Dueñas—Children of Egypt—Jockeyism—The Baggage Pony—The
Fall—Palencia—Carlist Priests—The Look-out—Priestly
Sincerity—Leon—Antonio alarmed—Heat and Dust.
After a sojourn of about ten days at Valladolid, we directed our course
towards Leon. We arrived about noon at Dueñas, {303} a town at the
distance of six short leagues from Valladolid. It is in every respect a
singular place: it stands on a rising ground, and directly above it
towers a steep conical mountain of calcareous earth, crowned by a ruined
castle. Around Dueñas are seen a multitude of caves scooped in the high
banks and secured with strong doors. These are cellars, in which is
deposited the wine, of which abundance is grown in the neighbourhood, and
which is chiefly sold to the Navarrese and the mountaineers of Santander,
who arrive in cars drawn by oxen, and convey it away in large quantities.
We put up at a mean posada in the suburb for the purpose of refreshing
our horses. Several cavalry soldiers were quartered there, who instantly
came forth, and began, with the eyes of connoisseurs, to inspect my
Andalusian _entero_. “A capital horse that would be for our troop,” said
the corporal; “what a chest he has! By what right do you travel with
that horse, _señor_, when so many are wanted for the queen’s service? He
belongs to the _requiso_.” {304a} “I travel with him by right of
purchase, and being an Englishman,” I replied. “Oh, your worship is an
Englishman,” answered the corporal; “that, indeed, alters the matter.
The English in Spain are allowed to do what they please with their own,
which is more than the Spaniards are. Cavalier, I have seen your
countrymen {304b} in the Basque provinces; _vaya_, what riders! what
horses! They do not fight badly either. But their chief skill is in
riding: I have seen them dash over _barrancos_ to get at the factious,
who thought themselves quite secure, and then they would fall upon them
on a sudden and kill them to a man. In truth, your worship, this is a
fine horse; I must look at his teeth.”
I looked at the corporal—his nose and eyes were in the horse’s mouth: the
rest of the party, who might amount to six or seven, were not less busily
engaged. One was examining his fore feet, another his hind; one fellow
was pulling at his tail with all his might, while another pinched the
windpipe, for the purpose of discovering whether the animal was at all
touched there. At last, perceiving that the corporal was about to remove
the saddle, that he might examine the back of the animal, I exclaimed—
“Stay, ye _chabés_ of Egypt, ye forget that ye are _hundunares_, {304c}
and are no longer _paruguing grastes_ in the _chardí_.”
The corporal at these words turned his face full upon me, and so did all
the rest. Yes, sure enough, there were the countenances of Egypt, and
the fixed filmy stare of eye. We continued looking at each other for a
minute at least, when the corporal, a villanous-looking fellow, at last
said, in the richest gypsy whine imaginable, “The _erray_ knows us, the
poor _Caloré_! And he an Englishman! _Bullati_! I should not have
thought that there was e’er a _Busnó_ would know us in these parts, where
_Gitanos_ are never seen. Yes, your worship is right; we are all here of
the blood of the _Caloré_. We are from _Melegrana_, your worship; they
took us from thence and sent us to the wars. Your worship is right; the
sight of that horse made us believe we were at home again in the
_mercado_ of Granada; he is a countryman of ours, a real _Andalou_. _Por
dios_, your worship, sell us that horse; we are poor _Caloré_, but we can
buy him.”
“You forget that you are soldiers,” said I. “How should you buy my
horse?”
“We are soldiers, your worship,” said the corporal, “but we are still
_Caloré_. We buy and sell _bestis_; the captain of our troop is in
league with us. We have been to the wars, but not to fight; we left that
to the _Busné_. We have kept together, and, like true _Caloré_, have
stood back to back. We have made money in the wars, your worship. _No
tenga usted cuidao_. {305a} We can buy your horse.”
Here he pulled out a purse, which contained at least ten _ounces_ {305b}
of gold.
“If I were willing to sell,” I replied, “what would you give me for that
horse?”
“Then your worship wishes to sell your horse—that alters the matter. We
will give ten dollars for your worship’s horse. He is good for nothing.”
