CHAPTER I

Transcriber’s Note

Footnotes have all been renumbered from 1 to 20.

Page 76 — bougeoises changed to bourgeoises.

Page 332 — biassed changed to biased.

The Advertisements “By Same Author”, have been placed at the back of

the project.

MARY RUSSELL MITFORD

[Illustration: _From a Portrait by A. Burt_ _taken in 1836._]

MARY RUSSELL MITFORD AND HER SURROUNDINGS

BY

CONSTANCE HILL

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY ELLEN G. HILL AND REPRODUCTIONS OF PORTRAITS

“There are few names which fall with a pleasanter sound upon the ears

of those who adopt authors as friends than the name of Mary Russell

Mitford.”

LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY. MCMXX

_The centre design in the binding represents a French gold enamelled

watch which belonged to Mrs. Mitford and was inherited by her daughter.

The original is in the possession of the Misses Lovejoy._

WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON, LTD., PRINTERS, PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND

PREFACE

The more we study the life and character of Mary Russell Mitford the

more we become attached to her, for we come under the influence of a

nature that seems to radiate peace and good-will upon all who surround

her.

“The pleasant compelled enjoyment of her tales,” writes Harriet

Martineau, “is ascribable no doubt to the flow of good spirits and

kindliness that lighted up and warmed everything that her mind

produced.” And if we seek for a further reason, surely it is to be

found, as another writer observes, “in their strong rural flavour. They

breathe the air of the hay-fields and the scent of the hawthorn boughs.

There is nothing artificial about them, nothing of the conventional

pastoral. They are native and to the manner born.”

Here is an example that occurs in a letter to a friend, written long

before her printed works appeared. Speaking of a walk in the Berkshire

meadows on a spring morning, she says: “Oh, how beautiful they were

to-day, with all their train of callow goslings, and frisking lambs,

and laughing children chasing the butterflies that floated like

animated flowers in the air!... How full of fragrance and of melody!

It is when walking in such scenes, listening to the mingled notes of a

thousand birds and inhaling the mingled perfume of a thousand flowers

that I feel the real joy of existence.”

Many writers have imitated Miss Mitford’s style since the “tales” of

_Our Village_ first took the reading world by surprise nearly a hundred

years ago; but none of those writers, in my opinion, possess her potent

charm, nor do they possess her wonderful power of making her readers

see nature, as it were, through her eyes and grasp the beauty and

poetry of rural life.

Mary as a child was shy and silent before strangers, but withal very

observant. Writing of the impressions made upon her mind by some of the

French _émigré_ coteries with which she had come in contact, she says:

“In truth they formed a motley group [whose] contrasts and combinations

were too ludicrous not to strike irresistibly the fancy of an acute

observing girl whose perception of the ludicrous was rendered keener

by the invincible shyness which confined the enjoyment entirely to her

own breast.”

But is it not to the experiences gained by such quiet, shy children as

herself and Charlotte Brontë that we owe much of our knowledge of life

and its surroundings? It is the listeners not the talkers that can hand

down this knowledge to us.

Miss Mitford’s talents were varied, and we owe to her pen some stirring

dramas which were performed with much éclat on the London stage, and

in which John Kemble and Macready took the leading parts. The public

were astonished to learn that it was a gentle lady living in a remote

Berkshire village who was thus moving the great London audiences.

A shrewd American critic of the day remarks: “In all these plays there

is strong, vigorous writing—masculine in the free unhashed use of

language—but wholly womanly in its purity from coarseness or licence

and in the inter-mixture of those incidental touches of softest feeling

and finest observation which are peculiar to the gentler sex.”

It has been said of Miss Mitford by one who knew her that “as

a letter-writer she has rarely been surpassed, and that her

correspondence, so full as it is of point in allusions, so full of

anecdote and of recollections, will be considered among her finest

writings.” Even her hasty notes, we are told, “had a relish about

them quite their own.” It is interesting to find the views she

herself entertained on the subject of letter-writing as given in her

_Recollections of a Literary Life_. It runs as follows: “Such is the

reality and identity belonging to letters written at the moment and

intended only for the eye of a favourite friend, that probably any

genuine series of epistles were the writer ever so little distinguished

would ... possess the invaluable quality of individuality which so

often causes us to linger before an old portrait of which we know no

more than that it is a Burgomaster by Rembrandt or a Venetian Senator

by Titian. The least skilful pen when flowing from the fulness of the

heart ... shall often paint with as faithful and life-like a touch as

either of those great masters.”

