SAMUEL PARKER
In the year 1838 there was published in Ithaca, N. Y., by the author,
the _Journal of an Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains, Under the
Direction of the A. B. C. F. M., Performed in the Years 1835, ’36, and
’37; Containing a Description of the Geography, Geology, Climate, and
Productions; and the Number, Manners, and Customs of the Natives. With
a Map of Oregon Territory._ By Rev. Samuel Parker, A.M.
As may be imagined from this title, Mr. Parker was a missionary whose
business in setting out into the wild West was to spread the Gospel.
The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent him out
to ascertain by personal observation the condition and character of
the Indian nations and tribes, and the opportunities for introducing
the Gospel and civilization among them. He writes in a more or
less ponderous style, and his mind is dominated, as is natural, by
the missionary idea, to such an extent that his book at times even
has something of the flavor of some of the volumes of the _Jesuit
Relations_.
At St. Louis Mr. Parker met Dr. Marcus Whitman, appointed by the
American Board to be his associate in his western explorations, and
here the two missionaries waited for a time until the caravan which
they were to accompany should be ready to start.
Dr. Whitman’s name is so closely connected with the securing of Oregon
Territory by the United States that it is hardly necessary to speak of
him at any length.
Before leaving Liberty, Mo., the steamer on which they were travelling
broke down, and it became necessary to proceed overland, and they
reached Fort Leavenworth early in May, 1835. During the journey
Parker met with a number of men who, at various times, had had close
intercourse with the Wichitas or Pawnee Picts, Comanches, Navajoes,
and Apaches; and from all these individuals he heard accounts which
made him think well of these wild and distant tribes, and of their
adaptability to Christianity and to civilized pursuits. He was
observant, too, of the local Indians--Iowas, Sacs, and Foxes--and was
favorably impressed by all.
After reaching Council Bluffs there was a long wait before the caravan
set out on its western journey. Much is said of the Indians inhabiting
this region, Yanktons, Omahas, Poncas, and the more distant Mandans;
and some hints are given as to the mode of life of these tribes. The
party travelled up the Platte, meeting the usual difficulties and
discouragements attendant on the stormy weather in summer. Much of
the time they were drenched to the skin. Occasionally a storm of hail
would come, which scattered their animals, and much time was devoted
to gathering them again. Travelling westward, the two Campbells and
Sublette, with a few men, were met returning from the Black Hills.
The apparently fertile bottom lands of the Platte, over which they
were travelling, greatly impressed the missionary, who prophesied
concerning it as follows: “No country could be more inviting to the
farmer, with only one exception--the want of woodland. The latitude is
sufficiently high to be healthy; and as the climate grows warmer as
we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped mountains, there is
a degree of mildness not experienced east of the Alleghany Mountains.
The time will come, and probably is not far distant, when this country
will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the
habitation of man, and for a theatre on which God will manifest his
perfections in his moral government among his moral creatures, and
therefore the earth, according to divine prediction, shall be given to
the people of God. Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet
God will accomplish His designs and fulfill every promise contained
in His Word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will not
continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand Indians, with
only a very few acres under cultivation; nor will millions of tons
of grass grow up to rot upon the ground, or to be burned up with the
fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disincumber it of its
spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these
meadows are gone; and the deer which once cropped the grass have
disappeared; and the antelopes have fled away; and shall solitude reign
here till the end of time? No: here shall be heard the din of business,
and the church-going bell shall sound far and wide.”
Before long the travellers reached the Loup Fork, which they crossed;
and here they met a number of Pawnee Indians, who treated them with
great courtesy and kindness, and invited them to feast with them.
Reference is made here to Messrs. Dunbar and Allis, and to the
missionary work that they were doing among the Pawnees.
From the Pawnee country the party kept on up the Platte, through the
open country. Here, it seems, those Indians most feared were the
Arickaras, not the Sioux and Cheyennes, as was the case thirty years
later. At this time that tribe was said to have gone far up the south
fork of the Platte to avoid the United States dragoons, under command
of Colonel Dodge, who was pursuing them. As Parker’s party went up the
north fork of the Platte, he speaks of “their using particular caution
to be prepared for an attack of the Arickaras, should any of their war
parties be about us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was
in good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We all
slept with our clothes on, so that, if called with the sentinels’ fire,
we might in less than a moment be ready for action.”
Here is a word about the animals that they saw next day as they
journeyed on:
“Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in great numbers, and in nearer view
than previously. They are less shy than those we first found. They are
more majestic than the elk, but less beautiful. The antelopes, some of
which we have seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous.
