
pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for
the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W.
Distance following the river, 21 miles.
'January' 31.--Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the
camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river
through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground
was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more
numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a
species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain
which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise
several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was
stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the
same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which
was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot.
It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles,
before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately
accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their
necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their
heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They
then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of
which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main
stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the
Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no
choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps,
covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance
travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly
proving that they could not be on the Escape.
'February' 1.--The river was again followed for about seven miles
further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even
south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their
steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a
disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had
not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point,
therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp,
and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North
side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's
camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now
followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its
sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line
Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that
so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered.
Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the
banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A.
Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the
Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday
during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This,
together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the
spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of
either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or
complaint.
'February' 2.--The main camp was reached this morning early, and
everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that
deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine
found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of
the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and
all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded;
"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to
know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think,
that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where
the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the
good conduct of each individual member, there should be found
individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the
common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of
each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not
singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for
himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one
instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists
point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills
would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more
than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man
has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor
Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the
partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered
from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that,
but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party
might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic
black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and
whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the
white man's for contempt.
'February' 3.--This day was spent by the Brothers with their
black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described
it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred
yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and
after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all
alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp.
This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the
party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they
had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and
what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last,
however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty
successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very
largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three
iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey ('Megapodius Tumulus'), and nine
turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the
day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous
days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume
and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing.
'February' 4.--The river being too high to cross, the start for the
Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of
the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing,
Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the
latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable
adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11
degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape
York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float
over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide
over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found
that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and
this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however,
a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose.
'February' 5.--The river having sunk considerably during the night,
the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of
rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one
hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and
vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore
strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being
as follows:--One of the party went in first with a line made fast
to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to
his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a
man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy
task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but
should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike
powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the
leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he
may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with
the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and
vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing
the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of
every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough
to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah,
and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers.
The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also
without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah)
camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and
cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was
uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the
belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the
observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant.
They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by
the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely
necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward,
his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in
uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was
becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour
nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell,
and getting very weak.
'February' 6.--The second start was made this morning, the Brothers
intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape.
Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white
sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large
deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was
so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut
their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the
country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being
rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of
impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine
sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed
ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a
saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a
few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for
the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range
was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two
miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from
thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the
range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from
which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath
them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the
coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek,
with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons
flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles.
'February' 7.--The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a
creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to
cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay
over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After
travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream
three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W.
Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense
mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of
rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the
veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing
it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so
large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned
on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before
reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme.
The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his
present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their
journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was
arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of
which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was
now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the
head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen,
was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of
the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions
in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs,
and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth,
succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the
horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the
heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way
through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside,
three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then
walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This
however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly
three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which
it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night
was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub
turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been
appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to
tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef.
Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted
the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and
night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the
march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in
fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor
brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep.
Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties.
'February' 8.--The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the
course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The
horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were
therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country
traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not
get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts.
Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without
success, from the great width and the density of the belt of
mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which
they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening
they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana,
and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper.
'February' 9.--The course of the river to-day was even more crooked
than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save
that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of
bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a
fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount
Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the
course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of
mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their
destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able
to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7
miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to
try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful,
getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were
unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt
water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the
tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards
wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they
could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river,
to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty
provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly
abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to
return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the
Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done
in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles
westerly.
'February' 10.--Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of
the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering
S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country,
through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The
remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly
grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub,
through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two
miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the
horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition,
having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides
cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles.
'February' 11.--The main camp was reached to-day, after another
fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to
that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was
sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen.
A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks
bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had
to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they
left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and
swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of
the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion.
'February' 12.--The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became
necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a
beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was
judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent
in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle
were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore
sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a
tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only
a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat,
therefore, had to be smoked under a covering.
'February' 13.--The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of
the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow
completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition,
that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement.
Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the
Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and
ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no
provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were
starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination
was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the
bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that
it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point
of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what
obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole
of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to
eat.
'February' 14.--A final start was made this morning from camp 82,
of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing
and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays
attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was
followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and
difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already
mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another
horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when
pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be
left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the
last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads
were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the
jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11
miles. (Camp LXXXIII.)
'February' 15.--A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were
accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of
the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them
had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady
Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty
saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek
running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first
trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.)
'February' 16.--The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp.
It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of
crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards
wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party
crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further,
making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV.
Nonda.)
'February' 17.--The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip
was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they
estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40
to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles
beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the
turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35
miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of
to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North
and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have
been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I
afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true
distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point
in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and
7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature
of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is
not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning,
generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing
to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst
the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so,
as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was
more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead
reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far
as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result
and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been
furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but
it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition,
or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on
leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the
end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek
running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went
fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught.
