From Gothard's glacier-snows to Swabia's bowers.'
Thirteen lovely lakes, of which those of Luzerne, Zug and Zurich are
the nearest and most conspicuous; with a hundred villages scattered
along their banks. On the south, the sublime and gigantic array of
the snowy Alps of Unterwald and the Grisons, even to the borders
of Italy; while on the other hand, 'the view extends into the very
centre of Swabia, presenting a richly-colored relief, over which the
eye of the spectator roves in silent rapture, as the eagle, hovering
in mid air or from his aërie, in some isolated pinnacle of the Alps,
looks down upon the states and kingdoms scattered at his feet. The
sound of sheep-bells from the pastures, mingling with others that,
with a deeper and more distant chime, call the villagers to matins;
the smoke of the first fires, curling in light blue wreaths above
their sheltering woods; the lowing of herds, rushing to their morning
pasture; the mountain peaks, varying in tint and distinctness as
the light oversteps their summits; the glaciers, gradually changing
their snowy glare into a purple, and then a rosy glow; spires and
pinnacles catching the first ray of light, and assuming their wonted
station as land-marks in the scene; sails, half in shade and half in
sunshine, skimming the lakes with their rural produce and population;
the Alpine horn, pealing its signals from the pastoral bergs around;
the pilgrim-troop, with solemn chant and motley costume, bringing
their donations to the confessional of 'Our Lady;' the screams
of the vulture in pursuit of his prey, and many other sights and
sounds which it would be tedious to enumerate, strike the eye and
imagination of the stranger so forcibly, that he feels for a time as
if transported into the mysteries of a new world.'
_This_ is in the early morning; but the most beautiful sight this
evening was a _sea of clouds_ resting on the minor hills, far beneath
us, the peaks just peeping above, like so many little islands in the
ocean. Bodies of vapor also hung, like a canopy, over a part of the
lakes; but with us the sky was perfectly clear, and the sun went down
in cloudless glory; and when the last morsel disappeared, the Germans
of the party doffed their beavers, and made him a low parting bow.
* * * * *
ZURICH, SEPTEMBER 1.--Cooling as was the change of air on the Rhigi,
after such a _warm_ ascent, I never felt brighter than after my
nap in that high position, five thousand seven hundred feet above
the tide. By-the-by, the announcement at nine, of '_La lune! la
lune!_' produced a rush from the supper table, but the keen, bracing
atmosphere soon compelled the ladies to retreat to their rooms. At
'four-and-a-half,' we were roused from our slumbers by a 'trumpet's
martial sound,' announcing the approach of the 'king of day.' It
was beautiful to watch the changing tints of the sky, for an hour
before the sun appeared. Not a cloud was to be seen in the horizon,
for we were far above them; but when the sun's dazzling rays began
to be reflected on the hill-tops, and on the sea of vapor beneath
us, and the mists began to roll away from over the lakes, gradually
disclosing their varied outline, or lifting the canopy from the quiet
towns, the scene was truly exquisite to look upon.
I left the 'Kulm' alone, at six, and came down in an hour and a half,
on the side toward Goldau. This is the village that was destroyed
in 1806, by the fall of a part of Mount Rossberg, when nearly five
hundred persons, and property to the amount of half a million,
were suddenly buried under a mass of earth, which our Mr. Cooper
ascertained to be equal in bulk to all the buildings in New-York put
together![6] From thence I walked along the banks of the Zuder See,
to the curious old town of Zug. This lake is nine miles long. The
road on its banks is lined with fruit trees, and I filled my pockets
with nice fresh prunes for the gathering. Blackberries in profusion
are there also. It was another delicious day, and I experienced none
of the miseries so elegantly described, à la Wordsworth, in the Album
at Alpnach:
'I wandered 'midst the untrodden ways
Beside the banks of Zug;
And there I met with scores of fleas,
And there with many a bug,' etc.
There was ringing of bells, and firing of cannon, which made a
tremendous echo across the lake, but for what cause I did not learn.
At Zug I got dinner, and a direction to a by-path 'across lots' of
potatoe-fields to Horgern, on the Zurich See, where I was to take
the steam-boat to this place. I was alone, and not a soul on the way
could speak any thing but vulgar German. I was stared at as if from
the clouds; and albeit not conscious, like the third Richard, of any
special deformity, yet,
'As I passed, the dogs did bark at me.'
