THE
=JOURNAL=
OF
=FREDERICK HORNEMAN’S TRAVELS,=
FROM
=CAIRO TO MOURZOUK,=
THE
CAPITAL OF THE KINGDOM OF FEZZAN,
=IN AFRICA.=
IN THE YEARS 1797-8.
LONDON:
* * * * *
PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO.
CLEVELAND-ROW, ST. JAMES’S;
FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLEES TO HIS MAJESTY,
PALL-MALL.
1802.
=TABLE OF CONTENTS.=
* * * * *
_INTRODUCTION_ page i
_Preface, containing some Account of F. Horneman; of the
Preparations for his Voyage; and of Events previous to
his leaving Cairo_ xvii
CHAPTER I.
SECTION I.—_To Ummesogeir_ 1
SECTION II.—_Observations on the Desert; passing from the
Valley of Natron to the Mountains of Ummesogeir_ 8
SECTION III.—_Ummesogeir, and further Journey to Siwah_ 11
SECTION IV.—_Siwah_ 14
SECTION V.—_Antiquities of Siwah_ 20
SECTION VI.—_Departure from Siwah; Journey to Schiacha;
and Danger which the Traveller there incurred_ 29
SECTION VII.—_Departure from Schiacha; Arrival at Augila_ 36
CHAPTER II.
SECTION I.—_Augila, and further Progress to the Confines
of Temissa_ 40
SECTION II.—_Observations on the Region of the Harutsch_ 48
SECTION III.—_Arrival at Temissa, and further Journey_ 53
SECTION IV.—_Of Zuila_ 56
SECTION V.—_Farther Journey, and Arrival at Mourzouk, the
Capital of the Kingdom of Fezzan_ 59
CHAPTER III.
_Some Account of Mourzouk, and of the Kingdom of Fezzan_ 62
APPENDIX.
No. I.
_Observations on F. Horneman’s Description of the Country
and Antiquities of Siwah; with Reference to ancient
Accounts of the Oasis and Temple of Ammon.
By Sir William Young, Bart. F. R. S._ 75
No. II.
_Some Account of F. Horneman, after his Arrival at Mourzouk_ 97
No. III.
_A Memoir, containing various Informations respecting the
Interior of Africa; transmitted from Mourzouk in 1799,
by F. Horneman_ 105
No. IV.
_Geographical Illustrations of the Travels and
Informations of F. Horneman, with Maps; by Major
James Rennell, F. R. S._ 121
No. V.
_Observations on the Language of Siwah; in a Letter to
the Rt. Hon. Sir Joseph Banks; by William Marsden,
Esq. F. R. S._ 189
No. VI.
_List of the Members of the Society, instituted for the
Purpose of promoting a Discovery of the Interior
Parts of Africa_ 193
* * * * *
ERRATA.
_Pag_ 6, _Line_ 9, _for_ roum, _read_ rouin.
— 14, — 7, _for_ monachie, _read_ menschie.
— 19, — 10, _for_ Logman, _read_ Logmam.
— — — 13, _for_ fennel, _read_ flesh or meat.
— — — 14, _for_ eyelid, _read_ eyebrow.
— 46, — 9, _after_ watering-place,
_insert_ called _Ennaté_.
— 95, — 6, _for_ would, _read_ wouldst.
— — — 27, _for_ rare, _read_ sure.
— 105, — 9, _for_ Ungila and Supah,
_read_ Augila and Siwah.
— — — 15, _after_ is, _insert_ not.
— 107, — 17, _for_ Burnû, _read_ Burgû.
— — — 22, _for_ SSW, _read_ SSE.
— 112, — 17, _for_ the culture of their land,
_read_ their preparation of leather.
=INTRODUCTION.=
* * * * *
The Society, instituted in the year 1788, for the purpose of exploring
the Interior of Africa, in pursuing their _great_ design, adopted
_wise_ and certain principles of procedure: they inquired, and then
examined; they sought intelligence, and then directed research:
their progress has been answerable to the just system of their
pursuits and perseverance; and the Society, from the epoch of 1798,
have been enabled to direct their efforts for further discovery,
on data from actual visitation and experiment.
A volume of the transactions of the Society, printed in the years
1790—92, sets forth in detail, such communications respecting the
Interior of Africa, as might be collected on inquiry from British
Consuls; from the recital of Negro, or Moorish traders; or from
that of Shereefs and others, who had passed with the caravans on
religious pilgrimage, in different directions between Mecca and the
various and remote stations of Mahomedans in Africa.
Those communications were, at the time, most interesting and useful;
they afforded at once the incentive and the direction to farther
inquiry; they opened new objects to commercial enterprize, and new
matter for scientific speculation, on the productions of nature,
and the manners and conditions of society, in a quarter of the
globe hitherto unexplored: further, they pointed out the road, and
facilitated the means, of ascertaining the truth of each account,
and of estimating its importance and advantages by actual visitation
and experiment.
