Another, that

—“all the world’s a stage,

And all the men and women merely players.”

The world is a strange place for a playhouse to stand within it. Old

Drayton thought that a man that lived here, and would be a poet, for

instance, should have in him certain “brave, translunary things,” and a

“fine madness” should possess his brain. Certainly it were as well,

that he might be up to the occasion. That is a superfluous wonder,

which Dr. Johnson expresses at the assertion of Sir Thomas Browne that

“his life has been a miracle of thirty years, which to relate, were not

history but a piece of poetry, and would sound like a fable.” The

wonder is, rather, that all men do not assert as much. That would be a

rare praise, if it were true, which was addressed to Francis

Beaumont,—“Spectators sate part in your tragedies.”

Think what a mean and wretched place this world is; that half the time

we have to light a lamp that we may see to live in it. This is half our

life. Who would undertake the enterprise if it were all? And, pray,

what more has day to offer? A lamp that burns more clear, a purer oil,

say winter-strained, that so we may pursue our idleness with less

obstruction. Bribed with a little sunlight and a few prismatic tints,

we bless our Maker, and stave off his wrath with hymns.

I make ye an offer,

Ye gods, hear the scoffer,

The scheme will not hurt you,

If ye will find goodness, I will find virtue.

Though I am your creature,

And child of your nature,

I have pride still unbended,

And blood undescended,

Some free independence,

And my own descendants.

I cannot toil blindly,

Though ye behave kindly,

And I swear by the rood,

I’ll be slave to no God.

If ye will deal plainly,

I will strive mainly,

If ye will discover,

Great plans to your lover,

And give him a sphere

Somewhat larger than here.

“Verily, my angels! I was abashed on account of my servant, who had no

Providence but me; therefore did I pardon him.”—_The Gulistan of Sadi._

Most people with whom I talk, men and women even of some originality

and genius, have their scheme of the universe all cut and dried,—very

_dry_, I assure you, to hear, dry enough to burn, dry-rotted and

powder-post, methinks,—which they set up between you and them in the

shortest intercourse; an ancient and tottering frame with all its

boards blown off. They do not walk without their bed. Some, to me,

seemingly very unimportant and unsubstantial things and relations, are

for them everlastingly settled,—as Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, and the

like. These are like the everlasting hills to them. But in all my

wanderings I never came across the least vestige of authority for these

things. They have not left so distinct a trace as the delicate flower

of a remote geological period on the coal in my grate. The wisest man

preaches no doctrines; he has no scheme; he sees no rafter, not even a

cobweb, against the heavens. It is clear sky. If I ever see more

clearly at one time than at another, the medium through which I see is

clearer. To see from earth to heaven, and see there standing, still a

fixture, that old Jewish scheme! What right have you to hold up this

obstacle to my understanding you, to your understanding me! You did not

invent it; it was imposed on you. Examine your authority. Even Christ,

we fear, had his scheme, his conformity to tradition, which slightly

vitiates his teaching. He had not swallowed all formulas. He preached

some mere doctrines. As for me, Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob are now only

the subtilest imaginable essences, which would not stain the morning

sky. Your scheme must be the framework of the universe; all other

schemes will soon be ruins. The perfect God in his revelations of

himself has never got to the length of one such proposition as you, his

prophets, state. Have you learned the alphabet of heaven and can count

three? Do you know the number of God’s family? Can you put mysteries

into words? Do you presume to fable of the ineffable? Pray, what

geographer are you, that speak of heaven’s topography? Whose friend are

you that speak of God’s personality? Do you, Miles Howard, think that

he has made you his confidant? Tell me of the height of the mountains

of the moon, or of the diameter of space, and I may believe you, but of

the secret history of the Almighty, and I shall pronounce thee mad. Yet

we have a sort of family history of our God,—so have the Tahitians of

theirs,—and some old poet’s grand imagination is imposed on us as

adamantine everlasting truth, and God’s own word! Pythagoras says,

truly enough, “A true assertion respecting God, is an assertion of

God”; but we may well doubt if there is any example of this in

literature.

The New Testament is an invaluable book, though I confess to having

been slightly prejudiced against it in my very early days by the church

and the Sabbath school, so that it seemed, before I read it, to be the

yellowest book in the catalogue. Yet I early escaped from their meshes.

It was hard to get the commentaries out of one’s head and taste its

true flavor.—I think that Pilgrim’s Progress is the best sermon which

has been preached from this text; almost all other sermons that I have

heard, or heard of, have been but poor imitations of this.—It would be

a poor story to be prejudiced against the Life of Christ because the

book has been edited by Christians. In fact, I love this book rarely,

though it is a sort of castle in the air to me, which I am permitted to

dream. Having come to it so recently and freshly, it has the greater

charm, so that I cannot find any to talk with about it. I never read a

novel, they have so little real life and thought in them. The reading

which I love best is the scriptures of the several nations, though it

happens that I am better acquainted with those of the Hindoos, the

Chinese, and the Persians, than of the Hebrews, which I have come to

last. Give me one of these Bibles and you have silenced me for a while.

When I recover the use of my tongue, I am wont to worry my neighbors

with the new sentences; but commonly they cannot see that there is any

wit in them. Such has been my experience with the New Testament. I have

not yet got to the crucifixion, I have read it over so many times. I

should love dearly to read it aloud to my friends, some of whom are

seriously inclined; it is so good, and I am sure that they have never

heard it, it fits their case exactly, and we should enjoy it so much

together,—but I instinctively despair of getting their ears. They soon

show, by signs not to be mistaken, that it is inexpressibly wearisome

to them. I do not mean to imply that I am any better than my neighbors;

for, alas! I know that I am only as good, though I love better books

than they.

