MY SECOND RETURN TO CHINA
The machinery was not finished till the early spring of 1865. It was
shipped direct from New York to Shanghai, China; while it was doubling
the Cape of Good Hope on its way to the East, I took passage in another
direction, back to China. I wanted to encircle the globe once in my
life, and this was my opportunity. I could say after that, that I had
circumnavigated the globe. So I planned to go back by way of San
Francisco. In order to do that, I had to take into consideration the
fact that the Union Pacific from Chicago to San Francisco via Omaha was
not completed, nor was any steamship line subsidized by the United
States government to cross the Pacific from San Francisco to any
seaport, either in Japan or China at the time. On that account I was
obliged to take a circuitous route, by taking a coast steamer from New
York to Panama, cross the Isthmus, and from there take passage in
another coast steamer up the Mexican coast to San Francisco, Cal.
At San Francisco, I was detained two weeks where I had to wait for a
vessel to bridge me over the broad Pacific, either to Yokohama or
Shanghai. At that time, as there was no other vessel advertised to sail
for the East, I was compelled to take passage on board the “Ida de
Rogers,” a Nantucket bark. There were six passengers, including myself.
We had to pay $500 each for passage from San Francisco to Yokohama. The
crew consisted of the captain, who had with him his wife, and a little
boy six years old, a mate, three sailors and a cook, a Chinese boy. The
“Ida de Rogers” was owned by Captain Norton who hailed from Nantucket.
She was about one hundred and fifty feet long--an old tub at that. She
carried no cargo and little or no ballast, except bilge-water, which may
have come from Nantucket, for aught I know. The skipper, true to the
point of the country where they produce crops of seamen of microscopic
ideas, was found to be not at all deficient in his close calculations of
how to shave closely in every bargain and, in fact, in everything in
life. In this instance, we had ample opportunity to find out under whom
we were sailing. Before we were fairly out of the “Golden Gate,” we were
treated every day with salted mackerel, which I took to be the daily
and fashionable dish of Nantucket. The cook we had made matters worse,
as he did not seem to know his business and was no doubt picked up in
San Francisco just to fill the vacancy. The mackerel was cooked and
brought on the table without being freshened, and the Indian meal cakes
that were served with it, were but half baked, so that day after day we
practically all left the table disgusted and half starved. Not only was
the food bad and unhealthy, but the skipper’s family was of a very low
type. The skipper himself was a most profane man, and although I never
heard the wife swear, yet she seemed to enjoy her husband’s oaths. Their
little boy who was not more than six years old, seemed to have surpassed
the father in profanity. It may be said that the young scamp had
mastered his shorter and longer catechism of profanity completely, for
he was not wanting in expressions of the most disgusting and repulsive
kind, as taught him by his sire, yet his parents sat listening to him
with evident satisfaction, glancing around at the passengers to catch
their approval. One of the passengers, an Englishman, who stood near
listening and smoking his pipe, only remarked ironically, “You have a
smart boy there.” At this the skipper nodded, while the mother seemed
to gloat over her young hopeful. Such a scene was of daily occurrence,
and one that we could not escape, since we were cooped up in such narrow
quarters on account of the smallness of the vessel. There was not even a
five-foot deck where one could stretch his legs. We were most of the
time shut up in the dining room, as it was the coolest spot we could
find. Before our voyage was half over, we had occasion to land at one of
the most northerly islands of the Hawaiian group for fresh water and
provisions. While the vessel was being victualed, all the passengers
landed and went out to the country to take a stroll, which was a great
relief. We were gone nearly all day. We all re-embarked early in the
evening. It seemed that the captain had filled the forward hold with
chickens and young turkeys. We congratulated ourselves that the skipper
after all had swung round to show a generous streak, which had only
needed an opportunity to show itself, and that for the rest of the
voyage he was no doubt going to feed us on fresh chickens and turkeys to
make up for the salted mackerel, which might have given us the scurvy
had we continued on the same diet. For the first day or so, after we
resumed our voyage, we had chicken and fish for our breakfast and
dinners, but that was the last we saw of the fresh provisions. We saw no
turkey on the table. On making inquiry, the cook told us that both the
chickens and the turkeys were bought, not for our table, but for
speculation, to be sold on arrival in Yokohama. Unfortunately for the
skipper, the chickens and turkeys for want of proper food and fresh air,
had died a few days before our arrival at the port.
Immediately upon reaching Yokohama, I took passage in a P. & O. steamer
for Shanghai.
On my arrival there, I found the machinery had all arrived a month
before; it had all been delivered in good condition and perfect working
order. I had been absent from China a little over a year. During that
time Viceroy Tsang Kwoh Fan, with the co-operation of his brother, Tsang
Kwoh Chuen, succeeded in the capture of Nanking, which put an end to the
great Taiping Rebellion of 1850.
