CHAPTER XXI.

Walk to Guadalupe.--Our Embassador kneeling to the Host.--An

Embassador with, and one without Lace.--First sight of Santa

Anna.--Indian Dance in Church.--Juan Diego not Saint Thomas.--The

Miracle proved at Rome.--The Story of Juan Diego.--The holy Well of

Guadalupe.--The Temple of the Virgin.--Public Worship interdicted

by the Archbishop.--Refuses to revoke his Interdict.--He fled to

Guadalupe and took Sanctuary.--Refused to leave the Altar.--The

Arrest at the Altar.

"_Placuit pinturas in ecclesia esse non debere, ne quod colitur vel

adoratur, in parietibus pingatur_--Pictures ought not to be in the

churches, nor should any that are reverenced or adored be painted upon

the walls." So say the canons of the Council of Toledo.

I was one of a vast crowd that, on a Sunday of December, 1853, were

hurrying out of the city by the old gate and causeway of Tepeac to the

suburban village of Guadalupe Hidalgo, once Tepeac, but now consecrated

to the Virgin Mary, who, tradition says, appeared there in a bodily

form to an Indian _peon_. Juan Diego was the name of the Indian, and

1531 is the date assigned to the incident. I shall hereafter take

occasion to relate the story as given by the veracious Juan, and duly

attested by authority which ought to be competent to settle the

question, if any thing can do so. I hope that my readers will do their

best to believe it. If they honestly endeavor to do so, and do not

succeed, I trust they will not suffer on account of their lack of

faith.

The occasion that was drawing the multitude together was the

consecration of the bishop-elect of Michoican, which was to be

celebrated with great pomp at this most sacred shrine of the patron

goddess of the Republic. The State and the Church were duly represented

upon the platform by the President, the nuncio, and the archbishop.

Beneath the platform, and within the silver railing, were the official

representatives of foreign nations, who were easily distinguished by a

strip of gold or silver lace upon the collars and lapels of their

coats. To this uniformity of dress there was a single exception in the

person of the new American embassador, Mr. Gadsden, whose plain black

dress and clerical appearance would have conveyed the impression that

he was a Methodist preacher, had he not been engaged, with all the

awkwardness of a novice, upon his knees, in crossing himself.

This was the first occasion on which I had ever seen Santa Anna. If

looks have any weight determining a man's character, then truly he was

entitled to his position, for he was, by all odds, the most imposing in

appearance of any person in that assemblage, or any other I have yet

seen in Mexico. His part in the performance was that of godfather to

the bishop. Surrounded by kneeling aids-de-camp, he alone stood up, in

the rich uniform of a general of division, seeming the perfection of

military elegance and dignity. Each badge of prelatical rank, before it

was put upon the new bishop, was handed to Santa Anna, who kissed it,

and then returned it. He stood without apparent fatigue during the

whole of that long ceremony. I have often seen Santa Anna since that

time, but never have I seen him appear to such advantage as upon this

occasion.

THE BIBLE IN MEXICO.

On the next Sabbath I attended the Indian celebration of the appearance

of the most blessed Virgin. During the Christmas holidays in the

country of the Pintos, I had seen Indians dressed up in whimsical

attire, enacting plays, and singing and dancing; but this was the first

time that I had ever seen, in a house dedicated to the worship of God,

or, rather, in a temple consecrated to the adoration of the Virgin,

fantastic dances performed by Indians under the supervision of priests

and bishops. When I found out what the entertainment was, I was

heartily vexed that I should be at such a place on the Sabbath day. The

dancing and singing was bad enough, but the climax was reached when the

priest came down from the altar, with an array of attendants having

immense candles, to the side door, where the procession stopped to

witness the discharge, at mid-day, of a large amount of fire-works in

honor of the most blessed Virgin Mary.

I hurried home from this profanation of the Lord's day, and sat down

and contemplated the old Aztec god, who had been deified for his

wisdom, and could not but regret the change that had been imposed upon

these imbecile Indians. The next Sabbath after this was the national

anniversary of the miraculous apparition; but, having seen enough of

this sort of thing, I concluded that my Sabbaths would be better spent

in staying at home and reading a Spanish Testament, which had been

brought into the country in violation of the law. When I was first at

the city of Mexico, Governor Letcher related to me the stratagem by

which he contrived to smuggle an American Bible agent out of the

country when the police were after him, on an accusation of selling

prohibited books! for in such a country as this, the Word of God is a

prohibited book.