It is remarkable that, notwithstanding the universal favor with which

the New Testament is outwardly received, and even the bigotry with

which it is defended, there is no hospitality shown to, there is no

appreciation of, the order of truth with which it deals. I know of no

book that has so few readers. There is none so truly strange, and

heretical, and unpopular. To Christians, no less than Greeks and Jews,

it is foolishness and a stumbling-block. There are, indeed, severe

things in it which no man should read aloud more than once.—“Seek first

the kingdom of heaven.”—“Lay not up for yourselves treasures on

earth.”—“If thou wilt be perfect, go and sell that thou hast, and give

to the poor, and thou shalt have treasure in heaven.”—“For what is a

man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?

or what shall a man give in exchange for his soul?”—Think of this,

Yankees!—“Verily, I say unto you, if ye have faith as a grain of

mustard seed, ye shall say unto this mountain, Remove hence to yonder

place; and it shall remove; and nothing shall be impossible unto

you.”—Think of repeating these things to a New England audience!

thirdly, fourthly, fifteenthly, till there are three barrels of

sermons! Who, without cant, can read them aloud? Who, without cant, can

hear them, and not go out of the meeting-house? They never _were_ read,

they never _were_ heard. Let but one of these sentences be rightly

read, from any pulpit in the land, and there would not be left one

stone of that meeting-house upon another.

Yet the New Testament treats of man and man’s so-called spiritual

affairs too exclusively, and is too constantly moral and personal, to

alone content me, who am not interested solely in man’s religious or

moral nature, or in man even. I have not the most definite designs on

the future. Absolutely speaking, Do unto others as you would that they

should do unto you, is by no means a golden rule, but the best of

current silver. An honest man would have but little occasion for it. It

is golden not to have any rule at all in such a case. The book has

never been written which is to be accepted without any allowance.

Christ was a sublime actor on the stage of the world. He knew what he

was thinking of when he said, “Heaven and earth shall pass away, but my

words shall not pass away.” I draw near to him at such a time. Yet he

taught mankind but imperfectly how to live; his thoughts were all

directed toward another world. There is another kind of success than

his. Even here we have a sort of living to get, and must buffet it

somewhat longer. There are various tough problems yet to solve, and we

must make shift to live, betwixt spirit and matter, such a human life

as we can.

A healthy man, with steady employment, as wood-chopping at fifty cents

a cord, and a camp in the woods, will not be a good subject for

Christianity. The New Testament may be a choice book to him on some,

but not on all or most of his days. He will rather go a-fishing in his

leisure hours. The Apostles, though they were fishers too, were of the

solemn race of sea-fishers, and never trolled for pickerel on inland

streams.

Men have a singular desire to be good without being good for anything,

because, perchance, they think vaguely that so it will be good for them

in the end. The sort of morality which the priests inculcate is a very

subtle policy, far finer than the politicians, and the world is very

successfully ruled by them as the policemen. It is not worth the while

to let our imperfections disturb us always. The conscience really does

not, and ought not to monopolize the whole of our lives, any more than

the heart or the head. It is as liable to disease as any other part. I

have seen some whose consciences, owing undoubtedly to former

indulgence, had grown to be as irritable as spoilt children, and at

length gave them no peace. They did not know when to swallow their cud,

and their lives of course yielded no milk.

Conscience is instinct bred in the house,

Feeling and Thinking propagate the sin

By an unnatural breeding in and in.

I say, Turn it out doors,

Into the moors.

I love a life whose plot is simple,

And does not thicken with every pimple,

A soul so sound no sickly conscience binds it,

That makes the universe no worse than ’t finds it.

I love an earnest soul,

Whose mighty joy and sorrow

Are not drowned in a bowl,

And brought to life to-morrow;

That lives one tragedy,

And not seventy;

A conscience worth keeping,

Laughing not weeping;

A conscience wise and steady,

And forever ready;

Not changing with events,

Dealing in compliments;

A conscience exercised about

Large things, where one _may_ doubt.

I love a soul not all of wood,

Predestinated to be good,

But true to the backbone

Unto itself alone,

And false to none;

Born to its own affairs,

Its own joys and own cares;

By whom the work which God begun

Is finished, and not undone;

Taken up where he left off,

Whether to worship or to scoff;

If not good, why then evil,

If not good god, good devil.

Goodness!—you hypocrite, come out of that,

Live your life, do your work, then take your hat.

I have no patience towards

Such conscientious cowards.

Give me simple laboring folk,

Who love their work,

Whose virtue is a song

To cheer God along.

I was once reproved by a minister who was driving a poor beast to some

meeting-house horse-sheds among the hills of New Hampshire, because I

was bending my steps to a mountain-top on the Sabbath, instead of a

church, when I would have gone farther than he to hear a true word

spoken on that or any day. He declared that I was “breaking the Lord’s

fourth commandment,” and proceeded to enumerate, in a sepulchral tone,

the disasters which had befallen him whenever he had done any ordinary

work on the Sabbath. He really thought that a god was on the watch to

trip up those men who followed any secular work on this day, and did

not see that it was the evil conscience of the workers that did it. The

country is full of this superstition, so that when one enters a

village, the church, not only really but from association, is the

ugliest looking building in it, because it is the one in which human

nature stoops the lowest and is most disgraced. Certainly, such temples

as these shall erelong cease to deform the landscape. There are few

things more disheartening and disgusting than when you are walking the

streets of a strange village on the Sabbath, to hear a preacher

shouting like a boatswain in a gale of wind, and thus harshly profaning

the quiet atmosphere of the day. You fancy him to have taken off his

coat, as when men are about to do hot and dirty work.

If I should ask the minister of Middlesex to let me speak in his pulpit

on a Sunday, he would object, because I do not _pray_ as he does, or

because I am not _ordained_. What under the sun are these things?