“How is this?” said I. “You this moment told me he was a fine horse—an
Andalusian, and a countryman of yours.”
“No, _señor_! we did not say that he was an _Andalou_. We said he was an
_Estremou_, and the worst of his kind. He is eighteen years old, your
worship, short-winded and galled.”
“I do not wish to sell my horse,” said I; “quite the contrary. I had
rather buy than sell.”
“Your worship does not wish to sell your horse,” said the gypsy. “Stay,
your worship; we will give sixty dollars for your worship’s horse.”
“I would not sell him for two hundred and sixty. _Meclis_! _Meclis_! say
no more. I know your gypsy tricks. I will have no dealings with you.”
“Did I not hear your worship say that you wished to buy a horse?” said
the gypsy.
“I do not want to buy a horse,” said I; “if I need anything it is a pony
to carry our baggage. But it is getting late. Antonio, pay the
reckoning.”
“Stay, your worship, do not be in a hurry,” said the gypsy; “I have got
the very pony which will suit you.”
Without waiting for my answer, he hurried into the stable, from whence he
presently returned, leading an animal by a halter. It was a pony of
about thirteen hands high, of a dark red colour; it was very much galled
all over, the marks of ropes and thongs being visible on its hide. The
figure, however, was good, and there was an extraordinary brightness in
its eye.
“There, your worship,” said the gypsy; “there is the best pony in all
Spain.”
“What do you mean by showing me this wretched creature?” said I.
“This wretched creature,” said the gypsy, “is a better horse than your
_Andalou_!”
“Perhaps you would not exchange,” said I, smiling.
“_Señor_, what I say is, that he shall run with your _Andalou_, and beat
him.”
“He looks feeble,” said I; “his work is well-nigh done.”
“Feeble as he is, _señor_, you could not manage him; no, nor any
Englishman in Spain.”
I looked at the creature again, and was still more struck with its
figure. I was in need of a pony to relieve occasionally the horse of
Antonio in carrying the baggage which we had brought from Madrid, and
though the condition of this was wretched, I thought that by kind
treatment I might possibly soon bring him round.
“May I mount this animal?” I demanded.
“He is a baggage pony, _señor_, and is ill to mount. He will suffer none
but myself to mount him, who am his master. When he once commences
running, nothing will stop him but the sea. He springs over hills and
mountains, and leaves them behind in a moment. If you will mount him,
_señor_, suffer me to fetch a bridle, for you can never hold him in with
the halter.”
“This is nonsense,” said I. “You pretend that he is spirited in order to
enhance the price. I tell you his work is done.”
I took the halter in my hand and mounted. I was no sooner on his back
than the creature, who had before stood stone still, without displaying
the slightest inclination to move, and who in fact gave no farther
indication of existence than occasionally rolling his eyes and pricking
up an ear, sprang forward like a racehorse, at a most desperate gallop.
I had expected that he might kick or fling himself down on the ground, in
order to get rid of his burden, but for this escapade I was quite
unprepared. I had no difficulty, however, in keeping on his back, having
been accustomed from my childhood to ride without a saddle. To stop him,
however, baffled all my endeavours, and I almost began to pay credit to
the words of the gypsy, who had said that he would run on until he
reached the sea. I had, however, a strong arm, and I tugged at the
halter until I compelled him to turn slightly his neck, which from its
stiffness might almost have been of wood; he, however, did not abate his
speed for a moment. On the left side of the road down which he was
dashing was a deep trench, just where the road took a turn towards the
right, and over this he sprang in a sideward direction. The halter broke
with the effort; the pony shot forward like an arrow, whilst I fell back
into the dust.
“_Señor_,” said the gypsy, coming up with the most serious countenance in
the world, “I told you not to mount that animal unless well bridled and
bitted. He is a baggage pony, and will suffer none to mount his back,
with the exception of myself who feed him.” (Here he whistled, and the
animal, who was scurring over the field, and occasionally kicking up his
heels, instantly returned with a gentle neigh.) “Now, your worship, see
how gentle he is. He is a capital baggage pony, and will carry all you
have over the hills of Galicia.”
“What do you ask for him?” said I.
