Sir Joshua appears to have been but an irregular manager in his
conviviality. “Often was the dinner board prepared for seven or eight,
required to accommodate itself to fifteen or sixteen; for often, on the
very eve of dinner, would Sir Joshua tempt afternoon visitors with
intimation that Johnson, or Garrick, or Goldsmith was to dine there. Nor
was the want of seats the only difficulty. A want of knives and forks,
of plates and glasses, as often succeeded. In something of the same
style, too, was the attendance; the kitchen had to keep pace with the
visitors; and it was easy to know the guests best acquainted with the
house by their never failing to call instantly for beer, bread, or wine,
that they might get them before the first course was over, and the worst
confusion began. Once was Sir Joshua prevailed upon to furnish his table
with dinner-glasses and decanters; and some saving of time they proved;
yet, as they were demolished in the course of service, he could never be
persuaded to replace them. “But these trifling embarrassments,” says Mr.
Courtenay, describing them to Sir James Macintosh, “only served to
enhance the hilarity and the singular pleasure of the entertainment.”
It was not the wine, dishes, and cookery, not the fish and venison, that
were talked of or recommended: those social hours, that irregular
convivial talk, had matter of higher relish, and far more eagerly
enjoyed. And amid all the animated bustle of his guests, the host sat
perfectly composed; always attentive to what was said, never minding
what was ate or drank, and leaving every one at perfect liberty to
scramble for himself.”--_Forster’s Life of Goldsmith._