'February' 18.--A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared
off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the
camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it
like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles,
packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of
travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country
resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks,
flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running
parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the
river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were
elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished
for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was
Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they
reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of
Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started
without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped
at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many
delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of
the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with
great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp
LXXXVII. Bloodwood)
'February' 19.--To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting
up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys,
after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between
sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process,
there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in.
The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of
about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile.
The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds
The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds
The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds
'February' 20.--It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning,
and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned
to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was
continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a
stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide,
flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as
the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of
mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the
camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp
LXXXVIII.)
'February' 21.--This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with
them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked
to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting
the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine
ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that
finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity
of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles
distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course
could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it
debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was
easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour
Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was
now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the
Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It
received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by
the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and
is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch,
after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the
different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at
once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross
where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party,
reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain.
'February' 22.--Although it was raining heavily with every
appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river
in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should
have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip.
They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream
as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their
steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles.
'February' 23.--To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast,
and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the
Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise
very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be
constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making
the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much
impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah
had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the
important business of crossing the next morning.
'February' 24.--The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed
in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the
horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small
spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained
on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong
swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white
men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the
black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient
in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most
white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter
has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same
conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is
superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The
rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold
cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires,
where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a
decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla
podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head,
and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock
repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that
its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart
of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records
some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In
McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous"
black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock,
horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and
seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can
always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance,
the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles,
pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when
clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more
aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against
cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence,
which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally
anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the
Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report
and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton.
'February' 25.--There was an early start this morning, but the
little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles
of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a
sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which
could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some
fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the
narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where
the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still
half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel.
They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the
flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still
continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time
they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out,
they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with
what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting
for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former
they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of
wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and
sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but
they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of
the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was
slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it
on the morrow.
'February' 28.--This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing
that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but
not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the
stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The
horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles
on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a
different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of
flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to
the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of
invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the
branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other
end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own
gravity, and was safely crossed. Their 'impedimenta' were thus
safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying
about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for
immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into
good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued
throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad
tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah
experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just
before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh
turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he
eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine
haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in
a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His
disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and
deep, on finding that he had been anticipated--the big mound was
the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a
little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where
the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's
anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves
afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the
evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper
(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he
was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top
of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when
climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a
fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which
they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of
finding that they had at last headed the Escape River.
'March' 1.--"A nasty wet morning." The trio started early,
thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or
other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their
thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that
they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After
travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which,
however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the
other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect")
during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding
over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of
blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it
abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their
carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for
they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As
hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show
of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were
surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the
scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and
holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing
and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they
said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin
yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they
distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco,
Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now
evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted
with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The
blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to
Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough
inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could
have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most
intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that
they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This
they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most
intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started
forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In
about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that
empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met
with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many
signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs,
which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of
peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some
dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into
a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to
the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their
hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for
they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust
them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide
being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was
reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made
friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about
two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large
canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet
long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large
tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made
much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped
separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent
it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in
anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they
held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din,
in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this
kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in
barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently
visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood
scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered
with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When
this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a
music results which seems to please him in proportion to its
intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices,
they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar
b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by
"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to
their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the
corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must
have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several
lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars,
and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves,
whilst waiting for daylight.
'March' 2.--At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a
strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the
greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far,
no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker,"
which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they
had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They
explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub,
and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the
horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the
rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest
amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by
Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have
had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it
was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and
abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and
involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant
buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled
to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when
they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which
had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the
door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland
party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the
success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable
arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the
"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd,
unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision
was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate
their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than
ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and
scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York
peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a
south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running
east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast,
a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of
the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with
instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and
west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading
into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they
overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far
obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if
sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be
induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the
success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons,
well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and
fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that
whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he
would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the
party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only
their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him.
Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with
patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd
of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house,
during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting,
and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place.
Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack,
(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,)
he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed
out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of
seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their
sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the
Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his
sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their
names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape
York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver)
the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met
the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably
prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks
set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko,
Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he
(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at
the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it
was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to
greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a
father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by
whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers
had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make
their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered
with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide
mocassins. The rest of their costume was 'a l'ecossaise,' their
pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs
having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However,
they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During
the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives,
an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The
attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald
Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a
new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the
tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined
also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her
mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her
away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned
the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting
was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had
been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress
from durance.
It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the
swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the
hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten
months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the
Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose
difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been
parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of
exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and
Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as
heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names
to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were
living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought
their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which
is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks
to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it
is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for
themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian
Exploration.