CHAPTER XV.

Making a Portable Lamp.

[Illustration: Fig. 80.]

In Figure 80 is represented a portable lamp. This kind of lamp can be

made in various sizes with one light. The lamp shown in the illustration,

consists of two parts; the standard, and the shade, which can be removed.

The standard consists of a box-shaped bottom, with a pipe screwed into it

for the upright piece. The arms that the shade rests on, are separate

and are held in position by the lamp socket, which is screwed down on

them. The strips running over the bottom of the base and up the pipe are

riveted in place to support the pipe. This gives the whole standard a

more substantial appearance, and relieves the plain round pipe.

[Illustration: Fig. 81. Fig. 82.]

[Illustration: Fig. 83. Fig. 84.]

[Illustration: Fig. 85.]

In making a very simple lamp of this character, we may eliminate the

strips running up the pipe, and make the bottom with a round pipe screwed

into it. Of course a square standard would be more in keeping with the

square base and shade. In making the box-shaped base, soft steel should

be used. Figure 81 shows the dimensions of the flat stock. The plate is

heated and an inch of the edge is bent over the outer edge of the anvil,

as shown in Figure 82. The outer edges of the plate can be bent over the

end of the anvil as shown in Figure 83. When all the edges are bent the

piece will look somewhat as in Figure 84. The corners are now ground

off, and the bottom is made level. A hole is drilled in the center and

threaded for a ¾-in. steam pipe. Two inches from the center hole, another

hole is drilled and tapped for a ¼-in. or ⅜-in. rubber bushing. In wiring

the lamp, the cord should enter thru the bushing from the outside, and

under and up thru the pipe to the socket. The drawing for the pipe is

shown at Figure 85, also a bushing which is brazed into the top of the

pipe and threaded for a ⅛-in. pipe. The ⅛-in. steam pipe and bushing are

shown in position in the illustration at one end of the pipe. This small

pipe is for the lamp socket to be screwed onto. The other end of the

large pipe is to be threaded and screwed into the base. The pipe should

be screwed into the base far enough, so that the threads will not be

exposed to the outside and the surplus cut off. The pipe when screwed

tight should be brazed to the base. In doing this, the borax and spelter

should be applied to the under side, after the base is well heated, as

the brass will discolor the iron on the top side. When the pipe is brazed

it should be made to stand vertical.

[Illustration: Fig. 86. Fig. 87.]

[Illustration: Fig. 88. Fig. 89.]

In Figure 86 is shown the lamp standard with the shade support in

position. The support has a hole in the center to fit the ⅛-in. steam

pipe at the top of the standard. When the support is in place another

⅛-in. hole is drilled thru it into the pipe. A pin is driven into the

hole so that the support cannot be moved around. The lamp socket when

screwed down makes the support tight. In making the support the center

part is cut from a plate ³⁄₁₆ in. by 4 by 4 in. and ³⁄₁₆ in. round soft

steel bars are welded on for the arms. In Figure 87 is shown the drawing

which does not need explanation. The drawing for the pattern is shown at

Figure 88 and the pattern for one section at Figure 89. In developing the

pattern which is very simple the top drawing, Figure 88, represents the

shade which should be drawn full size. The length from A to B is then

laid off on the center line of the pattern, which in this case measures

7½ in. The top and bottom of shade shows a return of ⅜ in. which should

be added to the length of the pattern. The width of the top and bottom

of the shade is then drawn, also diagonal lines which will complete the

pattern. The edge view of the pattern is shown at C. The ⅜-in. bend

at the top is made so that the cap can be riveted on. The one at the

bottom is to receive the glass. This was explained on a previous page in

describing the making of a hall lantern. In assembling the shade, corner

angles are used to fasten the sections together, which was also explained

for the hall lantern. The top cap is put on last and fastened with rivets.