On my arrival in Shanghai, I found that the Viceroy had gone up to Chu
Chow, the most northerly department of Kiangsu province, close to the
border line of Shan Tung, and situated on the canal. He made that his
headquarters in superintending the subjugation of the Nienfi or Anwhui
rebels, against whom Li Hung Chang had been appointed as his lieutenant
in the field. I was requested to go up to Chu Chow to make a report in
person regarding the purchase of the machinery.
On my journey to Chu Chow, I was accompanied by my old friend Wha Yuh
Ting part of the way. We went by the Grand Canal from Sinu-Mew at the
Yangtze up as far as Yang Chow, the great entrepôt for the Government
Salt Monopoly. There we took mule carts overland to Chu Chow. We were
three days on our journey. Chu Chow is a departmental city and here, as
stated before, Viceroy Tsang made his quarters. I was there three days.
The Viceroy complimented me highly for what I had done. He made my late
commission to the States to purchase machinery the subject of a special
memorial to the government. Such a special memorial on any political
event invariably gives it political prominence and weight, and in order
to lift me at once from a position of no importance to a territorial
civil appointment of the bona fide fifth rank, was a step seldom asked
for or conceded. He made out my case to be an exceptional one, and the
following is the language he used in his memorial:
“Yung Wing is a foreign educated Chinese. He has mastered the English
language. In his journey over thousands of miles of ocean to the extreme
ends of the earth to fulfill the commission I entrusted to him, he was
utterly oblivious to difficulties and dangers that lay in his way. In
this respect even the missions of the Ancients present no parallel equal
to his. Therefore, I would recommend that he be promoted to the
expectancy of one of the Kiangsu subprefects, and he is entitled to fill
the first vacancy presenting itself, in recognition of his valuable
services.”
His secretary, who drew up the memorial at his dictation, gave me a copy
of the memorial before I left Chu Chow for Shanghai, and congratulated
me on the great honor the Viceroy had conferred on me. I thanked the
Viceroy before bidding him good-bye, and expressed the hope that my
actions in the future would justify his high opinion of me.
In less than two months after leaving him, an official document from the
Viceroy reached me in Shanghai, and in October, 1865, I was a
full-fledged mandarin of the fifth rank. While waiting as an expectant
subprefect, I was retained by the provincial authorities as a government
interpreter and translator. My salary was $250 per month. No other
expectant official of the province--not even an expectant Taotai (an
official of the fourth rank)--could command such a salary.
Ting Yih Chang was at the time Taotai of Shanghai. He and I became great
friends. He rose rapidly in official rank and became successively salt
commissioner, provincial treasurer and Taotai or governor of Kiang Nan.
Through him, I also rose in official rank and was decorated with the
peacock’s feather. While Ting Yih Chang was salt commissioner, I
accompanied him to Yang Chow and was engaged in translating Colton’s
geography into Chinese, for about six months. I then returned to
Shanghai to resume my position as government interpreter and translator.
I had plenty of time on my hands. I took to translating “Parsons on
Contracts,” which I thought might be useful to the Chinese. In this work
I was fortunate in securing the services of a Chinese scholar to help
me. I found him well versed in mathematics and in all Chinese official
business, besides being a fine Chinese scholar and writer. He finally
persuaded me not to continue the translation, as there was some doubt as
to whether such a work, even when finished, would be in demand, because
the Chinese courts are seldom troubled with litigations on contracts,
and in all cases of violation of contracts, the Chinese code is used.
In 1867, Viceroy Tsang Kwoh Fan, with Li Hung Chang’s co-operation,
succeeded in ending the Nienfi rebellion, and came to Nanking to fill
his viceroyalty of the two Kiangs.
Before taking up his position as viceroy of the Kiangs permanently, he
took a tour of inspection through his jurisdiction and one of the
important places he visited was Shanghai and the Kiang Nan Arsenal--an
establishment of his own creation. He went through the arsenal with
undisguised interest. I pointed out to him the machinery which I bought
for him in America. He stood and watched its automatic movement with
unabated delight, for this was the first time he had seen machinery, and
how it worked. It was during this visit that I succeeded in persuading
him to have a mechanical school annexed to the arsenal, in which Chinese
youths might be taught the theory as well as the practice of mechanical
engineering, and thus enable China in time to dispense with the
employment of foreign mechanical engineers and machinists, and to be
perfectly independent. This at once appealed to the practical turn of
the Chinese mind, and the school was finally added to the arsenal. They
are doubtless turning out at the present time both mechanical engineers
and machinists of all descriptions.