They are rightly named, for their speed exceeds any animal I have ever
seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase; so soon are
they left far in the rear, that they do not follow them more than ten
or twenty rods before they return, looking ashamed of their defeat. Our
hunters occasionally take some of them by coming upon them by stealth.
When they are surprised, they start forward a very small space, and
then turn, and with high-lifted heads stare for a few seconds at the
object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whistling snuff,
bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as upon feet. They resemble
the goat, but are far more beautiful.”
Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, and Scott’s Bluffs were duly passed.
Some very friendly Ogallallahs were met with just before they reached
the Laramie River. Their camp that night was close to the fort. Here
took place one of the days of revelry and carousing which are so
frequently noted in these old books as occurring periodically. There
were dances by the Indians, and other celebrations. Keeping on up the
Platte, they passed Independence Rock August 7th, and reached the
Sweetwater. The weather was now growing colder, and ice often made
during the night.
[Illustration: TRAPPERS ATTACKED BY INDIANS.
From an old print by A. Tait.]
On reaching Green River they came to the rendezvous of the American
Fur Company. Who was in command Parker does not tell us; but that
various well-known persons were present is certain. For example, “While
we continued in this place, Dr. Whitman was called to perform some
very important surgical operations; he extracted an iron arrow three
inches long from the back of Captain Bridger, which he had received
in a skirmish three years before with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a
difficult operation, in consequence of the arrow being hooked at the
point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had grown
around it. The Dr. pursued the operation with great self-possession
and perseverance, and Captain Bridger manifested equal firmness. The
Indians looked on while the operation was proceeding with countenances
indicating wonder, and when they saw the arrow, expressed their
astonishment in a manner peculiar to themselves. The skill of Dr.
Whitman undoubtedly made upon them a favorable impression. He also took
another arrow from under the shoulder of one of the hunters which had
been there two years and a half.”
Here Parker consulted the Flatheads and Nez Percés, asking them if they
would be willing to receive a minister of the Gospel. They needed no
persuasion, but agreed to allow him to come to them, and so cordial was
their response, that it seemed best that Dr. Whitman should return with
the caravan, enlist some more workers, and return the next year with
another caravan, to establish a mission among these people. Dr. Whitman
at first was unwilling to leave his fellow missionary to go on alone,
but finally did so.
During another day of drunkenness a fight took place at the rendezvous.
“A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great bully of
the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and challenged
any Frenchman, American, Spaniard or Dutchman to fight him in single
combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he wished to die, he would
accept the challenge. Shunar defied him. Carson mounted his horse, and
with a loaded pistol rushed into close contact, and both almost at the
same instant fired. Carson’s ball entered Shunar’s hand, came out at
the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. Shunar’s ball
passed over the head of Carson, and while he went for another pistol,
Shunar begged that his life might be spared.”
Parker had arranged to travel on with the Flatheads. The chief of these
gave him a young man as an assistant, and Parker secured a voyageur
who understood English and Nez Percé. Parker and his Indian friends
started, August 21, in company with Bridger, whose way led in the
same direction as theirs. Bridger had about fifty men. They followed
up the stream to Jackson’s Hole, and encamped on a small stream which
the author says is one of the upper branches of the Columbia River. He
says something about the difficulties of travel and the narrow passages
which it was necessary to traverse, and which he calls “kenyans.” This
term is found more or less frequently in these old books by persons
who seem to have written it down only from hearing the word spoken.
Near Jackson’s Hole he climbed one of the high mountains, and was
greatly impressed by what he saw. One day while travelling through the
mountains “a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our Indians, came
rushing down the side of the mountain through the midst of our company.
One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and threw the
child far down the descent, but it providentially was not materially
injured. Another ran over a packed horse and wounded it deeply in the
shoulders.”
Mr. Parker evidently enjoyed the companionship of the Indians, whom
he seems to have regarded with most pleasant feelings. He says:
“The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets with any
disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their horses often turn
their packs and run, plunge and kick, until they free themselves from
their burdens. Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which
a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hovered at
once around with their horses so as to inclose the one to which the
child was attached, and it was extricated without hurt. When I saw the
condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could be saved
alive.”
A little later, still speaking of the children, he says of the Indians:
“They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman and child
are mounted on horseback, and all they have is packed upon horses.
Small children, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and
generally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from
falling, and especially when they go asleep, which they often do when
they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horse’s shoulders;
and when they awake, they lay hold of their whip, which is fastened
to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their
horses; and it is astonishing to see how these little creatures will
guide and run them. Children which are still younger are put into an
encasement made with a board at the back, and a wicker-work around the
other parts, covered with cloth inside and without, or more generally
with dressed skins; and they are carried upon the mother’s back, or
suspended from a high nob upon the fore part of their saddles.”