At one village, a cur at the first house commenced the salute, which
was continued to the last, by every
'Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound,
And cur of low degree.'
The folks did not know what I meant by Horgern, because I did not
_roll_ it out with their horrid nasal pronunciation. I stopped to
fill my flask at a spring, and had the luck to learn of a farmer
that I was going just the wrong way. At length, after achieving
another mountain, a splendid landscape was spread out before me; the
beautiful Lake of Zurich, bordered with vineyards, and neat villages,
flanked by another range of snow-capped Alps. With staff in hand, and
knapsack on back, as I approached
'The margin of fair Zurich's waters,'
I met a posse of 'fair Zurich's daughters,' and of course doffed my
beaver to the fairest, whereat they were all vastly tickled, and
perhaps a little jealous of the 'favored one' (a-hem!) but _bon
jour_, or 'alack-well-a-day,' was all I could say, so I proceeded
to the 'margin,' found there was no steam-boat, hired a boat, took
in a lady, who applied for a passage, and pushed off for Zurich. It
was a lovely afternoon, and as pretty a sail as I have yet had. I
had this morning seen the sun rise from the summit of the Rhigi; and
now, after walking thirty-five miles in nine hours, under his hottest
beams, I saw him set on the Lake of Zurich. This lake is nearly
twenty miles long. As we came near the town, we passed several
charming pleasure-gardens, on the very margin of the water. Zurich
is situated much like Geneva, being built on both sides of the rapid
stream which flows out at the head of the lake. It is quite a large
and city-like place, and evidently a flourishing one. I saw several
large buildings in the course of erection. The walks and rides in its
environs, and the sail on its waters, are delightful in the extreme.
It was eight o'clock, P. M., when my boatmen landed me on the dock,
and it was with no little trouble that I found the _Gastoff Zum
Schwardt_, or Hotel de L'Epèe, for my pronunciation of the name would
not pass. It is a good inn, near the lake, but always full, and very
dear. Mine host politely gave me a ticket for the town museum and
reading-room. I had sent my luggage here by diligence from Luzerne,
and expected to meet my Rhigi companion; but he does not appear,
and I must proceed alone to the Rhine and Germany, 'unknowing and
unknown.'
* * * * *
SCHAFFHAUSEN, SEPTEMBER 2. * * * In the ride to this place, I had
my first glimpse of the Rhine, at the village of Eglisan; and now
I have been out to see the celebrated FALLS OF THE RHINE, near
Schaffhausen. I came to them from _above_, and was disappointed; but
I found the right view is from the _bend_, on the other side. The
falls are certainly beautiful and picturesque, but not very grand
or marvellous. If the falls even of the Androscoggin at good old
Brunswick were in Europe, they would be quite a 'lion' in their way.
Having now 'done Switzerland,' you may ask, 'Have we not scenery at
home, equal to any in that land of wonders?' And, at the risk, as Mr.
Cooper says, of being called unpatriotic and 'spoiled by travelling,'
I must say _no_--at least so far as my knowledge goes. The 'Notch'
at the White Mountains is _equal_ in wildness and grandeur to any
scenery in _Scotland_; of course it exceeds any in England, and
probably, the rest of Europe, which is saying a good deal; but
_Swiss_ scenery, _i.e._, among the higher Alps, you must bear in
mind is on a vastly _larger scale_ than either. Think of mountains
two or three times as high as Mount Washington, in some cases rising
almost perpendicularly, or overhanging valleys eight or ten thousand
feet below, their summits tapering off in fantastic shapes, and
pyramids of rock. It is scenery of a different character, probably,
from any other; unique in its wild sublimity. So also with extensive
prospects. Our Catskill Mountain House is scarcely half as high as
the Rhigi Kulm, and as to the relative merits and variety of the
view, I would again refer you to Mr. Cooper's comparison. But with
these exceptions, we need not go abroad to discover 'the beauties of
nature.' Our rivers and river scenery are as much superior to those
of Europe as Niagara is to the Falls of Trenton: even the far-famed
Rhine, if I may judge from this portion of it, is not worthy to be
named with the Connecticut, far less with our noble Hudson.
The Swiss views, recently published, with letter press by Dr.
