Practical Forging and
Art Smithing
THOMAS F. GOOGERTY
Milwaukee, Wis.
The Bruce Publishing Company
Copyright, 1915
The Bruce Publishing Company
INTRODUCTION
The present demand for school instruction in the industrial arts has
made it necessary for the teachers of industries to have that knowledge
of materials and methods which can only result from long and careful
experience with the materials of industry.
This book is the result of a life of such experience by a man who is now
recognized as a master craftsman in wrought metal.
The author’s work in wrought iron is comparable in design and finish to
the best work that has been produced in that material.
Some pieces of the best German work are before me as I make this
statement and tho more intricate they are no better in execution and far
less suitable to the material in design than the pieces illustrated in
this book which I have seen in process of execution and in the finished
form.
The author has moreover been a teacher of wrought metal work for many
years.
This experience is reflected in the sequence of difficulty presented by
the exercises and the clear, simple statement of the text.
With such clear and exact statement and with such profuse illustration
it is evident that the metal worker can gather much of the author’s long
experience from this book and take many a short cut to success in an
accomplishment to which there can be no royal road.
But the effectiveness of an applied art is measured best by its
expression of purpose within the limitations of the material used.
The artistic success of this book lies in the evident fact that the work
represented appears “Hand wrought and fashioned to beauty and use.”
I predict for it increasing usefulness in setting right the practice of
forging in school shops and as an inspiration to teachers, craftsmen and
tradesmen.
EDWARD J. LAKE.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER I.
The Forge—Forge Tools—The Anvil—Anvil Tools—Making the
Fire—Cleaning the Fire—Welding—Flux and Its Uses 7
CHAPTER II.
Electric Welding—Oxy-acetylene Gas Welding—The Fagot Weld—The
Separate Heat Weld—Scarfing—Upsetting—Making the Weld—Lap
Welding without Scarfing—Jump Welding—Butt Weld—Split
Welding—Corner Weld—T-Weld 22
CHAPTER III.
Corner Weld—Brazing—Fagot Weld—Fuming a Loose Eye—Hammock
Hook—Finishing Wrought Iron—S-Link—Welded Eye Pin 36
CHAPTER IV.
Staples—Open Links—Welded Chain Lines—Punching—A Grab Hook 46
CHAPTER V.
Bolts—Cupping Tool—Gate Hook—Hay Hook—Welded Ring—Expansion
of Heated Iron 54
CHAPTER VI.
Making Tongs—Pig Iron—Puddling—The Bessemer Process—The Open
Hearth Process—Crucible Steel—The Cementation Process—Tempering 60
CHAPTER VII.
Making a Flat Cold Chisel—Spring Tempering—Welding Steel—Case
Hardening—Coloring Steel—Annealing—Making a Scratch Awl—Making
a Center Punch—Making a Hand Punch—High Speed Steel—Annealing
High Speed Steel 70
ART SMITHING
CHAPTER VIII.
Wrought Iron Work—Making a Wrought Iron Leaf—Making a Volute
Scroll—Grilles 83
CHAPTER IX.
Twisting—Braiding—Making a Fire Shovel 93
CHAPTER X.
Making a Door Latch—Making a Hinge—Making a Candle Stick 99
CHAPTER XI.
Making a Drawer Pull—Chasing—Making a Door
Knocker—Repousse—Perforated Decoration 107
CHAPTER XII.
Making a Hat and Coat Hook—A Fuller—Jump Welding—Making a
Wall Hook 117
CHAPTER XIII.
Making a Toasting Fork—Inlaying 124
CHAPTER XIV.
Making a Lantern—Making a Wall Lamp 130
CHAPTER XV.
Making a Portable Lamp 139
PRACTICAL FORGING
CHAPTER I.
The Forge—Forge Tools—The Anvil—Anvil Tools—Making the
Fire—Cleaning the Fire—Welding—Flux and Its Uses.
One of the most essential things in the school forge shop is a good
forge and fire; half the work is then mastered. A few years ago nearly
all of the small commercial shops running from one to six or more fires
were equipped with brick or iron forges. The blast was furnished either
with a bellows or fan which had to be turned by hand. This method was a
great drawback, which resulted in much loss of time. It was impossible
to do much work without the aid of a helper. Work that required two men
in those days is being done now by one. Modern invention has played an
important part in simplifying the labors of the workers in iron and
steel. At the present time there are various kinds of forges in use that
lessen the work of the smith. The most successful factories are now
equipped with modern forges and appliances in order that they may be able
to do work quickly.
