THE LOCATION AND THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE APIARY
Where to put the hives is the first question, and this must be
determined by two or three conditions necessary for the health and
comfort of the bees. Hives should be placed where the sunshine may
reach them in the morning up to eight or nine o’clock, and in the
afternoon from three to four o’clock. An old orchard such as is kept
because of picturesque beauty rather than for its crop of apples is an
ideal place. The clean-culture orchards of the modern horticulturists
are undoubtedly more efficient as producers of apples and money; but
we are always grateful that there are still remaining many fine old
orchards, on sod ground where the trees, more or less gnarled and
twisted, are a joy to the artistic eye. Little wonder that such a place
is the ideal spot for the apiary; if the hives are grouped four or five
together beneath one tree, the requirements of shade will be met.
If there is no old orchard, what then? A young orchard will do, unless
clean culture is practised; in the latter case horses and cultivator
will not be permitted on the domain of the bee-people. If no orchard
offers, then a trellis of vines extending east and west, eight feet
high, may shade a few hives, and may be a thing of beauty in the garden
as well. Grape vines, hops, Virginia creeper, or any other rapidly
growing vines will do. To the one who loves his garden, there will be
many ways suggested whereby the hives may be placed to compass both
comfort for the bees and joy to the beholder. We started an apiary at
the north of the lilac trees, and made it a part of the lawn.
If no such happy position for natural shade is to be found for the
hives, then one must have recourse to artificial shade or double-walled
hives. A very good method of shading, much in vogue among the farmers
of our country, consists of a few boards placed awning-fashion above
the row of hives. This is not an attractive solution to the problem,
although perhaps it might be made so if this method were ever resorted
to by anyone with a sense of beauty; but usually it is limited to
a simple cover consisting of two or three boards nailed together,
slanting a little toward the back of the hives to shed rain, supported
by four posts, which hold it a foot or more above the row of hives.
In California instead of boards a thatched roof is made for this sort
of protection, and is ample enough to allow an aisle for the apiarist
between the rows of hives set back to back.
Many people use a single shade board, which consists of slats fastened
together by cleats made large enough to project a foot beyond the hive
on either side. This is placed directly on top of the hive, and has
to be weighted down with stones, and is therefore awkward to handle
when working with the bees. If the climate is hot, or in any case, a
double-walled cover to the hive is most excellent, since it affords a
chance for free circulation of air between the two boards which form
it. However, these double covers do not obviate the need of shade, and
natural shade is the most desirable sort.
In case the region is exposed to high winds, there should be a
windbreak around the apiary. Mr. Root, who is one of the greatest of
American bee-keepers, uses for this a row of hardy evergreens which
grow together into a solid hedge. In case a windbreak, either natural
or made, is impracticable, a board fence about eight or ten feet high,
built on two sides of the apiary, usually the north and west sides,
will be found to serve the purpose. This fence may be made the trellis
for vines.
In the rear of the village garden is an excellent place for bees. A
high board fence as a boundary, and perhaps a barn at the side will act
as a windbreak, while the fruit trees yield a grateful shade. We know
several such modest apiaries which are most attractive in appearance.
There are those who live in cities or towns who are filled with the
bee-keeper’s ambitions; and even they need not despair. There are on
record accounts of several small apiaries kept on the housetops of the
owners, who believe that roofs are for more than mere protection. Where
bees kept thus get their honey is a bee secret, but undoubtedly every
flower in the region yields them tribute. If bees be kept in town, they
must be placed on a roof or else a high fence must intervene between
the hives and the highway, so that the plane of bee flight shall be
set above the heads of horses and drivers; for these brave little
honeymakers have never been taught to turn to the right, and so they
often dispute the way with teams and usually come off victorious; and
this might make the bee-keeper unpopular in his community.
Another necessity in the apiary is that the grass in front of the
entrance to the hives be kept mown; otherwise many a heavily laden
bee will experience loss or injury among interfering grass blades. It
is not practicable, even if one were heroic enough to try it, to run
a lawn mower nearer than four or five inches from the hives, so many
bee-keepers place salt or coal ashes on the grass within this area. Mr.
Root goes so far as to advise the use of sheep as automatic lawn mowers
in the apiary, as nothing else can cut grass so short as does the
sheep. People say “as silly as a sheep,” but that is a silly saying,
for many people may learn something of value about the management of
bees from the sheep, which, when attacked by them, thrusts its head
philosophically into a bush where the bees cannot reach the tender
parts, and trusts to its wool to protect it elsewhere. As a matter of
experience, sheep kept in apiaries are rarely stung at all.
In our own apiary, where it was not practical to mow close to the
hives, we followed two methods: When we had many bees we placed a
rough board over the ground in the immediate front of the hive; when
we had only a few swarms, it was one of our joys to get on our knees
on cold days, when only a few adventurous workers were going into the
field, and with shears cut the grass close to the ground; and this
period spent on our knees was not penance, but joy. However, it might
well get to be penance in a large apiary.
Having found the place for the apiary, the next thought is of hive
stands. Many bee-keepers use a hive that has a combination bottom board
and hive stand; this has an inclined plane up which the loaded bees
may climb if they strike the ground. This is a device which also saves
the lives of many bees in cool weather, when they would scarcely be
able, through numbness, to reach the entrance of the hive otherwise.
However, there are other bee stands which hold two or three hives,
which are very comfortable in height for the work of the bee-keeper.
But it is always well to remember that the opening of a hive should be
low down, as it is easier for the weary wings to let the honey-weighted
bee down than to lift her up to the doorway. We use a simple platform,
with blocks under the corners, so that there may be circulation of air
beneath, and extending about a foot out in front of the hive, thus
serving as an alighting-board.
The arrangement of the hives in the apiary is a subject which will
pay for thought. When beginning, this is easy enough, as they may be
arranged almost any way, so long as shade and short grass are assured.
After the apiary grows they may be arranged in several convenient ways;
one is to have the lines of hives facing each other, thus making an
alley for the bees; while there is a safe passageway for the man in the
rear of the two rows.
When there are only a few hives, it is best to have the entrances
face the south. In fact, the entrance should never face northward in
a climate as cold as that of New York State. There is one thing to
bear in mind in arranging an apiary; make the groups under the trees
individual, so that the bees will have no tendency to become confused
as to the location of their own homes. If two face west, then let two
others face east, or perhaps a group of three face to the south, etc.
When it becomes necessary, for any reason, to change the location of
a colony, a board should be set against the hive, in front of its
entrance. The bees, meeting this obstruction as they emerge from the
hive, will fly about the hive for some time, and thus mark the new
location, to which they will return. If this precaution is not taken,
many bees will fly from the hive, directly into the field, without
noticing the change, and will then return to the old location and thus
be lost.
A honey-house near the apiary is a great convenience. If this is not
practicable, the next best arrangement is a honey-room in house,
cellar, or shed. Such a room is a necessity even in a small apiary.
This room should be well ventilated and screens should cover the
windows, and a swinging automatic screen protect the door; bee-escapes
should be placed in door and windows.
The room should contain workbench and tools; a table, chairs of varying
height, an oil-stove, and boxes or cupboards in which all of the apiary
supplies, implements, and machinery may be stored and kept ready for
use.
[Illustration:
_Photograph by Brown Brothers_
PLATE IV. Hives well shaded by a tree, but the grass ought to have been
cut long ago.]
[Illustration:
_Fig. 1_
_Fig. 2_
_Fig. 3_
_Fig. 4_
_Fig. 5_
PLATE V. _1._ Queen Bee, enlarged. _2._ Drone. _3._ Worker. _4._
Queen Cells. _5._ Miller’s Cage for Introducing Queens.]