Making a Hat and Coat Hook—A Fuller—Jump Welding—Making a Wall
Hook.
_Exercise No. 9._
[Illustration: Fig. 49. Hat and Coat Hook.]
[Illustration: Fig. 50.]
Figure 49 represents a hat-and-coat hook. In the making of this piece,
the plate should be made from No. 14 soft steel. The dimensions are shown
in Figure 50. The shape of the plate can be drawn on heavy paper, which
is afterward cut out and used as a pattern when making the plate from
metal. After the plate is cut out with a cold chisel, it is ground or
filed on the edges. The holes are next drilled, and the lines are cut
on the surface as shown in the drawing. In cutting the lines, a short,
narrow cold chisel is used for chasing in the same manner as previously
described. The lines on the leaf should be made quite deep. A fuller
is shown in Figure 50, which is used to make the lines still deeper.
The fuller should have the edge smooth, and without sharp corners. The
plate should be clamped on to a surface plate while making the lines.
The fuller is then set on the cut lines and struck with the hand hammer,
chasing the tool to the ends of the lines. This work can, also, be done
to advantage by heating the plate and having a helper hold it on the
anvil while fullering the lines. When all the lines are made, the leaf is
heated, set on the elm block and hammered on the back to raise the end of
the lobes as shown in the illustration.
[Illustration: Fig. 51.]
[Illustration: Fig. 52.]
[Illustration: Fig. 53.]
[Illustration: Fig. 54.]
The hook is made from iron. Figure 51 represents the dimensions of stock
for the hook. The lug is welded on, and the ends of the bar are rounded
ready to be formed. After the stock is cut, it is upset six inches from
one end to enlarge it so that the lug can be welded on. The stock from
which the lug is made is cut 3½ inches long, upset on end, and split
in the vise ½ inch deep as shown at Figure 52. The split end should be
formed as shown. In welding, separate heats are taken, and the lug is
jumped onto the bar as shown in Figure 53. The first blows are struck
directly on the end of the lug, then the lips are welded. Figure 51 shows
the length of the piece before the knobs are formed. In making the knobs
at the end, they should be upset as shown in Figure 54. They are then
hammered as shown, and finally rounded. The lug is next cut the proper
length, and a shoulder is filed at the end. The chased lines are now cut
on the front side. In forming the piece, it is heated and hammered over
the horn of the anvil, starting to bend at the end first, and working
toward the center. In bending anything of this kind, always start at one
end, and finish as you work toward the other end. See the drawing of the
bent hook at Figure 55. The end of the lug is next heated and caught in a
vise, the plate is set on and riveted tightly. The work is smoothed with
a file, heated to darken it, and oiled.
[Illustration: Fig. 55.]
[Illustration: Fig. 56.]
[Illustration: Fig. 57.]
_Exercise No. 10._
[Illustration: Fig. 58.]
A wall hook, suitable to hang a bird cage or fern dish, is shown in
Figure 56. In Figure 57 are shown the length and size of stock, and the
piece ready to form. In making the ball, the piece is shouldered at one
end by hammering it on the outer edge of the anvil as shown in Figure
58. It is then hammered on the corner, to make it round. The other end
is drawn to a square point, and is then flattened as shown in Figure
59, letting it become as wide as it will. This flat end is then veined
suggesting a leaf form. In doing this, a long chisel, made round somewhat
like a fuller, is used. The piece is heated, and a sunken line is made
with the chisel, as shown by the drawing of the leaf end. The piece is
then heated, and the leaf end is formed. The holes should now be drilled.
The balance of the hook is heated and formed by hammering it over the
horn of the anvil.
[Illustration: Fig. 59.]
[Illustration: Hall Lanterns.]