CHAPTER XVI

PARIS OF THE “GRAND MONARQUE”

History repeated itself when Louis XIII died, leaving as his heir a

child of five, Louis XIV (1643-1715), whose kingdom was ruled by a

regent, the queen mother, Anne of Austria, who took as her adviser

another cardinal, the Italian, Mazarin. This newcomer to power was a

different sort of man from his predecessor, Richelieu. “He possessed

wit, insinuation, gayety and good manners,” says de Retz, but “he

carried the tricks of the sharper into the ministry.”

War with Spain brought success at the beginning, but the Parisians were

all too soon quarreling over the finances, and in the thick of a civil

war. The people resented the arrest of a member of Parliament, Broussel,

which had been accomplished while the general attention was engaged by

the celebration at Notre Dame and in the streets over the victory at

Lens. De Retz, who was at that time archbishop suffragan of Paris, went

to Anne to ask for Broussel’s release. The queen laughed at him and so

roused his wrath that he joined the insurgents. He did it

whole-heartedly, for for some time to come he fought in the

streets--alternately with trying to calm the people--and once was seen

at a sitting of the Parliament of Paris with a dagger carelessly

protruding from his pocket--“the archbishop’s breviary,” some wit called

it.

After de Retz’s failure the Parliament sent a delegation to the regent

at the Palais Royal to demand the release of Broussel. Anne refused and

the burghers tucked up their gowns and clambered over the street

barricades to report their failure to the people. Half way across town

they were met by a mob who declined to accept any such decision as

final, and once more the envoys turned about and made their laborious

way back to the regent.

Anne finally yielded her prisoner, but her action did not end the

struggle, which was carried on for some years and was called the Fronde

(sling) because the members of Parliament behaved like the

stone-slinging youngsters of the faubourg Saint Honoré who gave way

before the king’s archers, but renewed their sport as soon as their

backs were turned. The contest seems to have been rather absurd, for

while the personal courage of the Parisians was unquestioned there was

no organization, and the troop that rode gaily out to meet the royal

regulars was pretty sure to ride back sad and bedraggled.

The little king was taken to Saint Germain for protection during this

year-long commotion, and it was not until peace between the warring

parties had been formally proclaimed that he returned to Paris.

This peace did not last long, for the _bourgeoisie_, some members of the

nobility and even a few princes of the blood royal were among the

disaffected Parisians. Anne and Mazarin adopted high-handed measures,

but they soon found that imprisoning men like the Prince de Condé of the

Bourbon family did not ingratiate the court with the people or advance

its cause. Two years later on a summer’s day Mazarin took the child king

to the top of the hill on which is now the cemetery of Père Lachaise

that he might watch a battle between his own troops under Turenne and

those under Condé just outside the city walls on the east. Condé’s force

was out-numbered and it looked as if he were going to be crushed between

Turenne’s army and the wall when the Porte Saint Antoine was suddenly

opened and the guns of the Bastille were used against Turenne while

Condé’s army gained this unexpected refuge.

It turned out that the king’s cousin, the Duchesse de Montpensier, known

as “La Grande Mademoiselle,” had taken upon herself to give the orders

which defeated the royal troops. This strong-minded young woman was the

bachelor girl of her time, and a “character.” What she would do next was

the constant guess and the constant diversion of the court. Although she

was eleven years older than Louis he was so captivated by her vivacity

that the cardinal thought it judicious to keep the cousins apart, and

gave her apartments at the Louvre. At one time during the siege of

Orléans she made her way across the moat in a small boat and squeezed

her way into the town through a postern gate. At love she scoffed and

she refused every offer of marriage that was made to her until she was

of an age ostensibly of discretion when she fell madly in love with an

adventurer. Her marital experiences undoubtedly made her return to her

earlier beliefs in the foolishness of love and marriage.

The court retreated to Saint Denis. The city was given over to internal

dissension for some of the city officials were accused of sympathizing

with the hated foreign cardinal and his party, and the Hôtel de Ville

became the center of violent scenes, its besiegers men who wore in their

hats a tuft of straw, the badge of the Frondeurs. It was only when Anne

consented to send Mazarin away that the Fronde came to an end and once

again Louis could return to Paris.

With such youthful experiences of his chief city it is small wonder that

Louis XIV had no great love for it as a place of residence and that he

spent most of his life at Versailles. The hunting lodge which Louis XIII

had built was the nucleus of the huge palace which his son made large

enough not only for his family and retinue but for a large number of the

nobles whom it was his policy to gather about him so that he could keep

his eye on them. By this means the power of the nobles was decreased on

their own estates while their respect for the king, on whose words and

smiles they hung, was enormously increased. A lord was grateful for a

room at Versailles even though it were so far from private as to be used

as a passage-way. Many of the nobility paid handsomely for positions in

the royal kitchens. Later in the reign these offices were held by

_bourgeois_, for the finances of this class improved as those of the

upper class lessened on account of decreased revenues from their

neglected estates. The burghers aped the nobles in manners and in dress,

and by favoring them, from whom he had nothing to fear, Louis gained the

friendship of an important body. He raised no objection when the

citizens took nobles into business partnership, for that served him both

by lowering ancient pride and by providing money upon which he could

make some demand.

