CHAPTER XLII.

Each person is born to one possession which outvalues all his others--his

last breath.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

Toward midnight, that night, there was another function. This was a

Hindoo wedding--no, I think it was a betrothal ceremony. Always before,

we had driven through streets that were multitudinous and tumultuous with

picturesque native life, but now there was nothing of that. We seemed to

move through a city of the dead. There was hardly a suggestion of life

in those still and vacant streets. Even the crows were silent. But

everywhere on the ground lay sleeping natives-hundreds and hundreds.

They lay stretched at full length and tightly wrapped in blankets, beads

and all. Their attitude and their rigidity counterfeited death. The

plague was not in Bombay then, but it is devastating the city now. The

shops are deserted, now, half of the people have fled, and of the

remainder the smitten perish by shoals every day. No doubt the city

looks now in the daytime as it looked then at night. When we had pierced

deep into the native quarter and were threading its narrow dim lanes, we

had to go carefully, for men were stretched asleep all about and there

was hardly room to drive between them. And every now and then a swarm of

rats would scamper across past the horses' feet in the vague light--the

forbears of the rats that are carrying the plague from house to house in

Bombay now. The shops were but sheds, little booths open to the street;

and the goods had been removed, and on the counters families were

sleeping, usually with an oil lamp present. Recurrent dead watches, it

looked like.

But at last we turned a corner and saw a great glare of light ahead. It

was the home of the bride, wrapped in a perfect conflagration of

illuminations,--mainly gas-work designs, gotten up specially for the

occasion. Within was abundance of brilliancy--flames, costumes, colors,

decorations, mirrors--it was another Aladdin show.

The bride was a trim and comely little thing of twelve years, dressed as

we would dress a boy, though more expensively than we should do it, of

course. She moved about very much at her ease, and stopped and talked

with the guests and allowed her wedding jewelry to be examined. It was

very fine. Particularly a rope of great diamonds, a lovely thing to look

at and handle. It had a great emerald hanging to it.

The bridegroom was not present. He was having betrothal festivities of

his own at his father's house. As I understood it, he and the bride were

to entertain company every night and nearly all night for a week or more,

then get married, if alive. Both of the children were a little elderly,

as brides and grooms go, in India--twelve; they ought to have been

married a year or two sooner; still to a, stranger twelve seems quite

young enough.

A while after midnight a couple of celebrated and high-priced

nautch-girls appeared in the gorgeous place, and danced and sang. With

them were men who played upon strange instruments which made uncanny

noises of a sort to make one's flesh creep. One of these instruments was

a pipe, and to its music the girls went through a performance which

represented snake charming. It seemed a doubtful sort of music to charm

anything with, but a native gentleman assured me that snakes like it and

will come out of their holes and listen to it with every evidence of

refreshment And gratitude. He said that at an entertainment in his

grounds once, the pipe brought out half a dozen snakes, and the music had

to be stopped before they would be persuaded to go. Nobody wanted their

company, for they were bold, familiar, and dangerous; but no one would

kill them, of course, for it is sinful for a Hindoo to kill any kind of a

creature.

We withdrew from the festivities at two in the morning. Another picture,

then--but it has lodged itself in my memory rather as a stage-scene than

as a reality. It is of a porch and short flight of steps crowded with

dark faces and ghostly-white draperies flooded with the strong glare from

the dazzling concentration of illuminations; and midway of the steps one

conspicuous figure for accent--a turbaned giant, with a name according to

his size: Rao Bahadur Baskirao Balinkanje Pitale, Vakeel to his Highness

the Gaikwar of Baroda. Without him the picture would not have been

complete; and if his name had been merely Smith, he wouldn't have

answered. Close at hand on house-fronts on both sides of the narrow

street were illuminations of a kind commonly employed by the natives

--scores of glass tumblers (containing tapers) fastened a few in inches

apart all over great latticed frames, forming starry constellations which

showed out vividly against their black back grounds. As we drew away

into the distance down the dim lanes the illuminations gathered together

into a single mass, and glowed out of the enveloping darkness like a sun.

Then again the deep silence, the skurrying rats, the dim forms stretched

every-where on the ground; and on either hand those open booths

counterfeiting sepulchres, with counterfeit corpses sleeping motionless

in the flicker of the counterfeit death lamps. And now, a year later,

when I read the cablegrams I seem to be reading of what I myself partly

saw--saw before it happened--in a prophetic dream, as it were. One

cablegram says, "Business in the native town is about suspended. Except

the wailing and the tramp of the funerals. There is but little life or

movement. The closed shops exceed in number those that remain open."

