Put one cupful of corn meal, one-half cupful of white flour and three

tablespoonfuls of powdered borax into a paper bag and shake the feathers

in this till clean, then remove and shake. This also cleans laces, etc.

Feathers are also cleaned by dipping in gasoline, rubbing the feathers

toward the tip, then shaking dry. This does not take out the curl. Never

use gasoline indoors.

TO CLEAN WHITE FEATHERS

Make a paste of flour and gasoline. Put the feather in it and rub

carefully the entire length, toward the tip. Repeat till clean. Rinse in

clear gasoline and shake dry.

TO CLEAN RIBBONS

“Wash ribbons” washed in warm soapy water, squeezed as dry as possible,

smoothed, placed on an ironing board and held down with a warm flat iron

in one hand while the other hand pulls the ribbon quickly under the iron

till it is dry, will be like new.

This is good for cleaning ribbons. Dip in lukewarm water, spread on a

table and scrub with a brush rubbed in Ivory soap. Rinse in clean warm

water and press between folds of thin cloth.

TO WASH DELICATE RIBBONS

Immerse in salt and water, and dissolve shavings of Ivory soap in

boiling water till like jelly when cooled slightly. To a little of this

jelly, add warm water to form a good suds, add a pinch of borax, put the

ribbon in and squeeze back and forth through the hands till clean. Then

rinse in warm, then in cold water, roll smoothly in a towel and in about

two hours, press between paper.

Gasoline is fine for cleaning ribbons. Do not use gasoline indoors.

Ribbons and silk may be scrubbed with Ivory soap and gasoline, rinsing

in clean gasoline.

TO STIFFEN RIBBONS

Put a teaspoonful of sugar in a cupful of water and rinse ribbons, and

when pressed between paper, they are like new.

TO CLEAN WHITE WINGS

Make a paste of naphtha and French chalk, letting it dry on the wings

and remain for a day, then brush.

Ordinary white wings may be scrubbed with a small scrubbing brush and

Ivory soap suds. Scrub in the direction the wings grow, rinse well and

while drying, brush frequently.

TO CURL OSTRICH FEATHERS

Sprinkle salt over hot coals, and shake the feathers over them.

Or place the plume in a warm oven for a few minutes.

TO COLOR FLOWERS

Squeeze a little oil paint of the desired color into a cup. Pour in a

little gasoline, and mix it with a stiff brush (about one-half inch in

width) with the paint. Add gasoline a little at a time till the right

shade is reached. Try a leaf in it, dipping in, then shaking dry. Drying

makes the color several shades lighter. Ribbons, laces, gloves, etc.,

may be tinted in this manner.

TO PREVENT SILK FROM CRACKING

Press with a hot iron.

TO CLEAN BLACK SILK

Brush black taffeta with a piece of velveteen, pin it smoothly to the

ironing board and sponge with one tablespoonful of ammonia in two quarts

of strong black coffee. Sponge both sides and rub dry with a clean soft

cloth. An old soft stocking makes a good sponging cloth. Equal parts of

ox gall and boiling water are also good for sponging black silk.

Another sponging liquid is one teaspoonful of ammonia in a cupful of

strong tea.

TO REMOVE BEESWAX FROM SILK

Put the spotted places between clean white blotting paper, and press

with a quite warm iron, changing the blotters as the wax is absorbed.

Grease spots are often removed in the same manner.

TO WASH PONGEE SILK

Wash in lukewarm Ivory soap suds, rinse in warm water, hang on the line

and let drip dry, and press on the wrong side without dampening. Pongee

sometimes shrinks when wet.

TO FRESHEN VELVET

Spread a cloth wrung from cold water on top of a not too hot range, or

over an inverted flat iron, spread the velvet over it and brush lightly

with a whisk broom. Velvet can be made to look like new.

TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN

To dry clean white satin, use dried bread crumbs finely sifted, mixed

with an equal quantity of pulverized blue. Spread over the satin, let

remain an hour or two, and brush off with a piece of soft clean linen.

If gold or silver trimmings are on the satin, use a piece of clean white

velveteen for brushing.