Be it allowed, that the narrators spoke of what they had heard,
as well as of what they had seen; let it be granted that they
were mostly ignorant, credulous, or partially informed; and that,
distinctively and in detail, the accuracy of their representations
was little to be depended on; yet on points wherein their accounts
agreed, they merited attention and regard; they _together_ opened a
general view of the society, and of the country; and afforded matter
of such reasonable conjecture and inference, as might warrant and
direct the course of further investigation. Reflecting on these and
other relations made by unenlightened men, it appears, that as the
great continent of Africa, amidst its seas of sand, occasionally
shews its Oasis, or fertile isle, rising in each desert; so,
in analogy to the face of the country, does the blank and torpid
mind of its people, display occasionally notes of intelligence and
philanthropy; rich spots of genius, and partial scenes of improved
social establishment. Having passed whole regions sterilized by
apathy and ignorance, the result of superstitions, prejudice, and
oppression, the enlightened traveller comes to a sudden view of some
rich field of character, and contemplates with delight the free-born
spirit and sagacity of the Tuarick of Hagara, and the ingenuity and
benevolence of the Houssan. To unfold and disseminate these germs
of civilization, is surely a noble task! What description of men
and country can be more interesting? whither could the refinement of
arts? whither could enlightened philosophy better tend, to humanize
and improve? whither could the spirit of trade better direct its
course? As we speculate on the projected intercourse, the noblest
views open to the mind, anticipating reciprocal advantages: in
the dispensation of intelligence and the arts of peace, carrying
therewith complacent manners to rude and ferocious nations; and
in a full compensation to the enlightened adventurers, from new
materials of ingenuity and of commerce, and from new subjects of
scientific inference, extending the advancement of human knowledge
in all its branches.
The communications in question, operating on the minds of intelligent
Members of the African Society, and giving a spur to the curiosity
and enterprize of the agents they might employ, formed a suitable
and necessary PREFACE to the undertaking and efforts for practical
discovery, and for ensuring the advantages thence to be derived.
The compilation of various informations respecting Africa, had thus
an intrinsic value, as affording premises of inquiry, and as giving
encouragement and direction to adventure.
But further, and even immediately, wisdom and sagacity will extract
truth from accounts, however contradictory, and useful and certain
inference, from documents the most ambiguous or incomplete.
Efforts of rude ingenuity often suggest not only improvement but
discovery; the rustic forms a lever to raise the mass, and the
sagacity of the mechanic applies it to ascertain the weight.
Science often works with effect on the loose and disjointed materials
which ignorance has heaped together; compares, arranges, and connects
their substances and forms; shews in their matter, construction,
or decomposition, new uses; derives new informations, and adds to
the stock of human inventions and knowledge.
Were it necessary to illustrate such position by example, the writer
would refer, as a special instance, to the elucidations of Major
Rennell on the communications in question: to that most accurate and
acute philosopher and geographer, the details have afforded matter of
enquiry and deduction of the highest import to science. By analysis,
and a comparative view of accounts given of journies and places,
in reference to the plans of D’Anville, and other geographers; to
modern travels; to ancient expeditions; to descriptions of ancient
writers; and above all, to those of the father of history, Herodotus;
Major Rennell hath corrected the map of Africa, with a learning
and sagacity which _hath converted conjecture into knowledge_;
and on experience of those who have explored parts of that great
continent, given confidence to each future traveller who may visit
its remotest regions.
Had the proceedings of the Society stopped here, and its work been
confined to the compilation above alluded to, and to the comments
of Major Rennell, the usefulness of its institution would have been
acknowledged by posterity.
But happily the Journal of Mr. Park’s travels to the Niger, and that
of Mr. Horneman’s journey from Cairo to Mourzouk, will fully shew,
that the attainments of the Society are no longer narrowed to the
mere rudiments of discovery, which tradition and ingenious inference,
alone before supplied.
Even under the inauspicious circumstances of wars and revolutions
which from nearly the date of the establishment of the Society, have
spread desolation far and wide, and in the year 1798, reached to the
very capital of Africa; their chosen emissaries have surmounted all
the dangers and difficulties, which these events superadded to the
ordinary risk of enterprise.
It should not be omitted, that the traveller, (whose work is now
submitted to the public,) was further indebted to the liberal and
enlightened spirit, which directs the genius of truly great men to
foster useful arts and sciences amidst the horrors of war; and give
orders to the armies under their command, to forbear all molestation
of the emissary from even an hostile country, whose intentions
and pursuits are directed to objects of common value and concern,
to the nations of the world at large.
Under such patronage and protection from the General Bonaparte,
and with his special passport and safeguard, Frederick Horneman
safely reached the caravan passing from Mecca, and pursued, and
accomplished his journey from Cairo to the kingdom of Fezzan; which
from the general resort of caravans to its capital, Mourzouk, may
be considered as the proper post of direction and outfit, for his
further travels to the remotest regions of Africa.
