CHAPTER V.--continued. THE "SANTURRI" MURDER.

Transcribed by from the 1861 Macmillan and Co. edition by David Price,

email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk

ROME IN 1860.

By

EDWARD DICEY.

Cambridge:

MACMILLAN AND CO.

AND 23, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN,

London.

1861.

[The right of Translation is reserved.]

* * * * *

Cambridge:

PRINTED BY C. J. CLAY, M.A.

AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS

* * * * *

TO

MR. AND MRS ROBERT BROWNING

CHAPTER I. THE ROME OF REAL LIFE.

My first recollections of Rome date from too long ago, and from too early

an age, for me to be able to recall with ease the impression caused by

its first aspect. It is hard indeed for any one at any time to judge of

Rome fairly. Whatever may be the object of our pilgrimage, we Roman

travellers are all under some guise or other pilgrims to the Eternal

City, and gaze around us with something of a pilgrim's reverence for the

shrine of his worship. The ground we tread on is enchanted ground, we

breathe a charmed air, and are spellbound with a strange witchery. A

kind of glamour steals over us, a thousand memories rise up and chase

each other. Heroes and martyrs, sages and saints and sinners, consuls

and popes and emperors, people the weird pageant which to our mind's eye

hovers ever mistily amidst the scenes around us. Here above all places

in God's earth it is hard to forget the past and think only of the

present. This, however, is what I now want to do. Laying aside all

memory of what Rome has been, I would again describe what Rome is now.

And thus, in my solitary wanderings about the city, I have often sought

to picture to myself what would be the feelings of a stranger who, caring

nothing and knowing nothing of the past, should enter Rome with only that

listless curiosity which all travellers feel perforce, when for the first

time they approach a great capital. Let me fancy that such a traveller--a

very Gallio among travellers--is standing by my side. Let me try and

tell him what, under my mentorship, he would mark and see.

It shall not be on a bright, cloudless day that we enter Rome. To our

northern eyes the rich Italian sun-light gives to everything, even to

ruins and rags and squalor, a deceptive grandeur, and a beauty which is

not due. No, the day shall be such a day as that on which I write; such

a day in fact as the days are oftener than not at this dead season of the

year, sunless and damp and dull. The sky above is covered with

colourless, unbroken clouds, and the outline of the Alban and the Sabine

hills stands dimly out against the grey distance. It matters little by

what gate or from what quarter we enter. On every side the scene is much

the same. The Campagna surrounds the city. A wide, waste, broken,

hillock-covered plain, half common, half pasture land, and altogether

desolate; a few stunted trees, a deserted house or two, here and there a

crumbling mass of shapeless brickwork: such is the foreground through

which you travel for many a weary mile. As you approach the city there

is no change in the desolation, no sign of life. Every now and then a

string of some half-dozen peasant-carts, laden with wine-barrels or wood

faggots, comes jingling by. The carts so-called, rather by courtesy than

right, consist of three rough planks and two high ricketty wheels. The

broken-kneed horses sway to and fro beneath their unwieldy load, and the

drivers, clad in their heavy sheepskin jackets, crouch sleepily beneath

the clumsy, hide-bound framework, placed so as to shelter them from the

chill Tramontana blasts. A solitary cart is rare, for the neighbourhood

of Rome is not the safest of places, and those small piles of stone, with

the wooden cross surmounting them, bear witness to the fact that a murder

took place not long ago on the very spot you are passing now. Then,

perhaps, you come across a drove of wild, shaggy buffaloes, or a

travelling carriage rattling and jilting along, or a stray priest or so,

trudging homewards from some outlying chapel. That red-bodied funereal-

looking two-horse-coach, crawling at a snail's pace, belongs to his

Excellency the Cardinal, whom Papal etiquette forbids to walk on foot

within the city, and whom you can see a little further on pottering

feebly along the road in his violet stockings, supported by his clerical

secretary, and followed at a respectful distance by his two attendant

footmen with their threadbare liveries. At last, out of the dreary

waste, at the end of the interminable ill-paved sloughy road, the long

line of the grey tumble-down walls rises gloomily. A few cannon-shot

would batter a breach anywhere, as the events of 1849 proved only too

well. However, at Rome there is neither commerce to be impeded nor

building extension of any kind to be checked; the city has shrunk up

until its precincts are a world too wide; and the walls, if they are

useless, are harmless also; more, by the way, than you can say for most

things here. There is no stir or bustle at the gates. Two French

soldiers, striding across a bench, are playing at picquet with a pack of

greasy cards. A pack-horse or two nibble the blades of grass between the

stones, while their owners haggle with the solitary guard about the

"octroi" duties. A sentinel on duty stares listlessly at you as you

pass,--and you have entered Rome.

You are coming, I will suppose, from Ostia, and enter therefore by the

"Porta San Paolo;" the gate where legends tell that Belisarius sat and

begged. I have chosen this out of the dozen entrances as recalling

fewest of past memories and leading most directly to the heart of the

living, working city. You stand then within Rome, and look round in vain

for the signs of a city. Hard by a knot of dark cypress-trees waves

above the lonely burial-ground where Shelley lies at rest. A long,

straight, pollard-lined road stretches before you between high walls far

away; low hills or mounds rise on either side, covered by stunted,

straggling vineyards. You pass on. A beggar, squatting by the roadside,

calls on you for charity; and long after you have passed you can hear the

mumbling, droning cry, "Per l'amore di Dio e della Santa Vergine," dying

in your ears. On the wall, from time to time, you see a rude painting of

Christ upon the cross, and an inscription above the slit beneath bids you

contribute alms for the souls in purgatory. A peasant-woman it may be is

kneeling before the shrine, and a troop of priests pass by on the other

side. A string of carts again, drawn by bullocks, another shrine, and

another troop of priests, and you are come to the river's banks. The

dull, muddy Tiber rolls beneath you, and in front, that shapeless mass of

dingy, weather-stained, discoloured, plaster-covered, tile-roofed

buildings, crowded and jammed together on either side the river, is Rome

itself. You are at the city's port, the "Ripetta" or quay of Rome. In

the stream there are a dozen vessels, something between barges and

coasting smacks, the largest possibly of fifty tons' burden, which have

brought marble from Carrara for the sculptors' studios. There is a

Gravesend-looking steamer too, lying off the quay, but she belongs to the

French government, and is employed to carry troops to and from Civita

Vecchia. This is all, and at this point all traffic on the Tiber ceases.

Though the river is navigable for a long distance above Rome, yet beyond

the bridge, now in sight, not a boat is to be seen except at rare

intervals. It is the Tiber surely, and not the Thames, which should be

called the "silent highway."

A few steps more and the walls on either side are replaced by houses, and

the city has begun. The houses do not improve on a closer acquaintance;

one and all look as if commenced on too grand a scale, they had ruined

their builders before their completion, had been left standing empty for

years, and were now occupied by tenants too poor to keep them from decay.

There are holes in the wall where the scaffolding was fixed, large

blotches where the plaster has peeled away; stones and cornices which

have been left unused lie in the mud before the doors. From the window-

sills and from ropes fastened across the streets flutter half-washed rags

and strange apparel. The height of the houses makes the narrow streets

gloomy even at midday. At night, save in a few main thoroughfares, there

is no light of any kind; but then, after dark at Rome, nobody cares much

about walking in out-of-the-way places. The streets are paved with the

most angular and slippery of stones, placed herringbone fashion, with ups

and downs in every direction. Foot-pavement there is none; and the

ricketty carriages drawn by the tottering horses come swaying round the

endless corners with an utter disregard for the limbs and lives of the

foot-folk. You are out of luck if you come to Rome on a "Festa" day, for

then all the shops are shut, and the town looks drearier than ever.

However, even here the chances are two to one, or somewhat more, in

favour of the day of your arrival being a working-day. When the shops

are open there is at any rate life enough of one kind or other. In most

parts the shops have no window-fronts. Glass, indeed, there is little of

anywhere, and the very name of plate-glass is unknown. The dark, gloomy

shops varying in size between a coach-house and a wine-vault, have their

wide shutter-doors flung open to the streets. A feeble lamp hung at the

back of every shop you pass, before a painted Madonna shrine, makes the

darkness of their interiors visible. The trades of Rome are primitive

and few in number. Those dismembered, disembowelled carcases, suspended

in every variety of posture, denote the butchers' shops; not the

pleasantest of sights at any time, least of all in Rome, where the custom

of washing the meat after killing it seems never to have been introduced.

Next door too is an open stable, crowded with mules and horses. Those

black, mouldy loaves, exposed in a wire-work cage, to protect them from

the clutches of the hungry street vagabonds, stand in front of the

bakers, where the price of bread is regulated by the pontifical tariff.

Then comes the "Spaccio di Vino," that gloomiest among the shrines of

Bacchus, where the sour red wine is drunk at dirty tables by the grimiest

of tipplers. Hard by is the "Stannaro," or hardware tinker, who is

always re-bottoming dilapidated pans, and drives a brisk trade in those

clumsy, murderous-looking knives. Further on is the greengrocer, with

the long strings of greens, and sausages, and flabby balls of cheese, and

straw-covered oil-flasks dangling in festoons before his door. Over the

way is the Government depot, where the coarsest of salt and the rankest

of tobacco are sold at monopoly prices. Those gay, parti-coloured

stripes of paper, inscribed with the cabalistic figures, flaunting at the

street corner, proclaim the "Prenditoria di Lotti," or office of the

Papal lottery, where gambling receives the sanction of the Church, and

prospers under clerical auspices to such an extent that in the city of

Rome alone, with a population under two hundred thousand, fifty-five

millions of lottery tickets are said to be taken annually. Cobblers and

carpenters, barbers and old clothes-men, seem to me to carry on their

trades much in the same way all the world over. The peculiarity about

Rome is, that all these trades seem stunted in their development. The

cobbler never emerges as the shoemaker, and the carpenter fails to rise

into the upholstery line of business. Bookselling too is a trade which

does not thrive on Roman soil. Altogether there is a wonderful sameness

about the streets. Time after time, turn after turn, the same scene is

reproduced. So having got used to the first strangeness of the sight you

move on more quickly.

There is no lack of life about you now, at the shop-doors whole families

sit working at their trades, or carrying on the most private occupations

of domestic life; at every corner groups of men stand loitering about,

with hungry looks and ragged garments, reminding one only too forcibly of

the "Seven Dials" on a summer Sunday; French soldiers and beggars, women

and children and priests swarm around you. Indeed, there are priests

everywhere. There with their long black coats and broad-brimmed shovel

hats, come a score of young priests, walking two and two together, with

downcast eyes. How, without looking up, they manage to wend their way

among the crowd, is a constant miracle; the carriages, however, stop to

let them pass, for a Roman driver would sooner run over a dozen children

than knock down a priest. A sturdy, bare-headed, bare-footed monk, not

over clean, nor over savoury, hustles along with his brown robe fastened

round his waist by the knotted scourge of cord; a ghastly-looking figure,

covered in a grey shroud from head to foot, with slits for his mouth and

eyes, shakes a money-box in your face, with scowling importunity; a fat

sleek abbe comes sauntering along, peeping into the open shops or (so

scandal whispers) at the faces of the shop-girls. If you look right or

left, behind or in front, you see priests on every side,--Franciscan

friars and Dominicans, Carmelites and Capuchins, priests in brown cloth

and priests in serge, priests in red and white and grey, priests in

purple and priests in rags, standing on the church-steps, stopping at the

doorways, coming down the bye-streets, looking out of the windows--you

see priests everywhere and always. Their faces are, as a rule, not

pleasant to look upon; and I think, at first, with something of the "old

bogey" belief of childhood, you feel more comfortable when they are not

too close to you; but, ere long, this feeling wears away, and you gaze at

the priests and at the beggars with the same stolid indifference.