“_Señor_, as your worship is an Englishman, and a good _ginete_, and,
moreover, understands the ways of the _Caloré_, and their tricks and
their language also, I will sell him to you a bargain. I will take two
hundred and sixty dollars for him, and no less.”
“That is a large sum,” said I.
“No, _señor_, not at all, considering that he is a baggage pony, and
belongs to the troop, and is not mine to sell.”
Two hours’ ride brought us to Palencia, {309a} a fine old town,
beautifully situated on the Carrion, and famous for its trade in wool.
We put up at the best _posada_ which the place afforded, and I forthwith
proceeded to visit one of the principal merchants of the town, to whom I
was recommended by my banker in Madrid. I was told, however, that he was
taking his _siesta_. “Then I had better take my own,” said I, and
returned to the _posada_. In the evening I went again, when I saw him.
He was a short bulky man, about thirty, and received me at first with
some degree of bluntness; his manner, however, presently became more
kind, and at last he scarcely appeared to know how to show me sufficient
civility. His brother had just arrived from Santander, and to him he
introduced me. This last was a highly intelligent person, and had passed
many years of his life in England. They both insisted upon showing me
the town, and, indeed, led me all over it, and about the neighbourhood.
I particularly admired the cathedral, a light, elegant, but ancient
Gothic edifice. {309b} Whilst we walked about the aisles, the evening
sun, pouring its mellow rays through the arched windows, illumined some
beautiful paintings of Murillo, {310a} with which the sacred edifice is
adorned. From the church my friends conducted me to a fulling mill in
the neighbourhood, by a picturesque walk. There was no lack either of
trees or water, and I remarked, that the environs of Palencia were
amongst the most pleasant places that I had ever seen.
Tired at last with rambling, we repaired to a coffee-house, where they
regaled me with chocolate and sweetmeats. Such was their hospitality;
and of hospitality of this simple and agreeable kind there is much in
Spain.
On the next day we pursued our journey, a dreary one, for the most part,
over bleak and barren plains, interspersed with silent and cheerless
towns and villages, which stood at the distance of two or three leagues
from each other. About midday we obtained a dim and distant view of an
immense range of mountains, {310b} which are in fact those which bound
Castile on the north. The day, however, became dim and obscure, and we
speedily lost sight of them. A hollow wind now arose and blew over these
desolate plains with violence, wafting clouds of dust into our faces; the
rays of the sun were few, and those red and angry. I was tired of my
journey, and when about four we reached ---, {311} a large village,
halfway between Palencia and Leon, I declared my intention of stopping
for the night. I scarcely ever saw a more desolate place than this same
town or village of ---. The houses were for the most part large, but the
walls were of mud, like those of barns. We saw no person in the long
winding street to direct us to the _venta_, or _posada_, till at last, at
the farther end of the place, we descried two black figures standing at a
door, of whom, on making inquiry, we learned that the door at which they
stood was that of the house we were in quest of. There was something
strange in the appearance of these two beings, who seemed the genii of
the place. One was a small slim man, about fifty, with sharp ill-natured
features. He was dressed in coarse black worsted stockings, black
breeches, and an ample black coat with long trailing skirts. I should at
once have taken him for an ecclesiastic, but for his hat, which had
nothing clerical about it, being a pinched diminutive beaver. His
companion was of low stature, and a much younger man. He was dressed in
similar fashion, save that he wore a dark blue cloak. Both carried
walking-sticks in their hands, and kept hovering about the door, now
within and now without, occasionally looking up the road, as if they
expected some one.
“Trust me, _mon maître_,” said Antonio to me, in French, “those two
fellows are Carlist priests, and are awaiting the arrival of the
Pretender. _Les imbeciles_!”
We conducted our horses to the stable, to which we were shown by the
woman of the house. “Who are those men?” said I to her.
“The eldest is head curate to our _pueblo_,” said she; “the other is
brother to my husband. _Pobrecito_! he was a friar in our convent before
it was shut up and the brethren driven forth.”
We returned to the door. “I suppose, gentlemen,” said the curate, “that
you are Catalans? Do you bring any news from that kingdom?”
