Produced by Amy Zelmer
[Errors in the original have been preserved
and noted at the end of this etext.]
[Plate: F. & A. JARDINE. Black and white photograph.]
NARRATIVE
OF THE
OVERLAND EXPEDITION
OF
THE MESSRS. JARDINE,
FROM
ROCKHAMPTON TO CAPE YORK,
NORTHERN QUEENSLAND.
COMPILED FROM THE JOURNALS OF THE BROTHERS, AND EDITED
BY FREDERICK J. BYERLEY,
(ENGINEER OF ROADS, NORTHERN DIVISION OF QUEENSLAND).
BRISBANE
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. W. BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER.
1867.
TO
SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART.,
CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc.,
AS ONE OF
OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED
COLONISTS.
THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED
WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY
THE EDITOR.
PREFACE.
THE Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such
rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives,
which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume.
Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York,
under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip
of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey
which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have
terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less
gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in
exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost
devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it,
its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public
attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been
attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would
have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question
hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into
the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but
their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has
also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather,
how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral
occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland,
and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the
Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat,
and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea
of less nourishing salt provision.
Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland
with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and
successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field"
that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless
country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with
their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed
them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their
food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some
of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further
delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be
again lost altogether--killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and
finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to
impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight,
and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned
off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added
to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and
determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but
for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the
Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the
whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the
life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all
probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black
tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom,
probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands
of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were
severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were
administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party
were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good
fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the
journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the
newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor
appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and
epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the
detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead
to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the
Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their
journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the
Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their
journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest
to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although
the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for
to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an
explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer,
cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the
journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not
scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all
exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from
their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty
of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not
only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but
also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various
interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of
their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient
to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a
gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the
Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and
plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are
interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and
the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that
there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing
to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking
scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be
supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them,
the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the
compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement
what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color
as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case
rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey
almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as
would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal
form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of
future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp,
and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a
work of record with the interest of a narrative.
It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been
allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication
of these pages. The causes of the delay are--first, the
indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their
modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing
about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to
compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them
public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose
official duties have prevented application to his task, save in
detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of
making arrangements for publication at a distance.
If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise
which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a
page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim
will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded.
The Hermitage, 'Rockhampton, December', 1866.
INTRODUCTION.
IN presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of
place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement
generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of
Queensland.
During the last six years the great question of the character of
Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the
unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been
set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less
memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search
Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made
it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements
of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and
adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt,
Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during
that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing
the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up.
It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made
known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have
been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its
exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which
have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and
devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the
North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a
continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich
pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf
Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities
likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been
known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are
forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the
subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and
sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be
safely left to private enterprise.
Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of
occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a
Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems
to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer
charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so
strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers
as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which
resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to
have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being
likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork.
The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally
condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was
selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the
colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John
McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general
opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in
search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality,
but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site
previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to
his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped
party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the
end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of
himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated
to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he
became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of
his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a
boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the
swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not
improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little
band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been
destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency
as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being
agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or
not of abandoning it.
Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and
Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr.
Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in
1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne,
Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to
occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the
visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay,
was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable
for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the
whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general
character, offers but little inducement for settlement.
[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned.
[NOTE--the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in
the text--there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear
whether the 'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at
Adam Bay or in Western Australia.]
The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay,
and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River,
were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the
western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more
than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be
doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that
direction.
Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on
her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit,
Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville,
Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and
Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but
that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of
South Australia must be 'stocked', if not settled, from the same
source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as
far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the
Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for
some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the
Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the
stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard,
whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their
surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of
determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The
Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the
seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in
constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four
different points, and by the construction of works on the worst
portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of
transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence
six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph
wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash
will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf
of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter
place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a
telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose.
Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two,
Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together
with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western
interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an
undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range,
which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be
abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too
good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in
area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port.
Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the
settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has
opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known
explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs,
and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels
now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services
will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers.
But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial
concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of
Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in
Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and
on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended
it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical
importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for
the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific.