You are getting, by this time, into the heart of the city, ever and anon

the streets pass through some square or piazza, each like the other. In

the centre stands a broken fountain, moss-grown and weedy, whence the

water spouts languidly; on the one side is a church, on the other some

grim old palace, which from its general aspect, and the iron bars before

its windows, bears a striking resemblance to Newgate gone to ruin. Grass

grows between the flag-stones, and the piazza is emptier, quieter, and

cleaner than the street, but that is all. You stop and enter the first

church or two, but your curiosity is soon satisfied. Dull and bare

outside, the churches are gaudy and dull within. When you have seen one,

you have seen all. A crippled beggar crouching at the door, a few common

people kneeling before the candle-lighted shrines, a priest or two

mumbling at a side-altar, half-a-dozen indifferent pictures and a great

deal of gilt and marble everywhere, an odour of stale incense and mouldy

cloth, and, over all, a dim dust-discoloured light. Fancy all this, and

you will have before you a Roman church. On your way you pass no fine

buildings, for to tell the honest truth, there are no fine buildings in

Rome, except St Peter's and the Colosseum, both of which lie away from

the town. Fragments indeed of old ruins, porticoes built into the wall,

bricked-up archways and old cornice-stones, catch your eye from time to

time; and so, on and on, over broken pavements, up and down endless

hills, through narrow streets and gloomy piazzas, by churches

innumerable, amidst an ever-shifting motley crowd of peasants, soldiers,

priests, and beggars, you journey onwards for two miles or so; you have

got at last to the modern quarter, where hotels are found, and where the

English congregate. There in the "Corso," and in one or two streets

leading out of it, there are foot-pavements, lamps at night, and windows

to the shops. A fair sprinkling of second-rate equipages roll by you,

bearing the Roman ladies, with their gaudy dresses, ill-assorted colours,

and their heavy, handsome, sensual features. The young Italian nobles,

with their English-cut attire, saunter past you listlessly. The peasants

are few in number now, but the soldiers and priests and beggars are never

wanting. These streets and shops, brilliant though they seem by contrast

with the rest of the city, would, after all, only be third-rate ones in

any other European capital, and will not detain you long. On again by

the fountain of Treves, where the water-stream flows day and night

through the defaced and broken statue-work; a few steps more, and then

you fall again into the narrow streets and the decayed piazzas; on again,

between high walls, along roads leading through desolate ruin-covered

vineyards, and you are come to another gate. The French sentinels are

changing guard. The dreary Campagna lies before you, and you have passed

through Rome.

And when our stroll was over, that sceptic and incurious fellow-traveller

of mine would surely turn to take a last look at the dark heap of roofs

and chimney-pots and domes, which lies mouldering in the valley at his

feet. If I were then to tell him, that in that city of some hundred and

seventy thousand souls, there were ten thousand persons in holy orders,

and between three and four hundred churches, of which nearly half had

convents and schools attached; if I were to add, that taking in novices,

scholars, choristers, servitors, beadles, and whole tribes of clerical

attendants, there were probably not far short of forty thousand persons,

who in some form or other lived upon and by the church, that is, in

plainer words, doing no labour themselves, lived on the labour of others,

he, I think, would answer then, that a city so priest-infested, priest-

ruled and priest-ridden, would be much such a city as he had seen with

me; such a city as Rome is now.

CHAPTER II. THE COST OF THE PAPACY.

In foreign discussions on the Papal question it is always assumed, as an

undisputed fact, that the maintenance of the Papal court at Rome is, in a

material point of view, an immense advantage to the city, whatever it may

be in a moral one. Now my own observations have led me to doubt the

correctness of this assumption, which, if true, forms an important item

in the whole matter under consideration. It is no good saying, as my

"Papalini" friends are wont to do, Rome gains everything and indeed only

exists by the Papacy. The real questions are, What class at Rome gain by

it, and what is it that they gain? There are four classes at Rome: the

priests, the nobles, the bourgeoisie, and the poor. Of course if anybody

gains it is the priesthood. If the Pope were removed from Rome, or if a

lay government were established (the two hypotheses are practically

identical), the number of the Clergy would undoubtedly be much

diminished. A large portion of the convents and clerical endowments

would be suppressed, and the present generation of priests would be heavy

sufferers. This result is inevitable. Under no free government would or

could a city of 170,000 inhabitants support 10,000 unproductive persons

out of the common funds; for this is substantially the case at Rome in

the present day. Every sixteen lay citizens, men, women, and children,

support out of their labour a priest between them. The Papal question

with the Roman priesthood is thus a question of daily bread, and it is

surely no want of charity to suppose that the material aspect influences

their minds quite as much as the spiritual. Still even with regard to

the priests there are two sides to the question. The system of political

and social government inseparable from the Papacy, which closes up almost

every trade and profession, drives vast numbers into the priesthood for

want of any other occupation. The supply of priests is, in consequence,

far greater than the demand, and, as the laws of political economy hold

good even in the Papal States, priest labour is miserably underpaid. It

is a Protestant delusion that the priests in Rome live upon the fat of

the land. What fat there is is certainly theirs, but then there are too

many mouths to eat it. The Roman priests are relatively poorer than

those in any other part of Italy. It is one of the great mysteries in

Rome how all the priests who swarm about the streets manage to live. The

clue to the mystery is to be found inside the churches. In every church

here, and there are 366 of them, some score or two of masses are said

daily at the different altars. The pay for performing a mass varies from

a "Paul" to a "Scudo;" that is, in round numbers, from sixpence to a

crown. The "good" masses, those paid for by private persons for the

souls of their relatives, are naturally reserved for the priests

connected with the particular church; while the poor ones, which are paid

for out of the funds of the church, are given to any priest who happens

to apply for them. So somehow or other, what with a mass or two a day,

or by private tuition, or by charitable assistance, or in some cases by

small handicrafts conducted secretly, the large floating population of

unemployed priests rub on from day to day, in the hope of getting

ultimately some piece of ecclesiastical patronage. Yet the distress and

want amongst them are often pitiable, and, in fact, amongst the many

sufferers from the artificial preponderance given to the priesthood by

the Papal system, the poorer class of priests are not among the least or

lightest.

The nobility as a body are sure to be more or less supporters of the

established order of things. Their interests too are very much mixed up

with those of the Papacy. There is not a noble Roman family which has

not one or more of its members among the higher ranks of the priesthood,

and to a considerable degree their distinctions, such as they are, and

their temporal prospects are bound up with the Popedom. Moreover, in

this rank of the social scale the private and personal influence of the

priests, through the women of the family, is very powerful. The more

active, however, and ambitious amongst the aristocracy feel deeply the

exclusion from public life, the absence of any opening for ambition, and

the gradual impoverishment of their property, which are the necessary

evils of an absolute ecclesiastical government.

The "Bourgeoisie" stand on a very different footing. They have neither

the moral influence of the priesthood nor the material wealth of the

nobility to console them for the loss of liberty; they form indeed the

"Pariahs" of Roman society. "In other countries," a Roman once said to

me, "you have one man who lives in wealth and a thousand who live in

comfort. Here the one man lives in comfort, and the thousand live in

misery." I believe this picture is only too true. The middle classes,

who live by trade or mental labour, must have a hard time of it. The

professions of Rome are overstocked and underpaid. The large class of

government officials or "impiegati," to whom admirers of the Papacy point

with such pride as evidence of the secular character of the

administration, are paid on the most niggardly scale; while all the

lucrative and influential posts are reserved for the priestly

administrators. The avowed venality of the courts of justice is a proof

that lawyers are too poorly remunerated to find honesty their best

policy, while the extent to which barbers are still employed as surgeons

shows that the medical profession is not of sufficient repute to be

prosperous. There is no native patronage for art, no public for

literature. The very theatres, which flourish in other despotic states,

are here but losing speculations, owing to the interference of clerical

regulations. There are no commerce and no manufactures in the Eternal

city. In a back street near the Capitol, over a gloomy, stable-looking

door, you may see written up "Borsa di Roma," but I never could discover

any credible evidence of business being transacted on the Roman change.

There is but one private factory in Rome, the Anglo-Roman Gas Company.

What trade there is is huckstering, not commerce. In fact, so Romans

have told me, you may safely conclude that every native you meet walking

in the streets here, in a broadcloth coat, lives from hand to mouth, and

you may pretty surely guess that his next month's salary is already

overdrawn. The crowds of respectably-dressed persons, clerks and

shopkeepers and artizans, whom you see in the lottery offices the night

before the drawing, prove the general existence not only of improvidence

but of distress.

The favourite argument in support of the Papal rule in Rome, is that the

poor gain immensely by it. I quite admit that the argument contains a

certain amount of truth. The priests, the churches, and the convents

give a great deal of employment to the working classes. There are

probably some 30,000 persons who live on the priests, or rather out of

the funds which support them. Then, too, the system of clerical charity

operates favourably for the very poor. Any Roman in distress can get

from his priest a "buono," or certificate, that he is in want of food,

and on presenting this at one of the convents belonging to the mendicant

orders, he will obtain a wholesome meal. No man in Rome therefore need

be reduced to absolute starvation as long as he stands well with his

priest; that is, as long as he goes to confession, never talks of

politics, and kneels down when the Pope passes. Now the evil moral

effects of such a system, its tendency to destroy independent

self-respect and to promote improvidence are obvious enough, and I doubt

whether even the positive gain to the poor is unmixed. The wages paid to

the servants of the Church, and the amount given away in charity, must

come out of somebody's pockets. In fact, the whole country and the poor

themselves indirectly, if not directly, are impoverished by supporting

these unproductive classes out of the produce of labour. If prevention

is better than cure, work is any day better than charity. After all,

too, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and nowhere are the poor

more poverty-stricken and needy than in Rome. The swarms of beggars

which infest the town are almost the first objects that strike a stranger

here, though strangers have no notion of the distress of Rome. The

winter, when visitors are here, is the harvest-time of the Roman poor. It

is the summer, when the strangers are gone and the streets deserted,

which is their season of want and misery.