TO WASH WHITE SATIN

Use Ivory soap suds in lukewarm water, rinse in lukewarm water, and

press on the wrong side.

Silks, satins and velvets may often be cleaned by using gasoline and

corn meal, cleaning a small space at a time and rubbing with a soft

clean cloth. By adding little salt, the gasoline will never leave a mark

around edges.

TO CLEAN SILK GOWNS

Grate a large raw potato to each quart of soft water necessary to wash

the dress. Cover the potatoes well with cold water, let stand two days

without moving, pour off the clear water carefully into the tub or large

pail in which the dress is to be washed, and dip the pieces up and down

till clean. Do not wring, but hang out to drip nearly dry, when the

pieces should be laid flat and wiped on both sides, and pressed between

soft cloths or paper.

TO WASH LACES

Fine laces, handkerchiefs, doilies or trimmings, may be made like new by

soaking them in lukewarm Ivory soap suds for a couple of hours, changing

the water and repeating till clean. Squeeze them very gently, rinse in

several warm waters and while quite wet (do not squeeze), pat them

carefully in shape on a flat smooth surface to dry. Place them right

side up and they will look exactly like new, and it is very easy to

spread each tiny figure into shape when it is quite wet. A large piece

of marble or glass, the bottom of a large platter, or the bottom of a

flat porcelain bath tub is good to dry them on. Thin laces may be dried

on the window pane, but heavier lace will not stay on the glass. Lace

yokes are beautifully done in this manner.

TO DRY CLEAN LACES

Rub block magnesia or corn starch carefully into the lace, roll or fold

and lay away for several days, when the powder may be shaken out. If not

perfectly clean, repeat. Flat pieces of lace may be laid over a piece of

white paper that is covered with block magnesia, the lace itself also

well covered, another sheet of white paper laid on the lace and a heavy

flat weight, like a large book, placed on top and left to press the lace

for several days. Shake, or brush carefully with a soft brush.

TO CLEAN LACE YOKES

Sprinkle boric acid on a lace yoke, lay away for a couple of days, shake

well, and the yoke will be clean without removing it from the waist.

TO CLEAN LACE WAISTS

Put a delicate lace waist into a two quart glass jar filled with

gasoline with the top tightly screwed on, and let stand over night. Next

morning pour out a little of the gasoline, shake the jar thoroughly,

remove the waist, and shake carefully dry. If the gasoline is much

soiled, rinse in clean gasoline. And do not use gasoline indoors.

TO DRY CLEAN LACE WAISTS

Put a lace waist in a pillow case, cover thickly with corn meal and

flour mixed, leave for several days, take out of doors and shake well

but carefully in the bag. Then remove and shake free from the flour and

corn meal.

TO WASH LACE WAISTS

Shake the dust from a washable lace waist, immerse it in clean warm

water, with a tablespoonful of ammonia stirred in, then lay it in a wash

bowl, cover it with strong Ivory soap suds and set in the sun for three

hours. Do not rub, but dip up and down, rinse well in several warm

waters, starch if desired, and press on the wrong side, on a padded

ironing board.

TO COLOR LACES

Proceed in same manner as To Color Flowers.

TO CLEAN VEILS

Put the veil into a glass fruit jar, filled with wood alcohol, screw the

top tightly on, and leave for about ten minutes. Then pour out a little

of the alcohol, replace the top and shake the jar thoroughly. Squeeze

the veil carefully, and shake partly dry (out of doors), then pin over a

sheet on a bed or table, to dry in shape. Do not use alcohol near fire.

TO WASH VEILS

Dip the veil into a warm suds of Ivory soap, squeeze it carefully till

clean, rinse in several warm waters, and pin on a sheet on a bed or

table till partly dry, then press under a cloth with a warm iron.

TO FRESHEN BLACK VEILS

Stir a dessertspoonful of ammonia into a quart fruit jar nearly filled

with alcohol, put a black veil in, cover tightly, and shake thoroughly.

Remove from the jar, squeeze carefully, shake till nearly dry, pin on a

sheet on a bed or table, and leave till perfectly dry.