In planning the routes of Park and of Horneman, the Society availed
itself of former communications, sagaciously discriminated the
proper path of research, and have to exult in the success of each
adventure. These emissaries have explored roads which shortly
mercantile adventure will, and must enter. In this new race of
commerce, shame indeed would it be to our national councils, could it
possibly be supposed that from the default of patronage and support of
Government, our commercial people may lose the start for a priority
of factories and establishments of trade, and permit other nations
to usurp the vantage ground which British enterprise, under the
auspices of a patriotic and enlightened, but private institution,
shall have explored, marked out, and prepared for them.
By Mr. Park’s discoveries, a gate is opened to every commercial
nation to enter and trade from the west to the eastern extremity
of Africa. The navigable parts of the rivers Gambia and Niger are
not so far distant, but that great facilities of trade may thence
be derived, aided by the establishment of intermediate stations and
points of intercourse. A considerable traffic is carried on by the
natives for ostrich feathers, drugs, ivory, and gold, even without
such advantage. On due direction and exertions of British credit
and enterprise, it is difficult to imagine the possible extent to
which the demand for our country’s manufactures might arrive,
from such vast and populous countries in the bosom of which _gold_,
the great medium of commerce, is readily found; and which would be
sought for and brought into circulation with new avidity and success,
in proportion as objects for the exchange, became known, desirable,
and necessary to the people.
This subject has already been recommended by the Society, to the
attention of Government; and on the return of peace, it is not
doubted, but it will be treated with a consideration and regard,
suitable to the important interests which it involves.
When the thorny track of a Park or a Horneman is become the beaten
road of the merchant, advantages of another sort will quickly follow;
and the intercourse extend to the instruction of the naturalist and
philosopher, to the promotion of civilization, and to the increase
of the general stock of human knowledge and happiness.
Contemplating such accomplishment of the wise and benevolent purposes
of their Institution, the patriotic members of this Society cannot
but look back with exultation to the hour of its establishment,
and they will with satisfaction recapitulate its means and progress,
towards such happy termination of their labours.
Of those who transmitted accounts which they had received, concerning
the people and country of Africa, Mr. Ledyard and Mr. Lucas were
specially employed, with the further intent of progress into the
heart of the country; for the purpose of ascertaining the truth
of these recitals, the correcting them on personal information,
and the elucidating, on actual survey, any future plan for turning
the knowledge thence derived to account.
Mr. Ledyard died at Cairo, ere his eager and enterprising spirit
could even start towards its object: Mr. Lucas, deterred by impending
difficulties and dangers, proceeded not further than to Mesurata,
seven days journey S. E. of Tripoly; there collected informations
from the Shereef Imhammed, and traders of Fezzan, and then measured
his road back to Tripoly; and shortly after returned to England.
The Society, with that persevering spirit which ever distinguishes
manly minds, engaged on sound principles, and for noble purposes, were
not appalled by the death of one emissary, or the failure of another.
They sought out and appointed a new traveller, and to take a new
road. Mr. Ledyard was to have penetrated from the east, Mr. Lucas
from the north; Major Houghton was appointed in the year 1790, to sail
for the mouth of the Gambia, and to traverse the country from west to
east: Major Houghton arrived on the coast of Africa November 10, of
that year, immediately commenced his journey, ascended the Gambia to
Medina, 900 miles (by the water-course) distant from the mouth of the
river, and thence proceeded to Bambouk and to the adjoining kingdom
of Kasson; where, in September 1791, he unfortunately terminated his
travels with his life, near to the town of Jarra. Mr. Park, who was
engaged in the service of the Society, in 1795, more successfully
followed the route of Major Houghton, and further explored to the
banks of the Niger, to Sego, and to Silla, the first of that great
line of populous and commercial cities, dividing the southern from
the northern deserts of Africa; and the very existence of which,
for centuries past, hath been rather matter of rumour than of
information; and been made the subject of philosophic romance,[1]
in default of authentic account and description.
The informations of Mr. Park were communicated to the Society at
their annual Meeting in May 1798.
The year 1798 will ever be noted, as the memorable epoch, when
the researches of this Society announced to the world the course
of the Niger, from west to east; and, after the distance of 2300
years, corroborated the testimony of the Nasamones, and accounts of
Herodotus, contested during that long period by ancient and later
writers, and ultimately rejected within the century past, by the
learned D’Anville. But further, the settlements on its fertile
shores, are by the informations of Park, derived from inquiries so
near to the source, as now greatly to be depended on; at least so far,
as to give assurance of objects of commerce and learned inquiry, that
will amply repay further research. The just motto of the Society is,
“_quod non peractum, pro non inchoato est_;” its exertions and
perseverance answer to it, and it is to be congratulated that the
task is now easy, its accomplishment assured.