The truth is, that Rome, at the present day, lives upon her visitors, as

much or more than Ramsgate or Margate, for I should be disposed to

consider the native commerce of either of these bathing-places quite as

remunerative as that of the Papal capital. The Vatican is the quietest

and the least showy of European courts; and of itself, whatever it may do

by others, causes little money to be spent in the town. Even if the Pope

were removed from Rome, I much doubt, and I know the Romans doubt,

whether travellers would cease to come, or even come in diminished

numbers. Rome was famous centuries before Popes were heard of, and will

be equally famous centuries after they have passed away. The churches,

the museums, the galleries, the ruins, the climate, and the recollections

of Rome, would still remain equally attractive, whether the Pope were at

hand or not. Under a secular government the city would be far more

lively and, in many respects, more pleasant for strangers. An

enterprising vigorous rule could probably do much to check the malaria,

to bring the Campagna into cultivation, to render the Tiber navigable, to

promote roads and railways, and to develop the internal resources of the

Roman States. The gain accruing from these reforms and improvements

would, in Roman estimation, far outweigh any possible loss in the number

of visitors, or from the absence of the Papal court. Moreover, whether

rightly or wrongly, all Romans entertain an unshakeable conviction that

in an united Italian kingdom, Rome must ultimately be the chief, if not

the sole capital of Italy.

These reasons, which rest on abstract considerations, naturally affect

only the educated classes who are also biassed by their political

predilections. The small trading and commercial classes are, on somewhat

different grounds, equally dissatisfied with the present state of things.

The one boon they desire, is a settled government and the end of this

ruinous uncertainty. Now a priestly government supported by French

bayonets can never give Rome either order or prosperity. For the sake of

quiet itself, they wish for change. With respect to the poor, it is very

difficult to judge what their feelings or wishes may be. From what I

have seen, I doubt, whether in any part of Italy, with the exception of

the provinces subject to Austrian oppression, the revolution is, strictly

speaking, a popular one. I suspect that the populace of Rome have no

strong desire for Italian unity or, still less for annexation to

Sardinia, but I am still more convinced that they have no affection or

regard whatever for the existing government; not even the sort of

attachment, valueless though it be, which the lazzaroni of Naples have

for their Bourbon princes. It is incredible, if any such a feeling did

exist, that it should refuse to give any sign of its existence at such a

time as the present.

With respect to the actual pecuniary cost of the Papal government, it is

not easy to arrive at any positive information; I have little faith in

statistics generally, and in Roman statistics in particular; I have,

however, before me the official Government Budget for the year 1858. Like

all Papal documents, it is confused and meagre, but yet some curious

conclusions may be arrived at from it. The year 1858 was as quiet a

year, be it remembered, as there has been in Italy for ten years past. It

was only on new year's day, in 1859, that Napoleon dropped the first hint

of the Italian war. The year 1858 may therefore be fairly regarded as a

normal year under the present Papal system. For this year the net

receipts of the Government were,

Scudi.

Direct Taxes . . . . 3,011571

Customs . . . . . . 5,444729

Stamps . . . . . . . 947184

Post . . . . . . . . 111848

Lottery . . . . . . 392813

Licences for Trade . . 174525

Total 10,082670

Now the census, taken at the end of 1857, showed a little over 600,000

families in the Papal States. The head therefore of every family had, on

an average, to pay about 16 sc. and a half, or 3 pounds. 7_s_. 9_d_.

annually for the expenses of the Government, which for so poor a country

is pretty well. Let us now see how that money is professed to have been

spent,

The net expenses are,

Scudi.

Army . . . . . . . . 2,014047

Public Debt . . . . 4,217708

Interior . . . . . . 1,507235

Currency . . . . . . 15115

Public Works . . . . 681932

Census . . . . . . . 88151

Grant for special

purposes to Minister

of Finance . . . 1,415404

Total 9,949592

Now the Pontifical army is kept up avowedly not for purposes of defence,

but to support the Government. The public debt of 66 millions of scudi

has been incurred for the sake of keeping up this army. The expenses of

the Interior mean the expenses of the police and spies, which infest

every town in the Papal dominions, and the grant for Special Purposes,

whatever else it may mean, which is not clear, means certainly some job,

which the Government does not like to avow. The only parts, therefore,

of the expenditure which can be fairly said to be for the benefit of the

nation, are the expenses of the Currency, Census and Public Works,

amounting altogether to 785198 scudi, or not a twelfth of the net income

raised by taxation. Commercially speaking, whatever may be the case

theologically, I am afraid the Papal system can hardly be said to pay.

CHAPTER III. THE MORALITY OF ROME.

We all know the story of "Boccaccio's" Jew, who went to Rome an

unbeliever, and came back a Christian. There is no need for alarm; it is

not my intention to repeat the story. Indeed the only reason for my

alluding to it, is to introduce the remark that, at the present day, the

Jew would have returned from Rome hardened in heart and unconverted. The

flagrant profligacy, the open immorality, which in the Hebrew's judgment

supplied the strongest testimony to the truth of a religion that survived

such scandals, exist no longer. Rome is, externally, the most moral and

decorous of European cities. In reality, she may be only a whited

sepulchre, but at any rate, the whitewash is laid on very thick, and the

plaster looks uncommonly like stone. From various motives, this feature

is, I think, but seldom brought prominently forward in descriptions of

the Papal city. Protestant and liberal writers slur over the facts,

because, however erroneously, they are deemed inconsistent with the

assumed iniquity of the Government and the corruptions of the Papacy.

Catholic narrators know perhaps too much of what goes on behind the

scenes to relish calling too close an attention to the apparent

proprieties of Rome. Be the cause what it may, the moral aspect of the

Papal city seems to me to be but little dwelt upon, and yet on many

accounts it is a very curious one.

As far as Sabbatarianism is concerned, Rome is the Glasgow of Italy. All

shops, except druggists', tobacconists', and places of refreshment, are

hermetically closed on Sundays. Even the barbers have to close at half-

past ten in the morning under a heavy fine, and during the Sundays in

Lent cafes and eating-houses are shut throughout the afternoon, because

the waiters are supposed to go to catechism. The English reading-rooms

are locked up; there is no delivery of letters, and no mails go out. A

French band plays on the Pincian at sunset, and the Borghese gardens are

thrown open; but these, till evening, are the only public amusements. At

night, it is true, the theatres are open, but then in Roman Catholic

countries, Sunday evening is universally accounted a feast. To make up

for this, the theatres are closed on every Friday in the year, as they

are too throughout Lent and Advent; and once a week or more there is sure

to be a Saint's day as well, on which shops and all are closed, to the

great trial of a traveller's patience. All the amusements of the Papal

subjects are regulated with the strictest regard to their morals. Private

or public gambling of any kind, excepting always the Papal Lottery, is

strictly suppressed. There are no public dancing-places of any kind, no

casinos or "cafes chantants." No public masked balls are allowed, except

one or two on the last nights of the Carnival. The theatres themselves

are kept under the most rigid "surveillance." Every thing, from the

titles of the plays to the petticoats of the ballet-girls, undergoes

clerical inspection. The censorship is as unsparing of "double

entendres" as of political allusions, and "Palais Royal" farces are

'Bowdlerized' down till they emerge from the process innocuous and dull;

compared with one at the "Apollo," a ballet at the Princess's was a wild

and voluptuous orgy.

The same system of repression prevails in everything. In the print-shops

one never sees a picture which even verges on impropriety. The few

female portraits exhibited in their windows are robed with an amount of

drapery which would satisfy the most prudish "sensibilities." All books,

which have the slightest amorous tendency, are scrupulously interdicted

without reference to their political views. The number of wine-shops

seems to me small in proportion to the size of the city, and in none of

them, as far as I could learn, are spirits sold. There is another

subject, which will suggest itself at once to any one acquainted with the

life of towns, but on which it is obviously difficult to enter fully. It

is enough to say, that what the author of "Friends in Council" styles,

with more sentiment than truth, "the sin of great cities," does not

"apparently" exist in Rome. Not only is public vice kept out of sight,

as in some other Italian cities, but its private haunts and resorts are

absolutely and literally suppressed. In fact, if priest rule were

deposed, and our own Sabbatarians and total-abstinence men and societies

for the suppression of vice, reigned in its stead, I doubt if Rome could

be made more outwardly decorous than it is at present.

This then is the fair side of the picture. What is the aspect of the

reverse? In the first place, the system requires for its working an

amount of constant clerical interference in all private affairs, which,

to say the least, is a great positive evil. Confession is the great

weapon by means of which morality is enforced. Servants are instructed

to report about their employers, wives about their husbands, children

about their parents, and girls about their lovers. Every act of your

life is thus known to, and interfered with, by the priests. I might

quote a hundred instances of petty interference: let me quote the first

few that come to my memory. No bookseller can have a sale of books

without submitting each volume to clerical supervision. An Italian

gentleman, resident here, had to my own knowledge to obtain a special

permission in order to retain a copy of Rousseau's works in his private

library. The Roman nobles are not allowed to hunt because the Pope

considers the amusement dangerous. Profane swearing is a criminal

offence. Every Lent all restaurateurs are warned by a solemn edict not

to supply meat on fast days, and then told that "whenever on the

forbidden days they are obliged to supply rich meats, they must do so in

a separate room, in order that scandal may be avoided, and that all may

know they are in the capital of the catholic world." Forced marriages

are matters of constant occurrence, and even strangers against whom a

charge of affiliation is brought are obliged either to marry their

accuser, or make provision for the illegitimate offspring. In the

provinces the system of interference is naturally carried to yet greater

lengths. Nine years ago certain Christians at Bologna, who had opened

shops in the Jewish quarter of the town, were ordered to leave at once,

because such a practice was in "open opposition to the Apostolic laws and

institutions." Again, Cardinal Cagiano, Bishop of Senigaglia, published

a decree in the year 1844, which has never been repealed, to promote

morality in his diocese. In that decree the following articles occur:

"All young men and women are strictly forbidden, under any pretext

whatever, to give or receive presents from each other before marriage.

All persons who have received such presents before the publication of

this decree, are required to make restitution of them within three

months, or to become betrothed to the donor within the said period.

Any one who contravenes these regulations is to be punished by fifteen

days imprisonment, during which he is to support himself at his own

expense, and the presents will be devoted to some pious purpose to be

determined on hereafter."

I could multiply instances of this sort indefinitely, but I know of none

more striking than the last.

So much for the mode in which the system is worked, and now as to its

practical result. To judge fully, it is necessary to get behind the

scenes, a thing not easy for a stranger anywhere, least of all here.

There is too the further difficulty, that when you have got behind the

scenes, it is not very easy to narrate your esoteric experiences to the

public. Even if there were no other objection, it would be useless to

quote individual stories and facts which have come privately to my

knowledge, and which would show Rome, in spite of its external propriety,

to be one of the most corrupt, debauched, and demoralized of cities. Each

separate story can be disputed or explained away, but the weight of the

general evidence is overpowering. In these matters it is best to keep to

the old Latin rule, "Experto crede." I have talked with many persons,

Romans, Italians, and foreign residents, on the subject, and from one and

all I have heard similar accounts. Every traveller I have ever met with,

who has made like inquiries, has come to a like conviction. In a country

where there is practically neither press nor public courts, nor

responsible government, where even no classified census is allowed to be

taken, statistics are hard to obtain, and of little value when obtained.