Mary Russell Mitford’s friends were numerous, both here in England and

on the other side of the Atlantic, and her sympathies were as wide as

the great ocean that lies between us. She writes in later life: “I love

poetry and people as well at sixty as I did at sixteen, and can never

be sufficiently grateful to God for having permitted me to retain the

two joy-giving faculties of admiration and sympathy by which we are

enabled to escape from the consciousness of our own infirmities into

the great works of all ages and the joys and sorrows of our immediate

friends.”

This sunny nature which was unembittered by severe trials speaks to us

in all the stories of _Our Village_, and it spread such a halo about

the scenes therein described that little Three Mile Cross—the prototype

of _Our Village_—became in time a resort of pilgrims from far and near,

among whom were some of the finest spirits of the age. All longed to

gaze upon the cottage in which Mary Russell Mitford had dwelt, and

to sit in the small parlour whose window looks down upon the village

street, where she had written the stories so dear to her readers.

Happily the cottage itself, with the little general shop on one side

and the village inn on the other, are still so much what they were in

her day that the long space of time that has rolled by since her room

was left vacant seems to vanish, and as we enter the front door we

almost expect to see the small figure of the “lady of _Our Village_”

coming down the narrow stairs to welcome us.

* * * * *

Before closing this Preface I would express my gratitude to Lord

Treowen, Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Palmer, Mr. F. Cowslade, Mr. W. May, the

Misses Lovejoy, and Mr. J. J. Cooper, for permission to reproduce

valuable portraits and relics, and for other kind help.

CONSTANCE HILL.

GROVE COTTAGE, FROGNAL, HAMPSTEAD, _August, 1919_.

[Illustration]

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. AN AUTHOR’S BIRTHPLACE 1

II. HAPPY MEMORIES 9

III. VILLAGE NEIGHBOURS 15

IV. EARLY LIFE IN READING 22

V. LYME REGIS 29

VI. A STORMY COAST 40

VII. A FLIGHT 52

VIII. RETURN TO READING 56

IX. THE SCHOOL IN HANS PLACE 66

X. A GLIMPSE OF OLD FRENCH SOCIETY 74

XI. THE GAY REALITIES OF MOLIÈRE 82

XII. RECOLLECTIONS OF OLD READING 92

XIII. A NORTHERN TOUR 101

XIV. A ROYAL VISIT 110

XV. PLAYS AND POETRY 119

XVI. A CHOSEN CORRESPONDENT 126

XVII. THE MARCH OF MIND 134

XVIII. VERSATILITY AND PLAYFULNESS 144

XIX. FROM MANSION TO COTTAGE 156

XX. THREE MILE CROSS 161

XXI. THE NEW HOME 179

XXII. A LOQUACIOUS VISITOR 190

XXIII. THE PUBLICATION OF “OUR VILLAGE” 203

XXIV. A COUNTRY-SIDE ROMANCE 212

XXV. A NEW PLAYWRIGHT 221

XXVI. “RIENZI” 230

XXVII. FOREIGN NEIGHBOURS 241

XXVIII. AGREEABLE JAUNTS 250

XXIX. UFTON COURT 260

XXX. A FURTHER GLANCE AT OUR VILLAGE 271

XXXI. ECCENTRIC NEIGHBOURS 283

XXXII. THE MAY-HOUSES 292

XXXIII. WALKS IN THE COUNTRY 302

XXXIV. A CENTRE OF INTEREST 315

XXXV. A LONDON WELCOME 328

XXXVI. A BRAVE HEART 339

XXXVII. FAREWELL TO THREE MILE CROSS 350

XXXVIII. SWALLOWFIELD 360

XXXIX. PEACEFUL CLOSING YEARS 372

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Portrait of Mary Russell Mitford. (_By A. Burt, taken in 1836_)