TO FRESHEN BLACK LACE

Spread the lace on a flat surface, brush carefully with a soft brush,

and shake out the dust. Mix in a saucepan one dessertspoonful of dry

tea, one pint of boiling water and one teaspoonful of gum arabic. Simmer

slowly, stirring till the gum is dissolved. Strain into a dish and soak

the lace in it for thirty minutes. If the lace is silk, add a

teaspoonful of alcohol to the solution. After soaking, squeeze the lace

carefully, then put it in folds of cloth and squeeze. Then smooth it in

shape, roll carefully in a dry cloth, let remain an hour and press over

paper on a padded ironing board, with a paper on top of the lace which

must be pressed on the wrong side.

TO STIFFEN LACE

Put a pinch of sugar in the last rinsing water.

TO CLEAN A BLACK WOOL GOWN

Sponge with ammonia and warm water, a tablespoonful of ammonia to a

quart of water. Rub powdered French chalk into the spots, leave for half

a day, cover the chalk with clean white blotting paper and set a warm

iron on it. Then sponge again with ammonia and water, and press

carefully under a cloth, on the wrong side where possible.

TO WASH A BLACK WOOL GOWN

Boil one ounce of soap bark solution in one quart of water. When

thoroughly steeped, strain, and add to two gallons of hot water. Put the

dress in this and dip up and down till clean. Rinse in warm water,

squeeze carefully, shake out doors and let drip partially dry. Shake

again, hang up again and when nearly dry, press carefully on the wrong

side.

TO CLEAN COVERT CLOTH

Mix six ounces of water, one ounce of sulphuric ether and one ounce of

ammonia. Sponge covert cloth with the mixture, then sponge with warm

water, cover with a damp cloth and press dry, pressing on the wrong side

where possible.

TO CLEAN SPOTS FROM CASHMERE

Make a paste of Fuller’s earth and cold water, and put on the spots and

leave for several hours, then brush.

TO CLEAN MACINTOSH COATS

Dissolve a handful of the best gray lime in half a pail of water, and

apply to the coat, with a sponge. Repeat, after three hours.

TO REMOVE GLOSS FROM CLOTHING

Rub carefully with fine emery cloth. After using emery cloth on very

smooth surfaces, rub carefully the way of the nap with a warm silk

handkerchief.

Sponging with hot vinegar is good for removing shine from woolen

garments.

Black wool may be sponged with borax and water, then with clear water,

to remove gloss.

TO DRY CLEAN WHITE CLOTH

Rub pipe clay into the soiled places, leave for a few hours, or a day or

two, then brush off the pipe clay with a small scrubbing brush kept for

the purpose.

TO CLEAN WHITE FUR CLOTH

Brush the cloth the way of the nap, shake, dip a clean sponge in alcohol

and wash thoroughly in the direction the nap goes. Have mixed one part

powdered borax and three parts powdered starch, and sprinkle on while

the cloth is wet, all it will hold. Leave in a clean place for three

days, then brush out all the starch.

TO WASH WHITE SWEATERS AND SHAWLS

Use a tablespoonful of Pearline to each pailful of warm water. Cover the

garment with this, press down with the hands to squeeze out the dirty

water. Let soak thirty minutes, pour off the water and repeat till

clean. Rinse in several clean warm waters, but do not lift from the tub

or bucket the garment is washed in. Take out of doors, pour off all the

water possible. Squeeze the garment into a bunch in the two hands and

dump quickly on a dry sheet on the grass in the hot sun. Spread the

garment in shape and let dry. It will be perfect. If the sun is not hot

enough to dry it on the grass, the garment may be spread on a sheet

stretched on quilting or curtain frames across boxes or chairs.

REMOVING STAINS

TO REMOVE BLOOD STAINS FROM COTTON

To remove blood stains from cotton, wet the spots with cold water,

sprinkle with salt and rub lightly.

Or soak the material in salt and water, afterwards washing in soap and

water.

A spot on a starched garment may be removed by applying a thick paste of

corn starch and cold water.

TO REMOVE BLOOD STAINS FROM SILK

Use strong cold borax water.