Personal evidence, unsatisfactory as it is, is after all the best you can

arrive at. With regard then to what, in its strictest sense, is termed

the "morality" of Rome, I must dismiss the subject with the remarks, that

the absence of recognized public resorts and agents of vice may be dearly

purchased when parents make a traffic in their own houses of their

children's shame, and that perhaps as far as the state is concerned the

debauchery of a few is a less evil than the dissoluteness of the whole

population. More I cannot and need not say. With respect to other sins

against the Decalogue, it is an easier task to speak. There is very

little drunkenness in Rome I freely admit, but then the Italians, like

most natives of warm countries, are naturally sober. Rome is certainly

not superior in this respect to other Italian cities; since the

introduction of the French soldiery probably the contrary. At the street

corners you constantly see exhortations against profane swearing, headed

"Bestemmiatore orrendo nome," but in spite of this, the amount of

blasphemies that any common Roman will pour forth on the slightest

provocation, is really appalling. Beggars too are universal. Everybody

begs; if you ask a common person your way along the street, the chances

are that he asks you for a "buono mano." Now, even if you doubt the

truth of Sheridan's dictum, that no man could be honest without being

rich, it is hard to believe in a virtuous beggar. The abundance, also,

of lotteries shakes one's faith in Roman morality. A population amongst

whom gambling and beggary are encouraged by their spiritual and temporal

rulers is not likely in other respects to be a virtuous or a moral one.

The frequency of violent crimes is in itself a startling fact.

To my eyes, indeed, the very look of the city and its inhabitants, is a

strong _prima facie_ ground of suspicion. There is vice on those worn,

wretched faces--vice in those dilapidated hovel-palaces--vice in those

streets, teeming with priests and dirt and misery. In fact, if you only

fancy to yourself a city, where there are no manufactures, no commerce,

no public life of any kind; where the rich are condemned to involuntary

idleness, and the poor to enforced misery; where there is a population of

some ten thousand ecclesiastics in the prime of life, without adequate

occupation for the most part, and all vowed to celibacy; where priests

and priest-rule are omnipotent, and where every outlet for the natural

desires and passions of men is carefully cut off--if you take in fully

all these conditions and their inevitable consequences, you will not be

surprised if to me, as to any one who knows the truth, the outward

morality of Rome seems but the saddest of its many mockeries.

CHAPTER IV. THE ROMAN PEOPLE.

"Senatus Populusque Romanus." The phrase sounds strangely, in my ears,

like the accents of an unknown language or the burden of a half-forgotten

melody. In those four initial letters there seems to me always to lie

embodied an epitome of the world's history--the rise and decline and fall

of Rome. On the escutcheons of the Roman nobles, the S.P.Q.R. are still

blazoned forth conspicuously, but where shall we look for the realities

expressed by that world-famed symbol? It is true, the Senate is still

represented by a single Senator, nominated by the Pope, who drives in a

Lord Mayor's state coach on solemn occasions; and regularly, on the first

night of the opera season, sends round ices, as a present to the favoured

occupants of the second and third tiers of boxes at the "Apollo." This

gentleman, by all the laws of senatorial succession, is the undoubted

heir and representative of the old Roman Senate, who sat with their togas

wrapped around them, waiting for the Gaul to strike; but alas, the

"Populus Romanus" has left behind him neither heir nor descendant.

Yet surely, if anything of dead Rome be still left in the living city, it

should be found in the Roman people. In the _Mysteres du Peuple_ of

Eugene Sue, there is a story, that to the Proletarian people, the sons of

toil and labour, belong genealogies of their own, pedigrees of families,

who from remote times have lived and died among the ranks of industry.

These fabulous families, I have often thought, should have had their home

in the Eternal City. Amongst the peasants that you meet, praying in the

churches, or basking in the sun-light, or toiling in the deadly Campagna

plains, there must be some, who, if they knew it, descend in direct

lineage from the ancient "Plebs." It may be so, or rather it must be so;

but of the fact there is little outward evidence. You look in vain for

the characteristic features of the old Roman face, such as you behold

them when portrayed in ancient statues. The broad low brow, the

depressed skull, the protruding under-jaw, and the thin compressed lips,

are to be seen no longer. Indeed, though I make the remark with the fear

of the artist-world before my eyes, I should hardly say myself, that the

Romans of the present day were a very handsome race; and of their own

type they are certainly inferior both to Tuscans and Neapolitans. The

men are well formed and of good height, but not powerful in build or

make, and their features are rather marked than regular. As for the

women, when you have once perceived that hair may be black as coal and

yet coarse as string, that bright sparkling eyes may be utterly devoid of

expression, and that an olive complexion may be deepened by the absence

of washing, you grow somewhat sceptical as to the reality of their

vaunted beauty. All this, however, is a matter of personal taste, about

which it is useless to express a decided opinion. I must content myself

with the remark, that the Roman peasantry as depicted, year after year,

on the walls of our academy, bear about the same resemblance to the

article provided for home consumption, as the ladies in an ordinary

London ball-room bear to the portraits in the "Book of Beauty." The

peasants' costumes too, like the smock-frocks and scarlet cloaks of Old

England, are dying out fast. On the steps in the "Piazza di Spagna," and

in the artists' quarter above, you see some score or so of models with

the braided boddices, and the head-dresses of folded linen, standing

about for hire. The braid, it is true, is torn; the snow-white linen

dirt-besmeared, and the brigand looks feeble and inoffensive, while the

hoary patriarch plays at pitch and toss: but still they are the same

figures that we know so well, the traditional Roman peasantry of the

"Grecian" and the "Old Adelphi." Unfortunately, they are the last of the

Romans. In other parts of the city the peasants' dresses are few and far

between; the costume has become so uncommon, as to be now a fashionable

dress for the Roman ladies at Carnival time and other holiday festivals.

On Sundays and "Festas" in the mountain districts you can still find real

peasants with real peasants' dresses; but even there Manchester stuffs

and cottons are making their way fast, and every year the old-fashioned

costumes grow rarer and rarer. A grey serge jacket, coarse nondescript-

coloured cloth trousers, and a brown felt hat, all more or less ragged

and dusty, compose the ordinary dress of the Roman working man. Female

dress, in any part of the world, is one of those mysteries which a wise

man will avoid any attempt to explain; I can only say, therefore, that

the dress of the common Roman women is much like that of other European

countries, except that the colours used are somewhat gayer and gaudier

than is common in the north.

Provisions are dear in Rome. Bread of the coarsest and mouldiest quality

costs, according to the Government tariff, by which its price is

regulated, from a penny to three halfpence for the English pound. Meat

is about a third dearer than in London, and clothing, even of the poorest

sort, is very high in price. On the other hand, lodgings, of the class

used by the poor, are cheap enough. There is no outlay for firing, as

even in the coldest weather (and I have known the temperature in Rome as

low as eight degrees below freezing-point), even well-to-do Romans never

think of lighting a fire; and then, in this climate, the actual quantity

of victuals required by an able-bodied labourer is far smaller than in

our northern countries, while, from the same cause, the use of strong

liquors is almost unknown. Tobacco too, which is all made up in the

Papal factories and chiefly grown in the country, is reasonable in price,

though poor in quality. In the country and the poorer parts of the city,

the dearest cigar you can buy is only a baioccho, or under one halfpenny;

and from this fact you may conclude what the price of the common cheap

cigars is to a native. From all these causes, I feel no doubt that the

cost of living for the poor is comparatively small, though of course the

rate of wages is small in proportion. For ordinary unskilled labour, the

day-wages, at the winter season, are about three pauls to three pauls and

a half; in summer about five pauls; and in the height of the vintage as

much as six or seven pauls, though this is only for a very few weeks. I

should suppose, therefore, that from 1_s_. 6_d_. to 1_s_. 9_d_. a day,

taking the paul at 5_d_., were the average wages of a good workman at

Rome. From these wages, small as they are, there are several deductions

to be made.

In the first place, the immense number of "festas" tells heavily on the

workman's receipts. On the more solemn feast-days all work is strictly

forbidden by the priests; and either employer or labourer, who was

detected in an infraction of the law, would be subject to heavy fines.

Even on the minor festivals, about the observance of which the Church is

not so strict, labour is almost equally out of the question. The people

have got so used to holiday keeping, that nothing but absolute necessity

can induce them to work, except on working days. All over Italy this is

too much the case. I was told by a large manufacturer in Florence, that

having a great number of orders on hand, and knowing extreme distress to

prevail among his workmen's families, he offered double wages to any one

who came to work on a "festa" day, but that only two out of a hundred

responded to his offer. I merely mention this fact, as one out of many

such I have heard, to show how this abuse must prevail in Rome, where

every moral influence is exerted in favour of idleness against industry,

and where the observance of holy days is practised most religiously.

Then, too, the higher rate of wages paid in summer is counterbalanced by

the extra risk to which the labourer is exposed. The ravages created by

the malaria fevers amongst the ill-bred, ill-clothed, and ill-cared-for

labourers, are really fearful. Indeed it is hardly an exaggeration to

say, that the whole working population of Rome is eaten up with malaria.

I feel myself convinced that the misery and degradation of the Papal

States are to be attributed to two causes, the enormous burden of the

priesthood, and the ravages of the malaria. How far these two causes are

in any way connected with each other, I have never been able to

determine. It is one of the rhetorical exaggerations which have impaired

the utility of the _Question Romaine_, that M. About, in his remarkable

work, always treats the malaria as if it was solely due to the

inefficiency of the Papal Government, and would disappear with the

deposition of the Pope. This unphilosophical view is generally adopted

by liberal opponents of the Papacy, who lay the malaria to its doors,

while Papal advocates, on the contrary, always treat the malaria as a

mysterious scourge which can never be removed or even palliated; a view

almost as unphilosophical as the other. For my own part, I have only

been able to arrive at three isolated conclusions on the subject. First,

that mere cultivation of the Campagna, as shown by Prince Borghese's

unsuccessful experiments, does not at any rate immediately affect the

virulence of the miasma, or whatever the malaria may be. Secondly, that

the malaria can actually be built out, or, in other words, if the

Campagna was covered with a stone pavement, the disease would disappear--a

remedy obviously impracticable; and lastly, that though the existence of

the malaria cannot be removed, as far I can see, yet that its evil

effects might be immensely lessened by warm clothing, good food, and

prompt medical aid at the commencement of the malady. Whatever tends to

improve the general condition of the Roman peasantry will put these

remedies more and more within their reach, and will therefore tend to

check the ravages of the malaria. Thus, the inefficient and obstructive

Government of the Vatican, which checks all material as well as all moral

progress, increases indirectly the virulence of the fever-plague; but

this, I think, is the most that can fairly be stated.

I trust that, considering the importance of the subject, this digression,

unsatisfactory as it is, may be pardoned; and I now turn to the third

curse, which eats up the wages of the working man at Rome--a curse even

greater, I think, than the "festas" or the malaria--I mean, the

universality of the middle-man system. If you require any work done,

from stone carving to digging, you seldom or never deal with the actual

workman. If you are a farmer and want your harvest got in, you contract

months beforehand with an agent, who agrees to supply you with harvest-

men in certain numbers, at a certain price, out of which price he pockets

as large a percentage as he can, and has probably commissions to pay

himself to some sub-contractor. If you are a sculptor and wish a block

of marble chiselled in the rough, the man you contract with to hew the

block at certain day-wages brings a boy to do the work at half the above

amount or less, and only looks in from time to time to see how the work

is proceeding. It is the same in every branch of trade or business. If

you wish to make a purchase, or effect a sale, or hire a servant, you

have a whole series of commissions or brokerages to pay before you come

into contact with the principal.

