CHAPTER I

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TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS

* * * * * *

IN THE SAME SERIES

PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS

=The Boy’s Catlin.= My Life Among the Indians, by GEORGE

CATLIN. Edited by MARY GAY HUMPHREYS. Illustrated.

12mo. _net_ $1.50

=The Boy’s Hakluyt.= English Voyages of Adventure and

Discovery, retold from Hakluyt by EDWIN M. BACON.

Illustrated. 12mo. _net_ $1.50

=The Boy’s Drake.= By EDWIN M. BACON. Illustrated. 12mo.

_net_ $1.50

=Trails of the Pathfinders.= By GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL.

Illustrated. 12mo. _net_ $1.50

* * * * * *

TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS

[Illustration:

CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK WERE MUCH PUZZLED AT THIS POINT TO KNOW

WHICH OF THE RIVERS BEFORE THEM WAS THE MAIN MISSOURI.]

TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS

by

GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL

Author of “Blackfoot Lodge Tales,” “Pawnee Hero

Stories and Folk Tales,” “The Story of the

Indian,” “Indians of Today,” etc.

Illustrated

New York

Charles Scribner’S Sons

1911

Copyright, 1911, by

Charles Scribner’S Sons

Published April, 1911

[Illustration]

PREFACE

The chapters in this book appeared first as part of a series of

articles under the same title contributed to _Forest and Stream_

several years ago. At the time they aroused much interest and there was

a demand that they should be put into book form.

The books from which these accounts have been drawn are good reading

for all Americans. They are at once history and adventure. They deal

with a time when half the continent was unknown; when the West--distant

and full of romance--held for the young, the brave and the hardy,

possibilities that were limitless.

The legend of the kingdom of El Dorado did not pass with the passing of

the Spaniards. All through the eighteenth and a part of the nineteenth

century it was recalled in another sense by the fur trader, and with

the discovery of gold in California it was heard again by a great

multitude--and almost with its old meaning.

Besides these old books on the West, there are many others which every

American should read. They treat of that same romantic period, and

describe the adventures of explorers, Indian fighters, fur hunters and

fur traders. They are a part of the history of the continent.

NEW YORK, _April_, 1911.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. INTRODUCTION 3

II. ALEXANDER HENRY--I 13

III. ALEXANDER HENRY--II 36

IV. JONATHAN CARVER 57

V. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--I 84

VI. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--II 102

VII. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--III 121

VIII. LEWIS AND CLARK--I 138

IX. LEWIS AND CLARK--II 154

X. LEWIS AND CLARK--III 169

XI. LEWIS AND CLARK--IV 179

XII. LEWIS AND CLARK--V 190

XIII. ZEBULON M. PIKE--I 207

XIV. ZEBULON M. PIKE--II 226

XV. ZEBULON M. PIKE--III 238

XVI. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--I 253

XVII. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--II 271

XVIII. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--III 287

XIX. ROSS COX--I 301

XX. ROSS COX--II 319

XXI. THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES--I 330

XXII. THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES--II 341

XXIII. SAMUEL PARKER 359

XXIV. THOMAS J. FARNHAM--I 372

XXV. THOMAS J. FARNHAM--II 382

XXVI. FREMONT--I 393

XXVII. FREMONT--II 405

XXVIII. FREMONT--III 415

XXIX. FREMONT--IV 428

XXX. FREMONT--V 435

ILLUSTRATIONS

CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK WERE MUCH PUZZLED AT THIS POINT TO

KNOW WHICH OF THE RIVERS BEFORE THEM WAS THE MAIN MISSOURI

_Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

“I NOW RESIGNED MYSELF TO THE FATE WITH WHICH I WAS MENACED” 28

A MAN OF THE NAUDOWESSIE 62

From _Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America_,

by Jonathan Carver

A MAN OF THE OTTIGAUMIES 62

From _Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America_,

by Jonathan Carver

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE 84

From Mackenzie’s _Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent

of North America_, etc.