In our manual training schools, where the pupils have such short periods
in which to do work, it is necessary that the shops be equipped with
modern tools so that they can produce work quickly. This will give the
individual pupil more practice in a shorter length of time, which simply
means more knowledge. Our schools should not be hampered by using forges
that have been out-of-date for years.
The best forge for manual training and trade schools is the down draft
with power driven fans, thus eliminating all pipes overhead and doing
away with the dust and dirt. A boy, working at this kind of a forge, can
use both hands in the handling of the work being heated in the fire; this
is a great advantage over the old way of turning a crank. Another good
feature of the mechanical draft forge is that it teaches a boy early
how to avoid over-heating or burning his iron. This is the first thing
one must learn in working at forging, as one who cannot heat the metal
properly cannot work it. One must become acquainted with the material,
and the burning heat must be understood.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. A Typical School Forge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2. Fire Tools.]
Figure 1 shows an illustration of a down draft forge suitable for
schools; it is made of cast iron. A pressure fan furnishes the blast
for the fire and an exhaust fan takes away the gas and smoke thru an
opening at the bottom of the hood, and thru a large pipe which continues
under the floor and out thru a flue. The hood represented at A, can be
moved backward and forward to catch the smoke. The hood is moved with
a crank and worm gear as shown at B. The hearth is shown at C; a hole
in the center is called the tuyere. This is where the fire is built and
is the outlet for the wind. The amount of air needed for the fire is
regulated by a valve that is moved with a rod shown at D. The coal box
is always at the right hand of any forge and is shown at E. The water
box is represented at F. At G is shown the pressure pipe and at H the
exhaust pipe. Notice the large opening under the forge at I. Thru this
opening any nut or screw under the tuyere can be tightened with ease.
Notice the slide-rod at J. This rod, when pulled, dumps the cinders out
of the tuyere, and a bucket may be set under the hearth to catch them.
In school shops these forges are generally set in pairs in order to save
room. Figure 2 shows three fire-tools needed for the forge fire. These
tools consist of a poker made from ⅜-inch round stock, 26 inches long
with a loose eye turned on one end for a handle; a shovel with a flat
blade 4 by 6 by ¹⁄₁₆ inches with a handle riveted to the blade, and a
tool called a scraper. This scraper is made from the same stock as the
poker and is made with an eye at one end and a flat hook at the other. It
is used to scrape the coal and coke onto the fire, and to move pieces of
coke or coal, so that the iron may be seen while heating.
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Anvil.]
The anvil should be of wrought iron with a steel face, weighing about 125
pounds. This is large enough for any work being done in manual training
schools. In the school shop the anvils should all be of the same size and
weight so that any tool used with them will fit into any square hole.
In factories where anvils are made, they are forged from wrought iron
or soft steel, with a carbon steel face welded on; some are cast steel
thruout and others are cast iron with a steel face. The face is generally
three-quarters inch thick, and is hardened to resist heavy blows from
the hammer and sledge. (See drawing Figure 3 of anvil.) The anvil should
be fastened with iron straps, on a 10 by 10-inch block, set into the
ground about 3½ feet. From the top of the anvil to the floor should
measure 26 inches. The proper place to set the anvil in relation to the
forge is shown in the drawing, Figure 4. The smith should stand between
the forge and the anvil, with the horn of the anvil at his left when
facing it. The anvil edge farthest from the smith is called the outer
edge and the one nearest the smith is called the inner edge.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5. Hammer. Fig. 6. Sledge.
Fig. 9. Punch. Fig. 7. Hardie.
Fig. 8. Hand Punch.
Fig. 10. Center Punch.]
Every anvil should have two ball hammers weighing about 1½ and 2 lbs.
each. (See drawing of hammer, Figure 5.) The hammers should be numbered
corresponding with a number on the anvil. All the hammers should be kept
in a rack when not in use. When the pupils come into the shop to work,
they should be assigned to a certain forge and held responsible for the
care of tools. A ten-pound sledge hammer should also be included, perhaps
one for every two forges; the handle should be 26 inches long. (See
Figure 6.)
A piece of tool steel fitted into the square hole of the anvil and
sharpened at the top, is called a hardie. It is used in cutting iron. A
piece of iron is set on the sharpened edge of the hardie and struck with
the hammer. The sharpened edge of the hardie cuts into the iron, and in
this manner it is cut deep enough so that it may be broken. (See drawing
of hardie, Figure 7.)