TO REMOVE CHOCOLATE AND COCOA STAINS

Wash first in cold, then pour boiling water through the stains.

TO REMOVE COFFEE STAINS

Spread the stained part over a basin, rub in powdered borax and pour

boiling water through, and let soak.

TO REMOVE FRUIT STAINS

Spread the stained part over a basin, and pour boiling water through,

let soak for thirty minutes and launder as usual. Let dry in the sun.

Another method is to moisten the spots with camphor before wetting with

water, then launder as usual.

TO REMOVE GRASS STAINS

Rub the stain with molasses, laundering as usual, afterward. Another way

is to saturate the spot with kerosene, and launder. Alcohol will remove

grass stains in materials that will not launder.

TO REMOVE CANDLE GREASE

Use gasoline on a soft cloth.

TO REMOVE AXLE GREASE

To remove axle grease on washable garments, cover thickly with butter,

let stand a few minutes, wash in gasoline, and then in soap and water.

Grease may be removed from overalls by putting them in cold water, with

plenty of soap, and as soon as the water boils, add about three

tablespoonfuls of kerosene and boil a few minutes. Do not pour kerosene

from a kerosene can near a fire, but pour it from a can into a dipper

away from fire, and then pour from the dipper quickly into the boiler.

Chloroform will remove grease from the most delicate fabrics, but it is

apt to leave a mark and for that reason, ether is more universally used.

French chalk put around the edge of a spot before cleaning with gasoline

on cloth, will prevent a mark from showing.

TO REMOVE INDELIBLE INK OR PENCIL MARKS

Dampen the spot with water, and rub with the head of a common match.

TO REMOVE INK STAINS

Cover the ink stain on any fabric with Hydrogen Peroxide, lay in the sun

and air, and repeat till the stain disappears.

Ink may be removed from wash goods by melting a piece of tallow, putting

the spot in the hot tallow and washing as usual. On colored garments

that will not wash, drop melted tallow and scrape off with a knife. If

the stain does not all come out, put a clean piece of blotting paper

over it, and press with a hot iron.

TO REMOVE INK FROM WOODEN FLOORS

Use lemon juice and salt, without soap.

TO REMOVE RED INK

Use ammonia and water.

TO REMOVE IODINE STAINS

Cover the stain on cloth as soon as possible with a paste of corn starch

and water. Change for fresh paste and repeat till stain disappears.

If the stain is on wood, apply the paste, let stand a few minutes, and

rub with a soft cloth.

TO REMOVE IRON RUST FROM WASH GOODS

Wet the spot with lemon juice, sprinkle with salt, and hold over boiling

water so the steam can go through. If very badly rusted, add three

tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar to three gallons of water, and boil

the stained garments in it for about one hour.

Another way is to boil pie plant in enough water to soak the dress,

remove the pie plant and soak the dress in the water for some time, then

wash as usual.

TO REMOVE LEMON JUICE STAINS

Mix one tablespoonful of ammonia in four tablespoonfuls of water, and

sponge lightly.

TO REMOVE MACHINE OIL

Apply kerosene to the spots, and launder as usual.

Cover an oil spot on silk with block magnesia shaved in fine powder.

Leave on for a time, shake off, and repeat if necessary.

TO REMOVE MILDEW

Cover the mildew on wash goods with molasses, then launder as usual.

Or soak the stains in buttermilk several hours, then wash.

TO REMOVE MILK STAINS

Wash first in cold, then hot water.

Apply absorbent cotton at once when milk is spilled on woolens.

Alcohol will remove milk on colored garments.

TO REMOVE MUD STAINS FROM CLOTH

Use water in which a sliced raw potato has soaked.

TO REMOVE PAINT

Rub turpentine thoroughly into the material. If the paint is very dry,

mix a little ammonia with the turpentine. Keep all cleaning fluids away

from fire.

Ether is also good for removing paint.

TO REMOVE PERSPIRATION STAINS

To remove perspiration stains from white waists, soak the stained part

in baking soda and cold water. Repeat, if necessary, after thirty

minutes.

For silk waists, sponge the spot carefully with a little cold water, and

cover with powdered prepared chalk. When thoroughly dry, brush carefully

with a soft brush.

