CHAPTER II

JESUS PEREZ

Jesus Perez took us to Spain in spirit while we were still in Paris. We

were off to Spain to paint, that being the normal course of our lives,

but in addition Jan had formed a fixed resolution that happen what might

he was not coming home without having bought a good Spanish guitar by

the best guitar-maker he could find, while I wished to buy a Spanish

lute. Arias and Ramirez, the two best modern _luthiers_ in Madrid, both

had recently died; we had, however, the address of the widow of Ramirez,

who carried on her husband's business, but faintly in Jan's mind a cloud

hung over the lady's name. He did not trust her. Not she, but Ramirez

had made those superfine instruments. So we were overjoyed to meet Perez

upon the Boulevard Montparnasse soon after our arrival in Paris. Perez

was a friend of ours from the times before the war. He was almost a

mystery man. Native of Malaga, self-styled painter--though he never

showed his work--nobody could tell how he had managed to make a living

during fifteen years of apparently unproductive existence. It is true

that one summer he had disappeared from the quarter, returning late in

November browned by the sun, and had explained that he had been

smuggling in the Pyrenees; but that event was an exception, and for some

months subsequently Perez was obviously well off as a result of his

risky enterprises. Normally, he survived like so many others in the

Quartier Montparnasse, drawing sufficient nourishment (supplemented very

obviously by borrowing) from mysterious sources. But while most of his

confrères in penury had no talents, not even the talent for painting,

Perez did know the guitar. Rumour said that he was one of the best

amateur players of the Jota Arragonesa in Spain. Rumour may have

exaggerated without detracting from the real quality of Perez's

exquisite gift.

We saw a Perez very much polished up by so many years of war. He wore a

clean straw hat, new clothes of the latest cut, a waistcoat of check

with ornamental buttons, patent leather boots with a lacquer which flung

back the rays of the June sun, and heavy owlish eyeglasses of

tortoise-shell fastened with a broad black ribbon. Indeed, so

transformed was he, that it was he who recognized us; and for some

moments we stood trying to pierce through the new respectability, as

though it were through a disguise.

Seated together at the "Rotonde" we exchanged some petty items of news.

Perez had but recently returned from Spain; he had held a small

exhibition, he said, which had provided funds; pictures were selling

well in Spain.... He was delighted to hear of our plan, and thereupon

wrote for us an introduction to a painter, a friend, who lived in

Madrid. "Un homme très serviable," he said, manufacturing a French word

out of one Spanish. Jan then asked his question. "A good guitar-maker in

Spain," said Perez, pinching his lower lip between finger and thumb. He

shook his head slowly.

"A good guitar-maker," repeated Perez. "In Madrid, eh? Frankly, no, I do

not know of one at the moment. And you are going away at once. Tomorrow.

Well, this afternoon I am free, that is good. The best guitar-maker at

the moment lives here, here in Paris. His name is Ramirez. Yes, a

relative of that other Ramirez. He has found a new form for the guitar.

More fine, more powerful. Each one like a genuine _Torres_. You come

with me. I will show you one or two that he made from an old piano which

he pulled to pieces for the wood. Exquisite! And if you like them,

together we will seek out Ramirez and he will make you one. He is very

busy, oh, excessively busy, but he will make you one because he is an

old friend of mine."

So the hot afternoon found us sweating up the slopes of Montmartre.

"First," said Perez, "I will take you to the house of a friend who

possesses two of Ramirez' guitars. One is one of those made from the old

piano. It is marvellous!"

But when we reached the street he could not remember the number. It was

four years, he explained, since last he had been there.

"However," he went on, "not far away is another possessor of such a

guitar; possibly he will be in."

Up the hill we went into streets which became more narrow and more

steep, until at length he led us through a courtyard with pinkwashed

walls, up five flights of polished stairs, to a studio door upon which a

visiting card was pinned:

AUGUSTE LA BRANCHE

_Artiste Peintre_

_Aquafortist_

The door, under Perez's knuckles, sounded hollow and forlorn. We waited

for a while, and Perez was beginning to finger his lip when a faint

shuffle on the other side of the door changed into the noise of locks.

The door swung ajar revealing a small man, with a thin face and tousled

head, clad in pyjamas and a Jaeger dressing-gown which trailed behind

him on the floor. Failing to penetrate to the real Perez, as we also had

failed, he blinked inquiringly at us. A moment of confused explanation

ended with a warm hand-shake. Perez explained our presence and our

purpose; with protestations of apology for his _négligé_ M. La Branche

led us into his studio.