“Why do you suppose we are Catalans?” I demanded.
“Because I heard you this moment conversing in that language.”
“I bring no news from Catalonia,” {312} said I. “I believe, however,
that the greater part of that principality is in the hands of the
Carlists.”
“Ahem, brother Pedro! This gentleman says that the greater part of
Catalonia is in the hands of the royalists. Pray, sir, where may Don
Carlos be at present with his army?”
“He may be coming down the road this moment,” said I, “for what I know;”
and, stepping out, I looked up the way.
The two figures were at my side in a moment. Antonio followed, and we
all four looked intently up the road.
“Do you see anything?” said I at last to Antonia.
“Non, _mon maître_.”
“Do you see anything, sir?” said I to the curate.
“I see nothing,” said the curate, stretching out his neck.
“I see nothing,” said Pedro, the ex-friar; “I see nothing but the dust,
which is becoming every moment more blinding.”
“I shall go in, then,” said I. “Indeed, it is scarcely prudent to be
standing here looking out for the Pretender; should the nationals of the
town hear of it, they might perhaps shoot us.”
“Ahem!” said the curate, following me; “there are no nationals in this
place: I would fain see what inhabitant would dare become a national.
When the inhabitants of this place were ordered to take up arms as
nationals, they refused to a man, and on that account we had to pay a
mulct; therefore, friend, you may speak out if you have anything to
communicate; we are all of your opinion here.”
“I am of no opinion at all,” said I, “save that I want my supper. I am
neither for _Rey_ nor _Roque_. {313} You say that I am a Catalan, and
you know that Catalans think only of their own affairs.”
In the evening I strolled by myself about the village, which I found
still more forlorn and melancholy that it at first appeared; perhaps,
however, it had been a place of consequence in its time. In one corner
of it I found the ruins of a large clumsy castle, chiefly built of flint
stones: into these ruins I attempted to penetrate, but the entrance was
secured by a gate. From the castle I found my way to the convent, a sad
desolate place, formerly the residence of mendicant brothers of the order
of St. Francis. I was about to return to the inn, when I heard a loud
buzz of voices, and, following the sound, presently reached a kind of
meadow, where, upon a small knoll, sat a priest in full canonicals,
reading in a loud voice a newspaper, while around him, either erect or
seated on the grass, were assembled about fifty _vecinos_, for the most
part dressed in long cloaks, amongst whom I discovered my two friends the
curate and friar. A fine knot of Carlist quidnuncs, said I to myself,
and turned away to another part of the meadow, where the cattle of the
village were grazing. The curate, on observing me, detached himself
instantly from the group, and followed. “I am told you want a pony,”
said he; “there now is mine feeding amongst those horses, the best in the
kingdom of Leon.” He then began with all the volubility of a _chalan_ to
descant on the points of the animal. Presently the friar joined us, who,
observing his opportunity, pulled me by the sleeve and whispered, “Have
nothing to do with the curate, master; he is the greatest thief in the
neighbourhood. If you want a pony, my brother has a much better, which
he will dispose of cheaper.” “I shall wait till I arrive at Leon,” I
exclaimed, and walked away, musing on priestly friendship and sincerity.
From --- to Leon, a distance of eight leagues, the country rapidly
improved: we passed over several small streams, and occasionally found
ourselves amongst meadows in which grass was growing in the richest
luxuriance. The sun shone out brightly, and I hailed his reappearance
with joy, though the heat of his beams was oppressive. On arriving
within two leagues of Leon, we passed numerous cars and waggons, and
bands of people with horses and mules, all hastening to the celebrated
fair which is held in the city on St. John’s or Midsummer day, and which
took place within three days after our arrival. This fair, though
principally intended for the sale of horses, is frequented by merchants
from many parts of Spain, who attend with goods of various kinds, and
amongst them I remarked many of the Catalans whom I had previously seen
at Medina and Valladolid.