In manners, dress and literature this reign was increasingly formal

following upon the example of Louis who was formal because he honestly

believed himself godlike and insisted on formality as appropriate. His

was a grand manner and his an incomparable selfishness. His belief in

the divine right of kings stretched until “right” meant the right to do

whatever he chose however unkind or immoral. Beneath the gorgeousness of

the court was a life of hypocrisy, self-seeking, and crime almost beyond

belief.

The godlike sovereign certainly had a more than human appetite. It is

related that at one dinner he ate:

Four plates of different kinds of soup

A whole pheasant

A partridge

A large plate of salad

Two large slices of ham

A bowl of mutton with gravy and garlic

A plate of pastry

Fruit

Several hard-boiled eggs.

In theatrical parlance, he was “playing to capacity.”

Upon Mazarin’s death the king, then twenty-three years old and ignorant

of independent action, had made known his intention of conducting

affairs himself. For the rest of his life he worked hard every day at

the affairs of the state, comforted when things went wrong with the

refreshing thought that the fault was not his because he had acted with

God-given intelligence. The early part of his career was marked by such

advance in the condition of the finances, the laws, education, the army,

and industrial achievement that, provided he blinded himself to the fact

that in Colbert, Vauban and Louvois he had exceptionally efficient

administrators, he might well think himself a paragon of intelligence.

Great generals won his battles; great writers praised his power; great

artists and architects built grandly in his honor. It is not strange

that he thought himself what others called him, the “Grand Monarque” and

the “Roi Soleil.”

Centralization was the basic policy of Louis’s career. In Paris it took

the form of substituting a law court under royal control for the local

courts in different parts of the city, and in making the municipal

offices purchasable from the king. Municipal improvements made the city

pleasanter to live in. An effort was made--not very successfully from

the modern point of view--to keep the streets clean, and at night a

lantern was hung midway between cross streets and burned until midnight.

As the number of lights installed was but 6,500 and Paris at that time

covered some four square miles of territory it may be seen that the

illumination was not dazzling. It was enough, however, to be of

assistance to Louis’ new police force, and to make visible in the

evening as well as the morning the two gates--of Saint Denis and Saint

Martin--erected by the admiring Parisians to do honor to his early

victories. The fire department became a lay institution at this time

for, rather curiously, fire fighting had previously been the work of a

religious house. The population is estimated at between eight and nine

hundred thousand.

Two new squares of this century were the Place des Victoires, in front

of Notre Dame des Victoires, and the Place Vendôme, north of the rue

Saint Honoré. By a city regulation no change is permitted to-day of the

façades of the buildings on these two open places.

At the extreme eastern end of modern Paris the Place de la Nation is the

former Place du Trône, which received its name when in 1660 Louis sat

upon a temporary throne beyond the city wall to receive congratulations

upon having secured the Peace of the Pyrenees.

The poet Scarron, husband of Françoise d’Aubigné who, after his death,

became the governess of the king’s children by Madame de Montespan, and

who later was married secretly to Louis, has left a description of Paris

in the “Great Century.” The translation is by Walter Besant.

Houses in labyrinthine maze;

The streets with mud bespattered all;

Palace and prison, churches, quays,

Here stately shop, there shabby stall.

Passengers black, red, gray and white,

The pursed-up prude, the light coquette;

Murder and Treason dark as night;

With clerks, their hands with ink-stains wet;

A gold-laced coat without a sou,

And trembling at a bailiff’s sight;

A braggart shivering with fear;

Pages and lackeys, thieves of night!

And ’mid the tumult, noise and stink of it,

There’s Paris--pray, what do you think of it?

An epitome of society this. Paris was indeed full of adventurers, of

criminals even among the high-born, of gamblers so mad over games of

chance that special laws had to be passed driving them out of the city.

There is still standing near the Hôtel de Ville the Hôtel d’Aubray where

lived the famous poisoner, the Marquise de Brinvilliers.

A glance at the career of this woman shows a social condition amazing in

its calm iniquity. The marquise herself, of seemingly guileless charm,

acquired from a lover the destructive skill which she utilized in

removing from her path her relatives and any other people who interfered

with her in any way. Her trial is a “celebrated case” not only because

of her own rank but because other people of note were suspected of being

in collusion with her. Torture was abolished under Louis XIV but not

until after Madame de Brinvilliers had been made to drink many buckets

of water and to be sadly bent across wooden horses.

She was beheaded on the Grève, her body burned and the ashes thrown to

the winds. At about the same time accident disclosed an astounding

number of cases of poisoning or attempted poisoning. Mme. de Montespan

undoubtedly tried to make way with the father of her children, the king,

and rumors were constant of many other instances. “So far,” said Mme. de

Sevígné’s son, “I have not been accused of attempting to poison little

mamma, and that is a distinction in these days.”

