Through Lake Ontario to Montreal, by rail road to Lake Champlain, and
then by steamboat to Burlington.
Burlington is a pretty county town on the border of the Lake Champlain;
there is a large establishment for the education of boys kept here by
the Bishop of Vermont, a clever man: it is said to be well conducted,
and one of the best in the Union. The bishop's salary, as bishop, is
only five hundred dollars; as a preacher of the established church he
receives seven hundred; whilst as a schoolmaster his revenue becomes
very handsome. The bishop is just now in bad odour with the _majority_,
for having published some very sensible objections to the Revivals and
Temperance Societies.
Plattsburg.--This was the scene of an American triumph. I was talking
with a States officer, who was present during the whole affair, and was
much amused with his description of it. There appeared to be some
fatality attending almost all our attacks upon America during the last
war; and it should be remarked, that whenever the Americans entered upon
our territory, they met with similar defeat. Much allowance must at
course be made for ignorance of the country, and of the strength and
disposition of the enemy's force; but certainly there was no excuse for
the indecision shewn by the British general, with such a force as he had
under his command.
Now that the real facts are known, one hardly knows whether to laugh or
feel indignant. The person from whom I had the information is of
undoubted respectability. At the time that our general advanced with an
army of 7,000 Peninsular troops, there were but 1,000 militia at
Plattsburg, those ordered out from the interior of the State not having
arrived. It is true that there were 2,000 of the Vermont militia at
Burlington opposite to Plattsburg, but when they were sent for, they
refused to go there; they were alarmed at the preponderating force of
the British, and they stood upon their State rights--i.e., militia
raised in a State are not bound to leave it, being raised for the
defence of that State alone. The small force at Plattsburg hardly knew
whether to retreat or not; they expected large reinforcements under
General McCoomb, but did not know when they would come. At last it was
proposed and agreed to that they should spread themselves and keep up an
incessant firing, but out of distance, so as to make the British believe
they had a much larger force than they really possessed; and on this
judicious plan they acted, and succeeded.
In the mean time, the British general was anxious for the assistance of
the squadron on the lakes, under Commodore Downie, and pressed him to
the attack of the American squadron then off Plattsburg. Some sharp
remarks from the General proved fatal to our cause by water. Downie,
stung by his insinuations, rushed inconsiderately into a _close_
engagement. Now, Commodore Downie's vessels had all long guns.
McDonough's vessels had only carronades. Had, therefore, Downie not
thrown away this advantage, by engaging at close quarters, there is fair
reason to suppose that the victory would have been ours, as he could
have chosen his distance, and the fire of the American vessels would
have been comparatively harmless; but he ran down close to McDonough's
fleet, and engaged them broadside to broadside, and then the carronades
of the Americans, being of heavy calibre, threw the advantage on their
side. Downie was killed by the wind of a shot a few minutes after the
commencement of the action. Still it was the hardest contested action
of the war; Pring being well worthy to take Downie's place.
It was impossible to have done more on either side; and the gentleman
who gave me this information added, that McDonough told him that so
nicely balanced were the chances, that he took out his watch just before
the British colours were hauled down, and observed, "If they hold out
ten minutes more, it will be more than, I am afraid, we can do." As
soon as the victory was decided on the part of the Americans, the
British general commenced his retreat, and was followed by this handful
of militia. In a day or two afterwards, General McCoomb came up, and a
large force was poured in from all quarters.
There was something very similar and quite as ridiculous in the affair
at Sackett's harbour. Our forces advancing would have cut off some
hundreds of the American militia, who were _really_ retreating, but by a
road which led in such a direction as for a time to make the English
commandant suppose that they were intending to take him in flank. This
made him imagine that they must be advancing in large numbers, when, the
fact was, they were running away from his superior force. He made a
retreat; upon ascertaining which, the Americans turned back and followed
him, harassing his rear.