If you inquire why this system is not broken through, why the employer

does not deal directly with his workmen, you are told that the custom of

the country is against any other method; that amongst the workmen

themselves there is so much terrorism and intimidation and _espionnage_,

that any single employer or labourer, who contracted for work

independently, would run a risk of annoyance or actual injury; of having,

for example, his block of marble split "by a slip of the hand," or his

tools destroyed, or a knife stuck into him as he went home at night, and,

more than all, that, without the supervision of the actual overseer, your

workmen would cheat you right and left, no matter what wages you paid.

After all it is better to be cheated by one man than by a dozen, and

being at Rome you must do as the Romans do.

It may possibly have been observed that, in the foregoing paragraph, I

have spoken of the "workmen at Rome," not of the Roman workmen. The

difference, though slight verbally, is an all-important one. The workmen

in Rome are not Romans, for the Romans proper never work. The Campagna

is tilled in winter by groups of peasants, who come from the Marches, in

long straggling files, headed by the "Pifferari," those most inharmonious

of pipers. In summer-time the harvest is reaped and the vintage gathered

in by labourers, whose homes lie far away in the Abruzzi mountains. In

many ways these mountaineers bear a decided resemblance to the swarms of

Irish labourers who come across to England in harvest-time. They are

frugal, good-humoured, and, compared to the native Romans, honest and

hard-working. A very small proportion too of the working-men in Rome

itself are Romans. Certain trades, as that of the cooks for instance,

are almost confined to the inhabitants of particular outlying districts.

The masons, carpenters, carvers, and other mechanical trades, are filled

by men who do not belong to the city, and who are called and considered

foreigners. Of course the rule is not without exceptions, and you will

find genuine Romans amongst the common workmen, but amongst the skilled

workmen hardly ever. There is a very large, poor, I might almost say,

pauper population in Rome, and in some form or other these poor must work

for their living, but their principle is to do as little work as

possible. There still exists amongst the Romans a sort of debased,

imperial pride, a belief that a Roman is _per se_ superior to all other

Italians. For manual work, or labour under others, they have an equal

contempt and dislike. All the semi-independent trades, like those of cab-

drivers, street-vendors, petty shopkeepers, &c. are eagerly sought after

and monopolized by Romans. The extent to which small trades are carried

on by persons utterly without capital and inevitably embarrassed with

debt, is one of the chief evils in the social system which prevails here.

If the Romans also, like the unjust steward, are too proud to dig, unlike

that worthy, to beg they are _not_ ashamed. Begging is a recognized and

a respected profession, and if other trades fail there is always this

left. The cardinal principle of Papal rule is to teach its subjects to

rely on charity rather than industry. In order to relieve in some

measure the fearful distress that existed among the poor of Rome in the

early spring, the Government took some thousand persons into their

employment, and set them to work on excavating the Forum. The sight of

these men working, or, more correctly speaking, idling at work, used to

be reckoned one of the stock jokes of the season. Six men were regularly

employed in conveying a wheelbarrow filled with two spadefuls of soil.

There was one man to each handle, two in front to pull when the road

rose, and one on each side to give a helping hand and keep the barrow

steady. You could see any day long files of such barrows, so escorted,

creeping to and from the Forum. It is hardly necessary to say that

little progress was ever made in the excavations, or, for that matter,

intended to be made. Yet the majority of these workmen were able-bodied

fellows, who received tenpence a day for doing nothing. Much less injury

would have been inflicted on their self-respect by giving them the money

outright than in return for this mockery of labour. Moreover the poor in

Rome, as I have mentioned elsewhere, are not afraid of actual starvation.

"Well-disposed" persons, with a good word from the priests, can obtain

food at the convents of the mendicant friars. I am not saying there is

no good in this custom; in fact, it is almost the one good feature I know

of connected with the priestly system of government; but still, on an

indolent and demoralised population like that of Rome, the benefit of

this sort of charity, which destroys the last and the strongest motive

for exertion, is by no means an unmixed one.

The amusements of the people are much what might be expected from their

occupations. To do them justice, they drink but moderately; but whenever

they can spare the time and money, they crowd out into the roadside

"Osterias," and spend hours, smoking and sipping the red wine lazily.

Walking is especially distasteful to them; and on a Sunday and festa-day

you will see hundreds of carriages filled with working people, though the

fares are by no means cheap. Whole families will starve themselves for

weeks before the Carnival, and leave themselves penniless at the end, to

get costumes and carriages to drive down the "Corso" with on the gala

days. The Romans, too, are a nation of gamblers. Their chief amusement,

not to say their chief occupation, is gambling. In the middle of the

day, at street-corners and in sunny spots, you see groups of working-men

playing at pitch halfpenny, or gesticulating wildly over the mysterious

game of "Moro." Skittles and stone-throwing are the only popular

amusements which require any bodily exertion; and both of these, as

played here, are as much chance as skill. The lottery, too, is the great

national pastime.

This picture of the Roman people may not seem a very favourable or a very

promising one. I quite admit, that many persons, who have come much into

contact with them, speak highly of their general good humour, their

affectionate feelings and their sharpness of intellect. At the same

time, I have observed that these eulogists of the Roman populace are

either Papal partizans who, believing that "this is the best of all

possible worlds," wish to prove also that "everything here is for the

best," or else they are vehement friends of Italy, who are afraid of

damaging their beloved cause by an admission of the plain truth, that the

Romans are not as a people either honest, truthful or industrious. For

my own part, my faith is different. A bad government produces bad

subjects, and I am not surprised to find in the debasement and

degradation of a priest-ruled people the strongest condemnation of the

Papal system.

CHAPTER V. TRIALS FOR MURDER.

The idler about the streets of Rome may, from time to time, catch sight,

on blank walls and dead corners, of long white strips of paper, covered

with close-printed lines of most uninviting looking type, and headed with

the Papal arms--the cross-keys and tiara. If, being like myself

afflicted with an inquisitive turn of mind, he takes the trouble of

deciphering these hieroglyphic documents, his labour would not be

altogether thrown away. Those straggling strips, stuck up in out-of-the-

way places, glanced at by a few idle passers-by, and torn down by the

prowling vagabonds of the streets after a day or two for the sake of the

paper, are the sole public records of justice issued, or allowed to be

issued, under the Pontifical government. Trials are carried on here with

closed doors; no spectators are admitted; no reports of the proceedings

are published. In capital cases, however, _after_ the execution of the

criminal has taken place a sort of _Proces verbal_ of the case and of the

trial is placarded on the walls of the chief towns.

During the period of my stay at Rome there were three executions in

different parts of the Papal territory. Whether by accident or by design

I cannot say, but all these executions occurred within a short period of

each other, and, in consequence, three such statements were issued almost

at the same time by the Government. With considerable difficulty I

succeeded in obtaining copies of these statements, not, I am bound to

say, because there seemed to be any reluctance in furnishing them, but

because the fact of anybody wishing to obtain copies was so unusual, that

there was no preparation made for supplying them; and, at last, I only

succeeded in procuring them from a printer's devil to the Stanperia

Apostolica. The facts narrated in them, and the circumstances alluded

to, seem to me to throw a strange light on the administration of justice,

and the daily life of this priest-ruled country. It is as such that I

wish to comment on them. In these statements, be it remembered, there is

no question of political or clerical bias. The facts stated are all

facts, admitted by the authorities of their own free will and pleasure;

and if, as I think, these facts tell most unfavourably on the judicial

system of our clerical rulers, it is, at any rate, out of their own

mouths they are convicted. All, therefore, that I propose to do is,

having these official statements before me, to tell the stories that they

contain, as shortly and as clearly as I can, adding no comment of my own

but what is necessary to explain the facts in question. Let me take

first the case, which is entitled "Cannara contro Luigi Bonci;" the

township of Cannara, where the crime was committed, being what we should

call in a civil suit the plaintiff, and the accused Bonci the defendant.

CHAPTER V.--continued. THE "BONCI" MURDER.

Some three years ago, then, there lived in the hamlet of Cannara, near

Perugia, a family called Bonci. They belonged to the peasant class, and

were poor, even among the Papal peasantry. The family consisted of the

father and mother, and of their son and daughter, both grown up. Between

the father and son there had long been ill-blood. The cause of this want

of family harmony is but indistinctly stated, but apparently it was due

to the irregular habits of the son, and to the severity of the father;

while all this domestic misery was rendered doubly bitter by the almost

abject want of the household. On the night of November the 9th, 1856,

Venanzio Bonci, the father, Maria Rosa, his wife, and their daughter,

Caterina, were at supper in the miserable room, which formed the whole of

their dwelling, waiting for the return of the son, Luigi, who had been

absent ever since the morning. There had been frequent quarrels before

between father and son about Luigi's stopping out late, and now it was

past midnight. There was no light in the room except a faint flicker

from the embers, and the feeble glimmering of the starlight which entered

through the open windows. A noise was heard in the stable underneath the

room, and the father, thinking it was the son, called out three or four

times, but got no answer. A few minutes after Luigi entered without the

lantern, which he had left below in the stable, and although his sister

bade him good night he made no reply. As he entered the room his father

called to him, "A fine time of night to come home." "What then?" was the

only answer given by Luigi. "You have never been home since morning,"

went on the father. "What then?" was still the only answer. The father

then told the son to hold his tongue, and again received the same reply.

At last Venanzio, losing his temper, called out, "Be quiet, or I'll break

your head;" or, according to the story, "I'll murder you:" to which Luigi

only answered, "I may as well die to-day as to-morrow." After that there

was a short scuffle heard, and Venanzio suddenly cried out as if in pain,

"My God! my God!" The mother and daughter screamed for help, but by the

time the neighbours had come in with lights, Luigi had run off. Venanzio

was found reeling to and fro, with blood pouring from several wounds,

and, in spite of medical aid, he died in the course of a few hours.

Almost immediately after the commission of the crime Luigi was found by

the gendarmes in the cottage of an uncle, and arrested on the spot.

These, as far as I can learn from the very confused documents before me,

are all the facts admitted without question; or, more strictly speaking,

which the Government states to have been unquestioned. Luigi was

arrested on the night of the murder. Such small evidence as there was

could have been ascertained in twenty-four hours, and yet the prisoner

was never brought to trial till the 3rd of May, 1858; that is, eighteen

months afterwards. On that day Luigi Bonci was arraigned before the

civil and criminal court of Perugia, on the two counts of parricide, and

of having illegal arms in his possession. The Court was composed of the

President, Judge, Assistant Judge, and Deputy Judge of the district.

These gentlemen (all, I should state, lay officials) were assisted by the

public prosecutor and the Government counsel for the defence. The course

of proceedings is stated to have been as follows: prayers were first

offered up for the Divine guidance, the prisoner was introduced and

identified, the written depositions were read over, a narrative of the

facts was given by the president, the prisoner was called upon to reply

to the charges alleged against him, the witnesses for the crown and for

the prisoner were heard respectively, the counsel for the prosecution

called upon the court to condemn the prisoner, and was replied to by the

counsel for the defence; the discussion was then declared closed, and

after the judges had retired and deliberated, their sentence was given.