Really, there is no infidelity, now-a-days, so great as that which

prays, and keeps the Sabbath, and rebuilds the churches. The sealer of

the South Pacific preaches a truer doctrine. The church is a sort of

hospital for men’s souls, and as full of quackery as the hospital for

their bodies. Those who are taken into it live like pensioners in their

Retreat or Sailor’s Sung Harbor, where you may see a row of religious

cripples sitting outside in sunny weather. Let not the apprehension

that he may one day have to occupy a ward therein, discourage the

cheerful labors of the able-souled man. While he remembers the sick in

their extremities, let him not look thither as to his goal. One is sick

at heart of this pagoda worship. It is like the beating of gongs in a

Hindoo subterranean temple. In dark places and dungeons the preacher’s

words might perhaps strike root and grow, but not in broad daylight in

any part of the world that I know. The sound of the Sabbath bell far

away, now breaking on these shores, does not awaken pleasing

associations, but melancholy and sombre ones rather. One involuntarily

rests on his oar, to humor his unusually meditative mood. It is as the

sound of many catechisms and religious books twanging a canting peal

round the earth, seeming to issue from some Egyptian temple and echo

along the shore of the Nile, right opposite to Pharaoh’s palace and

Moses in the bulrushes, startling a multitude of storks and alligators

basking in the sun.

Everywhere “good men” sound a retreat, and the word has gone forth to

fall back on innocence. Fall forward rather on to whatever there is

there. Christianity only hopes. It has hung its harp on the willows,

and cannot sing a song in a strange land. It has dreamed a sad dream,

and does not yet welcome the morning with joy. The mother tells her

falsehoods to her child, but, thank Heaven, the child does not grow up

in its parent’s shadow. Our mother’s faith has not grown with her

experience. Her experience has been too much for her. The lesson of

life was too hard for her to learn.

It is remarkable, that almost all speakers and writers feel it to be

incumbent on them, sooner or later, to prove or to acknowledge the

personality of God. Some Earl of Bridgewater, thinking it better late

than never, has provided for it in his will. It is a sad mistake. In

reading a work on agriculture, we have to skip the author’s moral

reflections, and the words “Providence” and “He” scattered along the

page, to come at the profitable level of what he has to say. What he

calls his religion is for the most part offensive to the nostrils. He

should know better than expose himself, and keep his foul sores covered

till they are quite healed. There is more religion in men’s science

than there is science in their religion. Let us make haste to the

report of the committee on swine.

A man’s real faith is never contained in his creed, nor is his creed an

article of his faith. The last is never adopted. This it is that

permits him to smile ever, and to live even as bravely as he does. And

yet he clings anxiously to his creed, as to a straw, thinking that that

does him good service because his sheet anchor does not drag.

In most men’s religion, the ligature, which should be its umbilical

cord connecting them with divinity, is rather like that thread which

the accomplices of Cylon held in their hands when they went abroad from

the temple of Minerva, the other end being attached to the statue of

the goddess. But frequently, as in their case, the thread breaks, being

stretched, and they are left without an asylum.

“A good and pious man reclined his head on the bosom of contemplation,

and was absorbed in the ocean of a revery. At the instant when he

awaked from his vision, one of his friends, by way of pleasantry, said,

What rare gift have you brought us from that garden, where you have

been recreating? He replied, I fancied to myself and said, when I can

reach the rose-bower, I will fill my lap with the flowers, and bring

them as a present to my friends; but when I got there, the fragrance of

the roses so intoxicated me, that the skirt dropped from my hands.——‘O

bird of dawn! learn the warmth of affection from the moth; for that

scorched creature gave up the ghost, and uttered not a groan: These

vain pretenders are ignorant of him they seek after; for of him that

knew him we never heard again:—O thou! who towerest above the flights

of conjecture, opinion, and comprehension; whatever has been reported

of thee we have heard and read; the congregation is dismissed, and life

drawn to a close; and we still rest at our first encomium of

thee!’”—_Sadi_.

By noon we were let down into the Merrimack through the locks at

Middlesex, just above Pawtucket Falls, by a serene and liberal-minded

man, who came quietly from his book, though his duties, we supposed,

did not require him to open the locks on Sundays. With him we had a

just and equal encounter of the eyes, as between two honest men.

The movements of the eyes express the perpetual and unconscious

courtesy of the parties. It is said, that a rogue does not look you in

the face, neither does an honest man look at you as if he had his

reputation to establish. I have seen some who did not know when to turn

aside their eyes in meeting yours. A truly confident and magnanimous

spirit is wiser than to contend for the mastery in such encounters.

Serpents alone conquer by the steadiness of their gaze. My friend looks

me in the face and sees me, that is all.

The best relations were at once established between us and this man,

and though few words were spoken, he could not conceal a visible

interest in us and our excursion. He was a lover of the higher

mathematics, as we found, and in the midst of some vast sunny problem,

when we overtook him and whispered our conjectures. By this man we were

presented with the freedom of the Merrimack. We now felt as if we were

fairly launched on the ocean-stream of our voyage, and were pleased to

find that our boat would float on Merrimack water. We began again

busily to put in practice those old arts of rowing, steering, and

paddling. It seemed a strange phenomenon to us that the two rivers

should mingle their waters so readily, since we had never associated

them in our thoughts.

As we glided over the broad bosom of the Merrimack, between Chelmsford

and Dracut, at noon, here a quarter of a mile wide, the rattling of our

oars was echoed over the water to those villages, and their slight

sounds to us. Their harbors lay as smooth and fairy-like as the Lido,

or Syracuse, or Rhodes, in our imagination, while, like some strange

roving craft, we flitted past what seemed the dwellings of noble

home-staying men, seemingly as conspicuous as if on an eminence, or

floating upon a tide which came up to those villagers’ breasts. At a

third of a mile over the water we heard distinctly some children

repeating their catechism in a cottage near the shore, while in the

broad shallows between, a herd of cows stood lashing their sides, and

waging war with the flies.