The writer of this Essay, not presuming to graft addition or
observation on the intelligent and authentic Journal of Mungo Park,
ventures a single comment, of import to the Society, and in justice
to its agent.
Mr. Park has not only designated the route of _country_ but of
_men_. He hath marked the districts of population covering the great
belt of land intersecting Africa from west to east, and at the same
time hath noted the distinctions of Moor and Negro, in manners,
prejudices, and government. He hath thereby given to the Society
information of the _viaticum_ of character and accomplishments proper
and necessary to ensure the success of _their future agents_: he
hath pointed out the roads to districts and cities of the greatest
interest, and at the same time hath shewn the means of securing
entrance and hospitable reception.
The Society hath availed itself of the intelligence; and a new
emissary, Mr. Horneman, hath given his lesson full effect in an
expedition which is the subject of the present Volume.
Of the further progress of this accomplished traveller, the Editor
forbears to intimate design or suggestion.
The season of mere expectation and conjecture is gone by. It were
idle indeed at this period of actual discovery, to hazard surmise
for future correction on experiment.
At outset of the Society instituted for the purpose of exploring
the Interior of Africa, it might have been proper to set forth,
in glowing colours, all that was rumoured, and all that might be
expected; well were general reports and ingenious inferences suited
to rouze curiosity, to excite adventurous spirit, and to give a
spring to the first movements and purposes of the Institution.
Such incentives are no longer necessary; and knowledge actually
acquired, demands, in the future display, merely accuracy and
precision, as the guides to further success.
The Society is confirmed in its purpose, and assured of its objects
and of the means of attainment.
Its travellers will not in future rush on with zealous but unadvised
curiosity; or hesitate as in the dark, and on unfounded apprehensions;
but, disciplined and educated, proceed with a spirit corrected and
confirmed by knowledge and precaution, towards certain purposes
and ends.
An adventurer may yet fail; but it is presumed the adventure cannot,
unless from failure of the funds and resources of the Society;
which, in this great and opulent country, it would be a calumny
on the generosity and patriotism of its people, for one moment to
anticipate as possible.
Yet let it be remembered, that the extent of our undertakings can
only be commensurate with our means.
Expense and charge attend our present inquiries; and even a more
advantageous extension of our researches apart, demands of much
beyond what our actual numbers and contributions can furnish, will
be necessary to ensure the effect of national advantage, and turn
to public account the successful experiment of an enlightened and
patriotic, but not numerous, Association.
The Society cannot condescend to solicitation; nor is it necessary:
it will suffice, that, emboldened by success, they suggest to their
countrymen, that, under proper patronage, and with the means of
extending their researches, _the conclusion will be of advantage,
to Great Britain—to Africa—and to the World_.
W. YOUNG,
SECRETARY TO THE AFRICAN SOCIETY.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: By Bishop Berkeley.]
=PREFACE TO THE JOURNAL,= _&c._
GIVING SOME ACCOUNT OF MR. FREDERICK HORNEMAN; OF THE PREPARATIONS
FOR HIS VOYAGE; AND OF EVENTS PREVIOUS TO HIS LEAVING CAIRO.
* * * * *
At the time that Mr. Mungo Park, engaged in the service of the
Society instituted for the purpose of exploring the Interior of
Africa, was prosecuting discoveries eastward from the river Gambia,
it was thought proper to extend their researches in another line of
direction, and engage an emissary to explore that great continent,
proceeding westward from the city of Cairo.
Early in the year 1796, Mr. F. Horneman offered himself to the
Committee of the Society for this service; he appeared to be young,
robust, and, in point of constitution and health, suited to a
struggle with different climates and fatigues: in his manner and
conversations he displayed temper, acuteness, and prudence: he was
well apprized of the dangers and difficulties of the enterprize he
was to engage in, and shewed a spirit and zeal for the undertaking,
which strongly recommended him as a proper person to be employed
for the carrying it into effect.
The Committee accordingly engaged his services; and observing in him
such foundation of good ordinary education, as further attainments
might readily be engrafted upon, they sent him, at the expense of
the Society, to Gottingen; there to study the rudiments and writing
of the Arabic language, and, generally, such sciences as (in the
result of due application of the knowledge acquired), might render
any account of his future travels more interesting and useful to
his employers, and to the public.
F. Horneman pursued the requisite studies for several months with
great assiduity, under the tuition of Professors Blumenbach, Heeren,
Hoffman, Tyschen, and Heyne; and in May, 1797, returned to England,
properly instructed for his intended voyage. He was then introduced to
a general meeting of the Society, when his engagement was approved of,
and he was directed to proceed to Egypt with all convenient dispatch.
Passports from Paris were applied for, and granted, permitting him
to pass through France; and in July, 1797, he left London on his
way to Paris.