The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon,
the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be
stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of
establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then
Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be
found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official,
a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in
addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and
experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties
incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements
for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff,
materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing
the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his
own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form
a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded
to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of
a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting
and recording their course and the appearance of the country
traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native
blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys.
Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to
Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were
sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr.
Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward
to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime
of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active,
and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an
instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la
Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and
eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out,
although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is
here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions
there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so
melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him
amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument,
which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living.
The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their
cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of
the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure,
but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by
misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind
consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of
Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its
sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this,
through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine
giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise
and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to
any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a
conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility
of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if
they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial
rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are
still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire
spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to
their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due,
that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the
public.
CHAPTER I.
Start from Rockhampton--Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih--
Newcastle Range--Pluto Creek--Canal Creek--Basaltic Plateau--
Warroul Creek--Parallel Creek--Galas Creek--Porphyry Islands--
Alligators' tracks--Bauhinia Plains--Discovers error as to River
Lynd--Return--The Nonda--Burdekin duck--Simon's Gap--
Arrival of the cattle--Preparation for final start.
On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle
to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine,
from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It
comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were
to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival
of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking
with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after
from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered
by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at
the end of June.
Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the
expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the
middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself
starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses
were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr.
Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of
pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F.
Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused
considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr.
William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the
Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward
with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs.
Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on
the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and
arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq.,
on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North
West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the
expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party
received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry
Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock.
After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A.
Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before
his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the
country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final
start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson,
with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of
September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old
Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took
advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr.
Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with
two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same
time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for
his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the
account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman.
The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was
supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known;
but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of
the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently
received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which
was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six
miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the
north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the
river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a
quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level
basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the
travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was
impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five
miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges,
brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range,
running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped,
having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the
south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high
range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range.
(Camp I.)
'September' 4.--Resuming their journey, the party passed through a
gap in the northern spur, described yesterday, about a
quarter-of-a-mile from the camp. From this gap a point of the range
on the south side was sighted, running into the river, and for this
they steered. At 4 miles a small lagoon was passed, 300 yards out
from the river, and a quarter-of-a-mile further on, a broad, shallow,
sandy creek(then dry), which was named "Pluto Creek." At 8 miles a
small rugged hill was passed on the left hand, and the point of the
range steered for reached at 9. At 12 a large well-watered creek was
crossed, and the party camped at the end of 18 miles on a similar
one. The general course N.N.W., and lay chiefly over very stony
ridges, close to the river banks. The timber was chiefly box,
iron-bark, and melaleuca, the latter growing in the shallow bed, in
which also large granite boulders frequently occurred. Though
shallow, it contained fine pools and reaches of water, in some of
which very fine fish were observed. Eighteen miles (Camp II.)
'September' 5.--After crossing the creek, on which they had camped,
at its junction, the party followed down a narrow river flat for four
miles, to where a large sandy creek joins it from the north. The
steepness of its banks and freedom from fallen timber, suggested the
name of "Canal Creek"--it is about 80 yards wide. Two miles
further down a small creek joins, and at 12 miles a high rocky hill
was reached. From this hill a bar of granite rock extends across the
river to a similar one on the south side. A fine view was obtained
from its summit showing them the course of the river. Up to this
point the course had been N.W. After passing through a gap,
immediately under and on the north of the rocky hill they were forced
by the river into a northerly course for two miles, at which they
crossed a spur of the range running into it, so rugged that they were
obliged to lead their horses. Beyond this they emerged on to a
basaltic plain, timbered with box and bloodwood, and so stony as to
render the walking very severe for the horses. The basalt continued
for the rest of the day. At about 18 miles a large creek was
crossed, running into an ana-branch. The banks of the river which
border the basaltic plain are very high and steep on both sides.
Running the ana-branch down for four miles, the camp was pitched,
after a tedious and fatiguing day's march. (Camp III.)
