Leave the Staaten--Half the horses away--Fresh troubles--Mule
Lost--Sambo knocked up--Search for mule--Perplexity--
"Lucifer" goes mad--Final attempt to recover him--Marine Plains
--Search for Deceiver--Found dead--Salt Lagoon--Arbor Creek--
Country improves--Good Camp--Eulah Creek--The Brothers attacked
--Reach the Mitchell--Cow poisoned--Battle of the Mitchell--An
ambush--Extent of flooded Country--Reach head of tide--Heavy
rain--A "Blank run"--Leave the Mitchell--Good Coast Country--
Balourgah Creek--Blue grass--Banksia--The Eugenia--Green Ant
--Hearsey Creek--Holroyd--Creek Dunsmuir Creek--Thalia Creek
--Black boy chased by natives--Another encounter--Cattle
scattered by thunder-storm--Rainy Season--Macleod Creek--
Kendall Creek.
'December' 5.--Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the
party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the
sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was
over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably
grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along
the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles:
but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least
40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well
grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water
was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a
small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was
procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This
is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes
with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp
XXXVII.)
'December' 6.--The satisfaction of the party in getting away from
the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to
receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done
with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a
worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined.
It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been
found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but
this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at
day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to
stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were
relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them.
The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half
after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no
Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the
packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney
here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed
the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started
again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of
more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At
about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which
they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found
six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp
on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went
down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses
laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw
no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the
restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying,
in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now
annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end.
'December' 7.--Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the
water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the
river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have
turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success.
Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two
o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited
them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the
pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack.
Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away
unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to
start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not
yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only
rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole
day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water.
The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney
were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the
missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In
the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not
having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his
absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious.
When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he
had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been
galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when
he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the
result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less
importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused
him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never
returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed
until he learned that all was well--a harassing feeling, which few
but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and
success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at
this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great
God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one
they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest,
having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were
surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and
allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very
brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45
seconds.
'December' 8.--At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started
with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party
employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope
of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for
the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours
without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering
almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was
again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles
ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other
hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the
Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it
could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course,
if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have
got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he
"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless
Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for
the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small
creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below
the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two,
and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them
"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and
immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His
tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night
closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal
had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water.
'December' 9.--On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine
met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast,
but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to
continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the
provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover
"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they
left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river
and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard
gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all
to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to
abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the
camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party
of the main camp.
'December' 10.--The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being
Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one
more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he
travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six
miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so
large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing
between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex
"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles
from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the
salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for
15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after
having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of
the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding
any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to
find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine
Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question
of the coast-line route.
'December' 11.--At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to
Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run
them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on
the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here
they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two
days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything
would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to
catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within
thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he
caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately
jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no
purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him,
and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine
spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit
on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from
the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to
help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but
without the mule.
'December' 12.--Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the
time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13
miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat.
It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of
the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without
wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other
horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His
tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some
distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had
evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned
homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had
been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the
party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the
mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his
carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles
that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they
had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained
of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire,
and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other
was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel,
weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and
a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the
most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many
times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th
camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a
tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the
mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but
as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that
his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule
being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful
that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more
necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting
ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson
fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of
6 degrees in his plotting.
'December' 13.--The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the
creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for
a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what
he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back
therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8
miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not
drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally
supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of
blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile
up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long
and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock,
was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A
fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six
whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day
alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face,"
('Misembrianthemum Iriangularis'), and crusted with salt, and low
undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful,
large flocks of native companions ('Gurus Antigen,') stalked over the
marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a
flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous,
whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl
common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose,
plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a
small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white
throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38
seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in
square on the other.
'December' 14.--To-day the party started north-east, the Leader
wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide.
Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the
precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a
small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it.
The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence
outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with
low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and
acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the
start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered
creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the
screw-palm ('Pandanus Spirilas.') The soil of the box flats was a
stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week
from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the
mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15
degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds.
'December' 15.--The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that
the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and
the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they
travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills,
melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the
course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber,
presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed
along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a
distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from
the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken
sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested
the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay
over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country
beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called
plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry,
were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih.
The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and
grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's
acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards
the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party
having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water,
sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the
welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so
saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles.
It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded
by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water,
which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable
to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in
honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.)
'December' 16.--Between two and three miles of travelling over
flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the
party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W.
At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs
on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to
camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an
ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a
crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to
avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and
brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning
them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over
the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle.
They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives,
having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and
tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers
determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the
party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one.