Two hundred years ago other catechizing than this was going on here;

for here came the Sachem Wannalancet, and his people, and sometimes

Tahatawan, our Concord Sachem, who afterwards had a church at home, to

catch fish at the falls; and here also came John Eliot, with the Bible

and Catechism, and Baxter’s Call to the Unconverted, and other tracts,

done into the Massachusetts tongue, and taught them Christianity

meanwhile. “This place,” says Gookin, referring to Wamesit,

“being an ancient and capital seat of Indians, they come to fish; and

this good man takes this opportunity to spread the net of the gospel,

to fish for their souls.”—“May 5th, 1674,” he continues, “according to

our usual custom, Mr. Eliot and myself took our journey to Wamesit, or

Pawtuckett; and arriving there that evening, Mr. Eliot preached to as

many of them as could be got together, out of Matt. xxii. 1-14, the

parable of the marriage of the king’s son. We met at the wigwam of one

called Wannalancet, about two miles from the town, near Pawtuckett

falls, and bordering upon Merrimak river. This person, Wannalancet, is

the eldest son of old Pasaconaway, the chiefest sachem of Pawtuckett.

He is a sober and grave person, and of years, between fifty and sixty.

He hath been always loving and friendly to the English.” As yet,

however, they had not prevailed on him to embrace the Christian

religion. “But at this time,” says Gookin, “May 6, 1674,”—“after some

deliberation and serious pause, he stood up, and made a speech to this

effect:—‘I must acknowledge I have, all my days, used to pass in an old

canoe, (alluding to his frequent custom to pass in a canoe upon the

river,) and now you exhort me to change and leave my old canoe, and

embark in a new canoe, to which I have hitherto been unwilling; but now

I yield up myself to your advice, and enter into a new canoe, and do

engage to pray to God hereafter.’” One “Mr. Richard Daniel, a gentleman

that lived in Billerica,” who with other “persons of quality” was

present, “desired brother Eliot to tell the sachem from him, that it

may be, while he went in his old canoe, he passed in a quiet stream;

but the end thereof was death and destruction to soul and body. But now

he went into a new canoe, perhaps he would meet with storms and trials,

but yet he should be encouraged to persevere, for the end of his voyage

would be everlasting rest.”—“Since that time, I hear this sachem doth

persevere, and is a constant and diligent hearer of God’s word, and

sanctifieth the Sabbath, though he doth travel to Wamesit meeting every

Sabbath, which is above two miles; and though sundry of his people have

deserted him, since he subjected to the gospel, yet he continues and

persists.”— _Gookin’s Hist. Coll. of the Indians in New England_, 1674.

Already, as appears from the records, “At a General Court held at

Boston in New England, the 7th of the first month,

1643-4.”—“Wassamequin, Nashoonon, Kutchamaquin, Massaconomet, and Squaw

Sachem, did voluntarily submit themselves” to the English; and among

other things did “promise to be willing from time to time to be

instructed in the knowledge of God.” Being asked “Not to do any

unnecessary work on the Sabbath day, especially within the gates of

Christian towns,” they answered, “It is easy to them; they have not

much to do on any day, and they can well take their rest on that

day.”—“So,” says Winthrop, in his Journal, “we causing them to

understand the articles, and all the ten commandments of God, and they

freely assenting to all, they were solemnly received, and then

presented the Court with twenty-six fathom more of wampom; and the

Court gave each of them a coat of two yards of cloth, and their dinner;

and to them and their men, every of them, a cup of sack at their

departure; so they took leave and went away.”

What journeyings on foot and on horseback through the wilderness, to

preach the Gospel to these minks and muskrats! who first, no doubt,

listened with their red ears out of a natural hospitality and courtesy,

and afterward from curiosity or even interest, till at length there

were “praying Indians,” and, as the General Court wrote to Cromwell,

the “work is brought to this perfection, that some of the Indians

themselves can pray and prophesy in a comfortable manner.”

It was in fact an old battle and hunting ground through which we had

been floating, the ancient dwelling-place of a race of hunters and

warriors. Their weirs of stone, their arrowheads and hatchets, their

pestles, and the mortars in which they pounded Indian corn before the

white man had tasted it, lay concealed in the mud of the river bottom.

Tradition still points out the spots where they took fish in the

greatest numbers, by such arts as they possessed. It is a rapid story

the historian will have to put together. Miantonimo,—Winthrop,—Webster.

Soon he comes from Montaup to Bunker Hill, from bear-skins, parched

corn, bows and arrows, to tiled roofs, wheat-fields, guns and swords.

Pawtucket and Wamesit, where the Indians resorted in the fishing

season, are now Lowell, the city of spindles and Manchester of America,

which sends its cotton cloth round the globe. Even we youthful voyagers

had spent a part of our lives in the village of Chelmsford, when the

present city, whose bells we heard, was its obscure north district

only, and the giant weaver was not yet fairly born. So old are we; so

young is it.

We were thus entering the State of New Hampshire on the bosom of the

flood formed by the tribute of its innumerable valleys. The river was

the only key which could unlock its maze, presenting its hills and

valleys, its lakes and streams, in their natural order and position.

The MERRIMACK, or Sturgeon River, is formed by the confluence of the

Pemigewasset, which rises near the Notch of the White Mountains, and

the Winnipiseogee, which drains the lake of the same name, signifying

“The Smile of the Great Spirit.” From their junction it runs south

seventy-eight miles to Massachusetts, and thence east thirty-five miles

to the sea. I have traced its stream from where it bubbles out of the

rocks of the White Mountains above the clouds, to where it is lost amid

the salt billows of the ocean on Plum Island beach. At first it comes

on murmuring to itself by the base of stately and retired mountains,

through moist primitive woods whose juices it receives, where the bear

still drinks it, and the cabins of settlers are far between, and there

are few to cross its stream; enjoying in solitude its cascades still

unknown to fame; by long ranges of mountains of Sandwich and of Squam,

slumbering like tumuli of Titans, with the peaks of Moosehillock, the

Haystack, and Kearsarge reflected in its waters; where the maple and

the raspberry, those lovers of the hills, flourish amid temperate

dews;—flowing long and full of meaning, but untranslatable as its name

Pemigewasset, by many a pastured Pelion and Ossa, where unnamed muses

haunt, tended by Oreads, Dryads, Naiads, and receiving the tribute of

many an untasted Hippocrene. There are earth, air, fire, and

water,—very well, this is water, and down it comes.

