Below the high moors which enclose the bay, those distant sleepy

uplands where the keels of the cumulus clouds are grounded, there are

saline meadows, lush and warm, where ditches serpentine between

barriers of meadowsweet, briers and fat grasses. Nearer to the sea the

levels are of moist sand covered with a close matting of thyme, and

herbage as close and resilient as moss, levels that are not green, like

fields, but golden, and of a texture that reflects the light, so that

these plains seem to have their own brightness.

The sea plains finish in the sandhills. In this desert you may press a

hand into the body of earth, and feel its heat and pulse. The west wind

pours among the dunes, a warm and heavy torrent. There is no need to

make a miracle of the appearance of life on our earth. Life was at the

happy incidence of the potent elements on such a strand as this.

Aphrodite was no myth. Our mother here gave birth to her.

The sea is kept from the dunes by a high ridge of blue water-worn

pebbles, and beyond the pebbles at low water is the wet strand over

which she came wading to give the earth children in her own likeness.

The Boy and Miss Muffet beside me are no surprise. They are proper to

the place. The salt water and the sand are still on their brown limbs,

and in the Boy's serious eyes and Miss Muffet's smile there is

something outside my knowledge; but I know that in the depth of that

mystery is security and content.

There is a fear I have, though, when they trip it over the solid and

unquestionable stones, and leave the stones to fly off into the wind

down that shining entrance to the deep. For the strand has no

substance. Their feet move over a void in which far down I see another

sky than ours. They go where I doubt that I can follow. I cannot leave

my hold upon the rocks and enter the place to which their late and

aerial spirits are native. It is plain the earth is not a solid body.

As their bodies, moving over the bright vacuity, grow unsubstantial and

elfin with distance, and they approach that line where the surf

glimmers athwart the radiant void, I have a sudden fear that they may

vanish quite, and only their laughter come at me mockingly from the

near invisible air. They will have gone back to their own place.

VI. The Pit Mouth

There was Great Barr, idle, still, and quiet. Through the Birmingham

suburbs, out into the raw, bleak winter roads between the hedges, quite

beyond the big town smoking with its enterprising labours, one

approached the village of calamity with some awe and diffidence. You

felt you were intruding; that you were a mere gross interloper, coming

through curiosity, that was not excused by the compunction you felt, to

see the appearance of a place that had tragedy in nearly all its homes.

Young men streamed by on bicycles in the same direction, groups were

hurrying there on foot.

The road rose in a mound to let the railway under, and beyond the far

dip was the village, an almost amorphous group of mean red dwellings

stuck on ragged fields about the dominant colliery buildings. Three

high, slim chimneys were leisurely pouring smoke from the grotesque

black skeleton structures above the pits. The road ran by the boundary,

and was packed with people, all gazing absorbed and quiet into the

grounds of the colliery; they were stacked up the hedge banks, and the

walls and trees were loaded with boys.

A few empty motor-cars of the colliery directors stood about. A

carriage-horse champed its bit, and the still watchers turned at once

to that intrusive sound. Around us, a lucid winter landscape (for it

had been raining) ran to the distant encompassing hills which lifted

like low ramparts of cobalt and amethyst to a sky of luminous saffron

and ice-green, across which leaden clouds were moving. The country had

that hard, coldly radiant appearance which always impresses a sad man

as this world's frank expression of its alien disregard; this world not

his, on which he has happened, and must endure with his trouble for a

brief time.

As I went through the press of people to the colliery gates, the women

in shawls turned to me, first with annoyance that their watching should

be disturbed, and then with some dull interest. My assured claim to

admittance probably made them think I was the bearer of new help

outside their little knowledge; and they willingly made room for me to

pass. I felt exactly like the interfering fraud I was. What would I not

have given then to be made, for a brief hour, a nameless

miracle-worker.

In the colliery itself was the same seeming apathy. There was nothing

to show in that yard, black with soddened cinders and ash muck, where

the new red-brick engine-houses stood, that somewhere half a mile

beneath our feet were thirty men, their only exit to the outer world

barred by a subterranean fire. Nothing showed of the fire but a whitish

smoke from a ventilating shaft; and a stranger would not know what that

signified. But the women did. Wet with the rain showers, they had been

standing watching that smoke all night, and were watching it still, for

its unceasing pour to diminish. Constant and unrelenting, it streamed

steadily upward, as though it drew its volume from central fires that

would never cease.

