"When King Hacon appeared off Ayr, and anchored at Arran, King

Alexander, who appears to have been present himself at Ayr, or in the

neighbourhood of the town, with the greater part of his forces, now

opened negotiations, sending several messages by Franciscan or

Dominican Friars for the purpose of treating for peace. Nor did King

Hacon show himself unwilling to negotiate, and proved this

sufficiently by permitting Eogan of Argyll to depart in peace,

loading him, moreover, with presents, on the condition that he should

do his best to bring about a reconciliation,--Eogan pledging himself,

if he did not succeed, to return to King Hacon. Perhaps it was due

to the exertions of Eogan, that a truce was concluded, in order to

commence negotiations in a more formal manner. King Hacon now

despatched an embassy, consisting of two bishops, Gilbert of Hamar,

and Henry of Orkney, with three barons, to Alexander, whom they found

at Ayr. They were well received, but could not get any definite

answer,--Alexander alleging that, before proposing the conditions, he

must consult with his councillors; this done, he should not fail to

let King Hacon know the result. The Norwegian messengers, therefore,

returned to their king, who meanwhile had removed to Bute. The next

day, however, messengers arrived from King Alexander, bringing a list

of those isles which he would not resign,--viz., Arran, Bute, and the

Cumreys, (that is, generally speaking, the isles inside Kentire,)

which implies that he now offered to renounce his claim to all the

others. It is certainly not to be wondered at that he did not like

to see those isles, which commanded the entrance to the Clyde, in the

hands of another power. King Hacon, however, had prepared another

list, which contained the names of all those isles which he claimed

for the crown of Norway; and although the exact contents are not

known, there can be no doubt that at least Arran and Bute were among

the number. The Saga says that, on the whole, there was, after all,

no great difference, but that, nevertheless, no final reconciliation

could be obtained,--the Scotchmen trying only to protract the

negotiations because the summer was past, and the bad weather was

begun. The Scotch messengers at last returned, and King Hacon

removed with the fleet to the Cumreys, near Largs, in the direction

of Cuningham, no doubt with a view of being either nearer at hand if

the negotiations failed, and a landing was to be effected, or only of

intimidating his opponents and hastening the conclusion of the peace,

as the roadstead in itself seems to have been far less safe than that

of Lamlash or Bute. King Alexander sent, indeed, several messages,

and it was agreed to hold a new congress a little farther up in the

country, which shows that King Alexander now had removed from Ayr to

a spot nearer Largs, perhaps to Camphill, (on the road from Largs to

Kilbirnie,) where a local tradition states the king encamped. The

Norwegian messengers were, as before, some bishops and barons; the

Scotch commissaries were some knights and monks. The deliberations

were long, but still without any result. At last, when the day was

declining, a crowd of Scotchmen began to gather, and, as it continued

to increase, the Norwegians, not thinking themselves safe, returned

without having obtained anything. The Norwegian warriors now

demanded earnestly that the truce should be renounced, because their

provisions had begun to be scarce, and they wanted to plunder. King

Hacon accordingly sent one of his esquires, named Kolbein, to King

Alexander with the letter issued by this monarch, ordering him to

claim back that given by himself, and thus declare the truce to be

ended, previously, however, proposing that both kings should meet at

the head of their respective armies, and try a personal conference

before coming to extremities; only, if that failed, they might go to

battle as the last expedient. King Alexander, however, did not

declare his intention plainly, and Kolbein, tired of waiting,

delivered up the letter, got that of King Hacon back, and thus

rescinded the truce. He was escorted to the ships by two monks.

Kolbein, when reporting to King Hacon his proceedings, told him that

Eogan of Argyll had earnestly tried to persuade King Alexander from

fighting with the Norwegians. It does not seem, however, that Eogan

went back to King Hacon according to his promise. This monarch now

was greatly exasperated, and desired the Scottish monks, when

returning, to tell their king that he would very soon recommence the

hostilities, and try the issue of a battle.