Such water do the gods distil,

And pour down every hill

For their New England men;

A draught of this wild nectar bring,

And I’ll not taste the spring

Of Helicon again.

Falling all the way, and yet not discouraged by the lowest fall. By the

law of its birth never to become stagnant, for it has come out of the

clouds, and down the sides of precipices worn in the flood, through

beaver-dams broke loose, not splitting but splicing and mending itself,

until it found a breathing-place in this low land. There is no danger

now that the sun will steal it back to heaven again before it reach the

sea, for it has a warrant even to recover its own dews into its bosom

again with interest at every eve.

It was already the water of Squam and Newfound Lake and Winnipiseogee,

and White Mountain snow dissolved, on which we were floating, and

Smith’s and Baker’s and Mad Rivers, and Nashua and Souhegan and

Piscataquoag, and Suncook and Soucook and Contoocook, mingled in

incalculable proportions, still fluid, yellowish, restless all, with an

ancient, ineradicable inclination to the sea.

So it flows on down by Lowell and Haverhill, at which last place it

first suffers a sea change, and a few masts betray the vicinity of the

ocean. Between the towns of Amesbury and Newbury it is a broad

commercial river, from a third to half a mile in width, no longer

skirted with yellow and crumbling banks, but backed by high green hills

and pastures, with frequent white beaches on which the fishermen draw

up their nets. I have passed down this portion of the river in a

steamboat, and it was a pleasant sight to watch from its deck the

fishermen dragging their seines on the distant shore, as in pictures of

a foreign strand. At intervals you may meet with a schooner laden with

lumber, standing up to Haverhill, or else lying at anchor or aground,

waiting for wind or tide; until, at last, you glide under the famous

Chain Bridge, and are landed at Newburyport. Thus she who at first was

“poore of waters, naked of renowne,” having received so many fair

tributaries, as was said of the Forth,

“Doth grow the greater still, the further downe;

Till that abounding both in power and fame,

She long doth strive to give the sea her name”;

or if not her name, in this case, at least the impulse of her stream.

From the steeples of Newburyport you may review this river stretching

far up into the country, with many a white sail glancing over it like

an inland sea, and behold, as one wrote who was born on its

head-waters, “Down out at its mouth, the dark inky main blending with

the blue above. Plum Island, its sand ridges scolloping along the

horizon like the sea-serpent, and the distant outline broken by many a

tall ship, leaning, _still_, against the sky.”

Rising at an equal height with the Connecticut, the Merrimack reaches

the sea by a course only half as long, and hence has no leisure to form

broad and fertile meadows, like the former, but is hurried along

rapids, and down numerous falls, without long delay. The banks are

generally steep and high, with a narrow interval reaching back to the

hills, which is only rarely or partially overflown at present, and is

much valued by the farmers. Between Chelmsford and Concord, in New

Hampshire, it varies from twenty to seventy-five rods in width. It is

probably wider than it was formerly, in many places, owing to the trees

having been cut down, and the consequent wasting away of its banks. The

influence of the Pawtucket Dam is felt as far up as Cromwell’s Falls,

and many think that the banks are being abraded and the river filled up

again by this cause. Like all our rivers, it is liable to freshets, and

the Pemigewasset has been known to rise twenty-five feet in a few

hours. It is navigable for vessels of burden about twenty miles; for

canal-boats, by means of locks, as far as Concord in New Hampshire,

about seventy-five miles from its mouth; and for smaller boats to

Plymouth, one hundred and thirteen miles. A small steamboat once plied

between Lowell and Nashua, before the railroad was built, and one now

runs from Newburyport to Haverhill.

Unfitted to some extent for the purposes of commerce by the sand-bar at

its mouth, see how this river was devoted from the first to the service

of manufactures. Issuing from the iron region of Franconia, and flowing

through still uncut forests, by inexhaustible ledges of granite, with

Squam, and Winnipiseogee, and Newfound, and Massabesic Lakes for its

mill-ponds, it falls over a succession of natural dams, where it has

been offering its _privileges_ in vain for ages, until at last the

Yankee race came to _improve_ them. Standing at its mouth, look up its

sparkling stream to its source,—a silver cascade which falls all the

way from the White Mountains to the sea,—and behold a city on each

successive plateau, a busy colony of human beaver around every fall.

Not to mention Newburyport and Haverhill, see Lawrence, and Lowell, and

Nashua, and Manchester, and Concord, gleaming one above the other. When

at length it has escaped from under the last of the factories, it has a

level and unmolested passage to the sea, a mere _waste water_, as it

were, bearing little with it but its fame; its pleasant course revealed

by the morning fog which hangs over it, and the sails of the few small

vessels which transact the commerce of Haverhill and Newburyport. But

its real vessels are railroad cars, and its true and main stream,

flowing by an iron channel farther south, may be traced by a long line

of vapor amid the hills, which no morning wind ever disperses, to where

it empties into the sea at Boston. This side is the louder murmur now.

Instead of the scream of a fish-hawk scaring the fishes, is heard the

whistle of the steam-engine, arousing a country to its progress.

This river too was at length discovered by the white man, “trending up

into the land,” he knew not how far, possibly an inlet to the South

Sea. Its valley, as far as the Winnipiseogee, was first surveyed in

1652. The first settlers of Massachusetts supposed that the

Connecticut, in one part of its course, ran northwest, “so near the

great lake as the Indians do pass their canoes into it over land.” From

which lake and the “hideous swamps” about it, as they supposed, came

all the beaver that was traded between Virginia and Canada,—and the

Potomac was thought to come out of or from very near it. Afterward the

Connecticut came so near the course of the Merrimack that, with a

little pains, they expected to divert the current of the trade into the

latter river, and its profits from their Dutch neighbors into their own

pockets.