[Illustration]

INDEX

Annealing, 77

Annealing high speed steel, 81

Anvil, construction of, 10

how to fasten, 11

tools, 13

Awl, scratch, 78

Ball hammer, 13

Bessemer process, 65

Blast, control of, 27

Bolts, heading, 55

making of, 54

Bottom fuller, 17

Bottom swage, 16

Braiding, 96

Brazing, 36

Butt welding, 31

Candle-stick, making of, 104

Case hardening, 76

Cementation process, 66

Center punch, use of, 13

Chain links, welding of, 48

Chasing, 109

Chisels, hot and cold, 15

making of cold, 70

Coal, method of handling, 19

Cold Chisel, use of, 15

Coloring steel, 77

Crucible steel, making of, 66

Cupping tool, 55

Door knocker, making of, 110, 113

Door latch, making of, 99

Drawer pull, making of, 107

Expansion of iron, 59

Eye-pin, use of, 103

welding of, 43

Eyes, welding of hinge, 102

Fagot welding, 23, 37

File, used for inlaying, 128

Fire, making of forge, 18

cleaning of, 19

Fire shovel, making of, 97

Flatter, use of, 15

Fluting tool, 86

Flux and its uses, 21

Forge, the, 7

tools, 10

Forging a cold chisel, 70

Forming a loose eye, 40

Fuller, 16, 118

Gate hook, forging of, 55

Grab hook, making of, 52

Grilles, making of, 87, 91

Hammer, ball, 13

danger of, 25

modeling, 87

proper way to hold, 27

round-faced modeling, 137

set, 15

sledge, 13

sledge, danger, 71

Hammock hook, making of, 41

Handle, twisted poker, 94

Hardening cold chisel, 72

Hardie, 13

Hat and coat hook, making of, 117

Hay hook, making of, 57

Heading tool, 15

Heating, method of, 22, 27

Hinge, making of, 101

Horn, 56

Hot chisel, 15

Inlaying, 125

Jump welding, 30, 120

Lamp, portable, making of, 139

wall, making of, 137

Lamp ceiling cap, 137

Lamp shade, making of, 143

Lantern, assembling, 133

fittings of, 135

making of, 130

Links, open, 47

S, 42

Open hearth process, 65

Perforated decoration, 112

Pig iron, making of, 64

Puddling, 64

Punch block, 51

Punch, hand, 13, 79

used for inlaying, 127

Punching, method of, 50

Repousse, 112

Scarf, correct and incorrect, 26

theory of, 25

Scarfing, meaning of, 24

Scraper, 10

Scroll, volute, 89

Separate heat weld, the, 24

Shovel handle, making of, 96

Shears, kinds of, 18

Snip shears, 131

Spring tempering, 74

Staples, 46

Steel, annealing of, 77, 81

Bessemer process, 65

case hardening, 76

cementation, 66

crucible, 66

high speed, 80

Steel, making of, 65

open hearth process, 65

temper colors of, 68

tempering of, 67, 75

welding of, 76

Stock, storage of, 17

Swages, 16

Swage block, 17

Tempering thin steel, 75

Toasting fork, making of, 124

Tongs, danger in handling, 15

making of, 60

Tools, anvil, 13

center punch, 79

cupping, 55

eye-pin, 103

flatter, 15

forging, 10

fuller, for deepening lines, 16, 118

hand punch, for heavy punching, 79

hardie, 13

heading, 15

horn, 56

punch for inlaying, 127

punch block, for cutting holes, 51

round-faced hammer, 137

scraper, 10

scratch-awl, 78

snip shears, 131

swages, 16

Top fuller, 16

Top swage, 16

Tuyere, 9

Twisting, 93

handles, 94

Upsetting, 24

Vise, 17

Volute scroll, making of, 89

Wall hook, making of, 122

Welding, bolt heads, 54

butt, 31

chain links, 48

corner, 34, 36

electric, 22

eye-pins, 43

fagot, 23, 37

heat, determining, 28

hooks, 41

jump, 30, 120

lap, 29

making the, 27

method of, 20

oxy-acetylene gas, 23

ring, 39, 57

scarf, 24

scroll, 91

separate heat, 24

split, 32

steel, 76

T, 34

Wrought iron, finish of, 42

manufacture of, 64

Wrought iron leaf, making of, 85

Wrought iron work, 83

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Practical forging and art smithing · 第 15 / 15 章