Paris was lively enough during this reign, for Versailles was not so far

away but that its people could go to town for city diversions, and as

Louis grew more serious with age and court etiquette more rigorous and

burdensome, the town made its call more and more insistently. Louis

himself, hugely bewigged and elaborately elegant, however, does not

often appear in the picture. Once he took part in a gorgeous

_carrousel_--a carnival chiefly of equestrian sports--which took place

in the large square--now called the Place du Carrousel--lying between

the Louvre and the Tuileries. Once, twenty-five years later, he was

entertained at the Hôtel de Ville at a dinner at which the city

officials waited upon him in person. Yet neither of these pictures

lingers in the memory like that of the bewigged monarch usually most

punctilious in his dress for occasions, appearing in the palace of the

Cité before the Parliament, booted for the chase, arrogantly careless of

any courtesy toward the body he addressed and haughtily insisting with

the full force of his sincere belief that he and the State were

one,--“_L’État c’est moi_.”

Power was dear to the king’s heart and he so impressed his magnificence

on his people that they thought it only fitting that he should have a

rising sun carved on the buildings which he erected, such as that part

of the Louvre which he built to complete the eastern quadrangle. (See

plan, Chapter XXII). The eastern exterior of this section, facing the

church of Saint Germain l’Auxerrois, shows the superb colonnade designed

by Perrault, a sort of universal genius, who was both a physician and an

architect. Another piece of his work was the Observatory, still in

active use on the left bank near the University. The king’s appreciation

of splendor demanded completeness, and so his handsome buildings were

placed in the setting of stately gardens, his chief designer being Le

Nôtre whose work is still to be seen encircling the palaces in the

environs of Paris. In the city he laid out the gardens of the Tuileries,

and that superb avenue, the Champs Elysées, which leads from the broad

Place de la Concorde to Napoleon’s Arch of Triumph. The four hundredth

anniversary of Le Nôtre’s birth was celebrated on March 12, 1913, when

Parisians recalled his work with almost unanimous approval because of

its harmony with the impressive buildings which it supplemented.

Other important buildings of Louis’ reign were the Invalides or

Soldiers’ Home with its church and its later addition, the work of

Mansard who gave his name to the curb-roof which we know. Beneath

Mansard’s beautiful dome the body of Napoleon now lies “among the people

whom I loved.”

Louis’ contest with the pope over the king’s position as head of the

French church tended to lessen his interest in the establishment of

religious institutions, but the famous church of Saint Sulpice, whose

twin towers are landmarks on the left bank, was begun by him, together

with the seminary whose square ugliness is soon to house the overflow

from the near-by Luxembourg museum. Since the quarrel between church and

state in 1902-03, the building has stood bleakly empty except when it

was used to shelter some of the refugees made homeless by the Seine

floods a few years ago.

The Abbey-in-the-Woods, removed by Louis from Picardy to Paris and made

famous by the residence there in the middle of the last century of the

witty Madame Récamier, has been until very recently one of the chief

historic “sights” near the celebrated left bank department store, the

_Bon Marché_.

The Church of Saint Nicholas-du-Chardonnet is interesting chiefly

because of the tomb which LeBrun, the painter, designed in honor of his

mother, a sepulcher opening at the summons of a hovering angel.

Among Louis’ good works must be counted the union of several hospitals

into one known as the Salpêtrière from its occupying the site of a

saltpeter manufactory, and devoted to-day to the care of nervous

diseases and insanity.

The tapestry manufactory of the Gobelins family was received into royal

favor by Louis and then as now did its work only for the government. Its

products to-day, painstakingly made by skillful workmen who have given

their lives to this task as did their fathers before them, are never

sold, but are used for the decoration of public buildings and as gifts

for people whom the state wishes to honor.

Of comparatively small houses belonging to this century the best

remaining instances are the Pavilion of Hanover, in which is the Paris

office of the New York _Times_; the Hôtel Mazarin which now contains the

fine collection of books known as the National Library; the Hôtel de la

Vrillière, now the Bank of France, with an _échauguette_ (observation

turret) by Mansard; the Hôtel de Soubise, used with the Hôtel de

[Illustration: HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.]

[Illustration: SAINT SULPICE.

From a print of about 1820.]

Clisson to house the national archives; the near-by Hôtel de Hollande,

once the Dutch embassy; and the Hôtel Beauvais from whose balcony the

queen-mother, the Queen of England, Cardinal Mazarin and Turenne watched

the entrance of Louis XIV and his bride, Maria Theresa of Spain.

The latter part of Louis’ reign showed a constant decline in power

resulting from a decline in common sense no less than from the loss of

able advisers. Taxes brought the peasants to poverty, famine killed them

when disease did not. Territory was lost. As a last burst of stupidity

the revocation of the Edict of Nantes drove out of the country the best

class of artisans who took their intelligence and skill to the

enrichment of other countries. The beginning of the eighteenth century

found France with a selfish nobility, and a disordered _bourgeoisie_ and

a peasantry in whose hearts was smoldering the fire of bitter hatred

that was to burst forth into flame at the Revolution. During the winter

of 1709, six years before Louis’ death, the cold was so severe that five

thousand people died of their sufferings in Paris alone, and the

scarcity of food was so pronounced that the purveyors of the court had

difficulty in securing enough for the king himself to eat.

So ended in suffering and sullenness the reign of the _Grand Monarque_.

Twenty Centuries of Paris · 第 16 / 22 章