To remove perspiration stains on white cotton from wearing black silk,

boil the garment in one-half gallon of water containing a handful of

peach leaves.

TO REMOVE SCORCH STAINS

Apply Peroxide of Hydrogen.

TO REMOVE TEA STAINS

Wash in cold, and then pour boiling water through the spot. Soak an

obstinate tea stain in glycerine.

TO REMOVE VARNISH STAINS

Saturate in gasoline, then wash in cold water with naphtha soap.

TO REMOVE VINEGAR STAINS

Mix one tablespoonful of ammonia in four tablespoonfuls of water and

sponge lightly.

TO REMOVE WINE STAINS

Moisten a red wine stain in cold water and keep covered with salt, and

the wet salt will absorb the stain.

Wash yellow wine stains in cold water, then in warm suds.

FURS

STORING FURS

Beat the furs well but carefully, out of doors and hang, if convenient,

on a line in the sun for an hour or more. Then lay in a box lined with

newspapers, putting paper between parts of the furs that must lap over

one another. Wrap the box in newspapers, putting a heavy express paper

over all, sticking all edges of this last paper with mucilage.

CLEANING BLACK LYNX

Clean it with a stiff brush dipped in a solution of ammonia and water.

TO CLEAN CHINCHILLA

Make a paste of prepared chalk and water, put on the fur with a wide

brush and let dry. Beat the fur lightly to remove the chalk.

If chinchilla fur gets wet, suspend it near heat, beating it lightly

every few minutes. Harder furs require stiff brushes to smooth them,

always stroking in the direction the fur lies.

If furs get wet, absorb all possible moisture by applying hot towels,

before hanging to dry.

TO CLEAN ERMINE

Smooth starch with water till like paste. Dip a piece of clean white

flannel in this paste, rub the furs well with it and leave near fire to

dry. Then brush it with a stiff brush, and shake thoroughly to remove

the flour.

TO CLEAN MINK

Brush thoroughly with dry corn meal.

TO CLEAN SEALSKIN

Spread sawdust over sealskin and spray benzine over the sawdust. When

nearly dry, brush off with a whisk broom, then brush so the hair stands

up, and let it air.

TO CLEAN WHITE FUR

Lay the fur flat on a table, take a clean white cloth and rub dampened

corn meal into the fur, always rubbing the way the fur lies. Rub

carefully till the fur is filled. Shake, and if not clean, repeat the

operation, using plenty of dry corn meal to dry it at the last.

White fur may be cleaned by rubbing in a paste of corn meal and

gasoline, repeating, if the fur is badly soiled. Shake well, and air.

Clean all things out of doors when using gasoline.

DISINFECTANTS, SCENTS, ETC.

Essence of cinnamon evaporating in a shallow dish is an agreeable

disinfectant.

A little charcoal mixed with water thrown in a sink will deodorize it.

A small piece of charcoal should be placed inside the refrigerator to

insure a sweet interior. It should also be placed in dark closets. Renew

every week or two.

Put a piece of camphor gum in a saucer and apply a hot poker.

Put a few pieces of dried orange peel on a hot stove, or in an old tin

can or shovel, and allow it to smoulder.

Broken pieces of pumice stone may be saturated with oil of lavender to

create a pleasant odor in a room. Or a few drops of the oil may be

dropped into a bowl of boiling water, letting it stand till cold.

Eau-de-cologne may be burned in an old iron spoon made red hot; or it

may be poured over block ammonia placed in an earthen jar.

A little oil of sandalwood dropped on a hot shovel will impart a

delightful fragrance to a room.

The odor of paint, and of tobacco smoke in a room may be dispelled by

setting a dish of cold water in the room.

A dish of ground roasted coffee is one of the best preservatives to

leave in cellar.

LIME WATER

Put a piece of unslacked lime the size of an egg in an earthen vessel,

pouring over it a quart of cold water. Allow it to stand a few hours,

then filter it through clean white blotting paper. Pour it into a clean

bottle, cork and keep in a cool dark place. A teaspoonful of lime water

in a cupful of milk or water, almost destroys any deleterious substance

there. It gives no unpleasant taste.