If a piece of steel is pointed on one end, it can be hammered thru a flat
piece of iron. This is one method of punching holes in iron; a steel
punch so made is called a hand punch. Ordinarily hand punches are made
out of ½-inch to ¾-inch hexagonal tool-steel bars about eleven inches
long. (See drawing Figure 8.) For heavy punching, a short, thick punch
with a hole thru it, (called the eye) to receive a wooden handle, is
used. This kind of punch is struck on with a sledge hammer. (See drawing
Figure 9.)
A center punch is used to make depressions in metal so that a drill may
be started in a given place. It is used also to mark places or distances
on the surface of metal when the metal is to be bent at a certain place.
Center punches are made from hexagonal tool steel about 4 by ½-inch,
drawn to a point and ground to a short angle. (See Figure 10.)
[Illustration: Fig. 11. Flat Tongs.
Fig. 12. Hot Chisel. Cold Chisel.
Fig. 13. Flatter. Fig. 14. Set Hammer.]
In heating and handling short pieces of stock, tongs are used (see Figure
11) which are made from Swedish iron or mild steel; they are made in
various sizes and shapes according to use. They are called pick-ups,
flat, round-nose, and bolt tongs according to the shape of the lips.
Tongs should always be made to fit the piece being forged. One cannot
hold a piece of iron properly with tongs that do not fit the piece.
They may be heated and fitted to the stock when occasion demands. One
important reason why tongs should fit the piece being hammered, is that
when turning and striking the piece there is danger of the piece being
knocked out of the tongs in a whirling motion and the flying piece of hot
iron is liable to strike someone; this danger must be closely watched.
Tongs should not be heated red hot and cooled in water; this destroys
them.
Hot and cold chisels are used in cutting stock. The blade of the hot
chisel is made very thin, while the cold chisel is made blunt to stand
the heavy strain in cutting. They are generally made with a hole thru
them, called the eye, to receive a wooden handle. These chisels are
struck on with a sledge hammer. (See Figure 12.)
Iron and steel are sometimes smoothed with a tool called a flatter. This
tool is struck on with a sledge, and should not be used to stretch iron.
Its purpose is only to give the work a smooth finish. Figure 13 shows a
flatter, and Figure 14 a set-hammer. The set-hammer is always used to
smooth and draw stock. All of these tools are made from tool-steel.
A heading tool is made from a flat piece of soft steel with a hole in one
end. Sometimes a carbon steel face is welded on. The heading tool is used
mostly in heading bolts. Heading tools are made with different sized
holes. (See Figure 15.)
[Illustration: Fig. 15. Heading Tool.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16. Top and Bottom Swages.]
Swages and fullers are used to smooth and form iron into various shapes.
The swages generally have half round depressions in them. They are made
in pairs called top and bottom swage. The bottom one fits the square
hole of the anvil; the top one has a hole for a wooden handle. (See
drawing Figure 16.) The fullers are also made in pairs called top and
bottom fullers. They are used to make depressions in metal. (See drawing
Figure 17.) When referring to swages, fullers, and other tools of this
character, blacksmiths speak of anvil tools. Special anvil tools are
used in doing various kinds of forging, and are made when needed. The
anvil tools should be kept in a tool rack next to the anvil. These tools
should be made from tool-steel of about 75-point carbon, or they may be
purchased from a dealer. Some tools, such as swages, that do not require
continuous service, are made of soft steel.
The anvil tool should have a buggy-spoke for a handle. The handle should
stick thru the eye of the hole about one inch and should never be wedged.
If the handle is wedged it is more liable to be broken when the tool
is struck a glancing blow with the sledge hammer. This is very often
the case. The reason the spoke should stick thru the tool is that if it
should begin to work off the handle when struck with the sledge hammer,
the movement can be seen.
[Illustration: Fig. 17. Top and Bottom Fullers.]
Figure 18 shows a wrought vise suitable for school work. A cast iron
machinists’ vise should not be used excepting, perhaps, for bench work.
Figure 19 shows a cast-iron swage block with various sized holes, and
depressions around the edge for forming iron.
The stock used in a forge shop should be kept in a rack built for the
purpose. The different kinds of stock, such as soft and tool-steel,
common and Swedish iron, should be partly painted with a distinguishing
color, so that there will be no trouble finding what is wanted. For
instance, all soft steel should be painted white, tool-steel another
color, and so on. There should also be in the shop a shears to cut iron.