I was told, at Baltimore, that had the English advanced, the American
militia was quite ready to run away, not having the idea of opposing
themselves to trained soldiers. It really was very absurd; but in many
instances during the war, which have come to my knowledge, it was
exactly this,--"If you don't run, I will; but if you will, I won't!"
The name given by the French to Vermont, designates the features of the
country, which is composed of small mountains, covered with verdure to
their summits; but the land is by no means good.
At the bottoms, on the banks of the rivers, the alluvial soil is rich,
and, generally speaking, the land in this State admits of cultivation
about half-way up the mountains; after which, it is fit for nothing but
sheep-walks, or to grow small timber upon. I have travelled much in the
Eastern States, and have been surprised to find how very small a portion
of all of them is under cultivation, considering how long they have been
settled; nor will there be more of the land taken up, I presume, for a
long period; that is to say, not until the West is so over-peopled that
a reflux is compelled to fall back into the Eastern States, and the
crowded masses, like the Gulf-stream, find vent to the northward and
eastward.
Set off by coach, long before day-light. There is something very
gratifying when once you _are up_, in finding yourself up before the
sun; you can repeat to yourself, "How doth the little busy bee," with
such satisfaction. Some few stars still twinkled in the sky, winking
like the eyelids of tired sentinels, but soon they were relieved, one
after another, by the light of morning.
It was still dark when we started, and off we went, up hill and down
hill--short steep _pitches_, as they term them here--at a furious rate.
There was no level ground; it was all undulating, and very trying to the
springs. But an American driver stops at nothing; he will flog away
with six horses in hand; and it is wonderful how few accidents happen:
but it is very fatiguing, and one hundred miles of American travelling
by stage, is equal to four hundred in England.
There is much amusement to be extracted from the drivers of these
stages, if you will take your seat with them on the front, which few
Americans do, as they prefer the inside. One of the drivers, soon after
we had changed our team, called out to the off-leader, as he flanked her
with his whip. "Go along, you _no-tongued_ crittur!"
"Why _no-tongued_?" enquired I.
"Well, I reckon she has no tongue, having bitten it off herself, I was
going to say--but it wasn't exactly that, neither."
"How was it, then?"
"Well now, the fact is, that she is awful ugly," (ill-tempered); "she
bites like a badger, and kicks up as high as the church-steeple. She's
an almighty crittur to handle. I was trying to hitch her under-jaw
like, with the halter, but she worretted so, that I could only hitch her
tongue: she ran back, the end of the halter was fast to the ring, and so
she left her tongue in the hitch--that's a _fact_!"
"I wonder it did not kill her; didn't she bleed very much? How does she
contrive to eat her corn?"
"Well, now, she bled pretty considerable--but not to speak off. I did
keep her _one day_ in the stable, because I thought she might feel
_queer_; since that she has worked in the team every day; and she'll eat
her peck of corn with any horse in the stable. But her tongue is out,
that's certain--so _she'll tell no more lies_!"
Not the least doubting my friend's veracity I, nevertheless, took an
opportunity, when we changed, of ascertaining the fact; and her tongue
was _half_ of it out, that _is_ the fact.
When we stopped, we had to shift the luggage to another coach. The
driver, who was a slight man, was, for some time, looking rather puzzled
at the trunks which lay on the road, and which he had to put on the
coach: he tried to lift one of the largest, let it down again, and then
beckoned to me:--
"I say, captain, them four large trunks be rather overmuch for me; but I
guess you can master them, so just lift them up on the hind board for
me."
I complied; and as I had to lift them as high as my head, they required
all my strength.
"Thank ye, captain; don't trouble yourself any more, the rest be all
right, and I can manage them myself."
The Americans never refuse to assist each other in such difficulties as
this. In a young country they must assist each other, if they wish to
be assisted themselves--and there always will be a mutual dependence.
If a man is in a _fix_ in America, every one stops to assist him, and
expects the same for himself.