Juan Diego, upon whose veracity rests the story of the miraculous

appearance of the Virgin, was an Indian _peon_; and though, like the

rest of his race, he probably was an habitual liar, yet when he bears

testimony to a miracle he is presumed to speak the truth. He lived in a

mud hut somewhere about the barren hill now consecrated to the Virgin

of Guadalupe. The attempt to make out that it was Saint Thomas, or the

Wandering Jew who here had an interview with the Virgin Mary, and that

the old rag on which the picture is painted is really a part of the

cloak of Saint Thomas, is, by a very verbose proclamation of the

Archbishop of Mexico, dated 25th March, 1795, pronounced a damnable

heresy. I have in my possession a copy of this precious document,

bearing the signature of Don Alonzo Nunez de Haro y Peralto.

As I learn from the said proclamation that "the adoration of this holy

image" [picture] exists not only in Mexico, but in South America and

Spain, and that it has propagated itself in Italy, Flanders, Germany,

Austria, Bohemia, Poland, Ireland, and Transylvania, I shall be excused

for giving the substance of this miraculous apparition, since it is now

an article of belief of all good Catholics, having been proved before

the Congregation of Rites at Rome to have been a miraculous appearance

of the Mother of God upon earth, in the year and at the place

aforesaid. And the proclamation farther informs us that his holiness,

Benedict XIV., was so fully persuaded of the truth of the tradition,

that he made "cordial devotion to our Lady of Guadalupe, and conceded

the proper mass and ritual of devotion. He also made mention of it in

the lesson of the second _nocturnal_..., declaring from the high throne

of the Vatican that Mary, most holy, _non fecit taliter omni nationi_."

STORY OF JUAN DIEGO.

Juan Diego had a sick father, and, like a good and pious son, he

started for the medicine-man. He was stopped by the Virgin at the spot

where the round house on the extreme right of the picture is situated.

She reproached him with the slowness of the Indians in embracing the

new religion, and at the same time she announced to him the important

fact that she was to be the patron of the Indians, and also charged him

to go and report the same to Zumarraga, who then enjoyed the lucrative

office of Bishop of Mexico. Juan obeyed the heavenly messenger, but

found himself turned out of doors as a lying Indian. The second time he

went for the medicine-man he took another path, but was again stopped

on the way at the spot where the second round house now stands. She now

required him to go a second time to the bishop, and, in order to

convince him of the truth of the story, she directed the Indian to

climb to the top of the rock, where he would find a bunch of roses

growing out of the smooth porphyry. The Indian did as he was commanded,

and finding the roses in the place named, he gathered them in his

_tilma_, and carried them to the bishop. The spot is marked by a small

chapel. On opening his _tilma_ before the bishop and a company of

gentlemen assembled for that purpose, it was found that the roses had

imprinted themselves around a very coarse picture of the Virgin. This

is the story of the miraculous appearance of our Lady of Guadalupe.

[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE.]

The bishop was hard to convince at first, but when he considered that

the Indian could not himself paint, and had no money with which to pay

an artist, and, above all, as there was a fair chance of making money

by the transaction, he finally yielded to conviction. His example was

soon followed by the whole nation; and then the several buildings, one

after another, began to make their appearance. There was some

difficulty at first in identifying the place of the first appearance of

the Virgin, but this difficulty was removed by the Virgin herself, for

she again appeared and stamped her foot upon the spot, whereupon there

gushed forth a spring of mineral water.[39] This has proved an

infallible cure for all diseases of body and mind, and to it the

Indians resort to drink, and wash, and drink again, until it would seem

that they must soon exhaust the fountain, so great is the multitude

that resort to this spring of the Virgin.