One of the ordinary hand-power shears in use today would be suitable and
may be purchased from a dealer.
[Illustration: Fig. 18. Vise.]
[Illustration: Fig. 19. Cast Iron Swage Block.]
In lighting the fire in the forge all of the cinders are cleaned out
down to the tuyere. This is done by scraping them to the sides of the
fire-place with the shovel. All clinkers should be picked out with the
hands and put under the forge. It is a good plan to pick out some of the
best pieces of coke and set them to one side on the forge, to be used
later on. The slide rod that controls the ash dump at the bottom of the
tuyere, is now pulled to allow the cinders and ashes to drop thru. Do not
allow a boy to pull the valve after the fire is started, as this wastes
the coke and is a bad habit to get into.
When the tuyere is clean, some shavings are lighted in the bottom and
when well burned, the coke is raked back on the fire. A little wind is
then turned on. Wet coal is banked around the sides and back of the fire.
When the fire is well started and loosened up in front with the poker and
most of the smoke burned, it is ready for heating. The coal in the box
should be thoroly mixed with water before putting it on the fire, for the
reason that it cokes better, and packs in around the sides of the fire,
keeping it from breaking thru. The coal box is always at the right of the
worker when he is facing the fire. The box on his left, and between the
down draft forges, is to hold water—not coal. There should be a water cup
of some sort hanging on a hook so that when water is needed for fire or
coal it may be handled with the cup.
A fire, when not properly handled becomes hollow, due to the center
burning out. If iron is heated in this kind of a fire, it will become
oxidized, that is to say, a dirty scale will form over the metal. Iron
cannot be properly heated, and it is impossible to get the welding heat
with a fire in this condition. The reason a fire becomes hollow is that
it may be filled with clinkers, or too much blast may have been used,
and when it comes in contact with the pieces being heated causes them to
cool and oxidize. Sometimes the fire will not be directly over the hole
in the tuyere; which is one cause of poor heating. This is a common fault
with boys working at the forge. Always have the fire over the hole in the
tuyere, and not to one side.
When the fire becomes hollow and dirty, clean it by picking out the
clinkers with the poker or scraper, then move the sides of the fire
towards the center of the tuyere with the shovel, keeping the well-coked
inner sides near the center of the tuyere, and having the center of fire
over the hole in the tuyere. Wet coal is now banked around the outer
sides. Always have a thick bed of coke under the piece being heated and
regulate the blast so as not to burn out the center of the fire at once.
See drawing of fire with piece about on the same plane with bottom of
hearth; notice dotted lines representing the wrong way to put stock in
the fire. (Fig. 20.)
[Illustration: Fig. 20. Section of Forge Fire.]
If two pieces of iron are placed in the fire and heated, they will become
gradually softer until they reach a state where the metal has become
sticky. If touched together the two pieces will stick. This is what is
known as welding heat. If they were taken to the anvil and hammered while
in this condition they would unite and become one piece. This would be
called welding. All metals cannot be welded. Iron, soft steel, low-carbon
tool steel and spring steel can be welded.
A flux is used in welding steel—this excludes the air and forms a pasty
surface on the metal which is squeezed out from between the surfaces of
the metal when hammered. Borax and the many welding compounds are used.
Very seldom is it necessary to use a flux on iron. Clean sand, which is
good, is used by many. Borax or welding compound is sometimes used on
very thin stock. For ordinary welding, such as is being done in school
shops, borax should never be used. It is poor practice, unnecessary, and
a useless waste.
In heating iron, if it is brought beyond the welding heat, it will become
softer and softer until it will finally burn. This may be known by the
great number of little explosive sparks coming from the fire. These
little sparks are particles of iron separating from the bar and burning.
As the heat gradually rises, the metal separates. If the bar were now
placed on the anvil and struck a hard blow with a hammer, it would fly
to pieces. Therefore, judgment must be used in striking the first blow
on any welding heat—it should be light. The succeeding blows should be
made gradually harder. A hard blow at the start might make the metal fly
to pieces, or make the upper piece slip away from the under piece. If
lighter blows were struck, the weld might be made in good shape.
The principal thing in welding is to have a clean fire. All of the
clinkers must be kept out. The fire should be a well burned one, without
much smoke or gas, and never any green coal near the pieces being heated.
Well burned pieces of coke around the metal should always be used in
raising the welding heat. In raising the welding heat very little blast
should be used at first. Heat the pieces slowly so as to get them hot
thruout.