[Illustration]

From the card upon his door we must presume that M. La Branche was both

painter and etcher, and pictures hanging from the walls, and an etching

press almost buried beneath a mound of tossed draperies, were evidences

of the fact. But where he found space either to paint or to etch was a

puzzle. The large studio was crammed with bric-à-brac. Indian tables,

Chinese tables, wicker chairs, lacquer stools, screens, figures in

armour, large vases, birdcages and innumerable articles strewed the

floor, across which narrow lines of bare parquet showed like channels

upon the chart of an estuary. Over the chairs were heaped draperies,

on the tables smaller bric-à-brac crowded together. Upon a sofa thrust

to one side sat a woman methodically sewing at the hem of a long sheet.

She took no notice of us, nor of M. La Branche, but continued her

sewing, careful, however, not to swing her arm too wide for fear of

banging into several guitars and other musical instruments, which

almost disputed possession of the sofa with her.

Having cleared a table and sufficient chairs, M. La Branche gave us _thé

anglais_, by the usual complex French method. Then from amongst his

guitars he selected that made by Ramirez, and sitting down began to

play. It is strange how a man's personality appears in everything he

does. M. La Branche in his paintings was an expert painter rather than

an artist; his etchings, large colour plates, showed a similar skill

with the burin. His music was of the same nature. Everything that a

practiced player should do, he did; his nimble fingers raced up and down

the frets, his tempo and his modulations were impeccable, yet he did not

make music. But we had not come with the intention of hearing music, but

of hearing the qualities and power of the guitar, and this was, perhaps,

more ably shown by the technicalities of M. La Branche than it might

have been in the hands of a more artistic though less able musician.

The shop of Ramirez, the luthier, was down the hill, and to this,

thoroughly satisfied about the excellence of his instruments, we went,

Perez grumbling to us in undertones.

"That fellow La Branche--he does not play Spanish music. No--he comes

from Toulouse. That explains it. It is the talent of the South of

France, all on the top, all lively and excitable and showing off--that

is how it is. Now I tell you, Monsieur and Madame Gordon, just because

of that the Frenchman never will be able to understand our music. You

English are nearer to us. You, when you have acquired ability, will play

our music with much more insight and much more sensibility than that La

Branche."

This comforted us exceedingly, for one day in wrath Modigliani, the

Italian painter, had said that it was mere impertinence for an

Englishman to think that he could understand the subtleties of the music

of Spain.

Ramirez almost makes his guitars out in the street. His workshop was

about ten feet square with a door six feet wide. Here was a piece of

pure Spain, though we could not recognize it (at the moment having no

data), ten feet square, thrust bodily into the lower floor of a French

house. The only light came in from the door, but the door was nearly as

broad as the room. Almost blocking up the entrance, Ramirez, a burly,

blue-jowled Spaniard, with something of the physical construction of a

boxer, was working at delicate shavings of wood. Behind him the wall was

hung with templates, cut from white wood, of the parts of the

instruments he was making, guitars and lauds and bandurrias, strange

instruments which Europe, outside of Spain, scarcely knows. On a shelf

at the back of the small shop were heaped unfinished bandurrias bound

with string, for the glue to become hardened in them. The workshop of

Ramirez was not what we had expected. One is, I think, justified in

expecting a neatness, a delicacy, about the place where fine musical

instruments are made. Had Ramirez been a maker of chairs, or even of

cartwheels, his workshop, though small, would have appeared appropriate;

but that, from this rough place, could come out "the most difficult of

musical instruments to make" disturbed one's sense of suitability.

The greeting which Ramirez gave us touched with doubt the picture which

we had conceived of the amiability of the Spaniard. There was no

cordiality in him. Some of his aloofness cleared away when he had

penetrated through the disguise of a dandy to the real Perez beneath,

but he continued his occupation, and to the statement that we wished him

to make a guitar for Jan he shrugged his fat shoulders. He declared that

he had already too much work.

"Those two instruments, for instance," he said, pointing to two

unfinished guitars elaborately ornamented standing in a corner, "I have

already been nine months over those, and have not had time to finish

them. It is true they are exhibition instruments, for shops, and

therefore have little if any interest for me."

Perez led him on with compliments, thawing away his frostiness gradually

with Jan's admiration for the guitar of M. La Branche. Suddenly Ramirez

put down his tools.

"Look here," he said, "I'll make the Señor a guitar. Three hundred

francs is the price, and it will be finished in three months."

The bargain concluded, Ramirez picked up one of the unfinished

instruments. He handed it to Jan, exhorting him to explore with a finger

the exquisite workmanship of its interior. He rapped on the belly with

his knuckle, and at the sound of its deep musical boom he smiled for the

first time. Ramirez, having thawed, did not freeze up again. He began

explaining the novel shape of his instrument, a shape which had been

worked out for him by a mathematical philosopher. He said that the

guitar was the most difficult of musical instruments to make, requiring

a volume of tone which had to be produced from strings easy to pluck and

finger. A problem very difficult to solve.