Beattie, are very correct as well as beautiful specimens of art. They
will give you a much better notion of the country than any book I
know of. You will perceive I visited most of the originals, having
passed through the cantons of Geneva, Wallis, Waadt, Freyburg, Berne,
Luzerne, Unterwalden, Schwyz, Zug, Zurich, and Schaffhausen, beside
an excursion to Savoy and Piedmont. How much Knowles' Mariana says in
the simple exclamation;
'Switzerland is a dear country--Switzerland!'
The name will always recall to me many pleasant associations.
I am not a little puzzled in choosing my route through Germany.
I desire to go through the Tyrol to Bavaria, Munich, Prague, and
Dresden; but it is a long tour, and little travelled. 'The Glyptique'
collection of the fine arts at Munich, and the great Dresden Gallery,
are doubtless worthy of a visit; but on the whole, I think I shall
content myself with the 'sights' of Frankfort, Leipsic, Mayence, the
sail down the Rhine to Coblentz and Cologne, and thence to Aix la
Chapelle, and the cities of Belgium.
* * * * *
GERMANY--THE RHINE.
CARLSRHUE, DUCHY OF BADEN, SEPTEMBER 5.--I was somewhat amused
by a good-looking Irish gentleman, who, after paying some pretty
sensible compliments to the flavor of the _bon vins_ of mine
host at Schaffhausen, very kindly offered me his confidence and
friendship, 'free gratis for nothing,' and proposed a walk to the
falls, observing by the way, while telling me this, that, and the
other, in the between-you-and-me sort of a way, that a rascal,
whom he had unsuspectingly made his bosom friend and room-mate at
Aix-la-Chapelle, had, with equal good nature, very benevolently
relieved him of the care of his purse and gold watch. Poor Pat! I
fear he was in a fair way to be operated upon again, with equal
efficacy.
Schaffhausen is a queer old Germanized town, quiet and dull. The
Hibernian and myself were the only guests at the principal hotel. I
had another dreary night-ride from thence to the frontier of this
duchy, where passports and luggage were duly inspected. At sunset,
I arrived at Offenbourg, a decent town, where I found a very nice
inn, kept by a nice man, who deals in wines and broken English. He
entertained me excellently well, and sent me on to this place this
morning in an extra. We stopped to dine at a town, which I took for
our ultimatum, and leisurely disposed myself accordingly, when lo!
by mere accident, I observed the carriage starting off, with my
portmanteaus safely behind. 'Ou allez vous?'--'à Carlsrhue!' So much
for being among people of a strange tongue.
There seemed to be a uniformity of costume in several of the towns.
Red vests and breeches and broad-brimmed, hats, were universal
among men and boys; _i.e._, of the peasantry only, for _they_ are a
distinct order of beings on the continent. The most laborious part
of farming, etc., is performed by the women; the 'fair sex' here are
expected to hold the plough, rake the hay, and dig the potatoes. What
brutes must the men be!
Carlsrhue, the duke of Baden's capital and residence, is one of the
neatest towns I have seen on the continent. The streets are broad,
straight, and well-paved, and the buildings all of stone, painted
cream-color. The chateau of the duke is in the form of a crescent,
opposite a block of private houses in similar style, thus making an
elegant circle, with a garden and orangery in the centre. In the rear
of the chateau, is an extensive hunting-park. The whole of this duchy
appears to be one level plain, not specially fertile; and there is
little to remark in riding over it, except the extensive squadrons of
geese, tended by the lasses like a flock of sheep, and the battalions
of _ganders_, in the shape of the duke's soldiers.
Our introduction to his Serene Lowness, the Rhine, did not give us
the most favorable impression of his majesty. If one should see that
part of the river between Switzerland and Mayence, and no more,
he would pronounce its far-famed beauties all a joke. It passes
here through this flat uninteresting duchy, the banks affording
nothing more attractive than pine bushes, six feet high; and the
river itself has lost its primitive attraction at Schaffhausen, for
here it is of a brown muddy color, instead of its once transparent
green. Occasionally, however, the monotony of the shores is relieved
by a pretty town, which, the atmosphere being clear, and the view
unobstructed, may be seen from a great distance. Among others, we
passed Spires and Worms, noted for their cathedrals, which are
very conspicuous objects from the river; and Manheim, a handsome
town, with a fine palace, (now chiefly in ruins,) in the midst of
a beautiful park. Near Manheim is Heidelberg, celebrated for its
university, which is the oldest in Germany. These places are in the
'Grand Duchy' of Hesse-Darmstadt, which adjoins that of Baden. The
boat stopped a short time at Manheim, and we went on shore to see the
palace.