Unlike the Concord, the Merrimack is not a dead but a living stream,

though it has less life within its waters and on its banks. It has a

swift current, and, in this part of its course, a clayey bottom, almost

no weeds, and comparatively few fishes. We looked down into its yellow

water with the more curiosity, who were accustomed to the Nile-like

blackness of the former river. Shad and alewives are taken here in

their season, but salmon, though at one time more numerous than shad,

are now more rare. Bass, also, are taken occasionally; but locks and

dams have proved more or less destructive to the fisheries. The shad

make their appearance early in May, at the same time with the blossoms

of the pyrus, one of the most conspicuous early flowers, which is for

this reason called the shad-blossom. An insect called the shad-fly also

appears at the same time, covering the houses and fences. We are told

that “their greatest run is when the apple-trees are in full blossom.

The old shad return in August; the young, three or four inches long, in

September. These are very fond of flies.” A rather picturesque and

luxurious mode of fishing was formerly practised on the Connecticut, at

Bellows Falls, where a large rock divides the stream. “On the steep

sides of the island rock,” says Belknap, “hang several arm-chairs,

fastened to ladders, and secured by a counterpoise, in which fishermen

sit to catch salmon and shad with dipping nets.” The remains of Indian

weirs, made of large stones, are still to be seen in the Winnipiseogee,

one of the head-waters of this river.

It cannot but affect our philosophy favorably to be reminded of these

shoals of migratory fishes, of salmon, shad, alewives, marsh-bankers,

and others, which penetrate up the innumerable rivers of our coast in

the spring, even to the interior lakes, their scales gleaming in the

sun; and again, of the fry which in still greater numbers wend their

way downward to the sea. “And is it not pretty sport,” wrote Captain

John Smith, who was on this coast as early as 1614, “to pull up

twopence, sixpence, and twelvepence, as fast as you can haul and veer a

line?”—“And what sport doth yield a more pleasing content, and less

hurt or charge, than angling with a hook, and crossing the sweet air

from isle to isle, over the silent streams of a calm sea.”

On the sandy shore, opposite the Glass-house village in Chelmsford, at

the Great Bend where we landed to rest us and gather a few wild plums,

we discovered the _Campanula rotundifolia_, a new flower to us, the

harebell of the poets, which is common to both hemispheres, growing

close to the water. Here, in the shady branches of an apple-tree on the

sand, we took our nooning, where there was not a zephyr to disturb the

repose of this glorious Sabbath day, and we reflected serenely on the

long past and successful labors of Latona.

“So silent is the cessile air,

That every cry and call,

The hills, and dales, and forest fair

Again repeats them all.

“The herds beneath some leafy trees,

Amidst the flowers they lie,

The stable ships upon the seas

Tend up their sails to dry.”

As we thus rested in the shade, or rowed leisurely along, we had

recourse, from time to time, to the Gazetteer, which was our Navigator,

and from its bald natural facts extracted the pleasure of poetry.

Beaver River comes in a little lower down, draining the meadows of

Pelham, Windham, and Londonderry. The Scotch-Irish settlers of the

latter town, according to this authority, were the first to introduce

the potato into New England, as well as the manufacture of linen cloth.

Everything that is printed and bound in a book contains some echo at

least of the best that is in literature. Indeed, the best books have a

use, like sticks and stones, which is above or beside their design, not

anticipated in the preface, nor concluded in the appendix. Even

Virgil’s poetry serves a very different use to me to-day from what it

did to his contemporaries. It has often an acquired and accidental

value merely, proving that man is still man in the world. It is

pleasant to meet with such still lines as,

“Jam læto turgent in palmite gemmæ”;

Now the buds swell on the joyful stem.

or

“Strata jacent passim sua quæque sub arbore poma”;

The apples lie scattered everywhere, each under its tree.

In an ancient and dead language, any recognition of living nature

attracts us. These are such sentences as were written while grass grew

and water ran. It is no small recommendation when a book will stand the

test of mere unobstructed sunshine and daylight.

What would we not give for some great poem to read now, which would be

in harmony with the scenery,—for if men read aright, methinks they

would never read anything but poems. No history nor philosophy can

supply their place.

The wisest definition of poetry the poet will instantly prove false by

setting aside its requisitions. We can, therefore, publish only our

advertisement of it.

There is no doubt that the loftiest written wisdom is either rhymed, or

in some way musically measured,—is, in form as well as substance,

poetry; and a volume which should contain the condensed wisdom of

mankind need not have one rhythmless line.

Yet poetry, though the last and finest result, is a natural fruit. As

naturally as the oak bears an acorn, and the vine a gourd, man bears a

poem, either spoken or done. It is the chief and most memorable

success, for history is but a prose narrative of poetic deeds. What

else have the Hindoos, the Persians, the Babylonians, the Egyptians

done, that can be told? It is the simplest relation of phenomena, and

describes the commonest sensations with more truth than science does,

and the latter at a distance slowly mimics its style and methods. The

poet sings how the blood flows in his veins. He performs his functions,

and is so well that he needs such stimulus to sing only as plants to

put forth leaves and blossoms. He would strive in vain to modulate the

remote and transient music which he sometimes hears, since his song is

a vital function like breathing, and an integral result like weight. It

is not the overflowing of life but its subsidence rather, and is drawn

from under the feet of the poet. It is enough if Homer but say the sun

sets. He is as serene as nature, and we can hardly detect the

enthusiasm of the bard. It is as if nature spoke. He presents to us the

simplest pictures of human life, so the child itself can understand

them, and the man must not think twice to appreciate his naturalness.

Each reader discovers for himself that, with respect to the simpler

features of nature, succeeding poets have done little else than copy

his similes. His more memorable passages are as naturally bright as

gleams of sunshine in misty weather. Nature furnishes him not only with

words, but with stereotyped lines and sentences from her mint.

“As from the clouds appears the full moon,

All shining, and then again it goes behind the shadowy clouds,

So Hector, at one time appeared among the foremost,

And at another in the rear, commanding; and all with brass

He shone, like to the lightning of ægis-bearing Zeus.”