He was furnished with letters of introduction to several persons of
literary distinction in that capital; and, on arrival, his reception
was liberal and friendly, and proportionate to the lively interest
which was every where taken in his scheme of enterprize, and in the
means of promoting its success. He was invited to a meeting of the
National Institute. The first members of that learned society tendered
their patronage, encouragement, and assistance: Mr. Lalande furnished
him with copies of his “Memoire sur L’Afrique.” Mr. Broussonet
recommended him to Mr. Laroche, appointed Consul for Mogadore; and by
this latter gentleman’s means he made a further and most useful
acquaintance with a Turk of distinction (a native of Tripoly),
then resident at Paris. This Mussulman entered into the motives
and plan of his travels with a liberal approbation, and a zealous
interest in the success; which was little to have been expected from
one of such persuasion and character. He gave Mr. Horneman letters
of introduction, strongly recommending him to the friendship and
protection of several leading Mahommedan merchants at Cairo, who were
in the habits of trade with people of the remotest regions of Africa;
and he added his own advice, and instructions for the journey.
Thus provided, Mr. Horneman, in August, left Paris for Marseilles,
where he embarked the end of the month, and arrived at Alexandria
the middle of September: he staid at Alexandria but a few days,
and then went to Cairo, where he purposed residing some time, to
study the language and manners of the Mograbins, or western Arabs,
with whom he was to associate in his future travels. His own letter
will best describe his further progress.
(TRANSLATION.)
“SIR, _Cairo, August_ 31, 1798.
“In my last letter I mentioned my intentions of leaving Cairo about
the end of May. The plague beginning to rage in the month of April,
it became a proper and necessary precaution not only to defer my
journey, but absolutely to shut myself up in my house. My zeal for
the undertaking I have engaged in, would have led me to break through
this confinement and leave the city, with a view to join the merchants
at their place of rendezvous, whence they were directly to depart for
Fezzan, had not obstacles arising from the difficulty of procuring the
necessary credits for my equipment prevented my immediate procedure.
“As soon as from abatement of the pestilence, I could safely
go abroad, I met and renewed my acquaintance with several of the
caravan, who remained in the city, expecting the return of others
from Mecca. A French commercial house, on whom I had no letters of
credit or other claim to confidence, than what arose from private
friendship and esteem, having handsomely offered such advance of
monies as I might require, I was enabled to prepare for my journey,
and set out with this caravan, as soon as complete and ready for
departure. All these designs were suddenly frustrated by the arrival
of the French on the coast of Egypt. Those who formed the caravan
at Cairo quickly dispersed; that from Mecca coming to join it was
not yet arrived: myself and other Europeans were seized and confined
in the castle, rather as a place of refuge from the indignation and
fanaticism of the populace, than as a prison, and we remained there
until the arrival of the French at Cairo.
“Soon after their coming, I made acquaintance with two of their
learned men, Berthollet and Monge, they liberated and presented
me to the Commander in Chief, and he received me with every mark
of attention and goodness. His regard for science, and esteem
of learned men are too well known to render it necessary for me
to expatiate on these high qualities. He promised me protection,
he offered me money or whatever was requisite to my undertaking,
and he directed the necessary passports to be prepared for me.
“I lost no time in seeking out my friends, the merchants of Fezzan,
and renewing my connections with them. Gradually as the public
tranquillity became assured, they returned, one by one into the city,
till the whole were again assembled; and fifteen days have now passed,
since we have been making preparations for our final departure,
actually fixed for the day after to-morrow.
“Commonly those who engage in an extraordinary enterprise, consider
means yet more extraordinary, as requisite to the success of the
undertaking: my opinion, and therewith procedure will be founded
on directly the contrary proposition. The plan which I have chalked
out for my journey will be simple and easy to pursue. You shall have
it in a single line, “it is to travel as a Mahommedan merchant of
the caravan.” I am assured that under such character, I can travel
with the same surety as the natives of the country.
“Many of the caravan having been at Mecca, are aware that there
are numbers of good Mussulmen from various countries who speak not
Arabic, and who have different usages and customs; and thus simply
attaining a knowledge of certain religious ceremonies and prayers,
there is no difficulty in passing generally as a Mahommedan; for
as to a certain less equivocal criterion of a personal nature,
the delicacy of Mahommedan manners precludes any danger of inquiry.
“To travel as a Christian, will perhaps be impracticable for at
least five years to come, for it is incredible how deep and strong
an impression the expedition of the French has made on the minds of
the pilgrims to and from Mecca: dispersed to their several homes they
will carry an aggravated prejudice against Christians far and wide,
and to the very heart of Africa.
“Should it be objected to me, that I risk a similar fate with that
of Major Houghton, by travelling as a trader, my answer is, “that
by travelling as a Mahommedan trader, I shall never travel alone;
and with those too of the caravan, considered as one of the least
of its merchants.