'September' 6.--The ana-branch camped on last night being found to
run parallel to the course of the river, received the name of
Parallel Creek. Its average width is about 150 yards, well watered,
and full of melaleucas and fallen timber. The country on its north
bank down to its junction with the river 20 miles from the junction
of Warroul Creek, is broken into ridges of quartz and sand-stone,
stony, and poorly grassed. That contained between its south bank and
the river, the greatest width of which is not more than three miles,
is a basaltic plateau, terminating in precipitous banks on the river,
averaging 50 feet in perpendicular height. To avoid the stones on
either side, there being no choice between the two, the party
travelled down the bed of Parallel Creek the whole day. At about 9
miles stringy bark appeared on the ridges of the north bank. Large
flocks of cockatoo parrots ('Nymphicus Nov. Holl.') were seen during
the day, and a "plant" of native spears was found. They were neatly
made, jagged at the head with wallaby bones, and intended for
throwing in the Wommerah or throwing stick. At the end of 20 miles
the party reached the junction of Parallel Creek with the river and
encamped. The general course was about N.W. (Camp IV.)
'September' 7.--The party was now happily clear of the basaltic
country, but the travelling was still none of the best, the first
nine miles of to-day's stage being over stony ridges of quartz and
iron-stone, interspersed with small, sandy, river flats. At this
distance a large creek of running water was crossed, and the camp
pitched at about two miles from its junction with the Einasleih. The
creek received the name of Galaa Creek, in allusion to the galaa or
rose cockatoo ('Cacatua Rosea'), large flocks of which were
frequently seen. The junction of Galaa Creek is remarkable for two
porphyritic rock islands, situated in the bed of the river, which is
here sandy, well watered, and about 300 yards wide. The grass was
very scarce, having been recently burned. The timber chiefly
iron-bark and box. Course N.W. 1/2 W., distance 10 miles (Camp V.)
'September' 8.--To-day the river was followed down over low broken
stony ranges, having their crests covered with "garrawan" scrub for 5
miles, when the party was gratified by an agreable change in the
features of the country. Instead of the alternative of broken
country, stony ridges, or basaltic plains they had toiled over for
nearly 80 miles, they now emerged on to fine open well-grassed river
flats, lightly timbered, and separated by small spurs of ridges
running into them. A chain of small lagoons was passed at 12 miles,
teeming with black duck, teal, wood duck, and pigmy geese, whilst
pigeons and other birds were frequent in the open timber, a sure
indication of good country. At 13 miles a small creek was crossed,
and another at 18, and after having made a good stage of 25 miles the
party again camped on the Einasleih. At this point it had increased
to a width of nearly a mile, the banks were low and sloping, and the
bed shallow and dry. It was still nevertheless, well watered, the
stream, as is not unusual in many of our northern rivers, continuing
to run under the surface of the sand, and requiring very slight
digging or even scratching, to be got at. The general course
throughout the day was about N.W.1/2W. (Camp VI.)
'September' 9.--The course down the river was resumed over similar
country to that of yesterday. Keeping at the back of some low
table-topped hills, at 5 miles the party struck a fine clear deep
lagoon, about two miles in from the river, of which it is the
overflow. A chain of small waterholes occurs at 12 miles, which were
covered with ducks and other water-fowl, whilst immense flocks of a
slate-colored pigeon were seen at intervals. They are about the same
size as the Bronzewing, and excessively wild.* The river, when again
struck, had resumed running. It was still sandy and full of the
graceful weeping melaleuca in the bed, where traces of alligators
were observed. The country traversed throughout the day was good,
but the small plains and flats were thought likely to be swampy in
wet weather. Another good stage of 26 miles was made, and the party
again camped on the river. The general course was due west. (Camp
VII.)
[footnote] * 'The Phaps Histrionica, or Harlequin Bronzewing.'
'September' 10.--Taking his course from the map he carried, shewing
the river running north-west, and depending on its correctness, Mr.
Jardine bore to the north-west for 15 miles, travelling over sandy
honey-combed rises, and low swampy plains, when he reached a
watershed to the north, which he then supposed must be the head of
Mitchell waters, finding himself misled by his map and that he had
left the river altogether, he turned south by west and did not reach
it before the end of 8 miles on that bearing, when the party camped
on a small ana-branch. The true course of the river would thus be
about W. by N. Total distance 23 miles. (Camp VIII.)