"Accordingly, King Hacon detached King Dugald, Alan M'Rory his

brother, Angus of Isla, Murchard of Kentire, and two Norwegian

commanders, with sixty ships, to sail into Loch Long, and ravage the

circumjacent ports, while he prepared to land himself with the main

force at Largs, and fight the Scottish army. The detachment does not

appear to have met with any serious resistance, all the Scotch forces

being probably collected near Largs. The banks of Loch Lomond and

the whole of Lennox were ravaged. Angus even ventured across the

country to the other side, probably near Stirling, killing men and

taking a great number of cattle. This done, the troops who had been

on shore returned to the ships. Here, however, a terrible storm,

which blew for two days, (Oct. 1 and 2,) wrecked ten vessels; and one

of the Norwegian captains was taken sick, and died suddenly.

"Also the main fleet, off Largs, suffered greatly by the same

tempest. It began in the night between Sunday (Sept. 30) and Monday

(Oct. 1,) accompanied by violent showers. A large transport vessel

drifted down on the bow of the royal ship, swept off the gallion, and

got foul of the cable; it was at last cast loose and drifted toward

the island; but on the royal ship it had been necessary to remove the

usual awnings and covers, and in the morning (Oct. 1) when the flood

commenced, the wind likewise turned, and the vessel, along with

another vessel of transport and a ship of war, was driven on the main

beach, where it stuck fast, the royal ship drifting down while with

five anchors, and only stopped when the eighth had been let go. The

king had found it safest to land in a boat on the Cumrey, with the

clergy, who celebrated mass, the greater part believing that the

tempest had been raised by witchcraft. Soon the other ships began to

drift; several had to cut away the masts; five drifted towards the

shore, and three went aground. The men on board these ships were now

dangerously situated, because the Scotch, who from their elevated

position could see very well what passed in the fleet, sent down

detachments against them, while the storm prevented their comrades in

the fleet from coming to their aid. They manned, however, the large

vessel which had first drifted on shore, and defended themselves as

well as they could against the superior force of the enemy, who began

shooting at them. Happily the storm abated a little, and the king

was not only able to return on board his ships, but even sent them

some aid in boats; the Scotch were put to flight, and the Norwegians

were able to pass the night on shore. Yet, in the dark, some Scots

found their way to the vessel and took what they could. In the

morning (Tuesday, Oct. 2,) the king himself, with some barons and

some troops, went to shore in boats to secure the valuable cargo of

the transport, or what was left of it, in which they succeeded. Now,

however, the main army of the Scots was seen approaching, and the

king, who at first meant to remain on shore and head his troops

himself, was prevailed upon by his men, who feared lest he should

expose himself too much, to return on board his ship. The number of

the Norwegians left on shore did not exceed 1000 men, 240 of whom,

commanded by the Baron Agmund Krokidans, occupied a hillock, the rest

were stationed on the beach. The Scotch, it is related in the Saga,

had about 600 horsemen in armour, several of whom had Spanish steeds,

all covered with mail; they had a great deal of infantry, well armed,

especially with bows and Lochaber axes. The Norwegians believed that

King Alexander himself was in the army: perhaps this is true. We

learn, however, from Fordun that the real commander was Alexander of

Dundonald, the Stewart of Scotland. The Scotch first attacked the

knoll with the 240 men, who retired slowly, always facing the enemy

and fighting; but in retracing their steps down hill, as they could

not avoid accelerating their movement as the impulse increased, those

on the beach believed that they were routed, and a sudden panic

betook them for a moment, which cost many lives; as the boats were

too much crowded they sank with their load; others, who did not reach

the boats, fled in a southerly direction, and were pursued by the

Scotch, who killed many of them; others sought refuge in the

aforesaid stranded vessel: at last they rallied behind one of the

stranded ships of war, and an obstinate battle began; the Norwegians,

now that the panic was over, fighting desperately. Then it was that

the young and valiant Piers of Curry, of whom even Fordun and Wyntown

speak, was killed by the Norwegian baron Andrew Nicholasson, after

having twice ridden through the Norwegian ranks. The storm for a

while prevented King Hacon from aiding his men, and the Scotch being

tenfold stronger, began to get the upper hand; but at last two barons

succeeded in landing with fresh troops, when the Scotch were

gradually driven back upon the knoll, and then put to flight towards

the hills. This done, the Norwegians returned on board the ships; on

the following morning (Oct. 3) they returned on shore to carry away

the bodies of the slain, which, it appears, they effected quite

unmolested by the enemy; all the bodies were carried to a church, no

doubt in Bute, and there buried. The next day, (Thursday, Oct. 4,)

the king removed his ship farther out under the island, and the same

day the detachment arrived which had been sent to Loch Long. The

following day, (Friday, Oct. 5,) the weather being fair, the king

sent men on shore to burn the stranded ships, which likewise appears

to have been effected without any hindrance from the enemy. On the

same day he removed with the whole fleet to Lamlash harbour."