Bellows Falls, a beautiful, romantic spot on the Connecticut River,
which separates the States of New Hampshire and Vermont. The masses of
rocks through which the river forces its way at the Falls, are very
grand and imposing; and the surrounding hills, rich with the autumnal
tints, rivet the eye. On these masses of rocks are many faces, cut out
by the tribe of Pequod Indians, who formerly used to fish in their
waters. Being informed that there was to be a militia muster, I
resolved to attend it.
The militia service is not in good odour with the Americans just now.
Formerly, when they did try to do as well as they could, the scene was
absurd enough; but now they do all they can to make it ridiculous. In
this muster there were three or four companies, well equipped; but the
major part of the men were what they call here _flood-wood_, that is, of
all sizes and heights--a term suggested by the pieces of wood borne down
by the freshets of the river, and which are of all sorts, sizes, and
lengths. But not only were the men of all sorts and sizes, but the
uniforms also, some of which were the most extraordinary I ever beheld,
and not unlike the calico dresses worn by the tumblers and vaulters at
an English fair. As for the exercise, they either did not, or would
not, know any thing about it; indeed, as they are now mustered but once
a year, it cannot be expected that they should; but as they faced every
way, and made mistakes on purpose, it is evident, from their consistent
pertinacity in being wrong, that they did know something. When they
marched off single file, quick time, they were one half of them dancing
in and out of the ranks to the lively tune which was played--the only
instance I saw of their keeping time. But the most amusing part of the
ceremony was the speech made by the brigade major, whose patience had
certainly been tried, and who wished to impress his countrymen with the
importance of the militia. He ordered them to form a hollow square.
They formed a circle, proving that if they could not square the circle,
at all events they could circle the square, which is coming very near to
it. The major found himself, on his white horse, in an arena about as
large as that in which Mr Ducrow performs at Astley's. He then
commenced a sort of perambulating equestrian speech, riding round and
round the circle, with his cocked hat in his hand. As the arena was
large, and he constantly turned his head as he spoke to those nearest to
him in the circle, it was only when he came to within a few yards of
you, that you could distinguish what he was saying; and of course the
auditors at the other point were in the same predicament. However, he
divided his speech out in portions very equally, and those which came to
my share were as follows:
"Yes, gentlemen--the president, senate, and house of representatives,
and all others ... you militia, the bones and muscle of the land, and by
whom ... Eagle of America shall ruffle her wings, will ever dart ...
those days so glorious, when our gallant forefathers ... terrible effect
of the use of ardent spirits, and shewing ... Temperance societies, the
full benefits of which, I am ... Star-spangled banner, ever victorious,
blazing like...."
The last word I heard was _glory_; but his audience being very impatient
for their dinner, cried out loudly for it--preferring it to the
mouthfuls of eloquence which fell to their share, but did not stay their
stomach. Altogether it was a scene of much fun and good-humour.
Stopped at the pretty village of Charlestown, celebrated for the defence
it made during the French war. There is here, running by the river
side, a turnpike road, which gave great offence to the American citizens
of this State: they declared that to pay toll was _monarchical_, as they
always assert every thing to be which taxes their pockets. So, one fine
night, they assembled with a hawser and a team or two of horses, made
the hawser fast to the house at the gate, dragged it down to the river,
and sent it floating down the stream, with the gate and board of tolls
in company with it.
Progressing in the stage, I had a very amusing specimen of the ruling
passion of the country--the spirit of barter, which is communicated to
the females, as well as to the boys. I will stop for a moment, however,
to say, that I heard of an American, who had two sons, and he declared
that they were so clever at barter, that he locked them both up together
in a room, without a cent in their pockets, and that before they had
_swopped_ for an hour, they had each gained two dollars a piece. But
now for my fellow-passengers--both young, both good-looking, and both
ladies, and evidently were total strangers to each other. One had a
pretty pink silk bonnet, very fine for travelling; the other, an
indifferent plush one. The young lady in the plush, eyed the pink
bonnet for some time: at last _Plush_ observed in a drawling
half-indifferent way:
"That's rather a pretty bonnet of your's, miss."