It was dusk when we came in sight of the famous and very pretty town
of Mayence, our steamer passing _through_ the bridge of boats over
the Rhine, which was promptly opened to admit it. The spires, and
domes of the town, as seen from the river, give it quite an imposing
appearance. We stepped on the quay, with very little bustle, and
without any obstruction or examination. The hotels near the river
were all full, but we found good lodgings at the 'Trois Courounes'
in the interior. I shall proceed to-morrow to Frankfort and Leipsic,
with the intention of returning here to take the Rhine to Cologne.
* * * * *
FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE, SEPTEMBER 7.--The ride from Mayence to this
city occupied three hours and a half. The approach to Frankfort is
not remarkable, except for the beautiful grounds and gardens laid out
on the site of the ancient walls and fortifications in the environs.
Frankfort, you know, is one of the four free cities of Germany,[7]
(Hanse-Towns,) and is entirely independent of any other state, being
a co-equal member of the Germanic confederation, and important also
as the seat of the Diet. Some parts of the city are very handsome,
and the whole has an air of busy prosperity: it seems to be very like
Paris, on a smaller scale. The hotels are renowned for their size
and excellence; and as the great semi-annual Fair is in operation,
they are at present abundantly well patronized. This _Fair_ is quite
an important affair to the city: all the public squares, quays,
etc., are filled with temporary stalls and 'magazines' of articles,
manufactured in different parts of Germany, the merchant announcing
himself 'from Berlin,' or Dresden, or Leipsic. They often bring
samples, only, of their wares, and from them make extensive 'package
sales.' I should think that one half, at least, of these were filled
with pipes--a fair illustration of the smoking propensities of the
Germans. These pipes are long and clumsy, but most of them are very
prettily ornamented. The Germans are verily inveterate lovers of the
weed. They smoke every where and on all occasions; the toll-keeper
puffs away while he opens the gate, the conducteur, regulating the
diligence, the shop-keeper, while he makes your bill. All classes and
degrees are alike in this respect--the duke, the 'professor,' the
peasant. The charms of the practice are especially exemplified in
the interior of a crowded diligence on a hot day, when three fourths
of the passengers are doing their best to suffocate one another with
fumes of smoke from pipes, and brimstone from matches. Remonstrance
from a novice in the science is vain, for though otherwise polite and
obliging, they seem to think smoking so much a matter of course, to
prize it above their meat and drink, even above their wine, that they
do not imagine it _can_ be disagreeable.
The river Maine, which falls into the Rhine at Mayence, or Mainz, is
an insignificant stream, only navigable by flat boats which go _down_
with the current, and are drawn up by horses, as in canals. Frankfort
is built on both sides of the river, but the greater part is on the
north. The quays are broad, and afford a handsome architectural
display, the buildings being all of a light cream color, like those
of the French capital. I observed no very splendid public buildings,
but the principal street, containing several of the great hotels, is
very spacious and stately. In the Hotel de Ville is preserved, among
other archives, the original of the celebrated '_Golden Bull_.'
* * * * *
LEIPSIC, SEPTEMBER 10.--Here am I, in the very heart of Germany, in
the centre of Europe, within ten hours' ride of Dresden, one day of
Berlin, two of Prague, three of Munich, four of Warsaw, ten of St.
Petersburgh, and a few more of Rome, Constantinople, and Jerusalem,
all of which I would fain honor with a visit, did time and the
'needful' permit; at present, however, this will be my ultimatum,
and to-morrow I shall commence what the Frenchman said Napoleon did,
after the memorable battle of this same Leipsic, not a retreat, but a
_mouvement retrograde_ toward home. My journeyings will now be toward
the setting instead of the rising sun.
The ride to this city proved, as I expected, extremely tedious and
disagreeable. We left Frankfort at half past nine, P. M., and were
forty-one hours, including two nights, on the way; the distance being
two hundred and twenty miles. I was again doomed to the _interieur_,
amid five smokers, as usual, neither of whom could speak English
or French; and the idea of the mistakes and vexations to which my
solitary ignorance exposed me, was any thing but comfortable. I
escaped, however, with nothing worse than the loss of a cloak in the
Frankfort diligence; for on coming to the Prussian dominions, we were
transferred to a respectable vehicle, on which was inscribed:
'Konig. Preuss,
Schnell Post.'