With what a curious particularity the Saga relates the events of this

smokeless ancient combat--so different from modern ones, where "the

ranks are rolled in vapour, and the winds are laid with sound"--and

how Piers of Curry, "who had ridden twice through the Norwegian

ranks," towers amongst the combatants! As the describer of battles,

since the invention of gunpowder, Homer would be no better than Sir

Archibald Alison. We have more explicit information as to this

skirmish on the Ayrshire coast in the thirteenth century than we have

concerning the battle of Solferino; and yet King Hacon has been in

his grave these five centuries, and Napoleon III. and Kaiser Joseph

yet live. And "Our Own Correspondent" had not come into the world at

that date either.

[2] For this translation I am indebted to my learned and accomplished

friend the Rev. Mr Macpherson of Inverary.

_THE SECOND SIGHT._

[Sidenote: Quirang.]

The Quirang is one of the wonderful sights of Skye, and if you once

visit it you will believe ever afterwards the misty and spectral

Ossian to be authentic. The Quirang is a nightmare of nature; it

resembles one of Nat Lee's mad tragedies; it might be the scene of a

Walpurgis night; on it might be held a Norway witch's Sabbath.

Architecture is frozen music, it is said; the Quirang is frozen

terror and superstition. 'Tis a huge spire or cathedral of rock some

thousand feet in height, with rocky spires or needles sticking out of

it. Macbeth's weird sisters stand on the blasted heath, and Quirang

stands in a region as wild as itself. The country around is strange

and abnormal, rising into rocky ridges here, like the spine of some

huge animal, sinking into hollows there, with pools in the

hollows--glimmering almost always through drifts of misty rain. On a

clear day, with a bright sun above, the ascent of Quirang may be

pleasant enough; but a clear day you seldom find, for on spectral

precipices and sharp-pointed rocky needles, the weeping clouds of the

Atlantic have made their chosen home. When you ascend, with every

ledge and block slippery, every runnel a torrent, the wind taking

liberties with your cap and making your plaid stream like a meteor to

the troubled air, white tormented mists boiling up from black chasms

and caldrons, rain making disastrous twilight of noon-day,--horror

shoots through your pulses, your brain swims on the giddy pathway,

and the thought of your room in the vapoury under world rushes across

the soul like the fallen Adam's remembrance of his paradise. Then

you learn, if you never learned before, that nature is not always

gracious; that not always does she out-stretch herself in low-lying

bounteous lands, over which sober sunsets redden and heavy-uddered

cattle low; but that she has fierce hysterical moods in which she

congeals into granite precipice and peak, and draws around herself

and her companions the winds that moan and bluster, veils of livid

rains. If you are an Englishman you will habitually know her in her

gracious, if a Skye man in her fiercer, moods.

[Sidenote: The Saxon and the Celt.]

No one is independent of scenery and climate. Men are racy of the

soil in which they grow, even as grapes are. A Saxon nurtured in fat

Kent or Sussex, amid flats of heavy wheat and acorn-dropping oaks,

must of necessity be a different creature from the Celt who gathers

his sustenance from the bleak sea-board, and who is daily drenched by

the rain-cloud from Cuchullin. The one, at his best, becomes a

broad-shouldered, clear-eyed, ruddy-faced man, slightly obese, who

meets danger gleefully, because he has had little experience of it,

and because his conditions being hitherto easy, he naturally assumes

that everything will go well with him;--at worst, a porker contented

with his mast. The other, take him at his best, of sharper spirit,

because it has been more keenly whetted on difficulty; if not more

intrepid, at least more consciously so; of sadder mood habitually,

but _when_ happy, happier, as the gloomier the cloud the more

dazzling the rainbow;--at his worst, either beaten down, subdued, and

nerveless, or gaunt, suspicious, and crafty, like the belly-pinched

wolf. On the whole, the Saxon is likely to be the more sensual; the

Celt the more superstitious: the Saxon will probably be prosaic,

dwelling in the circle of the seen and the tangible; the Celt a poet:

while the anger of the Saxon is slow and abiding, like the burning of

coal; the anger of the Celt is swift and transient, like the flame

that consumes the dried heather: both are superior to death when

occasion comes--the Saxon from a grand obtuseness which ignores the

fact; the Celt, because he has been in constant communion with it,

and because he has seen, measured, and overcome it. The Celt is the

most melancholy of men; he has turned everything to superstitious

uses, and every object of nature, even the unreasoning dreams of

sleep, are mirrors which flash back death upon him. He, the least of

all men, requires to be reminded that he is mortal. The howling of

his dog will do him that service.

[Sidenote: Superstitious feelings.]

In the stories which are told round the island peat-fires it is

abundantly apparent that the Celt has not yet subdued nature. In

these stories you can detect a curious subtle hostility between man

and his environments; a fear of them, a want of absolute trust in

them. In these stories and songs man is not at home in the world.

Nature is too strong for him; she rebukes and crushes him. The

Elements, however calm and beautiful they may appear for the moment,

are malign and deceitful at heart, and merely bide their time. They

are like the paw of the cat--soft and velvety, but with concealed

talons that scratch when least expected. And this curious relation

between man and nature grows out of the climatic conditions and the

forms of Hebridean life. In his usual avocations the Islesman rubs

clothes with death as he would with an acquaintance. Gathering wild

fowl, he hangs, like a spider on its thread, over a precipice on

which the sea is beating a hundred feet beneath. In his crazy boat

he adventures into whirlpool and foam. He is among the hills when

the snow comes down making everything unfamiliar, and stifling the

strayed wanderer. Thus death is ever near him, and that

consciousness turns everything to omen. The mist creeping along the

hill-side by moonlight is an apparition. In the roar of the

waterfall, or the murmur of the swollen ford, he hears the water

spirit calling out for the man for whom it has waited so long. He

sees death-candles burning on the sea, marking the place at which a

boat will be upset by some sudden squall. He hears spectral hammers

clinking in an outhouse, and he knows that ghostly artificers are

preparing a coffin there. Ghostly fingers tap at his window, ghostly

feet are about his door; at midnight his furniture cries out as if it

had seen a sight and could not restrain itself. Even his dreams are

prophetic, and point ghastly issues for himself or for others. And

just as there are poets who are more open to beauty than other men,

and whose duty and delight it is to set forth that beauty anew; so in

the Hebrides there are seers who bear the same relation to the other

world that the poet bears to beauty, who are cognisant of its

secrets, and who make those secrets known. The seer does not inherit

his power. It comes upon him at haphazard, as genius or as personal

beauty might come. He is a lonely man amongst his fellows;

apparitions cross his path at noon-day; he never knows into what a

ghastly something the commonest object may transform itself--the

table he sits at may suddenly become the resting-place of a coffin;