All the facts I have been able to put together about the case are

gathered from this sentence and from those of the courts of appeal. These

sentences, however, are extremely lengthy, very indistinct, and

encumbered with a great deal of legal phraseology. As they are all alike

I may as well give an abstract of this one as a specimen of all. The

sentence begins with the following moral remarks: "Frequent paternal

admonitions, alleged scarcity of daily food, and the evil counsels of

others, had alienated the heart of the prisoner to such an extent, that

feelings of affection and reverence towards his own father, Venanzio, had

given place to contempt, disobedience, ill-will, and even worse." No

one, however, would have supposed that he "was capable of becoming a

parricide, as was too clearly proved on the fatal night in question."

After these preliminary reflections comes a narration of the facts much

in the words in which I have given them. This is followed by a statement

of the arguments for the prosecution and for the defence, consisting of a

number of verbose paragraphs, each beginning, "considering that," &c. The

case of the prosecution was clear enough. The medical evidence proved

that the father died of the wounds received on the above-named night. The

fact that the wounds were inflicted by the prisoner, was established by

the evidence of his mother and sister, who overheard the quarrel between

him and his father, by the flight after commission of the crime, by the

discovery of a blood-stained knife dropped on the threshold, by the

deposition of the father before death, and lastly, by the confession of

the prisoner himself, who admitted the crime, though under extenuating

circumstances. The fact that the sister never heard the knife open,

although it had three clasps, was asserted to be evidence that the

prisoner entered the room with his knife open and intending to commit the

crime. This charge of _malice prepense_ was supported by the son's

refusal to answer his father, by the insolence of his language, and by

the number and vehemence of the stabs he inflicted.

The prisoner's defence was also very simple. According to his own story,

he was half drunk on his return home. His father not only taunted and

threatened him, but at last seized the door-bar and began knocking him

about the head; and then, at last, maddened with pain and passion, he

drew out a knife he had picked up on the road, and stabbed his father,

hardly knowing what he did. On the bare statement of facts, I should

deem this version of the story the more probable of the two, but as no

details whatever are given of the evidence on either side, it is

impossible to judge. The court at any rate decided that there was no

proof of the prisoner having been drunk, and that the evidence of his

father having struck him was of a suspicious character, "while," they

add, "it would be absurd and immoral to maintain, that a father, whose

right and duty it is to correct his children (and indeed on this occasion

correction was abundantly deserved by the insolent demeanour of Luigi)

could be considered to provoke his son by a slight personal

chastisement." The son, by the way, was over one and twenty, a fact to

which no allusion is made. As "a forlorn hope," in the words of the

sentence, the counsel for the defence asserted, that whatever the crime

of the prisoner might be, it was not parricide, from the simple fact that

Luigi was not Venanzio's son. The facts of the case appear to have been,

that Maria Rosa Battistoni being then unmarried, gave birth in July 1835

to a son, who was the prisoner at the bar; that shortly afterwards the

vicar of Cannara gave information to the Episcopal court of Assisi, that

Maria Rosa had been seduced by Venanzio Bonci and had had an illegitimate

child by him; that, in consequence, a formal requisition was addressed by

the above court to Venanzio, and that he thereupon acknowledged the

paternity of the child, and expressed his readiness to marry the mother.

The marriage was therefore solemnized, and the child entered in the

church-books as the legitimized son of Venanzio and Maria Bonci, in June,

1836. Against this strong presumptive evidence of paternity, and the

natural inference to be drawn from the child having been brought up and

educated as Venanzio's son, there were only, we are told, to be set,

alleged expressions of doubt on the father's part, when in a passion, as

to his being really the father, and also certain confessions of the

mother to different parties, that Luigi was not the child of her husband.

All these confessions however, so it is asserted, were proved to be

subsequent in date to the son's arrest, and therefore, probably, made

with a view to save his life. The plea is in consequence rejected.

No defence was attempted to the second count. Both charges are therefore

declared fully proved; and as the punishment for parricide is public

execution, and the penalty for having in one's possession (a lighter

offence by the way, than using) any weapon without special license,

consists of imprisonment from two to twelve months, and of a fine from

five to sixty scudi, therefore the court "condemns Luigi Bonci for the

first count, to be publicly executed in Cannara, and to make compensation

to the heirs of the murdered man, according to the valuation of the civil

tribunals, and to pay the cost of the trial; and on the second count, the

court" (with a pedantic mockery of mercy) "considers the first three

months of the incarceration the prisoner has already undergone to be

sufficient punishment, coupled with a fine of five scudi and the loss of

the weapon."

This summary will, I fear, give the reader too favourable an opinion of

the original sentence. In order to make the story at all intelligible, I

have had to pick out my facts, from a perfect labyrinth of sentences and

parentheses. All I, or any one else can state is, that these seem to be

the facts, which seem to have been proved by the witnesses. What the

character of the evidence was, or what was the relative credibility of

the witnesses, whose very names I know not, or how far their assertions

were borne out or contradicted by circumstantial proof, are all matters

on which (though the whole character of the crime depends on them) I can

form no opinion whatever.

The trial occupied but one day, and yet the above sentence, it appears,

was not communicated to the prisoner till the 15th of October, 1858, that

is, over five months afterwards. When the official announcement of the

sentence was made, the prisoner declared his intention of appealing

against its justice. By the Papal law, every person condemned for a

criminal offence, by the lay tribunals, has the right of appealing to the

Supreme Pontifical Court. It is, therefore, needless to say, that in all

cases where sentence of death is passed, an appeal is made on any ground,

however trivial, as the condemned culprit cannot lose by this step, and

may gain. The practical and obvious objection to this unqualified power

of appeal, is that the supreme ecclesiastical court is the real judge,

not the nominal lay court, which does little more than register the fact,

that the crime is proved _prima facie_.

On the 15th of February, 1859, after a delay of four months more from the

time of appeal, the court of the supreme tribunal of the Consulta Sacra,

assembled at the Monte Citorio in Rome, to try the appeal. The court was

composed of six "most illustrious and reverend Judges," all "Monsignori"

and all dignitaries of the Church, assisted by a public prosecutor and

counsel for the defence, attached to the Papal exchequer. The course of

proceedings appears to be much the same as in the inferior courts, except

that no witnesses, save the prisoner, were examined orally, and the whole

evidence was taken from written depositions. At last, after "invoking

the most sacred name of God," the court pronounce their sentence. This

sentence is in a great measure a recapitulation of the preceding one.

Either no new facts were adduced, or none are alluded to. The grounds

for the defence are the same as on the previous occasion, namely, the

provocation given by the father, and the doubt as to the son's paternity.

There were, in fact, two questions before the court. First, whether the

crime committed was murder or manslaughter; and, if it was murder,

whether the murderer was or was not the son of the murdered man. Instead,

however, of facing either of these questions of fact, the court seems to

enter upon abstract considerations, which to our notions are quite

irrelevant. The degree to which paternal corrections can be carried

without abuse, and the problem whether a man who kills a person, whom he

believes and has reason to believe to be his father, but who is not so in

fact, is guilty or not of the sin of parricide, seem rather questions for

clerical casuistry than considerations which bear upon facts. The final

conclusion drawn from these various reflections is, that the court

confirms the judgment of the Perugian tribunal, in every respect.

The rejection of the appeal is not communicated for two months more, that

is, not till the 22nd of April, to the prisoner, who at once appeals

again against the execution of the verdict to the Upper Court of the

Supreme Tribunal. On the 13th of May the case comes on for its third and

last trial. The court is again composed of six ecclesiastics of high

rank, assisted by the same official counsel as before; the same course of

proceeding is adopted, except that the prisoner is not brought into court

or examined. Again, after "invoking the most holy name of God," the

tribunal pronounces, not its sentence this time, but its judgment. This

judgment alludes only to the two grounds on which the appeal is based.

The first is the question of paternity, which is at once dismissed, as

being a matter of evidence that has been already decided. The second

ground of appeal is a technical and a legal one. The defence appears to

have pleaded, that the original arrest was illegal, and that, by this

fact, the whole trial was vitiated. On both sides it was admitted that

the prisoner was arrested without a warrant, and not in "flagrante

delicto," and that therefore the arrest was, strictly speaking, illegal.

The court, however, decides, that though the prisoner was not taken in

the act, yet his guilt was so manifest, that the gendarmes were justified

in acting as if they had caught him perpetrating the crime, while in

offences of great atrocity the police have also a discretionary power to

arrest offenders, even without warrants. Though in this particular

instance the result is not much to be regretted, yet it is obvious, that

the admission of such a principle, and such an interpretation of the law,

gives the police unlimited power of arrest, subject to the approval of

their superiors: whether right or wrong, therefore, the appeal is

dismissed, and the final sentence of death pronounced.

It seems that this verdict was submitted on the 24th of May by the

President of the Supreme Court to the consideration of his Holiness the

Pope, who offered no objection to its execution. The prisoner's last

chance was now gone, but, with a cruel mercy, he was left to linger on

for eight months more in uncertainty. It was only on the 3rd of January,

1860, that orders were sent from Rome to Perugia, for the execution to

take place there instead of at Cannara, on the 13th. On that day the

verdict of the court is conveyed to the unhappy wretch. On the 14th, so

the last paragraph informs us, "The condemned" Luigi Bonci "was beheaded

by the public executioner, in the market-place of Perugia, and his head

was there exposed for an hour to the gaze of the assembled multitude."

On the 18th the report, from which these facts are taken, was placarded

on the walls of Rome. The murder is committed in November, 1856; the

murderer is arrested on the night of the crime; for that crime he is not

tried at all till May, 1858; his final trial does not come off till May,

1859, and his execution is deferred till January, 1860. For three years

and a quarter after the commission of the murder no report is published.

These facts need no comment.

CHAPTER V.--continued. THE "UGOLINI" MURDER.

Of late years, round and about Viterbo, there was a well-known character,

Giovanni Ugolini by name, a sort of itinerant "Jack-of-all-trades," who

wandered about from place to place, picking up any odd job he could find,

and begging when he could turn his hand to nothing else. He is described

in the legal reports as a Tinker and Umbrella-mender, but his especial

line of industry, novel to us at any rate, seems to have been that of a

scraper and cleaner of old tombstones. By these various pursuits, he

scraped together a good bit of money for a man in his position, and at

the end of his winter circuit, in the year 1857, he had saved up by

common report as much as 70 scudi, or about 14 pounds odd. On the 4th of

May in that year, Ugolini left the little town of Castel Giorgio, with

the avowed intention of going to Viterbo, to change his monies into

Tuscan coin. Being belated on his road, he resolved to stop over the

night at the house of a certain Andrea Volpi which lay on his road, and

where he had often slept before. On the following morning, about eight

o'clock, he left Volpi's house and went on his journey towards Viterbo.

Nothing more is positively known about him, except that on the same day

his body was found on a bye-path, a little off the direct Viterbo road,

covered with wounds. No money was discovered about his person, while

there was every indication of his clothes and pack having been rummaged

and rifled.

Assuming, as one must, the correctness of these facts, there can be no

doubt that a very brutal murder and robbery had been committed. For some

reasons, what, we are not told, the suspicions of the police fell at once

on one of Volpi's sons, called Serafino, a lad of about 22, and on a

friend of his, Bonaventura Starna, about two years older than himself.