The Collegiate Church--for there can not be two Cathedrals in one

diocese--is the principal building in the picture. It is not large, but

it surpasses any thing I have yet seen for its immense accumulation of

treasure, excepting always the Cathedral. A railing formed of plates of

pure silver incloses both the choir and the altar of the Virgin. These

are joined together by a passageway, which is inclosed by a portion of

the same precious railing. The golden candlesticks, the golden shields,

and other ornaments of gold, dazzle the eyes of the beholder, while the

three rows of jewels, one of pearls, one of emeralds, and one of

diamonds, encircling "the holy image," produce an impression not easily

erased. The contrast that is presented between these hoards of wealth

and the extreme poverty of the multitude that here congregate is most

striking.

The religion of Mexico is a religion of priestly miracles, and when the

ordinary rules of evidence are applied to them, they and the religion

that rests upon them fall together; hence the necessity of exacting at

the start a blind submission to authority, and an abnegation of the

reasoning faculties the moment the subject of religion is approached.

We have applied the ordinary rules of evidence to the romance of the

Conquest, and we find that it will not stand the test of an

examination. But if we doubt the history of the Conquest, we must doubt

the history of all the miracles of the Church, for all of them rest on

the like untenable grounds. I did not wonder at finding the country

abounding in unbelief. Now that the fires of the Inquisition have

ceased to burn, the priesthood are made the butt and laughing-stock of

those who are educated. Still, the national mind does not run toward

the pure Gospel, which is here unknown and prohibited, but to

infidelity and socialism. A sincere Protestant can have no sympathy

with either side.

AN INTERDICT.

The following is Thomas Gage's account of an affair that took place in

this temple in his time:

"Don Alonzo de Zerna, the archbishop, who had always opposed Don Pedro

Mexia and the Virey, to please the people, granted to them to

excommunicate Don Pedro, and so sent out bills of excommunication, to

be fixed upon all the church doors, against Don Pedro, who, not

regarding the excommunication, and keeping close at home, and still

selling his wheat at a higher price than before, the archbishop raised

his censure higher against him, by adding to it a bill of _cessatio a

divinis_, that is, a cessation of all divine service. This censure is

so great with them that it is never used except for some great man's

sake, who is contumacious and stubborn in his ways, contemning the

power of the Church. Then are all the church doors shut up, let the

city be never so great; no masses are said; no prayers are used; no

preaching permitted; no meetings allowed for any public devotion; no

calling upon God. The Church mourns, as it were, and makes no show of

spiritual joy and comfort, nor of any communion of prayers one with

another, so long as the party remains stubborn and rebellious in his

sin and scandal, and in not yielding to the Church's censure.

"And whereas, by this cessation _a divinis_, many churches, especially

cloisters, suffer in the means of their livelihood, who live upon what

is daily given for the masses they say, and in a cloister where thirty

or forty priests say mass, so many pieces of eight [dollars] do daily

come in, therefore this censure is inflicted upon the whole Church,

that the party offending or scandalizing, for whose sake this curse is

laid upon all, is bound to satisfy all priests and cloisters, which, in

the way aforesaid, suffer, and to allow them so much out of his means

as they might have daily got by selling away their masses for so many

dollars for their daily livelihood. To this would the archbishop have

brought Don Pedro, to have emptied out his purse, nearly a thousand

dollars daily, toward the maintenance of about a thousand priests, so

many there may be in Mexico, who from the altar sell away their bread

god [sacrament][40] to satisfy with bread and food their hungry

stomachs. And secondly, by the people suffering in their spiritual

comfort, and in their communion of prayers and worship, thought to make

Don Pedro odious to the people. Don Pedro, perceiving the spiteful

intent of the archbishop, and hearing the outcries of the people

against him, and their cries for the use of their churches, secretly

retired to the palace of the Virey, begging his favor and protection,

for whose sake he suffered.

"The viceroy immediately sent out his orders commanding the bills of

excommunication and _cessatio a divinis_ to be pulled down from the

church doors; and to all the superiors of the cloisters to set open

their churches, and to celebrate their services and masses as formerly

they had done. But they disobeyed the vice-king through blind obedience

to their archbishop. The viceroy commanded the arch-prelate to revoke

his censures; but his answer was, that what he had done had been justly

done against a public offender and great oppressor of the poor, whose

cries had moved him to commiserate their suffering condition, and that

the offender's contempt of his first excommunication had deserved the

rigor of the second censure, neither of which he would nor could revoke

until Don Pedro Mexia had submitted himself to the Church and to a

public absolution, and had satisfied the priests and the cloisters who

suffered for him, and had disclaimed that unlawful and unconscionable

monopoly wherewith he wronged the whole commonwealth, and especially

the poorer sort therein.