_Frontispiece_

Grove Cottage, Frognal, Hampstead _Preface_ x

The Mitfords’ house in Broad Street, Alresford 3

Antique girandole 8

Mary Russell Mitford’s birthplace 11

Mary Russell Mitford at the age of four years. (_After a miniature_)

_To face_ 16

The Cross-house 21

Southampton Street, Reading 24

The “Walk” by the sea, Lyme Regis 31

The Great House, Lyme Regis 35

Old ironwork 39

The panelled chamber 41

The drawing-room 47

Blackfriars Bridge in 1796 52

Dr. Mitford’s house in the London Road, Reading _To face_ 58

Antique ironwork 65

Hans Place in 1798 69

Ceiling decoration (1714) 81

A purse-bag 91

A skit on the “Pink of the mode” _To face_ 92

A quaint tea-set 100

Gosfield Hall _To face_ 110

Le Comte d’Artois (afterwards Charles X) _To face_ 112

The Dining-room in the Deanery, Bocking 115

Dr. Valpy’s school _To face_ 122

Country cottages 143

Bertram House 147

Inlaid tea-caddy 160

The Mitfords’ cottage in Three Mile Cross 163

The village shop 169

The Swan Inn 173

A country wheelbarrow 178

Miss Mitford’s writing-parlour 181

The wheelwright’s workshop 185

Fragment of the Silchester Roman wall 189

Where the curate lodged 193

The curate’s parlour 197

An old Berkshire farm 213

Frith Street, Soho Square 225

Old houses in Great Queen Street 233

A French bonbonnière 249

The West Gate, Southampton 251

Pulteney Bridge, Bath 254

Arabella Fermor as a child. (_After a picture in the possession of

Frederick Cowslade, Esq._) 259

The Porch, Ufton Court 261

Arabella Fermor, the “Belinda” of the “Rape of the Lock,” afterwards

Mrs. Perkins. (_From a painting by W. Sykes in the possession of Lord

Treowen_) _To face_ 262

Francis Perkins. (_By W. Sykes, from a painting also in the possession

of Lord Treowen_) _To face_ 262

Belinda’s parlour 265

The garden steps 267

A dandy of the period 291

An old shoeing forge 297

A bridge on the Loddon 303

In Aberleigh (Arborfield) Park 307

Dr. Mitford. (_From a painting by John Lucas in the possession of W.

May, Esq._) _To face_ 330

Ironwork in the balcony of Sergeant Talfourd’s house 338

Verses by M. R. Mitford written in a friend’s album (_facsimile_) _To

face_ 344

Old house near Swallowfield 355

A teapot which belonged to M. R. Mitford 359

M. R. Mitford’s last home at Swallowfield 363

Swallowfield Church 380

MARY RUSSELL MITFORD

CHAPTER I

AN AUTHOR’S BIRTHPLACE

In a sunny corner of Hampshire there lies the tiny historic town

of Alresford on the gentle slopes of a hill, at whose feet flows

the little river Arle which gives its name to the place. “A town so

small that but for an ancient market very slenderly attended, nobody

would have dreamt of calling it anything but a village.” And yet,

oddly enough, in this same place great dignity was united with rustic

simplicity, for the living of “Old” Alresford was one of the richest

in England, and was held by the Bishop of Exeter in conjunction with

his very poor see. The Post Office was formerly installed in a very

small room with nothing but a letter-box in the window; still, it had

its importance, being at the head of many others scattered over the

country-side.

Alresford was the birthplace of one who loved nature as few have loved

her, and whose writings “breathe the air of the hay-fields and the

scent of the hawthorn boughs,” and seem to waft to us “the sweet

breezes that blow over ripened, cornfields or daisied meadows.”

The name of Mary Russell Mitford—the author of _Our Village_—is dear to

thousands of readers, both English and American, for she has enabled

them to see nature with her eyes and to enter into the very spirit of

rural life.

Alresford is built on the plan of the letter T, at the top of which

stands the old church; Broad Street being the perpendicular stem,

traversed by East Street and West Street, which form the cross-bar.