"Why yes, I calculate it's rather smart," replied Pink.
After a pause and closer survey.--"You wouldn't have any objection to
part with it, miss?"
"Well now, I don't know but I might; I have worn it but three days, I
reckon."
"Oh, my! I should have reckoned that you carried it longer--perhaps it
rained on them three days."
"I've a notion it didn't rain, not one.--It's not the only bonnet I
have, miss."
"Well now, I should not mind an exchange, and paying you the _balance_."
"That's an awful thing that you have on, miss!"
"I rather think not, but that's as may be.--Come, miss, what will you
take?"
"Why I don't know,--what will you give?"
"I reckon you'll know best when you answer my question."
"Well then, I shouldn't like less than five dollars."
"Five dollars and my bonnet! I reckon two would be nearer the mark--but
it's of no consequence."
"None in the least, miss, only I know the value of my bonnet.--We'll say
no more about it."
"Just so, miss."
A pause and silence for half a minute, when Miss Plush, looks out of the
window, and says, as if talking to herself, "I shouldn't mind giving
four dollars, but no more." She then fell back in her seat, when Miss
Pink, put her head out of the window, and said:--"I shouldn't refuse
four dollars after all, if it was offered," and then she fell back to
her former position.
"Did you think of taking four dollars, miss?"
"Well! I don't care, I've plenty of bonnets at home."
"Well," replied Plush, taking out her purse, and offering her the money.
"What bank is this, miss?"
"Oh, all's right there, Safety Fund, I calculate."
The two ladies exchange bonnets, and Pink pockets the balance.
I may here just as well mention the custom of _whittling_, which is so
common in the Eastern States. It is a habit, arising from the natural
restlessness of the American when he is not employed, of cutting a piece
of stick, or any thing else, with his knife. Some are so wedded to it
from long custom, that if they have not a piece of stick to cut, they
will whittle the backs of the chairs, or any thing within their reach.
A yankee shewn into a room to await the arrival of another, has been
known to whittle away nearly the whole of the mantle-piece. Lawyers in
court whittle away at the table before them; and judges will cut through
their own bench. In some courts, they put sticks before noted whittlers
to save the furniture. The Down-Easters, as the yankees are termed
generally, whittle when they are making a bargain, as it fills up the
pauses, gives them time for reflection, and moreover, prevents any
examination of the countenance--for in bargaining, like in the game of
brag, the countenance is carefully watched, as an index to the wishes.
I was once witness to a bargain made between two respectable yankees,
who wished to agree about a farm, and in which whittling was resorted
to.
They sat down on a log of wood, about, three or four feet apart from
each other, with their faces turned opposite ways--that is, one had his
legs on one side of the log with his face to the East, and the other his
legs on the other side with his face to the West. One had a piece of
soft wood, and was sawing it with his penknife; the other had an
unbarked hiccory stick which he was peeling for a walking-stick. The
reader will perceive a strong analogy between this bargain and that in
the stage between the two ladies.
"Well, good morning--and about this farm?"
"I don't know; what will you take?"
"What will you give?"
Silence, and whittle away.
"Well, I should think two thousand dollars, a heap of money for this
farm."
"I've a notion it will never go for three thousand, any how."
"There's a fine farm, and cheaper, on the North side."
"But where's the sun to ripen the corn?"
"Sun shines on all alike."
"Not exactly through a Vermont hill, I reckon. The driver offered me as
much as I say, if I recollect right."
"Money not always to be depended upon. Money not always forthcoming!"
"I reckon, I shall make an elegant 'backy stopper of this piece of
sycamore."
Silence for a few moments. Knives hard at work.
"I've a notion this is as pretty a hiccory stick as ever came out of a
wood."
"I shouldn't mind two thousand five hundred dollars, and time given."
"It couldn't be more than six months then, if it goes at that price."
(Pause.)
"Well, that might suit me."
"What do you say, then?"
"Suppose it must be so."
"It's a bargain then," rising up; "come let's liquor on it."