“In respect to my astronomical instruments, I shall take special
care never to be discovered in the act of observation; should
those instruments, however, attract notice, the answer is ready,
“they are articles for sale;” nor is there fear that I should
be deprived of them, whilst master of my price. My comrades know the
value of gold at least better than myself. In a word, the merchants
of our Fezzan caravan, are men of wealth, integrity, and enterprise;
but Mahommedans, the most prejudiced and fanatic.
“I have not yet fixed or methodized my design, as to further
journey into the interior of Africa; but I have made acquaintance
with a man who has been at Bornou and Cashna, a place, from every
account which I can collect, and particularly from the Jalabs,
deserving my immediate attention after arrival at Fezzan.
“I expect to be at Fezzan by the beginning of November, and I
should propose in the next year, setting out for the Agades and
Cashna, residing in and exploring those countries during ten months,
and then returning _viâ_ Mecca or Senegambia. Should any necessity
of the case oblige me to return to Tripoly, I should not consider my
tour as complete, but (with permission of the Society,) hold myself
in readiness for a further undertaking.
“I will write again from Fezzan, if I can do so without danger;
the safest plan that occurs, is to pack up some bale of goods with
an ordinary letter of advice in Arabic, making my real dispatch the
package or covering of some article of trade.
“Pray write to and direct the English Consul at Tripoly,
or elsewhere, never to make inquiry after me of the traders from
Fezzan, and particularly when conveying any thing from me consigned
to you. These people are of a very jealous and inquisitive temper,
and any inquiries made after me by a Christian, might raise a thousand
suspicions, and prove even of fatal consequence to me.
“Nay, should yourselves not hear of me these three years, make
no inquiry. Under such precaution, my danger will not be that I
travel as a trader and Mahommedan, but such only as results from
climate and ordinary perils of voyage in these countries; which I
trust successfully to oppose, with a good constitution and strength
of body, and with courage and suitable temper of mind.
“It remains only for me to recommend to the Committee, the man whom
I mentioned in a former letter. I met with the person in question,
Joseph Frendenburgh, who was born in Germany, just on the eve of his
intended departure from Cairo for his native country. I engaged and
employed him as interpreter; and, pleased with the office, he offered
to continue in my service, and attend me in my expedition. He had been
ten or twelve years past forced to embrace the Mohammedan religion;
had three times made the voyage to Mecca, and spoke perfectly both
the Arabic and Turkish languages; in short, he was precisely the man
that suited me. The connection with him will ensure me character and
confidence from others, and indeed, without him, I should scarcely be
able to pursue my journey, without actually embracing and professing
Mahommedanism myself, I now well know him on ten months experience,
and in just reliance on him, have no apprehension of the calamity
incident to travellers, of being robbed by their servants.
“I shall consign to him the care of my camels and my horses,
(for we merchants of the caravan all go armed, and on horseback,)
he will further have the care of my merchandize, and altogether,
I shall have leisure for my inquiries, and for attending to the
general objects of my undertaking. The demands of this man are far
from exorbitant, and I request of the Society, the attending to a
just remuneration of his services, and specially, if in case of
my death, he should faithfully preserve my journals and papers,
and proceed with them to England.
“I have been in some doubt as to the means of sending this letter,
but on my request, General Bonaparte has with great goodness,
himself condescended to take charge of its safe conveyance.
“I hope my next will be from Fezzan, and that after three years,
I shall be enabled to give account of the interior of Africa.
“I am, &c. &c. &c.
“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”
_To Mr. Edwards, Secretary to the Society, instituted for exploring
the interior of Africa._
The above letter was transmitted to the African Committee, under the
seal of General Bonaparte, who in addition to other marks of favour
and protection shewn to the enterprise of Horneman, took on himself
the care of forwarding his dispatches, as above stated.
Mr. Horneman’s Journal of his Travels from Cairo to Fezzan commences
five days after the date of this letter. It was by him written in
German, and in that language transmitted to the Committee of the
African Society. Under their direction, a translation of it was made
by a native of Germany, sufficiently versed in the English language,
to render the sense of the original with truth and perspicuity;
and, on collating his version, it appears to have been executed with
fidelity and care. Some correction of foreign idioms and style was
yet required: the Secretary, in performing this duty of Editor, has
been attentive to the preserving not only the genuine descriptions,
remarks, and precise meaning of the traveller, but likewise
the spirit, and (at the same time) simplicity of narrative which
characterizes his Journal; and, it is presumed, that on reference to
the original, the translation offered in its present form will _yet_
appear to be as nearly literal, as the different idioms and context
of the English and German languages will admit of.
To the Journal now printed is added an Appendix, containing,
1st. A Note, on Mr. Horneman’s Description of the Country and
Antiquities of Siwah; with Reference to ancient Accounts of the
Oasis and Temple of Ammon; by the Secretary, Sir William Young,
Bart. F. R. S.