'September' 11.--This day's journey was over fine country. The
first course was N.W. for about 5 miles, to a large round shallow
lagoon, covered with quantities of wild fowl, and thence, following
the direction of the river into camp about 13 miles, over a
succession of large black soil plains covered with good grasses,
mixed herbs, and salt bush. The principal timber being bauhinia,
suggested the name of "Bauhinia Plains." Their width back from the
river extended to an average of six miles, when they were bounded by
low well-grassed iron-bark ridges. The river was broad and sandy,
running in two or three channels, and occasionally spreading into
long reaches. Large ana-branches, plentifully watered, left the main
channel running back from it from 1 to 3 miles. A great many fishing
weirs were observed in the channels of the river, from which it would
appear that the blacks live much, if not principally, on fish. They
were well and neatly constructed. (Camp IX.)
'September' 12.--Alexander Jardine, having now travelled 180 miles
from Carpentaria Downs, was convinced that the river he had traced
this distance could not be the Lynd of Leichhardt. The reasons which
forced this conclusion on him were three:--Firstly, the discription
of the country in no wise tallied. Secondly, the course of the river
differed. And thirdly, although he had travelled further to the west
than Leichhardt's junction of the Lynd and Mitchell, he had not even
been on Mitchell waters, the northern watershed he had been on, on
the 10th, being that of a small creek, doubling on itself, and
running into this river. Having thus set the matter at rest in his
own mind, he determined to re-trace his steps, and accordingly
started back this morning and camped at night at the shallow lagoon,
passed the day previous. On the way they shot several ducks and a
bustard. These are very numerous on the plains, but wild and
unapproachable, as they most frequently are in the north. At each
camp on his journey Mr. Jardine regularly marked a tree A.J. and the
number of the Camp.
'September' 13.--The party travelled back over Bauhinia Plains, and
camped on the river, near camp 8 of the outward journey. At night
they went fishing, and got a number of fine perch, and a small
spotted fish. Distance 24 miles.
'September' 14.--To-day the party saw blacks for the first time
since leaving Carpentaria Downs. They "rounded them up," and had a
parley, without hostility on either side, each being on the
defensive, and observing the other. They bore no distinctive
character, or apparent difference to the Rockhampton tribes, and were
armed with reed speers and wommerahs. For the first time also they
met with the ripe fruit of the Palinaria, the "Nonda" of Leichhardt.
The distance travelled was 27 miles, which brought them to the 7th
camp on the outward journey.
'September' 15.--Following up the course of the river, the 6th camp
was reached in 26 miles, where the feed was so good that Mr. Jardine
determined to halt for a day and recruit the horses. On the way they
again passed some natives who were fishing in a large lagoon, but
shewed no hostility. They had an opportunity of seeing their mode of
spearing the fish, in which they used a long heavy four-pronged
spear, barbed with kangaroo bones.
'September' 16.--Was spent in fishing and hunting, whilst the
horses luxuriated in the abundant feed. They caught some perch, and
a fine cod, not unlike the Murray cod in shape, but darker and
without scales. At night, there being a fine moonlight, they went
out to try and shoot opossums as an addition to the larder, but were
unsuccessful. They appeared to be very scarce.
'September' 17.--Resuming their journey, the party travelled 21
miles, to a spot about 4 miles below No. 5 camp, on Gaala Creek, and
turned out. Here they met with wild lucerne in great abundance, and
a great deal of mica and talc was observed in the river. During the
day Mr. Jardine shot a bustard, and some fish being again caught in
the evening, there was high feeding in camp at night. The bagging of
a bustard, or plain turkey as it is more commonly called, always
makes a red day for the kitchen. Its meat is tender and juicy, and
either roasted whole, dressed into steaks, or stewed into soup, makes
a grateful meal for a hungry traveller.
'September' 18.--Keeping out some distance from its banks to avoid
the stones and deep gullies, the party followed up the river to the
junction of Parallel Creek: this was traced, keeping along its bed
for the same reason, by which course only they were enabled to avoid
them. These, as before described, were very thickly strewn making
the journey tedious and severe on the horses, so that only 14 miles
were accomplished, when they camped on a large waterhole five miles
above the junction. The beautiful Burdekin duck ('Tadorna Radjah')
was met with, of which Mr. Jardine shot a couple.
