THIS is not only the most mountainous and picturesque of the six northern
shires of Wales, but retains more distinct characteristics of a peculiar
people, and greater primitiveness of customs and manners than any of the
remaining counties. Here the Cambrian Alps are seen in all the dignity
and sublimity attached to space restricted only by the grand natural
boundaries of mountain, lake, wood, and river. The district included
between the mountains and the sea, as well as the whole promontory of
Lleyn, consists of fertile land, enjoys an agreeable and cheerful aspect,
and is adorned with the seats of many wealthy landed proprietors. From
the highest part of this inclining plain, a surface, possessing an
endless variety of form, swells with inconceivable rapidity, nor ceases
until it attains the vast height of three thousand seven hundred and
fifty-nine feet above the sea in its ambitious throws. This point,
called “Y Wyddffa,” the Conspicuous, is the summit of Snowdon, and the
loftiest pinnacle in ancient Britain. Two neighbouring rivals, Carneddau
David and Llewellyn, seem to dispute the lofty throne, and reach within a
hundred feet of the ancient Cairn which crowns the hoary head of the
great monarch of Snowdonia. The greatest length of Caernarvonshire, i.e.
in a direction north and south, is forty-five miles, and its mean average
breadth about twenty. It is watered by several rivers, whose rocky beds
abound in noble cataracts, as well as in scenery of the most delicate and
fascinating character. The Conway is probably the richest in each kind
of subject; the Llugwy, Lledder, and Ogwen, preserve their bold romantic
natures until their noisy spirits are “deep in the bosom of the ocean
buried.” Perhaps the placid lakes, notwithstanding the noiseless tenor
of their lives, may find more worshippers than even the Conway’s majestic
tide. Llynnyau Gwynant and Crafuant are the most graceful, perfect
compositions; Llynnyau Ogwen and Idwel the most sublime.
[Picture: Caernarvon Castle; Snowdon; Bangor Cathedral. London.
Published by T. T. & J. Tegg, Cheapside, Oct. 1st 1832]
The mountainous unequal surface of this county has not militated against
the introduction of new and admirable lines of road. It is probable that
the facility of obtaining a very durable stone, at the cost of removal
only, has encouraged the construction of the most beautiful and
interesting public avenues in the kingdom. The Holyhead commissioners
have carried the British Simplon through the flinty rocks of Ogwen and
along the wind-swept valley of Francòn. The county engineers have
diminished the terrors of Penmaen Mawr by descending from the beetling
cliff to a judicious and secure path along the margin of the sea; and the
new road through the pass of Llanberis has rendered these scenes of
“pleasing horror” accessible to the most timid and nervous, who are
frequently the best and truest appreciators of such mysterious and
sublime formations.