The doors of the office were thrown open, and three figures emerged.

They broke into the listlessness of that dreary place, where nothing

seemed to be going on, with a sudden real purpose, fast but unhurried,

and moved towards the shaft. Three Yorkshire rescue experts--one of

them to die later--with the Hamstead manager explaining the path they

should follow below with eager seriousness. "Figures of fun"! They had

muzzles on their mouths and noses, goggles on their eyes, fantastic

helms, and queer cylinders and bags slung about them. As they went up

the slope of wet ash, quick and full of purpose, their comical gear and

coarse dress became suddenly transfigured; and the silent crowd cheered

emotionally that little party of forlorn hope.

They entered the cage, and down they went. Still it was difficult for

me to think that we were fronting tragedy, for no danger showed. An

hour and more passed in nervous and dismal waiting. There was a signal.

Some men ran to the pit-head carrying hot bricks and blankets. The

doctors took off their coats, and arranged bottles and tinkling

apparatus on chairs stuck in the mud. The air smelt of iodoform. A

cloth was laid on the ground from the shaft to the engine-house, and

stretchers were placed handy. The women, some carrying infants, broke

rank. That quickly up-running rope was bringing the first news. The

rope stopped running and the cage appeared. Only the rescue party came

out, one carrying a moribund cat. They knew nothing; and the

white-faced women, with hardly repressed hysteria, took again their

places by the engine-house. So we passed that day, watching the place

from which came nothing but disappointment. Occasionally a child, too

young to know it was adding to its mother's grief, would wail

querulously. There came a time when I and all there knew that to go

down that shaft was to meet with death. The increasing exhaustion and

pouring sweat of the returning rescue parties showed that. Yet the

miners who were not selected to go down were angry; they violently

abused the favouritism of the officials who would not let all risk

their lives.

I have a new regard for my fellows since Great Barr. About you and me

there are men like that. There is nothing to distinguish them. They

show no signs of greatness. They have common talk. They have coarse

ways. They walk with an ugly lurch. Their eyes are not eager. They are

not polite. Their clothes are dirty. They live in cheap houses on cheap

food. They call you "sir." They are the great unwashed, the mutable

many, the common people. The common people! Greatness is as common as

that. There are not enough honours and decorations to go round. Talk of

the soldier! _Vale_ to Welsby of Normanton! He was a common miner. He

is dead. His fellows were in danger, their wives were white-faced and

their children were crying, and he buckled on his harness and went to

the assault with no more thought for self than great men have in a

great cause; and he is dead. I saw him go to his death. I wish I could

tell you of Welsby of Normanton.

I left that place where the star-shine was showing the grim skeleton of

the shaft-work overhead in the night, and where men moved about below

in the indeterminate dark like dismal gnomes. There was a woman whose

cry, when Welsby died, was like a challenge.

Next morning, in Great Barr, some blinds were down, the street was

empty. Children, who could see no reason about them why their fathers

should not return as usual, were playing foot-ball by the tiny church.

A group of women were still gazing at the grotesque ribs and legs of

the pit-head staging as though it were a monster without ruth.

_November 1907._

VII. Initiation

As to what the Boy will become, that is still with his stars; and

though once we thought he was much impressed by the dignity of the man

controlling a road roller, for it seemed it would be well to be that

slow herald in front with a little red flag, he has shown but the

faintest regard for the offices of policeman, engine-driver, and

soldier. It is clear there is but one good thing left for his choice,

and so the house is littered with drawings of ships. There has been

some advance from that early affair of black angles which, without

explanation, might have stood for anything, but was meant for a cutter.

Now, in a manner which a careless visitor could think was the hauteur

of an artist who is too sure of himself to care what you think of his

work, but is really acute shyness, he will present you at short notice

with a sketch in colours of a topsail schooner beating off a lee shore,

if your variety of beard does not rouse his suspicion. As art, such

paintings have their faults; but as delineations of that sort of ship

they have technical exactitude not common even in the studios.