Both of these persons, who were common labourers, were, in consequence,

arrested on the 7th of May. They were not tried, however, till the 27th

of April, in the year following, when they were arraigned for the murder

before the lay criminal and civil court of Viterbo.

The two prisoners, nevertheless, are not tried on the same charge. Volpi

is arraigned by the public prosecutor on a charge of wilful murder,

accompanied with treachery and robbery, while Starna is only brought to

trial as an accomplice to the crime, not as a principal. Before the

actual guilt of either prisoner is ascertained, the public prosecutor,

that is, the Government, decides the relative degree of their respective

hypothetical guilt. The justice of this proceeding may be questioned,

but its motive is palpable enough. There was little or no direct

evidence against the prisoners, and to convict either of them, it was

necessary to rely upon the testimony of the other.

"With both the prisoners," so runs the sentence of the court, "a criminal

motive could be established in the fact of their avowed poverty, as they

each clearly admitted, that neither they nor their families possessed

anything in the world, and that they derived the means of their miserable

sustenance from their daily labour alone." A very close intimacy was

proved to have existed between the prisoners, so much so, indeed, that

Starna had frequently been reproved by his parents for his friendship

with a man who stood in such ill repute as Volpi. The fact that the

murdered man was, or was believed to be in possession of money, was shown

to be well known amongst the Volpi family. Two of Serafino Volpi's

brothers were reported to have spoken to third parties of Ugolini's

savings, and one of them expressed a wish to rob him. Why this brother

was neither arrested nor apparently examined, is one of the many

mysteries, by the way, you come across in perusing these Papal reports.

Serafino too had mentioned himself, to a neighbour, his suspicion of the

tinker's having saved money. On the morning of the murder, Starna was

known to have come to the Volpi's cottage, to have talked with Serafino,

and to have left again in his company, shortly after Ugolini's departure.

After about an hour's absence, Serafino Volpi returned home, and

therefore had time enough to commit the murder. He was shown, moreover,

to have been in possession of a knife, about which he could give no

satisfactory account, and which might have inflicted the wounds found on

the corpse.

These appear to have been all the facts which could be established

against either Volpi or Starna by positive evidence, and, at the worst,

such facts could only be said to constitute a case for suspicion.

Previously, however, to the trial, Starna turned, what we should call,

"King's evidence," and, in contradiction to his foregoing statements,

made a confession, on which the prosecution practically rested the whole

of its case. According to this confession of Starna's, on the morning of

the murder he called by accident at the Volpi's, and stopped there, till

after the tinker, who was an entire stranger to him, had left the house.

Serafino Volpi then offered to accompany him to his (Starna's) house, on

the pretence of borrowing some tool or other. They walked quickly to

avoid the rain, which was falling heavily, and shortly overtook Ugolini,

who exchanged a few words with Volpi about the weather, and then turned

off along a bye-road. Thereupon Volpi proposed that they should follow

the old man and rob him, adding, "he has got a whole lot of coppers."

Starna, according to his own story, refused to have anything to do with

the matter; on which Volpi said, in that case he should do it alone, and

asked Starna to go and fetch the tool he wanted, and bring it to him

where they were standing. Starna then left Volpi running across the

fields to overtake the tinker, and went home to find the tool. In a very

short time afterwards, as he was coming back to the appointed meeting-

place, he met Volpi in a great state of agitation, who told him that the

job was finished, and Ugolini's throat cut, but that only 20 pauls' worth

of copper money, about eight shillings, were found upon him. Starna

admitted that he then took eight pauls as his own share in the booty, and

told Volpi to wash off some spots of blood visible on his sleeve. He

also added, that later on the same day he met Volpi again, and then

expressed his alarm at what had happened; on which he received the

answer, "If you had been with me, you would not be alive now."

One can hardly conceive a more suspicious story, or one more clearly

concocted to give the best colour to the witness's own conduct, at the

expense of his fellow-prisoner. No evidence whatever appears to have

been brought in support of this confession. The court, notwithstanding,

decides that the truth of this statement is fully established by internal

and external testimony, and therefore declares that the alleged crimes

are clearly proved against both the prisoners. "Considering,"

nevertheless, "that though Starna was an accomplice in the crime, from

his having assisted Volpi, and from having, by his own confession, shared

in the booty, yet that his guilt was less, both in the conception and in

the perpetration of the crime, there being no proof that he had taken any

active part in the murder of Ugolini," therefore, "in the most holy name

of God," the court sentences Volpi to public execution, and Starna to

twenty years at the galleys.

Of course, both the prisoners resorted to their invariable right of

appeal, but their case did not come on before the lower court of the

Supreme Clerical Tribunal at Rome for upwards of a year, namely, on the

17th of May, 1859. At this trial, no new facts whatever appear to have

been adduced. I gather indistinctly, that Volpi's defence was that he

had not left his father's house at all on the morning of the murder, but

that his attempt to prove an "alibi" was unsuccessful. The chief object

indeed of the very lengthy sentence of the court, recapitulating the

evidence already stated, is to establish the comparative innocence of

Starna, who, for some cause or other, seems to have been favourably

regarded. We are told, that "the confession of Starna is confirmed by a

thousand proofs;" that "it is clearly shown" that Starna "in this

confession did not deny his own responsibility; a fact which gives his

statement the character of an incriminative and not of an exonerative

confession; and that though he might possibly have wished, in his

statement of the facts, to modify and extenuate his own share in the

crime, yet there was no reason to suspect that he wished gratuitously to

aggravate the guilt of his comrade;" and that also taking into

consideration the villainous character of Volpi, it cannot be doubted,

that he was the principal in the crime. The court at Viterbo had decided

that the crime of the prisoners was murder, coupled with robbery and

treachery. The Court of Appeal decides, on what seem sufficient grounds,

that there is no proof of treachery, and therefore, the crime not being

of so heinous a character, reduces the period of Starna's punishment from

twenty to fifteen years, while it simply confirms the sentence of death

on Volpi.

Again, as a matter of course, there is an appeal from this sentence to

the upper court of the Supreme Tribunal, which appeal comes off after

four months' delay, on the 9th of September, 1859. The only ground of

appeal brought forward is one which, according to our notions of law,

should have been brought forward from the first, namely, that the guilt

of Volpi is not adequately proved by the unsupported statement of his

accomplice Starna, and "that the evidence which corroborates this

statement, only constitutes an _a priori_ probability of his guilt." The

court, however, dismisses this plea at once, on the ground that it is not

competent to take cognizance of an argument based on the abstract merits

of the case, and therefore confirms the verdict.

On the 25th of November the sentence is submitted to, and approved by,

the Pope. On the 3rd of January, 1860, orders are issued from Rome for

the execution to take place. On the 17th the authorities of Viterbo

notify to the prisoner that his last appeal has been dismissed, and "call

on the military to lend their support to the execution of the sentence,"

and on the following day, two years and eight months after his arrest,

Volpi is executed for the murder of Ugolini on the Piazza della Rocca at

Viterbo. On that day, too, appears the first report of his crime and

trial.

CHAPTER V.--continued. THE "AVANZI" MURDER.

In July, 1859, there were in the Bagnio of Civita Vecchia two galley

slaves, Antonio Simonetti and Domenico Avanzi. Simonetti was a man of

thirty, whose life, short as it was, seemed to have been one long career

of crime. He had enlisted at an early age in the Pontifical dragoons,

and served for seven years; on leaving the army, he became a porter, and

within a few months was guilty of a highway robbery, and sentenced to the

galleys for life, then to five years' hard labour for theft, and again to

seven years at the galleys for an attempt to escape, though how the last

punishment could be super-added to the first, is a fact I cannot hope to

explain. Of Avanzi nothing is mentioned, except that he was an elderly

man condemned to a lengthened term of imprisonment for heavy crimes.

Prisoners, it seems, condemned for long periods, are not sent out of

doors to labour at the public works, but are employed within the prison.

Both Simonetti and Avanzi were set to work in the canvas factory, and

according to a system adopted in many foreign gaols, they received a

certain amount of pay for their labour. An agreement had been made

between the pair, that one should twist and the other spin the hemp; and

the price paid for their joint work was to be divided between them in

certain proportions. About a fortnight before the murder this sort of

partnership was dissolved at the proposal of Simonetti, and some days

after Avanzi made a claim on his late partner for the price of two pounds

of hemp not accounted for. There seems to have been no particular

dispute about this, but on the morning of the murder, Simonetti was

summoned before the overseer of the factory, on the ground of his refusal

to pay the sum claimed by Avanzi of fifteen baiocchi, or seven pence

halfpenny. Simonetti did not deny that Avanzi had some claim upon him,

but disputed the amount. At last, the overseer proposed, as an amicable

compromise, that Simonetti should pay down seven baiocchi as a settlement

in full, sooner than have a formal investigation. Both parties adopted

the suggestion readily, and returned to their work apparently satisfied.

An hour and a half after, while Avanzi was sitting at his frame, with his

face to the wall, Simonetti entered the room with an axe he had picked up

in the carpenter's store, and walking deliberately up to Avanzi, struck

him with the axe across the neck, as he was stooping down. Almost

immediate death ensued, and on the arrival of the guard, Simonetti was

arrested at once, and placed in irons. Probably, as a matter of policy,

so daring a crime required summary punishment; at any rate, Papal justice

seems to have been executed with unexampled promptitude. With what the

report justly calls "laudable celerity," the case was got ready for trial

in a week, and on the 30th of July, the civil and criminal court of

Civita Vecchia met to try the prisoner. There could be no conceivable

question about the case. The murder had been committed during broad

daylight, in a crowded room, and indeed, the prisoner confessed his

guilt, and only pleaded gross provocation as an excuse. There was no

proof, however, that Avanzi had used irritating language; and even if he

had, too long a time had elapsed between the supposed offence and the

revenge taken, for the excuse of provocation to hold good. Indeed, as

the sentence of the court argues, in somewhat pompous language, "Woe to

civil intercourse and human society, if, contrary to every principle of

reason and justice, an attempt to enforce one's just and legal rights by

honest means, were once admitted as an extenuating circumstance in the

darkest crimes, or as a sufficient cause for exciting pardonable

provocation in the hearts of criminals." The tribunal too considers,

that the crime of the prisoner was aggravated by the fact, that his mind

remained unimpressed "by the horrors of his residence, or the dreadful

aspect and sad fellowship of his thousand unfortunate companions in

guilt, or by the flagrant penalties imposed upon him, for so many

crimes." On all these grounds, whether abstract or matter-of-fact, the

court declares the prisoner guilty of the wilful murder of Avanzi, and

sentences him to death.

On the morrow this sentence is conveyed to Simonetti, who appeals. With

considerable expedition the Supreme Tribunal meet to hear the case on the

23rd of September. The prisoner alleged before this court that his

indignation had been excited by improper proposals made to him by the

murdered man, and it was on this account their partnership had been

dissolved. Besides certain inherent improbabilities in this story, the

court decides that it was incredible that, if true, Simonetti should not

have made the statement at his previous trial. The appeal was therefore

dismissed, and the sentence of death confirmed. This decision was

notified to the prisoner on the 18th of November, who again appeals to

the higher Court, which meets to try the appeal on the 29th of the same

month. This court at once decided that there was no ground for supposing

the crime was not committed with "malice prepense," or for modifying the

verdict. It is not stated when the sentence was submitted to the Pope,

but on the 20th of January, 1860, the rejection of his final appeal is

communicated to the prisoner, and on the 21st the execution takes place,

and the report is published.