SCENTING LINENS

Underlinen is delightfully scented by placing broken orris root in the

bureau drawers and hanging in small muslin bags in the closets.

A few drops of any preferred scent put on broken pumice stone and

scattered through drawers and boxes, gives a delicious perfume.

Sachet powder mixed with powdered orris root in equal parts, preserves

the fragrance much longer than by using sachet powder alone.

Pack away bed linen with leaves of dried rosemary or sweet lavender.

COLOGNE

½ oz. bergamot

¼ oz. oil of lemon

½ oz. English lavender

½ drachm neroli

1 quart alcohol

FILLING A ROSE JAR No. 1

Gather rose leaves in June, pack in a covered stone jar with alternate

layers of salt, and keep in a dry cool place for a week after sufficient

leaves are packed. Then turn out on a paper spread on a table, and mix

very thoroughly. Add the following ingredients, mix well and put in the

jar for six weeks before filling the rose jars. Leave rose jars

uncovered for a short time only, as the perfume is easily exhausted.

½ oz. powdered violet

½ oz. powdered rose

½ oz. powdered heliotrope

1 oz. powdered orris root

4 drops oil of roses

10 drops oil of neroli

½ teaspoonful mace

½ teaspoonful cloves

¼ teaspoonful cinnamon

2 drachms pure alcohol

20 drops oil of eucalyptus

10 drops oil of bergamot

20 drops oil of lavender

FILLING ROSE JAR No. 2

Gather rose leaves in June and put a layer in a covered stone jar, then

add a layer of salt; spread thickly over this stick cinnamon and whole

cloves; pour over these a pint of alcohol, cover and allow to remain one

week, then mix and fill into rose jar.

PESTS OF VARIOUS KINDS

ANTS

¼ cupful water

1 teaspoonful sugar

1 teaspoonful tartar emetic

Mix and place where ants congregate.

Wash a large sponge, press dry, then sprinkle with fine sugar and place

where ants are thick. They will fill the sponge, which may be dropped in

boiling water, squeezed out, and placed ready for them again.

A small cloth saturated with oil of sassafras will cause ants to leave.

RED ANTS

Several ways of getting rid of red ants are good. Use whichever is

easiest for you in your locality.

The sponge remedy given for ants is good.

1 teaspoonful paregoric with one-fourth cupful water is effective when

sprinkled around.

Sugar well mixed with pulverized plaster of paris sprinkled about will

drive them away.

Sprigs of fresh parsley laid around food will cause ants to disappear.

RATS AND MICE

Put sprays of peppermint or peppermint essence where mice have been, and

they will not return.

Or stuff pieces of sponge in holes where they enter.

Sprinkle sulphur about house and barn where rats come in, and they will

be driven away.

To stuff the holes where they enter with soap sprinkled with cayenne

pepper, will keep them out.

FLIES

Mix one-half teaspoonful black pepper and one teaspoonful of sugar in

one teaspoonful cream and put on a plate, and flies will disappear.

Two teaspoonfuls formaldehyde in two cupfuls of water poured into

shallow dishes and set around tables where flies are troublesome, will

destroy them.

A little bit of sassafras on a small cloth laid in an old baking powder

or other can cover, will drive flies away.

Flies dislike mignonette, and they despise hop vines.

ROACHES

Cucumber peel scattered around the haunts of roaches and left over

night, gets rid of the bugs.

Mix a dough of corn meal and strong borax solution, shape into little

cakes and place on pantry shelves to feed roaches so they will refuse to

return.

A weak solution of turpentine might be poured down water pipes once a

week to keep water bugs away.

SPARROWS

A little molasses put on their roosting places causes them to leave.

MOTHS

Blotting paper saturated with turpentine placed where moths are apt to

work, will prevent their havoc.

Sassafras bark scattered among woolens and furs is a preventive of

moths.

Saturate an old sheet with formaldehyde and hang in the closet

containing moths, first stopping all possible cracks and keyhole, and

leaving there for a day.

The progress meatless cook book · 第 8 / 10 段