Another says that 325,000 of the people have fled the city and are

carrying the plague to the country. Three days later comes the news,

"The population is reduced by half." The refugees have carried the

disease to Karachi; "220 cases, 214 deaths." A day or two later, "52

fresh cases, all of which proved fatal."

The plague carries with it a terror which no other disease can excite;

for of all diseases known to men it is the deadliest--by far the

deadliest. "Fifty-two fresh cases--all fatal." It is the Black Death

alone that slays like that. We can all imagine, after a fashion, the

desolation of a plague-stricken city, and the stupor of stillness broken

at intervals by distant bursts of wailing, marking the passing of

funerals, here and there and yonder, but I suppose it is not possible for

us to realize to ourselves the nightmare of dread and fear that possesses

the living who are present in such a place and cannot get away. That

half million fled from Bombay in a wild panic suggests to us something of

what they were feeling, but perhaps not even they could realize what the

half million were feeling whom they left stranded behind to face the

stalking horror without chance of escape. Kinglake was in Cairo many

years ago during an epidemic of the Black Death, and he has imagined the

terrors that creep into a man's heart at such a time and follow him until

they themselves breed the fatal sign in the armpit, and then the delirium

with confused images, and home-dreams, and reeling billiard-tables, and

then the sudden blank of death:

"To the contagionist, filled as he is with the dread of final

causes, having no faith in destiny, nor in the fixed will of God,

and with none of the devil-may-care indifference which might stand

him instead of creeds--to such one, every rag that shivers in the

breeze of a plague-stricken city has this sort of sublimity. If by

any terrible ordinance he be forced to venture forth, be sees death

dangling from every sleeve; and, as he creeps forward, he poises his

shuddering limbs between the imminent jacket that is stabbing at his

right elbow and the murderous pelisse that threatens to mow him

clean down as it sweeps along on his left. But most of all he

dreads that which most of all he should love--the touch of a woman's

dress; for mothers and wives, hurrying forth on kindly errands from

the bedsides of the dying, go slouching along through the streets

more willfully and less courteously than the men. For a while it

may be that the caution of the poor Levantine may enable him to

avoid contact, but sooner or later, perhaps, the dreaded chance

arrives; that bundle of linen, with the dark tearful eyes at the top

of it, that labors along with the voluptuous clumsiness of Grisi

--she has touched the poor Levantine with the hem of her sleeve! From

that dread moment his peace is gone; his mind for ever hanging upon

the fatal touch invites the blow which he fears; he watches for the

symptoms of plague so carefully, that sooner or later they come in

truth. The parched mouth is a sign--his mouth is parched; the

throbbing brain--his brain does throb; the rapid pulse--he touches

his own wrist (for he dares not ask counsel of any man lest he be

deserted), he touches his wrist, and feels how his frighted blood

goes galloping out of his heart. There is nothing but the fatal

swelling that is wanting to make his sad conviction complete;

immediately, he has an odd feel under the arm--no pain, but a little

straining of the skin; he would to God it were his fancy that were

strong enough to give him that sensation; this is the worst of all.

It now seems to him that he could be happy and contented with his

parched mouth, and his throbbing brain, and his rapid pulse, if only

he could know that there were no swelling under the left arm; but

dares he try?--in a moment of calmness and deliberation he dares

not; but when for a while he has writhed under the torture of

suspense, a sudden strength of will drives him to seek and know his

fate; he touches the gland, and finds the skin sane and sound but

under the cuticle there lies a small lump like a pistol-bullet, that

moves as he pushes it. Oh! but is this for all certainty, is this

the sentence of death? Feel the gland of the other arm. There is

not the same lump exactly, yet something a little like it. Have not

some people glands naturally enlarged?--would to heaven he were one!

So he does for himself the work of the plague, and when the Angel of

Death thus courted does indeed and in truth come, he has only to

finish that which has been so well begun; he passes his fiery hand

over the brain of the victim, and lets him rave for a season, but

all chance-wise, of people and things once dear, or of people and

things indifferent. Once more the poor fellow is back at his home

in fair Provence, and sees the sundial that stood in his childhood's

garden--sees his mother, and the long-since forgotten face of that

little dear sister--(he sees her, he says, on a Sunday morning, for

all the church bells are ringing); he looks up and down through the

universe, and owns it well piled with bales upon bales of cotton,

and cotton eternal--so much so that he feels--he knows--he swears he

could make that winning hazard, if the billiard-table would not

slant upwards, and if the cue were a cue worth playing with; but it

is not--it's a cue that won't move--his own arm won't move--in

short, there's the devil to pay in the brain of the poor Levantine;

and perhaps, the next night but one he becomes the 'life and the

soul' of some squalling jackal family, who fish him out by the foot

from his shallow and sandy grave."

Following the Equator: A Journey Around the World. Part 5 · 第 5 / 13 章