Supposing that we are coming up from the valley below where we have

left behind us the winding river with its old mill, we enter the lower

end of Broad Street—that picturesque street with its raised footpaths

on either side bordered by trees, and its low, irregular houses,

dominated at the upper end by the grey tower of the old church. That

dignified looking house on the right-hand side, with its hooded doorway

and its tall windows, belonged to Dr. Mitford.

Here it was that the doctor started a practice soon after his marriage

with Miss Russell, the only child and heiress of the late Dr. Russell,

Rector of Ashe, and here, on the 16th December, 1787, Mary, also an

only child, was born.

[Illustration: THE HOUSE IN BROAD STREET]

“A pleasant house in truth it was,” she writes. “The breakfast-room

... was a lofty and spacious apartment literally lined with books,

which, with its Turkey carpet, its glowing fire, its sofas and its

easy-chairs, seemed, what indeed it was, a very nest of English

comfort. The windows opened on a large old-fashioned garden, full of

old-fashioned flowers—stocks, roses, honeysuckles and pinks; and that

again led into a grassy orchard, abounding with fruit trees....

“What a playground was that orchard! and what playfellows were mine!

My maid Nancy with her trim prettiness, my own dear father, handsomest

and cheerfullest of men, and the great Newfoundland dog Coe, who used

to lie down at my feet as if to invite me to mount him, and then to

prance off with his burthen, as if he enjoyed the fun as much as we

did!... How well I remember my father’s carrying me round the orchard

on his shoulder, holding fast my little three-year-old feet, whilst the

little hands hung on to his pig-tail, which I called my bridle; hung

so fast, and tugged so heartily, that sometimes the ribbon would come

off between my fingers and send his hair floating and the powder flying

down his back!... Happy, happy days! It is good to have the memory of

such a childhood!”

Miss Mitford writes on another occasion:—

“In common with many only children, I learnt to read at a very early

age. My father would perch me on the breakfast-table to exhibit my

only accomplishment to some admiring guest, who admired all the more

[from my being] a small puny child, gifted with an affluence of curls

[who] might have passed for the twin sister of my own great doll.

On the table was I perched to read some Foxite newspaper, _Courier_

or _Morning Chronicle_, the Whiggish oracles of the day.... I read

leading articles to please the company; and my dear mother recited ‘The

Children in the Wood’ to please me. This was my reward, and I looked

for my favourite ballad after every performance, just as the piping

bull-finch that hung in the window looked for his lump of sugar after

going through ‘God save the King.’ The two cases were exactly parallel.”

We have sat in the very room where this scene took place. Little is

changed there, and we stepped from its windows “opening down to the

ground” into the garden. A narrow footpath, bordered by greensward,

led to a small flagged courtyard, flanked on one side by a quaint

old brew-house, with its red-tiled roof and peaked windowed centre.

Then, passing through a wicket-gate, we found ourselves in the “large

old-fashioned garden,” itself gay with flowers as of yore.

An adjoining house has arisen, since the Mitfords lived in their house

more than a hundred years ago, but this building has in its turn grown

old, so that it does not mar the character of the place.

Beyond the garden lay the orchard, now used as a tennis lawn, but still

happily surrounded by trees, through whose boughs peeps of the sweet

surrounding country can be seen. Indeed Alresford is entirely encircled

by the country, and its three only streets—Broad Street, East Street,

and West Street—lead straight into it. Miss Mitford, describing the

views on either side of their grounds, says that to the south rose the

“picturesque church with its yews and lindens, and beyond it a down as

smooth as velvet, dotted with rich islands of coppice, hazel, woodbine

and hawthorn”; while down in the valley “gleamed a bright, clear

lakelet radiant with swans and water-lilies, which the simple townsfolk

were content to call the ‘Great Pond.’”

Dr. Mitford’s house must indeed have been a “pleasant home” for a

child, with its garden and orchard for a playground behind the house,

and, in front, its cheerful view of the village street with its

ever-changing scenes of passing horsemen and carts, or of herds of

sheep and cattle driven to market.

Here Mary first learnt, though unconsciously, to enjoy the beauties of

nature and to enter into the simple pleasures of village life.

[Illustration]

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