In fact, he has found an old manual of seamanship, and the

illustrations get more attention than some people give to Biblical

subjects. During vacant afternoons there is an uncanny calm in the

house, a silence which makes people think they have forgotten something

important; but it is only that the Boy is absent with the argonauts. He

is in tow of Argo, as it were, one of its heroes, surging astern in a

large easy-chair, viewing golden landfalls that are still under their

early spell in seas that ships have never sailed. There are no such

voyages in later life, none with quite that glamour, for we have tried

and know. Lucky Boy, sailing the greatest voyage of his life!

Occasionally, when a real ship is home again, and some one calls to see

if we still live there, the Boy is allowed to go to bed late, and there

he sits and fills his mind.

"And what," said this deponent one evening, "about taking His Nibs with

me?" (There was some sea to be crossed.) Most certainly not! Well--!

still--! Would he be all right? But as he got to hear about this it was

hardly so certainly not as it seemed. There are times when he can

concentrate on a subject with awful pertinacity, though the occasions

are infrequent. This was one, however. He went. I knew he would

go--when he heard about it.

A day came when we were at the railway station, and he was to cross the

sea for the first time. He was quite collected. His quiet eye

enumerated the baggage in one careless side-glance which detected there

was a strap undone and that a walking-stick was missing. In all that

crowded tumult converging on the stroke of the hour his seemed to be

the only apart and impassive face, and I began to think he was

indifferent; he merely looked at the cover of one magazine, and then

turned to the window and observed the world leaping past with the

detachment of a small immortal who was watching man's fleeting affairs.

Nothing to do with him.

Once he caught my intent eye--for I thought he was a trifle pale--and

then he passed a radiant wink, and one of his dangling legs began to

swing as though that were the sole limb to be joyful. An hour later,

his face still to the glass, he was shaking with internal mirth. I

asked him to let me share it with him. "Did you see that old man at the

station when the train was starting?" he whispered. "He couldn't find

the carriage where his things were--he was running up and down without

a hat. Perhaps he was left behind." What do man's misfortune's matter

to the gods who live for ever?

* * * * *

Through sections of the quayside sheds he caught sight of near funnels,

businesslike with smoke, and a row of ports. It was then I had to tell

him there was plenty of time. "Two funnels," I heard him say in

surprise, and there is no doubt at that moment some of the importance

of the occasion was reflected on myself. That extra funnel told him, I

hope, I was doing this business in no meagre spirit. None of your

single-funnel ships for our affairs. At the quay end of the gangway he

stopped me, interrupting the whole concourse to do so. "Where's that

other bag?" he demanded severely. I was annoyed--like the people who

were following us--but I had to admire him all the same. At his age no

doubt it may be demanded that a ship be put about for a bag left

behind. When this childish egoism is maintained well into life, large

fortunes may be made. It is, perhaps, the only way. As soon as a man

can relate his personal affairs to those of the world, and understands

how unimportant he really is, from that moment he becomes a failure.

Some men never do it, and thus succeed. Therefore I allowed the Boy to

lead me aboard, and so secured a good berth at once, to the envy of

those who were unaided by a child. Already I was informed that, after

due inspection, the steamer had plenty of boats, "so it won't matter if

we sink." In five minutes we had discovered the companions to

everywhere on that ship, and were, I believe, the only passengers who

could find our way about her before she left port.

But a glance seaward, and a word with an officer, gave me a thought or

two, and I broke off the Boy's interesting conversation with a fatherly

French quartermaster to take him where he could at least begin with

some food. "What a lark if there's a storm," laughed His Nibs, removing

a sandwich to say so. The fiddles were on the tables. We were off.

* * * * *

The ship gave a lurch, a ham leaped to the floor, some plates crashed,

and then the row of ports alongside us were darkened by the run of a

wave. The Boy made an exclamation partly stifled, and looked at me

quickly. I did not look at him, but went on with the food. He stopped

eating, and remained with his gaze fixed on the ports, gripping his

chair whenever they went dark. He said nothing about it, but he must

have been thinking pretty hard. "I suppose this is a strong ship, isn't

it?" he questioned once.