MACKENZIE AND THE MEN JUMPED OVERBOARD 118

LIEUTENANT ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, MONUMENT AT COLORADO SPRINGS,

COLORADO 208

BUFFALO ON THE SOUTHERN PLAINS 236

From Kendall’s _Narrative of the Texas Santa Fé Expedition_

TWO MEN MOUNTED ON HER BACK, BUT SHE WAS AS ACTIVE WITH THIS LOAD

AS BEFORE 270

FUR TRADERS OF THE NORTH 280

ASTORIA IN 1813 302

From Franchere’s _Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest

Coast of America_

CARAVAN ON THE MARCH 334

From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_

WAGONS PARKED FOR THE NIGHT 340

From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_

TRAPPERS ATTACKED BY INDIANS 360

From an old print by A. Tait

TRAIN STAMPEDED BY WILD HORSES 372

From Bartlett’s _Texas, New Mexico, California_, etc.

MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT 394

AN OTO COUNCIL 414

From James’s _An Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky

Mountains by Major Stephen H. Long_.

MAP

PAGE

ROUTES OF SOME OF THE PATHFINDERS 2

TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS

[Illustration: ROUTES OF SOME OF THE PATHFINDERS]

TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

Three centuries ago half a dozen tiny hamlets, peopled by white men,

were scattered along the western shores of the North Atlantic Ocean.

These little settlements owed allegiance to different nations of

Europe, each of which had thrust out a hand to grasp some share of the

wealth which might lie in the unknown wilderness which stretched away

from the seashore toward the west.

The “Indies” had been discovered more than a hundred years before, but

though ships had sailed north and ships had sailed south, little was

known of the land, through which men were seeking a passage to share

the trade which the Portuguese, long before, had opened up with the

mysterious East. That passage had not been found. To the north lay ice

and snow, to the south--vaguely known--lay the South Sea. What that

South Sea was, what its limits, what its relations to lands already

visited, were still secrets.

St. Augustine had been founded in 1565; and forty years later the

French made their first settlement at Port Royal in what is now Nova

Scotia. In 1607 Jamestown was settled; and a year later the French

established Quebec. The Pilgrims landed in Massachusetts in 1620 and

the first settlement of the Dutch on the island of Manhattan was in

1623. All these settlers establishing themselves in a new country

found enough to do in the struggle to procure subsistence, to protect

themselves from the elements and from the attacks of enemies, without

attempting to discover what lay inland--beyond the sound of the salt

waves which beat upon the coast. Not until later was any effort made to

learn what lay in the vast interior.

Time went on. The settlements increased. Gradually men pushed farther

and farther inland. There were wars; and one nation after another was

crowded from its possessions, until, at length, the British owned all

the settlements in eastern temperate America. The white men still clung

chiefly to the sea-coast, and it was in western Pennsylvania that the

French and Indians defeated Braddock in 1755, George Washington being

an officer under his command.

A little later came the war of the Revolution, and a new people sprang

into being in a land a little more than two hundred and fifty years

known. This people, teeming with energy, kept reaching out in all

directions for new things. As they increased in numbers they spread

chiefly in the direction of least resistance. The native tribes were

easier to displace than the French, who held forts to the north, and

the Spanish, who possessed territory to the south; and the temperate

climate toward the west attracted them more than the cold of the

north or the heat of the south. So the Americans pushed on always

to the setting sun, and their early movements gave truth to Bishop

Berkeley’s famous line, written long before and in an altogether

different connection, “Westward the course of empire takes its way.”

The Mississippi was reached, and little villages, occupied by Frenchmen

and their half-breed children, began to change, to be transformed into

American towns. Yet in 1790, ninety-five per cent. of the population of

the United States was on the Atlantic seaboard.

Now came the Louisiana Purchase, and immediately after that the

expedition across the continent by Meriwether Lewis and William

Clark. The trip took two years’ time, and the reports brought back

by the intrepid explorers, telling the wonderful story of what lay

in the unknown beyond, greatly stimulated the imagination of the

western people. Long before this it had become known that the western

ocean--the South Sea of an earlier day--extended north along the

continent, and that there was no connection here with India. It was

known, too, that the Spaniards occupied the west coast. In 1790,

Umfreville said: “That there are European traders settled among the

Indians from the other side of the continent is without doubt. I,

myself, have seen horses with Roman capitals burnt in their flanks with

a hot iron. I likewise once saw a hanger with Spanish words engraved on

the blade. Many other proofs have been obtained to convince us that

the Spaniards on the opposite side of the continent make their inland

peregrinations as well as ourselves.”

