CHAPTER LVII.

It was in this Sacramento Valley, just referred to, that a deal of the

most lucrative of the early gold mining was done, and you may still see,

in places, its grassy slopes and levels torn and guttered and disfigured

by the avaricious spoilers of fifteen and twenty years ago. You may see

such disfigurements far and wide over California--and in some such

places, where only meadows and forests are visible--not a living

creature, not a house, no stick or stone or remnant of a ruin, and not a

sound, not even a whisper to disturb the Sabbath stillness--you will find

it hard to believe that there stood at one time a fiercely-flourishing

little city, of two thousand or three thousand souls, with its newspaper,

fire company, brass band, volunteer militia, bank, hotels, noisy Fourth

of July processions and speeches, gambling hells crammed with tobacco

smoke, profanity, and rough-bearded men of all nations and colors, with

tables heaped with gold dust sufficient for the revenues of a German

principality--streets crowded and rife with business--town lots worth

four hundred dollars a front foot--labor, laughter, music, dancing,

swearing, fighting, shooting, stabbing--a bloody inquest and a man for

breakfast every morning--everything that delights and adorns existence

--all the appointments and appurtenances of a thriving and prosperous and

promising young city,--and now nothing is left of it all but a lifeless,

homeless solitude. The men are gone, the houses have vanished, even the

name of the place is forgotten. In no other land, in modern times, have

towns so absolutely died and disappeared, as in the old mining regions of

California.

It was a driving, vigorous, restless population in those days. It was a

curious population. It was the only population of the kind that the

world has ever seen gathered together, and it is not likely that the

world will ever see its like again. For observe, it was an assemblage of

two hundred thousand young men--not simpering, dainty, kid-gloved

weaklings, but stalwart, muscular, dauntless young braves, brimful of

push and energy, and royally endowed with every attribute that goes to

make up a peerless and magnificent manhood--the very pick and choice of

the world's glorious ones. No women, no children, no gray and stooping

veterans,--none but erect, bright-eyed, quick-moving, strong-handed young

giants--the strangest population, the finest population, the most gallant

host that ever trooped down the startled solitudes of an unpeopled land.

And where are they now? Scattered to the ends of the earth--or

prematurely aged and decrepit--or shot or stabbed in street affrays--or

dead of disappointed hopes and broken hearts--all gone, or nearly all

--victims devoted upon the altar of the golden calf--the noblest holocaust

that ever wafted its sacrificial incense heavenward. It is pitiful to

think upon.

It was a splendid population--for all the slow, sleepy, sluggish-brained

sloths staid at home--you never find that sort of people among pioneers

--you cannot build pioneers out of that sort of material. It was that

population that gave to California a name for getting up astounding

enterprises and rushing them through with a magnificent dash and daring

and a recklessness of cost or consequences, which she bears unto this

day--and when she projects a new surprise, the grave world smiles as

usual, and says "Well, that is California all over."

But they were rough in those times! They fairly reveled in gold, whisky,

fights, and fandangoes, and were unspeakably happy. The honest miner

raked from a hundred to a thousand dollars out of his claim a day, and

what with the gambling dens and the other entertainments, he hadn't a

cent the next morning, if he had any sort of luck. They cooked their own

bacon and beans, sewed on their own buttons, washed their own shirts

--blue woollen ones; and if a man wanted a fight on his hands without any

annoying delay, all he had to do was to appear in public in a white shirt

or a stove-pipe hat, and he would be accommodated. For those people

hated aristocrats. They had a particular and malignant animosity toward

what they called a "biled shirt."

It was a wild, free, disorderly, grotesque society! Men--only swarming

hosts of stalwart men--nothing juvenile, nothing feminine, visible

anywhere!

In those days miners would flock in crowds to catch a glimpse of that

rare and blessed spectacle, a woman! Old inhabitants tell how, in a

certain camp, the news went abroad early in the morning that a woman was

come! They had seen a calico dress hanging out of a wagon down at the

camping-ground--sign of emigrants from over the great plains. Everybody

went down there, and a shout went up when an actual, bona fide dress was

discovered fluttering in the wind! The male emigrant was visible. The

miners said:

"Fetch her out!"

He said: "It is my wife, gentlemen--she is sick--we have been robbed of

money, provisions, everything, by the Indians--we want to rest."

"Fetch her out! We've got to see her!"

"But, gentlemen, the poor thing, she--"

"FETCH HER OUT!"

He "fetched her out," and they swung their hats and sent up three rousing

cheers and a tiger; and they crowded around and gazed at her, and touched

her dress, and listened to her voice with the look of men who listened to

a memory rather than a present reality--and then they collected

twenty-five hundred dollars in gold and gave it to the man, and swung

their hats again and gave three more cheers, and went home satisfied.

Once I dined in San Francisco with the family of a pioneer, and talked

with his daughter, a young lady whose first experience in San Francisco

was an adventure, though she herself did not remember it, as she was only

two or three years old at the time. Her father said that, after landing

from the ship, they were walking up the street, a servant leading the

party with the little girl in her arms. And presently a huge miner,

bearded, belted, spurred, and bristling with deadly weapons--just down

from a long campaign in the mountains, evidently-barred the way, stopped

the servant, and stood gazing, with a face all alive with gratification

and astonishment. Then he said, reverently:

"Well, if it ain't a child!" And then he snatched a little leather sack

out of his pocket and said to the servant:

"There's a hundred and fifty dollars in dust, there, and I'll give it to

you to let me kiss the child!"

That anecdote is true.

But see how things change. Sitting at that dinner-table, listening to

that anecdote, if I had offered double the money for the privilege of

kissing the same child, I would have been refused. Seventeen added years

have far more than doubled the price.

And while upon this subject I will remark that once in Star City, in the

Humboldt Mountains, I took my place in a sort of long, post-office single

file of miners, to patiently await my chance to peep through a crack in

the cabin and get a sight of the splendid new sensation--a genuine, live

Woman! And at the end of half of an hour my turn came, and I put my eye

to the crack, and there she was, with one arm akimbo, and tossing

flap-jacks in a frying-pan with the other.

And she was one hundred and sixty-five [Being in calmer mood, now, I

voluntarily knock off a hundred from that.--M.T.] years old, and hadn't a

tooth in her head.

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