The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but
seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better
of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river,
leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the
cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In
this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the
explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their
superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the
afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After
crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks
on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box,
and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted
together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy
bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide,
but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered
with vine scrub, and lined with plum ('Owenia,') chestnut
('Castanopermum,') nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha
or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and
many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some
gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted
vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the
largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the
smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This
stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the
two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles
higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is
described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured
as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were
caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles.
'December' 17.--After some little trouble the cattle were crossed
over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub.
At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and
camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a
Leichhardt-tree flat ('Nauclea Leichhardtii.') The country was the
same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died
from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's
eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were
swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon ('Carpophaga
Luctuosa,') was here met with for the first time on the trip, and
attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a
handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure
white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers
black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a
delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp
XLIII.)
'December' 18.--The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles
through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs
to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30
yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp
for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing.
The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the
pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another
mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water,
that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in
search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It
continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This
day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had
yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name
of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream
before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah,
taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe
crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of
blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on
their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles
of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they
were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp,
determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This
was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and
re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast.
These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were
thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers,
and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which
brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became
general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by
accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a
heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured
volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and
wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their
spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About
thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand,
and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and
probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged.
On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which
nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives,
probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the
water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and
as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of
his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it
alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the
travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many
narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good
fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was
levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet,
causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a
few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully.
There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a
scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of
Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and
on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the
report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will
long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course
N.N.W. Distance 7 miles.
'December' 19.--The horses had to be watched last night, for the
grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but
kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles.
The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks
from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass,
dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and
rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running
water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone,
from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of
yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten
miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a
small gully.
Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have
been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5
seconds.
'December' 20.--The river was still followed down to-day, the party
keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and
ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards
wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was
cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles
further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the
river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt
for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over
was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood
marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell
during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and
blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The
total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.)
'December' 21.--The rain of last night continuing through the
morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed
another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the
eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a
mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing
only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out
occasionally above the surface. The river was here a
quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the
pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting
up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on
one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open
ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the
crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at
sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of
them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for
screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four
black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to
say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now
a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature
warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time
closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the
fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on
them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a
spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all
their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub,
when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to
recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their
"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as
they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W.
'December' 22.--The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine
determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The
first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box
flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that
had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there
was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was
over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree,
mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and
pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the
first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass,
although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort
of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with
seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the
evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first
they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill,
and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15
miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds.
'December' 23.--All hands were up almost the whole of last night,
some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting
up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold
bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being
like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so
each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started
away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking
the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a
rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of
wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground,
clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the
camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this
flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls.
The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a
blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a
creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses
and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back
for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed
to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N.
(Camp XLIX.)
'December' 24.--The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the
creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country
continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7
miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where,
by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had
had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance
7 miles. Course N.N.W.
'December' 25.--The rain came down all last night, and continuing
throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest
a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the
compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly
improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were
passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and
half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly
watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas
Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle,
he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was
seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is
Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15
miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky
creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been
seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and
though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over
it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent
on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The
timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that
have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which
was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was
quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white
bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in
shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent
white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid
taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They
were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs
being covered with them, in riding along they got about their
persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are
of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky.
On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt
that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been
much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W.
'December' 26,--The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for
about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save
that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the
stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better,
though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was
pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards
wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine
fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the
name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey
Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their
appearance. (Camp LII.)
'December' 27.--The course to-day lay over similar country, a little
to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained
in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the
horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.)
'December' 18.--At five miles from starting this morning, the
thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy
creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed.
It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was
crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of
Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly
timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more
brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up
a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was
pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish.
It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping,
whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and
otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy
that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great
excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the
morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the
party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines
from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed
themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which
reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a
revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the
horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were
scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the
whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards
of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with
Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire
of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms,
or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or
run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their
gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of
them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence
accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off
the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The
thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the
watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were
let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north.
'December' 29.--The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10,
for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then
follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night
without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree
flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running
creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up
for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further
brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the
recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green
feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader
determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle,
but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six
feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level
waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in.
Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.)
'December' 30.--The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and
Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward
a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not
succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond
doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting
discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name
of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current
running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between
two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and
spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were
very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole
camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at
dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was
determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to
have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they
experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's
journal:--"We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this
evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks,
and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling,
beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof
would have called it 'grand,' but we rhymed it with a very different
word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties."
'December' 31.--Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock
this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed
by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through
very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and
bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the
eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend
of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks,
on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles,
and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner
as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were
caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were
a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the
heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance
travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the
track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and
thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.)