'September' 19.--Still keeping along the bed of Parallel Creek, the
party travelled up its course. This they were constrained to do, in
consequence of the broken and stony banks and country on the east
side, whilst an abrupt wall of basalt prevented them leaving the bed
on the west. At 13 miles they camped for a couple of hours in the
middle of the day, on a large creek which received the name of
Warroul Creek, suggested by their finding two large "sugar bags" or
bees' nests on it, "Warroul" being the name for bee in the Wirotheree
or Wellington dialect. Warroul Creek runs into Parallel Creek from
the south-east, joining it about half-a-mile below where it leaves
the river, it being as before mentioned an ana-branch of the
Einasleih. Leaving Parallel and travelling up Warroul Creek, in 8
miles they reached the gap in the range 12 miles below camp No. 2.
This afterwards received the name of Simon's Gap, and the range it
occurs in, Jorgensen's Range, after Simon Jorgensen, Esq., of
Gracemere. Two miles, from the gap they struck a large round swamp
which had not been observed on the down journey, the party having
kept close to the river, from which it is distant two miles. This
was named "Cawana Swamp" There being good grass there, they camped.
Native companions ('Crus Australalasinus') and the more rare jabiru
('Myeteria Australis') were very numerous on it. Total distance 23
miles.
'September' 20.--To-day the party made the lagoon mentioned on the
4th inst., a distance of 27 miles, traversing nearly the same ground
already described and camped. They again saw a mob of blacks fishing
in the river, who, on seeing them, immediately decamped into the
ranges on the opposite side and disappeared. The next day, Mr.
Macdonald's station, Carpentaria Downs was reached in 17 miles, the
little party having travelled over nearly 360 miles of ground in 18
days. Mr. Jardine found all well at the main camp, but no sign of
his brother with the cattle; fifteen days passed before his arrival,
during which time Alexander Jardine plotted up the courses of his
journey down the Einasleih, and submitted the plan to Mr. Richardson,
without, however, shaking the gentleman's faith as to his position,
or that they were on Leichhardt's Lynd, preferring to dispute the
accuracy of the reckoning. It will be seen, however, that the
explorer was right, and the surveyor wrong. It being expedient that
the party should husband their rations for the journey until the
final start, Mr. Macdonald kindly supplied them with what was
necessary for their present wants, thus allowing them to keep their own
stores intact.
On the 6th of October, Frank Jardine made his appearance with the
cattle, a mob of about 250 head of bullocks and cows in good
condition. The ensuing three days were spent by the brothers in
shoeing the horses, a job of no little tedium and difficulty, they
being the only farriers of the party. There were 42 head to shoe,
many of which had never been shod before, and as the thermometer
stood at 100 degrees in the shade most of the day, their office was
no sinecure; they had at first some difficulty in getting a
sufficient heat, but after a little experimenting found a wood of
great value in that particular. This was the apple-gum, by using
which, they could if necessary get a white heat in the iron. At the
end of the third day the last horse was shod, and it only remained to
get the stores and gear together, and dispose them on the different
packs. This was done on the 10th, on the evening of which they were
ready for the final start. The party was thus composed: Frank
Lacelles Jardine, Leader; Alexander Jardine, Archibald J. Richardson,
Government Surveyor; C. Scrutton, R. N. Binney, A. Cowderoy, Eulah,
Peter, Sambo and Barney, black boys from the districts of Rockhampton
and Wide Bay; 41 picked horses and 1 mule, all in good order and
condition.
Their provision was calculated to last them 4 months, and was
distributed together with the tools, amunition, and camp necessaries
on 18 packs, averaging at the start about 150 lbs. each. It
consisted of 1200 lbs. flour, 3 cwt. sugar, 35 lbs. of tea, 40 lbs.
currants and raisins, 20 lbs. peas, 20 lbs. jams, salt, etc. The
black troopers were armed with the ordinary double-barrelled police
carbine, the whites carrying Terry's breech-loaders, and Tranter's
revolvers. They had very ample occasion to test the value and
efficiency of both these arms, which, in the hands of cool men, are
invaluable in conflict.
The personalities of the party were reduced to a minimum, and what
was supposed to be absolutely necessary, one pack (the mule's) being
devoted to odds and ends, or what are termed in bush parlance,
'manavlins'. Three light tents only were carried, more for
protecting the stores than for shelter for the party.
All were in excellent health, and good spirits, and eager to make a start.