He conveys the least information, even the hour of the day, with such

magnificence and vast expense of natural imagery, as if it were a

message from the gods.

“While it was dawn, and sacred day was advancing,

For that space the weapons of both flew fast, and the people fell;

But when now the woodcutter was preparing his morning meal,

In the recesses of the mountain, and had wearied his hands

With cutting lofty trees, and satiety came to his mind,

And the desire of sweet food took possession of his thoughts;

Then the Danaans, by their valor, broke the phalanxes,

Shouting to their companions from rank to rank.”

When the army of the Trojans passed the night under arms, keeping watch

lest the enemy should re-embark under cover of the dark,

“They, thinking great things, upon the neutral ground of war

Sat all the night; and many fires burned for them.

As when in the heavens the stars round the bright moon

Appear beautiful, and the air is without wind;

And all the heights, and the extreme summits,

And the wooded sides of the mountains appear; and from the heavens an

infinite ether is diffused,

And all the stars are seen, and the shepherd rejoices in his heart;

So between the ships and the streams of Xanthus

Appeared the fires of the Trojans before Ilium.

A thousand fires burned on the plain, and by each

Sat fifty, in the light of the blazing fire;

And horses eating white barley and corn,

Standing by the chariots, awaited fair-throned Aurora.”

The “white-armed goddess Juno,” sent by the Father of gods and men for

Iris and Apollo,

“Went down the Idæan mountains to far Olympus,

As when the mind of a man, who has come over much earth,

Sallies forth, and he reflects with rapid thoughts,

There was I, and there, and remembers many things;

So swiftly the august Juno hastening flew through the air,

And came to high Olympus.”

His scenery is always true, and not invented. He does not leap in

imagination from Asia to Greece, through mid air,

ἐπειὴ μάλα πολλὰ μεταξύ

Ὄυρεά τε σκιοέντα, θαλάσσα τε ἠχήεσσα.

for there are very many

Shady mountains and resounding seas between.

If his messengers repair but to the tent of Achilles, we do not wonder

how they got there, but accompany them step by step along the shore of

the resounding sea. Nestor’s account of the march of the Pylians

against the Epeians is extremely lifelike:—

“Then rose up to them sweet-worded Nestor, the shrill orator of the

Pylians,

And words sweeter than honey flowed from his tongue.”

This time, however, he addresses Patroclus alone: “A certain river,

Minyas by name, leaps seaward near to Arene, where we Pylians wait the

dawn, both horse and foot. Thence with all haste we sped us on the

morrow ere ’t was noonday, accoutred for the fight, even to Alpheus’s

sacred source,” &c. We fancy that we hear the subdued murmuring of the

Minyas discharging its waters into the main the livelong night, and the

hollow sound of the waves breaking on the shore,—until at length we are

cheered at the close of a toilsome march by the gurgling fountains of

Alpheus.

There are few books which are fit to be remembered in our wisest hours,

but the Iliad is brightest in the serenest days, and embodies still all

the sunlight that fell on Asia Minor. No modern joy or ecstasy of ours

can lower its height or dim its lustre, but there it lies in the east

of literature, as it were the earliest and latest production of the

mind. The ruins of Egypt oppress and stifle us with their dust,

foulness preserved in cassia and pitch, and swathed in linen; the death

of that which never lived. But the rays of Greek poetry struggle down

to us, and mingle with the sunbeams of the recent day. The statue of

Memnon is cast down, but the shaft of the Iliad still meets the sun in

his rising.

“Homer is gone; and where is Jove? and where

The rival cities seven? His song outlives

Time, tower, and god,—all that then was, save Heaven.”

So too, no doubt, Homer had his Homer, and Orpheus his Orpheus, in the

dim antiquity which preceded them. The mythological system of the

ancients, and it is still the mythology of the moderns, the poem of

mankind, interwoven so wonderfully with their astronomy, and matching

in grandeur and harmony the architecture of the heavens themselves,

seems to point to a time when a mightier genius inhabited the earth.

But, after all, man is the great poet, and not Homer nor Shakespeare;

and our language itself, and the common arts of life, are his work.

Poetry is so universally true and independent of experience, that it

does not need any particular biography to illustrate it, but we refer

it sooner or later to some Orpheus or Linus, and after ages to the

genius of humanity and the gods themselves.

It would be worth the while to select our reading, for books are the

society we keep; to read only the serenely true; never statistics, nor

fiction, nor news, nor reports, nor periodicals, but only great poems,

and when they failed, read them again, or perchance write more. Instead

of other sacrifice, we might offer up our perfect (τελεία) thoughts to

the gods daily, in hymns or psalms. For we should be at the helm at

least once a day. The whole of the day should not be daytime; there

should be one hour, if no more, which the day did not bring forth.

Scholars are wont to sell their birthright for a mess of learning. But

is it necessary to know what the speculator prints, or the thoughtless

study, or the idle read, the literature of the Russians and the

Chinese, or even French philosophy and much of German criticism. Read

the best books first, or you may not have a chance to read them at all.

“There are the worshippers with offerings, and the worshippers with

mortifications; and again the worshippers with enthusiastic devotion;

so there are those the wisdom of whose reading is their worship, men of

subdued passions and severe manners;—This world is not for him who doth

not worship; and where, O Arjoon, is there another?” Certainly, we do

not need to be soothed and entertained always like children. He who

resorts to the easy novel, because he is languid, does no better than

if he took a nap. The front aspect of great thoughts can only be

enjoyed by those who stand on the side whence they arrive. Books, not

which afford us a cowering enjoyment, but in which each thought is of

unusual daring; such as an idle man cannot read, and a timid one would

not be entertained by, which even make us dangerous to existing

institutions,—such call I good books.

All that are printed and bound are not books; they do not necessarily

belong to letters, but are oftener to be ranked with the other luxuries

and appendages of civilized life. Base wares are palmed off under a

thousand disguises. “The way to trade,” as a pedler once told me, “is

to _put it right through_,” no matter what it is, anything that is

agreed on.