As we were about to emerge into the open, the wet, deserted deck fell

away, and a grey wave which looked as aged as death, its white hair

streaming in the wind, suddenly reared over the ship's side, as though

looking for us, and then fled phantom-like, with dire cries. The Boy

shrank back for a moment, horrified, but then moved on. I think I heard

him sigh. It was no summer sea. The dark bales of rain were speeding up

from the south-west, low over waters which looked just what the sea

really is.

I am glad he saw it like that. He hung on in a shelter with a

needlessly tight grip, and there was something of consternation in his

eye. But I enjoyed the cry of surprise he gave once when we were

getting used to it. A schooner passed us, quite close, a midget which

fairly danced over the running hills, lifting her bows and soaring

upwards, light as a bird, and settling in the hollows amid a white

cloud. "Isn't she brave!" said the Boy.

_December 1910._

VIII. The Art of Writing

Whether I placed the writing-pad on my knees in a great chair, or on

the table, or on the floor, nothing happened to it. I can only say that

that morning the paper was full of vile hairs, which the pen kept

getting into its mouth--enough to ruin the goodwill of any pen. Yet all

the circumstances of the room seemed luckily placed for work to flow

with ease; but there was some mysterious and inimical obstruction. The

fire was bright and lively, the familiar objects about the table

appeared to be in their right place. Again I examined the gods of the

table to be sure one had not by mischance broken the magic circle and

interrupted the current of favour for me. They were rightly

orientated--that comic pebble paper-weight Miss Muffet found on the

beach of a distant holiday, the chrysanthemums which were fresh from

that very autumn morning, stuck in the blue vase which must have got

its colour in the Gulf Stream; and the rusty machete blade from Peru,

and the earthenware monkey squatting meekly in his shadowy niche,

holding the time in his hands. The time was going on, too.

I tried all the tricks I knew for getting under way, but the pen

continued to do nothing but draw idle faces and pick up hairs, which it

held firmly in its teeth. Then the second telegram was brought to me.

"What about Balkan article?" it asked, and finished with a studied

insult, after the manner of the editor-kind, whose assurance that the

function of the universe is only fulfilled when they have published the

fact makes them behave as would Jove with a thick-headed immortal.

"These Balkan atrocities will never cease," I said, dropping the

telegram into the fire.

Had I possessed but one of those intelligent manuals which instruct the

innocent in the art, not only of writing, but of writing so well that a

very disappointed and world-weary editor rejoices when he sees the

manuscript, puts his thumbs up and calls for wine, I would have

consulted it. (I should be glad to hear if there is such a book, with a

potent remedy for just common dulness--the usual opaque, gummous, slow,

thick, or fat head.) As for me, I have nothing but a cheap dictionary,

and that I could not find. I raised my voice, calling down the hollow,

dusty, and unfurnished spaces of my mind, summoning my servants, my

carefully chosen but lazy and wilful staff of words, to my immediate

aid. But there was no answer; only the cobwebs moved there, though I

thought I heard a faint buzzing, which might have been a blow-fly. No

doubt my staff--small blame to them--were dreaming somewhere in the

sun, dispersed over several seas and continents.

Well, a suburb of a big town, and such jobs as I find for them to do,

are grey enough for them in winter. I have no doubt some were nooning

it in Algiers, and others were prospecting the South Seas, flattering

themselves, with gross vanity, how well they could serve me there, if

only I would give them a chance with those coloured and lonely islands;

and others were in the cabins of ships far from any land, gossiping

about old times; and these last idle words, it is my experience, are

the most stubborn of the lot, usually ignoring all my efforts to get

them home again and to business. I could call and rage as I chose, or

entreat them, showing them the urgency of my need. But only a useless

and indefinite article came along, as he usually does, hours and hours

before the arrival of a lusty word which could throw about the

suggestions quicker than they may be picked up and examined.

