19th January 1839.
At the entrance of the Red Sea, on the coast of Asia, and the
southernmost point of Arabia Felix, is situated the town of Aden. It
lies eastward of the Straits of Babel Mandel, and immediately
opposite the coast of Berbera, in Africa, from which it is divided by
the Sea of Aden.
Cape Aden is a high, rocky promontory, consisting of several peaks,
the most elevated of which is 1,776 feet above the level of the sea.
They have ruined forts and watch-towers on their summits, which give
them the appearance of turrets. From a distance this lofty headland
looks like an island, and its position is in a degree similar to that
of Gibraltar, being connected with the mainland by a piece of low
ground, which in some places is a swamp. Its aspect is grand and
picturesque, though extremely barren and wild, and utterly destitute
of vegetation.
The town lies on the east side of this cape, about five miles from
the landing-place and anchorage, and is situated in a sort of
amphitheatre, surrounded on three sides by lofty hills, and open to
the sea on the fourth. To the west of the promontory is a fine bay
with a sandy beach, where good water is to be procured.
On the western side is a range of rocks extending out nearly as far
south as the Hill of Aden itself. The tops of these are singularly
broken, and rise into Gothic spires in several parts. Two of them
have got the name of the Ass's Ears. At a short distance from the
Rock of Aden is a small island, formerly covered with fortifications
like the hill-forts in India. Strong fortifications defend the
anchorage, and command the entrance of the bay, which is quite
land-locked. The road to the town follows the sea-shore for about
two miles, with high crags on one side, and rocks rising out of the
water on the other. An ascent then leads to an aperture in the
hills, called the Pass, which is narrow and winding, and enclosed on
either side by rocks; and at length the town is approached by a steep
declivity.
The commanding position of Aden rendered it a place of great
importance when the chief communication between Europe and India was
by the way of the Red Sea, before the discovery of the passage round
the Cape.
For centuries the Red Sea passage was neglected, till lately resumed
under the name of the Overland Route. During the reign of
Constantine, Aden was an opulent city, and formed one of the great
emporia of the commerce of the East. As a trading port it possesses
great advantages over Mocha, as its harbours may be entered or
quitted at any period of the year: the coffee districts are nearer to
it than to Mocha; many large towns in Yemen are within an easy
journey of it; the mountains to the north produce gum, frankincense,
and coffee; and drugs, gums, perfumes, spices, honey, and wax are
collected in the neighbourhood.
As, also, it is directly north of Berbera, vessels, during the
north-east monsoon, can reach it with the produce of Africa in 24
hours, and return with equal speed, with English and Indian
manufactures. British goods can thus be introduced into Africa in
exchange for coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, elephants' teeth, gold dust,
ostrich feathers, &c.
Arabs form the largest number of the population of Aden; though Jews,
Banians from Cutch, and Soomalies, natives of Berbera, who are
Mahometans, are found among them.
Aden, after remaining for many centuries in the power of the Arabs,
was, in 1539, seized by the Turks, under Sulimaun Pasha.
The Portuguese, in 1513, were twice defeated in attempts to capture
it, at which time the fortifications were of considerable strength.
As the power of the Turks declined, the Arabs threw off their yoke,
and placed it under the ride of a native prince, under the title of
the Sultan of Aden.
It had by this time sadly declined; its trade had departed, the
number of its inhabitants had diminished, and its chief buildings
were little better than heaps of ruins, though some of its
fortifications were still formidable.
Successive Sultans of Aden had been very friendly with the English.
In 1838 Aden was given up to the British Government by treaty, by the
then Sultan. Captain Haines, of the Indian Navy, was sent there as
political agent, to see the articles of the treaty faithfully carried
out. The Sultan, however, had in the meantime changed his mind, and
refused to fulfil his agreement.
Now, we have seen that the possession of the place was very important
to the political and commercial interests of Great Britain, and it
therefore became necessary to compel the Arab chief to keep to the
terms of the treaty he had entered into.
To effect this object, Rear-Admiral Sir Frederick Maitland, who was
at that time Commander-in-Chief on the East India Station, despatched
from the squadron Her Majesty's ships 'Volage,' Captain H. Smith, who
commanded the expedition, and the 'Cruiser,' accompanied by the
'Coote' corvette, and the 'Mahe' schooner, of the Indian Navy, while
a body of troops were sent in transports under the command of Major
Baillie.
The 'Volage' anchored on the 16th of January, and the same evening
Captain Smith received a letter from Captain Haines, the political
agent, informing him that all negotiation on his part had failed, and
that hostilities must forthwith commence. On this he communicated
with Major Baillie, the commander of the troops, and they resolved to
lose no time in attacking the place. The town was defended by about
1,000 Arabs, armed with matchlocks, and 24 brass and iron guns placed
in various batteries, some of the guns being mounted on a strong
tower in the island of Seerah, and others in a lower battery, while a
brass 68-pounder commanded the chief landing-place.