2d. A Memoir, containing various informations respecting the interior
of Africa, transmitted from Mourzouk, in 1799, by F. Horneman.
3d. Geographical Elucidations of the Travels and of the Informations
of F. Horneman, with Maps, by Major James Rennell, F. R. S.
4th. Remarks on the Language of Siwah, in a Letter to the Right
Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, P. R. S. by William Marsden, Esq. F. R. S.
[Illustration: _The ROUTE of_ MR. FREDERICK HORNEMANN, _from_ Ægypt
_to_ Fezzan; _with the_ Coasts & Countries _adjacent_,
Compiled _by_ J. Rennell, _1802_.
_Published according to Act of Parliament by_ J. Rennell, _April
5th. 1802._
_J. Walker Sculpt._]
TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
* * * * *
=CHAPTER I.=
=VOYAGE FROM CAIRO TO AUGILA.=
* * * * *
SECTION I.
_To Ummesogeir._
The merchants of Augila had appointed their rendezvous to be held
at _Kardaffi_, a village in the vicinity of Cairo; where I joined
them on September the 5th, 1798, and leaving that place the same
day, in about an hour we reached the great body of the caravan,
which yearly returns from Mecca through Cairo and Fezzan, to the
western countries of Africa. The caravan was waiting for us at a
small village called _Baruasch_: we halted at some little distance
from the pilgrims, and encamped until the next morning; when the
monotonous kettle-drum of our Sheik awakened us before rise of the
sun, with summons to proceed on our journey.
I had not under-rated the difficulties of the journey; I was aware
that many must arise, especially affecting myself, never having
before travelled with a caravan, and being little acquainted with
the customs and manners of those who composed it. We had travelled
from day-break till noon, and no indication appeared of halt or
refreshment, when I observed the principal and richest merchants
gnawing a dry biscuit and some onions, as they went on; and was then,
for the first time, informed, that it was not customary to unload
the camels for regular repast, or to stop during the day-time, but
in cases of urgent necessity. This my first inconvenience, was soon
remedied by the hospitality of some Arabs who were riding near me,
and who invited me to partake of their provisions.
Soon after sun-set, our Sheik gave the signal for halting; and we
pitched our tents.
My dragoman, or interpreter, might, even in Europe, have passed for
a good cook; and from remains of the provision which our hospitable
friends at Cairo had supplied, was preparing an excellent supper, when
an old Arab of Augila, observing his preparations, and that myself
was unemployed, addressed me nearly as follows: “Thou art young,
and yet dost not assist in preparing the meal of which thou art to
partake: such, perhaps, may be a custom in the land of infidels,
but is not so with us, and especially on a journey: thanks to God,
we are not, in this desert, dependent on others, as are those poor
pilgrims, but eat and drink what we ourselves provide, and as we
please. Thou oughtest to learn every thing that the meanest Arab
performs, that thou mayest be enabled to assist others in cases of
necessity; otherwise, thou wilt be less esteemed, as being of less
value than a mere woman; and many will think they may justly deprive
thee of every thing in thy possession, as being unworthy to possess
any thing: (adding sarcastically,) perhaps thou art carrying a large
sum of money, and payest those men well.” This remonstrance was
not thrown away. I immediately assisted in every thing that was not
beyond my force; and proportionally gained on the good opinion and
esteem of my fellow-travellers, and was no longer considered as a
weak and useless idler in their troop.
The next morning we set out early, and after a march of four hours,
arrived at _Wadey-el-Latron_. The signal had been made to halt,
for the purpose of collecting fresh water, when a troop of Bedouins
appeared at some distance in front, and created great alarm in
our caravan. Our Sheik, or leader, had acquired, and deserved, the
veneration and confidence of his followers, as much from his known
prudence and valour, as from his dignity of Iman. He immediately
ordered us to occupy the spot affording water, and himself, with
about twenty Arabs and Tuaricks, advanced to reconnoitre the ground
where the Bedouins had appeared: they had now retreated wholly out of
sight, and we had time to cook and fill our water bags. We could not,
however, consider this as a proper or safe station for the night;
accordingly at four o’clock we proceeded on our march; and about
eight in the evening reached the foot of a sand-hill, and encamped
in great disorder, created by the late alarm;—making no fires, and
using every precaution to avoid notice or discovery of our retreat.
The next morning, September 8th, we entered the Desert, which may be
considered as the boundary of Egypt; and after travelling thirteen
hours, encamped on a tract of land by the Arabs called _Muhabag_.
The ensuing day, our journey was less fatiguing; in four hours
and a half we reached _Mogara_, a watering-place on the verge of a
fruitful valley.
The water collected for the use of the caravans is carried in bags
made of goat-skins, unripped in the middle, and stripped from the
animal as entire as possible; those made at Soudan are the strongest
and best; water may be preserved in them for five days, without
acquiring any bad taste: the bags of an inferior manufacture give
an ill taste, and a smell of the leather, from the second day. To
render the skins flexible and lasting, they are greased on the inside
with butter, and by the Arabs sometimes with oil, which latter gives
quickly a rancid taste, and to any but an Arab, renders the water
scarcely fit for drinking.