"And the guitar I made for you," he said, turning to Perez, "you gave it

to S----?"

"Yes," said Perez.

"See here," said Ramirez, turning to us, "I make a guitar, an excellent

one, one of my best. This fellow comes to see me, he hears the

instrument. He says to me, 'Ramirez, keep that guitar for me, and I will

at once go to work in a French munition factory, and I will work like a

slave, and every week I will send you money until the guitar is paid

for.' And I agree. And he goes and makes aeroplanes, and does honest

work for the first time in his life, I believe, and every week he sends

money to me. And the week it is all paid up he stops work and goes off

with the guitar. And he is crazy about the instrument. And he goes back

to Spain and then he hears S---- playing. He is so enraptured by the

wonderful playing of the man, that he runs home, fetches his guitar, and

thrusts it into S---- 's hands, exclaiming: 'Here is an instrument

worthy of you. It is too good for me, for I am a mere bungler beside

you.' And so he gives away the guitar that he has laboured for. Ah yes,

you villain, I have heard of you."

As we went down the hill, Perez tried to explain away this generosity so

characteristic of his impulsive nature.

"It is not as though I would have played on the instrument again after

having heard S---- touch it. Every time that I wished to play I would

have thought, 'Ah yes, but if only _he_ were playing it and not I.' And

I had to give it to him, or perhaps I would never have been able to play

again."

He asked us to come that evening to a certain small café in the Rue

Campagne Premier; some other Spaniards were to come also and there was

to be playing and singing. We were to come after the legal closing time,

and we were to thump on the shutters.

In the night, in the dark, we rapped upon the rusty iron shutters, and

one by one, like conspirators, were admitted into the dimly-lit café. It

was a small place, characteristic of Paris, a combination of _buvette_

with zinc bar, and cheap restaurant with marble-topped tables. Five

years ago a good meal could be bought here for less than a franc. Behind

the bar bottles and glass vats reached up to the ceiling; upon the

dirty, green, oil-painted walls, cheap almanacs and trivial popular

prints hung, together with excellent drawings and sketches, presented to

Madame by her clients. One by one the _invités_ slipped in. Madame and

her two girl waitresses laughed and giggled at the kitchen door, while

the _patron_, grey-moustached, hollow-eyed and cadaverous, uncorked the

bottles of wine behind the bar.

Here again for several hours the Spaniards re-created Spain. Perez is a

player of temperament. Half of his skill and art he appears to suck from

his audience. Thus at first he plays but indifferently well; but any

music will rouse a crowd of Spaniards. To the growing excitement Perez

responds, playing the better for it, thus creating more enthusiasm, and

these interchanges continue, until he reaches the limit of his ability.

But he is so sensitive to his audience that one indifferent person can

take the edge off all his power. This night there was no one

unresponsive. The playing of Perez became more and more brilliant. With

his nails be rasped deep chords from his responsive instrument; to and

fro he beat the strings in the remorseless rhythm of Jota Arragonesa. In

the dimly lit café the dark figures and the sallow faces of the

Spaniards were crowded about him in an irregular circle. "Olé! Olé!"

they cried, and clapped their hands in time with the music. The air

within the café throbbed and pulsated with the music. "Mais, c'est très

bien," exclaimed Madame at intervals from her corner. "C'est très

amusant, hein?" Two of the younger men were murmuring to the waitresses

and were making them titter.

"Come," exclaimed Perez at last, "enough of this piece playing. Let us

have a song. Vamos! who will sing?"

But something, possibly my presence, deterred the Spaniards from

singing. They were shy as a group of schoolboys. One at last began to

chant in a high quavering falsetto, but before the first half of his

_copla_ was ended he broke down into a laugh of hysterical shyness.

"Why then," cried Perez, "I'll have to sing myself, and Heaven knows

I've got no voice."

The Spaniard believes that any singing is better than no singing. One of

his chief pursuits in life is that of happiness--"_allègre_" he calls

it. This _allègre_ is produced not by perfect results but by evidence

of good intentions. He would rather have a bad player who plays from his

heart than a good player who plays for his pocket. Any singing, then, so

long as it is of the right nature, will suffice, no matter what its

musical effect. Perez's singing had _allègre_, but no music. He lowed

like a calf, rising up into strange throaty hoarseness like a barrow

merchant who has been crying his goods all day, and descending into dim

growls of deep notes. But even he at last tired; and after Madame had

been yawning for some while, after the last bottle of wine had been

drained of its last drops, we slipped out one by one into the moonlit

streets of Paris and said our farewells on the Boulevard.

Poor Folk in Spain · 第 2 / 28 章