(Query, mail or snail? It does not merit the latter appellation so
well as some of the French, to say the least.) The public conveyances
on the continent are all driven by a postillion, in a kind of
livery, with 'seven league boots,' a trumpet with tawdry tassels,
and a leathern hat: he always rides the 'nigh' horse, and never goes
more than one post, as each 'team' has its own postillion. Every
diligence is superintended by a _conducteur_, who has the best seat
in the coupé, but does nothing himself, except delivering the mails
and small parcels on the way. The French and Swiss conducteurs are
often surly and uncivil, but those in Prussia are very attentive,
good-looking, and even well-educated. The most learned doctors of the
university will converse with them on familiar terms, with deference
and respect.
There is evidently much less exclusiveness in grades, and less show
of haughty superiority in the wealthy, and even the noble, in these
_despotic_ countries, than in _liberal_ and enlightened England.
From the Grand Duke downward, it is usual to give a bow and a '_bon
jour_,' or '_adieu_,' to the meanest servant in return for the
same salutations: and these courtesies certainly do not seem to be
misconstrued into that familiarity which breeds contempt, but rather
to strengthen respect and attachment to the superior.
In coming to Leipsic from Switzerland, I passed through no less
than eight independent states and principalities, viz.: the 'Grand
Duchies' of Baden, Hesse-Darmstadt, Saxe-Weimar, Saxe-Gotha,
Hesse-Cassel, the free city of Frankfort, and the kingdoms of Prussia
and Saxony. The boundaries of these great-little duchies are marked
by a plain stone on the way-side, inscribed, 'Weimar,' 'Gotha,' etc.,
as the case may be. I observed nothing else to indicate that the
country was governed by so many different masters. There is nothing
on the route deserving the name of scenery: even a gentle hill to
relieve the dull, tame prospect of long and often barren plains,
occurs but seldom. Of the towns I shall see more on my return.
I was sorry to find that the noted book-publisher, Mr. TAUCHNITZ,
Senior, died of apoplexy, very suddenly, a few months since. His son,
who continues the business, is a very courteous and intelligent man,
and speaks English fluently. He received me very kindly, and invited
me to dine with him at twelve o'clock, M.! In England, I was several
times invited to dine at seven, P. M. The usual dinner hour at hotels
in Germany is one.
Before dinner, Mr. T. escorted me to the lions. In the principal
Lutheran church, I was a little surprised to see paintings, altars
and images!--things opposed, as I thought, to the very spirit of
Lutheranism.
The 'booksellers' have just completed a handsome 'Exchange,'
where the brethren of the 'trade' from all parts of Germany
assemble semi-annually, at the Easter and Michaelmas fairs, to
settle accounts, and make sales of new books, etc., by sample. The
book-trade is carried on here very extensively, and with a great deal
of system. Leipsic is the head-quarters for the business in all the
German states, and all publishers in other places have their agents
here. You will be surprised, perhaps, at the fact, that the number of
new books published annually in Germany, is greater than all issued
during the same time in Great Britain and France put together.[8]
What a nation of book-makers! What a mass of intellect in active
exercise! In a country not much exceeding in extent the single state
of New-York, there are six thousand _new works_, comprising _nine
millions of volumes_, printed every year, beside reprints of old
works, and all pamphlets and periodicals! One would think the Germans
_ought_ to be a learned people!
Mr. Tauchnitz's establishment is one of the most extensive in the
trade. He showed me the stereotype plates of his well-known editions
of the Greek and Latin classics, of which he publishes a complete
series, in an economical, _pure text_ form, one set filling a box
twenty inches square. So you may easily ascertain the exact _bulk_ of
all the intellect of antiquity!
The Leipsic University, which is one of the oldest in Germany, is
also about to occupy a neat and extensive edifice just completed.
The ancient fortifications of Leipsic, like those of Frankfort, have
been removed, and the space they occupied is laid out in gardens
and public promenades; a change decidedly for the better, as every
peaceable man will say.[9] As to beauty of architecture, this city
has little remarkable; the buildings are mostly antique and uncouth,
and the streets narrow, and without side-walks.