There is nothing remarkable in Leon, {315} which is an old gloomy town,
with the exception of its cathedral, in many respects a counterpart of
the church of Palencia, exhibiting the same light and elegant
architecture, but, unlike its beautiful sister, unadorned with splendid
paintings. The situation of Leon is highly pleasant, in the midst of a
blooming country, abounding with trees, and watered by many streams,
which have their source in the mighty mountains in the neighbourhood. It
is, however, by no means a healthy place, especially in summer, when the
heats raise noxious exhalations from the waters, generating many kinds of
disorders, especially fevers.
I had scarcely been at Leon three days when I was seized with a fever,
against which I thought the strength even of my constitution would have
yielded, for it wore me almost to a skeleton, and when it departed, at
the end of about a week, left me in such a deplorable state of weakness
that I was scarcely able to make the slightest exertion. I had, however,
previously persuaded a bookseller to undertake the charge of vending the
Testaments, and had published my advertisements as usual, though without
very sanguine hope of success, as Leon is a place where the inhabitants,
with very few exceptions, are furious Carlists, and ignorant and blinded
followers of the old papal church. It is, moreover, a bishop’s see,
which was once enjoyed by the prime counsellor of Don Carlos, whose
fierce and bigoted spirit still seems to pervade the place. Scarcely had
the advertisements appeared, when the clergy were in motion. They went
from house to house, banning and cursing, and denouncing misery to
whomsoever should either purchase or read “the accursed books,” which had
been sent into the country by heretics for the purpose of perverting the
innocent minds of the population. They did more; they commenced a
process against the bookseller in the ecclesiastical court. Fortunately
this court is not at present in the possession of much authority; and the
bookseller, a bold and determined man, set them at defiance, and went so
far as to affix an advertisement to the gate of the very cathedral.
Notwithstanding the cry raised against the book, several copies were sold
at Leon: two were purchased by ex-friars, and the same number by
parochial priests from neighbouring villages. I believe the whole number
disposed of during my stay amounted to fifteen; so that my visit to this
dark corner was not altogether in vain, as the seed of the Gospel has
been sown, though sparingly. But the palpable darkness which envelops
Leon is truly lamentable, and the ignorance of the people is so great,
that printed charms and incantations against Satan and his host, and
against every kind of misfortune, are publicly sold in the shops, and are
in great demand. Such are the results of Popery, a delusion which, more
than any other, has tended to debase and brutalize the human mind.
I had scarcely risen from my bed where the fever had cast me, when I
found that Antonio had become alarmed. He informed me that he had seen
several soldiers in the uniform of Don Carlos lurking at the door of the
_posada_, and that they had been making inquiries concerning me.
It was indeed a singular fact connected with Leon, that upwards of fifty
of these fellows, who had on various accounts left the ranks of the
Pretender, were walking about the streets dressed in his livery, and with
all the confidence which the certainty of protection from the local
authorities could afford them should any one be disposed to interrupt
them.
I learned moreover from Antonio, that the person in whose house we were
living was a notorious _alcahuete_, or spy to the robbers in the
neighbourhood, and that unless we took our departure speedily and
unexpectedly, we should to a certainty be plundered on the road. I did
not pay much attention to these hints, but my desire to quit Leon was
great, as I was convinced that as long as I continued there I should be
unable to regain my health and vigour.
Accordingly, at three in the morning, we departed for Galicia. We had
scarcely proceeded half a league when we were overtaken by a thunderstorm
of tremendous violence. We were at that time in the midst of a wood
which extends to some distance in the direction in which we were going.
The trees were bowed almost to the ground by the wind or torn up by the
roots, whilst the earth was ploughed up by the lightning, which burst all
around and nearly blinded us. The spirited Andalusian on which I rode
became furious, and bounded into the air as if possessed. Owing to my
state of weakness, I had the greatest difficulty in maintaining my seat,
and avoiding a fall which might have been fatal. A tremendous discharge
of rain followed the storm, which swelled the brooks and streams and
flooded the surrounding country, causing much damage amongst the corn.
After riding about five leagues, we began to enter the mountainous
district which surrounds Astorga. The heat now became almost
suffocating; swarms of flies began to make their appearance, and settling
down upon the horses, stung them almost to madness, whilst the road was
very flinty and trying. It was with great difficulty that we reached
Astorga, {318} covered with mud and dust, our tongues cleaving to our
palates with thirst.