From the attitude assumed by the Sultan and his Arab followers, they
appeared resolved to defend the town with determined courage and
resolution, and to give occasion for some severe fighting before
they, were likely to yield.
The 17th was spent in drawing up the plan of the attack, and in
making the necessary preparations, and Captain Haines having come
off, and acting as pilot, the 'Volage' weighed with the rest of the
squadron to proceed to the front of the town, the 'Cruiser' towing a
mortar-boat.
On standing in towards the island of Seerah, a fire was opened on the
'Volage' with musketry and several large guns, when she fired in
return for a short time, but the 'Coote' corvette and transports not
having come up, she hauled off and anchored for the night.
On the morning of the 19th, the whole force having arrived, Captain
Smith made the signal to prepare to attack, and the troops to be held
in readiness for landing in two divisions. At half-past nine
o'clock, the 'Volage' anchored with a spring on her bower cable, in
four fathoms water, at about 300 yards distance from the lower
battery on the island of Seerah; at the same time the 'Mahe' took up
her position to the southward of the island. On standing in, the
enemy opened a fire of great guns and musketry on the ships, but from
the 'Volage' being laid so close to the shore, the guns on the height
were rendered useless, their shot passing over her. At ten o'clock,
the 'Cruiser' anchored, and by her fire destroyed the flank of the
battery. During this period a heavy firing was kept up from the
shore, but in a short time two of the guns in the lower battery were
dismounted, and most of the people were driven from the remainder,
they however took shelter behind the ruins of the battery, and kept
up an incessant fire of musketry on the ships, and although the lower
battery was almost knocked to pieces, the assailants had great
difficulty in dislodging them.
At this period Captain Smith directed the fire to be opened on the
round towers and batteries on the heights, which were filled with men
armed with matchlocks, and in the course of one hour, this tower
which was eighty feet high, and strongly built, was a mass of ruins.
At eleven o'clock the 'Coote' anchored, with the second division of
the troops, to the southward of the island, and opened her fire upon
the town. The fire not having yet ceased from the tower battery, the
'Mahe' schooner was directed to proceed to the end of it, and
endeavour to drive out the men from behind it by musketry. This
service was performed by her commander, Lieutenant Daniels, in a most
gallant manner; but during the action, Mr. Nesbitt, a midshipman on
board, was severely wounded.
The firing having now almost totally ceased, Captain Smith gave
directions for the boats of both divisions to land. Lieutenant
Dobree, who had charge of the first division, Mr. Rundle, mate, and a
quarter-master of the 'Volage' were the first on shore, and made for
the brass 68-pounder, which had several times been fired at the ship.
On their way, a matchlock was discharged at the quarter-master by a
man behind the gun. The Arab was immediately cut down by him, and
the first British flag was planted by Mr. Rundle. So completely were
the enemy driven from all points (with the exception of the island)
by the fire of the ships, that the whole of the troops landed with
the loss only of two men killed and three wounded.
A partial firing was still kept up from the island, when Captain
Smith directed Lieutenant Dobree, who had just returned, and two
mates, with a party of seamen, and Lieutenant Ayles, with the
marines, amounting altogether to fifty, to land and take possession
of it. This was gallantly accomplished, the party ascending the
height, spiking and dismounting the guns, taking the flag which had
been flying from the tower, and making prisoners of 139 armed Arabs,
who were conducted from the island to the mainland by the party, and
given over into the charge of Major Osborne.
While the military were attempting to disarm the prisoners, they made
a sudden and most formidable resistance with their daggers: and
before they were overcome, several men were lost on both sides. All
opposition having at length ceased, Aden was taken possession of by
the British forces. Mr. Nesbitt was the only person hurt on board
the squadron, and of the military, sixteen were killed and wounded.
The Arabs appeared to have had more confidence in their matchlocks
than in their great guns, which they served badly and fired
irregularly. Had it not been, however, for the total destruction of
their defences by the squadron, the troops would probably not have
accomplished their landing without a very severe loss. Of the
defenders, a great proportion were killed and wounded. Twenty-five
dead bodies were found on the island of Seerah alone, several in the
town, and twenty-five were lying wounded in the Mosque, among whom
was the Sultan's nephew, who defended the island. Thirty-three brass
and iron guns of various sizes were captured, and a large quantity of
ammunition and matchlocks. Among the guns were three large brass
Turkish pieces, which, at the desire of the victors, were sent to be
presented to Her Majesty, as the first warlike trophy taken during
her reign. Several attempts have since been made by the Arabs to
regain Aden, but without success; though, in consequence of their
hostility, the garrison are compelled to be ever vigilant, and the
English cannot, without great risk, visit the interior of the country.
The 'Volage' having performed this duty, returned to the East Indies,
and we hear of her soon afterwards in the China seas, engaged in a
severe action with a squadron of Chinese war-junks; an account of
which will be given when we come to narrate the war in China.