ARREST OF AN ARCHBISHOP.

"The viceroy, not brooking this saucy answer from a priest, commanded

him presently to be apprehended, and to be taken under guard to San

Juan de Ulua, and then to be shipped to Spain. The archbishop, having

notice of this resolution of the viceroy, retired to Guadalupe, with

many of his priests and prebends, leaving a bill of excommunication

against the viceroy himself upon the church doors, intending privately

to fly to Spain, there to give an account of his carriage and behavior.

But he could not escape the care and vigilance of the viceroy, who,

with his sergeant and officers, pursued him to Guadalupe, which the

archbishop understanding, he betook himself to the sanctuary of the

church, and there caused the candles to be lighted upon the altar, and

the sacrament of his bread god to be taken out of the tabernacle, and

attiring himself with his pontifical vestments, with his mitre on his

head, his crosier in one hand, in the other he took his god of bread,

and thus, with his train of priests about him at the altar, he waited

for the coming of the sergeant and officers, whom he thought, with his

god in his hand, and with a Here I am, to astonish and amaze, and to

make them, as did Christ the Jews in the garden, to fall backward, and

disable them from laying hands on him.

BANISHMENT OF THE ARCHBISHOP.

"The officers, coming into the church, went toward the altar where the

bishop stood, and, kneeling down first to worship their _god_, made

short prayers; which being ended, they propounded unto the bishop, with

courteous and fair words, the cause of their coming to that place,

requiring him to lay down the sacrament [the consecrated wafer], and to

come out of the church, and to hear the notification of what orders

they brought unto him in the king's name. To whom the archbishop

replied, that whereas their master the viceroy was excommunicated, he

looked upon him as one out of the pale of the Church, and one without

any power or authority to command him in the house of God, and so

required them, as they regarded the good of their souls, to depart

peaceably, and not to infringe the privileges and immunities of the

Church by exercising in it any legal act of secular power and command;

and that he would not go out of the church unless they durst take him

and the sacrament together. With this the head officer, named Tiroll,

stood up and notified unto him an order, in the king's name, to

apprehend his person in what place soever he should find him, and to

guard him to the port of San Juan de Ulua, and there to deliver him to

whom by farther order he should be directed thereto, to be shipped to

Spain as a traitor to the king's crown, a troubler of the common peace,

and an author and mover of sedition in the commonwealth.

"The archbishop, smiling to Tiroll, answered him, 'Thy master useth too

high terms and words, which do better agree unto himself, for I know no

mutiny or sedition like to trouble the commonwealth, unless it be by

his and Don Pedro Mexia his oppressing of the poor. And as for thy

guarding me to San Juan de Ulua, I conjure thee by Jesus Christ, whom

thou knowest I hold in my hands, not to use here any violence in God's

house, from whose altar I am resolved not to depart; take heed God

punish you not, as he did Jeroboam for stretching forth his hand at the

altar against the prophet; let his withered hand remind thee of thy

duty.' But Tiroll suffered him not to squander away the time and ravel

it out with farther preaching, but called to the altar a priest, whom

he had brought for the purpose, and commanded him, in the king's name,

to take the sacrament [wafer] out of the archbishop's hand; which the

priest doing, the archbishop, unvesting himself of his pontificals,

yielded himself unto Tiroll; and, taking his leave of all his prebends,

requiring them to be witnesses of what had been done, he went prisoner

to San Juan de Ulua, where he was delivered to the custody of the

governor of the castle, and, not many days after, was sent in a ship

prepared for that purpose to Spain, to the king in council, with a full

charge of all his carriages and misdemeanors."

[39] This water is impregnated with carbonic acid, sulphate of

lime, and soda.

[40] It is difficult to convey to Protestant readers the idea

which the Spaniards attach to the sacramental bread or wafer

after the priest has pronounced the words of consecration. They

call it both God and Jesus Christ, and claim for it divine

worship.

Mexico and Its Religion With Incidents of Travel in That Country During Parts of the Years 1851-52-53-54, and Historical Notices of Events Connected With Places Visited · 第 21 / 34 章