and the man who laughs in his cups with him may, in the twinkling of

an eye, wear a death-shroud up to his throat. He hears river voices

prophesying death, and shadowy and silent funeral processions are

continually defiling before him. When the seer beholds a vision his

companions know it; for "the inner part of his eyelids turn so far

upwards that, after the object disappears, he must draw them down

with his fingers, and sometimes employs others to draw them down,

which he finds to be much the easier way." From long experience of

these visions, and by noticing how closely or tardily fulfilment has

trodden upon their heels, the seer can extract the meaning of the

apparition that flashes upon him, and predict the period of its

accomplishment. Other people can make nothing of them, but _he_

reads them, as the sailor in possession of the signal-book reads the

signal flying at the peak of the High Admiral. These visions, it

would appear, conform to rules, like everything else. If a vision be

seen early in a morning, it will be accomplished in a few hours,--if

at noon, it will usually be accomplished that day,--if in the

evening, that night,--if after candles are lighted, certainly that

night. When a shroud is seen about a person it is a sure

prognostication of death. And the period of death is estimated by

the height of the shroud about the body. If it lies about the legs,

death is not to be expected before the expiry of a year, and perhaps

it may be deferred a few months longer. If it is seen near the head,

death will occur in a few days, perhaps in a few hours. To see

houses and trees in a desert place is a sign that buildings will be

erected there anon. To see a spark of fire falling on the arms or

breast of a person is the sign that a dead child will shortly be in

the arms of those persons. To see a seat empty at the time of

sitting in it is a sign of that person's death being at hand. The

seers are said to be extremely temperate in habit; they are neither

drunkards nor gluttons; they are not subject to convulsions nor

hysterical fits; there are no madmen amongst them; nor has a seer

ever been known to commit suicide.

[Sidenote: The second sight.]

The literature of the second sight is extremely curious. The writers

have perfect faith in the examples they adduce; but their examples

are far from satisfactory. They are seldom obtained at first hand,

they almost always live on hearsay; and even if everything be true,

the professed fulfilment seems nothing other than a rather singular

coincidence. Still these stories are devoutly believed in Skye, and

it is almost as perilous to doubt the existence of a Skyeman's ghost

as to doubt the existence of a Skyeman's ancestor. In "Treatises on

the Second Sight," very curious tracts, compiled by Theophilus

Insulanus, Rev. Mr Frazer, Mr Martin, and John Aubrey, Esq., F.R.S.,

and which hint that a disbelief in apparitions is tantamount to

disbelief in the immortality of the soul, the following stories are

related:--

"John Campbell, younger of Ardsliguish, in Ardnamorchuann, in the

year 1729, returning home with Duncan Campbell, his brother, since

deceased, as they drew near the house, in a plain surrounded with

bushes of wood, where they intended to discharge their fusees at a

mark, observed a young girl, whom they knew to be one of their

domestics, crossing the plain, and having called her by name, she did

not answer, but ran into the thicket. As the two brothers had been

some days from home, and willing to know what happened in their

absence, the youngest, John, pursued after, but could not find her.

Immediately, as they arrived at home, having acquainted their mother

they saw the said girl, and called after her, but she avoided their

search, and would not speak to them; upon which they were told she

departed this life that same day. I had this relation from James

Campbell in Girgudale, a young man of known modesty and candour, who

had the story at several times from the said John Campbell."

"Mr Anderson assured me, that upon the 16th of April 1746, (being the

day on which his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland obtained a

glorious victory over the rebels at Culloden,) as he lay in bed with

his spouse towards the dawning of the day, he heard very audibly a

voice at his bed-head inquiring if he was awake; who answered he was,

but then took no further notice of it. A little time thereafter, the

voice repeated, with greater vehemence, if he was awake. And he

answering, as formerly, he was, there was some stop, when the voice

repeated louder, asking the same question, and he making the same

answer, but asking what the voice had to say; upon which it replied,

The prince is defeated, defeated, defeated! And in less than

forty-eight hours thereafter an express carried the welcome tidings

of the fact into the country."

"Captain Macdonald of Castletown (allowed by all his acquaintances to

be a person of consummate integrity) informed me that a Knoydart man

(being on board of a vessel at anchor in the sound of the Island

Oransay) went under night out of the cabin to the deck, and being

missed by his company, some of them went to call him down; but not

finding him, concluded that he had dropt from the ship's side. When

day came on, they got a long line furnished with hooks, (from a

tenant's house close by the shore,) which having cast from the ship's

side, some of the hooks got hold of his clothes, so that they got the

corpse taken up. The owner of the long line told Captain Macdonald

that for a quarter of a year before that accident happened, he

himself and his domestics, on every calm night, would hear lamentable

cries at the shore where the corpse was landed; and not only so, but

the long lines that took up the corpse being hung on a pin in his

house, all of them would hear an odd jingling of the hooks before and

after going to bed, and that without any person, dog, or cat touching

them; and at other times, with fire light, see the long lines covered

over with lucid globules, such as are seen drop from oars rowing

under night."

The foregoing are examples of the general superstitions that prevail

in the islands; those that follow relate to the second sight.

A summer in Skye, Volume 1 (of 2) · 第 12 / 15 段