Western travel and exploration, within the United States, began

soon after the return of Lewis and Clark. The trapper, seeking for

peltry--the rich furs so much in demand in Europe--was the first to

penetrate the unknown wilds; but close upon his heels followed the

Indian trader, who used trapper and Indian alike to fill his purse.

With the trapper and the trader, naturalists began to push out into

the west, studying the fauna and flora of the new lands. About the

same time the possibilities of trade with the Mexicans induced the

beginnings of the Santa Fé trade, that Commerce of the Prairies which

has been so fully written of by the intrepid spirits who took part

in it. Meantime the government continued to send out expeditions,

poorly provided in many ways, scarcely armed, barely furnished with

provisions, without means of making their way through the unknown and

dangerous regions to which they were sent, but led by heroes.

For forty years this work of investigation went on; for forty years

there took place a peopling of the new West by men who were in very

deed the bravest and most adventurous of our brave and hardy border

population. They scattered over the plains and through the mountains;

they trapped the beaver and fought the Indian and guided the explorers;

and took to themselves wives from among their very enemies, and raised

up broods of hardy offspring, some of whom we may yet meet as we

journey through the cattle and the farming country which used to be the

far West.

If ever any set of men played their part in subduing the wilderness,

and in ploughing the ground to receive its seed of settlement, and to

rear the crop of civilization which is now being harvested, these men

did that work, and did it well. It is inconceivable that they should

have had the foresight to know what they were doing; to imagine what

it was that should come after them. They did not think of that. Like

the bold, brave, hardy men of all times and of all countries, they did

the work that lay before them, bravely, faithfully, and well, without

any special thought of a distant future; surely without any regrets for

the past. As the years rolled by, sickness, battle, the wild beast,

starvation, murder, death in some form, whether sudden or lingering,

struck them down singly or by scores; and that a man had been “rubbed

out,” was cause for a sigh of regret or a word of sorrow from his

companions, who forthwith saddled up and started on some journey of

peril, where their fate might be what his had been.

At the end of forty years the first series of these exploratory

journeys came to an end. Gold was discovered in California. The Mexican

War took place. This was not unexpected, for in the Southwest, about

the pueblos of Taos and Santa Fé, skirmishings and quarrels between the

Spanish-Indian inhabitants and the rough mountaineers and teamsters

from the States had already given warning of a conflict soon to come.

Now, well travelled wagon roads crossed the continent, and a stream of

westward immigration that seemed to have no end. Before long there came

Indian wars. The immigrants imposed upon the savages, ill-treated their

wives, and were truculent and over-bearing to their men. The Indians

stole from the immigrants, and drove off their horses. Then began a

season of conflict which, by one tribe and another, yet with many

intermissions, lasted almost down to our own day. For the most part,

these Indian wars are well within the memory of living men. They have

been told of by those who saw them and were a part of them.

Of the travellers who marched westward over the arid plains, during the

period which intervened between the return of Lewis and Clark and the

establishment of the old California trail, and of the earlier northmen

who trafficked for the beaver in Canada, a few left records of their

journeys; and of these records many are most interesting reading,

for they are simple, faithful narratives of the every-day life of

travellers through unknown regions. To Americans they are of especial

interest, for they tell of a time when one-half of the continent which

now teems with population had no inhabitants. The acres which now

contribute freely of food that supplies the world; the mountains which

now echo to the rattle of machinery, and the shot of the blasts which

lay bare millions worth of precious metal; the waters which are churned

by propeller blades, transporting all the varied products of the land

to their markets; the forests, which, alas! in too many sections, no

longer rustle to the breeze, but have been swept away to make room for

farms and town sites--all these were then undisturbed and natural, as

they had been for a thousand years. Of the travellers who passed over

the vast stretches of prairie or mountain or woodland, many saw the

possibilities of this vast land, and prophesied as to what might be

wrought here, when, in the dim and distant future, which none could yet

foresee, settlements should have pushed out from the east and occupied

the land. Other travellers declared that these barren wastes would ever

prove a barrier to westward settlement.