Very well. There was nothing for it but to fill another pipe, and dwell

with some dismay upon such things as, for instance, the way one's light

grows smoky with age. Is there a manual which will help a man to keep

his light shining brightly--supposing he has a light to keep? But if he

has but the cheapest of transient glims, good and bright enough for its

narrow purpose, is it any wonder it burns foul, seeing what business

usually it gets to illuminate in these exciting and hurried times. What

work! I think it would make rebels of the most quiet, unadventurous,

and simple-featured troop of words that ever a man gathered about him

for the plain domestic duties to employ them regularly, for example, in

sweeping up into neat columns such litter as the House of Commons

makes. It would numb the original heart of the bonniest set of words

that rightly used would have made some people happy--sterilize them,

make them anaemic and pasty-faced, so that they would disturb the peace

of mind of all compassionate men who looked upon them. That my own

staff of words refused my summons....

But what was it I said I wanted them for just now? I gazed round the

walls upon the portraits of the great writers of the past, hoping for

inspiration. Useless! Upon Emerson's face there was a faint smile of

most infuriating benevolence. Lamb--but I am getting tired of his

smirk, which might be of irony or kindness. He would look savage enough

today, hearing his constantly returning Dissertation on Roast Pig thump

the door-mat four times a week; for that, he can be assured, is the way

editors would treat it now, and without even preliminary consultations

with lady typist-secretaries. Of the whole gallery of the great I felt

there was not one worth his wall room. They are pious frauds. This

inspiration business is played out. I have never had the worth of the

frames out of those portraits.... Ah, the Balkans. That was it. And of

all the flat, interminable Arctic wastes of bleak wickedness and frozen

error that ever a shivering writer had to traverse....

My head was in my hands, and I was trying to get daylight and direction

into the affair with my eyes shut, when I felt a slight touch on my

arm. "I'm sorry we're in your way. Are you praying? Look who's here."

I looked. It was Miss Muffet who spoke. She shook the gold out of her

eyes and regarded me steadily. Well she knew she had no right there,

for all her look of confident and tender solicitude. The Boy, who is a

little older (and already knows enough to place the responsibility for

intrusion on his sister with her innocent eyes and imperturbable calm

and golden hair), stood a little in the background, pretending to be

engrossed with a magnet, as though he were unaware that he was really

present. Curls hopped about on one leg frankly, knowing that the others

would be blamed for any naughtiness of hers. Her radiant impudence

never needs any apology. What a plague of inconsequential violators of

any necessary peace! When would my lucky words come now?

The Boy probably saw a red light somewhere. "Haven't you finished uncle

we thought you had has a topsail schooner got two or three masts I saw

a fine little engine up in the town today and an aeroplane it was only

seventeen shillings do you think that is too much?"

"I am learning the sailors' hornpipe at school," said Miss Muffet,

slowly and calmly; "you watch my feet. Do I dance it nicely?"

I watched her feet. Now it is but fair to say that when Miss Muffet

dances across a room there is no international crisis in all this world

which would distract any man's frank admiration. When Miss Muffet steps

it on a sunny day, her hair being what it is, and her little feet in

her strap shoes being such as they are, then your mood dances in

accord, and your thoughts swing in light and rhythmic harmony. I got

up. And Curls, who is one of those who must mount stairs laboriously,

secure to the rails--she has black eyes only the bright light of which

is seen through her mane--she reached up for my hand, for she cannot

imitate her sister's hornpipe without holding on.

Miss Muffet reached a corner of the room, and swung round, light as a

fairy, her hands on her hips, and said, "What do you think of that?"

Some of my lucky words instantly returned. I suppose it was more to

their mind. But I had nothing to give them to do. They could just stand

around and look on now, for when Curls seriously imitates her sister,

and then laughs heartily at her own absurd failure, because her feet

are irresponsible, that is the time when you have nothing to do, and

would not do anything if it had to be done....

What time it was the next interruption came--it was another telegram--I

don't know. Time had been obliterated. But then it began to flow again;

though not with a viscid and heavy measure. And when I took up my light

and ready pen, there, standing at eager attention, was all my staff,

waiting the call. What had happened to bring them all back? If the

writers of literary manuals will explain that secret to me, I should

acquire true wealth.

IX. A First Impression

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