“You grov’ling worldlings, you whose wisdom trades

Where light ne’er shot his golden ray.”

By dint of able writing and pen-craft, books are cunningly compiled,

and have their run and success even among the learned, as if they were

the result of a new man’s thinking, and their birth were attended with

some natural throes. But in a little while their covers fall off, for

no binding will avail, and it appears that they are not Books or Bibles

at all. There are new and patented inventions in this shape, purporting

to be for the elevation of the race, which many a pure scholar and

genius who has learned to read is for a moment deceived by, and finds

himself reading a horse-rake, or spinning-jenny, or wooden nutmeg, or

oak-leaf cigar, or steam-power press, or kitchen range, perchance, when

he was seeking serene and biblical truths.

“Merchants, arise,

And mingle conscience with your merchandise.”

Paper is cheap, and authors need not now erase one book before they

write another. Instead of cultivating the earth for wheat and potatoes,

they cultivate literature, and fill a place in the Republic of Letters.

Or they would fain write for fame merely, as others actually raise

crops of grain to be distilled into brandy. Books are for the most part

wilfully and hastily written, as parts of a system, to supply a want

real or imagined. Books of natural history aim commonly to be hasty

schedules, or inventories of God’s property, by some clerk. They do not

in the least teach the divine view of nature, but the popular view, or

rather the popular method of studying nature, and make haste to conduct

the persevering pupil only into that dilemma where the professors

always dwell.

“To Athens gowned he goes, and from that school

Returns unsped, a more instructed fool.”

They teach the elements really of ignorance, not of knowledge, for, to

speak deliberately and in view of the highest truths, it is not easy to

distinguish elementary knowledge. There is a chasm between knowledge

and ignorance which the arches of science can never span. A book should

contain pure discoveries, glimpses of _terra firma_, though by

shipwrecked mariners, and not the art of navigation by those who have

never been out of sight of land. _They_ must not yield wheat and

potatoes, but must themselves be the unconstrained and natural harvest

of their author’s lives.

“What I have learned is mine; I’ve had my thought,

And me the Muses noble truths have taught.”

We do not learn much from learned books, but from true, sincere, human

books, from frank and honest biographies. The life of a good man will

hardly improve us more than the life of a freebooter, for the

inevitable laws appear as plainly in the infringement as in the

observance, and our lives are sustained by a nearly equal expense of

virtue of some kind. The decaying tree, while yet it lives, demands

sun, wind, and rain no less than the green one. It secretes sap and

performs the functions of health. If we choose, we may study the

alburnum only. The gnarled stump has as tender a bud as the sapling.

At least let us have healthy books, a stout horse-rake or a kitchen

range which is not cracked. Let not the poet shed tears only for the

public weal. He should be as vigorous as a sugar-maple, with sap enough

to maintain his own verdure, beside what runs into the troughs, and not

like a vine, which being cut in the spring bears no fruit, but bleeds

to death in the endeavor to heal its wounds. The poet is he that hath

fat enough, like bears and marmots, to suck his claws all winter. He

hibernates in this world, and feeds on his own marrow. We love to think

in winter, as we walk over the snowy pastures, of those happy dreamers

that lie under the sod, of dormice and all that race of dormant

creatures, which have such a superfluity of life enveloped in thick

folds of fur, impervious to cold. Alas, the poet too is, in one sense,

a sort of dormouse gone into winter quarters of deep and serene

thoughts, insensible to surrounding circumstances; his words are the

relation of his oldest and finest memory, a wisdom drawn from the

remotest experience. Other men lead a starved existence, meanwhile,

like hawks, that would fain keep on the wing, and trust to pick up a

sparrow now and then.

There are already essays and poems, the growth of this land, which are

not in vain, all which, however, we could conveniently have stowed in

the till of our chest. If the gods permitted their own inspiration to

be breathed in vain, these might be overlooked in the crowd, but the

accents of truth are as sure to be heard at last on earth as in heaven.

They already seem ancient, and in some measure have lost the traces of

their modern birth. Here are they who

—“ask for that which is our whole life’s light,

For the perpetual, true and clear insight.”

I remember a few sentences which spring like the sward in its native

pasture, where its roots were never disturbed, and not as if spread

over a sandy embankment; answering to the poet’s prayer,

“Let us set so just

A rate on knowledge, that the world may trust

The poet’s sentence, and not still aver

Each art is to itself a flatterer.”

But, above all, in our native port, did we not frequent the peaceful

games of the Lyceum, from which a new era will be dated to New England,

as from the games of Greece. For if Herodotus carried his history to

Olympia to read, after the cestus and the race, have we not heard such

histories recited there, which since our countrymen have read, as made

Greece sometimes to be forgotten?—Philosophy, too, has there her grove

and portico, not wholly unfrequented in these days.

Lately the victor, whom all Pindars praised, has won another palm,

contending with

“Olympian bards who sung

Divine ideas below,

Which always find us young,

And always keep us so.”

What earth or sea, mountain or stream, or Muses’ spring or grove, is

safe from his all-searching ardent eye, who drives off Phœbus’ beaten

track, visits unwonted zones, makes the gelid Hyperboreans glow, and

the old polar serpent writhe, and many a Nile flow back and hide his

head!

That Phaeton of our day,

Who’d make another milky way,

And burn the world up with his ray;

By us an undisputed seer,—

Who’d drive his flaming car so near

Unto our shuddering mortal sphere,

Disgracing all our slender worth,

And scorching up the living earth,

To prove his heavenly birth.

The silver spokes, the golden tire,

Are glowing with unwonted fire,

And ever nigher roll and nigher;

The pins and axle melted are,

The silver radii fly afar,

Ah, he will spoil his Father’s car!

Who let him have the steeds he cannot steer?

Henceforth the sun will not shine for a year;

And we shall Ethiops all appear.

A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers · 第 10 / 51 题