The books that were written concerning this new land are mostly long

out of print, or difficult of access; yet each one of them is worth

perusal. Of their authors, some bear names still familiar, even though

their works have been lost sight of. Some of them made discoveries of

great interest in one branch or other of science. At a later day some

attained fame. Parkman’s first essay in literature was his story of

_The California and Oregon Trail_, a fitting introduction to the many

fascinating volumes that he contributed later to the early history of

America; while in Washington Irving, historian and essayist, was found

a narrator who should first tell connectedly of the fur trade of the

Northwest, and the adventures of Bonneville.

Besides the books that were published in those times, there were

also written accounts, usually in the form of diaries, or of notes

kept from day to day of the happenings in the life of this or that

individual, which are full of interest, because they give us pictures

of one or another phase of early travel, or hunting adventures, or of

trading with the Indians. Such private and personal accounts, never

intended for the public eye, are to-day of extreme interest; and it is

fortunate that an American student, the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has

given us volumes which tell the stories of Lewis and Clark, Pike and

Garces, of Jacob Fowler, of Alexander Henry the younger, and of Charles

Larpenteur--contributions to the history of the winning of the greater

West whose value is only now beginning to be appreciated.

The chapters that follow contain much of history which is old, but

which, to the average American, will prove absolutely new. One may

imagine himself very much interested in the old West, familiar with

its history and devoted to its study, but it is not until he has gone

through volume after volume of this ancient literature that he realizes

how greatly his knowledge lacks precision and how much he still has to

learn concerning the country he inhabits.

The work that the early travellers did, and the books they published,

showed to the people of their day the conditions which existed in the

far West, caused its settlement, and led to the slow discovery of its

mineral treasures, and the slower appreciation of its possibilities to

the farmer and stock-raiser. Each of these volumes had its readers, and

of the readers of each we may be sure that a few, or many, attracted by

the graphic descriptions of the new land, determined that they, too,

would push out into it; they, too, would share in the wealth which it

spread out with lavish hand.

It is all so long ago that we who are busy with a thousand modern

interests care little about who contributed to the greatness of the

country which we inhabit and the prosperity which we enjoy. But there

was a day, which men alive may still remember, a day of strong men, of

brave women, hardy pioneers, and true hearts, who ventured forth into

the wilderness, braving many dangers that were real, and many more that

were imaginary and yet to them seemed very real, occupied the land,

broke up the virgin soil, and peopled a wilderness.

How can the men and women of this generation--dwellers in cities, or

in peaceful villages, or on smiling farms--realize what those pioneers

did--how they lived? He must have possessed stern resolution and firm

courage, who, to better the condition of those dearest to him, risked

their comfort--their very lives--on the hazard of a settlement in the

unknown wilderness. The woman who accompanied this man bore an equal

part in the struggle, with devoted helpfulness encouraging him in

his strife with nature or cheering him in defeat. If the school of

self-reliance and hardihood in which their children were reared gave

them little of the lore of books, it built strong characters and made

them worthy successors of courageous parents. We may not comprehend how

long and fierce was the struggle with the elements, with the bristling

forest, with the unbroken soil; how hard and wearing the annoyance

of wild beasts, the anxiety as to climate, the fear of the prowling

savage. Yet the work was done, and to-day, from the Alleghanies to the

Pacific, we behold its results.

Through hard experience these pioneers had come to understand life.

They possessed a due sense of proportion. They saw the things which

were essential; they scorned those which were trivial. If, judged

by certain standards, they were rough and uncouth, if they spoke a

strange tongue, wore odd apparel, and lived narrow lives, they were yet

practising--albeit unconsciously--the virtues--unflinching courage,

sturdy independence and helpfulness to their neighbors--which have made

America what it is.

In the work of travel and exploration in that far West of which we used

to read, the figure which stands out boldest and most heroic of all is

unnamed. Bearded, buckskin-clad, with rough fur cap, or kerchief tied

about his head, wearing powder-horn and ball-pouch, and scalping-knife,

and carrying his trusty Hawkins rifle, the trapper--the _coureur des

bois_--was the man who did the first work in subduing the wild West,

the man who laid the foundations on which its present civilization is

built.

All honor to this nameless hero. We shall meet him often as we follow

the westward trail.

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