Still moving westward, early in September they met a band of Nez
Percés. They came to Parker’s camp about the middle of the day, “the
principal chief marching in front with his aid, carrying an American
flag by his side. They all sung a march, while a few beat a sort of
drum. As they drew near, they displayed columns, and made quite an
imposing appearance. The women and children followed in the rear.”
The next day’s diary is devoted almost entirely to an account of
missionary work, in which the author gives an extract of the various
sermons that he preached to the Indians, who received his teachings
with great patience and interest. By this time the party was out
of provisions, and all were getting hungry, but no game was seen.
However, on September 9, buffalo were viewed, and preparations were
made to chase them. All the best hunters chose their swiftest horses,
and seeing that their arms were in good order, made ready for the
run; while Parker did what he could by lifting up “my heart in prayer
to God, that He would give them judgment, skill and success. They
advanced toward the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they
should frighten them before they should make a near approach; and also
to reserve the power of their horses for the chase when it should be
necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the buffalo took the
alarm and fled, the rush was made, each Indian selecting for himself a
cow with which he happened to come into the nearest contact. All were
in swift motion scouring the valley; a cloud of dust began to arise,
firing of guns and shooting of arrows followed in close succession;
soon here and there buffalo were seen prostrated, and the women, who
followed close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable
acquisition, and the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing
herd. Those in the chase when as near as two rods shoot and wheel,
expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses appeared
to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded animal
flies again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alternate wheeling
and chasing until the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained
between fifty and sixty, which was a signal mercy.”
Not long after this, the Nez Percés and Flatheads left them, wishing
to remain in the buffalo range to secure their winter’s meat. Before
going away, however, they presented Parker with twenty tongues and a
large quantity of dried meat. About a hundred and fifty of the Indians
kept on down Salmon River with the missionaries; and not long afterward
they had a tremendous Indian scare, supposing that they were about to
be attacked by the Blackfeet. A little investigation, however, showed
that what had been seen were buffalo, and not Blackfeet, and food again
became plenty in the camp.
Parker appears to have been a man of considerable attainments. He
remarks upon the geology of the region he passes through; enumerates
the birds and mammals which he sees, and has much to say about the
habits and characteristics of the Indians; and interspersed through
all are frequent references to the Deity, His wishes and purposes as
interpreted by the missionary, together with earnest aspirations for
the spread of the Gospel among the red people.
Walla Walla was reached early in October, and there, at the post of the
Hudson’s Bay Company, Parker was received by Mr. Pambrun with great
hospitality. For this the guest was very grateful, and he says many
good words concerning the kindly people and the company which they
represented; words which are not only good but true.
After a day or two of rest at Walla Walla, the missionary started down
the river in a canoe with three Walla Walla Indians, and before long
stopped at a camp of Cayuse Indians, with whom, however, he was unable
to communicate. He noticed that all along the river as he passed,
the Indians, though of different tribes, seemed to be on good terms
with one another, a condition which was inevitable from the fact that
all these Indians drew their support from the river, to which they
resorted for salmon, and coming there for provisions, could not have
afforded to fight, even had they wished to.
At the Dalles, Parker met Captain Wyeth, from Boston, with whom, it
will be remembered, Townsend and Nuttall had journeyed westward the
year before. A little above the Cascades he met the first Chenooks,
which he denominates “the only real Flatheads and Nez Percés, or
pierced noses, I have found. They flatten their heads and pierce their
noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a deformity as is
generally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the apex or crown
of the head there is a depression, but not generally in adult persons
very noticeable. The piercing of the nose is more of a deformity,
and is done by inserting two small tapering white shells, about two
inches long, somewhat in the shape of a thorn, through the lower part
of the cartilaginous division of the nose.” While following the trail
along the river, he came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which
were several houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and
far better than any he had hitherto seen in any Indian country. They
were about sixty feet long and thirty-five wide, the frame work very
well constructed, and covered with split planks and cedar bark. These
houses thus greatly resemble those seen in recent times on the coast
of portions of British Columbia. The next day Mr. Parker reached Fort
Vancouver, the Hudson’s Bay post, where Dr. J. McLaughlin, a chief
factor of the company, received him very kindly. From here Parker
went on down the river, and reached the brig “May Dacre,” of Boston,
belonging to the Wyeth Company. Here he met Dr. Townsend, and before
long they set sail down the river, and reached Astoria, the far-famed
New York of the West.