Now, if I had wished solely to decry the Papal system of justice, I

should not have given the report of the last trial, which seems to me far

the most favourable specimen of the set I have come across. I am

inclined to believe, from the meagre narratives before me, that all the

criminals whose cases I have narrated were guilty of the crimes alleged

against them, and fully deserved the fate they met with. My object,

however, has been to point out certain features which must, I think,

force themselves on any one who has read these cases carefully. The

disregard for human life, the abject poverty, the wide-spread

demoralization in the rural districts indicated by these stories, are

startling facts in a country which has been for centuries ruled by the

vicegerents of Christ on earth. At the same time, the great protraction

of the trials and the utter uncertainty about the date of their

occurrence, the unsatisfactory nature of the evidence, the want of any

cross-examination, the manner in which strict law is disregarded from a

clerical view of justice, and the identity between the court and the

prosecution, the abuse of the unlimited power of appeal, and the extent

to which this appeal from a lay to a clerical court places justice

virtually in the hands of the priesthood; and finally, the secret and

private character of the whole investigation, coupled with the utter

absence of any check on injustice through publicity, are all matters

patent even to a casual observer. If such, I ask, is Papal justice, when

it has no reason for concealment and has right upon its side, what would

it be in a case where injustice was sought to be perpetrated and

concealed?

CHAPTER V.--continued. THE "SANTURRI" MURDER.

Some months after I had written the question which closes the last

chapter, I was fortunate enough to obtain a partial answer to it. During

the present year the Cavaliere Gennarelli, a Roman barrister, and a

member of the Roman parliament in 1848, has published a series of

official documents issued by the Papal authorities during the last ten

years; the most damning indictment, by the way, that was ever recorded

against a Government. Amongst those documents there appears the official

sentence which, as usual, was published after the execution of a certain

Romulo Salvatori in 1851. The trial possesses a peculiar momentary

interest from the fact that Garibaldi is one of the persons implicated in

the charge, and that the gallant general, if captured on Roman territory,

would be liable to the judgment passed on him in default. It is,

however, rather with a view to show how the Papal system of justice

works, when political bias comes into play, that I propose to narrate

this story as a sequel to the others. The words between inverted commas

are, as before, verbal translations from the sentence. From that

sentence I have endeavoured to extract first the modicum of facts which

seem to have been admitted without dispute.

During the death-struggle of the Roman Republic, when the Neapolitan

troops had entered the Papal territory on their fruitless crusade, the

country round Velletri was occupied by Garibaldi's soldiery. Near

Velletri there is a little town called Giulianello, of which a certain

Don Dominico Santurri was the head priest. Justly or unjustly, this

priest, and two inhabitants of the town, named De Angelis and Latini,

were accused of plotting against the Republic; arrested by order of one

of Garibaldi's officers; imprisoned for a couple of days, and, after a

military examination (though of what nature is a matter of dispute) found

guilty of treason against the state. The priest was sentenced to death

and shot at once; the other two prisoners were dismissed with a reproof.

Subsequently orders were issued for their re-arrest. One of them,

Latini, had made his escape meanwhile; the other, De Angelis, being less

fortunate, was arrested again and executed.

Now, how far these persons were really guilty or not of the offence for

which they suffered, I of course have no means of knowing. Common sense

tells one that a nation, fighting for dear life against foes abroad and

traitors within, is obliged to deal out very rough and summary justice,

and can hardly be expected to waste much time in deliberation. At any

rate, when the Papal authority was restored, the Pope, on the demand of

the French, declared a general amnesty for all political offences. This

promise, however, of an amnesty, like many other promises of Pius the

Ninth, was made with a mental reservation. The Pope pardoned all

political offenders, but then the Pope alone was the judge of what

constituted a political offence.

In accordance with this system the execution of Santurri and De Angelis

was decided not to have been a political offence, but a case of private

vengeance, and "the indignation of the public was so strong," that

Government could not refuse the imperative call for justice. Within a

few weeks, therefore, of the Papal restoration, seven inhabitants of

Giulianello were arrested on the charge of being concerned in the murders

of Santurri and De Angelis.

On the 4th of April, 1851, the Supreme Court of the Sacra Consulta met to

try the prisoners--nearly two years after the date of their arrest. The

court, as usual, was composed of six high dignitaries of the Church, and

throughout the mode of procedure differed in nothing that I can learn

from what I have described in the former trials, except that there is no

allusion to any preliminary trial before the ordinary lay courts. Whether

this omission is accidental, or whether, as in other instances during the

Papal "Vendetta" after '49, the ordinary forms of justice were dispensed

with, I cannot say. Garibaldi, De Pasqualis, and David, "self-styled"

General, Colonel, and auditor respectively of the Roman army, were

summoned to appear and answer to the charge against them, or else to

allow judgment to go by default. The prisoners actually before the bar

were

Romolo Salvatori,

Vincenzo Fenili,

Luigi Grassi,

Francesco Fanella,

Dominico Federici,

Angelo Gabrielli,

Teresa Fenili.

It is curious, to say the least, that all the prisoners appear to have

been leading members of the liberal party at Giulianello. Salvatori was

elected Mayor of the town during the Republic, and the next four

prisoners held the office there of "Anziani" at the same period, an

office which corresponds somewhat to that of Alderman in our old civic

days. The chief witnesses for the prosecution were Latini, who so

narrowly escaped execution, and the widow of De Angelis, persons not

likely to be the most impartial of witnesses.

The whole sentence is in fact one long "ex parte" indictment against

Salvatori. The very language of the sentence confesses openly the

partizanship of the court. I am told that, in May 1849, "The Republican

hordes commanded by the adventurer Garibaldi, after the battle with"

(defeat of?) "the Royal Neapolitan troops at Velletri, had occupied a

precarious position in the neighbouring towns," and a good number of

these troops were stationed at Valmontone, under the command of the so-

called Colonel De Pasqualis; that at this period, when "an accusation

sent to the commanders of these freebooters was sufficient to ruin every

honest citizen," Salvatori, in order to gratify his private animosity

against Santurri, De Angelis, and Latini, forwarded to De Pasqualis an

unfounded accusation against them of intriguing for the overthrow of the

Republic; and in order to give it a "colour of probability," induced the

above-named Anziani to sign it; and that, in order to accomplish his

impious design, he wrote a private letter to De Pasqualis, telling him

how the arrest of the accused might be effected. Again, I learn that a

search, instituted by Salvatori into the priest Santurri's papers,

produced no "evidence favourable to his infamous purpose," that the

accused were never examined, though "a certain David, who pretended to be

a military auditor, made a few vague inquiries of Santurri, and noted the

answers down on paper with a pencil." Then we have a queer story how,

when Santurri implored for mercy, David replied, "Priests may pardon, but

Garibaldi never," though the very next minute David is represented as

announcing to De Angelis and Latini, that Garibaldi had granted them

their pardon. Then I am informed that Salvatori used insulting language

to Santurri on his arrest; that it was solely owing to Salvatori's

remonstrances that orders were issued for the re-arrest of Latini and De

Angelis; and that though Salvatori ultimately, at the prayer of De

Angelis' wife, gave her a letter to De Pasqualis interceding for her

husband, yet he purposely delayed granting it till he knew it would be

too late.

Such are the heads of the long string of accusations against Salvatori,

of which practically the sentence is composed. The evidence, as far as

it is given in the sentence on which the accusations rest, is vague in

the extreme. The proof of any personal ill-will against the three

victims of the Republic, on the part of any of the prisoners, is most

insufficient. Salvatori is said to have had an old grudge against

Santurri, about some wood belonging to the Church, to which he had made

an unjust claim. De Angelis was stated to have once threatened to shoot

Salvatori; but this, even in Ireland, could hardly be construed into

evidence that therefore Salvatori was resolved to murder De Angelis. The

only ground of ill-will that can be suggested, as far as Latini is

concerned, is that he was a partizan of the priesthood. The act of

accusation against Santurri and his fellow-victims, forwarded by the

authorities of Giulianello, though essential to the due comprehension of

the story, is not forthcoming; and no explanation even is offered of the

motives which induced the four "Anziani" to sign a charge which, by the

Papal hypothesis, they knew to be utterly unfounded. The bare idea, that

Santurri or the others were really guilty of any intrigues against the

Republic, is treated as absurd; the fact that any trial or investigation

ever took place is slurred over; and yet, with a marvellous

inconsistency, Salvatori is accused of being in reality the guilty author

of these executions, because some witness--name not given--reports that

he heard a report from a servant of Garibaldi, that Santurri was only

executed, in opposition to Garibaldi's own wish, in consequence of

Salvatori's representations.

What was the nature of Salvatori's defence cannot be gathered from the

sentence. From another source, however, I learn that it was such as one

might naturally expect. During 1849, the mayors of the small country

towns were entrusted with political authority by the Government. In the

exercise of his duty, as mayor, Salvatori discovered that Santurri and

the others were in correspondence with the Neapolitans, who were then

invading the country, and reported the charge to the officer in command.

The result of a military perquisition was to establish convincing proof

of the charge of treason. Santurri was tried by a court martial, and

sentenced at once to execution; as were also his colleagues, on further

evidence of guilt being discovered. Salvatori, therefore, pleaded, that

his sole offence, if offence there was, consisted in having discharged

his duty as an official of the Republican Government, and that this

offence was condoned by the Papal amnesty. This defence, as being

somewhat difficult to answer, is purposely ignored; and a printed notice,

published on the day of Santurri's execution, and giving an account of

his trial and conviction, is rejected as evidence, because it is not

official!

Considering the tone of the sentence it will not be matter of surprise,

that the court sums up with the conclusion, that "Not the slightest doubt

can be entertained that the wilful calumnies and solicitations of the

prisoner Salvatori were the sole and the too efficacious causes of the

result he had deliberately purposed to himself" (namely, the murder of

Santurri); and therefore unanimously condemns him to public execution at

Anagni. Vincenzo Fenili and Grassi, who had co-operated in the arrest of

Santurri, are sentenced to 20 years' labour on the hulks. There not

being sufficient evidence to convict Fanella, Federici, and Teresa

Fenili, they are to be--not acquitted, but kept in prison for six months

more, while Gabrielli, whose only offence was, that he told Salvatori

where the priest Santurri was to be found, though without any evil

motive, is to be released provisionally, having been, by the way,

imprisoned already for 18 months, while Garibaldi and De Pasqualis are to

be proceeded against in default.

Salvatori was executed on the 10th of September, 1851; Fenili and Grassi

are probably, being both men in the prime of life, still alive and

labouring in the Bagnio of Civita Vecchia, where, at their leisure, they

can appreciate the mercies of a Papal amnesty. It seems to me that I

should have called this chapter the Salvatori rather than the Santurri

murder, and then the question asked at the end of the last would have

required no answer.

Rome in 1860 · 第 1 / 14 章