The sixth day we had again a difficult and tiresome journey of twelve
hours, without halting; towards the close of our march, the horse of
an Arab near me falling sick, and being unable to proceed at the same
pace as the caravan, I kept in the rear to attend him, and give such
assistance as might be required. On our coming up with the caravan at
its evening encampment, the Arab immediately sent by his slave, two
pieces of dried camel’s flesh, with a proper compliment, requesting
my acceptance of the present, as some return for the civility I had
shewn. I was in an instant surrounded by a number of meaner Arabs,
who eyed with avidity the meat I had received, and on my dividing
it amongst them, seemed greatly surprised, that I should so readily
part with what, in their estimation, was so great a dainty.
Circumstances light and trivial often delineate manners, and
characterize nations: the method of equipment, and the means of
sustenance which the Arab uses in journeying through these deserts,
may furnish a subject of just curiosity, and certainly of special
use to such as may undertake a similar expedition.
The Arab sets out on his journey with a provision of flour, kuskasa,
onions, mutton suet, and oil or butter; and some of the richer class
add to this store, a proportion of biscuit, and of dried flesh. As
soon as the camels are halted and the baggage unladen, the drivers
and slaves dig a small hole in the sands wherein to make a fire,
and then proceed in search of wood, and of three stones to be
placed round the cavity, for the purpose of confining the embers
and supporting the cauldron. The cauldron, (which is of copper,)
being set over, the time till the water begins to boil is employed
first in discussing, and then in preparing, what the mess of the
day shall consist of. The ordinary meal is of _hasside_, a stiff
farinaceous pap, served up in a copper dish, which, in due economy
of utensils and luggage, is at other times used for serving water
to the camels: when this pap or pudding is thus served on table, it
is diluted with a soup poured on it, enriched or seasoned with the
_monachie_ dried and finely pulverized. At other times, the dinner
consists of flour kneaded into a strong dough, which being divided
into small cakes and boiled, affords a species of hard dumplins
called _mijotta_. A yet better repast is made of dried meat boiled
together with mutton suet, onions sliced thin, crumbled biscuits,
salt, and a good quantity of pepper. The meat is at dinner time taken
out and reserved for the master, and the broth alone is the mess of
his followers. The slaughtering of a camel affords a feast to the
camel drivers and slaves. The friends of the owner of the beast have
a preference in the purchase; and after dividing the carcase, every
slave comes in for a share: no part of the animal capable of being
gnawed by human tooth, is suffered to be lost; the very bones pass
through various hands and mouths, before they are thrown away. They
make sandals of the skin, and they weave the hair into twine.
It is not on every occasion that time can be allowed, or materials
found, for dressing victuals: in the anticipation of such an
exigency, the traveller provides a food called _simitée_: it
consists of barley boiled until it swells, then dried in the sun,
and then further dried over the fire; and lastly, being ground
into a powder, it is mixed with salt, pepper, and carraway-seed,
and put into a leather bag: when it is to be used, it is kneaded
into a dough, with just water enough to give it consistency, and is
served up with butter or oil. If further diluted with water, then
dates are added to the meal, and it is called _rouin_. Such is the
food of the traveller when there is a scarcity of fuel or of water;
and none can be expended in boiling. I was often, for days together,
without other food than this cold farinaceous pap, mixed with a few
dates. Onions and red Spanish pepper are the general and the only
seasonings of each meal, with the addition of salt.
On the seventh day, after a march of four hours, we reached
_Biljoradec_, commonly called _Jahudie_, a term implying that
the water is bad, or that other water is not to be found but at a
considerable distance.
The three following days, travelling occasionally in the night, we
were forty hours in actual journey. On the first of these, (being the
ninth day since leaving the vicinity of Cairo,) we reached the chain
of mountains which bounded the uniform desert through which we had
passed. On the tenth, mounting these hills, I observed the plain on
their summit to consist of a saline mass spread over so large a tract
of surface, that in one direction no eye could reach its termination,
and what might be called its width, I computed at several miles. The
clods of salt discoloured with sand lay thick and close, and gave
to this vast plain the appearance of a recently ploughed field.
On the summit of this eminence, and almost in the middle of this
saline tract, (on computation of its width) I discovered a spring;
and the passage of Herodotus[2] occurring to my mind, in which he
mentions springs of fresh water on the salt hills, I eagerly made
up to its brink. I found it edged with salt: some poor pilgrims
attending me tasted the water, but it was so saturated with saline
matter, as to be wholly unfit for drink.
On the eleventh day (September the 15th), we came to an inhabited
spot; after five hours march arriving at the small village of
_Ummesogeir_.