CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from Cordova—The Contrabandista—Jewish Cunning—Arrival at

Madrid.

One fine morning I departed from Cordova, in company with the

_contrabandista_; the latter was mounted on a handsome animal, something

between a horse and a pony, which he called a _jaca_, of that breed for

which Cordova is celebrated. It was of a bright bay colour, with a star

in its forehead, with strong but elegant limbs, and a long black tail

which swept the ground. The other animal, which was destined to carry me

to Madrid, was not quite so prepossessing in its appearance. In more

than one respect it closely resembled a hog, particularly in the curving

of its back, the shortness of its neck, and the manner in which it kept

its head nearly in contact with the ground; it had also the tail of a

hog, and meandered over the ground much like one. Its coat more

resembled coarse bristles than hair; and with respect to size, I have

seen many a Westphalian hog quite as tall. I was not altogether

satisfied with the idea of exhibiting myself on the back of this most

extraordinary quadruped, and looked wistfully on the respectable animal

on which my guide had thought proper to place himself. He interpreted my

glances, and gave me to understand that as he was destined to carry the

baggage, he was entitled to the best horse—a plea too well grounded on

reason for me to make any objection to it.

I found the _contrabandista_ by no means such pleasant company on the

road as I had been led to suppose he would prove from the representation

of my host of Cordova. Throughout the day he sat sullen and silent, and

rarely replied to my questions, save by a monosyllable; at night,

however, after having eaten well and drunk proportionably at my expense,

he would occasionally become more sociable and communicative. “I have

given up smuggling,” said he, on one of these occasions, “owing to a

trick which was played upon me the last time that I was at Lisbon: a Jew,

whom I had been long acquainted with, palmed upon me a false brilliant

for a real stone. He effected it in the most extraordinary manner, for I

am not such a novice as not to know a true diamond when I see one; but

the Jew appears to have had two, with which he played most adroitly,

keeping the valuable one for which I bargained, and substituting therefor

another which, though an excellent imitation, was not worth four dollars.

I did not discover the trick until I was across the border, and upon my

hurrying back, the culprit was not to be found; his priest, however, told

me that he was just dead and buried, which was of course false, as I saw

him laughing in the corners of his eyes. I renounced the contraband

trade from that moment.”

It is not my intention to describe minutely the various incidents of this

journey. Leaving at our right the mountains of Jaen, we passed through

Andujar and Bailen, and on the third day reached Carolina, a small but

beautiful town on the skirts of the Sierra Morena, inhabited by the

descendants of German colonists. Two leagues from this place we entered

the defile of Despeñaperros, which, even in quiet times, has an evil

name, on account of the robberies which are continually being perpetrated

within its recesses, but at the period of which I am speaking, it was

said to be swarming with banditti. We of course expected to be robbed,

perhaps stripped and otherwise ill treated; but Providence here

manifested itself. It appeared that the day before our arrival, the

banditti of the pass had committed a dreadful robbery and murder, by

which they gained forty thousand _reals_. {254a} This booty probably

contented them for a time: certain it is that we were not interrupted.

We did not even see a single individual in the pass, though we

occasionally heard whistles and loud cries. We entered La Mancha, where

I expected to fall into the hands of Palillos and Orejita. {254b}

Providence again showed itself. It had been delicious weather; suddenly

the Lord breathed forth a frozen blast, the severity of which was almost

intolerable. No human being but ourselves ventured forth. We traversed

snow-covered plains, and passed through villages and towns to all

appearance deserted. The robbers kept close in their caves and hovels,

but the cold nearly killed us. We reached Aranjuez late on

Christmas-day, and I got into the house of an Englishman, where I

swallowed nearly a pint of brandy: it affected me no more than warm

water.

On the following day we arrived at Madrid, where we had the good fortune

to find everything tranquil and quiet. The _contrabandista_ continued

with me for two days, at the end of which time he returned to Cordova

upon the uncouth animal on which I had ridden throughout the journey. I

had myself purchased the _jaca_, whose capabilities I had seen on the

route, and which I imagined might prove useful in future journeys. The

_contrabandista_ was so satisfied with the price which I gave him for his

beast, and the general treatment which he had experienced at my hands

during the time of his attendance upon me, that he would fain have

persuaded me to retain him as a servant, assuring me that, in the event

of my compliance, he would forget his wife and children and follow me

through the world. I declined, however, to accede to his request, though

I was in need of a domestic; I therefore sent him back to Cordova, where,

as I subsequently learned, he died suddenly, about a week after his

return.

The manner of his death was singular: one day he took out his purse, and,

after counting his money, said to his wife, “I have made ninety-five

dollars by this journey with the Englishman and by the sale of the

_jaca_; this I could easily double by one successful venture in the

smuggling lay. To-morrow I will depart for Lisbon to buy diamonds. I

wonder if the beast requires to be shod?” He then started up and made

for the door, with the intention of going to the stable; ere, however,

his foot had crossed the threshold, he fell dead on the floor. Such is

the course of the world. Well said the wise king, “Let no one boast of

the morrow.”

The Bible in Spain, Vol. 1 [of 2] Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula · 第 18 / 28 章