The Indians of the country beyond the Continental Divide through which
Parker passed, he divides into those of the plains, which live in the
upper country from the falls of the Columbia to the Rocky Mountains,
and those of the lower country, between the shores of the Pacific and
the falls of the Columbia River. He observes that the first of these
divisions are remarkable for their cleanliness; that they are well
supplied with horses, which are very cheap, a good horse selling for
not more than enough to purchase a blanket or a few small articles
of merchandise. As to their habits, he declares that the Indians of
the plains are not lazy, as they are commonly supposed to be, for he
rarely saw any of those Indians without their being engaged in some
pursuit. To him the Indians appeared as they since have to others--not
especially different from other people. They have the same natural
propensities, and the same social affections. “They are cheerful and
often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate; and anxious to receive
instruction in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or
hereafter.” They have but few manufactures, and those are the most
plain and simple.
He calls attention to the fact that these Indians have no wars among
themselves, and appear averse to all wars, not entering into battle
except in self-defence. Their only enemies are the Blackfoot Indians,
whose country is along the east border of the Rocky Mountains, and
who are constantly roaming about in parties on both sides of the
mountains in quest of plunder. When the Indians on the West side meet
with these war parties they endeavor to avoid an encounter, but if
compelled to fight, “show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and
rush upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity.” When an enemy
is discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women take
charge of them, while every man seizes his weapons, mounts his horse,
and waits, firm and undismayed, to see if hostilities must ensue. Very
frequently when the Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Percés and
Flatheads, they decline battle, even though they themselves may be far
superior in numbers, for they know that the white man can furnish a
large supply of ammunition on such occasions. The Nez Percé or Flathead
chief will accept the pipe, explaining as he does so that he knows the
Blackfeet mean war, although they pretend peace.
The Indians were great gamblers, especially at running horses and in
foot-races. Drunkenness was a vice as yet strange to these Indians, but
Parker predicted that it would come to them so soon as it was possible
to transport liquor to them. He describes the method of doctoring by a
medicine man, and the practice of the sudatory or sweat bath. All this
is of the plains Indians.
Those of the lower country are of less attractive type than the others.
As their subsistence depends almost entirely on fish, they are less
well clad, for they have not the same opportunity to obtain skins as
the people of the buffalo country. Liquor had been brought into the
lower country, and the Indians were slaves to it.
These Indians believe in the immortality of the soul, and that in
the future state we shall have the same wants as in this life. Thus,
in 1829, the wife of an influential chief of the Chenooks, near Cape
Disappointment, killed two female slaves, which should attend her child
to the world of spirits, and especially should row her canoe to the
Happy Hunting Ground in the South.
As the wealth of the upper Indians is estimated in their horses, so
those of the lower country count their property by the number of their
wives, slaves, and canoes. Special attention is called to the excellent
canoes which they make, and also to the baskets woven so closely as to
hold water, and to be used for pails. Of course, they were also used as
pots in which to cook fish and mush.
After having spent the winter on the Columbia, Parker set out in May
to revisit the Nez Percés. He reached them in a short time, and, as it
happened, came to a village just as a little child was being buried.
The Indians had prepared a cross to be set up at the grave, very likely
having been taught to do so by some Iroquois Indians, of whom there
were not a few trapping in the country; and here appears the bigotry of
the missionary of that, and indeed of later days as well, for Parker
says: “But as I viewed a cross of wood made by men’s hands, of no
avail to benefit either the dead or the living, and far more likely
to operate as a salve to a guilty conscience, or a stepping stone to
idolatry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to the
crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared,
and broke it to pieces. I then told them we place a stone at the head
and foot of the grave only to mark the place; and without a murmur they
cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our custom.”
Parker appears to have regarded the Nez Percé Indians as especially
adapted to conversion, and laments that he is unable to speak their
language, and thus to communicate with them directly. Parker was an
active and conscientious person, and evidently wished to see all he
could of the country to which he had been sent. He set out from the
Nez Percés for the Colville country, meeting Spokanes, Cayuses, Cœur
d’Alenes, and a number of other small tribes. Returning, he was unable
to get transportation down the Columbia River, and was obliged to take
horses for Fort Okanagan. The journey was long and very dry, and the
party suffered more of less from thirst. At Fort Okanagan he took a
boat to run down the river four hundred miles to Walla Walla, which he
reached in safety. Toward the end of June he took ship for the Sandwich
Islands, and in December, 1836, sailed on board the “Phœnix” for his
home in the East. After a stormy passage he reached New London, May 18,
and five days later, after two years and two months of absence, and
journeyings which covered twenty-eight thousand miles, arrived at his
home at Ithaca, N. Y.